Paul Pairet Made Shanghai Proud
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travel aul Pairet made Shanghai proud “The fascinating when he took home not one but three historical location and the honours at San Pellegrino’s inaugural booming economy convinced Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant event held me to set up shop here,” in Singapore. Other than the coveted says Bombana as he gazes PLifetime Achievement award, Pairet at the Pudong skyline from also creamed off two lofty spots on the top 10 list for his his swanky Shanghai digs. pair of Shanghai eateries—Mr & Mrs Bund (No. 7) and “Shanghai’s dining scene Ultraviolet (No. 8). is continuously improving If anything, the Frenchman’s meteoric rise is a and raising its standards,” telling sign that Shanghai’s blossoming dining scene is Bombana says, “There’s no hitting its stride despite Michelin red guide’s deafening better time than now to join absence. the fray.” “Shanghai is the symbol of new Chinese power, a magnet and a name that feeds imagination,” says Pairet LTRAVIOLET of his adopted hometown. “The eateries that opened in UPaul Pairet could have the last three years are far more professional and their been a director/producer success has encouraged quality-driven professionals to if he weren’t the chef set foot here.” extraordinaire that he is. This Indeed, Shanghai’s simmering culinary frisson much—and more—you’ll has caught the attention of big name chefs. In recent conclude at the end of the View of the Bund 22-course from Ultraviolet. UV-A tasting menu (RMB2,500/ S$521) with wine/ beverage Shanghai’s pairing at his 17-month- old Ultraviolet. Here, a meal is not ½ OTTO E MEZZO just about Pairet’s part-classical, part- 8If the accolades and awards of its three Michelin- experimental creations but a journey starred Hong Kong flagship are anything to go by, in multi-sensorial extravagance. this Italian fine dining export at Rockbund (next to With ahot wealth of restaurants eats to choose from in Pairet’s burnt truffle-soup bread, a Mr Peninsula Hotel) is de rigueur on Shanghai’s to-eat & Mrs Bund signature and the only list—more so if you consider the splendid vista of the this metropolitan city, these five destinations stand familiar dish on the menu, is served gleaming Pearl Tower across the Bund. But while the out for worthy reasons. By Evelyn Chen with projected visuals of foggy wooded view is stunning, it does not detract from the indoor surrounds to the tune of Carnivalse—a eye candy, not least the glass-wrapped temperature- years, a bevy of Michelin stars-studded chefs—such piano piece by Gonzales—while the avant-garde controlled room with an epicurean display of artisan as Jason Atherton and Jean-Georges Vongerichten— cuttlefish guimauve (made entirely of cuttlefish and cheeses and cured hams. have planted outposts in the city with the hope of coconut) is presented in a spiral alongside home-made Chef-owner, Umberto Bombana, who was recently jostling for a slice of the rapidly expanding dining XO sauce with a trio of hypnotic TV sci-fi music— crowned Chef of Chefs in Asia by the Miele Guide, pie. Vongerichten just cut the ribbons to his second including Twilight Zone—playing in the background. lets the produce-driven Northern Italian fare crafted Shanghai eatery at Three on the Bund. Just a stone’s Ultraviolet’s reservation list is three months long, by recently-installed executive chef, Riccardo La throw away, Umberto Bombana, the undisputed truffle with only 10 seats per dinner, it’s wise to book way in Perna, do all the talking. Judging by the finesse of our Carabinero Prawn with king of Hong Kong’s 8½ Otto e Mezzo (ranked No. 6 advance. Reserve online at http://uvbypp.cc. Diners will be dinner—which included a starter of burrata cheese- Burrata Cheese, Caviar driven to an undisclosed venue after converging at specified and Tomato Vinaigrette on Asia’s 50 Best list), looks set to repeat his flagship’s stuffed raw Carabineros topped with oscietra caviar from 8½ Otto e Mezzo. dazzling success with a Bund-side offshoot. meeting point. and pasta of cavatelli seafood ragout with Tuscan white > 114 epicure 1013 1013 epicure 115 travel aul Pairet made Shanghai proud “The fascinating when he took home not one but three historical location and the honours at San Pellegrino’s inaugural booming economy convinced Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant event held me to set up shop here,” in Singapore. Other than the coveted says Bombana as he gazes PLifetime Achievement award, Pairet at the Pudong skyline from also creamed off two lofty spots on the top 10 list for his his swanky Shanghai digs. pair of Shanghai eateries—Mr & Mrs Bund (No. 7) and “Shanghai’s dining scene Ultraviolet (No. 8). is continuously improving If anything, the Frenchman’s meteoric rise is a and raising its standards,” telling sign that Shanghai’s blossoming dining scene is Bombana says, “There’s no hitting its stride despite Michelin red guide’s deafening better time than now to join absence. the fray.” “Shanghai is the symbol of new Chinese power, a magnet and a name that feeds imagination,” says Pairet LTRAVIOLET of his adopted hometown. “The eateries that opened in UPaul Pairet could have the last three years are far more professional and their been a director/producer success has encouraged quality-driven professionals to if he weren’t the chef set foot here.” extraordinaire that he is. This Indeed, Shanghai’s simmering culinary frisson much—and more—you’ll has caught the attention of big name chefs. In recent conclude at the end of the View of the Bund 22-course from Ultraviolet. UV-A tasting menu (RMB2,500/ S$521) with wine/ beverage Shanghai’s pairing at his 17-month- old Ultraviolet. Here, a meal is not ½ OTTO E MEZZO just about Pairet’s part-classical, part- 8If the accolades and awards of its three Michelin- experimental creations but a journey starred Hong Kong flagship are anything to go by, in multi-sensorial extravagance. this Italian fine dining export at Rockbund (next to With ahot wealth of restaurants eats to choose from in Pairet’s burnt truffle-soup bread, a Mr Peninsula Hotel) is de rigueur on Shanghai’s to-eat & Mrs Bund signature and the only list—more so if you consider the splendid vista of the this metropolitan city, these five destinations stand familiar dish on the menu, is served gleaming Pearl Tower across the Bund. But while the out for worthy reasons. By Evelyn Chen with projected visuals of foggy wooded view is stunning, it does not detract from the indoor surrounds to the tune of Carnivalse—a eye candy, not least the glass-wrapped temperature- years, a bevy of Michelin stars-studded chefs—such piano piece by Gonzales—while the avant-garde controlled room with an epicurean display of artisan as Jason Atherton and Jean-Georges Vongerichten— cuttlefish guimauve (made entirely of cuttlefish and cheeses and cured hams. have planted outposts in the city with the hope of coconut) is presented in a spiral alongside home-made Chef-owner, Umberto Bombana, who was recently jostling for a slice of the rapidly expanding dining XO sauce with a trio of hypnotic TV sci-fi music— crowned Chef of Chefs in Asia by the Miele Guide, pie. Vongerichten just cut the ribbons to his second including Twilight Zone—playing in the background. lets the produce-driven Northern Italian fare crafted Shanghai eatery at Three on the Bund. Just a stone’s Ultraviolet’s reservation list is three months long, by recently-installed executive chef, Riccardo La throw away, Umberto Bombana, the undisputed truffle with only 10 seats per dinner, it’s wise to book way in Perna, do all the talking. Judging by the finesse of our Carabinero Prawn with king of Hong Kong’s 8½ Otto e Mezzo (ranked No. 6 advance. Reserve online at http://uvbypp.cc. Diners will be dinner—which included a starter of burrata cheese- Burrata Cheese, Caviar driven to an undisclosed venue after converging at specified and Tomato Vinaigrette on Asia’s 50 Best list), looks set to repeat his flagship’s stuffed raw Carabineros topped with oscietra caviar from 8½ Otto e Mezzo. dazzling success with a Bund-side offshoot. meeting point. and pasta of cavatelli seafood ragout with Tuscan white > 114 epicure 1013 1013 epicure 115 travel beans, sea urchin and bottarga crumble—this MERCATO SLEEPLESS IN Shanghai offshoot SHANGHAI? looks set to add Not if you are staying in these two luxe hotels with prime another feather to locations and picturesque views to boot. Bombana’s cap. Sixth- Seventh Floors, Associate Mission Building, 169 Yuanmingyuan Lu, near Huqiu Lu, Huangpu district. Tel: +86 21 6087 2890 ERCATO MAfter the runaway success of his eponymous fine diner at Three on Bund, celebrated Alsace-born chef, Jean Georges deep-fried grass carp in sweet soy FU 1015 Waldorf Astoria Club Vongerichten, goes casual at his second Shanghai sauce—to contemporary-like the (Heritage Building) facade. FISH offshoot, Mercato. “Since we already have an established dish of sautéed Shanghai hairy fine dining concept in the building, we want Mercato crab served with toast—executed to project a different and distinct identity,” says Jacky with an eye for arty plating. Goergler, general manager of Jean Georges Restaurant Fittingly, this level of refinement (Shanghai). “We want to encourage guests to enjoy the comes with a haughty price tag experience of sharing at Mercato.” of RMB800 minimum spend per Located just two floors up from its stable mate, person but for its consummate Mercato dishes up simple but flavoursome communal- attention to quality in the FAIRMONT OCTOGON style coastal Italian—think warm seafood salad in rarified world of contemporary lemon-carrot dressing, panko-crusted eggplant with Shanghainese, it’s hard to unearth tomato fondue, wood-fired spicy pork sausage pizza a rarer gem than this.