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Brooklyn Bound You can take Manhattan—Peter Jon Lindberg finds attitude, energy, and a refreshing counterpoint to that other borough right in his own backyard.

From November 2006 By Peter Jon Lindberg

When I first moved to New York—that is, to Manhattan—in my early twenties, I had only the vaguest conception of Brooklyn. There was Welcome Back, Kotter, I guess. Alvy Singer, growing up under the Cyclone in Annie Hall. Moonstruck and The Warriors. Tony Manero—Travolta again—strutting through Bay Ridge in Saturday Night Fever. Egg creams, Ralph Kramden. And the Dodgers, the Dodgers, always with the Dodgers.

Beyond that, not much. I knew friends who’d grown up there, but hardly anyone who’d stayed. Brooklyn was a place people left (Woody Allen, Mr. Kotter, the Dodgers). Manhattan was where people hoped to arrive. In the received wisdom of NYC, Brooklyn was the Old Country, and the East River a vast, roiling Atlantic.

It’s said that one in seven Americans can trace roots back through Brooklyn. I can’t, but I live here now. I came seven years ago, for the quiet, a bigger apartment, and the novelty of open sky. I also came with LAUNCH SLIDESHOW the resignation of someone forced into the motel down the highway when every hotel in town is sold Photo: Hugh Stewart and David Nicolas out. It wasn’t an entirely happy move. Those early days in Carroll Gardens felt like exile... and Manhattan was right over there, taunting me, taunting all 2.5 million of us. GUIDE TO BROOKLYN

I spent a lot of time plotting how to get back. Manhattan... it takes a while to get over a girl like that. I Where to Eat & Drink compared every new experience to what it was like "in the city." If Manhattan was the Sun, Carroll Al Di Là Unimpeachably authentic Northern Italian (braised Gardens seemed a far-flung, semi-inhabitable planet. Taxi drivers agreed. Utter the B-word, and they’d rabbit, stewed tripe), served in your Nonna’s homey parlor. You’ll wait an hour for a table, then be grateful practically hiss. "Hey, I’m not happy about it, either," I’d snap. you did. 248 Fifth Ave., Park Slope; 718/ 783-4565; www.aldilatrattoria.com; dinner for two $60. You can guess where this is going. At some point during that first spring, something clicked—and I Alma began falling for Brooklyn. Maybe it was the sudden blooming of a rosebush beside my stoop one Casual, ever popular spot serving nouvelle Mexican with a side of wow: the view of Manhattan from the morning. It might have been the amazing banh mi served at a Vietnamese café in Sunset Park. But I’d covered rooftop is breathtaking. 187 Columbia St., Columbia Waterfront District; wager it was the old Polish greengrocer who, when I asked about fresh mint, plucked me three sprigs 718/643-5400; www.almarestaurant.com; dinner for two from his window box. "Anytime you need, just take," he said. "Is for everybody." $65. Applewood A folksy, hearth-warmed room sets the scene for farm- Finally, I was seeing Brooklyn for what it was, not just what it wasn’t. I still went to Manhattan—for fresh cooking at this creative mom-and-pop op (literally —the owners’ toddler is usually in the house). work, Knicks games, dental appointments. But weekends I spent east of the river, uncovering the 501 11th St., Park Slope; 718/768-2044; mysteries of Williamsburg, Fort Greene, and Brighton Beach. www.applewoodny.com; dinner for two $75. Beast Brooklyn’s most inventive tapas bar, where the wild It wasn’t all spearmint and roses. If I was slow to embrace Brooklyn, Brooklyn was also slow to embrace things are on the walls (an odd mythological-monsters theme) and the plates (short ribs braised in Guinness, a me. Every morning I repaired to the corner café for a macchiato. The owner was a gruff Calabrian pickled fennel–and-feta salad). named Tony. (Everyone in Brooklyn is named Tony, unless he’s Tov or Tung or Tolya or Tariq.) I only 638 Bergen St., Prospect Heights; 718/399-6855; dinner for two $40. knew his name because regulars always walked in shouting "To-NAY!" Backs would be slapped, Blue Ribbon Brooklyn greetings exchanged. Roomier, friendlier, and better than the acclaimed SoHo Me, Tony scarcely acknowledged. Eventually he’d fix me with a look you might give a bug in your salad original, with a superb raw bar and a comically diverse menu of American comfort food (fried chicken, Caesar and say "Whattayavin." No matter that my order was always the same. Each day I hoped against hope salad, a pupu platter). A branch of the great Blue Ribbon Sushi (718/840-0408) is next door at No. 278. for a "Hey, guy! The usual?" But always the same ignominy: Whattayavin. 280 Fifth Ave., Park Slope; 718/840-0404; www.blueribbonrestaurants.com; dinner for two $60.

Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory Finally, manna from heaven. I walked in. Tony tilted his chin. Managed a little smile. Said, The obsessives at BICF make only eight basic flavors "Howyadoin." I blurted out, "Fine, fine, excellent in fact!"—then savored my macchiato as never before. (hey, remember plain old "chocolate" and "vanilla"?)— but take the time to get each exactly right. Bonus: Grimaldi’s Pizzeria (718/858-4300) with its coal-oven pies is waiting just steps away. In Manhattan, you become a New Yorker within four hours of picking up your keys. No matter where Fulton Ferry Landing Pier, Dumbo; 718/246-3963. you’re from, the city takes you in. Across the river, membership comes harder. Through movies and Di Fara Pizza postcards and songs, Manhattan has always belonged to the world. Brooklyn always belonged to It’s everything I promise it is…I promise. Don’t come expecting silverware. Or speed. Brooklynites. 1424 Ave. J, Midwood; 718/258-1367; whole pizzas from $15.

Dressler Well, surprise. In case you haven’t heard, Brooklyn has become a byword for cool, the epitomic local- The latest from the owner of Williamsburg’s beloved boy-makes-good—and suddenly, Brooklyn belongs to everyone. Dumont, this gorgeous bistro goes one better, with bold flavors (striped bass with chorizo, broccoli rabe, and cockles) and equally forceful design (Baroque-style chandeliers, ornately filigreed dark-wood paneling). It’s easy to say when a thing ends, harder to know when it begins. Most locals date the fall of the old 149 Broadway, Williamsburg; 718/384-6343; www.dresslernyc.com; dinner for two $60. Brooklyn to 1957, when you-know-who decamped for Los Angeles. (We can refer to the years since as Frankies 457 Spuntino "A.D.": After Dodgers.) But other pillars were vanishing, too—manufacturing, shipping, the white Brick walls, plain wood tables, sultry lighting, and the middle class—and the borough struggled through the second half of the century. occasional Hollywood star (Kate Hudson, Liv Tyler, Leo DiCaprio) set the rustic-yet-urbane vibe at CG’s hippest restaurant. It helps to have great food, from delectable greens to knockout salumi to a perfect cavatelli with When did the "new" Brooklyn emerge? Was it in the 1990’s, when artists transformed Williamsburg into sausage and sage butter. 457 Court St., Carroll Gardens; 718/403-0033; the city’s creative hub? Was it in 2003, when Zagat named the Grocery—a tiny room in Carroll Gardens www.frankiesspuntino.com; dinner for two $65. —the seventh-best restaurant in NYC? Or a year earlier, when Time Out New York ran a cover headlined Franny’s "Manhattan: The New Brooklyn"? Yes, the brick oven–fired pizza is fabulous (try the clams, chile, and parsley combo). But the secret weapon is the carefully sourced produce, like the delicate pea shoots served with braised squid, and an Whenever and however it happened, the Borough of Kings is back. (Welcome back, welcome back, unassuming salad laced with powerful herbs. welcome back.) 295 Flatbush Ave., Prospect Heights; 718/230-0221; www.frannysbrooklyn.com; dinner for two $50.

The Good Fork It’s Korean-meets-French-bistro food (crispy sweetbreads; steak with kimchi, rice, and a fried egg) at this tiny, low-key room on Red Hook’s burgeoning foodie strip. 391 Van Brunt St., Red Hook; 718/643-6636; www.goodfork.com; dinner for two $60.

The Grocery There’s no flash or attitude at this 30-seat, husband- and-wife-owned jewel in Smith Street’s crown—just assured, inspired, greenmarket-based cooking that would fetch twice these prices in Manhattan. 288 Smith St., Carroll Gardens; 718/596-3335; dinner for two $90.

Jacques Torres Chocolate French expat Torres is New York’s best and most imaginative chocolate maker; this tiny shop attached to his waterfront factory sells—or, rather, exhibits?—his artful creations. 66 Water St., Dumbo; 718/875-9772; www.mrchocolate.com.

Marlow & Sons Bracing Malpeques, hearty fish stew, and ethereal Spanish tortillas are highlights at this funky oyster bar/tapas joint/épicerie (there’s a shop in front selling featured ingredients). 81 Broadway, Williamsburg; 718/384-1441; www.marlowandsons.com; dinner for two $55.

The Orchard The city’s finest fruit selection, bar none (it’s certainly the most expensive). Stop in before the obligatory visit to Di Fara, around the corner. 1367 Coney Island Ave., Midwood; 718/377-1799; www.orchardfruit.com.

Peter Luger Everyone knows Luger’s has the best straight-ahead porterhouse in NYC, but did you know about the fantastic burger served only at lunch? Now you do. 178 Broadway, Williamsburg; 718/387-7400; www.peterluger.com; dinner for two $110.

St. Helen Café Impeccable lattes are the lure at this handsome, intimate café. Sip one next to the carp pond in the backyard garden. 150 Wythe Ave., Williamsburg; 718/302-1197.

Sette Enoteca E Cucina An alluring, vine-fringed patio, a reasonably priced wine list, and earthy Italian cooking (like a great pappardelle with oxtail) make this a local favorite in the Slope— Steve Buscemi’s here every week. 207 Seventh Ave., Park Slope; 718/499-7767; dinner for two $80.

Sixpoint Craft Ales The best beer in the city is made by two twentysomethings who met at the University of Wisconsin, won a bunch of home-brewing prizes, then relocated to Brooklyn and took over a small, disused brewery in Red Hook. Two years on, Shane and Andrew are local heroes, and their seriously quirky, unfiltered, uncategorizable beers (is that a pale ale or a hefeweizen?) are on tap at New York’s top restaurants. Drop by at 1 p.m. on Saturday for the extremely casual tour and tasting. Behind Liberty Heights Tap Room, 34 Van Dyke St., Red Hook; 646/ 924-9365; www.sixpointcraftales.com.

Tanoreen Dinner way out in Bay Ridge? Sign us up, if we’re having Rawia Bishara’s revelatory Middle Eastern food (tender braised lamb, garlicky stewed eggplant, luscious zahtar-topped flatbread), which puts her competition in Manhattan to shame. 7704 Third Ave., Bay Ridge; 718/748-5600; www.tanoreen.com; dinner for two $55.

Thanh Da II A closet-size shop where local Vietnamese kids indulge their cravings for banh mi: barbecued pork, ham, pâté, cilantro, and pickled vegetables, served on a warm and crusty baguette. Follow it with a savory bowl of phô (beef noodle soup) at nearby Phô Cho Lon (5604 Eighth Ave., 718/492-1592). 5624 Eighth Ave., Sunset Park; 718/492-3760; banh mi from $3. Where to Go Out Barbès Speaking of the French: This unerringly hip, Gallic- owned live-music club runs the gamut from washboard swing and Reinhardt-style guitar jazz to quwwali and klezmer. 376 Ninth St., Park Slope; 718/965-9177; www.barbesbrooklyn.com.

Bar Tabac The liveliest of several bistro-cum-watering holes jostling for lead position in Brooklyn’s burgeoning Little Paris (actually, the funky feel is more like Little Marseilles). 128 Smith St., Cobble Hill; 718/923-0918.

Brooklyn Social Packed to the pressed-tin ceiling on weekend nights, agreeably lively most others. 335 Smith St., Carroll Gardens; 718/858-7758.

D.O.C. Sardinian-style enoteca offering 40-odd Italian wines, tasty antipasti and crostini (as well as some larger plates), and the opportunity to feel like a totally clued-in local. 83 N. Seventh St., Williamsburg; 718/963-1925.

Larry Lawrence Prettiest bar in the borough? Could be. The atmosphere recalls an outsized Finnish sauna, with acres of glowing pine and a glass-enclosed deck (except that isn’t steam, it’s cigarette smoke: the deck is one of NYC’s few remaining smoking areas). The crowd, most nights, is just as attractive. 295 Grand St., Williamsburg; 718/218-7866; www.larrylawrencebar.com.

Primorski Funniest club in the borough? Definitely. This glitzy, schmaltzy, Russian-Georgian supper club hosts a nightly bacchanal replete with dinner, disco balls, drinking (a lot of drinking), and supremely cheesy live music that’s hardly changed since the place opened in 1981. 282 Brighton Beach Ave., Brighton Beach; 718/891- 3111; www.primorski.net.

Zebulon Some of the city’s hottest jazz and Afrobeat is performed every night—free—in this sultry, low-lit lounge, tucked in beside a motorcycle-repair shop. Look out for the explosive funk of Amayo’s Fu-Arkest- Ra (featuring the lead singer of the great Antibalas) and Malian talking-drum master Baye Kouyate, who tends bar here on his off nights. 258 Wythe Ave., Williamsburg; 718/218-6934; www.zebuloncafeconcert.com. Where to Shop Bark Owner Linda Downey’s interior-design and clothing boutique is tactile heaven: Mongolian-lamb rugs, silk coverlets, hand-loomed striped blankets, and mohair throws. 495 Atlantic Ave., Boerum Hill; 718/625-8997; www.barkshop.com.

Bird Impeccably curated women’s clothing boutique offering one-stop shopping for 718 hipsters. Stock ranges from denim by Australian cult label Sass & Bide to fancy frocks by NYC’s Philip Lim. 430 Seventh Ave., Park Slope; 718/768-4940; also at 220 Smith St., Cobble Hill; www.shopbird.com.

Brooklyn Flat An outpost for whimsical, funky design. Ceramic salt- and-pepper shakers in the shape of chicken feet share space with silk-screened pillows by a local graphic artist. 150 Ainslie St., Williamsburg; 718/302-2138; www.brooklynflat.com.

Butter An airy showcase for top fashion names such as Dries van Noten and Rick Owens. The shoe selection alone (Henry Beguelin, Ann Demeulemeester) inspires many a pilgrimage from Manhattan. New this summer: the Butter Outlet (103 Bond St., Boerum Hill; 718/260- 9033). 389 Atlantic Ave., Boerum Hill; 718/260-9033.

Darr A stuffed grizzly bear? Buddhist devotional statuary? Vintage card-catalog drawers? Antique maps? All are under one roof at this defiantly eclectic emporium. 369 Atlantic Ave., Boerum Hill; 718/797-9733; www.shopdarr.com.

Environment 337 Young parents from the playground across the street come to ogle Czech glassware and mod ceramic vases like kids at a candy store. 337 Smith St., Carroll Gardens; 718/522-1767; www.environment337.com.

The Future Perfect If you hit only one design shop, make this the one. 115 N. Sixth St., Williamsburg; 718/599-6278; www.thefutureperfect.com.

Golden Calf The Chinese and American antiques are unexpectedly high-quality for such a low-fi setting: the gritty margins of Williamsburg. 86 N. Sixth St., Williamsburg, 718/302-8800; www.goldencalf.net.

Matter The housewares here range from kitschy items like Piet Houtenbos’s infamous grenade lamp to diminutive, high-concept products from other esteemed designers. 227 Fifth Ave., Park Slope; 718/ 230-1150; www.mattermatters.com.

Moon River Chattel In a borough littered with beautiful old buildings, these architectural-salvage specialists sell an impressive range of hard-to-find fixtures and hardware. 62 Grand St., Williamsburg; 718/388-1121; www.moonriverchattel.com.

Otte Once you get past the staff’s haughty (decidedly non- Brooklyn) attitude, you’ll find racks upon racks of flirty Vanessa Bruno, Ulla Johnson, and See by Chloe designs. 132 N. Fifth St., Williamsburg; 718/302-3007.

Sleep A sumptuous bed in the store’s window is strewn with high-end lingerie (Cosabella, Eberjey, Leigh Bantivoglio)—perhaps the place should be called Stay Up All Night? 110 N. Sixth St., Williamsburg; 718/384-3211; www.sleepbrooklyn.com.

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