Afro-Eurasian Inner Dry Land Civilizations: Kick-off meeting and international workshop Nagoya/Kunming, 18.7.-4.8.2009

Project by Prof. Yoshihito Shimada, Nagoya University funded by Japan Society for the Promotion of Science

Photo-report by Dr. Michaela Pelican Post-doctoral researcher and lecturer in Anthropology University of Zurich, Switzerland Welcome to the kick-off meeting of the project ‚Afro-Eurasian Dry Land Civilizations‘ of Prof. Yoshihito Shimada, University of Nagoya Project participants

Japanese collaborators: • Oussoubi Sacko, Kyoto Seika • Ousmanou Adama, University of University Nagoya • Takashi Sakata, University of • Haiyan Bao, University of Nagoya Nagoya • Burensain Borjigin, University of • Yuiko Washio, Nara Women‘s Shiga University • Fumi Furasawa, Nara Women‘s • Kazuyuki Watanabe, Ritsumeikan University University • Kazunobu Ikeya, National Museum of Ethnology, Osaka External associates: • Kaoru Imamura, Nagoya Gakuin • Mohammed Houtia, University of University Adrar, Algeria • Shun Ishiyama, Research Institute • Pietro Laureano, Research Centre for Humanity and Nature, Kyoto on Local and Traditional • Mioko Kobayashi, University of Knowledge, Florence, Italy Nagoya • Michaela Pelican, University of • Kanako Kodama, Chiba University Zurich, Switzerland • Ikuko Nakagawara, University of • Yi Se, Bejing Normal University, Nagoya • Ryo Nakamura, Research Institute • Florian Stammler, University of for Humanity and Nature, Kyoto Lapland, Finland Photo by Miyako Takamura

The workshop (18.7.09) opens with Prof. Shimada‘s introduction and is followed by twenty presentations dealing with a range of topics, including desert irrigation, land degradation, pastoralism, sedentarisation, privatisation, identity politics, religion, music, architecture and art history. Welcome dinner at Nagoya University Restaurant Hananoki Exploring Nagoya: visit to Osu market, Sakae

Mohammed Houtia, Miyako Takamura, Michaela Pelican Osu Kannon temple Visit to Tajimi, nearby town to Nagoya Tajimi is renowned for its ceramics. In this noodle house a traditional Japanese meal is served in original Japanese ceramic dishes.

Michaela Pelican, Kaoru Imamura Kokeizan Eiho-ji garden and temple, Tajimi This is a historic Zen temple founded in 1313. In 2003 some buildings accidentally burned down and are under reconstruction. The garden is literally called „water moon place“ because of the moon‘s reflection in the pond which is populated by gold fish. Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples exist side by side; this Shinto shrine is just next to the Kokeizan Eiho-ji temple. Small Shinto shrine in a private house Shinto literally means „way of the Gods“ and is characterised by the worship of nature and ancestors. Many Japanese families have both a Shinto and Buddhist place of worship in their homes. Visit to Kyoto Kyoto is a renowned historical site and popular university town. It is roughly 150km from Nagoya and accessible from Nagoya in less than 40 minutes by Shinkansen high-speed train. Reiko Hayasaka, Michaela Pelican Kiyomizu-dera temple is one of Kyoto’s main attractions. It is located on a hill and offers a good view of the city. It includes also the Jishu shrine, popular among those in search of love. Michaela Pelican, Reiko Hayasaka, Mitsuo Ichikawa, Junko Maruyama, Akito Yasuda Dinner with colleagues after giving a presentation at the Graduate School of Asian and African Area Studies, Kyoto University (20.7.09) Excursion through to Kunming (China) to attend the 16th Congress of the International Union of Anthropological and Ethnological Sciences (IUAES) Route:

Nagoya- Bejing- by air

Hohhot- Hanggin Banner- Xi‘an by minibus

Xi‘an- Kunming by air

Kunming- Shanghai- Nagoya by air Welcome to Hohhot with an Inner Mongolian dinner and musical entertainment (22.7.09)

M. Houtia, O. Adama, musician, H. Bao, J. Matsuhira, Prof. Shimada, musician, B. Borjigin our tour guide, Mme Borjigin Desert Fun Park Xianshawan The Inner Mongolian landscape is extremely variable and includes grass savannah as well as patches of sandy desert. This area has been turned into a fun park offering various sorts of desert sports and family entertainment. Ikuko Nakagawara, Prof. Shimada, Ousmanou Adama Inner Mongolia is renowned for its camels and horses. Busloads of Chinese tourists come to Xianshawan to experience a camel ride accross the dunes. Being a practicing Muslim in China, particularly Inner Mongolia, is not easy. Mohammed Houtia and Ousmanou Adama face difficulties in performing their religious duties and observing a Muslim diet. Many of our Inner Mongolian acquaintances marvel at their piety and denial of alcohol, despite the fact that there are Muslim communities in China. Being an African in China is an attraction. Among the three of us coming from countries outside Asia (Switzerland, Algeria, Cameroon), Ousmanou Adama is clearly considered the most ‚exotic‘. While small children tend to be terrified, young Chinese frequently come up, asking to take a picture with him. Communication, however, remains limited, as most speak only a few words of English. Yellow River While traveling from Hohhot to Ordos we cross the Yellow River, one of China‘s two major rivers and considered ‚the cradle of Chinese civilization‘. Chinggis Khan: icon of Mongol civilization and identity Chinggis Khan Mausoleum, Ordos This is a true place of cultural worship. Here we meet up with the local television crew who is to document our visit to Inner Mongolia. Official reception by the local administration and Communist Party members who preside over our stay in Hanggin Banner, Inner Mongolia Inner Mongolian cultural heritage The gurduu (palace song) is sung only by the elderly and is considered part of the intangible heritage of Inner Mongolia. The song is performed for us at a small press conference organised by a local NGO promoting the preservation of Mongolian culture. Signboards are written in Chinese and . The latter is common only in Inner Mongolia, while in the neighbouring Republic of Mongolia the Cyrillic alphabet is used. Photo by Yuji Matsuhira

Visit to a pastoral home Our hosts welcome us in their reception room decorated with a Chinggis Khan wall carpet. In the neighbouring room souvenirs are displayed for sale. Obviously, tourist visits are part of their pastoral economy. Photo by Yuji Matsuhira In the Ordos region keeping horses, sheep and cashmere goats is common. However, due to land degradation and state control over land use, many pastoralists had to reduce their herd sizes and diversify their economic practices. Cultural entertainment To crown our stay in Hanggin Banner, our hosts have invited us to a holiday resort in the countryside. Together with many other invitees, we enjoy the stage performance of a Mongolian marriage tale. In addition to the cultural performance, we are treated with an exquisite dinner. To honour our visit, a sheep has been slaugthered, and Prof. Shimada has been asked on stage to symbolically slice the mutton. China‘s ancient capital Xi‘an This is the view accross the Drum Tower and Bell Tower Square in the Inner City of Xi‘an on a rainy day. Bell tower True to its name, the Bell Tower houses a massive cast bronze bell which, in historical times, was used to ring in the day, while the drums of the Drum Tower were beaten at sunset. Today, the two towers have been turned into a touristic site. While visiting the Bell Tower, we are able to attend a short musical performance of traditional Chinese instruments, including bell chimes, zither, flute and sheng (mouth organ with bamboo pipes). Great Mosque of Xi‘an This religious site is among the oldest and largest mosques in China. It was built in the 8th century, shortly after the introduction of Islam into this area by Arab merchants and travelers from Persia. It is still used by the Muslim community of Xi‘an which numbers approximately 50‘000 people, mostly members of the Hui ethnic minority. The Great Mosque stands out by is combination of Chinese architectural style with Arabic calligraphy. It contains several courtyards and gardens, and offers a calm and refreshing atmosphere in the heart of Xi‘an busy centre. View from the Small Wild Goose Pagoda Xi‘an is a large city with more than 8 mio. inhabitants. When entering the town, it takes us an hour to cross the outskirts characterised by high-rise buildings, many still under construction. The impression of dense population seems to apply to most Chinese cities. While camel transport has been replaced by bikes, motorcycles and cars, the memory of ancient civilizations is cherished and preserved. Kunming Host town of the 16th Congress of the International Union of Anthropological and Ethnological Sciences (July 27-31, 2009) Participants of the panel ‚Afro-Eurasian Inner Dry Land Civilizations’

N. Bayar, P. Laureano, Sarangerel , K. Kodama, R. Nakamura, O. Sacko, S. Ishiyama, O. Adama H. Bao, M. Pelican, K. Imamura, M. Houia, Prof. Shimada, H. Nawata, B. Borjigin Presentation by our Japanese colleague Kanako Kodama on ‚Desertification and Development in Inner Mongolia‘, a topic which we became acquainted with during our journey through Inner Mongolia. Dinner after the conference panel with regional specialities, such as Mi-xian (rice noodle soup), goat cheese, mushrooms, meat and vegetable dishes.

The Shiping Huiguan Restaurant is housed in a historic travelers’ lodge and is a reminder of Kunming’s location along the Southern Silk Road. Kunming old and new Kunming is among China‘s growing economic and touristic centres. The city centre is characterised by modern high-rise buildings, hosting business enterprises, luxury hotels and shopping malls; and occasionally interspersed with historic, wooden buildings - probably doomed to demolition in the near future. Kunming is also a university town with a considerable student population. Together with the China Union of Anthropological and Ethnological Sciences, Yunnan University and Yunnan Nationalities University host the 16th IUAES Congress. There are three mosques in Kunming‘s city centre, all of which have a restaurant with halal food. Here, our Algerian colleague M. Houtia is able to make contact with a young Chinese Islamic teacher who speaks Arabic, though a different dialect. Tea ceremony Pu-er tea is a famous product of Yunnan Province of which Kunming is the capital. In addition, there are many other varieties of dried or fermented tea to be tasted in one of the many tea shops. Enjoy it! Away from the hustle and bustle of the city, we take some fresh air and enjoy a fantastic view from the Western Hills, south-west of Kunming. Lake Dian at the foot of the Western Hills is a large inter- land lake. It impresses by its stunning green colour, resembling the jade jewelry so popular in Kunming. Thanks to:

Prof. Yoshihito Shimada, University of Nagoya, for inviting me to participate in the research project ‚Afro-Eurasian Dry Land Civilizations‘. Dr. Junko Maruyama, University of Kyoto, for inviting me to give a presentation at the Graduate School of Asian and African Area Studies. The Japan Society for the Promotion of Science (JSPS) for financing project participants‘ travels and research. All colleagues and students who facilitated my stay in Japan and China, including Ousmanou Adama, Reiko Hayasaka, Mohammed Houtia, Kaoru Imamura, Mioko Kobayashi, Yuji Matsuhira, Ikuko Nakagawara, Ryo Nakamura, Miyako Takamura, Maria Tam, Li Xueli.