Back to the 'Bourg: a Man Discovers Wisconsin's
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iStock.com/by-studio Luxembourg City, the capital of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. A lmost exactly 175 years ago, the first of a wave of immi- grants from the tiny western European country of Luxembourg completed their arduous journey across the Atlantic Ocean and into the United States of America’s heartland to settle in Northeast Wisconsin. They built homes and churches and established com- munities across the region, embracing the opportunities afforded them by making a new start in a new land. Today the descendants of those pioneers, and thousands of other Americans of Luxembourgish ancestry, are making long journeys of their own—back to the land of their family’s origin to reclaim citizenship in the country their ancestors left behind. I never intended to embark on an epic quest to get back in touch with my family history. The opportunity just sort of pre- sented itself. In the spring of 2017, a family friend, also of Luxem- bourgish heritage, mentioned to my sister, Leslie, that their adult son was attempting to reclaim Luxembourg citizenship and sug- gested we might want to do the same. Intrigued, my siblings and I decided to look into it. After doing some online research, my brother, Bruce, contacted the Luxembourg American Cultural Society (LACS) based in Belgium, Wisconsin—about an hour’s drive from where my sib- lings and I live in the western suburbs of Milwaukee. He spoke with LACS representative Scott Deheck, who inquired what we knew of our family’s history. It wasn’t much. Bruce explained that our great-great-great grandparents on our mother’s side had emigrated from Luxem- bourg sometime in the mid-1800s and settled in a small com- munity called St. Donatus, south of Dubuque, Iowa. Subsequent generations remained in that area until our mother met and married our father, and they eventually moved to Milwaukee. Deheck was familiar with St. Donatus and its history as a settle- ment for Luxembourgers. Based on this information, he believed we were likely candidates to reclaim our ancestral Luxembourg citizenship and become dual citizens. When Bruce asked why we should consider doing so, Deheck explained there were several reasons. The most obvious is that it was an opportunity to recon- nect with our family heritage. But there were also more practical benefits. First, a Luxembourg passport is like a global “golden ticket,” providing visa-free access to virtually any country in the world. Also, not our children, but our children’s children, and every generation thereafter, would qualify for subsidized higher education at nearly any college in the European Union. Considering projected higher education costs, that’s a benefit on par with any precious family heirloom. Still, we had questions. For starters, why was Luxembourg allowing descendants of those who left the country long ago to suddenly become citizens again? The answer, Deheck explained, is that many of those who left never actually ceased being Luxem- bourg citizens. Winter / Spring 2021 | 49 Back in the 1800s, when emigrants left Luxembourg, most guage!), observed any of the country’s traditions or ever really didn’t renounce their citizenship before leaving. They simply mentioned Luxembourg. Heck, I would have been hard-pressed packed up their belongings, bought passage on a ship and set sail. to locate Luxembourg on a map of western Europe. Upon arriving at their destinations, they applied for citizenship We knew nothing about our ancestral homeland—its history, in their new countries and Luxembourg eventually struck their its culture, its traditions—or why tens of thousands of Luxem- names from its records. bourgers decided to leave the country and travel halfway around But at a time when women were denied suffrage and other the world to make a new start in the United States—including rights, there wasn’t much point for female immigrants to regis- Wisconsin, of all places. ter as United States citizens—so they didn’t. Though they became It was time for a crash course in all things Luxembourg. U.S. residents, they legally remained citizens of Luxembourg. What’s more, their children were born citizens of Luxembourg. Luxembourg, Abridged In short, Deheck explained, all blood descendants of female Lux- Perhaps my siblings and I could be forgiven for not knowing embourgers who never became naturalized U.S. citizens inherited much about our family’s country of origin. It’s easy to overlook. the right to claim citizenship of their ancestor’s home country. In fact, Luxembourg is one of the smallest countries in the world. There was, however, a catch. Luxembourg was only opening Just thirty-five miles wide and fifty-one miles from top to bottom, the opportunity for such descendants to reclaim citizenship for the entire country is about the size of the state of Rhode Island. a ten-year period, originally ending on December 3, 2018. (The Luxembourg is also landlocked, wedged between Germany to its deadline has since been extended.) As the reclamation process east, France to its south, and Belgium to its north and west. was time-consuming and involved, and required traveling to Lux- While Luxembourg separates these countries geographically, it embourg, we had to act fast. Fortunately, the LACS could assist joins them culturally. Luxembourg’s culture can best be described us—for a fee, of course. as a mix of French and German influences, which essentially It was a lot to take in. Reclaiming citizenship and embracing means its citizens enjoy their wine as much as their beer. The our family heritage sounded like a great opportunity. But doing country recognizes three official languages: French, German, and so wouldn’t be easy and it certainly wouldn’t be cheap, especially its national language of Luxembourgish. factoring in a trip to Luxembourg. Though small in size, Luxembourg’s strategic value was enor- We debated: was it really worth it? After all, my siblings and mous right from the beginning. The country’s capital and domi- I may have been of Luxembourg ancestry, but little of that her- nant urban center, Luxembourg City, can trace its foundation to itage had been passed down to us. While our grandmother had 963 when a count named Siegfried acquired a fortified outpost certainly made us aware of our ancestry, it wasn’t like she or left over from Roman times. Known then as Lucilinburhuc, any other relatives spoke Luxembourgish (yes, it’s an actual lan- meaning “little castle,” the stronghold was ideally situated atop a Richard Ratay Above Le!: A map of Luxembourg and surrounding nations. Above Right: !e author and one of his sons visit the grave of their ancestor, Mathias Manders. Opposite: A sign in Ozaukee County memorializing Luxembourg immigrants. 50 | Voyageur rocky promontory overlooking a U-shaped bend in the Alzette its independence and declared neutrality, Luxembourg was still River, offering it protection from invaders on three sides. subsequently invaded by German forces during both world wars. Over time a town sprung up around the fort, which prospered Amid the turmoil, Luxembourg has long prospered economi- and grew larger. Meanwhile, Siegfried’s heirs gradually acquired cally. For centuries, the fertile river valleys surrounding Luxem- more of the surrounding territory—and with it, more power and bourg allowed farmers to raise bountiful crops to provide for their prestige. In time, the House of Luxembourg ruled over a vast families. Following the discovery of large iron-ore deposits of rare region and produced three Holy Roman Emperors, including phosphoric content in the 1840s, steel quickly became the coun- Henry VII. try’s leading industry and remains important today. Renowned Given its prime location, Luxembourg was always a target for for its remarkable strength and durability, “Luxembourg steel” ambitious rulers and their armies. Over its history, Luxembourg is still specified by builders of the world’s most noted skyscrap- was conquered by the Romans, Celts (who converted the people ers, including the Emirates Tower in Dubai and New York’s One to Catholicism), Gauls, Spanish Netherlands, the French under World Trade Center. Louis XIV, Prussia, and the French (again) under Napoleon. After Following the downturn of the steel industry in the 1970s, Lux- Napoleon’s defeat at the Battle of Waterloo and the end of the embourg focused on establishing itself as a global financial center. Napoleonic Wars in 1815, Luxembourg was granted its indepen- The move proved prescient. Today, Luxembourg is considered dence by the Congress of Vienna (a formal meeting of European one of the world’s leading banking hubs and many of the world’s ambassadors) and its status elevated to Grand Duchy, meaning the most familiar technology companies maintain a presence there, nation’s ruler was bestowed the title of Grand Duke or Duchess. including Amazon, Microsoft, eBay, and PayPal. Because of its However, even after this agreement, disputes over the coun- small population and incredibly high GDP, Luxembourg is con- try’s status lingered. Eventually, Luxembourg was divided nearly sidered one of the wealthiest nations on the planet. in two, with the French-influenced western portion being ceded Luxembourg has also taken a prominent role on the world stage. to Belgium in 1839. The remaining Luxembourgish-speaking Not only was the country a founding member of the European region became the state of Luxembourg that exists today. Despite Union (EU), Luxembourg City was recently selected as one of four official capitals of the EU, along with Brussels, Frankfurt, and Strasbourg. It’s also the seat of the European Court of Justice, the highest judicial authority in the EU. That’s not bad for a country of just 614,000 people, making it one of the least populous coun- tries in Europe.