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Sergio Luque Ortiz. Tesis Doctoral

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Sergio Luque Ortiz. Tesis Doctoral 1 UNIVERSIDAD DE SEVILLA FACULTAD DE COMUNICACIÓN DEPARTAMENTO DE PERIODISMO II La relación existente entre la sociología del consumo y el mensaje periodístico especializado de las revistas de moda. Un caso práctico: Telva, Elle España y Vogue España. MEMORIA PARA OPTAR AL GRADO DE DOCTOR. TESIS DOCTORAL PRESENTADA POR Sergio Luque Ortiz Directores Concha Pérez Curiel. Universidad de Sevilla. Marco Pedroni. E-Campus Novedrate University, Milán. Sevilla, 2017. “La moda no existe sólo en los vestidos. La moda está en el cielo, en la calle, la moda tiene que ver con las ideas, la forma en que vivimos, lo que está sucediendo.” Coco Chanel AGRADECIMIENTOS Las primeras palabras de agradecimiento son para mis tres pilares en la vida. El académico está personalizado en Concha Pérez Curiel. Gracias hoy y siempre por embarcarte conmigo en esta locura y por ver un SÍ donde algunos vieron un NO. Además de directora has sido y serás una fiel amiga, siempre dispuesta y atenta a todo lo que pueda necesitar. Mi mamma del cuore. Por todo ello, mil gracias. El pilar emocional representado en Ulises. Gracias por tu infinita paciencia y por cada palabra de ánimo, aliento y esperanza dónde yo solo veía desesperación. Vivir juntos este proceso que ha durado 4 años ha sido el mejor regalo que la vida ha podido darme y por eso firmaría por más tesis o por todo lo que tenga que venir pero a tu lado. Gracias también a la persona que me dio la vida y que tantas veces ha mostrado interés y preocupación en esta tesis doctoral sin saber muy bien de qué va todo esto: mí madre. Desde el principio me apoyaste en esta aventura que empezó hace 10 años y que llevaba por nombre Licenciatura en Periodismo, Universidad de Sevilla. No quiero ni debo olvidarme de otros nombres claves en la investigación como son Marco Pedroni y Pedro Mansilla, ambos sociólogos. Gracias a los dos por iluminarme con tantísimo conocimiento y por iniciarme en la sociología. Finalmente quiero agradecer a todas las personas que han colaborado en el curso de la investigación. Redactoras y redactores especializados en moda, lectoras que leen revistas de moda, y por supuesto, a Gema, María, Lourdes, Cristina y Rocío, amigas que hacen las veces de hermanas para los que solo tenemos hermanos. A todos, gracias. ÍNDICE DE CONTENIDOS BLOQUE ESTRUCTURAL 1. INTRODUCCIÓN ............................................................................................................. 1 1.1. La moda a comienzos del siglo XX .................................................................. 5 1.2. La modernidad se hace moda entre 1960 y 1970 .......................................... 9 1.3. Opulencia versus consumo en la década de 1980 y 1990 ............................ 13 1.4. Tecnologías y comunicación 2.0 al servicio de la moda ............................... 17 1.5. Un nuevo concepto vertebrador: Fast fashion ............................................ 22 2. JUSTIFICACIÓN Y ELECCIÓN DEL OBJETO DE ESTUDIO .............................................. 30 2.1. Selección de las revistas objeto de análisis .............................................................. 34 2.1.2. Telva y su relación con la mujer española ................................................. 35 2.1.3. Elle, una apuesta por el feminismo ........................................................... 37 2.1.4. Vogue, una mirada internacional a la moda ............................................. 38 2.2. Justificación del período de tiempo establecido para el análisis ............................. 42 3. METODOLOGÍA ........................................................................................................... 44 3.1. Análisis de contenido en la investigación ..................................................... 48 3.1.1. Tipos de análisis de contenido ....................................................... 55 3.1.2. Procesos y pautas en el análisis de contenido ............................... 57 3.1.3. Reglas esenciales del análisis de contenido ................................... 62 3.1.4. El discurso como estructura ........................................................... 64 3.2. La entrevista personal semi estructurada y estructurada ............................ 75 3.2.1. Aspectos metodológicos en las entrevistas ................................... 81 3.2.2. El control de las entrevistas ........................................................... 90 3.2.3. Entrevistas estructuradas y semi estructuradas ............................ 92 4. OBJETIVOS DE LA INVESTIGACIÓN ...........................................................................102 4.1. Objetivo general 1 de la investigación ........................................................102 4.1.1. Objetivo específico 1 de la investigación .....................................104 4.2. Objetivo general 2 de la investigación ........................................................109 4.1.1. Objetivo específico 2 de la investigación .....................................113 5. PREGUNTAS E HIPÓTESIS DE LA INVESTIGACIÓN ....................................................116 BLOQUE MARCO TEÓRICO 6. MARCO TEÓRICO. APROXIMACIÓN GENERAL A LA SOCIOLOGÍA ...........................121 6.1. Precursores y fundadores de la sociología .................................................129 6.1.1. Auguste Compte y la sociología ........................................................138 6.1.2. Herbert Spencer y el organicismo sociológico .................................143 6.1.3. Émile Durkheim y el nacimiento en relación a la conducta .............145 6.1.4. Max Weber y el desarrollo de la sociología comprensiva ................147 6.2. Aproximación general al concepto de consumo ........................................150 6.2.1. Los valores del consumo ...................................................................156 6.2.2. El discurso del consumo a través de lugares, actores y tiempos .....165 6.3. Teorías económicas del consumo ..............................................................170 6.4. Nacimiento de la sociedad del consumo ....................................................182 6.4.1. El desarrollo del consumo mediante el taylorismo y el fordismo ....184 6.4.2. Gran Depresión, New Deal y Segunda Guerra Mundial ...................187 6.4.3. La sociedad del consumo tras la Segunda Guerra Mundial .............189 6.4.4. Del neoliberalismo a la globalización ...............................................191 6.5. Características de la sociedad del consumo ...............................................194 6.5.1. El proceso de socialización en la sociedad del consumo de masas .197 6.6. Manifestaciones de la sociedad del consumo de masas: la moda. ............203 6.6.1. La creación y el lanzamiento de una nueva moda ...........................208 6.6.2. El consumo de bienes como herramienta de distinción social…… ...224 6.6.3. El consumo de bienes para comunicar la identidad social ...............230 6.6.4. El consumo llamativo de bienes de moda y lujo ..............................234 7. MARCO TEÓRICO. APROXIMACIÓN GENERAL AL PERIODISMO ESPECIALIZADO ..247 7.1. Información periodística especializada versus periodismo especializado .256 7.2. Evolución del periodismo especializado .....................................................262 7.2.1. El periodista especializado................................................................274 7.3. Características del periodismo especializado .............................................280 7.4. Las fuentes en el periodismo especializado . .............................................292 7.5. Los géneros en el periodismo especializado . ............................................304 BLOQUE ANÁLISIS DE LAS REVISTAS 8. NACIMIENTO DE LAS REVISTAS OBJETO DE ESTUDIO .............................................317 8.1. Telva, decana de la prensa femenina española .........................................317 8.1.1. Unidad Editorial, un grupo mediático español con capital italiano .325 8.2. Elle, la revista más vendida en el mundo ...................................................327 8.2.1. Lagardère-Hachette, un gigante más allá de la comunicación ........332 8.3. Vogue, la biblia de la moda…………………………………………………………………….339 8.3.1. Condé Nast, el grupo editorial de las revistas de moda………...........345 9. EVOLUCIÓN DE LAS REVISTAS FEMENINAS..............................................................349 9.1. Características de las revistas femeninas ...................................................355 9.1.1. Las revistas femeninas de alta gama ................................................366 9.2. El estilo comunicativo de las revistas de moda ..........................................370 9.3. Revistas femeninas en España ....................................................................373 BLOQUE MEDICIÓN DE RESULTADOS 10. MEDICIÓN DE RESULTADOS ...................................................................................389 10.1. Análisis de resultados de la revista Telva .................................................389 10.2. Análisis de resultados de la revista Elle ....................................................413 10.3. Análisis de resultados de la revista Vogue ...............................................432 10.4. Resultado de las entrevistas realizadas a redactoras/os de moda ..........451 10.4. Resultado de las entrevistas realizadas a lectoras de revistas de moda .461 11. CONCLUSIONES .......................................................................................................469
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