A NEW COLOUR AND THE CREATIVE INTELLIGENCE

A NEW COLOUR is the new ammonia-free permanent colouring Benefits of the line system by Davines, designed and formulated to offer total coverage and perfect lifting. • extraordinarily velvety, intense and multi-faceted colours

A NEW COLOUR is an extremely flexible and complete • with natural anti-oxidants for long-lasting, shiny colours system: it provides full coverage of white hair, it can darken and lighten up to three levels, and it can change reflect with • ammonia free, for an odourless and pleasant application great flexibility. • delicate formulas for smooth and hydrated hair

For A NEW COLOUR we drew inspiration from the insect’s world • complete, simple and flexible system that summarises and enhances nature’s creative skills and, at the same time, offers unequalled colour suggestions.

It is a continuous change, the perfect combination between colours, shapes and lights. In nature, it is carotenoids and melanins that invent this smart riot of colour. Starting from the same ingredients that nature uses for its plays of colours, Davines Research Laboratories have developed an innovative, delicate and nature-inspired hair colour system. Infusing colour into matter, A NEW COLOUR prompts light to take new ways.

A NEW COLOUR translates colour into infinite possibilities becoming ideal for the work of the colourist, who can finally read abstraction and handle pure colour implementing it for personal visions or desires.

1 1 A NEW COLOUR

The new A NEW COLOUR ammonia-free colouring system features three components:

• cream colour • cream base • dedicated activators (5 vol, 10 vol, 20 vol, 30 vol and 40 vol)

To achieve the desired performance, the three components must always be mixed together following the instructions given below. For example, not using the cream base or using activators other than A New Colour Activators will prevent the system from working properly.

2 The A New Colour system also includes A New Colour bleaching powder, which is ammonia-free and lightens up to 7 levels and has to be used with A New Colour Activators.

3 2 PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS AND ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

COLOURING CREAM A NEW COLOUR LIGHTENING BOOSTER (000) A New Colour Colouring cream is ammonia-free and enriched with In cream without ammonia is fragrance-free and with no unpleasant Carotenoids and Melanin, both carrying out an effective anti-free smells, it is extremely easy to mix with colour cream, cream base and radical and antioxidant action. activator. It is formulated like all shades of A New Colour, but does not contain pigments. • Carotenoids are natural pigments very common in vegetables that can influence the warm colours of some animals that eat plants containing PURE COLOUR them. The Carotenoids contained in A New Colour are extracted from The Pure Colour range offers six permanent cream colours (red, yellow, carrots, they carry out a strong antioxidant action and, when combined green, blue, violet, orange) without ammonia, fragrance or unpleasant with the Melanin contained in the colour and the vitamin C contained in odour. They are extremely easy to mix with the Cream Base and A New the cream base, create a mix with distinctive anti-free radical properties. Colour Activator 5 vol. To be used on bleached or lightened hair to provide intense creative colouring or a pastel colour if diluted. • Melanin is a vegetable pigment extracted from date palms with a strong antioxidant and anti-free radical action. It works in synergy with the CREAM BASE Carotenoids contained in the colour and with the Vitamin C contained in A New Colour Cream Base is the key element of Davines’ new the cream base. colouring system. Indeed, it can achieve all the results that are traditionally obtained with ammonia-based colours, but without using ammonia. • Monoethanolamine (MEA) is a liquid substance, soluble in water and easily biodegradable that can create the alkaline environment required to The element characterizing the cream base is Sodium Metasilicate, a open the hair cuticles, favour the release of hydrogen peroxide and catalyse natural alkalinizing agent made up of quartz powder, characterized the polymerisation reaction. In A New Colour, MEA works in synergy by a very high refractive index, which is much higher than that of diamond with sodium metasilicate, which is a natural alkalinising agent and can give hair an extraordinary shine. It is fully biodegradable and is also contained in the A New Colour cream base. known as “soluble glass” because its structure is similar to that of glass, but it is soluble in water. It is used in synergy with the MEA contained in the colour to create the alkaline environment required for the pigment penetration into the hair. It can also remove heavy metals from

4 water, thus carrying out a protective function on the hair structure. Thanks the solubility of pigments and favour their penetration in the hair structure. to the presence of Sodium Metasilicate, MEA can achieve the same performance of ammonia fully respecting the hair structure. BLEACHING POWDER A New Colour Bleaching Powder does not contain ammonium The cream base also contains Vitamin C with its well-known antioxidant persulfates (thus it is ammonia-free), it has very low volatility and properties; it works in synergy with the Carotenoids and Melanin present ensures a controlled lightening process; it also contains a blue pigment in the colour to create a mix with distinctive anti-free radical properties. for an anti-yellow effect. Like the A New Colour cream base, also the powder Vegetable Vaseline is a fully natural active ingredient derived from is enriched with sodium metasilicate. castor oil and carnauba wax. Castor oil carries out softening and protective actions on the hair structure, which were already known in ancient times: it prevents hair breakage and the formation of split ends because it rebalances the amount of lipids in the hair. Carnauba wax has shine-giving and antioxidant properties. Vegetable vaseline adds shine and carries out a moisturizing and conditioning action on hair.

ACTIVATORS A New Colour Activators are creamy emulsions containing 1.5%, 3%, 6%, 9% and 12% hydrogen peroxide (respectively 5 vol, 10 vol, 20 vol, 30 vol and 40 vol): Hydrogen Peroxide is the oxidizing agent that favours the polymerization action that will lead to the desired colour. A New Colour Activators have a particular viscosity studied to facilitate the mixing of the components and to allow the perfect adherence of the colour mix on the hair structure, avoiding any running of the mix. Also activators contain Vitamin C that, together with the Carotenoids and Melanin present in the colour, and the Vitamin C present in the cream base, creates a mix with a distinctive anti-free radical action. Furthermore, emollient substances have been added to increase

5 3 USING PROTECTION PROVIDER AND PRE-COLOUR

Before applying the colour, it is advisable to apply Protection Provider with bare hands on the forehead, around the ears and hairline because it contains film-forming agents that can create a protective film on the skin preventing stains during the colouring process.

Furthermore, to prevent sensitization in sensitive clients, it is advisable to apply Glorifying Pre-colour Treatment directly to the scalp.

6 4 DIAGNOSIS

Before applying A New Colour it is advisable to carry out a thorough colour, especially if white; in this case, one should increase the processing diagnosis of the client’s hair with some important assessments that will ease time and pay special attention to cover the hair with colour perfectly well. the colourist’s task and guarantee full customer satisfaction. • Hair type: hair types vary according to the ethnic group, and this influences the processing times to use. Afro hair, for example, has a weak structure and is prone to fade easily, therefore the same processing times • Desired colour: thanks to the valuable support of the colour chart, used for Caucasian hair apply, whereas Asian hair is more resistant and choose the colour shade or combination of shades to meet the client’s requests. difficult to treat therefore it needs longer processing times. • Natural level: it is important to accurately assess the natural level as the difference between the starting level and the final one is crucial to choose the volumes to be used. • Residual pigments: when lightening hair, at the same time hair is 5 coloured and the natural hair melanins get lighter. The residual pigments SKIN SENSITIVITY TEST are the melanins that are still present in the hair after lightening and their composition varies according to the hair type and level of lightening achieved (see fig. on page 21). The residual pigments will influence the It is always advisable to carry out a skin sensitivity test 48 hours before final result. applying the colour, as described in the leaflet inside every box of A New • Cosmetic pigments: they are the pigments from previous cosmetic colours. Colour, to avoid any allergic reactions. • Percentage of white hair: it is necessary to assess the presence of white hair, as well as their distribution or presence only in specific areas. Assessing the right percentage determines the choice of the correct activator. • Hair condition: damaged hair, for example, is porous and thus absorbs colour more easily, but fades equally easily. This is why a specific post-colour treatment is recommended. • Scalp: always check if irritation or reddening are present. • Porosity and structure: it is important to distinguish fine, medium or thick hair, and also assess its porosity because - as previously mentioned - this can greatly influence pigment absorption. Fine hair is the easiest to colour, whereas thick and resilient hair is very difficult to

7 6 HOW TO USE THE COLOUR

HOW TO USE It is important to remember that the choice of the activator Mix the colour, the cream base and A New Colour activator according to depends on the desired result: the results you wish to achieve. • All A New Colour nuances can be mixed together to create

endless colour possibilities. Activator % H2O2 Expected result

It is advisable to apply A New Colour on dry and non-shampooed hair. 10 vol 3% refreshing length and ends COVERAGE, LIGHTENING UP TO THREE LEVEL, DARKENING AND CHANGE OF REFLECT 20 vol 6% coverage, darkening, change of reflect

20 vol 6% level of lightening Mixing 1 1 2 ratio 30 vol 9% up to 2 levels of lightening

colour cream base Activator 40 vol 12% up to 3 levels of lightening

Example of 30g 30g 60g Mixture • A NEW COLOUR allows you to achieve the desired results also in case of high percentages of white hair: for example, a 4,0 Processing applied to 100% white hair leads to a 4,0. 35 minutes* time Example: 100% white hair, desired colour 4,0, you need to apply: 30g A New Colour 4,0 + 30g cream base + 60g activator 20 vol for *Standard processing time. Processing times are indicative and can be extended according 35 minutes’ processing time. to the type of hair treated and the indications given in chapter 4.

8 COVERAGE OF PARTICULARLY RESISTANT HAIR loss of reflect intensity), after 25 minutes from the application of the A New Colour Natural Intense nuances provide a more intense colour to the root area, prepare a new mixture using activator white hair coverage and are particularly useful in cases of 10 vol and apply it to lengths and ends for 10 minutes. Overall resistant white hair. For optimum results, it is recommended processing time: 35 minutes. to use Natural Intense nuances only when more 50% of white hair is present and with 20 volume Activator. If the lengths and ends have a high fading (more than 2 levels and total loss of reflect intensity), after having applied the colour to the root area, prepare the mixture again and apply it evenly to lengths FIRST APPLICATION - VIRGIN HAIR and ends for a processing time of 15 to 35 minutes, (according to the • Prepare the desired amount of mix weighing colour, cream base and fading) during the standard processing time. activator following the mixing ratios given. • Apply to lengths and ends. Processing time: 15 minutes. Without removing the colour, prepare a new mixture and apply it to the HEAT SOURCE root. Processing time: 35 minutes. The processing times of A New Colour is reduced by 10-15 minutes We suggest using the same volume of activator both for the root area and for lengths and ends. if a heat source is used. It is advisable to use a source of moist heat for frizzy and thick hair and a source of dry heat for all other hair types. REGROWTH APPLICATION • Prepare the desired amount of mix weighing colour, cream base and activator following the mixing ratios given according to the desired result. RINSING • Apply the mixture to the root area. Processing time 35 minutes. At the end of the processing time, add some water to the colour, rinse thoroughly and shampoo with the most appropriate product. If the lengths and ends have a minimum fading (up to half a level and partial loss of the reflect intensity), after a standard processing time, add a bit of water and rub the colour into lengths and ends at the shampoo basin for 5 minutes.

If the lengths and ends have a medium fading (up to one level and partial

9 7 HOW TO USE THE BOOSTER 000

STANDARD USE It is not advised the use of A New Colour Booster 000 when more than 50% Prepare the mixture, weighing the colour, booster 000, base cream and white hair is present. A New Colour Booster 000 when mixed with A New activator according to the mixing ratios indicated below: colour shades, cannot be used with A New Colour Activator 10 and 20 vol.

Mixing ratio 0.5 0.5 1 2 FIRST APPLICATION - VIRGIN HAIR • Prepare the desired amount of mix weighing colour, booster 000, cream colour booster 000 cream base activator 30 o base and activator following the mixing ratios given. 15 g 15 g 30 g 40 vol 60 g • Apply to lengths and ends. Processing time: 15 minutes. Without removing the colour, prepare a new mixture and apply it to the root area. Processing Example time: 35 minutes. of mixture We suggest using a higher volume of Activator for lengths and ends compared to the one used on the root area, as the hair structure is more resistant and does not benefit from the + + + scalp warmth.

Processing time 35 minutes* REGROWTH APPLICATION *Processing times are indicative and can be extended in case of thick hair that is difficult • Prepare the desired amount of mix weighing colour, booster 000, cream to treat. base and activator following the mixing ratios given according to the desired result. In the case of resistant hair: • Apply the mixture to the root. Processing time 35 minutes. • with A New Colour Activator 30 vol you can achieve up to 2 levels of lightening. • with A New Colour Activator 40 vol you can achieve up to 3 levels of lightening. In case of fine hair or natural base above 5: • with A New Colour Activator 40 vol you can get up to an 1,5 levels of extra lightening (up to 4,5 levels).

10 8 HOW TO USE PURE COLOUR

CREATIVE USES INTENSE AND VIBRANT TONES A New Colour Booster 000 does not create bands in the case of previously Prepare the mixture by weighting the Pure Colour desired nuance, the cream coloured hair and can be used to avoid the darkening of lengths and ends in base and activator 5 vol, following the instruction given in the table below: the case of particularly porous hair. For a gentle colour cleansing action in the case of colour overload, in targeted areas or as a full-head application, the Booster can be used following the instructions given in the table below: Mixing ratio 1 1 2

pure colour cream base activator 5 vol Mixing ratio 1 1 2 30 g 30 g 60 g

booster 000 cream base activator Example 30 g 30 g 20 o 30 vol 60 g of mixture Example + of mixture + + + Processing time up to 35 minutes

Processing time 35 minutes

Using the activator 20 vol you can achieve approximately one level of lightening, and with 30 vol about two levels. Lightening depends on the hair structure and the cosmetic colour present on the hair.

11 PASTEL TONES CREATIVE PURE COLOUR MIXING Pure Colour can be diluted according to the following indications in order The six Pure Colour can be used pure or mixed each other, following the to obtain softer pastel tones. instruction below in order to obtain even more creative colour results. The following dilution are suggested: 10 g Pure Colour Blue + 10 g Pure Colour Yellow + 20 g Cream Base + 40 g Activator 5 vol (1+1+2) Mixing ratio 0.5 1 2 1 g Pure Colour Blue + 1 g Pure Colour Violet + 20 g Example of pure colour cream base activator 5 vol Cream Base + 40 g Activator 5 vol (0.1+1+2) mixture 15 g 30 g 60 g 10 g Pure Colour Red + 10 g Pure Colour Orange + 20 g Cream Base + 40 g Activator 5 vol (1+1+2) Mixing ratio 0.1 1 2 1 g Pure Colour Violet + 1 g Pure Colour Red +20 g Cream Example of pure colour cream base activator 5 vol Base + 40 g Activator 5 vol 5 g Pure Colour Blue + mixture 3 g 30 g 60 g (0.1+1+2) 5 g Pure Colour Violet + 20 g Cream Base + 1 g Pure Colour Blue + 40 g Activator 5 vol 1 g Pure Colour Violet (0.5+1+2) + 1 g Pure Colour Red + 20 g Cream Base + 40 g Activator 5 vol (0.15+1+2) 2 g Pure Colour Orange + 1 g + + Pure Colour Yellow + 20 g Cream Base + 40 g Activator 5 vol (0.15+1+2) Processing time up to 35 minutes

The duration of Pure Colour can vary according to the hair condition. Also, the more diluted the colour mixture is the quicker 1 g Pure Colour Red + 1 g Pure Colour 15 g Pure Colour Yellow + 7.5 g Pure Blue + 20 g Cream Base + 40 g Colour Blue +15 g Cream Base + 30g will be the fading of the colour. Activator 5 vol (0.1+1+2) Activator 5 vol (1.5+1+2)

12 9 10 HOW TO USE THE BLEACHING POWDER ALTERNATIVE USE OF A NEW COLOUR

A New Colour bleaching powder is recommended for all lightening ALTERNATIVE USE and highlight techniques. For partial lightening techniques (such as highlights or meches) or gentle It is advisable to apply A New Colour bleaching powder to dry and non- lightening, the mixture can be prepared by weighing A New Colour bleaching shampooed hair. powder, cream base and activator 20 vol, following the instructions given in the table below:

• Prepare the mix following the recommended mixing ratios that can vary from 1:2 to 1:3 (powder: activator) according to the texture you wish to Mixing ratio 1 1 2 obtain. Only use A New Colour Activators 5 vol, 10 vol, 20 vol or 30 vol to obtain the texture required for the mix. bleaching powder cream base activator 20 vol 30 g 30 g 60 g A controlled lightening action depends on the choice of the activators to be used: Example of mixture Activator Expected result

5 vol up to 2 levels of lightening + +

10 vol up to 3 levels of lightening Processing time 35 minutes*

20 vol up to 5 levels of lightening *Processing times are indicative and may change according to the degree of lightening 30 vol up to 7 levels of lightening you wish to achieve.

40 vol use not recommended

The processing time depends on the degree of lightening you wish to achieve: check regularly up to 40 minutes. The use of heat sources is not recommended.

13 11 POST-COLOUR TREATMENT

Post-treatment is important to restore the hair’s acid pH. Davines offers a wide range of products for post-colour treatment with Nounou and Alchemic lines.

• NOUNOU offers a complete range of products for treated and coloured hair, without pigments and enriched with mediterranean ingredients for healthy hair.

• ALCHEMIC is a specific line to both treat and maintain colour; it consists of SHAMPOOS and CONDITIONERS enriched with direct pigments and active ingredients for a longer lasting colour between colour services.

For further information on our products and how to apply them, please refer to their information leaflets or our website www.davines.com

14 FAQ’s

15 FAQ’s

What’s new about your colour? It is also a water-soluble substance and therefore rapidly biodegradable, The cream base is the innovative element of A New Colour. It renders the and exists in nature where it performs an important biological function. system extremely flexible and practical, able to satisfy all market demands, In A New Colour, the MEA is used both to create the alkaline environment namely perfect coverage of white hair, lightening up to three levels, darkening necessary to open the cuticles, and also to help free hydrogen peroxide and and changing reflect. catalyze the polymerization.

How come this system features three elements instead of the Why does A New Colour work with a system of dedicated Activators? usual two? A New Colour Activators are characterized by a higher viscosity with respect With respect to traditional systems, A New Colour has been enriched with to a traditional activator; the viscosity has been designed to aid the mixing cream base, a key component containing metasilicate which acts in synergy of the three components and to allow the mixture obtained to adhere with monoethanolamine (MEA) to produce results previously unthinkable perfectly to the structure of the hair: for this reason, no other activator can for an ammonia-free formula that fully respects the hair structure. be used with A New Colour. The cream base has also been enriched with castor oil, used since antiquity In fact, using a different activator would make the mixture too liquid to polish the hair and restructure it, and carnauba wax, with its remarkable preventing it from adhering perfectly to the hair structure, and the desired moisturizing and conditioning power. colour result would be impossible to achieve. The three-component system offers a remarkable advantage in terms of In the same way, we advise against using other activators containing a ample uses. It has been possible to perfectly calibrate the mix between the thickener, since the results would be unpredictable. various active ingredients contained in the system to achieve exceptional performances in all use situations and with all hair types: perfect coverage of Is there a correct order to follow for the mixing of the various white hair, lightening of up to three levels, darkening and change of reflect. components? There is no particular order, however we suggest first weighing out the What happens if the cream base is not used together with the colour, then adding the cream base and, last of all, the activator. New Colour activator and colour cream? A New Colour is a system with three components that must always be used On average, how many applications can be made with one tube together. If the cream base is not used, it is not possible to obtain the desired of A New Colour? colour. The cream base is actually indispensable to achieve lightening or the With one tube of A New Colour it is possible to make two applications of coverage of white hair while totally respecting the desired shade. colour on average. A standard application would use 30g colour, 30g cream base and 60g activator. Why doesn’t A New Colour release any unpleasant smells? A New Colour does not release unpleasant smells because we have used Is it possible to mix two or more shades together? monoethanolamine (MEA) as an alkalizing agent instead of ammonia. Certainly, all the shades can be mixed together to create infinite chromatic This is a liquid that is able to open the hair cuticles to allow the pigments possibilities. penetration. Since it is not volatile, it does not release any particular smell.

16 FAQ’s

Is it a good idea to carry out a skin sensitivity test? Can I use Restructuring Miracle before A New Colour? It is always advisable to carry out a skin sensitivity test 48 hours before Sure, it is possible to apply Restructuring Miracle on the same day of a applying colour, as described in the explanatory leaflet inside every box of colour service following the indications given in Naturaltech technical dossier. A New Colour, to avoid any allergic reactions occurring. Why has A New Colour Booster 000 been developed? Can I avoid allergic reactions by using A New Colour? A New Colour Booster 000 has been formulated to support the lightening Allergies are real pathologies, quite independent of the product applied. of particularly difficult hair and thus to achieve the desired target lightening Therefore, we cannot state that using A New Colour all allergic reactions are (up to 3 levels), but it is also a valuable support to achieve up to four and a prevented, even though it is a colouring system that is particularly delicate half levels of lightening, using 40 vol , in the case of normal hair. both for the scalp and the hair. In any case, also to avoid sensitization, it is a good idea to carry out a skin sensitivity test 48 hours before applying the Does the reflect lose intensity when using A New Colour Booster colour, as recommended in the explanatory leaflet. 000 to lighten the hair? No, the reflect intensity remains the same also when the booster is used How should I apply A New Colour? for lightening hair, thanks to the presence of the hair’s natural melanins. A New Colour should be applied to dry hair, if possible unwashed, so that the cutaneous hydrolipidic film offers the scalp maximum protection. Why is the use of A New Colour Booster 000 not recommended in the case of a percentage of white hair above 50%? If A New Colour Booster 000 is used with high percentages of white hair, Is it possible to use A New Colour immediately after a perm or it may affect the coverage. straightening session? It is also important to remember that A New Colour Booster 000, if mixed No, A New Colour, like all permanent colouring systems, cannot be used with A New Colour shades, can only be used with 30 vol and 40 vol activators. after straightening or a perm. We advise waiting for 48 hours after colouring before carrying out straightening or a perm. Whenever a straightening or Which is the Pure Colour’s function? perm has been carried out, it is advisable to wait for 15 days to be able to Pure Colour has been developed to achieve, both on bleached and on proceed with the permanent colouring. lightened hair, intense as well as pastel tones. Pure Colour range offers six permanent colours (red, yellow, green, blue, violet and orange) and can Is it possible to use A New Colour under heat sources? satisfy even the request of the most creative stylists. A New Colour can indeed be used under heat sources, which shortens the processing times by 10-15 minutes. We recommend using a hot damp heat Can I use Pure Colour as intensifiers? source in the case of thick hair and a dry heat source for all other types The Pure Colour range was not created to be used as intensifiers and, if of hair. mixed with A New Colour shades, does not offer any visible result.

17 FAQ’s

Does Pure Colour fade? What’s the difference between A New Colour and Finest Pigments? Pure Colour fades slightly but the chromatic result does not vary: the The main difference lies in the fact that A New Colour is a permanent duration can vary according to hair condition. In addition, the more diluted colouring system and is able to cover white hair, darken, lighten up to three the colour mix is, the quicker the shades will fade. levels and change reflects. Instead, Finest Pigments is a direct colouring system, and does not need a Does A New Colour need specific training? developer; it gives a uniform colour that fades after 8-10 shampoos and is A New Colour needs specific training just like any new colouring system, limited to disguising white hair. Both systems are ammonia-free. but it is not at all complicated, in fact we can say that in many ways it is similar to using Mask. Do I have to use specific products for home treatment? However, always remember that with A New Colour, you don’t need to drop Hair coloured with A New Colour should be treated like all coloured hair: a level, as with Mask, to cover white hair, as indicated in the technical dossier. Davines offers the Alchemic line, which contains pigments able to enhance cosmetic colour, and the Nounou line, without pigments, which preserves Is A New Colour able to leave the hair soft and conditioned like the structure of the hair. Mask? Certainly, A New Colour leaves the hair exceptionally soft, thanks to the Can I sell A New Colour as a home service for my clients? castor oil and carnauba wax contained in the cream base. No, A New Colour is a product for professional use only.

Is it possible to mix Mask shades with the shades of A New Colour? No, it is not possible to mix Mask shades with those of A New Colour, since they are two different systems, with processing times, mixing proportion/ mixing ratio and formulas which are very different and need to be respected.

Can I use Activation Source with A New Colour shades? No, it is not possible, since Activation Source has a low viscosity and the mixture would not adhere perfectly to the structure of the hair, and therefore would not be able to colour it.

Can I use the Cream Base with Mask? This is not possible since the Mask formulas have not been calibrated to work with the cream base and, if it were used, both the coverage of white hair and the lightening effect would be lost.

18 TECHICAL APPENDIX

19 12 MELANINS

The natural colour of hair depends on the quality, quantity and blue red distribution of the melanins it contains. The production and distribution of melanin changes with time and it depends on an 1 individual’s genetic makeup and physiological characteristics. It also changes with age and in white hair, it is totally absent. 2 3 In nature, there are some types of melanins characterised by different reflects, 4 and it is their varying proportion that defines the natural colour of hair. When combined in equal quantities, primary colours theoretically give rise 5 to black. In reality, what is obtained in nature is never black, but a shade 6 of extremely dark grey that looks like black, because pigments, including melanins, lack a chemical structure allowing them to fully absorb light. 7 Therefore, if hair has yellow, red and blue melanins in equal proportions, 8 it would look grey. In nature, hair colours do not vary on shades of grey, but rather of brown because the various types of melanins are present in 9 different proportions. 10

The chart below shows the likely distribution of melanins in the various yellow levels. The term “level” refers to the intensity of the basic tone, as we will see later, i.e. how light or dark is the hair’s natural colour on a scale from 1 to 10. Blue and red tend to be predominant over yellow at lower levels, which is shown by the widest part of the triangles that corresponds to the level number, whereas yellow prevails in lighter levels.

20 The chart below shows instead the variation of the main reflect, i.e. 100% blue the prevailing component amongst the types of melanins in the various 1 levels, and its change following lightening, with the residual melanins 2 70% blue 30% violet highlighted. 3 100% violet For instance, if we analyse level 2, we will notice a prevalence of blue 4 70% violet 30% red and violet. If we lighten level 2 hair by three tones, we will reach level 5, where the prevailing component is red, which will have to be taken 5 100% red into account since it affects the final result. For example, if you want to achieve a cold colour, you will need to use a nuance with a higher 6 70% red 30% orange percentage of green (ash) to counteract the red resulting from lightening. levelnatural 7 100% orange 8 70% orange 30% yellow When carrying out a bleaching or an oxidation colour that 9 100% yellow leads to lightening, it is important to bear in mind that it is impossible to lift hair up to white because feomelanin, i.e. 10 70% yellow the yellow melanin, is always present.

In general, you should always take the contribution of residual melanins into account since it changes in terms of composition and amount according to the starting level and the lightening achieved.

21 13 BASIC PRINCIPLES OF COLOURING

The pigments used in oxidation colours are complex substances, chemically During the colour service, the oxygen released by the hydrogen peroxide different and colourless. To create a colour, they need to bind and form a contained in the activator carries out three functions: bigger molecule in a process known as polymerization, which is triggered by the oxygen released by the oxygen peroxide used during the colouring • it OXIDISES the pigments to produce the final colouring substances process. This is why it is also called oxidation reaction. (polymerization reaction).

• it LIGHTENS natural melanin. The lightening power is closely related to the volume (or concentration) of the hydrogen peroxide used.

• it BALANCES the pigment concentration and the optimal pH for the polymerization colouring mix.

Thanks to all these actions, hydrogen peroxide is the starting point of the whole hair colouring process.

Please note that only the bigger pigments can colour hair; because of their large dimensions, they get trapped in the hair thus making colour permanent.

Hydrogen peroxide is an acid substance made up of two atoms of

hydrogen and two atoms of oxygen. Its molecule (H2O2) is highly unstable

and spontaneously releases oxygen thus turning into a water molecule (H2O). Free oxygen is very active and tends to easily bond with other substances, giving rise to reactions known as oxidations.

22 The concentration (or titration) of hydrogen peroxide is usually expressed Along with pigments and hydrogen peroxide, oxidization colouring requires an in “volumes”: e.g. 20 volumes correspond to 6% of H2O2. alkalizing agent to open the hair cuticles and enable pigment penetration.

The right volume is chosen according to the desired result: The alkalizing agent normally used in “traditional” oxidation colourings is ammonia that tends to be replaced, in more recent Expected result colouring systems, by Monoethanolamine (MEA). Expected result Activator % H O with bleaching This is a liquid substance, soluble in water and easily biodegradable. 2 2 with colour powder Since it is not volatile, it does not release any particular smell. only with Pure Colour up to 2 levels 5 vol 1.5% for intense or pastel of lifting tones MEA is a substance that exists in nature, including in the human body where it carries out important biological functions. refreshing lengths and up to 3 levels 10 vol 3% ends of lifting

coverage 20 vol 6% darkening change of reflect up to 5 levels of lifting 20 vol 6% 1 level of lightening

up to 2 levels up to 7 levels 30 vol 9% of lightening of lifting

up to 3 levels 40 vol 12% not recommended of lightening

23 Notes

24