CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The brise-soleil at the Parker Palm Springs; the hotel grounds; the former estate of Bob Hope; L’Horizon Resort & Spa.

HE Chris McPherson AT who arrivals meets the latest OF THE Irina Aleksander MO ME looking of pleasure-seekers waves drawing Springs that keeps What is it about Palm wild? drop out, go a little down, to slow by | Photographs again. the desert are reinventing oasis all over NT arrive, Tavi Gevinson Instagrams photos from the Saguaro, a remodeled Holiday Inn. Barack Obama has been several times in the past year and, if you believe the murmurs of the local real estate agents, is looking to buy. The only thing more fun than imagining all those people lounging around a pool together is considering what brought them here. Palm Springs Palm Springs is reachable by plane, but everyone is, after all, a town of retired showgirls and studio will say that on your first visit you should probably execs, of golf in the afternoon and oysters Rockefeller drive. There are a few reasons, the primary one at dinner, of Robert Downey Jr.’s drug arrests and being the windmills. Right before you get off the Lindsay Lohan’s trips to the nearby Betty Ford I-10, there are hundreds of them, maybe thousands. Center—a throwback to a time when people left the From afar they look like crosses on a hill, up close, breezy coastline for a seductive desert town where like plane propellers on stilts. Driving through they could disappear, rest, and be cured by the sun. the wind farm, your car begins to rattle and sway, “I could never find a place to stay before,” shoved around the road by the Santa Ana winds. John says. But now, with many hotels sold out on Preset radio stations jam and turn to static. Soon, weekends, new ones have risen. L’Horizon is you’re surrounded by 160-foot-tall, man-made the work of Steve Hermann, who’s designed homes Pmachines planted like crops across a wide expanse for film producer Megan Ellison and the Saudi of uninhabited desert. The sight, simultaneously royals. Further down the road is V Palm Springs, ominous and beautiful, makes you hold your breath. part-owned by Mark Geragos, the Armenian- But then you arrive in Palm Springs proper and American lawyer once employed by Michael Jackson. exhale. Because here is the tranquil, hot valley—a On the other side of town, Arrive Palm Springs, a strange little civilization inhabited by very tanned boutique hotel bankrolled by Ezra Callahan, the people who drive convertibles, reside in immaculate millionaire Facebook alum, is opening in early 2016. Midcentury Modern homes, and spend their days On my first day, I check in to Sparrows Lodge, a in pools with the same time and devotion that people lush compound of rustic cabins for the unfussy elsewhere commit to offices. The overall effect is traveler who has a fussy taste for aesthetics. (There like passing through a time warp and touching down are no phones or TVs, but birds on everything: in a colony left over from the 1950s. tissue boxes, hangers, Q-tip packs.) “Definitely a “This is Mars,” John says. I meet John in the shal- more youthful and affluent person is coming to low end of the pool at L’Horizon, a newly opened Palm Springs,” says Jason Perry, the hotel’s general hotel along Palm Canyon Drive. John’s hair and skin manager. “It’s someone who might spend time in are golden, his teeth and tennis visor very white. an exotic place in Europe, but they choose to come John works in men’s apparel and is one-fourth here because it has a cool factor now.” of two couples that drove in from L.A. on a steamy weekend. The women in John’s group are both PALM SPRINGS CAME ABOUT AS THE ANTIDOTE TO named Stephanie. One of the Stephanies is wearing Hollywood. In the 1920s, when studios controlled an orange bathing suit and reading a pink book. actors with lengthy contracts and strict morality (Upon closer examination: Candace Bushnell’s clauses, the stars needed a place to get away and let Killing Monica.) This Stephanie moved to L.A. loose. Palm Springs was close enough not to violate from Wall Street a year ago. “And this is our fourth the “two-hour rule”—the leashlike range actors time here,” she coos from her lounge chair. were allowed to wander from studio lots—with a John and Stephanie are part of what the locals tiny population made up mostly of Cahuilla Indians are calling the renaissance of Palm Springs. Once a and TB patients seeking relief in the dry heat. In sanctuary for the Hollywood set, the city is again 1934, the actors Charlie Farrell and Ralph Bellamy attracting the sorts of people who have the unique opened the Charles Farrell Racquet Club, and power to christen destinations and lead their soon the rest of Hollywood followed, building homes followers into the desert. Two years ago Leonardo in what became known as the Movie Colony. DiCaprio bought a home here. Last May, Nicolas This story is told to me by a man named Paul. Ghesquière, the creative director of Louis Vuitton, Paul used to run Club Trinidad, a Rat Pack hangout; staged the brand’s resort show at Bob Hope’s former estate. That same weekend Thomas Middleditch, the star of HBO’s Silicon Valley, was seen lounging by A view of the San the pool at the Parker Palm Springs. Days before I Jacinto Mountains from the Parker.

90 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Canadian photographer and Palm Springs small- business owner Jaime Kowal; the exterior of a room at L’Horizon; a house designed by the Midcentury Modern architect Donald Wexler; the El Diablo cocktail at Bootlegger Tiki; outside the Parker, which was decorated by Jonathan Adler; Athalie Laguerre, an early Facebook em- ployee and investor in Arrive hotel; the pool at the Amado hotel; Jason Perry, the general manager at the Sparrows Lodge. CENTER: A room at L’Horizon, designed by Steve Hermann.

93 now he gives tours of the city in his Chrysler Sebring convertible for $45. Bald, sturdy, and smelling of aftershave, Paul has the look of a retired mobster: khakis, loafers, and a big gold pinkie ring. We drive around with the top down and the AC blasting as their names. There is Jason Perry, the 29-year-old Paul shows me homes that belonged to Jerry Lewis, Sparrows manager, who introduces me to his friend, Clark Gable, Liz Taylor, Kirk Douglas, and Liberace. Jordan Fife. Fife grew up in Palm Springs, but left to He points to a large hillside estate. “That’s Suzanne work in the entertainment industry. He worked on a Somers’s house,” Paul says. “She invented the movie called Bride Wars starring Kate Hudson. (“It Thighmaster and made a million dollars. Now she ended up being terrible and broke my soul,” he says.) has a line of cosmetics. A very productive lady!” So eventually he came back. Now he’s the director The most striking thing about Palm Springs isn’t of development for Steve Hermann Hotels. Fife has its celebrities but the homes they’ve built here. the windmills tattooed on his right thigh, above an Between the 1940s and 60s, the area became a stag- Alfred Tennyson quote: “They came unto a land in ing ground for Modernist architects, drawn by which it seemed always afternoon.” wealthy clients and the unusual lunar terrain. “Palm Springs is like a beach city with no beach,” Richard Neutra, William Cody, John Lautner, Albert Perry says, explaining the allure. Frey, and Donald Wexler imposed a sharp geometry “We like to consider ourselves the Hamptons of onto the landscape that we’ve come to know as L.A.,” Fife adds. Desert Modernism: flat roofs, glass walls, free-form Through Perry and Fife, I meet the third J, Jaime pools. It could have all been bulldozed in the 1970s, Kowal, a 37-year-old Canadian photographer who but then the recession hit and no one bothered. In the came here on vacation three years ago and never left. 80s, the city became a sleepy retirement community, Now Kowal is the proprietor of several popular aided by then-mayor Sonny Bono, who made every- Palm Springs businesses, including the Amado hotel, thing fun illegal, including G-strings. (Really.) Ernest Coffee, and Bootlegger Tiki, a cocktail lounge In the 1990s, at the height of the AIDS crisis, gay she calls a Tikeasy. “There’s a freedom to living in men—now estimated to account for a third of the the desert,” Kowal says. “There’s no traffic. The park- city’s population—migrated to Palm Springs and ing is free. Life is easy here.” began remodeling houses. When Midcentury design So great is Kowal and her friends’ commitment to came back in style, it turned out the city had the Palm Springs that they jokingly call themselves “the world’s largest collection. Palm Springs Modernism Family.” Their latest recruit is Athalie Laguerre, Week now attracts close to 60,000 people. More an early Facebook employee and an investor in Arrive crowds began coming for the Coachella Valley Music who came to visit in 2014. Within a month, Laguerre & Arts Festival, which started in 1999. The Koch bought a home near Kowal’s and then decided to brothers, meanwhile, have held right-wing political open an artisanal ice cream shop in town. She now summits here since 2013, perhaps nostalgic for splits her time between Palm Springs and Brooklyn. the years that Ronald Reagan spent at Sunnylands. I ask Kowal, the Family’s unofficial leader, why Today’s Palm Springs is a blend of its past and there’s a sudden interest in Palm Springs. “It’s like present. Drop by Sherman’s Deli & Bakery and when there’s a really good party going on,” she says, you’re likely to encounter vacationing families and sipping, without apparent irony, a drink called transient biker gangs; Native American business- Tardy to the Party. “You want to know who’s there men and swarms of Germans, Norwegians, and and what they are talking about. Like, you have your Swedes escaping harsh winters back home; retired nose pressed to the window.” In other words: FOMO. heiresses and modern tech moguls. “You have the gays, the grays, and everyone in between,” says LIKE ANYWHERE ELSE, PALM SPRINGS HAS ITS Patrick Jordan, a real estate broker who shows rhythms. At times, it can feel like an old European me Bob Hope’s Lautner-designed spaceship of a resort where everyone is on the same daily conga house—currently on sale for $25 million— line. Mornings are for brunch at Cheeky’s (if you’re perched high above the city. the farm-to-table type) or Sherman’s (if you want a pile of lox); maybe you go on a hike or take a stroll IF THE NEW PALM SPRINGS HAS A SET OF AMBASSA- downtown and inevitably someone buys a sarong at dors, they might be the three J’s. They don’t call Trina Turk; as the heat climbs, you retreat to the pool themselves the three J’s, but I meet them in a single in said sarong and befriend the other pool people; day and the mnemonic device helps me remember in the afternoon everyone hides out in air-condition- ing for spa treatments, aloe vera application, and Afternoon at the naps; once the temperatures drop, you go for drinks Parker pool, where the waitresses wear white (Continued on page 117) tennis skirts and yel- THE DETAILS Where to stay, eat, shop, and drink, page 111 low polos that read lemonhead. T+L Take a tour of Palm Springs during a customizable T+L JOURNEY from bespoke outfitter Black Tomato. For the itinerary, go to tandl.me/journeys- JOURNEY california. To book with Black Tomato, call 844-284-0205. 95 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The brise-soleil at the Parker Palm Springs; the hotel grounds; the former estate of Bob Hope; L’Horizon Resort & Spa. heat. Uptown art galleries are aggres- After touring L’Horizon, I want to sively air-conditioned. Restaurants see the other Palm Springs, and so HE

Chris McPherson are equipped with mist-producing I drag Fife to Melvyn’s, the restaurant AT awnings that function like irrigation opened in 1975 by Mel Haber, a trans- Irina Aleksander meets who the arrivals latest OF THE systems for humans. Though there plant from Flatbush, Brooklyn. Palm are fun décor stores like A La Mod and Springs has plenty of interesting MO Modern Way, the most populated are dining options—most notably, Birba, ME looking of pleasure-seekers What is waves Springs it that about drawing keeps Palm wild? little a go out, drop down, slow to | by Photographs are the reinventing desert again. oasis all over the hat stores offering every imagin- Cheeky’s Italian-themed cousin, and able sun-shielding contraption: base- the modern Workshop Kitchen & Bar, NT ball caps, panama hats, fedoras, straw where the walls are concrete and fries (Palm Springs, continued from page 94) sunbonnets, tennis visors, etc. are cooked in duck fat. But Melvyn’s is or dinner with the people you met by There are as many pool scenes the desert’s version of Brighton Beach the pool. Rinse, repeat. in Palm Springs as there are neighbor- kitsch. There are tuxedo-clad waiters; The heat in Palm Springs is unlike hoods in New York, and each one a piano lounge called the Casablanca; that of anywhere else. Not only is it inevitably defines who you are. The and retirees in ascots dining alongside dry, but the sun here gives your skin Ace Hotel is basically a nightclub: younger people like Fife, who wears a leathery, parched tint. It doesn’t so there are DJs, pool parties, beards. a fedora. We order the steak Diane and much tickle your bare ankles as lightly Sparrows’s pool is for a more civilized watch a woman in a pink halter top en- sizzle them. At first, your body reb- but no less hip crowd. (On a Friday tertaining two older gentlemen at the els—mine broke out in a heat rash— there’s a gentleman named Gavin with bar. “Her name is Sherrie,” Fife guess- but then your muscles relax and ten- a man-bun.) At the Parker, waitresses es. “Definitely a Sherrie or a Marcia. sion thaws. As Zeb Newman, a in tennis skirts serve frozen drinks Marcia used to be a party girl, but now part-time resident and a producer on to agents speed-reading scripts. she just enjoys Chardonnay.” As we The Late Late Show with James Corden, L’Horizon, meanwhile, has the allure leave, Sherrie/Marcia is dragging her tells me, “I like the oppressive heat. of the buzzy new arrival. Not far from silver foxes onto the dance floor to I’m so fast in my life that it forces me John and the Stephanies is a couple the tune of “Sweet Caroline.” to slow down.” from Marin County. Brad wears Oak- The magic of Palm Springs is Because of its climate, Palm ley sunglasses and Bose headphones. brewed from these contradictions. Springs has typically been a seasonal Elaine is reading The Corrections. The You can have a shrimp cocktail at destination. Its population surges waiter offers a brandy made by Steven Melvyn’s or “compressed melon sal- December through April and clears Soderbergh and they seem genuinely ad” at SO.PA. It welcomes travelers out by May. “But this summer has impressed. “It’s safe to say we’re going who enjoy—or simply want to ob- been on fire,” says John Paschal, a ce- to try everything,” Brad says. serve—the wealth and debauchery lebrity photographer and 20-year True to its name, L’Horizon is a of the Hollywood set, and health tour- resident. I meet Paschal at the opening forecast of what’s coming. With rates ists who come for the climate. It’s a of his new restaurant, Eight4Nine, a starting at $605 a night, it is Palm place to be seen and to get away. large space with white patent-leather Springs’ most expensive hotel; its By week’s end, I opt for the latter. banquettes and fuchsia Louis XVI restaurant, SO.PA, is led by Giacomo Overstimulated by Palm Springs’ chairs. (A month later, Bravo’s Shahs Pettinari, an alum of El Bulli. constant sun and scene, I drop by Two of Sunset will film an episode here.) Hermann, the hotel’s owner, is very Bunch Palms, a sprawling, gated Among the guests is Bobbie Eakes, a proud of these details. In one of the resort in nearby Desert Hot Springs former All My Children star who tells suites, he points out the Forbes & where Tim Robbins’s character came me she gets through the summers Lomax light switches, the hand-sewn to hide out in Robert Altman’s The with a season pass to the Palm Springs hide rugs, and Le Labo toiletries. “All Player. At Two Bunch, cell-phone use Aerial Tramway, which travels to our sheets are Frette,” he announces. is discouraged and everyone pads the top of Mount San Jacinto, where it “We have Frette robes, Frette slippers, around in robes. The main attraction is typically 30 to 40 degrees cooler. Frette towels. Everything that is is the grotto, filled with lithium-rich Much of Palm Springs is in fact fabric is Frette. And not just Frette— mineral waters thought to have thera- designed to help visitors cope with the but top-of-the-line Frette.” peutic, mood-enhancing properties. I sign up for the Watsu—a water Travel + Leisure (ISSN 0041-2007). February 2016, Vol. 46, No. 2. Published monthly 12 times a year by Time Inc. Affluent Media shiatsu—in a small pool under a tiki Group, 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281. TRAVEL + LEISURE is a trademark of Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, registered in hut, where a Swiss woman named the U.S. and other countries. Subscription: 12 issues, $45.00; in Canada, $57.00 (publisher’s suggested price). Single copies $5.99. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Commercial Sales Agreement No. Susanne drags me around by my 40036840 (GST #129480364RT). Publications Mail Agreement 40036840. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Travel + limbs until I’m lulled into a meditative Leisure, P.O. Box 134, Stn. Main, Markham, Ontario L3P 3J5. Printed in U.S.A. Copyright ©2016 Time Inc. Affluent Media Group. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. Member of the state. As I get on the road, sitting up- Alliance for Audited Media. Subscriber Services, U.S. and Canada Direct all inquiries, address changes, subscription orders, etc., right feels like a chore. The sun is just to Travel + Leisure, P.O. Box 62160, Tampa, FL 33662-2160, or call 800-888-8728. Editorial Office, 225 Liberty Street, New York, NY 10281; 212-522-1212. Subscribers If the postal authorities alert us that your magazine is beginning to dip behind the windmills, undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within which, it occurs to me, have been spin- two years. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. Postmaster Send change of address to: ning tirelessly this entire time, usher- Travel + Leisure, P.O. Box 62730, Tampa, FL 33662-7308. ing new arrivals into the desert.

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