2015 IS IT TIME FOR WILDERNESS PROTECTION? JULY

ESCAPE • EXPLORE • EXPERIENCE

THE SERENGETI — JOHN MUIR JOHN — OF ARIZONA By JACK DYKINGA THE BLUE AMERICA’S LAST PRIMITIVE AREA “The the Universe clearest into way is through a forest wilderness.”

plus: HUBBELL TRADING POST • KACHINA TRAIL • CLARK TELESCOPE • YUMA’S SUN PHOTOGRAPHER TAD NICHOLS • WALNUT CANYON • LAVA CAVE LOOP • JUMPING SPIDERS CONTENTS 07.15 Grand Canyon National Park 2 EDITOR’S LETTER 3 CONTRIBUTORS 4 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR 56 WHERE IS THIS? > > > Flagstaff Hubbell Trading Post Williams Walnut Canyon Pinetop- 5 THE JOURNAL 46 THE STAR ATTRACTION Lakeside Blue Range People, places and things from around the state, including a look back It’s not the most powerful telescope in the world, but the Clark Primitive Area at iconic photographer Tad Nichols, Hubbell Trading Post and one of is one of the most impressive. Among other things, its history PHOENIX the coolest spiders in the animal kingdom. includes the discovery of Pluto and mapping the surface of the Yuma moon. Today, the newly restored refracting telescope is the Buenos Aires National 16 THE BLUE highlight of a field trip to Lowell Observatory, where visitors Wildlife Refuge The Blue Range Primitive Area is the last primitive area in America. All can look through the 120-year-old glass at Saturn, Jupiter and POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE the rest were given wilderness protection years ago. Is it time to do the other parts of outer space. same for the Blue? BY NOAH AUSTIN BY KELLY VAUGHN PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAWN KISH 26 THE GRASS IS ALWAYS GREENER ... 50 SKY MARSHAL Like April showers everywhere else in America, summer monsoons in Brian Klimowski patrols the skies. Not from an aircraft, but from Southern Arizona bring wildflowers, wildlife and lush, green grasses to the National Weather Service station 10 miles west of Flagstaff. the Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge. As our photographer likes to It’s his job to issue tornado warnings, anticipate lightning strikes say, the 117,464-acre sanctuary is the state’s version of the Serengeti. and help determine whether schools should have snow days. A PORTFOLIO BY JACK DYKINGA BY NIKKI BUCHANAN PHOTOGRAPH BY DEREK VON BRIESEN 38 FOR LAND’S SAKE 52 SCENIC DRIVE Walnut Canyon National Monument is one of Northern Arizona’s points Lava Cave Loop: Lava River Cave is the main attraction on this of pride, but the scenic, ecological and archaeological splendor of scenic drive, but the sights along the way are pretty nice, too. the canyon goes beyond the monument boundaries. What surrounds the gorge is equally impressive, which is why a coalition of Flagstaff 54 HIKE OF THE MONTH citizens is lobbying Congress to protect the land by designating it a Kachina Trail: Although Humphreys Peak gets most of the atten- national conservation area. tion in the San Francisco Peaks, the Kachina Trail offers a quiet BY ANNETTE MCGIVNEY alternative that’s every bit as beautiful.

◗ The setting sun silhouettes eroded sandstone hoodoos on the Navajo Nation in Northeastern Arizona. | JACK DYKINGA CAMERA: NIKON D3X; SHUTTER: 1/2 SEC; APERTURE: F/11; ISO: 100; FOCAL LENGTH: 85 MM FRONT COVER Sunrise lights the evergreens of the Blue Range Primitive Area near the Arizona-New Mexico border. | GEORGE H.H. HUEY CAMERA: PENTAX 6X7; www.facebook.com/azhighways SHUTTER: 1/2 SEC; APERTURE: F/22; GET MORE ONLINE @azhighways ISO: 50; FOCAL LENGTH: 45 MM www.arizonahighways.com @arizonahighways BACK COVER Prairie sunflowers (Helianthus petiolaris) bloom after a light rain. | CLAIRE CURRAN CAMERA: NIKON D800E; SHUTTER: 1/500 SEC; APERTURE: F/5.6; ISO: 200; FOCAL LENGTH: 28 MM

PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTS AVAILABLE Prints of some photographs in this issue are available for purchase. To view options, visit www.arizona highwaysprints.com. For more information, call 866-962-1191. www.arizonahighways.com 1 editor’s letter contributors

DEREK VON BRIESEN Derek von Briesen (pictured in red) met Brian Klimowski This Land Is Your Land (see Sky Marshal, page 50) about 10 years ago, when JULY 2015 VOL. 91, NO. 7 both were publishing photos on PBase, a photography- 800-543-5432 sharing website. “We ended up looking at each other’s saw a black bear in the Blue. I was hik- northwest, just south since the Buenos Aires www.arizonahighways.com ing the Steeple Trail, almost 25 years of Flagstaff, a coalition National Wildlife Ref- galleries and seeing we overlapped on a lot of stuff,” I ago, when I heard a deep, throaty sound of citizens is getting uge was established PUBLISHER Win Holden von Briesen says. He later learned that in addition to EDITOR Robert Stieve behind me. I stopped, turned around ... closer to their dream to protect an area of being a talented landscape photographer, Klimowski is and there it was, about 30 yards away, of protecting one of the grasslands and wet- ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, the meteorologist-in-charge of the National Weather DIRECTOR OF SALES & MARKETING Kelly Mero right in the middle of the trail. She was most beautiful canyons lands, and a gorgeous Service forecast office near Flagstaff. The two became JEFF KIDA MANAGING EDITOR Kelly Vaughn staring at me — I think it was a female — in the Southwest. sycamore-shaded can- friends and began going on shoots together, and von Briesen’s photo of Klimowski accom- ASSOCIATE EDITOR Noah Austin and grunting. Her behavior wasn’t aggres- As Annette yon. Jack Dykinga calls panies our profile of the weather forecaster. “In the times we’ve spent together, Brian has EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATOR Nikki Kimbel sive. It was just harmless bluster from McGivney writes in the refuge our state’s schooled me a lot on reading forecasts in preparation for a shoot,” von Briesen says. “It’s been PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Jeff Kida a nervous bear. I never felt threatened. For Land’s Sake: “Wal- version of the Seren- key to me becoming as successful as I have.” Von Briesen’s photos have also appeared in CREATIVE DIRECTOR Barbara Glynn Denney Instead, I was staring back. Captivated. nut Canyon meanders geti. In The Grass Is Outdoor Photographer magazine and National Geographic books. I’ve seen a lot of bears over the years, but through wild country Always Greener ..., you’ll ART DIRECTOR Keith Whitney that was my first encounter in Arizona. It that harbors sparse see why. It’s a beautiful DESIGN PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Diana Benzel-Rice was thrilling. And also unexpected. roads and rare stands portfolio that shows MAP DESIGNER Kevin Kibsey JACK DYKINGA PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Bianchi With hindsight, I shouldn’t have been of old-growth ponder- MARKOW PAUL the effect of summer Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge is familiar surprised to see her. The Blue Range Prim- osa pines, as well as a rich riparian area monsoons on Southern Arizona. As our WEBMASTER Victoria J. Snow territory for longtime Arizona Highways con- itive Area is bear country, a land of rug- filled with the canyon’s namesake Ari- photographer says, when the rains come, CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Nicole Bowman tributor Jack Dykinga, which made him an ideal ged mountains, steep canyons and stark zona walnut trees. Pronghorns roam the “the Buenos Aires explodes with color.” FINANCE DIRECTOR Bob Allen choice for this month’s portfolio (see The Grass Is ridges. It’s also been described as “a cha- open, grassy plateaus. And tucked away In addition to the landscape, the ref- OPERATIONS/IT MANAGER Cindy Bormanis Always Greener ..., page 26). “The Buenos Aires is otic mass of very precipitous hills.” Or, as in Walnut’s 400-foot-tall cliffs are dozens uge was created for the reintroduction a vast grassland, and its richness of wildlife amid Kelly Vaughn so beautifully writes in The of ancient archaeological sites.” of masked bobwhite quails, which had CORPORATE OR TRADE SALES 602-712-2019 oceans of grasses is reminiscent of the Seren- Blue, “the state’s most unsullied landscape The most important cliff dwellings are been extirpated from the United States. SPONSORSHIP SALES geti in Kenya,” Dykinga says. “The problem for a

REPRESENTATION On Media Publications ROBLESPATRICIO GIL — Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s forest protected in the 3,580-acre Walnut Can- Pronghorns have been reintroduced, too. Lesley Bennett photographer is to create high-quality images of a primeval made real by murmuring pines yon National Monument, “but the scenic, There’s a lot of wildlife in the refuge. 602-445-7160 subject constantly blowing in the wind.” Dykinga completed the assignment before undergo- so dense that, once in them, you find your- ecological and archaeological resources of Some of the more common species are ing a double lung transplant in Phoenix last year, but he says he felt compelled to return to self swallowed by their long shadows.” the canyon extend well beyond the park mule deer, Coues white-tailed deer, foxes, LETTERS TO THE EDITOR [email protected] Buenos Aires to photograph the grasses at their peak. “I was able to create several images 2039 W. Lewis Avenue during my first outing after surgery,” he says, “and many of them reflect my joy from returning Although it’s remote, and seemingly boundaries.” That’s why Ralph Baierlein, bobcats, javelinas, four types of skunks, Phoenix, AZ 85009 untouchable, the Blue is uniquely vulner- a retired Harvard physics professor, is ringtails, coatimundis and mountain to photograph what I love.” Dykinga is currently working on a sequel to his successful 2013 book, Capture the Magic, along with a retrospective of his career as a Pulitzer Prize-winning able. In 1933, it was one of 63 areas in the spearheading a grassroots movement to lions. On extremely rare occasions, even GOVERNOR Douglas A. Ducey United States to be protected as “primi- protect the entire canyon. “This is Flag- jaguars have been spotted in the rugged photojournalist and world-renowned landscape photographer. DIRECTOR, DEPARTMENT tive.” That was the ultimate protection staff’s canyon,” he says. “It is a unique and west end of the refuge. OF TRANSPORTATION John S. Halikowski

at the time. Three decades later, in 1964, special place that is a recreation resource Although I’ve never been lucky enough ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION the Wilderness Act took those safeguards for the whole city.” to see a jaguar in the wild, I have seen a BOARD CHAIRMAN Kelly O. Anderson TOM BEAN to an even higher level. Eventually, all The coalition’s original goal was to lot of bears, including a black bear in the VICE CHAIRMAN Joseph E. La Rue Walnut Canyon occupies a special place in Tom Bean’s heart. He’s lived, hiked and pho- but one of the primitive areas in America establish a national park, but the study Blue. I was staring at her. She was staring MEMBERS William Cuthbertson tographed in the canyon’s watershed for two decades, and he and his wife, Susan Lamb, were elevated to wilderness status. The area didn’t meet the necessary guidelines. at me. And somewhere, I Deanna Beaver published Flagstaff’s Little Canyons, a book about the Walnut Canyon study area. The push to only one left out was the Blue. It did, however, pass the test for a national think, Aldo Leopold was Jack W. Sellers create a national conservation area for In her story, Kelly recounts the conservation area, which is defined as smiling. Michael S. Hammond Walnut Canyon is the focus of For Land’s bureaucratic history of the area. More offering “exceptional scientific, cultural, Sake (see page 38), a story that was importantly, she looks to the future of ecological, historical and recreation val- COMING IN AUGUST ... Arizona Highways® (ISSN 0004-1521) is published monthly by illustrated with Bean’s photos. “The big- the Arizona Department of Transportation. Subscription price: gest long-term threat to the wild charac- the Blue. Specifically, she examines the ues.” At press time, the coalition was Next month, we apply $24 a year in the U.S., $44 outside the U.S. Single copy: $4.99 U.S. environmental threats to a place where reaching out to members of Arizona’s con- our “Best of Arizona” Call 800-543-5432. Subscription cor­respon­dence and change ter of this area comes from pressure on of address information: Arizona Highways, P.O. Box 8521, Big the U.S. Forest Service to someday turn Aldo Leopold began formulating his “land gressional delegation to see if any of them label to the landscapes Sandy, TX 75755-8521. Periodical postage paid at Phoenix, AZ, ethic.” It was a philosophy that called for would sponsor a bill. If somebody does, of every county in the and at additional mailing office. CANADA POST INTERNATIONAL this public land over to private hands for a new relationship between people and and if the bill passes, Walnut Canyon will state. In addition, we’ll PUBLICATIONS MAIL PRODUCT (CANADIAN­ DISTRIBUTION) development,” Bean says. “That would SALES AGREEMENT NO. 41220511. SEND RETURNS TO QUAD/ nature — an “ecological conscience” join San Pedro Riparian, Gila Box Riparian tell you about Mexican GRAPHICS, P.O. BOX 875, WINDSOR, ON N9A 6P2. POST­MASTER: erode the special qualities of this area JACK DYKINGA JACK — and set the stage for the modern and Las Cienegas as the only national con- wolves on White Moun- Send address changes to Arizona Highways, P.O. Box 8521, Big that give living in Flagstaff its unique Sandy, TX 75755-8521. Copy­right © 2015 by the Ari­zona Depart- conservation movement. If you want to servation areas in Arizona. tain Apache land and show you what a ment of Trans­­por­­tation. Repro­duc­tion in whole or in part with­­out character.” Bean is a frequent contributor know how special the Blue is, think about Like the Blue, time will tell. Mean- California condor looks like up close. permission is prohibited. The magazine does not accept and is not to Arizona Highways, and much of his responsible for unsolicited­ mater­ ials.­ how it inspired Mr. Leopold. Time will while, not far from Las Cienegas, there’s recent work has involved documenting tell if it ever gets wilderness protection. another special place that’s already gotten ROBERT STIEVE, EDITOR local conservation efforts, such as those PRODUCED IN THE USA It probably won’t, but 200 miles to the its protection. In fact, it’s been 30 years Follow me on Twitter: @azhighways in Walnut Canyon. — NOAH AUSTIN

2 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 3 letters to the editor [email protected] THE JOURNAL 07.15

national parks centennial > history > photography he back cover of your Route 66 issue [May 2015] triggered iconic photographers > dining > nature > lodging > things to do memories. My wife and I were married in 1952 near Route 66 in San Bernardino, California. I was a G.I., and we took a two- Tweek honeymoon trip via Route 66 to my duty station in Texas. When we got to Holbrook, my new bride saw the teepees and wanted to stay there. Our motel budget was $5 per night, and the tee- pees were $6, so I vetoed the idea. I have been reminded for 63 years that for one more dollar ... Jim Kindseth, Tucson

May 2015

’ve subscribed to Arizona Highways since come into being. You outdid yourselves etc., and all of us spent many hours rid- I the late 1970s. Your May 2015 issue is this time. Congratulations; it’s a “keeper.” ing out in the woods and enjoying the a great example of your ability to write Pete Berquist, Shoreline, Washington wildlife. Mary Jane Colter, who was an new and interesting articles, in addition architect for the Fred Harvey Co., spent to your invariably great photography. The our decision to publish the article a great deal of time in our home because articles on the Vatican’s Mount Graham Yabout Rachel Tso [Rachel Tso: On our mom, who was an excellent seam- telescope, the prehistoric cave at Lake Location, May 2015] was correct. She is stress, made and altered many articles of Mead and the accomplishments of Rachel a wonderful lady doing inspirational clothing for her, as well as made drapes Tso were all fascinating. I’ve hiked and things with the kids, making a profound for the “new” Bright Angel Lodge when viewed most of Arizona many times, and difference in their lives. Years from now it was completed. At my age, it seems, I’m headed to the Mogollon Rim later this they will remember her with apprecia- memories are all I have, but the time we month (reckon I’m addicted). Forest Road tion and fondness. The sudden loss of spent in Williams and on Route 66 will 300 is one I plan to travel for the first her young son is heart-wrenching beyond remain with me forever. time. Thanks for the outstanding work! description. Our hearts have broken Ethel Moore Cole, Cottonwood, Arizona Rick Cohen, Ransom Canyon, Texas with hers; tears have fallen. In these darkest hours, awake at night aching CORRECTION have been reading Arizona Highways for and exhausted, I hope she will feel the On our February Isome 40 years, and I’ve always enjoyed support of the Arizona Highways family 1944 cover, we inad- the photography. However, it usually like an old feather bed — warm, encom- vertently flipped an focuses on the large and grand (as you passing, quietly safe and restful, with image of Betatakin note in the headline), so to see the photo- peaceful voices reminding her to sleep Ruin. Unfortunately, graphic essay titled It’s in the Details [Janu- and relax, and find strength to endure that happened at ary 2015] by Eirini Pajak was very dif- another day. With heartfelt condolences times in the days ferent. I loved it, and keep looking at it, to her whole family. of negatives and seeing more details each time. I do hope Rebecca Burghy, Everett, Washington transparencies. We you will consider doing more of this, and apologize for any my thanks to Eirini for composing some our Route 66 issue [May 2015] inconvenience. Oh, by the way, if you’re beautiful photos of the “small stuff.” Ybrought back many memories to me wondering why we’re making this cor- Sonde Devries, Walnut Creek, California and my family. I was born in Williams rection 71 years later, it’s because we in 1924 and was raised at the Grand Can- weren’t aware of the mistake until an ow! Your 90th anniversary issue yon. Route 66 was traveled by us when it observant reader noticed it in our April W [April 2015] blew my socks off. was only a two-lane highway, and some 2015 issue, which featured a look back at Muddy Waters What a masterpiece. I read every article, of it was not in the best shape, especially the first 90 years of Arizona Highways. examined every picture. I’m a longtime between Flagstaff and Williams. In 1958 The water of the Little Colorado River tumbles over Grand Falls, located northeast of Winona on the Navajo Nation. admirer of your magazine. As a kid, back we moved from California to Williams, contact us If you have thoughts or com- in the 1940s, I used to enjoy my grand- where I lived for the next 42 years. Our ments about anything in Arizona Highways, we’d Nicknamed “Chocolate Falls” for the muddy river water, the mother’s subscription, and wished that four sons were raised there and loved love to hear from you. We can be reached at editor@ falls are fed by spring snowmelt and summer monsoon arizonahighways.com, or by mail at 2039 W. Lewis storms. | SHANE MCDERMOTT someday I could visit Arizona. I’m now the small town and the freedom they Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85009. For more information, a subscriber and frequent visitor. All has enjoyed. They learned to hunt, fish, hike, visit www.arizonahighways.com. For more information, contact the Leupp Chapter House at 928-686-3227 or visit www.navajonationparks.org. 4 JULY 2015 CAMERA: NIKON D3S; SHUTTER: 1 SEC; APERTURE: F/8; ISO: 200; FOCAL LENGTH: 90 MM www.arizonahighways.com 5 national parks centennial � �

EDITOR’S NOTE: In August 2016, the National Park Service will celebrate its 100th anniversary. Leading up to that milestone, we’ll be spotlighting some of Arizona’s wonderful national parks. ARIZONA STATE LIBRARY AND ARCHIVES AND LIBRARY STATE ARIZONA Hubbell Trading Post, shown in the 1890s, provided a key link between settlers and Navajos. HUBBELL THE JOURNAL TRADING POST NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE

ubbell Trading Post is a hub of culture, commerce and community, as it has been since the late 1800s. As the Navajo Nation’s oldest continuously operating trading post, it was designated a national historic site in 1965, two H years before the National Park Service took ownership of it. The trading post was first owned by John L. Hubbell, a master of trade among the Navajos. Hub- bell was known for his fairness and his commitment to promoting quality crafts- manship. Located in Ganado, a municipality of about 1,200 people in Northeastern Arizona, Hubbell Trading Post is constructed mostly of native sandstone and mortar. The Park Service works hard to preserve its authenticity in every way possible, down to its ambience. Visitors can purchase handcrafted Navajo rugs, baskets and jewelry, and even watch a rug being woven in the visitors center. Ranger-guided tours of the historic Hubbell homestead and surrounding grounds are available for those who want to learn more. — KAYLA FROST

YEAR DESIGNATED: 1965 AREA: 160 acres WILDERNESS ACREAGE: None

GEORGE H.H. HUEY ANNUAL VISITATION: 81,475 (2014) AVERAGE ELEVATION: 6,332 feet The parlor of the family homestead at Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site looks much as it did when John L. Hubbell lived there. www.nps.gov/hutr

6 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 7 history photography � � � �

Yuma’s Sunshine The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration ranks Yuma as the sunniest place in the country. It’s a distinction that early business leaders used to their advantage.

here was a time when “the whole ranks Yuma as the sunniest place in the and has typically been in our pitch to get country laughed at the joke about United States. people to come to Yuma. That hotel and the Yuma soldier who died and The city’s early business leaders took sign were within view of the train station. T went to the regions of Belzebub that sunshine to the bank. The promo- It was an advertisement for Yuma.” [sic] and sent back home for his blankets,” tional campaign attracted media coverage During Arizona’s Centennial, Yuma’s an El Paso Herald reporter wrote in 1920. from as far away as New York. visitors bureau resurrected the campaign “Yuma is cashing in on its climate … which “The founding fathers of Yuma were for a full year, offering guests at participat- proves that even a joke may be useful and enterprising men,” says Laurie Boone, ing hotels a free dinner any day the sun that if you keep at it long enough, you can special-collections librarian for the Yuma didn’t shine. The result? “We did not give win.” County Library District. “[Climate], of away a single taco,” says the bureau’s Ann The reference was to Yuma’s “Free course, is one of the [five] C’s in Arizona Walker. — KATHY MONTGOMERY Board” promotion. Frank Ming, owner of the Pilot Knob Hotel and Yuma’s mayor in the 1920s, first came up with the bright idea of offering free meals, or board, on cloudy days. Other businesses, including the Southern Pacific Hotel and a gas sta- tion that offered “free gasoline every day the sun doesn’t shine,” jumped in. No one knows exactly when the pro- motion started — likely the early 1900s, based on the photo at right — but it ran Riders lasso a calf during a team-roping event at a Williams rodeo. | BEV PETTIT for decades. A Los Angeles Times article THE JOURNAL made reference to it in 1939. Not Her First Rodeo Yuma’s legendary sunshine has been documented by everyone from Guinness Photo Editor Jeff Kida discusses the art of shooting a rodeo World Records to the National Oceanic with Western photographer Bev Pettit. and Atmospheric Administration, which JK: Your specialty is horses, rodeos ... Why and started making pictures of people in these shutter speed to blur the background. I like to does the West appeal to you? little villages we visited. When we came back do the same thing when I photograph a running Yuma’s Pilot Knob Hotel, shown in the 1900s, famously offered free BP: It goes way back. I grew up in a small farming to Arizona, I translated that to what I love horse, so I can blur its legs and focus on its eyes.

meals on rare cloudy days. ARCHIVES AND LIBRARY STATE ARIZONA community in Minnesota, and we always had best, which is the West. I know a lot of people horses and other farm animals around. My aunt who own ranches, and cowboys who work on JK: What made you decide on black and lived in Tucson, and we went down to see her ranches, so I’ve got access to them and can go white for this photo? every winter. That was when I fell in love with on cattle drives and things like that with them. BP: It just seemed conducive to a rainy and ARIZONA HIGHWAYS ■ Southern Arizona’s Harbor Airport, which ■ The city of Globe Arizona. I had a romantic sort of thing in my mind muddy day like this. It illustrates that grittiness this Coronado National has one runway. The floods on July 24, Isolation from the about the Wild West and wild horses. I knew I’d be JK: The photo above is of a team-roping and makes it feel more timeless. I do use color, Memorial is estab- airport is so isolated 1896, destroying 50 Years Ago day-to-day buzz of living in Arizona one day. I moved here and worked event at a rodeo in Williams. I’ve always but sometimes color gets in the way for me. I’m month lished on July 9, 1952. that it garners the homes and the local humanity was the in Phoenix for the Arizona Department of Trans- found those events difficult to photograph, really selective about which photos get color ■ Bisbee officials and nickname “The Farm.” Silver King Saloon theme of Arizona portation. That was where I met my husband, and because the three parties — the header, the and which don’t. in history citizens round up and ■ Lightning strikes a and causing mine Highways’ July 1965 we’ve been married for 20 years now. We spent heeler and the calf — are often so spread out. deport almost 1,200 National Guard com- tunnels in the area to issue, which featured some time living overseas, but I was really anxious BP: I got really lucky on this shot. The header strikers from the pany tent in Naco cave in. the intimate and to get back to Arizona. I always liked the Prescott has his rope around the calf’s horns, and the Industrial Workers of on July 20, 1917. The ■ Governor Thomas the World on July 12, lightning splinters a Campbell, in hopes remote Cibecue Creek area, so we bought some ranchland there and I heeler has his rope in the air. I was sitting on 1917. rifle stock and melts of saving taxpayers and its relationship got back to my roots with horses. the fence rail, which is why I had that angle of ■ On July 17, 1935, the cartridges in a $90,000, cancels the to the struggling but looking down on the riders. I was lucky to get ADDITIONAL READING the city of Phoenix cartridge belt, solder- Arizona State Fair on surviving culture of JK: What led you to pursue photography? the header in focus. At rodeos, the backgrounds Look for our book Arizona Highways purchases Sky ing them together. July 30, 1921. Photography Guide, available at the Cibecue Apaches. BP: My degree is in fine arts, but when we were are usually cluttered with trailers and other bookstores and www.shoparizona overseas, in Taiwan, I just picked up a camera equipment, so I decided to pan and use a slower highways.com/books.

8 JULY 2015 To learn more about photography, visit www.arizonahighways.com/photography. www.arizonahighways.com 9 iconic photographers � � THE JOURNAL NORTHERN ARIZONA UNIVERSITY CLINE LIBRARY TAD NICHOLS

hio born and Massachusetts bred, Ari- phy class. That was the start of his successful career. zona Highways photographer Tad Nich- Over the years, Nichols photographed and filmed ols was a happy Arizona transplant: “My for the Air Force (during World War II), National Geo- O whole life changed coming to Arizona,” graphic, Walt Disney Productions and the Sierra Club. he said. Nichols attended Mesa Ranch School and He was also the official photographer for several sci- graduated from the University of Arizona in 1937 entific expeditions. Arguably, Nichols’ favorite place with degrees in geology and archaeology. He was so to photograph was Glen Canyon. He curated the best unimpressed with the illustrations in his geology text- images of the now-flooded canyon from the 4,000 books that he set out to make quality photographs he’d made and published them in a book in 2000, for them with skills he’d learned in a single photogra- shortly before he died at age 89. — KAYLA FROST

ABOVE: Tad Nichols, shown in 1955, earned degrees in geology and archaeology but became a successful photographer instead. TAD NICHOLS TAD RIGHT: Nichols made some 30 trips into Glen Canyon between 1950 and 1963, photographing scenes like this one before Lake Powell flooded the area.

10 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 11 dining nature � � � � Los Corrales Fresh octopus isn’t a common menu item in the White Mountains, but at Los Corrales, one of the most popular restaurants in Pinetop-Lakeside, it’s just one of many surprises.

LOS CORRALES FAMILY MEXICAN RESTAURANT tostadas or the breaded and butterflied options as colorful as the décor. There’s the doesn’t look like much on the outside fried shrimp. If you’re feeling more adven- Green Iguana, with Herradura reposado Their fangs are — an online reviewer compared it to a turous, there’s the campechana, a bowl tequila, melon liqueur and Grand Mar- used to inject repurposed fast-food joint. But don’t let of fresh octopus, scallops and shrimp; the nier; the Purple Margarita, with Don venom into their appearances fool mojarra rellena, a whole tilapia stuffed Julio reposado tequila, Chambord black- prey. pinetop-lakeside you: It’s one of with octopus, shrimp and abalone; or the raspberry liqueur, and lime and cranberry the most popular seafood chimis, packed with shrimp, scal- juices; and the Red and White Margarita, restaurants in Pinetop-Lakeside. Come lops, octopus, crab and mushrooms. with Jose Cuervo silver tequila, and piña early or prepare to wait. And whatever For die-hard carnivores, there’s carne colada and strawberry mix. Feeling blue? you do, take an appetite. asada, steak ranchero or New York steak, Try the Blue Moon: Don Julio blanco In contrast with the restaurant’s served with your choice of enchilada, tequila, blue curaçao, Grand Marnier and • Jumping spiders drab, forest-green exterior, the interior taco or relleno. But dining options are triple sec. For beer lovers, there’s the Best can leap about vibrates with south-of-the-border colors: anything but black and white. Have it Ever Beergarita: Cazadores blanco tequila, 30 times their lime green, lemon yellow and Caribbean both ways with the carne tampiqueña Grand Marnier, Herradura agave nectar own length. They use their back blue, with vibrant parrots, smiling suns (New York steak filled with shrimp and and fresh lime, served with a 7-ounce legs to and colorful landscapes adorning tables, wrapped with bacon) or the steak picado bottle of Corona inverted in the center. launch chairs and banquettes. and shrimp (chunks of New York steak Order them grande, and you may need themselves But regulars come for the food, served and vegetables). Both are served with rice, to call a cab, but you won’t have to pony into the air. in generous portions on heaping plat- beans and tortillas. up a lot for your meal. You’ll leave cheer- ters. Of course, you’ll find all the usual Too much to choose from? Take your ing, “Viva Los Corrales!” suspects: chile verde, chile colorado, pork time. Prompt, efficient servers keep the — KATHY MONTGOMERY carnitas, fajitas and an assortment of chips coming, along with salsa you could enchiladas, tacos and chimichangas. eat with a spoon. Once you’ve decided THE JOURNAL

Los Corrales is located at 845 E. White Mountain BRUCE D. TAUBERT More unexpected is the variety of sea- what to eat, wrangle yourself a margarita. Boulevard in Pinetop-Lakeside. For more information, food. Try the grilled snapper, the ceviche The menu offers a full page of margarita call 928-367-5585. Emerald Jumping nature factoid Spiders

merald jumping spiders spective, these spiders can also turn SAN FRANCISCO (Paraphidippus aurantius) are the fronts of their bodies more than PEAKS flashy, and they flaunt it — 45 degrees to look around. GROUNDSEL the iridescent scales on their Commonly called the tigers of San Francisco Peaks E groundsel is found bodies make them especially shiny, the spider world, jumping spiders which shows as they forage on low stalk their prey like cats, launching only in the alpine regions of the San shrubs in sunny areas. Also known as themselves onto other insects from Francisco Peaks. It’s golden jumping spiders, the arach- a distance and grasping them in their unique to Arizona nids are less than a half-inch long jaws. When the spiders jump, they and flourishes in and can be found throughout the anchor themselves with a strand exposed and sunny United States and Central America. of silk, which they can use to keep areas. Also known as In general, they’re small and hairy, themselves from falling and climb San Francisco Peaks ragwort, the flower is with better vision than other spiders. back to their original spot if they miss part of the sunflower It’s evident in their eyes — four big their prey. family. It shares the eyes on their flat faces and four When not hunting, the spiders vibrant yellow color, smaller eyes on the tops of their construct tent-like homes in crevices but unlike common heads, giving them a 360-degree where they sleep at night and hiber- sunflowers, the view. Like mammals, jumping spiders nate in the winter. Most of the 5,000 groundsel’s petals are loose and widely have singular eyes, which they can species of jumping spiders live in spaced. move to look around and change tropical areas, but about 300 live in — MOLLY BILKER TOM BEAN PAUL MARKOW PAUL focus. As a benefit to their global per- the United States. — MOLLY BILKER

12 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 13 212236A01

lodging � � JOHN BURCHAM JOHN

Santa Fe Railway, Williams boasted a Har- Depot Café reflects a bygone era, with old Grand Canyon vey House with a formal dining room, café, photos and upscale buffet offerings based newsroom and “Indian building” gift shop. on dishes once served at railway stations. Railway Hotel Today, Grand Canyon Railway passengers Spenser’s pub, built around a storied 19th THE JOURNAL NOTHING CONJURES THE PAST like a train, seek shelter inside the former hotel’s lobby. century bar, feels clubby and dark — just with echoes of steam engines, Pullman The Indian building still sells souvenirs. A the ticket for a trip back through time. cars and Harvey girls in larger, modern hotel blends elements of — KATHY MONTGOMERY williams crisp uniforms. However the original with contemporary tastes: fur- distant, those memories niture resembling steamer trunks, Keurig Grand Canyon Railway Hotel is located at 235 N. Grand linger at Grand Canyon Railway Hotel. coffeemakers and two dining options. Canyon Boulevard in Williams. For more information, Once a stop on the Atchison, Topeka and Gleaming with brushed metal, Grand call 800-843-8724 or visit www.thetrain.com.

things to do in arizona � � Art in the Park approximately a half-hour after Valley’s connection to sweet and raffles.Information: 602-881- July 3-5, Flagstaff sunset. Information: 928-453- corn features family events, live 2722 or www.arca-az.org This Wheeler Park festival fea- 3444 or www.golakehavasu.com music and great food. The town tures juried, one-of-a-kind fine is also marking its 150th birthday Photo Workshop: arts and crafts, along with food Summer Spectacular ArtWalk by offering free admission to Fort Slot Canyons vendors, live entertainment, July 9, Scottsdale Verde State Historic Park. September 24-28, Page kids activities and a petting zoo. Explore the Scottsdale Arts Information: 928-301-9222 or Explore the Colorado Plateau’s Information: www.flagstaffart District at this annual event, www.campverdepromotions.org intriguing, photogenic sand- inthepark.com where galleries will offer artist stone canyons with Navajo pho- demonstrations and special Ham Radio Festival tographer and Arizona Highways Fireworks Over the Lake receptions. Information: www. July 24-26, Williams contributor LeRoy DeJolie. Loca- July 4, Lake Havasu City scottsdalegalleries.com Celebrate this classic form of tions include Lower Antelope Celebrate our nation’s birthday communication at the Wil- Canyon, Secret Canyon and and start the long holiday week- Cornfest liams rodeo grounds. The event Horseshoe Bend. Information: end with amazing fireworks over July 17-18, Camp Verde includes seminars, commercial 888-790-7042 or www.ahpw. Lake Havasu. The show begins This celebration of the Verde vendors, a swap meet, door prizes org

14 JULY 2015 For more events, visit www.arizonahighways.com/events. NOTE TO PUB: DO NOT PRINT INFO BELOW, FOR ID ONLY. NO ALTERING OF AD COUNCIL PSAs. Wildfire Prevention - Magazine - 4/C - WFPA03-M-01264-C “Your Name Here” 7 x 10 120 line screen digital files at Schawk: (212) 689-8585 Ref#: 212236 THE BLUE RANGE PRIMITIVE AREA IS THE LAST PRIMITIVE AREA IN AMERICA. ALL THE REST WERE GIVEN WILDERNESS PROTECTION YEARS AGO. IS IT TIME TO DO THE SAME FOR THE BLUE?

BY KELLY VAUGHN

The evergreens of Eastern Arizona’s Blue Range Primitive Area frame a view of New Mexico’s Blue Range Wilderness to the east. While New Mexico’s portion of the Blue Range has received wilderness protection, Arizona’s remains a primitive area — the last such area in the U.S. | JACK DYKINGA BLUE16 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 17 LONG AGO AND OFTEN I DREAMED THE BLUE. Before I walked into and through parts of it, I awoke from ronmentalism and policy, of the slow evolution of a land that it — sleep-drunk on the memory of being lost and found in became lost without political advocates. woods thick and wild. In 1929, on the heels of Leopold’s charge to designate the nearby Then, one October morning, I set into the Blue Range Primi- Gila Wilderness, the U.S. Forest Service published its “L-20” regu- tive Area and trespassed back into the dream. lation to designate primitive areas within national forests. The last of the federally designated primitive areas in the The document applauded the concept of wilderness but national-forest system, the Blue spans 199,505 acres along the didn’t do much to permanently protect wild lands. In fact, it state’s far-eastern edge, cutting a rough spine between Arizona kept intact existing Forest Service capability to change boundar- and the Blue Range Wilderness of New Mexico. ies and allowed activities that could impact wilderness quali- Its namesake river flows nearly 51 miles from near Alpine to ties. Regardless, by the end of 1933, 8.7 million acres in 63 areas, its confluence with the San Francisco River near Clifton. That including the Blue Range, had been designated primitive. river’s valley served as pas- At the time, the public sage for Francisco Vázquez de hadn’t yet accepted the term Coronado and his men as they “wilderness” as a positive, wandered the Southwest in according to Don Hoffman, search of the fabled Seven Cit- the former executive director ies of Cibola. of the Arizona Wilderness Hundreds of years after Coalition and a longtime resi- Coronado traversed Eastern dent of Blue, the tiny, unin- Arizona, naturalist Aldo Leo- corporated Greenlee County pold learned to “think like community on the edge of the a mountain” on Escudilla, primitive area. the state’s 12th-highest peak. “The Forest Service decided There and within the Blue, that the label of ‘wilderness’ he began the slow work of wasn’t very popular because changing public perception most previous associations about wild places, of educat- with the term were negative,” ing politicians and civilians Hoffman says. “There were alike about the importance of biblical connotations, where protecting them. one was banished to the wil- And today, the Blue River, derness. Also, the American its valley and its range com- frontier ethic was to con- prise perhaps the state’s most quer and quell ‘wilderness.’ unsullied landscape — Henry To enjoy wilderness for its Wadsworth Longfellow’s solitude or to achieve spiritual forest primeval made real by renewal were new concepts murmuring pines so dense for most Americans. As an that, once in them, you find alternative, the L-20 regula- yourself swallowed by their tion created primitive areas.” long shadows. ABOVE: A number of creeks originate from ephemeral springs to feed the Blue’s By 1939, total primitive acre- diverse plant and animal community. | JERRY SIEVE As I did. OPPOSITE PAGE: Mature aspens mingle with lush ferns and a pink-blossomed New age had increased to 14 million. I went to find the river, to Mexico locust in the primitive area. | JACK DYKINGA That same year, at the urging taste in sips one of Arizona’s of Wilderness Society founder greatest wild spaces. I went to try to understand what it means and Forest Service employee Bob Marshall, the L-20 regulation to be primitive. But, more than anything, I wanted to build an was replaced by the “U” regulations, which provided stronger argument for congressional designation of the Blue as a wilder- protection for wilderness characteristics and offered a somewhat ness area, a label that would afford it the ultimate environmen- greater assumption of permanence. In other words, no changes tal protections under federal law. could be made to the way primitive areas were managed — or protected — without an order by the secretary of agriculture. The U regulations finally and effectively protected the Blue THE ADMINISTRATIVE HISTORY of the Blue reads as a fairly anti- and a number of other wild landscapes as primitive areas, climactic tale. It’s the story of how one of Leopold’s favorite stating that the Forest Service would be required “to maintain landscapes became lost in the bureaucratic shuffle of envi- primitive conditions of transportation, subsistence, habitation,

18 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 19 and environment to the fullest degree compatible with [the lands’] highest public use.” There could be no roads and no motorized travel. No bicy- cles. No mechanized tools. In short, primitive areas were to be maintained as wild lands without development and without the sorts of human technological intrusions that have a ten- Need hi-rez dency to devastate wild places. What’s more, the U regulations required that primitive areas be reclassified into three new categories: wilderness, with lands of 100,000 acres or more; wild, with lands of 5,000 to 99,999 acres; and roadless. By those standards, the Blue was But nowhere have considered wilderness. I felt my human-ness Decades later, much about the public’s perception of the term “wilderness” had changed. The Wilderness Act of 1964 passed, more than in the and the federal government awarded ultimate protection to 54 Blue. There, as with wilderness areas across the country. The Blue, though, along with 33 other primitive areas, retained its existing status. so many wild places The act mandated that, within 10 years of its passage, there across the state, be a Forest Service review of the remaining 34 primitive areas for potential wilderness designation. Hoffman says the agency finding water means completed its review of the Blue and recommended the area for finding wildlife. Birds. designation, but without an Arizona-sponsored bill to support Mule deer. Coues the change in Congress, nothing happened. During the ’70s and ’80s, advocates made multiple attempts white-tailed deer. to create a cohesive Blue Range Wilderness in Arizona and Elk. Coyotes. More. New Mexico. But in 1980, New Mexico’s congressional del- egates successfully sponsored a bill that designated only the People are the New Mexico portion as wilderness. out-of-place things. A 1984 effort by the fledgling Arizona Wilderness Coali- tion attempted to protect a number of roadless areas, including Bureau of Land Management holdings on the Arizona Strip and a number of national-forest areas, including the Blue. There was compromise and bargaining. According to Hoffman, then-Ari- zona Representative Morris Udall considered the Blue a “tough sell.” It was ultimately bargained out in exchange for the Mount Wrightson Wilderness in the Coronado National Forest south of Tucson and the Escudilla Wilderness north of the Blue Range. “The thinking was that the Blue would still be protected as a primitive area,” Hoffman says. “The Wilderness Act still dictated to the Forest Service that the range would have to be maintained under those regulations, some of which are more strict than wil- derness regulations. For example, only the chief of the Forest Ser- vice can authorize the landing of aircraft in a primitive area.” The meandering Blue River reflects surrounding rock formations covered with piñon pines. The river runs What, then, is the fundamental difference between a primi- for nearly 51 miles before it joins the San Francisco River northeast of Clifton. | RANDY PRENTICE tive area and a wilderness area? Mineral claims. Wilderness areas can’t be prospected. Primitive areas can. negative impact on the environment, often resulting in the And, one late winter, I wandered a familiar trail in Sycamore zona. That ursine hero made his home on Escudilla, and I con- “There are abandoned mining claims in the Blue,” Hoffman inability to sustain life in badly affected areas.” Canyon, feeling as though I was watching my own life from a jure him almost as often as I dream the woods thick and wild. says. “There’s nothing active, but there’s a potential for copper- reel, outside in. At Hoffman’s suggestion, I intended to take the Bonanza Bill mining.” But nowhere have I felt my human-ness more than in the Blue. Trail to Cow Flat. I’d camp, then take the Cow Flat Trail all the And that would have a tremendous environmental effect on THERE ARE PLACES IN ARIZONA where I have felt a trespasser. There, as with so many wild places across the state, finding way to the Blue River and back. I’d cover about 38 miles in three one of the country’s most pristine landscapes. As a University Once, among the buckwheat and white sand on Paria River water means finding wildlife. Birds. Mule deer. Coues white- days, carrying a 40-pound pack stuffed full of gear, food and of Virginia study reads: “The way in which copper has been Beach at Marble Canyon, I watched a heron fish. Then it flew tailed deer. Elk. Coyotes. More. People are the out-of-place things. enough water to get to camp. There would be, Hoffman said, traditionally mined has resulted in the production of toxic away with a rush of wing so startling and still loud against the Within minutes of walking into the range, my footprints water in a number of ephemeral springs that run like shallow waste products and negative changes to the immediate mine din of water, I thought a whole flock of birds had lifted off. met the unmistakable tracks of black bears. Thick pads. The veins across the landscape. I could filter it and drink my fill. environment. The environmental consequences of the min- Some early autumn, I found myself deep in Wupatki casual puncture of claws. Weighty imprints in mud soft and But the bear tracks had distracted me, and I ended up in ing process are substantial and have both acute and chronic National Monument, where shards of ancient pottery rest fresh. They were, to me, magic. For so long, I had wanted to see New Mexico. effects on the geography, water, vegetation and biological life in among the rock and grit of a not-so-obvious trail, waiting to be a bear in the wild, and those prints were as close as I’d been I wasn’t sure at first, but the swell of instinct built in my chest the surrounding areas. … [Acid mine drainage] has had a huge discovered or unknowingly crushed into dirt themselves. — echoes somehow of Old Bigfoot, the last grizzly bear in Ari- like heat. Then, a couple on horseback confirmed it for me.

20 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 21 “You’re on the Tige Rim Trail,” they said. hesitant to take the dogs, making our job harder. Any delay in So I was. It hadn’t mattered, really. If anything, it was a gathering cattle means they’re exposed to predators, including bonus, because when I stopped for a snack and to rest my the wolves, for a longer period of time.” shoulders and legs, I sat high on a ledge, looking long and deep And, for the Markses, the Blue isn’t just a place to ranch. It’s into the Blue Range Wilderness next door. also home. There is no physical boundary between the two spaces, “Even after 38 years of living here, I’m still in awe of what I of course, but the philosophical boundary is worth noting. see,” Marks says. “Hearing the birds as their songs change with New Mexico’s Blue Range Wilderness had enough political the seasons, reaching a crescendo in summer as they enjoy the backers to protect it permanently. Arizona’s Blue has plenty lushness of the vegetation. The clear air and sweet water greet of advocates — the our senses every day.” Wilderness Coalition, But, the family is the Wilderness Society opposed to wilderness and Hoffman among designation for one them — but none with simple reason: It’s not the political clout to necessary, they say. push a wilderness bill “Too many people through Congress. The use the word ‘wilder- Blue needs a politician ness’ for anything that with vision enough has trees, grass and to realize that while wild animals, to actual there’s no imminent wilderness, to forests threat of copper-mining with timber-harvesting, in the Blue, there’s no to someone’s natural- guarantee that there ized yard,” Marks says. won’t ever be. In short, “Many designated the Blue needs an envi- wilderness areas and ronmentally friendly our primitive area have congressman. health problems. While “The mining issue is a naturally occurring big one,” Hoffman says. fires can be beneficial, “But there’s another Purple showy daisies bloom amid other wildflowers near Franz Spring in Lanphier Canyon, located the ability to ‘help’ by issue at stake, too. in the northeastern part of the Blue Range Primitive Area near the Arizona-New Mexico border. | lopping limbs before a There’s so much person- RANDY PRENTICE prescribed fire — when nel change in the Forest conditions are right — Service that it’s hard to keep people trained on the issues that is better. But that’s frowned on in wilderness areas. Because of face the Blue. It’s hard to constantly re-explain why the range is the magnitude of other regulations, wilderness designation is different from other areas. To me, that’s a bigger threat. Some- not really necessary. Even projects in multiple-use areas are scru- thing could happen, or something could appear because people tinized and have to go through processes and evaluations before don’t know what their responsibility is.” they can be done, and unfortunately, many beneficial ones are And, of course, there are some people who don’t want to see not seen through.” the Blue achieve wilderness status. Ranchers and environmen- talists have long held differing opinions about wilderness poli- cies, particularly on the subject of wildlife management. That DESPITE HAVING TAKEN the wrong trail, I found my way to the issue became paramount in 1998, when the Arizona Game and right one, pulled water from Franz Spring, filtered it and drank Fish Department began reintroducing Mexican gray wolves the cold miracle of earth — some long-ago snowmelt that had into portions of their historical range, including the Blue and found its way to me in that moment. surrounding areas. And that was a problem for ranchers. Shortly after, camp. The ground was soft, and as the sun The Marks family has lived and worked the Blue on the WY started to fade behind a ridge, its last light struggled through Bar Ranch since 1891. the pines like candlelight around corners. I had walked into Just this spring, wolves killed a pregnant cow on the Mark- the Blue on the cusp of a big decision, the kind that calls for ses’ ranch, bringing back a more-than-decade-old memory of solitude, for a lot of space and little sound. The range afforded when the Aspen pack threatened the community, killing cattle me that, and then some. and bullying pets. At nearly 4 on my second morning in the range, I awoke “I know we raise the cattle for beef, but we really care about to the sound of wolves. Coyotes? No. I’ve heard them enough KP Creek cascades over a them,” says Barbara Marks. “We use dogs to help us move the times to know that these barks and howls were different, more series of waterfalls. The cattle, but wolves are extremely territorial and will attack animal, more sure. creek joins the Blue River them. The dogs are our companions, but they’re also vital for They called to each other across a space I could only imagine. near the center of the primitive area. ranch management. If we know wolves are in an area, we’re I figured myself right between them, and it was exactly where I | ROBERT G. McDONALD 22 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 23 wanted to be. I’ve tried several times to write what it sounded ghosts. So, too, did the Blue River. like, but I fail each time. At best, I can muster these words: alive, After miles of trekking, I knew that there wasn’t enough desirous and louder than anything I’d heard the entire trip. light to make it to the river and back. I’d crossed dry meadows Days later, back in Phoenix, I emailed Jeff Dolphin, the Ari- and gullies full of green ferns, scrambled up rocky hillsides and zona Game and Fish Department’s wolf expert. bypassed the sun-bleached skeleton of some long-dead horse. “I woke several times to the howling of what I thought might I found the remnants of an old cowboy cabin and ate my lunch be wolves,” I wrote. “I’m wondering if you have any way of with a great, green, fat caterpillar crawling over my boot. And I knowing if there were packs in the area Friday and Saturday knew I didn’t want to be caught in that wild in the dark. I had a nights and Sunday morning, and, if so, you might be able to tell headlamp, sure. But there were wolves. And bears. And dozens me what packs they were and any information about them.” of other unnamed, beautiful things to startle and be startled Months earlier, I had stood near Baldy Peak with Dolphin by. So, I returned to camp, and the next morning, once more and listened to radio awakened by wolves, pings from the col- I retraced my route lars of nearby wolves. back and out of the I had hoped that the Blue — this time voices I heard in the making certain I Blue might be from found Bonanza Bill. the same. Months before I “I’m so sorry I have went into the range, not gotten back to you I had read Black sooner,” he replied Elk Speaks, John weeks after my email. Neihardt’s beauti- “I have been all over ful interpretation the state, dealing with of the life and sto- wolf issues. Currently, ries of the Oglala we have no collared Lakota medicine wolves in that area. man. Nearly 2 miles I’ve always suspected from the trailhead, wolves might be I looked up and saw [there], since none of that some long-ago our current collared traveler had posted wolves stay in that a cover from another area. That would version of the book indicate another midway up the pack is in there OPPOSITE PAGE: Near the unincorporated community of Blue, yellow wildflowers grow near an old corral — trunk of a narrow a rare sign of human presence in the area. | RANDY PRENTICE keeping our collared ABOVE: Bracken ferns and ponderosa pines are among the primitive area’s plant species. | JACK DYKINGA ponderosa pine. wolves out.” Certainly, Black As I prepared to Elk never wandered put this story to bed, I heard once again from Dolphin. the Blue, but his words as they relate to wilderness seem universal: “We counted three uncollared wolves there during the last “And while I stood there, I saw more than I can tell and I population survey,” he wrote. “I felt like you had a credible understood more than I saw; for I was seeing in a sacred man- sighting, and we had wolf tracks on the New Mexico side of ner the shapes of all things in the spirit, and the shape of all Pueblo Park Road in November. We’re still monitoring that area shapes as they must live together like one being.” to see if we have any opportunity to collar anything there.” And while I stood there, I realized that the dirt beneath my And that, to me, is one of the biggest reasons the Blue is nails and on my boots and in my hair and clothes had rendered worthy of wilderness designation. Ecologically, it’s one of the me clean. My legs bled from the barbs of some angry bush, and most diverse, pristine places in the state. Hoffman agrees. my shoulders ached with the sore of too many miles under too “The Blue is big. It’s scenic,” he says. ”It provides all of the much weight. And I knew that I would be an advocate for the opportunities for solitude and primitive recreation — it’s large Blue. My argument for wilderness protection wasn’t as hard to enough to provide real backcountry experiences. And it’s no find as I thought it would be. accident that this area was selected as a place to release the I had walked in the Blue. Breathed it. Survived it. I had legally wolves. There’s plenty of prey. There’s water. The biological trespassed there, and it swallowed me. And that was enough. potential here is unique beyond any other place in the South- I don’t know if the Blue Range Primitive Area will become west, and certainly in Arizona.” the Blue Range Wilderness in my lifetime. But I know now that I will dream it — the forest primeval, protected.

I WALKED CAREFULLY the day I heard the wolves, hoping to For more information about the Blue Range Primitive Area, including 10 things to do catch a glimpse of them. But, like the bear, they remained only in and near it, visit www.arizonahighways.com.

24 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 25 The Grass Is Always Greener ... Like April showers everywhere else in America, summer monsoons in Southern Arizona bring wildflowers, wildlife and lush, green grasses to the Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge. As our photographer likes to say, the 117,464-acre sanctuary is the state’s version of the Serengeti. The Grass A PORTFOLIO BY JACK DYKINGA Is Always Greener ... Like April showers everywhere else in America, summer monsoons in Southern Arizona bring wildflowers, wildlife and lush, green grasses to the Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge. As our photographer likes to say, the 117,464-acre sanctuary is the state’s version of the Serengeti. A PORTFOLIO BY JACK DYKINGA

26 JULY 2015 PRECEDING PANEL: Distant rainfall forms a backdrop for prickly pear cactuses and grasses at Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge. “Spacing is the dominant theme in the desert,” photographer Jack Dykinga says. “The prickly pears are spaced far enough apart to be assured of an opportunity to harvest the ephemeral rain.” CAMERA: NIKON D810; SHUTTER: 1/15 SEC; APERTURE: F/16; ISO: 64; FOCAL LENGTH: 24 MM

LEFT: The iconic Baboquivari Peak looms over mule deer as they traverse a mesquite-lined grassland. “Having been to Africa many times, this scene reminded me of Kenya’s Serengeti, where I photographed a group of Thomson’s gazelles,” Dykinga says. CAMERA: NIKON D800E; SHUTTER: 1/500 SEC; APERTURE: F/7.1; ISO: 400; FOCAL LENGTH: 320 MM

ABOVE: “In August, the amber grasses of the refuge are punctuated by splashes of color from barrel-cactus blossoms,” Dykinga says. CAMERA: NIKON D800E; SHUTTER: 1/10 SEC; APERTURE: F/18; ISO: 100; FOCAL LENGTH: 24 MM

followING PANEL: At sunset, a monsoon storm brings rain and lightning to the Baboquivari Mountains to the west. Dykinga used a lightning trigger to capture the strikes. CAMERA: NIKON D800E; SHUTTER: 1/10 SEC; APERTURE: F/14; ISO: 100; FOCAL LENGTH: 85 MM

28 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 29 30 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 31 32 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 33 ABOVE: After a monsoon storm drenches the refuge, Arizona poppies burst into bloom. “The horizontal world of the Buenos Aires can explode with color after summer rains revive the grassland,” Dykinga says. CAMERA: ARCA-SWISS 4X5; FILM: FUJICHROME VELVIA; SHUTTER: 1/4 SEC; APERTURE: F/32; ISO: 50; FOCAL LENGTH: 75 MM

PRECEDING PANEL: False Rhodes grass sways in the breeze at ABOVE: After a monsoon storm drenches the refuge, Arizona poppies a restored grassland beneath the Baboquivari Mountains. “Standing in a burst into bloom. “The horizontal world of the Buenos Aires can explode dense stand of this grass is both a wonderful experience and a source of with color after summer rains revive the grassland,” Dykinga says. frustration for photographers wanting to ‘freeze’ the action,” Dykinga says. CAMERA: ARCA-SWISS 4X5; FILM: FUJICHROME VELVIA; SHUTTER: 1/4 SEC; CAMERA: NIKON D810; SHUTTER: 1/320 SEC; APERTURE: F/16; ISO: 400; APERTURE: F/32; ISO: 50; FOCAL LENGTH: 75 MM FOCAL LENGTH: 24 MM

34 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 35 LEFT: xxLorae veliandunt. Otat aut et vitist, ea erum quiaes ernam utempe laceres tibearum lam lab illaceptiore secatiis et, aut este paria cus nonsedition CAMERA: TKNAMENIKONCANNON; SHUTTER: X.X SEC; APERTURE: F/XX; ISO: XXX; FOCAL LENGTH: XX MM

ABOVE: “I’m always intrigued by the way plant communities are woven together,” Dykinga says. Here, purple and yellow wildflowers mingle with the leaves of a soaptree yucca. CAMERA: NIKON D810; SHUTTER: 1/30 SEC; APERTURE: F/20; ISO: 200; FOCAL LENGTH: 85 MM

RIGHT: Sunrise illuminates longbarb arrowhead plants at a marsh where endangered Chiricahua leopard frogs breed. Dykinga calls the marsh “an amazing place to ‘feel’ the sunrise and sunset amid frog and bird noise.” CAMERA: ARCA-SWISS 4X5; FILM: FUJICHROME VELVIA; SHUTTER: 6 SEC; APERTURE: F/45; ISO: 50; FOCAL LENGTH: 75 MM

WHEN YOU GO: There are no entrance fees for Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge. For directions and more information, call 520-823-4251 or visit www.fws.gov/refuge/buenos_aires.

36 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 37 An agave stalk blooms on the rim of Walnut PECTACULAR CANYON COUNTRY is not far from the mountain town of Flagstaff. Canyon near Flagstaff. Several hundred The Grand Canyon is just 90 miles away; Sycamore and Oak Creek canyons are a mere Flagstaff residents are 20 miles. But the scenic gorge closest to the hearts — and homes — of many Flagstaff resi- pushing for increased federal protection for dents is Walnut Canyon. ¶ Located just 5 miles southeast of downtown Flagstaff, the canyon. Walnut Canyon meanders through wild country that harbors sparse roads and rare stands TOM BEAN FOR LAND’S SAKE of old-growth ponderosa pines, as well as a rich riparian area filled with the canyon’s Walnut Canyon National Monument is one of Northern Arizona’s points of pride, but the scenic, ecological and archaeological splendor of the canyon goes beyond the monument boundaries. What surrounds the namesake Arizona walnut trees. Pronghorns roam the open, grassy plateaus of Campbell Mesa and Anderson Mesa, which flank the canyon. And tucked away in Walnut’s 400-foot- gorge is equally impressive, which is why a coalition of Flagstaff citizens is lobbying Congress to protect the tall cliffs are dozens of ancient archaeological sites. The most substantial cliff dwellings are land by designating it a national conservation area. By Annette McGivney protected in the 3,580-acre Walnut Canyon National Monument, but the scenic, ecological

38 JULY 2015 S www.arizonahighways.com 39 and archaeological resources of the canyon extend well beyond movement to protect Walnut Canyon. the park boundaries. The conservation effort began in earnest in 2002, when The fact that a large part of the Walnut Canyon drainage is Flagstaff citizens banded together and petitioned Northern located within Flagstaff’s city limits is both a blessing and a Arizona’s congressional delegation to protect Walnut Canyon curse. A network of trails through the canyon and on Campbell National Monument from the threat of encroaching urban Mesa is a favorite playground for hikers, mountain bikers and development, as well as exempt the larger canyon drainage equestrians. But as the city of 65,000 residents continues to from land exchanges. The National Park Service was also inter- expand, the prospect of losing part of this backcountry oasis, ested in establishing a buffer around the monument, and the located almost entirely on the Coconino National Forest, to U.S. Forest Service was concerned about impacts to lands it a land exchange or sale to developers is an ever-increasing managed along Flagstaff’s urban interface. threat. That’s why several hundred Flagstaff residents have From 2000 to 2010, Flagstaff’s population grew by nearly been fighting for more than a decade to get increased federal 25 percent, and housing developments expanded all the way protection for their beloved canyon. to the national-forest boundary along Campbell Mesa, as well “This is Flagstaff’s canyon. It is a unique and special place as along parts of the Walnut Canyon drainage. As a result of that is a recreation resource for the whole city,” said Flagstaff continued public pressure and petitions from the Coconino resident Ralph Baierlein, who is spearheading the grass-roots County Board of Supervisors and the Flagstaff City Council, Congress in 2009 authorized a special study of the lands sur- rounding Walnut Canyon National Monument. The study area encompasses nearly 28,000 acres of federal, state and private land, including Walnut Canyon, several side canyons and “The continued effort to protect the study Campbell Mesa. The goal of the study was to investigate man- agement options for the area, including expanding the monu- OPPOSITE PAGE: Most of the ancient dwellings in Walnut Canyon area shows how much people love this were inhabited by the Sinagua people, who farmed in the area ment and converting it into a national park. between A.D. 600 and 1400. GEORGE H.H. HUEY Carried out jointly by the Forest Service and the Park Ser- place,” said Mike Elson, a Coconino National ABOVE: Elk graze in a meadow in Fay Canyon, which is within the vice, the four-year study involved extensive surveys of the nearly 28,000-acre Walnut Canyon study area. TOM BEAN Forest district ranger. “It is valuable to a lot area’s archaeological, ecological and recreational use, along RIGHT: The Sandys Canyon Trail winds around old-growth pon- with input from Flagstaff residents and Native American derosa pines in the study area. TOM BEAN of people for a lot of different reasons.” tribes. The results of the study were released in January 2014. While the agencies determined that the large swath of Forest Service land did not meet the strict guidelines required for national-park designation, it did meet the criteria for a national conservation area. According to the U.S. Department of the Interior, “national HOTOGRAPHER TOM BEAN, a frequent Arizona conservation areas are designated by Congress to conserve, Highways contributor, and writer Susan Lamb live enhance, protect and manage public lands for the benefit and on a 10-acre parcel within the Walnut Canyon study enjoyment of present and future generations.” Public lands that area. The married couple are among the hundreds meet the criteria for a conservation area contain “exceptional of Flagstaff residents who find refuge in the nascent scientific, cultural, ecological, historical and recreation values.” national conservation area nearly every day and are There are currently three national conservation areas in Ari- Pfighting to protect their favorite place. On a crisp morning in zona: San Pedro Riparian, Gila Box Riparian and Las Cienegas. October, I accompanied them on their usual stroll. The designation for Walnut Canyon would prevent future “I like to roam through here,” Bean said as we walked across development of the land while maintaining current access and an open, forested area. It’s about a quarter-mile from the cou- of species,” Lamb said. “I’ve discovered wild strawberries and uses. And, perhaps just as important to Flagstaff residents, it ple’s backyard and is populated by majestic stands of mature grapes in this canyon, and also columbines and lilies during would elevate the status of the Walnut Canyon study area to ponderosas. “I call it the tree temple.” the wet season.” She pointed to a jagged limestone ledge along something special. We dropped down into Skunk Canyon, and the musky smell the cliff face: “During the monsoon, a hanging garden grows “The continued effort to protect the study area shows how of dogwoods, for which the place is named, filled our nostrils. there.” much people love this place,” said Mike Elson, a Coconino In addition to the parts of Walnut Canyon not already part of When you hike in a place nearly every day for 20 years, as National Forest district ranger. “It is valuable to a lot of people the national monument, the study area encompasses the major Lamb and Bean have, you get to know the land on an intimate for a lot of different reasons.” side drainages of Skunk, Fay and Cherry canyons. While the level and witness its subtle shifts through the seasons. Lamb However, an act of Congress does not come easily. And main canyon cut by the ephemeral Walnut Creek contains a said Skunk Canyon is her favorite part of the Walnut drainage while the Forest Service and the Park Service are tasked with habitat similar to other riparian areas in Northern Arizona, because of its abundance of wildflowers. She keeps a flower managing the land, they do not lobby politicians for protec- the microclimates in the side canyons host a unique mix of almanac of what she encounters in the study area; it now num- tive designations. So the loose-knit, grass-roots coalition of plant species. As we made our way down Skunk Canyon, Lamb bers 200 species. people who love Walnut Canyon is taking the fight from Flag- pointed out that we were in an ecological transition zone. On After several miles, we dropped into the broad corridor staff to Washington, D.C. Even if the study area does not meet the north-facing canyon slope, mature Douglas firs were thriv- of Walnut Canyon, where the 400-foot-tall sandstone-and- national-park standards, it is a crown jewel for Flagstaff. And ing in perpetual shade. But amid rocks on the south-facing can- limestone monolith of Fisher Point glistened white against if the activists get their way, it will soon be called Walnut Can- yon walls, bright-green agaves basked in the autumn sun. the blue sky. Stands of aspens on the canyon floor shimmered yon National Conservation Area. “It’s like the Pacific Northwest here because of the diversity gold in the midday sun. Just east of the point, Walnut Canyon

40 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 41 squeezes down into a narrow section, several miles long, that harbors giant old-growth ponderosas, thickets of poison ivy and caves at the bases of canyon walls. We made a brief detour into the narrows and then hiked south on the Arizona Trail, which follows the meandering path of Walnut Creek. “This is everybody’s backyard,” Bean said. “This trail is well used by hikers, mountain bikers and horseback riders.” On the weekday we were there, though, we encountered only one cyclist and two other hikers. We ventured off the trail and scrambled up a steep scree slope to reach a cliff face where a pictograph panel attests to the long human history in Walnut Canyon. According to archaeological surveys done for the federal study, most rock-art sites and cliff dwellings found in Walnut Walnut Canyon’s Canyon are from the Sinagua culture, sandstone cliffs protect which farmed in the drainage between stands of aspens and A.D. 600 and 1400. However, some arti- Douglas firs below Fisher Point. facts are estimated to be far older and TOM BEAN date back to prehistoric hunter-gatherer cultures. The Hopi Tribe claims ancestral ties to the sites in Walnut Canyon, and the Navajo Nation, as well as 11 other Southwestern tribes, also reports cultural connections to the study area. Bean, Lamb and I pondered the possible meaning of the human stick figures that seemed to float ethereally across the salmon-colored sandstone. Some looked like they could have been painted yesterday, while others had almost faded into oblivion. As we slid back down the scree slope toward the trail, a mountain biker threaded his way between trees along the can- yon bottom. “People have been using this canyon for more than 9,000 years,” Bean said.

N THE LATE 1990s, Baierlein, the Flagstaff activist, and his wife were looking for a place to retire. After a long career as a physics professor for Harvard and Wesleyan universities, Baierlein “wanted to live in a place with blue skies.” After a 1996 visit to Flagstaff, he and his wife were sold. They bought a home in the Country Club neighbor- Ihood adjacent to Campbell Mesa and the northwestern part of Walnut Canyon. Soon after moving in 1999, Baierlein became concerned about development threats to his new stomping grounds and joined efforts to protect the area. “I’ve been working on this, one way or another, for 14 years,” Baierlein, 78, said as we set out from the Campbell Mesa Trail- head on an unseasonably warm afternoon in January. I had joined Baierlein for his regular hike on the mesa’s 13-mile trail system. In two days — after years of Baierlein’s persistent, yet diplomatic, prodding — the Flagstaff City Council would finally vote on a resolution to support protecting the study area. As we traipsed through mud turned to goo by the after- noon sun, the mild-mannered professor felt the gravity of the upcoming vote. It was the final hurdle before the proposal for a national conservation area could be sent to Congress. “All the sides have had their say,” he said of the protracted battle. “Now we’re in a much stronger position to get a bill passed.” Baierlein has seen elk, deer, bobcats, pronghorns and javeli-

42 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 43 LEFT: Fog and mist shroud the pines of Walnut Canyon near the Sandys Canyon junction. TOM BEAN BELOW: Lewis flax blooms amid blue grama grass in Fay Canyon after a mon- soon storm. TOM BEAN

At the top of a grassy knoll, we paused to catch our breath. The snow-covered San Francisco Peaks sparkled to the north. To the south, Walnut Canyon dropped away into folds of sandstone. Baierlein pointed to a log on the ground: “My wife and I usually stop and sit here and admire the view.”

nas during his Campbell Mesa hikes. He also likes to ride his horse through the northern end of the study area. “I’ve seen this area improve greatly over the last decade,” he said. “Now, there is a nice trail system. It used to be covered with tracks from trucks and trash from partygoers.” We ventured off the trail because Baierlein wanted to show me an old sign that he found amusing. It reads: “No sheep grazing.” During the first half of the 20th century, Campbell Mesa was a major thoroughfare for driving sheep. It then became a play- ground for off-road driving. Now it is closed to motorized vehi- cles and traveled by hikers, mountain bikers and dog walkers. Back on the trail, Baierlein pointed out places where he often sees potsherds. As we gained elevation, the juniper scrub forest opened up to a spacious meadow. At the top of a grassy knoll, we paused to catch our breath. The snow-covered San Fran- cisco Peaks sparkled to the north. To the south, Walnut Can- yon dropped away into folds of sandstone. Baierlein pointed to a log on the ground: “My wife and I usually stop and sit here and admire the view.” The City Council would vote 5-2 in support of the resolution asking Congress to designate the study area a national conser- vation area. Next on Baierlein’s agenda was contacting mem- bers of Arizona’s congressional delegation to see if they would sponsor a bill on behalf of the people who love Walnut Canyon. But on this day, as on so many days over the past 15 years, he was enjoying the view from his neighborhood sanctuary. “This kind of openness,” he said, “is really wonderful.”

For more information on Walnut Canyon National Monument, call 928-526-3367 or visit www.nps.gov/waca.

44 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 45 THE STAR It’s not the most powerful telescope in the world, but the Clark is one of the most impressive. Among other things, its history ATTRACTION includes the discovery of Pluto and map- ping the surface of the moon. Today, the newly restored refracting telescope is the highlight of a field trip to Lowell Observatory, where visitors can look through the 120-year-old glass at Saturn, Jupiter and other parts of outer space. BY NOAH AUSTIN PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAWN KISH

OWELL OBSERVATORY SITS on Mars Hill overlooking Flagstaff, and it’s home to a 24-inch Alvan Clark refracting telescope. The age of the “Clark,” as it’s known, is best expressed not in years but with an observation by Lowell mechanical engineer Ralph L Nye: “The guy who made these parts rode a horse to work.” The Clark’s history includes aiding in the discovery of Pluto and mapping the surface of the moon. In recent years, it’s mostly been used by the observatory’s visitors, who line up outside its wooden dome on clear evenings for views of Jupiter, Saturn and other gems of the night sky. But more than a century of use caught up with the Clark, and in 2014, Lowell embarked on an unprecedented, massive restoration of the telescope and its dome. The instrument was disassembled; decades of grease, dust and paint were stripped away; and broken parts were replaced with exact modern replicas. And Nye gained a new appreciation for those who created this precise, sophis- ticated machine. “After taking this apart, you respect the people who put it together in the first place,” he says. “They didn’t think about time or money — just about how they were going to do it.”

A sign in Lowell’s driveway has long proclaimed the obser- vatory the “Home of Pluto.” The sign keeps getting stolen, but maybe that’s appropriate given that Pluto recently lost its status as one of our solar system’s planets. It’s now classified as a “dwarf planet,” which could have spurred hard feelings around the observatory where Pluto was discovered in 1930. But Lowell historian Kevin Schindler says visitors seem most concerned about Pluto’s plight. ABOVE: Lowell Observatory mechanical “We still have people coming in asking, ‘Are you guys OK?’ ” he says. “But it’s a great way engineer Ralph Nye makes an adjust- of introducing people to how science works.” He points out that in the early 1900s, asteroids ment on the facility’s 24-inch Alvan Clark refracting telescope. Nye has were called planets until a new classification was created. The same thing happened with been maintaining the Clark and Pluto; it just took longer. Lowell’s other telescopes since 1976. It’s a common misconception that the Clark was used to discover Pluto. Clyde Tombaugh OPPOSITE PAGE: Nye (foreground) and actually first spotted it using photographic plates from a different telescope at the observa- another worker assist as a crane lowers tory. He then used the images as a guide in locating the new object with the Clark. the Clark’s mount into the telescope’s dome following an extensive restora- Percival Lowell set up his observatory long before that, in 1894. Two years later, the Clark tion. In the background are some of arrived. It was tested in a dome designed for a much smaller telescope — creating such a the 24 truck tires on which the tight fit that it stuck out the dome’s doors in certain positions. A new, 40-foot dome, cre- dome rotates. ated from local ponderosa pines, was built in Flagstaff but first assembled in Mexico, where

46 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 47 Lowell took the Clark in late 1896 to make observations of Mars “Peter, Jeff and I are all during Flagstaff’s winter. Both the dome and the telescope returned to Flagstaff in 1897 and have been there since. perfectionists, and we’re The dome originally rotated on iron wheels, which worked poorly. Lowell engineers then tried floating the dome in a obsessive-compulsive about trough of salt water, which wouldn’t freeze like fresh water what we do,” Nye says. That’s a would. But the trough leaked constantly, so the old wheels returned, this time with a metal track. Finally, in the 1960s, necessity in astronomy, where a the observatory installed the 24 truck tires on which the dome rotates today. hundredth of an inch can mean Around that time, the Aeronautical Chart and Information Center, a branch of the Air Force, began using the Clark to map the difference between a clear the lunar surface for NASA’s Apollo missions. Since the end view and a blurry one. of that project in 1969, the Clark has primarily been used for public viewing. Lowell Putnam, the observatory’s sole trustee and Percival Lowell’s great-grandnephew, says that’s put more A few years ago, Nye says, Lowell “got a hold of a really good stress on the telescope than scientific work would. fundraiser, and I jokingly said, ‘We ought to get some money “An astronomer fixes on one point and sort of stays there,” to fix up the Clark.’ ” The fundraiser and Schindler sprang into Putnam says. “For the public, we’re moving it around and action, publicizing the observatory’s “Restore the Clark” cam- CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: working it much harder. The fact that the telescope was still paign on the Internet and social media. “Suddenly,” Nye says, Old and new collide as Lowell engineers use light functional 120 years [after installation] is a testament to the “we had all this money to do it.” from an iPhone to make workmanship.” There was just one problem: It had never been done before. precise adjustments to the ancient telescope. The restoration process involved stripping away In August 2014, the Clark’s dome is empty, and Nye and a car- layers of paint and polishing penter are repairing its wooden parts, replacing shutter ropes the instrument’s metal and tightening nails that have started to come loose. The 1954 parts. truck tires line the base of the dome’s interior, and Nye says Lowell machinist Peter one or two get replaced each year. But the tires “are a little Rosenthal (left) and Nye examine the Clark’s lens hard to get now, because some guy bought all the old molds,” before reattaching it to the he says, and using a different tire size would mean replacing telescope’s tube. all the axles. Rosenthal displays a dial to That’s the nature of restoring a 118-year-old building and be installed at the observing end of the telescope. It’s one telescope: Solve one problem, and another problem will sur- of several brass parts that face. But Lowell’s staff is up to the task. When they found, for were restored to their example, that they didn’t have the right tool to remove the four original shine. ancient bolts securing the Clark to its pedestal, they simply had two wrenches made — one to loosen the bolts and one to tighten them. The Lowell machine shop, up the hill, is where the pieces some point, they were covered with dark paint. “Every piece of pates will happen this summer. The team must install 80 feet of the Clark now sit. The larger, heavier components had to be brass on this telescope is a piece of jewelry to us, so why paint of control rods and some other accessories. The massive tele- removed through the dome’s roof using a 50-foot crane, then it?” Nye says. They got a special paint stripper to remove the scope must be precisely balanced; after that’s done, it’ll take The Clark’s refurbished main “tube,” wrapped in plastic to prevent damage, is trucked to the machine shop on trailers. There, Nye and his lead-based paint, then added an organic powder to neutralize only a fingertip to move it. And Nye will climb inside the tube trucked from the Lowell machine shop to its dome so it can be reinstalled. team, including machinists Jeff Gehring and Peter Rosenthal, the lead so they could dispose of it. Other parts got a baked-on to make adjustments — a prospect that would make even the have refurbished existing parts and created replacements for powder coating. mildest claustrophobe sweat. But the Clark wasn’t without problems. The biggest broken ones. They’ve also removed the telescope’s paint, which At this point, the Clark is almost ready to reassemble. Even Perhaps most importantly, though, Nye and others at Lowell stemmed from its 18-inch support wheel, which was used was added with a brush and, in Nye’s view, “looked like heck.” in its discombobulated state, it’s a far cry from the “mess of will have to relearn how to use the refurbished and upgraded instead of bearings because of the 7-ton telescope’s size. Over “Peter, Jeff and I are all perfectionists, and we’re obsessive- grease and dust and dirt” it was before, Nye says. “It’ll be like instrument. That will enable them to develop a user manual for the years, imperfections in the wheel took their toll. At one compulsive about what we do,” Nye says. That’s a necessity in a brand-new telescope.” operators, who can then familiarize themselves with the Clark point, Nye says, rotating the Clark by hand produced a loud astronomy, where a hundredth of an inch can mean the differ- just as Percival Lowell did more than a century ago. Nye says boom that caused the entire telescope to shake. Nye used ence between a clear view and a blurry one. that will allow the telescope to keep wowing observatory visi- a stethoscope to look for the source of the problem, but he Nye points out a setting circle, used to find objects in the Seven months later, on a cold morning in mid-March, Nye and tors for “another hundred years.” couldn’t find it without taking the whole thing apart. sky by their celestial coordinates. It’s worked well enough, but his crew have just finished putting the bulk of the Clark back “We spent almost $300,000 on this rebuild,” he says, “and Eventually, a piece broke off and the noise stopped. Later, its numbers and lines were painted on by hand in the 1890s. into its dome. A crane lowered the telescope’s “tube” through this is a priceless antique. It deserves to be operated by people Nye got a copy of a patent for a similar telescope in Colorado, Today’s Lowell engineers have made it more precise. Rosenthal the dome’s open shutters. The Clark’s priceless main lens has who really know how to use it.” enabling him to figure out what was wrong. “If I would have created new knobs for the back of the telescope, then painted also been reinstalled, which Nye says “takes a lot of worry off.” had that first, I would have maybe picked that up a little them five times until he was satisfied. Though the heavy lifting is done, there’s still plenty to do To learn more about Lowell Observatory, and to check on the status of the sooner,” he says. Many of the Clark’s components are made of brass, but at before the Clark can reopen to the public, which Nye antici- Clark Telescope, call 928-774-3358 or visit www.lowell.edu.

48 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 49 SKYBrian Klimowski patrols the skies.MARSHAL Not from an aircraft, but from the National Weather Service station 10 miles west of Flagstaff. It’s his job to issue tornado warnings, anticipate lightning strikes and help determine whether schools should have snow days. BY NIKKI BUCHANAN PHOTOGRAPH BY DEREK VON BRIESEN

T SEEMS FITTING, somehow, that Brian A. Klimowski, the meteorologist-in-charge of the National Weather Service forecast office near Flagstaff, boasts a pair of piercing baby blues behind his businesslike spectacles — as if the sky he’s studied for more than 25 years is brilliantly reflected in his startling eyes. He’s a science nerd, a nature lover and an avid landscape photographer who spends his days (and sometimes nights) in an office on a patch of prairie 10 miles west of Flagstaff, where thunderstorms are often robust, winds fierce and snows heavy. “I’m totally immersed in weather, the ever-changing nature of it,” he says, admitting that he’s been inter- ested in the Earth sciences since boyhood, when he hiked and backpacked with two outdoorsy brothers. He describes himself as the kid who always asked, “Why?” He took up astronomy at an early age and later earned an undergraduate degree in geology and geophysics. “My career went up from there,” he jokes, alluding to the Ph.D. he earned in atmospheric science at the Uni- versity of Wyoming in 1994. While working on that degree, Klimowski did a lot of what he calls “fun stuff” in a research aircraft, fearlessly flying through various kinds of crazy weather to investigate the evolution of severe

thunderstorms. Was it scary? “More like awe-inspir- When daunting weather strikes and lives are at ing,” he says, explaining that it was Nature’s power stake — as with, say, severe storms and resulting Ithat drew him to this field in the first place. flash floods — Klimowski staffs the office differently, These days, he spends 20 to 30 percent of his time bringing in more bodies and, in some cases, asking forecasting. He devotes the rest of it to managing them to work long hours. On a severe-weather day, the general operations, supervising staff and interacting meteorologists in the office spend their time assessing with partners such as emergency-management organi- numerous storms using weather radar, figuring out zations, the Arizona Department of Transportation, which storms may become severe, and communicating being — someone who understands the intricacies of Fire, which, owing to soil erosion, led to severe flash- school districts, airports, fire managers and Native updated forecasts, advisories and warnings when a the atmosphere, the local terrain’s interaction with the flooding during the monsoon season. In October, American tribes. Those communities and agencies rely weather hazard is identified. air and the impacts of dangerous weather for a wide 11 significant tornadoes raked the countryside near heavily on weather forecasts, watches and warnings to Like everyone else in our social-media-centric range of communities — to make those all-important Flagstaff, damaging homes, leveling miles of forest, determine, for example, whether highways or schools world, Flagstaff’s Weather Service office communi- assessments. shutting down Interstate 40 and leaving heavy debris should be closed in anticipation of a major winter cates regularly through Facebook, Twitter and its Although the meteorologists send up weather bal- in their wake. But Klimowski seems to thrive on prob- storm. Klimowski and his crew help their partners website, sometimes conducting online chats with loons (pictured) to collect data about wind, humidity, lems: “That’s why we’re here.” make those critical decisions. Arizona’s other meteorologists or discussing an ongo- temperature and air pressure twice a day and carefully When he has a day off, the meteorologist often ing situation with the folks at the Weather Channel analyze numerous forecast models at the beginning jumps in the car to make photographs of the Arizona “OUR MISSION IS TO PROTECT lives and property,” through an old-fashioned telephone call. Making of each shift, they sometimes have to go with their landscapes he knows and loves. He might follow the Klimowski says, pointing out that during the early seven-day forecasts in stable weather is the easiest gut, selecting what their instincts tell them is the best snowplow down to Sedona to capture snow on the red summer months, when devastating wildfires are a part of the job. solution. Even a small error or change in a forecast rocks at first light or barrel up to the Grand Canyon constant threat, he and his 22-person crew shift 50 to Fourteen members of Klimowski’s team are profes- can have big consequences. “If we’re forecasting snow to catch fog hovering over the chasm. Who better to 60 percent of their focus to monitoring and forecast- sional meteorologists, people he proudly calls “the levels,” Klimowski says, “and we’re off by 200 feet in know where the snow and the fog are likely to be? ing fire weather conditions. As is true at all 122 of the best scientists and thinkers.” Apparently, they need elevation, Flagstaff’s predicted snow turns into rain.” And who better to appreciate the weather’s gorgeous National Weather Service’s forecast offices across the to be, because weather, he maintains, cannot be Klimowski remembers 2010 as a challenging year. effects? “Photography,” he says, “allows me to express country, this place stays open 24/7/365, maintaining at accurately predicted by a computer program, no mat- There was an almost unprecedented 54 inches of snow the beauty I love in our landscape. It’s inspiring. I’m least two people on watch at all times. ter how state of the art it might be. It takes a human in mid- to late January. In June, there was the Schultz often moved by what I see.”

50 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 51 scenic drive

Lava River Cave is the main attraction on this scenic drive, Lava Cave Loop but the sights along the way are pretty nice, too. BY KATHY MONTGOMERY | PHOTOGRAPHS BY JEFF KIDA

n the heat of summer, there’s no better Cave. The entrance to the cave is located round, homesteaders once collected ice place to take a road trip than Flagstaff, about 300 yards east of the parking area from the cave to use for refrigeration. I and no better route than this 24.4-mile and is marked by a circle of rocks and a The tube is slippery, jagged in places loop, which winds along shady forest plaque. and very dark. The U.S. Forest Service roads past wildflower-filled meadows The lava-tube cave is three-quarters of advises taking three light sources in and includes a short detour to Lava River a mile long, the longest of its kind in Ari- case one fails. Headlamps are recom- Cave, Northern Arizona’s natural icebox. zona. Geologists believe it formed in a mended to keep hands free. The hike We begin at Forest Road 171, about matter of hours about 700,000 years ago, is approximately 1.5 miles in and back, 10 miles west of Flagstaff. The gravel when lava erupted from a nearby volca- and it ranges from a wide, spacious tun- road is bumpy but wide and straight as nic vent. The tube formed as the top and nel to a short crab crawl. it runs through a well-managed ponder- sides cooled, but the molten river con- Back on FR 171, we could continue osa-pine forest, which occasionally gives tinued to flow through the center. straight for another 4 miles to the trail- way to wide, grassy meadows strewn Because it formed quickly, the cave head for Kendrick Peak. Instead, we with volcanic rock. floor is like a river frozen in time, with turn right after 2 miles onto Forest Road After a few miles, the road opens to ripples and the rocks the lava was carry- 193. On this road, we catch occasional views of Kendrick Peak, one of the larger ing suspended in place. The ceiling drips glimpses of the San Francisco Peaks in volcanoes in the San Francisco Volcanic with “lavacicles,” which formed as hot the distance and see a small grove of Field. Rising to an elevation of more gas shot through the cave shortly after it aspens, the first of our drive, growing than 10,000 feet, it’s an impressive sight. formed, partially re-melting the lava. out of a rocky outcrop. After 7 miles, we turn right onto Lumbermen discovered the cave After 3 miles, we pick up U.S. Route BELOW AND OPPOSITE PAGE: The Lava Cave Loop Forest Road 171B and drive the quarter- around 1915. Because the temperature winds through the ponderosa pines of the Coconino 180, turn right and continue south. mile to the parking area for Lava River inside remains in the 30s and 40s year- National Forest west of Flagstaff. This stretch is scattered with stands of aspens, their small leaves glittering like the sequins of a party dress against paper-white legs. After another 3.3 miles, we turn right onto Forest Road 247. It’s easy to miss, but we find the turnoff just north of Milepost 229, about a mile south of the well-marked turnoff for Forest Road 245. After a quarter-mile, we turn right onto Forest Road 9008L, a logging road, and creep slowly along the rocky, rut- ted road, which is not much wider than a hiking trail. Here, the forest feels intimate. It crowds the road, which is littered with pine needles and almost completely shaded. An Abert’s squirrel, with its long, tasseled ears, runs across the road ahead of us. After 3 miles, we emerge again onto KEVIN KIBSEY FR 171, turn left and drive the 5 miles tour guide back to where we started, with just Note: Mileages are approximate. continue 0.3 miles to Forest Road 9008L. Turn right enough time to head back to Flagstaff LENGTH: 24.4-mile loop (from Interstate 40) onto FR 9008L and continue 3 miles back to FR 171. Turn left onto FR 171 and continue 5 miles back to the I-40 for a late lunch. DIRECTIONS: From Flagstaff, go west on Interstate 40 frontage road. for 10 miles to Transwestern Road and Bellemont SCENIC VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: A high-clearance, four- DRIVES (Exit 185). Turn right off the freeway, then immediately of Arizona’s wheel-drive vehicle is recommended. The route is Best Back left onto the frontage road, and continue 0.8 miles to 40 Roads ADDITIONAL READING: Forest Road 171. Turn right onto FR 171 and continue closed in winter. For more adventure, pick up a 7 miles to Forest Road 171B, which leads to Lava River INFORMATION: Flagstaff Ranger District, 928-526-0866 copy of our book Scenic Drives, or www.fs.usda.gov/coconino which features 40 of the state’s Cave. Back on FR 171, continue another 2 miles to Forest most beautiful back roads. To Road 193. Turn right onto FR 193 and continue 3 miles Travelers in Arizona can visit www.az511.gov or dial order, visit www.shoparizona to U.S. Route 180. Turn right onto U.S. 180 and continue 511 to get infor­ma­tion on road closures, construc­tion, Edited by Robert Stieve highways.com/books. and Kelly Vaughn Kramer 3.3 miles to Forest Road 247. Turn right onto FR 247 and delays, weather and more.

52 JULY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 53 hike of the month

levels off a little. From there, it moves Although Humphreys Peak gets most of the attention in up and down through the ancient forest, and after about 15 minutes, it climbs to the San Francisco Peaks, the Kachina Trail offers a quiet Kachina Trail a ridge on the edge of a grassy hillside. alternative that’s every bit as beautiful. BY ROBERT STIEVE More ferns and more lupines add texture and color. Below the ridge, the trail transitions eak-baggers love the mountains giant ferns and groves of quaking aspens. clusters of wildflowers and the bracken from the old-growth thickets above to around Flagstaff — they’re home From the trailhead, which is located ferns. Whatever your reference point for an open area of mostly meadows and P to the highest point in the state, a few hundred feet from where the big ferns might be, the ferns that carpet ponderosas. Aspens are part of the mix, as well as a few other notable summits. peak-baggers will be congregating to the floor of this wilderness will likely too. They’re the common denominators For hikers looking for an easier alterna- hike Humphreys Peak, the Kachina Trail shatter your scale. Some are more than of this hike. tive in the same area, there’s the Kachina immediately dips into the woods and 6 feet tall. And they’re at least as wide. For the next 30 minutes, the trail Trail, which forgoes the lofty summits in begins a moderate descent. The big trees After 15 minutes of falling in love skirts the southern edge of the grassy favor of an old-growth forest that shelters make a big impression in the early stages, with the woods, you’ll enter the Kachina slope. It’s a good place to see elk. If you ancient limber pines, massive Douglas firs, and so do the scattered boulders, the Peaks Wilderness. The official bound- don’t see any, you might hear a few. The ary doesn’t change the nature of things, bugling of the bulls is a familiar sound but you might start seeing an occasional during mating season. tree across the trail. Nevertheless, the Ninety minutes into the hike, the trail Kachina is in excellent shape. So, instead leaves the woods and spills into an open of looking around for the trail, you can grassland. Look left, take a photo of the look around for bears, porcupines and peaks and continue downhill. Before DERMOTT

pumas. Although you probably won’t long, the ubiquitous aspens will begin C see a puma, they’ll be out there hunting dotting the landscape, along with a few

the slopes for elk and mule deer. They’re spruce and more giant ferns. Then, you’ll SHANE M hungriest at twilight. slip back into the woods, pass a tremen- Just beyond the wilderness boundary, dous ponderosa and arrive at the eastern look at the peaks to the north, and with you’ll arrive at a grassy opening sur- border of the wilderness area, which enough glass, you might even see a few ADDITIONAL READING: rounded by aspens. A few strides later, butts up against Freidlein Prairie Road. peak-baggers clawing their way to the For more hikes, pick up a copy of you’ll encounter one of the biggest Doug- Turn left and follow the narrow dirt road top. You’ll respect them, but you won’t Arizona Highways Hiking Guide (#AGHS5), which features 52 las firs in Arizona. And it’s not alone. for about five minutes to its intersection envy them. Other than altitude, the of the state’s best trails — one There are more big trees on this trail than with the Weatherford Trail, the turn- Kachina Trail has more to offer than for each weekend of the year, sorted by seasons. To order, visit almost anywhere else in Arizona. around point for this hike. Humphreys, especially if you appreciate www.shoparizonahighways. From there, the route crosses a few When you get there, you’ll get a good the beauty of quaking aspens. com/books. small side canyons and arrives at the top of a high lava cliff. It’s been ages since the eruption (600,000 years), but there are plenty of remnants. Trees push their way through huge andesite boulders, trail guide and a dramatic, cave-like recess in the LENGTH: 10 miles round-trip lava marks where a bed of looser volcanic DIFFICULTY: Moderate debris eroded away from the denser flow ELEVATION: 9,315 to 8,869 feet layers above. TRAILHEAD GPS: N 35˚19.617', W 111˚42.686' DIRECTIONS: From Flagstaff, go north on U.S. Route 180 As you descend the lava wall, you’ll for 7 miles to Forest Road 516 (Snowbowl Road). Turn wind into another side canyon, the big- right onto FR 516 and continue 6.3 miles to the parking gest of the bunch. Once you climb out, lot on the right. The trailhead is at the far end of the lot. VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None the forest opens up enough to get a good DOGS ALLOWED: Yes look at the summits to the left — the HORSES ALLOWED: Yes, but it’s strenuous for horses. Kachina Trail follows the south-facing USGS MAP: Humphreys Peak slopes of Agassiz and Fremont peaks. The INFORMATION: Flagstaff Ranger District, 928-526-0866 viewpoint marks a spot where the trail or www.fs.usda.gov/coconino LEAVE-NO-TRACE PRINCIPLES: • Plan ahead and be out all of your trash. LEFT: Lupines are among the wildflowers prepared. • Leave what you find. found along the Kachina Trail. • Travel and camp on • Respect wildlife. OPPOSITE PAGE: The trail winds past durable surfaces. • Minimize campfire huge andesite boulders that were formed • Dispose of waste impact. KEVIN KIBSEY PAUL GILL PAUL 600,000 years ago. properly and pack • Be considerate of others.

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