Jasper National Park

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Jasper National Park Jasper Cover: Maligne Lake Ice bridge on Athabasca Glacier Rocky Mountain sheep A park naturalist explains the wonders of nature Introducing a park and an idea Some of the more common shrubs in the park are wild Canada covers half a continent, fronts on three oceans rose, buffalo berry, willow, alder, juniper, shrubby cinque- and stretches from the extreme Arctic more than halfway foil, silverberry, saskatoon berry, Labrador tea, red osier National Park dogwood and bearberry. to the equator. There is a great variety of landforms in this immense country, and Canada's national parks have been created to preserve important examples for you and The animals: each seeks its own habitat for generations to come. Animals, like plantlife, depend on suitable environment The National Parks Act of 1930 specifies that national for their survival. The mountain goat, marmot and pika parks are "dedicated to the people . for their benefit, usually inhabit the higher regions. Mountain sheep and education and enjoyment" and must remain "unimpaired elk are seen on the lower slopes, while the moose, mule for the enjoyment of future generations." deer, beaver and muskrat stay near the valley bottom. Jasper National Park, 4,200 square miles in area and In winter, animals which do not hibernate move to one of the largest parks on the North American continent, snow-free slopes or into the valleys, where food is more Alberta is notable for its magnificent mountain scenery and unique plentiful. natural wonders - relics of the Ice Age. Other mammals, such as the lynx, coyote, porcupine, The park is situated some 235 miles west of Edmonton black and grizzly bear, wolverine, marten and badger also and 258 miles northwest of Calgary. It extends along the live in places suited to their needs. The shy Columbian eastern slope of the Canadian Rockies in the western part and golden-mantled ground squirrel are abundant. of the province of Alberta, with Banff National Park join­ Bird life in the mountains is not plentiful, either in ing its boundary to the south and Mount Robson provin­ species or numbers. About 200 species have been identified cial park in British Columbia adjoining it to the west. in the park. The white-tailed ptarmigan, pipit and eagle live at high The park environment altitudes; thrushes, ducks and geese at low elevations. The Each national park has its own character, its unique story gray or Canada jay, Clarke's nutcracker and the magpie as a living outdoor museum. Jasper is the story of an roam everywhere, unafraid of human visitors. extreme landscape dominated by ice-capped mountains and great valleys. To survive, all living things have A brief history of the park adapted to the extreme and variable conditions of topog­ Perhaps no part of the Canadian Rockies provides a more raphy and climate that are characteristic of the park. system occupied by the Athabasca and Sunwapta rivers. the lakes. These suspended particles give the lakes their pared to the sequence of plants one would find on a trip fascinating chapter in the pages of western Canada's his­ These wide, U-shaped valleys are the result of glacial unusual and beautiful turquoise colour, which changes in to the north pole. In both cases, local climate determines tory than the area now occupied by Jasper National Park. The land: mountains and glaciers erosion during the Ice Age. Remnant glaciers can still tone and intensity as the sunlight strikes them at different which plants can grow in a certain zone. Plants charac­ The early days of the area are recorded in the diaries There is a pattern in the varied shapes of Jasper's moun­ be seen high on the peaks. When the Ice Age ended, only angles. teristic of both the prairies and the mountains grow side and reports of the explorers, fur traders, missionaries, tains. The main peaks appear as chains in a north-south such high, cold places could maintain glacier ice, and the A prime example of water erosion is Maligne Canyon. by side in great profusion throughout the park, while prospectors, engineers, scientists, botanists, geographers direction. Within each chain, or range, the peaks are Athabasca Glacier exists today mainly because of these This great gash, almost 200 feet deep with nearly vertical arctic species are found at the higher altitudes. and other pioneers who used the famous Athabasca Trail, closely related in age and structure. climatic conditions. The highway passes within one mile walls less than 10 feet apart in some places, has been cut The valleys are heavily forested with conifers. The main the green valleys and the rugged mountain passes before The Jasper-Banlf Highway follows the Athabasca River of the Athabasca Glacier and an access road provides through Palaeozoic limestone during centuries of cease­ forest cover is lodgepole pine and white spruce. On some the park itself was established in 1907. from Jasper townsite to Sunwapta Falls, over the Sun- a close and uninterrupted view of this great ice mass. less wear by a small stream of running water. low, dry slopes Douglas fir grows, and in the river valley In 1810-11 David Thompson, pioneer explorer of wapta Pass and into Banff National Park. On either side The great Columbia Icefield. 150 square miles in area North of Jasper townsite, the "front ranges" are rep­ bottom trembling aspen and a few balsam poplar can Canada's West, discovered the Athabasca Pass and a of the highway from Jasper townsite to Lake Louise one and the largest sheet of glacial ice on the North American resented by the Bosche, Jacques and De Smet Ranges be found. practical fur trade route to the Pacific coast. Over the sees a panorama of unbroken but ever changing moun­ continent outside the Arctic Circle, is shared by Jasper while the "main ranges" are represented by the Victoria The intermediate slopes support a coniferous forest of years rivalry for the fur trade between the Hudson's Bay tain ranges. To the east are the so-called "front ranges". and Banff National Parks. Cross Range. lodgepole pine and white spruce at lower levels, grading and Northwest Companies stimulated the use of this route, Much younger than the mountains to the west of the Much of this icefield is above 8,500 feet in elevation and The Jasper-Edmonton Highway corridor presents a very into alpine fir, Engelmann's spruce and white-bark pine known as "La Grande Traverse". highway, the front ranges were upended about 20 million some peaks rise above 10,000 feet. From this region many different view of these mountain ranges, and from Jasper near timberline. Travellers on foot or by horse pack train came to know years ago and are today wildly tilted, their rock layers glacial tongues reach down into the valleys of both parks. townsite to the park entrance this road cuts through the Above timberline, at an altitude of about 7,000 feet, the broad valley of the Athabasca River en route to the sometimes standing completely on end, or folded back Where meltwaters from the glaciers pour into the flat mountain chains. In the resultant panorama, dominated by the alpine zone is devoid of trees and closely resembles boat encampment at the junction of the Canoe and Colum­ on themselves. The Endless Chain Ridge, which extends valleys of Jasper, beautiful blue-green lakes have formed, fault block mountains (mountains whose strata have be­ Canadian arctic regions. Here the growing season is short, bia Rivers, from where they travelled via the Columbia for approximately 10 miles from Poboktan Creek to many of them dammed by moraines or debris deposited come exposed by a fracture in the rock formation), rocks cold and unpredictable. Deep snow drifts last until late River and southwestern overland routes to the Oregon Beauty Creek, is an excellent example of this. by glaciers. Crevasses, cascades of meltwaters, and inter­ of various epochs can be seen. summer and frost may occur at almost any time. In spite coast. Among these travellers was Jasper Hawes, a Mis­ To the west lie the "main ranges", formed out of the esting channels in the ice, rock tables and other glacial of this, small alpine and arctic plants, unusually bright in souri trapper and employee of the Northwest Company, flat-lying sedimentary rocks and laid down about 100 features can be seen at Angel Glacier, on the flank of The plants: alpine and subalpine colour, grow in great profusion around and above timber- who took charge of the first trading post at the outlet of million years ago. Here are some of the most famous Mount Edith Cavell, while the great moraines at Atha­ Plant life in Jasper National Park reflects the wide range line throughout the summer, including the red and pink Brule Lake. He soon moved the post upstream to the out­ mountains east of the Continental Divide, including the basca and Angel glaciers are impressive evidence of the of local climatic zones found at different altitudes in any mountain-heath, white mountain heather, forget-me-not, let of Jasper Lake where it became known as "Jasper's castle-like Mount Robson and the Ramparts. power of glacial erosion. Silt particles, crushed from rock mountainous area. The succession of plant communities mountain rhododendron, arctic harebell, one-flowered House". At the turn of the century several names for the Between these great ranges stretches a vast valley by the moving glaciers, are carried by the meltwaters into encountered when climbing in the mountains can be com­ wintergreen, mosscampion and northern gentian. new national park were suggested and Jasper was chosen.
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