MAN AND THE

The Metropolitan Museum of Art Exhibition Checklist

MAN AND THE HORSE

Presented by Polo/Ralph Lauren

A checklist to the exhibition at the Institute, December 3, 1984, through September 1, 1985 V)

>

^

Copyright © 1985 by The Metropolitan Museum of Art Published by The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Bradford D. Kelleher, Publisher John P. O'Neill, Editor in Chief Barbara Burn, Editor Anne Gozonsky, Designer ^ Contents Introduction 1

Tack Room 2

Hunting Gallery 8

Red Gallery 14

Green Gallery 19

Blue Gallery 24

Blue Gallery (Vitrine) 28

Tweed Gallery 35

Ramp Gallery 39

Sporting Gallery 43

Racing-Silks Gallery 45

Credits 54

Introduction The noble beauty of the horse has lifestyle, but all celebrate the beauty of always inspired man to make an and their accomplished, elegant equally handsome appearance. The riders and attendants. horseman's careful attention to each We would like to take this detail of the tack, to the design of each opportunity to express our accessory, and to the impeccable appreciation to the many individuals tailoring of each piece of gives and organizations who made the evidence to his respect for the horse exhibition possible through generous and to his own self-respect as well. In loans of riding apparel and equipment, this sense, the Costume Institute's and through welcome advice about the exhibition is far more than a survey of specifics of dressing for these very riding apparel; it is in essence the special activities. history of a very special style, one that is still preserved today in equestrian jean L. Druesedou worn by sportsmen Associate Curator in Charge throughout the world. This booklet, The Costume Institute prepared from label copy in the exhibition, serves as a guide through the galleries and as a supplement to the Museum's publication Man and the Horse. Each gallery is organized thematically—some around specific sports and some around a particular Tack Room Royal Cloth (clockwise) French, Louis XV, about 1760 English, early 18th century Gold velvet surrounded by royal-blue Red wool trimmed with silver lace and velvet, embroidered in floral and fruit passementerie appliquéd with linked pattern and fringed in silver thread C's Lent by Musée de l'Armée, Paris Probably belonged to John Creed Gift of Bill Blass, 1984 Thomas de Keyser Dutch, 1596-1667 Wooden Horse Cavalier French, 18th century Oil on canvas Lent by Bottega Veneta, Bequest of , 1929 29.180.1 Caparison with the Arms of Baron de Montmorency Pair of Flintlock Pistols French, 1750-85 French (Paris), 1809-15 Wool and silk Rogers Fund, 1904 Possibly made for Anne-Léon 1er de 04.3.190, 191 Montmorency (1705-85) Perhaps Aubusson Saddle Gift of James Hazen Hyde, 1953 English, Charles II, about 1660 53.50 ' Leather faced in blue velvet embroidered in silver and gold thread Equipment in floral crown motifs Horse Medicine Stand Private collection Wooden Tack Trunk Saddle Blankets Wooden Buckets Brass Harness Brackets Made by Hermès Saddle Lent by the Rockefeller family Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris French, 20th century Leather Quarter Blanket, Cooler, and Wool Saddle Made by Hermès, Paris Blanket English, 20th century Lent by Paul Mellon American, 20th century Leather Navy-blue wool with yellow wool trim Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Two Sets of Pair Harnesses and appliquéd initials "PM" New York, Museums Collection American, 20th century Lent by Paul Mellon Leather and brass Saddle Lent by the Rockefeller family and English, 20th century French, 4th quarter 19th century Leather Ceremonial White wool crossbarred in red Used by Mr. Thomas Hitchcock, Sr. Green wool bound with gold braid Lent by Madame la Comtesse Guy de Lent by Mrs. Louise H. Stephaich with embroidered cypher of Elizabeth Beaumont II of England Saddle Lent by the Royal Mews, Buckingham Quarter Blankets American, 20th century Palace American, 20th century Leather Blue wool with red trim and appliquéd Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Military Saddle initials "WJ" New York, Museums Collection British, 20th century Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Leather New York, Gift of the Estate of Walter Child's Stock Saddle Lent by the Royal Mews, Buckingham Jennings, 1965 American, 20th centurv Palace Leather Saddle Lent by the Rockefeller family Postilion Saddle French, 1984 English, 20th century Red leather Silver-mounted leather bearing the HohenzoUern crowns Algerian Saddle Made by Champion and Wilton, 459 Austrian, 20th century Algerian, about 1850 Oxford Street, Lent by the Spanische Hofreitschule, Green velvet embroidered in gold Lent by Mr. and Mrs. John M. Vienna thread and green silk, trimmed with Seabrook sequined tassels and silver plates Polo Bridle Lent by Musée de l'Armée, Paris Saddle American, 20th century French, Napoleon III, 2nd half 19th Lent by Mrs. Louise Stephaich Racing Saddle century American, 20th century Black leather with decorative stitching Pclham Bridle Leather Made for the Equipages de l'Empereur American, 20th century Made bv Martin 6k Martin, London, Lent by Musée de l'Empòri, Salon de Lent by the Rockefeller family New York, Philadelphia Provence Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Rolled Snaffle Bridle New York, Museums Collection Saddle French, 20th century Circassian, early 20th century Lent by Hermès of Paris, Inc., Racing Saddle Black leather with silver ornaments New York American, 20th century This saddle belonged to Gamid bey Leather Chejokoff. Made by Deluxe Saddlery, Baltimore Lent by Mr. and Mrs. Constantino American, 20th centurv Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Sidamon-Eristoff Lent by Paul Mellon New York, Museums Collection

Stall Plaque Awards Bridle Racing Saddle 20th century Algerian, about 1850 English, 20th centurv Lent by the Equestrian Lent bv Musée de l'Armée, Paris Leather Team, Inc. Made by Whippey, London Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Lent by the Spanische Hofreitschule, Harold Sterner New York, Museums Collection Vienna American, 1895-1976 Horse Accoutrements: Bridle, Saddle, Sidesaddle Leather and , , American, 19th century American, 19th century (?) Stirrup, and Blanket, 1969 Leather and suede Leather Watercolor on paper Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Lent by the Paul Mellon Collection, New York, Museums Collection New York, Museums Collection Upperville, Virginia

Woman's Saddle Sides addle Harold Sterner French, 17th century American, 20th century American, 1895-1976 Red velvet with back and foot rest that Leather Horse Accoutrements: , , can be used on either side of the seat Made by Martin 6k Martin, London, , , Gloves, Horn, , Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris New York, Philadelphia Spurs, , 1969 Lent by the Rockefeller familv Watercolor on paper Sidesaddle Lent by the Paul Mellon Collection, American, 20th century Woman's Sidesaddle Upperville, Virginia Leather British, 20th centurv Made by Martin 6k Martin, London, Leather and suede Sidesaddle New York, Philadelphia Stamped "E. W. Mayhew's Improved French, about 1840 Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Grip, 62 Seymour Street, London, Leather and white suede with trapunto New York, Museums Collection NW" work Lent by Denise Lee Lent bv the Hermès Collection, Paris Spanish Riding School Saddle Austrian, 20th century White suede with red wool trimmed with gold galloon Miniature Saddle, Bridle, Hunt Crops and Saddle Blanket Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, French, about 1890 New York, Gifts of Mr. and Mrs. New York, Gifts of Ester and Leah Officer's brown leather saddle; blanket William Gartelmann, 1958, Mrs. F. L. Davis, 1953, Bequest of Marion of black wool trimmed with white McCrea, 1959, Mr. and Mrs. Myron Shotter, 1973 Made as a model for a competition Bonis, 1954, Museums Collection awarding a saddle contract for the Coaching Horns Army Driving Whips Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Lent by Musée de l'Armée, Paris Lent by Swain, Adeney, Briff 6k Sons New York, Museums Collection Ltd., London Buffalo Bill's Bridle Coaching Horn English, 1892 Fly Whisks English, 1914 Tooled leather and silver Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Silver plate Presented to Buffalo Bill Cody in 1892 New York, Gifts of Mrs. R. W. Made by Boosey's 6k Co., Regent St., during the Earl's Court Exhibition Salmon, 1970, Mrs. Erwin Pruyn, London and Richmond Lent by The Buffalo Bill Historical 1960 Presented by Hoffman, Esq., for the Center, Cody, Wyoming best performance of the coach at the Riding Crops Royal , 1914; won by Saddle Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Horace Clark, age 18 years, June 19, Mexican, late 19th century New York, Gifts of Mrs. John Van 1914 Leather and silver Schick Bloodgood, 1965, Ester and Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Presented to HRH Albert Edward, Leah Davis, 1953, Mr. Herbert New York, Gift of Mr. Horace Clark, Prince of Wales, by Buffalo Macauley, 1954 1970 Bill Cody Lent by the Royal Mews, Buckingham Hunt Palace Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mrs. Tracy Higgins Tandem Coach Horn Mission Saddle, Bridle, and English, about 1890 Brass American, 1927-30 Used by John R. ("Tandem Jack") Tooled leather with sterling-silver Townsend when he drove his tandem ornaments depicting the various leader for a bet through the revolving missions in California doors of the old Waldorf Hotel Handcrafted and handtooled bv Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Edward H. Bohlin New York, Gift of Mrs. Lida F. Lent by The Buffalo Bill Historical Bloodgood, 1958 Center, Cody, Wyoming

Saddle Stand American, 19th centurv (?) Wood Made by Hughes Bros., New York Lent by H. Kauffman 6k Sons Saddlery Company, Inc., New York

Parade Saddle, Bridle, and Breastplate American, early 1940's Tooled leather with gold and sterling- silver ornaments depicting lite in the West Made by Edward H. Bohlin for his own use Lent by Gene Autry Hunting Gallery Woman's Hunting Habit from the Oil on canvas (clockwise) Equipage de Vouzeron Bequest of Collis P. Huntington, 1900 French, late 1970s 25.110.54 Coat of red wool trimmed with royal- blue velvet, gold-and-silver vénerie Master of the Hunt of the Equipage de galloon; brass buttons with relief of a Montpoupon stag; black wool French, about 1930 Lent by Mlle Solange de la Motte Saint Coat of red wool trimmed with red Pierre, Château de Montpoupon, (amarante) velvet, gold-and-silver Indre-et-Loire vénerie galloon; brass buttons with "M" in silver relief; vénerie with Man's Hunting Habit of the Equipage whip and hunting dagger; red du Luart (amarante) wool breeches; vénerie boots French, before 1919 worn with white cotton vénerie Coat of navy-blue wool trimmed with mustard-yellow wool; brass buttons Lent by Mlle Solange de la Motte Saint with silver relief of a running stag, Pierre, Château de Montpoupon, inscribed "Rallye Là Haut"; breeches Indre-et-Loire of navy-blue corduroy Lent by Mlle Solange de la Motte Saint French Hunting Horn Pierre, Château de Montpoupon, French, 20th century Indre-et-Loire Brass, d'Orléans type Made by C. Jesnon Jean Richard Goubie Lent by H. Kauffman 6k Sons Saddlery French, 1842-99 Company, Inc., New York The Prize for the Hunt, 1872

8 Livery for a Whipper-in of the Lent by Mlle Solange de la Motte Saint Workshop of François Clouet Equipage de Montpoupon Pierre, Château de Montpoupon, French, active by 1536-died 1572 French, about 1930 Indre-et-Loire Henry 11 (1519-59), King of France Short of red wool trimmed with Oil on canvas, transferred from wood red (amarante) wool, gold-and-silver Woman's Hunting Habit of the Rallye Bequest of , 1944 vénerie galloon; red (amarante) wool de l'Aigle 45.128.12 vest; brass buttons with "M" in silver French, about 1910 relief; breeches worn with white cotton Coat, jacket, vest, and skirt of grev Man's Coat from the Equipage du vénerie stockings and high-topped wool trimmed with red (amarante) Luart ; cap of black wool trimmed in velvet and gold-and-silver vénerie French, before 1919 vénerie galloon to show his rank; whip; galloon; brass buttons with silver relief Coat of grey wool trimmed with horn of a wild boar mustard-yellow wool attached Worn by the whipper-in of M. Bernard Worn bv Elaine Greffulhe, Duchesse shoulder ; brass buttons with de la Motte Saint Pierre de Guiche silver relief of a running stag, inscribed Lent by Mile Solange de la Motte Saint Label: Boursin, 61 rue de la Boetie "Rallye Là Haut" Worn by the Marquis du Luart after Pierre, Château de Montpoupon, (Paris) the hunt while returning to the Indre-et-Loire Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Lent by Mlle Solange de la Motte Saint Costume, Paris Pierre, Château de Montpoupon, Man's Hunting Habit from the Indre-et-Loire Equipage de la Chesnaye Woman's Hunting French, about 1920 French, about 1910 Man's Hunting Habit from the Rallye Coat of dark-green wool trimmed with Muff of roebuck fur trimmeei with Bonchat seven roebuck teet grey wool and with gold-and-silver French, betore 1919 Lent by Musée de la Mode et du vénerie galloon; brass buttons with Coat of grev wool trimmed with red Costume, Pans silver relief of a roebuck, inscribed and with gold-and-silver vénerie "Pic Dre la Chesnaye" galloon; silver buttons with brass reliei of a roebuck head, inscribed "Rallye Bonchat Morde on Mes Beaux" Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Man's and Woman's Hunting Habits Lent by Mlle Solange de la Motte Saint Costume, Paris of the Equipage du Champchevrier Pierre, Château de Montpoupon, French, 1st quarter 20th century Indre-et-Loire Man's Hunting Habit of rose-beige (doe-belly) wool French, dated 1910 trimmed with red (amarante) velvet Woman's Hunting Tricorne Coat of light-blue wool trimmed with and gold-and-silver vénerie galloon; French, about 1900 red velvet and with gold-and-silver brass buttons with silver relief of a of black felt trimmed with black vénerie galloon; brass buttons with running stag ostrich feathers, gold-and-silver vénerie silver relief of a stag head, inscribed galloon; silver button with brass relief Lent by Monsieur le Marquis de "Quand Même" Blacas, Château d'Ussé, Indre-et-Loire of a running stag, inscribed "Rallye Label: Pomadère Ernest Leroux 6k Cie, Chambly"; monocle attached to brim 4 Chausée d'Antin (Paris) Woman's Formal Hunting Habit for Worn by Madame la Princesse Joachim Lent by Musée de la Mode et du the Meadow Brook Hounds, Nett' York Murat Costume, Paris Label: Motsch, 42 Avenue de l'Alma, English (?), 2nd half 20th centurv Paris Wooden Horse Cutaway coat of Oxford-grey flannel Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Italian (?), 17th century with collar and vest of Meadowbrook- Costume, Paris May have been used for saddlery blue wool; black buttons inscribed display "MBH" Man's and Woman's Hunting Habits Lent by Bottega Veneta, New York Lent by Mrs. Alan Corey of the Rallye Chambly French, about 1900 Saddle Man's Hunting Habit Coats of light-blue wool trimmed with English, 20th century English, dated November 1, 1930 red (amarante) velvet; silver buttons Leather Cutaway coat of black wool with buff with brass relief of a running stag, Made by C. H. Wellman inscribed "Rallye Chambly" wool vest and buff leather breeches; Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, black buttons engraved with an "S" Worn by Monseigneur le Prince et New York, Museums Collection Madame la Princesse Joachim Murat Worn by Mr. Robert B. Young, a member of the Shelburne Hunt in 10 Massachusetts, when a guest at another Coat of red wool with grey wool tails, inscribed "PH" hunt. A guest does not usually wear his collar; brass buttons Worn by a member of the Piedmont own hunt colors but may retain his Master of Foxhounds has brass Hunt when a guest at another hunt own hunt buttons. buttons with relief of fox head and Label: Huntsman 6k Son, 11 Savile Label: Anderson and Sheppard, Ltd., inscription "Deep Run Hunt" Row, London London Label: Jacob Ebel 6k Sons, 14 N. Ninth Lent by Mr. William Wilbur Lent by James L. Young St., Richmond, Virginia Lent by the Valentine Museum, Woman's for the Man's Hunting Habit for the Richmond, Virginia Meadow Brook Hounds, New York Shelburne Hunt, Massachusetts American, about 1914 American, dated June 2, 1926 Man's Hunting Habit Coat and apron skirt of navy-blue Coat of dark-green wool with black American, dated October 6, 1924 wool twill with collar and vest of velvet collar; black buttons inscribed Coat of charcoal-grey wool with green Meadowbrook blue; black buttons with an "S" velvet collar; brass buttons with with "MBH" in white Label: Alfred Nelson 6k Co., 261 Fifth engraved hound and inscribed Lent by the National Museum of Ave., New York "Norfolk" American History, Washington, D.C. Lent by Mr. and Mrs. James L. Young Worn by a member of the Norfolk Hunt when a guest at another hunt Man's Hunting Habit for the Norfolk James Seymour Label: P.E. Waltner 6k Co, Boston Hunt, Virginia British, 1702-52 Mass English, about 1920 The Albrighton Hunt in 1730 Lent by the National Museum of Coat of red wool with olive-green Oil on canvas American History, Washington, D. C. velvet collar; brass buttons with relief Lent by Mrs. Whitney of running hound and horn, inscribed Man's Hunting Habit "Norfolk" Man's and Boy's Hunting Habits for English, dated May 7, 1973 Label: Tautz 6k Co, 12 Grafton St., the Deep Run Hunt, Virginia Coat of black wool; silver and copper New Bond St. London Wl American, dated September 1905 buttons with relief of fox head and 11 Lent by The Brooklyn Museum, Oil on canvas Woman's Hunting Habit for the New York Lent by His Grace the Duke of Beaufort Smithtown Hunt: Master of Foxhounds Man's Hunting Habit for the Man's Hunting Habit for the American, 2nd quarter 20th century Middleburg Hunt, Virginia Piedmont Hunt, Virginia: Master of Coat of red wool with purple wool American, dated May 25, 1951 Foxhounds collar; silver buttons engraved "SFH- Coat of red wool with green wool English, dated September 8, 1954 1900" with a running fox collar; brass buttons engraved "MH" Coat of red wool with yellow wool The only occasion for a woman to Worn by Mr. Newell J. Ward collar; brass buttons inscribed "PH" wear a red hunting coat is when she Lent by Mrs. Stephen Clark Label: Huntsman, 11 Savile Row, has been named Master of Foxhounds London Label: Nardi, New York Man's Hunting Habit for the Meadow Lent by William Wilbur Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Brook Hounds, New York New York, Gift of Mrs. Frederick English, about 1930 Man's Hunting Habit for the Johanns, 1979 Coat of red wool with grey wool Smithtown Hunt, New York collar; brass buttons engraved "MBH" English, dated March 5, 1937 Man's Hunting Habit for the with a hunting horn Coat of red wool with purple wool Westchester Hunt Club, New York Label: Sandon and Co, 8 Savile Row, collar; brass buttons with relief of a American, 1880 London running fox and "SH 1900" Coat and vest of green wool with Gift of Thomas A. Bradley, Jr., 1981 Label: J. B. 6k F. Wells, London yellow velvet collar; brass buttons 1981.301 Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, stamped "W.H.C." New York, Gift of Mrs. John Label: John Patterson 6k Company, 25 John Wootton Bloodgood, 1965 6k 27 W 26th Street, N.Y. British, about 1686-1765 Gift of Mrs. Lawrence Jacob, 1949 Portrait of the Fifth Duke of Beaufort CI 49.42. labe on a Pony with His Tutor

12 Hunt Servant's Coat for the Berkeley Coat of dark Padua-red wool with Woman's Hunting Habit of the Hunt white wool collar; brass buttons with Equipage du Comte de Volon English, dated November 1979 "PH" in relief French, about 1900 Coat of mustard-yellow wool twill Label: Frank Hall, Market Harborough Jacket of navy-blue wool trimmed in with green wool collar embroidered Lent bv Mr. Robin Smith-Ryland red velvet, gold-and-silver vénerie with a running fox; brass buttons with galloon; brass buttons with silver relief relief of a running fox and inscriptions James Sevmour of a stag head "Tally Ho" and "BH" British, 1707-52 Worn by Madame la Princesse Joachim Label: Bernard Weatherill Ltd., 33A Portrait of a Horseman, 1748 Murat Dover Street, London Oil on canvas Label: Busvines, 4 rue Marbeuf, Paris Lent by Mr. C. G. M. Lloyd-Baker, Gift of the children of the late Otto H. Lent by Musée de la Mode et du M.F.H. and Addie W. Kahn, 1956 Costume, Paris 56.54.1 Man's Hunting Habit for the Oxford Man's Hunting Habit University Draghounds: Master of Livery for a Whipper-in of His Grace French, dated 1926 Foxhounds the Duke of Beaufort Coat of green wool trimmed with English, dated September 18, 1967 English, dated April 1964 green velvet and with gold-and-silver Coat of charcoal-grey wool cavalry Coat of green wool with gold buttons vénerie galloon; silver buttons with twill with midnight-blue velvet collar; engraved "BH" brass relief of a roebuck head, black buttons engraved "OUDH" Lent bv His Grace the Duke of Beaufort inscribed "Pro Victoria Retro" Label: H. Huntsman 6k Sons, 11 Savile Label: Sutton, 131 Boulevard Row, London, England Man's Hunting Habit for the Beaufort Haussman (Paris) Lent by Frank E. Richardson Hunt: Master of the Hunt Lent by Musée de la Mode et du English, dated September 1982 Costume, Paris Hunt Servant's Livery for the Pytchley Coat of navy-blue wool with buff woo! Hunt, England lapels; gold buttons engraved "BH" English, dated September 1960 Lent by His Grace the Duke ot Beaufort 13 Red Gallery Child's Boots Louis-Jean-Joseph, son of Napoleon III (clockwise) French, Second Empire, Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris mid-19th century Black leather embroidered with gold Benedict Masson thread in Napoleonic insignia; white French, 1819-93 satin lining embroidered with "Prince Le Prince Imperial en veneur à Napoléon" costume de poney, 1861 Made for the Prince Imperial Eugène- Oil on canvas Louis-Jean-Joseph, son of Napoleon III Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris Lent by the Musée de la Chaussure et d'Ethnographie Régionale de Romans Child's Landau French, 1830-50 Mechanical Toy Horse Green painted wood with coat of arms; French, mid-19th century red leather interior Wood, brass, leather, ivory, silk, and Lent by Hermès of Paris, Inc., horsehide with Napoleonic insignia New York Made for the Prince Imperial Eugène- Louis-Jean-Joseph, son of Napoleon III Man's Formal Evening Wear for a Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris Specific Hunt French, dated September 21, 1933 Chi id's Saddle Tail coat of black wool with pale French, Second Empire, yellow wool collar and satin vest; brass mid- 19th centurv buttons with silver relief of a wild Leather, with black wool saddle boar, a stag, and hounds with blanket, trimmed with gold galloon inscription "Ecoute et Tais Toi" and Napoleonic insignia Made for Paul Weiss Made for the Prince Imperial Eugène- 14 Label: James Pile, London; 27 Rue Gift of Jessie Leonard Hill, 1979 Gift of Mrs. Guy Fairfax Carv, in Cambon, Paris; 13 Rue Mazagran, 1979.152.1 memory of her mother, Mrs. Burke Biarritz. Established 1784 Roche, 1949 Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Man's Formal Evening Wear for the 49.142 Costume, Paris New York Coaching Club American, dated October 1961 Woman's Riding Juste d Corps Man's Formal Evening Wear for the Tail coat of black wool with black silk French, Louis XV, mid-18th centurv Rallye Anjou-Sologne lapels; gold buttons with New York Jacket of red silk woven with gold French, dated 1928 Coaching Club insignia metallic threads in floral and bird Tail coat of red wool with red faille Label: Saluzzi, 342 Madison Ave., patterns lapels and royal-blue velvet vest; brass New York Lent bv Musée de la Moele et du buttons with relief of a roebuck Lent bv George A. Weymouth Costume, Paris Made for G. Emmanuel Lang Label: L. Larsen 6k Co., 7 et 9 Rue de Man's Formal Evening Wear for the Buff Coat la Boëtie, Paris Deep Run Hunt, Virginia German, end of the 17th centurv Lent by Musée de la Mode et du American, dated March 1, 1905 Leather Costume, Paris Tail coat of red wool with lapels of Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 blue-grey silk faille; brass buttons 25.135.87 Man's Formal Evening Wear for a Label: W. S. Constable 6k Co., Specific Hunt Merchant Tailors, Richmond, Virginia Woman's Riding Juste à Corps American, late 19th centurv Lent bv the Valentine Museum, French, 18th centurv Tail coat of dark-green broadcloth Richmond, Virginia Jacket of blue-and-lavender iridescent with collar of mustard-vellow silk brocaded in a floral pattern silk faille Sir Henry Raeburn Lent bv Musée des Arts de la Mode, Label: John Patterson 6k Co., 436 Fifth British, 1756-1823 Paris Ave., New York George Harley Drummond Oil on canvas 15 James Seymour Jean-Baptiste van Loo (1684-1745) Venetian Servant's Livery British, 1702-52 and Charles Parrocel (1688-1752) Italian, early 19th century Sir Roger Burgoyne upon His Favorite French, 1723 Coat, vest, and breeches of mustard- Horse Badger with His Bitch Juno Equestrian Portrait of Louis XV at the colored wool trimmed with Oil on canvas Age of Thirteen multicolored woven cotton tape Lent by the Yale Center for British Oil on canvas Rogers Fund, 1925 Art, New Haven, Paul Mellon The figure of the king was painted by 25.56.8abc Collection van Loo, the horse by Parrocel. Lent by Musée du Château de Man's Coat Woman's Casaquin de Chasse Versailles English, about 1735 French, Louis XV, 18th century Brown camlet trimmed with self-fabric Jacket of cream-colored patterned silk Livery buttons brocaded in blue, beige, and metallic- French, about 1820-35 Typical of the coats worn by English silver floral pattern Cape of blue wool trimmed with country gentlemen in the first half of Lent by Musée de la Mode et du of red, white, and green needlepoint the 18th century Costume, Paris Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Trust Gift, 1983 1984 Woman's Riding Coat 1983.241.3a 1984.273 English, about 1760 Dark-brown camlet with light-blue Venetian Servant's Livery Lion Sleigh satin collar, cuffs, facings, and attached Italian, early 19th century French, about 1790 vest; trimmed with metallic cord and Coat, vest, and breeches of red wool Painted wood brass buttons trimmed with multicolored woven Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Purchase, Mr. and Mrs. Alan S. Davis cotton tape New York, Gift of Mr. James A. Gift, 1976 Rogers Fund, 1926 Keillor, 1953 1976.147.1 26.56. lOabc

16 Louis-Auguste Brun embroidered with polychrome silk and Formal Evening Wear for the London French, 1758-1815 metallic silver threads Coaching Club La Reine Marie Antoinette, 1783 Lent by Musée de la Mode et du American, dated August 21, 1956 Oil on canvas Costume, Paris Tail coat and of Beaufort-blue Lent by Musée du Château de wool with blue moiré lapels; brass Versailles Woman's Casaquin de Chasse buttons engraved "CC"; of French, Louis XV, 18th century tan wool Woman's Riding Coat Jacket of natural-colored silk brocaded Label: Bernard Weatherill, New York English, about 1775 in polychrome floral pattern Lent by Mr. and Mrs. John Seabrook Medium-blue camlet Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Purchase, Mr. and Mrs. Alan S. Davis Costume, Paris Evening Dress Gift, 1976 French, Winter 1939 1976.147.2 Armor Metallic silver and white silk broché Italian, about 1575 woven with figures of horses Georg Christoph Grooth Steel, partlv gilt, leather, velvet Label: Molyneux, Paris, Winter 1939 German, 1716-49 Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 Worn by Mrs. Paul-Louis Weiller The Empress Elizabeth of Russia on 14.25.717a-r Gift of Mrs. Harrison Williams, Lady Horseback, Attended by a Page Mendl, Mrs. Ector Munn, 1946 Oil on canvas Armor for a Horse CI 46.4.6ab Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Nathaniel Spear, Italian, about 1575 Jr., 1978 Steel, leather, velvet Francisque Millet 1978.554.2 Fletcher Fund, 1921 Flemish, 1642-79 21.139.2 La Course de Chevaux Woman's Casaquin de Chasse Oil on canvas French, Louis XV, 18th century Private collection Jacket of cream-colored patterned silk

17 Man's Formal Evening Wear for the Imperial Hunting Livery Goldens Bridge Hunt, New York French, Second Empire, about 1855-70 American, dated October 10, 1917 Coat of imperial-green wool trimmed Tail coat of red wool with black velvet with red-orange (aurore) velvet and collar, trimmed with gold metallic gold-and-silver vénerie galloon; silver braid and ivory satin lapels; silver buttons with brass relief of running buttons engraved with a horse and stag; vénerie belt with hunting dagger; "GBH" vénerie boots Label: Brooks Brothers, Madison Lent by Musée de l'Armée, Paris Avenue Corp., 44th Street Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Eugène Delacroix New York, Gift of Mrs. Joseph French, 1809-68 Wilshire in memory of Mr. Joseph An Arab Horseman Giving a Signal, Wilshire, 1958 1851 Oil on canvas Man's Formal Evening Wear for the Lent by The Chrysler Museum, Myopia Hunt, Massachusetts Norfolk, Virginia, Gift of Walter P. American, 1905 Chrysler, Jr. Tail coat of red wool with yellow satin lapels; brass buttons with relief of a horn and fox head, inscribed "Myopia" Label: Mitchell, Boston Gift of Mrs. Francis B. Lothrop, 1951 CI51.59abcd

18 Green Gallery Francis Sartorius red and with silver trim; silver buttons: (clockwise) British, 1734-1804 silver sleeve emblem inscribed "Poste Portrait of "Poppit," 1774 aux Chevaux-Relais de Mont-Leul-No Oil on canvas 1" Lent bv His Grace the Duke of Beaufort Lent bv Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de Provence Postilion and Spur French, late 17th centurv Postilion Livery Black leather and iron with wooden French, Louis-Philippe, about 1840 sole Jacket of navy-blue wool trimmed in Lent bv the Musée de la Chaussure et red with silver braid; engraved silver d'Ethnographie Régionale de Romans buttons; silver sleeve emblem inscribed "Poste aux Chevaux-Relais de Clan-No Postilion Livery 6" French, Second Empire, late 1860s Lent by Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de Jacket of dark-blue wool trimmed with Provence red and with gold braid; copper buttons engraved with imperial coat of Postilion Livery from the House of the arms; copper sleeve emblem with Persian Ambassador to Pans crowned eagle inscribed "Maison de French, Second Empire, mid-1860s l'Empereur—Service des Ecuries" Jacket of dark-blue wool trimmed in Lent by Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de red with gold braid; copper buttons Provence with the French imperial crown surmounted bv the Islamic crescent. Postilion Lu ery Lent bv Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de French, Charles X, 1825-30 Provence Jacket of navv-blue wool trimmed with 19 Postilion Boots Postilion Livery Postilion Livery French, 1st half 19th century French, Louis-Philippe, about 1840 American, early 20th century Boots of black leather with wooden Jacket of dark-blue wool trimmed with Jacket of aubergine velvet with red soles. The right boot has vertical red and with gold braid; engraved satin inner collar; red and silver wooden reinforcement for additional silver buttons; silver sleeve emblem buttons and metallic silver fringe protection from the off-side (right) inscribed "Poste aux Chevaux-Relais Gift of Mrs. August Belmont, 1937 horse and shaft du Pin-No 4" CI 37.47.1 Lent by Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de Lent by Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de Provence Provence Postilion Livery French, Second Empire, about 1852 Postilion Livery for the Coach of Mr. Postilion Livery of the House of Jacket of dark-green wool trimmed Alfred G. Vanderbilt Monseigneur le Prince de Radziwill with red and with silver braid; silver American, early 20th century French, Second Empire, late 1860s buttons engraved with an uncrowned Jacket of dark-aubergine wool with Jacket of navy-blue wool trimmed with eagle; silver sleeve emblem with ivory collar and cuffs piped in red; red and with white braid; copper uncrowned eagle inscribed "Poste aux brass buttons buttons engraved "Poste—Mr le Prince Chevaux-Relais des 4 Chemins de Lent by The Newport Historical de Radziwill" l'Oie-No 1" Society, Newport, Rhode Island Lent by Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de Lent by Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de Provence Provence Post Boy's Livery English, about 1780-1810 Postilion Boots Musketeer Boot and Spur Jacket of yellow wool; waistcoat of French, about 1800 French, 17th centurv white wool Black leather with wooden soles Brown leather stamped with a fleur-de- Lent by The Colonial Museum of Lent by Musée de l'Armée, Paris lys on the cuff Williamsburg, Virginia Lent by Musée de la Chaussure et d'Ethnographie Régionale de Romans

20 Postilion Livery for the Coach of Mr. coats of arms of Amelia of Spain and Coaching Livery of Mr. Alfred G. John M. Seabrook Prince Adelbert Wittlesbach Vanderbilt English, dated February 13, 1959 From the stable at Nymphenburg; American, dated October 19, 1911 Jacket of dark-blue wool with silver believed to have been made for the Dark-aubergine wool; steel buttons buttons Bavarian ducal family with "AGV" in relief Label: Simpson and Sons, 63 S. Made by Binder-Ainé, Paris Label: John Patterson, New York and Audley Street, London Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Newport Lent by Mr. and Mrs. John M. New York, Gift of Dieter Holterbosch, Lent by The Newport Historical Seabrook 1963 Society, Newport, Rhode Island, and The Museums at Stony Brook, New Pair Harnesses Coaching Livery of the Whitehouse York, Gift of Mrs. Paul Moore, 1972 German (Bavaria), probably 19th Family century American, 1st quarter 20th century Coaching Livery of the Pyne Family Leather with silver plate and vermeil Coat of navy-blue wool with black American, dated December 1, 1905 hardware with Wittlesbach crest velvet collar; brass buttons with the Coat of navy-blue wool with navy-blue Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Whitehouse crest; vest of blue-and- velvet collar; silver buttons; inner New York, Gift of Mr. Dieter vellovv striped cotton collar of blue-and-buff striped cotton Holterbosch, 1969 Lent by Charles Whitehouse Label: John Patterson 6k Co., 2 6k 4 W. 33rd St., New York State Chariot John Ferneley Lent by Mrs. C. Suydam Cutting French, 1875 British, 1782-1860 Chariot body (coupé) hung on cee- The Drag of Sir Watkin Williams Coaching Livery of the Right springs; footman's seat; coachman's Wynn, 1843 Honorable Earl of Rosebery seat covered with hammer cloth; five Oil on canvas English, in the style of 1820s bevelled-glass windows; gold-and- Lent bv the Yale Center for British Art, Coat of dark-green wool trimmed with silver-plated hardware; upholstery'of New Haven, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. J. silver galloon; silver buttons with coat silk damask; quarter panels bear the Richardson Dilworth of arms in relief; dark-green velours 21 breeches with matching trim; vest of Lent by The Newport Historical Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, yellow-green wool. Society, Newport, Rhode Island New York, Museum Purchase, 1982 Label: Henry Poole 6k Company, 21 Clifford Street, London Alfred de Dreux Livery and Accoutrement for a Lent by Henry Poole 6k Company, French, 1810-60 Postilion of the Messageries Royales London Portrait de M. et Mme A. Mosselman French, Charles X, about 1825-30 et leurs deux filles, 1848 Coat of navy-blue and red wool Coach Guard's Livery of Judge Oil on canvas trimmed with silver braid; engraved William Moore Lent by Musée du Petit Palais, Paris silver-plated buttons; arm band with American, about 1910 silver-plated shield bearing the royal Coat of blue wool with cream wool Coaching Livery of the Whitehouse crown and coat of arms inscribed collar; cuffs and pocket flaps trimmed Family "Messageries Royales de l'Eclairé" with metallic gold braid; brass buttons American, 1st quarter 20th century engraved "Rockmarge" Coat of navy-blue wool with brass A postilion rides the near-side (left) Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, buttons with the Whitehouse crest; horse of a team or teams, either New York, Gift of Mrs. Paul Moore, inner collar of blue-and-yellow striped precluding the need for a coachman or 1966 cotton serving as a coachman's assistant. Worn by the "tiger," the small groom Aspects of the costume distinctive to Coach Guard's Livery of Mr. William positioned at the back of the coach the 19th-century postilion are the K. Vanderbilt Lent by Charles Whitehouse hat of hard leather; the sisal wig with American, dated August 1930 four pairs of braids tied at the back; Coat of red wool with ivory wool Solange Tessier the heavy wooden-soled boots to lapels; cuffs and pocket flaps trimmed French, 19th centurv protect the postilion's legs from the powerful vibrations of the carriage with metallic gold braid; brass buttons Promenade au Bois de Bologne: transmitted by the shaft; the short- engraved "V" Attelage à la Daumont, i860 handled whip. Label: J. K. McLennan, Newport, R.I. Lithograph

22 Distinctive aspects of the accoutrement are the saddle with a locking brass pommel where gold coins were carried; the postilion's bedroll in front; the leather mail trunk on the back; large to accommodate the boots; the bridle with the royal coat of arms on the boss. Lent by Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de Provence

Francis Sartorius British, 1734-1804 Portrait of "Pippin," 1771 Oil on canvas Lent by His Grace the Duke of Beaufort

23 Blue Gallery Woman's Riding Habit: Amazone Sir Henry Raeburn (clockwise) French, about 1830 British, 1756-1823 Jacket and skirt of medium-blue wool The Drummond Children trimmed with round buttons covered Oil on canvas in silk thread Bequest of Mary Stillman Harkness, Lent by Musée de la Mode et du 1950 Costume, Paris 50.145.31

Woman's Riding Cap: Casquette Girl's Riding Habit d'Amazone French, 1887 French, about 1830 Jacket, sidesaddle skirt and cap of Cap of black velvet trimmed with dark-green wool; black satin buttons black silk braid and tassel Label: Maison Georges, Chaussée Lent by Musée de la Mode et du d'Antin 29, Paris Costume, Paris Gift of Mrs. Warren Brewer, 1982 1982.109. labe Man's Coat American, 1840-50 Girl's Riding Habit Beige linen American, about 1886 Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of blue 1970 wool trimmed with narrow gold braid 1970.281.8 and brass buttons Lent by the National Museum of Child's Basket Saddle American History, Washington, D. C. Late 19th or early 20th century Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Museums Collection 24 Woman's Hunting Habit for the Pau black buttons engraved "PH" Woman's Riding Habit Hunt, France Label: Robert Douglas, Ltd., New- American, about 1880 English, 2nd quarter 20th centurv Bond St., London Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of dark-blue (jacket and vest dated August 4, 1937; Gift of Mrs. C. Suydam Cutting, 1978 wool; silver buttons skirt dated January 15, 1941) 1978.472. lab Gift of Claggett Wilson, 1941 Jacket, breeches, and sidesaddle skirt CI41.146.3ab of navy-blue wool twill; jacket Sir Alfred J. Munnings trimmed with green collar; vest of British, 1878-1959 Alfred de Dreux ivory wool twill; black buttons Tu'o Busvines and a Cutaway French, 1810-60 engraved with insignia of the Pau Hunt Oil on cam L'Ecuyère Kippler sur sa Jument Noire Label: Roberts and Carroll, London Lent by Mrs. G. Maxwell Moran Oil on canvas Gift of Mrs. Frederick H. Prince, Jr., Lent by Musée du Petit Palais, Paris 1978 Woman's Riding Habit 1978.329.2a-d English, about 190 Woman's Ridmg Habit Jacket and sidesaddle skirt ot dark- English, about 19V Woman's Riding Habit green and black wool Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of black English, about 1925 Lent bv The Brooklvn Museum, wool Coat and apron skirt of navy-blue New York Worn by Anna Gould, Comtesse wool Boniface de Castellane Label: Busvines, 4 Brook St., London Woman's Riding Habit Label: Busvine, 4 Brook Street, W. Lent by Mr. Charles Whitehouse American, about 1872 (London) Jacket and sidesaddle skirt oi dark- Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Woman's Hunting Habit for the green wool with black satin buttons Costume, Paris Pytchley Hunt, England Gift of Miss H. W. Knight, 1941 English, dated November 4, 1936 CI 41.145.3a-c Coat and sidesaddle skirt of black wool twill with white wool collar; 25 Woman's Riding Habit Theatrical Costume Label: Renfrew, Montreal American, 1890 French, about 1947 Lent by Beverly Birks Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of navy- Jacket and skirt of black wool; blue wool attached vest front of black moiré; Sir Francis Grant Worn by the donor when riding in jacket trimmed with black silk braid British, 1810-78 Central Park and buttons Master James Keith Fraser on His Label: J. White, 786 Fifth Avenue, Made in the style of the 1880s for the Pony, 1844 New York Jean Cocteau play L'Aigìe a deux têtes Oil on canvas Gift of Mrs. J. H. Mandlebaum, 1953 Label: Pierre Balmain (Paris) Lent by the Yale Center for British CI 53.49ab Lent by Beverly Birks Art, New Haven, Paul Mellon Collection Woman's Riding Habit Woman's Riding Habit American, about 1894 English, early 20th century Woman's Riding Habit Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of black Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of charcoal- American, 1826 wool grey wool; attached vest front of cream Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of dark- Label: A. J. Muller, New York wool brown wool trimmed with black braid; Gift of Mrs. W. Bayard Cutting, 1940 Label: Nicoli, London buttons covered with black silk CI40.106.32ab Lent by The Brooklyn Museum, Gift of Miss H. W. Knight, 1941 New York CI41.145.2ab Johannes Lingelbach Dutch, 1623-74 Woman's Riding Hat Woman's Riding Hat Hawking Party Assembled at a Canadian, about 1900 French, about 1830 Country Mansion Open tricorne of black felt and silk of black silk with green silk Oil on canvas with flat crown Purchase, 1871 Worn by the hostess of the Montreal Lent by Musée des Arts de la Mode, 71.115 Hunt Paris

26 Woman's Riding Habit black velvet ribbon; black satin Oil on canvas American, about 1874 buttons Gift of General Bovkin C. Wright, Jacket and bustle skirt of dark-green Lent by the National Museum of 1953 wool twill trimmed with black velvet American History, Washington, D. C. 53.177 buttons Lent by the National Museum of Man's Informal Riding Habit Coaching Picnic Basket American History, Washington, D. C. English, 1920s American, 20th centurv Coat and breeches of olive-brown Wicker; fifteen-piece service Woman's Riding Hat wool twill Lent bv The Museums at Stony Brook, French, 1878 Label: E. Tautz 6k Sons, Oxford St. New York, Museums Purchase, 19 Collapsible top hat of black silk faille (London) with self-fabric bow and band Gift of Jessie Leonard Hill, Charles R. Child's Riding Habit Label: Exposition Universelli, 1878, Leonard, Jr., and Laura Leonard Ault, French, 1920s Seul Médaillé 1978 Coat and breeches of green wool; Gift of Mrs. B. G. Lathrop, 1957 1978.477.61ab of brown leather; hat of green CI 57.21.3 velvet Boy's Riding Habit Label: Yvonne Gérard, 13-16 rue Edouard Manet American, 1905 Taitbout, Paris French, 1832-83 Coat and breeches of brown-and-white The Jacqueline Loewe Fowler Costume Portrait de Guillaudin à Cheval, wool twill Collection, Gift of Jacqueline Loewe 1870 Label: Best 6k Co., New York Fowler, 1984 Oil on canvas Lent bv the National Museum of Private collection American History, Washington, D. C.

Woman's Riding Jacket George de Forest Brush American, about 1867 American, 1855-1941 Jacket of blue wool trimmed with Portrait of Alan Harnman, 1905 Blue Gallery Herbert Haseltine Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 Vitrine (left to right) American, 1877-1962 14.25.1766ab Tom Fool, 1955 Bronze on marble base Stirrup Lent by Mrs. Spanish, 16th century Iron Herbert Haseltine Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 American, 1877-1962 14.25.1757a Chilly and Sunbeam, 1947 Bronze with gilt patina, on marble base Trophy Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney American, 1942 14-carat gold, engraved "Sixty-eighth Siyavush Plays Polo Before Afrasiyab Kentucky Derby $75,000 added; VA Iranian (Tabriz), Safavid period, reign Miles; Churchill Downs, Louisville, of Shah Tahmasp (1524-76), about May 2, 1942. Won by 1525-30 Stable's ',' 1942" Ink, colors, and gold on paper Made by Lemon 6k Son, Louisville, Folio 180 from the Shah-nameh of Kentucky Shah Tahmasp, attributed to Painter Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney "B" Gift of Arthur A. Houghton, Jr., 1970 Roweled Spur 1970.301.26 German, about 1530 Polished steel Stirrups Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 French, 17th century 14.25.1710 Steel with traces of gilding

28 Rou'eíed Spurs Edgar Degas Spur Italian, 15th century French, 1834-1917 French, early 17th century Steel Horse Walking, about Polished steel Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 1870 Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 14.25.1701ab Bronze 14.25.1698 Lent by Mr. William Wood-Prince Artist Unknown Westchester Racing Association Cup French, mid-19th centurv Edgar Degas American, 1927 Monsieur de Charette, Premier French, 1834-1917 Sterling silver, engraved "The Brook President du Club à Cheval Horse at a Trough, about 1868-70 Handicap Steeplechase won by Lent by Hermès of Paris, Inc., New- Bronze 'Coronation' by 'Johren' out of York Lent by Mr. William Wood-Prince 'Inaugural'" Lent by Mrs. John Hav Whitnev Stirrup Cheltenham Cups South German, about 1600 English, 1928-29 Santa Anita Park, Arcadia Handicap Steel with traces of tinning 20-carat gold cups on green onvx Plate Gift of George D. Pratt, 1925 bases, engraved "The Cheltenham American, February 5, 1963 25.188.3 Gold Cup won by Mr. J. H. Whitney's Plate of 14-carat gold, engraved "One 'Easter Here mile and one-quarter (on the turf) won Westchester Racing Association, Made by Asprey, Birmingham, England by 'The Axe 2nd' time 2:04:1, The Jerome Handicap Cup Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney , Owner; R. L. English, 1952 Wheeler, Trainer; Peter Moreno, Sterling silver, engraved "Won by Stirrup Cup Jockey" Greentree Stable's 'Tom Fool'" English, 19th centurv Made bv Shreve 6k Co., San Francisco Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney Silver Lent bv Mrs. John Hay Whitney Lent bv the Right Honorable Lady Leigh 29 Collection of Hunt Buttons Stirrups Souvenir Photo Album and English, about 1840-80 Mexican, 17th century Advertisements Brass Iron 1910 Lent by Henry Poole and Company, Rogers Fund, 1908 Prepared by Alfred G. Vanderbilt for a London 08.56.1 lab commercial operation called "Venture," a coach ride from London Relief of a Cavalryman Crossing Beit Buckie to Brighton and vice versa for which he a Stream English, 1887 sold tickets Neo-Assyrian, reign of Sennacherib, Brass with relief of Annie Oakley on Lent by The Newport Historical 705-681 B.c. horseback inscribed "Buffalo Bill's Society, Newport, Rhode Island Limestone Wild West Show" and "Jubilee 1887" Mesopotamia, Nineveh, Palace of with a portrait of Queen Victoria; Boot Pulls and Boot Horn Sennacherib stamped on back "Earl's Court American, 20th century Gift of John D. Rockefeller, Jr., 1932 Exhibition" Metal and ivory in leather box initialed 32.143.18 Private collection "ABS" Lent by Mrs. Michael P. McDonough Charles Cary Rumsey Hunting Tricorne American, 1879-1922 French, Second Empire, late 1860s Man's Hunting Boots Study f or Centaur, about 1914 Black felt trimmed with white ostrich French, 20th century Bronze feathers and with gold-and-silver Boots of black waxed calf; worn over Lent by Charles Cary Rumsey vénerie galloon; silver button of the footless white cotton vénerie stockings Sculptures, Inc. imperial hunt with a relief of a gartered in vénerie galloon; stored on running stag beechwood boot trees Stirrups Worn by the Empress Eugénie Lent by John Lobb Argentinian, 19th century Lent by Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de Silver Provence Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris 30 Artist Unknown Saddle Collection of Hunting Horns French, 18th century (?) Hungarian, 1st half 15th century English, 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries Equestrian Statuette of Louis XIV Bone Copper, brass, and silver Bronze, on an ebonized pedestal with Harris Brisbane Dick Fund, 1940 Lent bv the Right Honourable gilt-bronze reliefs and mounts 40.66 Lady Leigh After a model by Martin van den Bogaert, called Desjardins (1640-94) Muzzle Horse Chamfron Frederick C. Hewitt Fund, 1911 German, about 1575 , about 1625 11.129.1 Iron with traces of tinning Steel decorated with silver-gilt in floral Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 pattern Stirrups 14.25.1682 Made for Philip IV of Spain French, about 1740 Private collection Bronze and gilt Théodore Géricault Rogers Fund, 1904 French, 1791-1824 Knee Pieces for Berlin Harness 04.3.1472, 1473 Cheval French, 18th centurv Oil on paper laid on canvas Leather with ormolu and brass Saddle Lent by Galerie Claude Bernard, Inc. hardware; knee pieces of red velvet Italian, about 1450 New York with red silk tassels; lion and tulip Covered with plates of bone carved in decorative motifs an intricate pattern presenting St. J. Willis Good Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, George and the Dragon, the Labors of British, 19th centurv New York, Gift of Mrs. lames A. Hercules, mythical monsters, with Equestrian Statuette Keillor traces of color in which the design was Silver painted Presented to Henry Selbv Lowndes Child's Riding Boots Rogers Fund, 1904 Lent bv the Right Honorable English, about 1845 04.3.250 Lady Leigh Boots of red Moroccan leather embroidered with the coat of arms of 31 the Prince of Wales; gold spur and Mu^ie Khosrow Displays His Skill in spur box in each heel German, about 1560 Hunting Lent by John Lobb Iron with traces of tinning Indian, 18th century Gift of Stephen V. Grancsay, 1942 Ink, colors, and gold on paper Stirrup 42.50.532 Folio 81a from a manuscript of Spanish, 16th century Khosrow and Shirm, the second poem Iron The Temple Gwathmey Memorial of the Khamseh of Amir Khosrow Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 Steeplechase Handicap Cups Dihlavi 14.25.1757b American, 1936, 1937 Gift of Alexander Smith Cochran, 1913 Sterling silver, engraved "Won by 13.228.24 Musketeer Spurs Greentree Stable 'Sailor Beware' French, 17th century 1936" and "Won by 'Jungle King' Stirrup for Sidesaddle Iron 1937" Red leather and silver plate Lent by Musée de la Chaussure et Made by Black, Starr and Frost- Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, d'Ethnographie Régionale de Romans Gorham, Inc., New York New York, Museums Collection Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney Rou'eied Spurs Stirrups French, 17th century Spurs French, 16th century Tinned steel Arabic, 19th centurv Iron Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 Iron ornamented with semi-precious Used in tournaments 14.25.1702ab stones Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris Hunting Belt and Dagger French, 18th century Gilded metal, leather, and steel Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris

32 Alfred de Dreux Spurs Prick Spur French, 1810-60 Argentinian, 19th century Northern European, A.D. lst-2nd Amazone devant le Château de Silver-plated iron centuries Pierrefonds Lent bv the Hermès Collection, Paris Bronze Oil on canvas The first spur was essentially a thorn Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris Stirrups bound to the heel; in these early metal French, First Empire, 1st quarter 19th spurs the sides had not yet been Stirrups century developed. French, Second Empire, Gilded metal Gift of Thomas E. Kirbv, 1921 mid-19th century Lent by the Hermes Collection, Paris 21.183.3 Gilded iron Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris Artist L'nknown Trophy for the Delaware Steeplechase French (?), late 17th centurv and Race Association, Leonard Spurs Horse Richards Stakes for Three-Year-Olds Spanish, 17th century Bronze American, 1951 Polished steel Gift of Ogden Mills, 1924 Sterling silver, engraved "One mile and Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 24.212.22 a furlong, 122 lbs. Presented by 14.25.1723ab Donald P. Ross, Esq.; Winner Hall of Muzzle Fame, 'Shut Out-Big Event' Trainer Stirrups Greek, 4th centurv John Gaver, Owner Greentree Stable, French, 18th century Brome Jockey Theodore Atkinson, time Brass and gilt Gift of I. Pierpont Morgan, 1917 1:50 4/5" Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 17.190.2074 Made by Gorham 14.25.1754ab Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitnev

33 Spurs Spurs Stirrups Argentinian, 19th century French, early 17th century Western European, about 1725-50 Iron and brass Steel and gold Bronze and gold Designed in a Louis XIV style Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 Bashford Dean Memorial Collection, Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris 14.25.1730ab Bashford Dean Memorial Fund, 1972 1972.94.1 Spurs Woman's Riding Boot European, 15th century French, 20th century Man's Riding Boot Brass Boot of mahogany-colored calf; boot French, 20th century Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris tree of beechwood Boot of black calf with back zipper; Lent by John Lobb boot tree of beechw-ood Stirrups Lent by John Lobb French, about 1550 Figure of a Horse Iron Chinese, T'ang Dynasty, about 8th Spurs Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 century Scottish, 19th century 14.25.1759 Earthenware with "three-color" glaze Silver plate Seymour Fund, 1951 Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris Stirrups 51.66 Russian, 19th century Iron Figure of a Horse The lower part, when reversed, could Chinese, T'ang Dynasty, about 8th be used as a measure for grain or century gunpowder. Earthenware with "three-color" glaze Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris The E. C. Converse Collection, Bequest of Edmund Cogswell Converse, 1921 21.175.37 34 Tweed Gallery Woman's Riding Jacket Woman's Riding Habit (clockwise) English or American, 1930 English, about 1940 Hacking jacket of brown wool cavalry Jacket of brown-and-beige Prince of twill Wales plaid; of tan wool Gift of Mrs. John Sherman Cooper, Label: H. Huntsman 6k Sons, 11 Savile 1978 Row, London 1978.358.2 Lent by Mrs. Alan Corey

Woman's Riding Hat Herbert Haseltine American, about 1930 American, 1877-1962 Hat of brown felt Suffolk Punch Lent bv Dr. Joseph Stuart Bronze with green patina Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney Artist Unknown British, 2nd half 19th century Woman's Riding Habit Man on Horseback with a Greyhound American, about 1925 Oil on canvas Coat and breeches of brown wool twill Bequest of , 1975 woven in stripes 1976.201.20 Gift of Mrs. L. W. Potter, 1955 X55.11ab Man's Informal Riding Apparel English, dated February 19, 1931 Robert Henri Jacket of brown, tan, and beige wool American, 1865-1929 tweed F. Ambrose Clark Label: Bernard Weatherhill, London Oil on canvas Lent by The Brooklyn Museum, New York 35 Purchase, Stephen C. Clark, Jr., Gift, Man's Informal Riding Habit Woman's Riding Habit 1982 American, 1937 French, 1928 1982.218 Jacket of black, grey, and white wool Coat and breeches of charcoal-grey tweed; jodhpurs of grey wool wool twill Woman's Riding Habit Label: F. L. Dunne 6k Co. Label: Busvines 6k Co., Paris, rue English, 1916 Lent by The Brooklyn Museum, Pierre Charron 48 Coat, breeches, and apron skirt of New York Gift of Mrs. Frank Farley, 1945 brown wool twill CI 45.61.6ab Label: J. A. Dunn 6k Co., London Woman's Hunting Habit for the Gift of Mrs. L. Gordon Campbell, Piedmont Hunt, Virginia George Stubbs 1950 English, 1950s British, 1724-1806 CI 50.76. labe Jacket of navy-blue wool twill; silver The Bay Arab in a and copper buttons with relief of fox Landscape, 1779 Woman's Riding Habit head, inscribed "PH" Oil on panel English, 3rd quarter 20th century Label: Huntsman, 11 Savile Row, Lent by Bill Blass Coat and sidesaddle skirt of brown- London and-black wool herringbone tweed Lent by Mrs. A. C. Randolph Woman's Riding Habit Lent by Her Grace the Duchess of English, about 1933-40 Marlborough Coat and apron skirt of brown Prince of Wales plaid wool Charles Cary Rumsey Label: Roberts 6k Carroll, 9 Cork St., American, 1879-1922 London Wl Pizarra, about 1914 Lent by the National Museum of Bronze American History, Washington, D. C. Lent by Charles Cary Rumsey Sculptures, Inc.

36 Ben Marshall Label in skirt: Roberts 6k Carroll, Ltd., Simon Elwes British, 1767-1835 London British, 20th century The Honorable Peniston Lamb with Gift of Mrs. Frederick H. Prince, Jr., Portrait of Sir Richard Sykes, 7th His Horse Assassin and His Dog 1978 Baronet of Sledmore, 1936 Tanner 1978.329. labe Oil on canvas Oil on canvas Lent bv the Royal Academy of Arts, Lent by the Panshanger Collection, Man's Informal Riding Apparel London Avon, England English, dated 1927 Jacket of grew beige, and rust wool Franklin B. Voss Woman's Riding Habit tweed with purple vertical stripe; worn American, 20th centurv English, 1930s with jodhpurs Easter Hero with Groom, 1929 Coat and apron skirt of brown-and- Label: Bernard Weatherhill, Ltd., Oil on canvas white wool tweed Conduit St., London Lent bv Mrs. John Hay Whitney Label: Roberts 6k Carroll, 9 Cork St., Lent by The Brooklyn Museum, London Wl New York Herbert Haseltine Lent by Mrs. M. J. Hayes American, 1877-1962 Woman's Riding Apparel Mr. John Hay Whitne\ at Age Nine Woman's Riding Habit American, about 1927 on His Pony, 1911 English, jacket about 1937, skirt dated Hacking jacket of green wool Harris Bronze November 8, 1948 tweed; jodhpurs of tan wool twill Lent bv Mrs. John Hay Whitnev Jacket of brown-and-white wool Lent by the National Museum of herringbone tweed crossbarred in red; American History, Washington, D. C. sidesaddle skirt and breeches of russet wool twill

37 Woman's Riding Habit American, 1930s Coat, breeches, and apron skirt of charcoal-grey and white wool herringbone tweed Label: Delia, Cochran, Kines, Washington, D. C. Lent by Blue Ridge Farms

Woman's Riding Habit English, about 1940 Jacket of blue-and-green lovat tweed; jodhpurs of tan wool Label: H. Huntsman 6k Sons, 11 Savile Row, London Lent by Mrs. Alan Corey

G. Muss-Arnolt American, 19th century Meadow Brook Hunt, Old Westbury Pond, with a key to the participants, 1885 Oil on canvas Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mr. August Belmont IV, 1978

38 Ramp Gallery Man's Coat Buffalo Bill's Jacket, Hat, and (clockwise) American, early 19th century Gauntlets Buckskin decorated with quill American, about 1900 embroidery and self-fringe Buckskin with beaded ornamentation; Purchase, Museum of Costume Art, hat of grey felt 1942 The earliest photograph of Buffalo Bill CI 42.88 wearing this jacket is from 1901; he wore this stvle of hat for thirty years. Man's Coat Lent bv The Buffalo Bill Historical American (New England), about 1835 Center, Cody, Wyoming Deerskin decorated with pastel silk embroidery and self-fringe Cowboy Costume Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, American, about 1920 1975 Red wool , brown wool trousers 1975.206.3a woven in the California check; Stetson hat of silver-belly beaver felt; belt, Man's Riding Coat cuffs, boots, and spurs inscribed with American, 1785-1806 the "Lazy ID" brand; of angora Buckskin, fringed and embroidered goatskin Thought to have bc*en worn by Dr. "Lazy ID" was the brand of Wyoming John Peter Le Maveur, one of George- rancher Larry Larom; New York-born Washington's dentists and Princeton-educated, Larom went Lent by the Valentine Museum, West with Winthrop Brooks (of Richmond, Virginia Brooks Brother The angora chaps were made tor E. V. Robertson, a rancher who became a United States Senator from Wyoming 39 Lent by The Buffalo Bill Historical Man's Gaucho Costume Jacket, pants, and made for Center, Cody, Wyoming Argentinian, 20th century Mrs. John F. Kennedy Coat and trousers of charcoal-grey Chaps and boots lent by Count Luis de Man's Charro Costume wool; gold and silver buttons; black- Romanones Mexican, 20th century and-white wool ; black silk ; Jacket, vest, and trousers of black wool black leather belt with silver Man's Circassian Costume trimmed with white leather appliqué; ornaments and silver coins; silver Russian, 20th century black silk shirt, black felt sombrero; knife; black leather boots with silver Coat of handwoven black wool with grey snakeskin belt and holsters; low- spurs; rawhide boleadoras; black leather ivory-tipped wooden cartridges; riding boots of black leather with spurs and bridle with silver ornaments; black felt trousers of navy-blue wool; black silk spur straps; serape of wool and silk in hat shirt; black astrakhan hat; white wool multicolored striped tapestry pattern Lent by Mary Moore Little hood; leather belt; ivory-handled The charro was the riding costume of dagger; black leather boots the gentleman landowner as well as of Balthus This type of costume was adopted by the hacienda cowboy. It probably French, born 1908 the Cossacks in 1870 evolved from the of Salamandan La Caserne, 1933 Gift of Mrs. Melanie Mussayassul, in origin worn in colonial Mexico Oil on canvas memory of her husband Halil-beg Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Henry Rogers Private collection Mussayassul, 1957 Benjamin, 1965 CI 57.26a-cc CI 65.33.262-s Feria Riding Apparel Spanish, 1966 Woman's Riding Jacket Man's Charro Costume Jacket of red velvet trimmed with American, 1920s Mexican, 20th century black passementerie; grey-and-black Sleeveless jacket of natural linen Jacket, vest, and trousers of tan leather striped gaucho pants; white cotton Gift of Mrs. Andrew E. Beer, 1972 chamois trimmed in white leather blouse trimmed with Valenciennes 1972.247.8 Gift of Edward Larocque Tinker, 1952 lace; chaps and boots of brown tooled CI 52.41.3abc leather 40 Pony Basket Phaeton Lent bv The Brooklvn Museum, Woman's Summer Riding Hat American (?), about 1895 New York French, about 1910 Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, of natural straw with attached New York, Bequest of Mrs. Marion Woman's Riding Habit monocle Shorter, 1966 English, about 1905 Worn by Madame la Princesse Joachim Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of cream Murat Woman's Riding Habit wool gabardine Label: Motsch, Paris American (?), about 1910-15 Label: J. Busvine 6k Co., 4 Brook St., Lent bv Musée de la Mode et du Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of white London N.W. Costume, Paris linen Lent by Mrs. William H. Able Smith Lent by The Brooklyn Museum, Woman's Riding Boots New York Woman's Riding Habit English, about 1900 American, about 1914-15 Boots in Newmarket style of white Woman's Riding Hat Jacket and divided skirt of natural linen boxcloth and tan leather French, about 1900 Label: Gimbel Brothers Worn bv Madame la Princesse Joachim Bowler of natural straw trimmed with Gift of Mrs. M. Renfrew Bradner, 1979 Murat black velvet 1979.143.lab Label: R. Thomas and Sons, 5 St. Label: Motsch 6k Laureau, 42 Ave de James's Street, London l'Almo, Paris Woman's Riding Habit Lent bv Musée de la Mode et du Lent by Musée de la Mode et du American, about 1916 Costume, Paris Costume, Paris Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of white linen Woman's Riding Habit Woman's Sporting Apparel Gift of Mrs. W. H. Chamberlain, 1940 American, about 1920 English, about 1900 CI 40.69.5ab Coat and breeches of tan-colored Skirt, breeches, and of tan cotton twill suede with boned vest of off-white Label: "Rutstutt," Abercrombie and wool crossbarred in brown and red Fitch, West 36th St. (New York) 41 Gift of Mrs. Lyall Dean, Mrs. Borden Helmer, and Estate of Bliss Reed Crocker, in memory of Mrs. William Reed Thompson and Mrs. Edward Bliss Reed, 1965 CI 65.22.3ab

Woman's Summer Riding Habit American, about 1920 Belted jacket and breeches of natural linen Gift of Mrs. James Orme, 1941 CI41.83.18ab

42 Sporting Gallery Paul Brown Tu eed, about 1910-12 (clockwise) American, 1893-1958 Bronze International Field, Meadow Brook Lent by Charles Cary Rumsev Club, 1939 Sculptures, Inc. Lithograph Lent bv Mrs. John Hay Whitnev Herbert Haseltine American, 1877-1962 Marietta Cotton Cotter Polo Pony American, 20th centurv Bronze Mr. Winston Guest as a Polo Player Lent bv Mrs. John Hay Whitnev Oil on canvas Lent by Mrs. Winston Guest Polo for the Greentree Polo Team Wooden Horse for Polo Practice American, about 1937 American, 20th centurv Watermelon-pink wool knit Lent by Mr. and Mrs. Thomas embroidered with a tree; number 4 Hitchcock appliquéd on back Worn bv Mr. John Hav Whitney Polo Apparel and Accoutrement Lent bv Mrs. John Hav Whitney American, 20th centurv Jersey, breeches, boots, spurs, knee Raymond P. R. Neilson pads, , whip, and mallet American, 20th centurv Lent bv Mrs. George H. Bostwick Portrait of John Hay Whitney in Polo Togs Holding a Dog Named Charles Carv Rumsev "Chilly," 1937 American, 1879-1922 Oil on canvas Polo Player on Pony—Harrison Lent by Mrs. John Hav Whitney 43 Photographs of 1935 and 1936 Open International Ribbons Trap Championship Polo Team and Horses 20th century American, 1891 Lent by Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Lent by the United States Equestrian Made by Troy Carriage Works, Troy, Hitchcock Team, Inc. New York Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Olympic Gold Medals for the U.S. Olympic New York, Gift of Miss Katherine American, 1984 Equestrian Team Thayer Hobson, 1953 Won by Touch of Class and Joe Fargis American, 1984 and the U.S. Equestrian Team for the Coat of red wool with blue wool collar Man's Coaching Coat Individual Jumping and Team Jumping trimmed with white piping; team shield English, dated January 22, 1968 Competitions, Games of the XXIIIrd appliqué Great coat and cape of dark-green Olympiad Label: Miller's, New York wool trimmed with matching velvet; Lent by Joe Fargis Lent by Joe Fargis buttons of mother-of-pearl, each engraved with different coaching scene Steinkraus Jumping Saddle Linwood Palmer Label: Huntsman and Sons, 11 Savile French, 20th century American, 19th century Row, London Wl Leather Wagonette Break and Hunting Scene, Lent by Mr. and Mrs. John M. William C. Steinkraus is chairman of John Townsend, Whip, about 1895 Seabrook the U.S. Equestrian Team and was Oil on canvas until 1984 the only American rider to Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Man's Coaching Daywear have won an individual gold medal for New York, Gift of Mrs. Lida F. English, dated January 5, 1967 jumping. This saddle was made by Bloodgood, 1957 Driving coat of blue wool, with blue Hermès to his specifications velvet collar; buttons of mother-of- Lent by Hermès of Paris, Inc., Skeleton Wagon Speed Vehicle pearl, each engraved with a different New York American (?), about 1890 coaching scene Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Label: Huntsman and Sons, 11 Savile New York, Museums Purchase, 1953 Row, London Wl 44 Lent bv Mr. and Mrs. John M. contains all the clothing and a top hat and a bowler; inscribed Seabrook accessories for riding sidesaddle. "NW" Made by "Aux Etats Unis," 229 rue Lent by Mr. Charles Whitehouse Postilion Harness St. Honoré, Paris English, 20th centurv Lent by Irene de Kwiatkowski Rawlings Boots Black patent leather with pigskin English, 20th century saddle; silver-plated hardware bearing Straw Collars Black leather with flesh-colored tops the royal monogram "CC" American, about 1900 Made for Edward VIII of England Made for King Carol of Rumania by Part of the appointments of a road Lent by Jeremy Hackett Champion 6k Wilson coach Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Boot Case New York, Gift of Mrs. Ward Melville, New York, Gifts of Mr. Charles British, 20th century 1953 Vanderveer III, 1967, and Mrs. Paul Leather; with accessories Moore Made by Propert's of London Ceremonial Harnesses Originally belonged to Mr. Robert B. French, about 1870 East Williston Young of Westbury, Long Island Black leather with silver ornaments American, about 1895 Lent by Mr. and Mrs. James L. Young Made for the occasion of the wedding Made by Valentine, Hempstead, of Mlle de Mortemart to the Due New York Man's Boots (in Boot Case) d'Uzés and bearing the coats of arms of Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, British, 1936 both houses New York, Museums Collection, 1964 Black calf with mahogany tops Lent by M. le Marquis de Brissac Label: Peal and Co., Wigmore Street, Hat Case London Two Trunks English, about 1925 Lent bv Frank C. Richardson French, 20th century Leather lined in beige silk; holds both One trunk contains the lady's sidesaddle and accoutrement; the other 45 Sulky Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, J. H. Beard American, about 1905 New York, Gift of Mrs. Frederick American, late 19th century Made by Peck 6k Lines, Bridgeport, Johanns, 1979 Jerome Park Race Track, about 1866 Connecticut Oil on canvas Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Wicker Sleigh Lent by the National Museum of New York, Museums Purchase, 1953 American, about 1900 Racing, Saratoga Springs, New York Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Racing Silks: Colors of Mr. J. Bonvié New York, Gift of Mr. Ward Melville, Uniform for an Ecuyer du Cadre Noir French, about 1835 1971 de l'Ecole Nationale d'Equitation de Jacket and cap of purple and yellow Saumur, France silk stitched together in stripes Man's Coaching Coat French, 20th century Worn by the jockey V. Prévôt American, late 19th century Tunic of black wool gabardine with Lent by Mrs. Lillian Williams Cutaway coat of dark olive-green wool; brass buttons; gold epaulettes; bicorne brass buttons engraved with the hat of beaver felt with French cockade; Herbert Meyer insignia of the New York Coaching white wool gabardine breeches; black American Club boots with gold spurs Park Drag, Judge William Moore, Gift of Jessie Leonard Hill, 1979 The Cadre Noir is one of the very few- Whip, about 1900 1979.152.3 schools that practice the principles of Colored lithograph classical riding as they were developed Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Park Gate Gig in the 16th century. New York, Gift of Mrs. Paul Moore American, about 1900 Lent by Col. de Saint André, Col. Made by the Colfax Manufacturing Durand, Mme Bouchet, M. Robert Dos-a-Dos Company, South Bend, Indiana American, about 1900 Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, Made by Brewster 6k Co., New York New York, Gift of Mrs. Byford Ryan, 1956

46 Gaia Accoutrement for the Cadre Officer's Boot and Spur Noir de l'Ecole Nationale French, Second Empire, mid-19th d'Equitation de Saumur, France century French, 20th century Black leather and metal Saddle of white suede with gold Designed for the officers of Emperor stirrups; saddle blankets and ribbons Napoleon III of red amarante wool and metallic gold Lent by Musée de la Chaussure et galloon; double , one of leather, d'Ethnographie Régionale de Romans one of red wool Lent by the Ecole Nationale d'Equitation de Saumur, France

Uniform for a Rider of the Spanish Riding School, Vienna Austrian, 20th century Coat of dark-brown wool twill with brass buttons; white leather breeches with black leather jackboots and black hat Lent by the Spanische Hofreitschule, Vienna

47 Racing-Silks Gallery Sir Alfred J. Munnings Racing Silks: Colors of M. A. Lupin (clockwise) British, 1878-1959 French, 1930s Before the Start Jacket of black silk satin; cap of red Oil on panel silk satin Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney Label in jacket: Au Petit Matelot, 27 Ave de le Gde Armée, Paris Sir John Lavery Label in hat: Hermès Frères, Selliers, British, 1856-1941 24 Faubourg Ste Honoré, Paris "Weighing In"—Sandown Park Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour Oil on canvas l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney en France, Paris

Jockey's Weighing Chair Racing Silks: Colors of Claiborne British, mid-19th century Farm Wood American, 1984 Lent by Captain Tryon Antiques, Jacket and cap of golden-yellow Peter Bradley and Larry Dupuis synthetic satin Label: Silks Unlimited, Lexington, Sir Alfred J. Munnings Kentucky British, 1878-1959 Lent by , Paris, Two Race Horses Walking Down Kentucky Past the Post, 1935 Oil on canvas Racing Silks: Colors of M. Edmond Bequest of Joan Whitney Payson, 1975 Blanc 1976.201.21 French, about 1900 Jacket of orange silk satin; cap of navy- blue silk satin 48 Label in jacket: M. Durand, The horse, which belonged to Mr. Racing Silks: Colors of the Comte de Maisons-Laffitte William Astor, was foaled in 1877 and Lastours Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour called Ferncliff French, mid-20th century l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux Gift of Mrs. Vincent Astor, 1964 Jacket of white nylon satin with en France, Paris 64.248 appliquéd stripes of blue nylon satin; cap of blue silk Racing Silks: Colors of Henry Racing Silks: Colors of M. Botrin Label in jacket: Au Petit Matelot, 27 Carnegie Phipps French, mid-20th century Ave de le Gde Armée, Paris American, 1984 Jacket of brown synthetic satin; cap of Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour Jacket of purple nylon with yellow- red synthetic satin l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux nylon sleeves; cap of yellow nylon Label in jacket: M. Durand, en France, Paris Label: Thyben's Saddlery, Elmont, Maisons-Laffitte New York Label in cap: Au Petit Matelot, 27 Ave Racing Silks: Colors of Ogden Mills Lent by Miss Cynthia Phipps de le Gde Armée, Paris Phipps Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour American, 1984 Racing Silks: Colors of M. Edmond l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux Jacket of black nylon with red nylon Dugué MacCarthy en France, Paris collar and cuffs; red nylon cap French, about 1900 Label: Thyben's Saddlery, Elmont, Jacket and cap cover of white satin Racing Silks: Colors of John A. New York trimmed with green Morris Lent by Lent by Musée des Arts de la Mode, American, 3rd quarter 20th century Paris Jacket and cap of red synthetic satin Racing Silks: Colors of Thomas Label: Hand made by Ted Legere Hitchcock, Sr. Isidore-Jules Bonheur Lent by Mr. John A. Morris American, mid-20th century French, 1827-1901 Jacket of emerald-green synthetic satin; Jockey on a Horse Bronze 49 matching cap of silk satin trimmed Label in cap: Au Petit Matelot, 27 Ave Racing Silks: Colors of with metallic gold tassel de la Gde Armée, Paris American, 1984 Lent by Mrs. Louise H. Stephaich Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour Black nylon jacket; red nylon cap l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux Label: Thyben's Saddlery, Elmont, Herbert Haseltine en France, Paris New York American, 1877-1962 Lent by Ogden Phipps Cherry Pie, 1924 Racing Silks: Colors of the Baron Guy Bronze de Rothschild Elisabeth Frink Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney French, 1984 British, born 1930 Jacket of blue silk satin; cap of yellow- Resting Horseman, 1984 Racing Silks: Colors of Sir John Astor silk satin Bronze, artist's cast English, 3rd quarter 20th century Label: Hermès—Paris Lent by Elisabeth Frink Jacket of pale-green nylon with Lent by the Baron Guy de Rothschild synthetic pink appliquéd diagonal Milton Menasco stripes; cap of darker pink nylon Racing Silks: American Colors of American, 20th century Label in jacket: D. Gilbert 6k Son, Greentree Stable and , 1953 Racing Saddlers, New Market, London American, 3rd quarter 20th century Oil on canvas mounted on masonite Label in cap: Gibson (Saddlers) Ltd., Watermelon-pink synthetic satin with Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney New Market, London appliquéd stripes of black synthetic Lent by Sir John Astor fabric on sleeves; cap of black nylon John Frederick Herring, Sr. Labels: Thyben's Saddlery, Elmont, British, 1795-1865 Racing Silks: Colors of Marcel New York Margrai'e with James Robinson Up, Boussac Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney 1833 French, 3rd quarter 20th century Oil on canvas Jacket of orange synthetic satin; cap of Lent by the Yale Center for British beige velvet Art, New Haven, Paul Mellon Collection 50 Herbert Haseltine Racing Silks: Colors of Thomas Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour American, 1877-1962 Hitchcock, Sr. l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux Horse, 1911 American, 2nd quarter 20th centurv en France, Paris Bronze Jacket of emerald-green silk satin; Lent by the National Museum of matching cap of silk satin trimmed Charles Carv Rumsev Racing, Saratoga Springs, New York with metallic gold tassel American, 1879-1922 Lent by Mrs. Louise H. Stephaich Good and Plenty, 1907 Racing Silks: Colors of the Wheatley Bronze Stables Racing Silks: Colors of the Vicomte Lent by Charles Cary Rumsey American, 1984 Daru Sculptures, Inc. Jacket of yellow nylon with purple French, mid-20th centurv nylon sleeves; cap of purple nylon Jacket of orange >vnthetic satin with Racing Silks: Colors of the Earl of Label: Thyben's Saddlery, Elmont, black satin sleeves; cap of black satin Derby New York Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour English, 1984 Lent by Miss Cynthia Phipps l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux Black nylon satin jacket; white nylon en France, Paris cap Racing Silks: Colors of His Grace the Label in jacket: Newmarket Brand Duke of Devonshire Racing Silks: Colors of the Baron de Lent by the Right Honorable Earl of English, 3rd quarter 20th centurv Nexon Derby. M.C. Jacket and cap of pale-yellow synthetic French, about 1900 satin Jacket of green silk satin; cap of red Racing Silks: Colors of Admiral Rous Label: D. Gilbert 6k Son, Racing silk satin English, miel-19th century Saddlers, New Market, London Label in jacket: Janine, Casaques et Jacket of multicolored silks patched in Lent by His Grace the Duke of Toques, 30 Avenue de Lonnueil, a harlequin pattern Devonshire Maisons-Laffitte Worn bv the Honorable H. J. Admiral Rous (1791-1877), Senior Steward of

51 The Jockey Club for twenty-five years Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour Label in jacket: Au Petit Matelot, 27 1 ent by The Jockey Club, Newmarket, l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux Ave de la Gde Armée, Paris England en France, Paris Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux Racing Silks: Colors of Greentree Racing Silks: Colors of Thomas en France, Paris Stable Hitchcock, Sr. English, 3rd quarter 20th century American, 2nd quarter 20th century Racing Silks: Colors of the Comte de Jacket of watermelon-pink synthetic- Jacket of emerald-green silk ottoman; Ganay satin with black-and-white striped matching cap of silk satin trimmed French, about 1900 sleeves; white silk cap with metallic gole! tassel Jacket of yellow silk satin; cap of green Label: D. Gilbert 6k Son Racing Lent by Mrs. Louise H. Stephaich silk satin Saddlers, Newmarket Label: George Parker 6k Sons, Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney Racing Silks: Colors of the Baron Saddlers, Upper St. Martins Lane, Alexis de Rede London WC2 Herbert Haseltine French, 3rd quarter 20th centurv Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour American, 1877-1962 Jacket of orange silk satin with white- l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux Easter Hero, 1931 satin sleeves; cap of black velvet with en France, Paris Bronze with gilt patina on marble base metallic gold tassel Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitnev Label: Hermès—Paris Racing Silks: Colors of Hickory Tree Lent by the Baron Alexis de Rédé Stable Racing Silks: Colors of the Baron de English. 1984 Rothschild Racing Silks: Colors of the Baron lacket of green svnthetic satin with French, 2nd quarter 20th centurv Finot yellow satin appliquéd on sleeves in Jacket of blue silk satin; cap of yellow- French, 3rd quarter 20th centurv checked pattern; diagonal yellow satin silk satin Jacket of brown nylon satin; cap of red appliquéd stripe from left to right Label in jacket: Hermes Sport, Paris nylon

52 Label: Frost Saddlery, Bawtry, realized by Hector Pascual for the play Whitney Memorial Steeplechase Cup Dorcester, England Equus by Peter Shaffer, performed at American, 1916 Lent by Hickory Tree Stable, the Théâtre de l'Athénée-Louis Jouvet, Sterling silver, engraved "Handicap for Middleburg, Virginia Paris, with stage design by John Dexter four-year-olds and upward; about two Lent by Pierre Berge and a half miles; won by: Green tree Racing Silks: Colors of the Frederick Stable's Syosset II, 1916" Prince Family John Skeaping Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney American, about 1900 British, born 1901 Jacket of purple silk satin with Zanzibar appliquéd stripes of yellow silk satin; Bronze cap of purple silk satin piped with Lent by Julian Seymour, London yellow- satin; black silk satin breeches Label in cap: Dunlap 6k Company New York Racing Association Cup, Lent by The Brooklyn Museum, The New York Second Division New York American, 1978 Sterling silver, engraved "Belmont Sir Alfred J. Munnings 1978 won by Greentree Stable's 'Late British, 1878-1959 Bloomer'" Newmarket Incident: The Runawas, Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney 1954 Oil on canvas mounted on board Alexander Phimister Proctor Private collection American, 1862-1950 Morgan Stallion, about 1913 Theatrical Horse Heads Bronze French, 1977 Bequest of Jacob Ruppert, 1939 Made of wicker with metallic tape and 39.65.61 leather. Designed by John Napier and 53 Credits Music List Strauss, Johann: "Tales from the Vienna Woods" Purcell: "Fanfare" Tchaikovsky: "Capriccio Italien" Mozart: "Allegro" from Horn Concerto (excerpts) in D Major, K. 412 Grofé: "On the Trail" from The Grand Berlioz: "The Royal Hunt" and Canyon Suite "Storm" from Les Troyens Strauss, Johann: "The Radetzky Boiling: "Galop" (excerpt) from Suite March" for Cello and Jazz Piano "Music for Hunting Horn: 1561- Walton: "Johannesburg Festival 1840" (excerpts) Overture" (excerpt) "Forty-seven Coach Horn Tunes" Copland: "Hoedown" from Rodeo (excerpts) Randolf: "How Could Red Riding Haydn: "Horn Signal" from Symphony Hood" No. 31 in D Major Weber: "Huntsman's Chorus" from Mozart, Leopold: "Musical Sleigh Der Freischütz Ride" (excerpt) Tchaikovsky: "The Seasons" Mouret: "Symphonies: Second Suite" Suppe: "The Light Cavalry Overture" (excerpts) (excerpt) Strauss, Johann, Sr.: "Einzugs-Galopp" Strauss, Richard: "Allegro" from Horn Grainger: "Country Gardens" Concerto No. i in E-Flat Verdi: Don Carlos (excerpt from Act III) Mozart: "The Hunt Quartet," K. 458 Bach: "Gigue" from French Suite No. 5 in G Major Glass: "Glassworks" (excerpt) Stravinsky: "Introduction" from The Rite of Spring 54 Acknowledgments We are deeply grateful to the following Vogel Boots organizations and individuals for Wiener Laces Our special thanks go to the following material generously donated to the Zafero Studios, Inc. for their assistance in preparing and exhibition: Scent: Habit Rouge, Guerlain, Paris installing the exhibition: Music Arrangement: Laura Harth, CBS Abraham 6k Strauss Records Mr. and Mrs. Michael Ballentine Alexander's, Inc. 100% Belgian Linen provided by Simon Blow B. Altman 6k Co. International Linen Promotion Mme Bouchet The Arrow Companv Commission Carlie Cleveland Barney's New York Window Pane printed on linen Jean-Louis Dumas Brunschwig 6k Fils, Inc. designed by Alan Londin Joe Fargis and the United States Canthus, Inc. Bows, ropes, and ribbons for paintings Equestrian Team Capezio Ballet Makers, Inc. designed by Mario Buatta Merri Ferrell Alexsander Danel International Sidesaddle Organization T. O. Dey Douglas Kwart Eiser's Riding Equipment Mme J.-C. le Bourhis Hindsgaul (USA) Inc. Dain Marcus J.C.J. Stable Laurent Momeja H. Kauffman 6k Son Saddlery Company Thomas Ryder M. J. Knoud Mr. and Mrs. John M. Seabrook Miller's Mrs. James Asa Shield M. J. M. Studios Robin Smith-Ryland Pucci Mannequin, Inc. La Société Française de Vénerie Scalamandré Silks, Inc. Linda Sylling Martin Shore Charles Whitehouse Standard Trimming Companv Walter Yetnikoff Themes, Inc. 55 Lenders to the Exhibition The Chrysler Museum Collection Hermès Claiborne Farm Hermès of Paris, Inc. David Alexander Mrs. Stephen Clark Hickory Tree Stable Musée de l'Armée Leighton Coleman Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Hitchcock III Musée des Arts de la Mode The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation Mrs. Bender Isham Sir John Astor Mrs. Alan Corey The Jockey Club, Newmarket Gene Autry Mrs. C. Suydam Cutting Thomas Johnson Captain F. G. Barker, M.F.H. José Dar H. Kauffman 6k Sons Saddlery His Grace, The Duke of Beaufort The Right Honorable Earl of Derby, Company, Inc. Madame la Comtesse Guy de Beaumont M.C. Mrs. Thomas Kempner Pierre Berge His Grace, The Duke of Devonshire Mrs. John F. Kennedy Beval's Saddlery, Ltd. Ms. Victoria Di Nardo M. J. Knoud Mrs. Beverly Birks Ms. Alexandra Duer The Kyoto Costume Institute Monsieur le Marquis Casimir de Blacas Colonel Durand, Ecuyer en chef du Ms. Denise Lee Gallery Claude Bernard, Inc. Cadre Noir de Saumur The Right Honorable Lady Leigh Bill Blass Musée de l'E.A.A.B.C. de Saumur Musée de l'Empéri Blue Ridge Farm l'Ecole Nationale d'Equitation de Mrs. Mary Moore Little Mrs. G. H. Bostwick Saumur C. G. M. Lloyd-Baker, M.F.H. Bottega Veneta Eiser's Riding Equipment John Lobb, Bootmaker Breeder's Cup, Ltd. Joe Fargis John Lobb Monsieur le Marquis de Brissac Miss Elisabeth Frink James Lock 6k Company, Ltd. The Brooklyn Museum Mrs. Louis S. Gimbel III Her Grace, The Duchess of Mrs. Edward Bucklin Mrs. Isabel T. Gray Marlborough Buffalo Bill Historical Society Mrs. Peter Billy Martin Western Wear, Inc. Chanel Mrs. Winston Guest Mademoiselle Solange de la Motte Musée de la Chaussure et Jeremy Hackett Saint Pierre d'Ethnographie Régionale de Romans Mrs. J. H. Thayer Hayes Mrs. Michael P. McDonough

56 Mrs. Francia Meiselman Baron Guy de Rothschild Swaine, Adeney, Brigg 6k Sons, Ltd. Paul Mellon Royal Academy of Arts United States Equestrian Team, Inc. Miller's, Inc. The Royal Mews, Buckingham Palace The Valentine Museum Musée de la Mode et du Costume Charles C. Rumsey, Jr. Musée du Château de Versailles Mrs. J. Maxwell Moran Charles Cary Rumsey Sculptures, Inc. Vogel Boots John A. Morris Colonel de Saint André Welsh 6k Jefferies, Ltd. John J. Allan Murphy Mr. and Mrs. John M. Seabrook Western Reserve Historical Society National Horseracing Museum at Mrs. James Asa Shield George A. Weymouth Newmarket Mr. and Mrs. Constantine Charles S. Whitehouse National Museum of Racing Sidamon-Eristoff Mrs. John Hay Whitney Newport Historical Society Mrs. John Skeaping William Wilbur Kimball Sumner Nickerson, Newport Mrs. Able Smith Mrs. Lillian Williams Polo Association Robin Smith-Ryland William Wood-Prince The Panshanger Collection Division of Costume, National Mrs. Elizabeth M. Worrall Musée du Petit Palais Museum of American History, Yale Center for British Art Walter Pfeiffer Smithsonian Institution Mr. and Mrs. James L. Young Miss Cynthia Phipps Société d'Encouragement pour Ogden Phipps l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux Ogden Mills Phipps en France Henry Poole and Companv Spanische Hofreitschule Mrs. A. C. Randolph Kurth Sprague Mrs. Irene de Kwiatkowski Rawlings Mrs. Louise H. Stephaich Baron Alexis de Rédé Mrs. Eva Steward Frank E. Richardson The Museums at Stony Brook Monsieur Robert, Bottier at Saumur Robert E. Straw-bridge, Jr. The Rockefeller Familv Dr. C. Joseph Stuart Count Luis de Romanones A. Sulka 6k Company

57 Staff of the Costume Institute Exhibition Staff Volunteers for the Installation

Jean L. Druesedow, Associate Curator in Exhibition conceived and organized by Alida Albright Charge Diana Vreeland Penelope Bareau Diana Vreeland, Special Consultant Exhibition Coordinator: Stephen Mary S. Barker Paul M. Ettesvold, Associate Curator Jamail Véronique Benard K. Gordon Stone, Associate Museum Research Associate: Katell le Bourhis Francesca Bianco Librarian Advisor to the Installation: Stephen de Carolyn Blish Judith Jerde, Associate Conservator Pietri Jill Bomze Anne H. Schirrmeister, Assistant Assistants for the Exhibition: Rose-Marie Brequet Curator Sarah Richardson, Richard DeGussi- Judy Brindisi Katell Le Bourhis, Research Associate Bogutski, Kirk Allan Adair, June Bove, Jean Brogan Lillian A. Dickler, Senior Administrative Natasha Grenfell Lucy-Jane Buhler Assistant Administrative Assistant for the Russell Bush Jeannie Lawson, Senior Administrative Exhibition: Pamela H. Osowski Cathaline Cantalupo Assistant Designers: Jeffrey Daly, David Harvey Barbara Chafkin Karen Meyerhoff, Assistant for Study Lighting: William L. Riegel Arlene Cooper Storage Antoinette Cusumano Dominick Tallarico, Principal Helen Cutting Departmental Technician Clothilde Daniel Mavis Dalton, Associate Curator, Jacqueline de la Chaume part-time Helen Di Biasio Maria Figliolia Barbara H. Finch Judith B. Flaxman Frances Fore Laura Gambieski

58 Valerie Gimbel Laura Reibrun Costume Institute Tour Guides Ellen Granick Lucy Richards Marie C. Hagen Roger Roberts Mrs. Herman Brickman Aimee Halperin Dean Rorvig Mrs. William Butler William Hamilton Sarah S. Rowe Mrs. Howard Clark, Jr. Genie Hertz Susan Salzberg Mrs. Beverley Chew Duer Svea Eleanor Holborow Jocelyn Schwartzman Mrs. Frank R. DuPuy Isabelle Isquierda Ann Selvig Mrs. Robert E. Gorman Deborah Jackson Elaine Shaub Mrs. Peter E. Guernsey- Patricia Kaplan Philip Shubin Mrs. L. Emery Katzenbach Joel Kaye Daisy Singer Mrs. Kenneth E. Rose Shula Koton Cynthia Sirko Mrs. Jules Silbert Joell Kunath Marie-Louise Slocum Mrs. Humphrey Taylor Marine le Bourhis Sylvia M. Spitzer Mrs. Michael W. Weir Denise Lee Kuniko Steel Patricia Lennox Evelyne Tanous Georgette R. Levy Wybren Terpstra Vincent Libretti Linda Velez Clinton Machado Peter Wrigley Gabriella Mariotti Michael Zabriskie Evelyn Marron Madge Miller Marisa Morra Anne Nielson David Oakes Diana Pertak Nancy Prager-Bennett 59