A Sussex Miscellany, a Refreshing Schott of Sussex for Readers Who Love Local Trivia
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ASUSSEXMISCELLANY ASUSSEXGUIDE ASUSSEXGUIDE SOPHIECOLLINS This may look like a slim volume, but it is in fact a ASUSSEXMISCELLANY powerful pocket encyclopaedia that cunningly mixes ASUSSEX facts, figures and statistics with anecdotes, stories, Sophie Collins is a writer,editor and exile from folklore and myth to produce an intriguing treat for Who was the Grey Lady of Pevensey Castle? London, with family ties to Sussex where she Where could you have dined on Pigeons au soleil? wet afternoons and a formidable secret weapon for has lived and worked for the last ten years.A MISCELLANY What (or who) on earth is the Knucker? How the local pub quiz. Why not put in your thumb, and see long-term enthusiast for the odd and the do you make a Sussex trug?Who or what were what delicious Sussex plums you can pull out? irrelevant, she has found Sussex trivia particularly the Hastings Rarities?What’s the pond in Sussex rewarding and that the weirder aspects of the Pond Pudding? How many firework societies are county have well repaid closer study.What other ASUSSEXMISCELLANY there in Lewes? What was the name of the English county could offer over 30 different Bloomsbury marmoset?What was the Guinea terms for mud?Where else would you find such Pig Club? How many men did it take to run the an inviolate and historic pride in sheer pig- Shoreham Oyster Fleet?Who won the Battle of headedness? The fruits of her research have gone Lewes? For answers to these burning questions, into this miscellany. or for a lovely lazy afternoon dipping into an entertainingly quirky mix of local facts, figures, history, statistics and folk tales, turn to A Sussex Miscellany, a refreshing Schott of Sussex for readers who love local trivia. ‘Miscellany:assortment,brew,collection,conglomeration, COLLINS farrago,hodgepodge,jumble,mêlée,mixture,mélange,pasticcio, SOPHIECOLLINS patchwork,pot pourri,salmagundi,variety…’ PETER MARK ROGET SNAKERIVERBOOKS BOOKSABOUTSUSSEXFORTHEENTHUSIAST Snake River Press publishes books about the art, culture, personalities and landscape of Sussex. Snake River books are available by mail order or from bookshops. You can order safely online through our website: www.snakeriverpress.co.uk. If you prefer buying offline you can contact us by telephone: 01273 403988 or by email: [email protected] SNAKERIVERPRESS SNAKERIVERPRESS www.snakeriverpress.co.uk £8.99 SNAKE RIVER PRESS Book No 9 Books about Sussex for the enthusiast Published in 2007 by SNAKE RIVER PRESS South Downs Way,Alfriston, Sussex BN26 5XW www.snakeriverpress.co.uk ISBN 978-1-906022-08-2 This book was conceived, designed and produced by SNAKE RIVER PRESS Copyright © Snake River Press Limited 2007 Text © Sophie Collins All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher. The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all information at the date of preparation. Readers who intend to rely on the information to undertake any activity should check the current accuracy.The publishers and authors accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by the reader as a result of information or advice contained in this book. Art Director & Publisher Peter Bridgewater Editorial Director Viv Croot Editor RobertYarham Page makeup Richard Constable & Chris Morris Consultant Lorraine Harrison This book is typeset in Perpetua & Gill Sans, two fonts designed by Eric Gill Printed and bound in China DEDICATION For Ted,who won’t be druv CONTENTS INTRODUCTION 6 CHAPTER ONE SUSSEX LANDSCAPES 9 CHAPTER TWO MYTHICAL SUSSEX 25 CHAPTER THREE HISTORICAL SUSSEX 41 CHAPTER FOUR SUSSEX SUSTENANCE 57 CHAPTER FIVE SUSSEX PASTIMES 73 FURTHER READING & INDEX 91 A SUSSEX MISCELLANY SUSSEX STATISTICS ‘I love England,especially the English countryside. We had a cottage in Sussex.I love those cottages.’ RICHARD WIDMARK, AMERICAN ACTOR ow long has SUSSEX been Sussex? There was a kingdom of the South Saxons from the fifth century onwards, and a document Hrecorded ‘Sud Seaxe’ – the South Saxons – in 722. By the time THE DOMESDAY BOOK was being written up in 1086, this had become Sudsexe, only a step away from the modern county name. Two coats of arms X WEST SUSSEX’s version is gold on The two parts of the county have had blue, and also has the martlets and the individual coats of arms for centuries. Saxon crown, but is topped with a As early as 1611, the RED SHIELD for crest of oak leaves and acorns.These East Sussex, and the BLUE SHIELD additions were imported from the for West Sussex (both with six golden Surrey coat of arms when parts of that martlets), were in use. county were incorporated into West The martlet is a heraldic bird that Sussex in 1974. Subsequent redraw- is always shown without feet, and is ings of the county boundaries left often equated with the swallow.In the Gatwick Airport as the only remain- Sussex arms, the six martlets repre- ing Surrey takeover within Sussex sent the six ancient ‘rapes’ or boundaries, but the oak leaves remain. sub-divisions of the country, which One rather complicated pedigree existed before the Norman invasion. for the martlets claims that they Today, each Sussex crest has a reflect the power of the lords of golden Saxon crown in its top half, Arundel in Sussex, the French word and a wavy line, symbolic of the for swallow being ‘hirondelle’ which county’s bond with the sea, divides sounds like ‘Arundel’. this from the martlets below. X EAST SUSSEX’s crest is similar to A county divided the banner of the ancient Kingdom of Although West and East Sussex were Sussex in the sixth century. It shows recognised as distinct areas as early as a crown above a wavy bar, with six the twelfth century, and were organ- martlets in the lower half.The colours ised as separate entities by the are gold on red. sixteenth, formal separation did not [ 10 ] SUSSEX STATISTICS come until the 1880s. In 1888, as a Place names part of the Local Government Act, ANGLO-SAXON place names still rule the two parts were formally divided in Sussex. Here are a few of the into two administrations. commonest prefixes and affixes in original form, with examples of the Measuring up places by which they are identified: X WEST SUSSEX is divided into Becc a brook or stream (Bexhill) seven districts: Burh a hill, or citadel 1. Adur, 2. Arun, 3. Chichester, (Burghersh,Pulborough) 4. Crawley, 5. Horsham, 6. Mid- Denu a valley (East Dean,Marden) Sussex, and 7.Worthing. Its county Ea a marsh (Winchelsea,Selsea) town is Chichester. Feld a plain or flat place (Heathfield) X EAST SUSSEX is divided into six Folde a field (Slinfold) districts: Ham a village, an enclosure 1. Brighton and Hove, 2. Eastbourne, (Beddingham) 3. Hastings, 4. Lewes, 5. Rother, and Hou a hill (Piddinghoe) 6.Wealden. Its county town is Lewes. Hurst a wood (Nuthurst) Ig an island (Thorney) X WEST SUSSEX comes out ahead Mersc a marsh (Peasmarsh) (it’s bigger, has a higher population, Stede a station, a place and an extra district), but by only a (East Grinstead) narrow margin. Tun a dwelling, a close (Alfriston) Wic a village, a dwelling place (Terwick) A complete review of English place names was conducted in The Place Names of Sussex, published in 1929/30 for the English Place-name Society. Helena Hall published a short version in her update of the Reverend Parish’s Dictionary of Sussex Dialect, updated in 1957, from which this is a selection. AREA IN SQ KM POPULATION IN 2005 Ranked in England & Wales Ranked in England & Wales X WEST SUSSEX 1,991 30th in size 764,300 27th in size X EAST SUSSEX 1,792 33rd in size 752,900 28th in size [ 11 ] A SUSSEX MISCELLANY MORE STATISTICS The South Downs Way Sussex wildlife THE SOUTH DOWNS WAY, stretch- Sussex is rich in FAUNA and FLORA, ing between Water Lane in Winchester and some plants and insects that are in Hampshire and the west end of the quite easily found there are rare or (in seaside promenade in Eastbourne in formal terms) ‘nationally scarce’ else- East Sussex, is one of the best-known where.The top ten in this category in walkers’ paths in Britain. Measuring the Sussex Rare Species Inventory are: around 100 miles (160km) from one end to the other, it covers the land- • ROUND-HEADED RAMPION scapes of both East and West Sussex in (Phyteuma orbiculare, see p18) all its variety,and covers a large chunk • FROGBIT of Hampshire for good measure. Its (Hydrocharis morus-ranae, highest point is DITCHLING BEACON, waterplant, also known at 814ft (248m), and it passes near to as waterpoppy) most of the county’s most scenic spots • ADONIS BLUE and interesting towns. (Lysandra bellargus, butterfly) • LONG-WINGED CONEHEAD (Conocephalus discolor, cricket) UNUSUAL HERITAGE • DOOR SNAIL (Macrogastra rolphii) Something that has shaped the history of • HAIRY DRAGONFLY Sussex and many of her great estates is (Brachytron pratense) the unusual inheritance practice of • RUDDY DARTER BOROUGH ENGLISH.Technically (Sympetrum sanguineum, known as ultimogeniture,this means that dragonfly) the youngest surviving son of a family • VARIABLE DAMSELFLY inherits its estate – the opposite of the far (Coenagrion pulchellum) more common state of primogeniture. • WHITE-LEGGED DAMSELFLY This has been a marked custom from (Platycnemis pennipes) medieval times. It is not unique to • DOWNY EMERALD Sussex (parts of Middlesex,Suffolk and (Cordulea aenea, dragonfly) Surrey also use it),but it is unusual in Britain overall. $ [ 12 ] MORE STATISTICS Saxon Sussex DATE OF REIGN ...King, bretwalda Even career historians have problems or ealdorman sorting out the early rule of Sussex.