THE FRIENDS OF CHURCHES Annual Report 2016 Supported by www.wiltshirehistoricchurchestrust.org.uk The Friends of Wiltshire Churches Future Events

President Secretary Saturday 11 February 2017 Saturday 6 May 2017 Mrs Sarah Rose Troughton, David Evans Esq Lecture on Stained Glass after WW1 Proposed tour of churches displaying HM Lord-Lieutenant of Wiltshire in Wessex churches to be given by medieval graffiti to be led by Tony Hook. Treasurer Brian Woodruffe. Urchfont Village Vice-Presidents Peter Smith Esq Hall 3.00pm Saturday 8 July 2017 Lieutenant-Colonel James Arkell Treasurer of the Wiltshire Historic Proposed tour of , Madeleine, Countess of Bessborough Churches Trust (WHCT) Saturday 18 March 2017 library and surrounds to be led by The Bishop of Bristol Annual General Meeting, followed by John Osborne. John Bush Esq Committee the Annual Guest Lecture ‘Churches of The Bishop of Clifton Mrs Diana Beattie Russia: Art & Liturgy’ to be given by Saturday 2 September 2017 Robert Floyd Esq The Hon Edward Buchan Jane Angelini. St Mary & St Nicholas Proposed tour of churches around Henry Hoare Esq His Honour Judge Mark Everall QC Church, Wilton at 2.30pm. Corsham to be led by Edward Buchan. The Countess of Inchcape (Chairman of WHCT) The Rt Rev William Ind Michael Hodges Esq Saturday 8 April 2017 It is hoped to arrange at least one social Sir Maurice Johnston Luke Hughes Esq Proposed tour of churches in the Frome event, probably in June. Further details Lord King of Bridgwater Brigadier Nigel Jackson area, to include Beckington, Berkley, of all these events will be announced in The Marquis of Lansdowne (Secretary of the WHCT) Lullington with Orchardleigh and due course. Lord Margadale The Ven Alan Jeans Rodden, to be led by Glyn Bridges. Lord Marland of Odstock Mrs Caroline Keevil Lady Nutting Morris le Fleming Esq Mrs Claire Perry MP Mrs Clare Miles The Earl of Radnor John Osborne Esq Major-General Sir Sebastian Roberts Mark Robinson Esq Sir Henry Rumbold, Bt Chris Rogers Esq The Neil Skelton Esq The Michael Wade Esq Viscount Sidmouth The Duchess of Somerset Lord Talbot of Malahide (until November 2016)

Chairman Martin Knight Esq Photography by Brian Woodruffe, Hugh Synge and Luke Hughes Deputy Chairman Mrs Diana Matthews-Duncan Coffin bier in St Peter’s, Marlborough. (Opposite)

THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES ANNUAL REPORT 2016 ANNUAL REPORT 2016 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES 1 Wiltshire Historic Churches Trust Grants

This year we have been able to take advantage of partnership grants offered by the National Churches Trust up to the value of a total of £10,000 awarded to the county for the year.

The following grants were awarded by The following grants were awarded by the Trustees on 20 June 2016: the Trustees on 12 November 2016:

Church Project Trust Grant NCT Grant Church Project Trust Grant St Mark’s, Repair of tower £5000 £5000 St John the Baptist, Berwick St John Chancel roof £4000 St Peter & St Paul, Great Re-roofing nave and chancel £2000 Abbey of St Mary and St Melor, Amesbury Nave roof £3000 Somerford Christ Church, Swindon Roof £3000 Holy Cross, Ashton Keynes Re-roof tower and nave £2000 St Andrew, Castle Combe Re-roofing £2500 £2500 Holy Trinity, Bowerchalke Roof, gutters £3000 St Thomas, Trowbridge Roof, drainage and £2500 Christ Church, Bradford on Avon Chancel roof £4000 weatherproofing St Mary, East Knoyle Tower £2000 St Denys, Warminster External and internal £2500 £2500 stonework repairs Christchurch, Worton and Marston Cupola £1500 St Peters, Lordsmead, Weatherproofing spire and £1000 St Michael and All Angels, Shalbourne Nave wall £1000 Chippenham flashings over brickwork St Andrew, Donhead St Andrew Nave floor £1000 St.Philip & St.James Neston Restoration of porch cross £200 All Saints, The Leigh Reinstatement of door £1000 Union Chapel, Kington Langley Toilet £2000 All Saints, Wardour Reinstatement of doors £1000 St James, South Wraxall Stained glass £1000 All Saints, Swindon windows Replace ceiling tiles £2000 St Mary, Redlynch Historic clock £1000 St Thomas a Becket, Box Kitchen and toilet £2000 Holy Trinity, Tidworth Guttering £2000 Holy Trinity, Calne Toilet and sewage system £2000 St Andrews, Collingbourne Ducis Rainwater goods £1500 St Mary, Purton Electrical safety £450 TOTAL £30000 St Andrew, Blunsdon Churchyard wall repairs £1000 St James The Great, Bratton Organ conservation and £1000 TOTAL FOR 2016: £68,150 from restoration WHCT and NCT Partnership Grants TOTAL £28150 £10000 (recommended by Trustees)

2 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES ANNUAL REPORT 2016 ANNUAL REPORT 2016 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES 3 New Members News Round by Martin Knight

We are pleased to welcome the following It is good to report on another successful the publication of this Annual Report. new members who joined during 2016: year for the Friends. Following the lecture, many members were able to enjoy Choral Evensong in Mr & Mrs Norman Barter (Bishopstone) We kept to the established format with the cathedral. Mr Joseph Caunt (Salisbury) our activities and you will find reports of Mr Bruce Fox () these below. Four church tours took place, details of Lt-Cdr & Mrs Dennis Gell (Calne) which can be found later in this Report. Mr & Mrs Jeremy Groom (Horton) Our prime aim is to support the Wiltshire We are blessed with a number of very fine Mr & Mrs Rob Henman (Milston) Historic Churches Trust which we churches in our county. Since its inception, Brigadier Nigel Jackson (Corsham) do by collecting annual membership the Friends have now visited over 100 of Mr Richard Lavers (Shalbourne) fees, charging for our various events them. The time has therefore come when Mr & Mrs Terence Lodge and publications. I am pleased that we we are beginning to do repeat visits and (Winterbourne Earls) were able to welcome 20 new Friends even arrange tours beyond the bounds of Mr Chris Macey (Salisbury) during the year and continued to raise our county. We visited London in April to Mr & Mrs Martin Marriott (Salisbury) substantial sums from the Annual Lecture, mark the publication of Michael Hodges Mr Richard McBain (Chittoe) 4 church tours, the party at Roche Court, fine book on London churches. We plan Mrs Jean Potter (Bradford-on-Avon) the annual Ride & Stride and the sale of a visit to some churches in Somerset in Mr Christopher Scott-Moody (Corsham) books and Christmas cards. April 2017. As usual, we are extremely Ms Amelia Shaw (Pewsey) grateful to those who lead the tours and Ms Victoria Stace (Sopworth) As a result, the Trust was able to give all the participants such a rewarding Mr & Mrs Graham Turner (Salisbury) distribute grants to the value of almost experience. We are also grateful for those Mr & Mrs Robert Waddington £60,000 to some of our needy churches. who write up these tours for publication (Upper Minety) We are also grateful to the National in the Annual Report. I believe Nigel Mr & Mrs Tim Wade Churches Trust for allowing us to allocate Jackson has set a new standard in his () a further £10,000 from their funds. The review of the Devizes tour by adding in Mr & Mrs Anthony Wilson (Cherhill) AGM was held on 19 March at the many relevant photographs taken on Salisbury Museum and was attended the day. I hope we may pursue this more by some 70 members where our guest friendly format in the future. speaker, Luke Hughes, entrigued us by describing the history of woodwork in We were once again hugely indebted to our churches and drawing parallels with Madeleine, Countess of Bessborough, such work in New . Luke is who invited us to enjoy her stunning no stranger to the Trust, having served sculpture garden at Roche Court and on the Friends committee since its kindly provided a wonderful supper after 17th century decoration (above) on pulpit in St Michael and All Angels, Winterbourne Earls inception. We are very grateful to him evensong at Farleigh church on Sunday and (below) on chest now in Connecticut for giving us such a lively lecture and 11 September. We were also delighted that Museum, New Haven for his company’s continued support of Nicholas Holtam, the Bishop of Salisbury,

4 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES ANNUAL REPORT 2016 ANNUAL REPORT 2016 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES 5 Ride and Stride by Charles Graham

‘The clouds poured down water’ (Psalm Churches Trust and Lord Brooke of 77 v.17). They did indeed. Some who Sutton Mandeville, who donated the cups had obviously kept a close eye on the and continues to contribute prize money. forecast delayed their departure till the afternoon, but the 10.00 starters had A list of prize-winners can be found on got thoroughly drenched by then. The the website, but here are a few highlights: unfriendly conditions may partly explain why the number of participants this year – In Devizes, Liz Overthrow, Secretary dropped by about 8%, and the number of Wiltshire Churches Together, led a of churches represented was a mere 108 pilgrimage round all ten churches in the (i.e. under a quarter of the churches in town, stopping at each one to give a brief the county). However a great deal of history and to say a prayer. determination was shown by those who did brave the weather, and their sponsors – Rev. Keith Brindle cycled from the most enabled them to raise nearly £44,000 northern church in Salisbury Diocese (St. which, with the addition of Gift Aid, Bartholomew’s, Royal Wootton Bassett) should bring a total similar to last year’s. to the southernmost (St. Andrew’s, Congratulations to all. The Trust is Portland), via his own church, St. James preached at the service. To receive such churches. So please feel free to forward grateful for support from the Diocesan in Devizes, and Salisbury Cathedral – a support means a lot to us. My very anything of a suitable quality which we Communications Offices, the National total of 106.6 miles. He raised £1377. grateful thanks to Diana Matthews- might add to our library or website. Duncan for organising the event. It is with sadness we record the death of Our website one of our vice-presidents, Lord Talbot of (www.wiltshirehistoricchurchestrust.org.uk) Malahide. We also record the departure is a great fount of information and of Richard Clark, Anthony Edwards and continues to develop under the innovative Vicki Villers from the committee of the and guiding hand of Nigel Jackson. Friends and thank them for their support over the years. We were once again able to raid Brian Woodruffe’s wonderful collection of Finally, our grateful thanks also go to photos to produce two Christmas cards. Luke Hughes of Furniture in Architecture, The sale of these raised in the region of who has once again kindly sponsored the £800. On the subject of photographs, publication of this report. many of our members come on tours with camera in hand. We are always (above) St John’s, Devizes, (right) hinge detail looking for new and unusual views of our at St Mary’s Devizes

6 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES ANNUAL REPORT 2016 ANNUAL REPORT 2016 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES 7 – Henry Stevenson, of St Michael & All Angels, Hilperton, also cycled more than Report on the Annual General Meeting 100 miles and certainly gets the prize and Annual Lecture held at the Salisbury for the most rain-sodden sponsorship form. Others from his church opted to Museum on Saturday 19 March 2016 stay in the dry and covered 162 miles on exercise bikes. by David Evans

– Martin Hoad, of Christ Church, Shaw, The meeting was held in the lecture room including the Friends pages; Charles rode 19.5 miles on his unicycle, visiting of the Salisbury Museum. About 70 Graham for organising Ride & Stride 4 churches. members attended. and Luke Hughes and his co-workers, who had again produced a handsome – Richard Aylen, of Christ Church, Derry Apologies had been received from many Annual Report. Hill, did a “Ride+Morris”, cycling to members, and in particular the President, Calne and Avebury and performing there Sarah Troughton. The Chairman looked ahead to the new with his Morris Dancing team year, when church tours would begin The minutes of the AGM of 2015 were to branch out beyond the borders of – 12-year-old Joe Cooke cycled to 39 accepted. The Chairman, Martin Knight, Wiltshire. A social event is planned for churches with his father, in aid of Christ apologised for an error in the Annual the summer. He also hoped that the Church, Warminster. Report, where the figures cited in the work of the Friends and the Trust would Treasurer’s Report were those for the become more widely known, and he – Roger Simpkins and Astrid Laurence year ending March 2014, instead of urged each Friend to try and a recruit a visited 24 churches on a tandem, and those for the year ending in 2015. new member. with 9 others from St. Bartholomew’s, Royal Wootton Bassett, raised a The Chairman told the Friends that the The Treasurer, Peter Smith, gave his magnificent £2110. past year had been a good one for both report on the Friends’ finances. They are the Friends and the Wiltshire Historic in a healthy state. The balance of income St. James, Bratton not only won Churches Trust. About £100,000 had less expenditure had improved somewhat the Brooke Cup for the sixth year been given out to churches, though to around £25,000, thanks to generous in succession but also regained the the Trust was anxious to receive more donations and the large profits from the Junior Group Cup which they lost in applications for grants. The number of Lecture on Magna Carta. 2015. They fielded 29 walkers and 13 Friends had increased, but not by much. cyclists, and they get not only the cups, The church tours had been especially The next date of the next AGM was but an extra £600 to add to the £1766 popular: as many as 50 had come to the provisionally announced as 25th they raised from sponsorship. Their tour of the Upper Kennet churches. March 2017. churchwarden has magnanimously offered to provide a simple guide for The Chairman thanked: those who had other parishes, to show that with a led tours; Marlborough College and St modest amount of effort a great deal Mary’s Calne for the splendid concert at can be achieved. Who will take up the (Top) Marlborough College Chapel. Edington in the summer; Nigel Jackson, challenge for 2017? (Below) enduring popularity of ‘ride-and-stride’. who is improving the Trust website,

8 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES ANNUAL REPORT 2016 ANNUAL REPORT 2016 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES 9 The Annual Lecture, given by Luke Hughes

Snug the Joiner and Peter Quince those by Serlio and de Vries, suggest the Carpenter: the fascinating role of what these were. The offices of works, Shakespeare’s rude mechanicals in early especially those at the two universities, 17th century joinery in churches in were also important in adopting patterns Wiltshire and the East coast of the USA. which could be widely imitated. As for the remarkable similarity of much The speaker’s photographs of the 17th New England joinery, that seems to be century woodwork in local Wiltshire accounted for by the emigration of English churches demonstrated remarkable workmen to the New World. Just as they similarities among the various churches. adopted familiar village names such as Further photos established that the same Tisbury and Chilmark, so they reproduced patterns were even more widespread, familiar designs in thseir joinery. to be found as far away as Durham, Denmark and even New England. New England joiners had plenty of local woods to use. English ones worked with In early 17th century England three prepared Baltic oak. English joiners were trends proceeded in parallel: the increase organised in guilds, such as the Joiners’ in imports of timber from the Baltic; the Guild of Salisbury, which paid for its growth in the number of disputes over charter from the Crown in 1617. It is pews; and the increase in the number of rarely possible to know much about surviving pulpits. Each of these trends individual joiners, but the speaker was peaked in the 1630s, when the demand able to end with a photo of Humphrey for joinery in churches was at its height. Beckham’s panel to be found in St Important in stimulating this demand Thomas’ Church, Salisbury, proudly were the policies of the new breed of announced as his own work. ‘high church’ bishops, Lancelot Andrews leading the way, with Neile, Laud, Wren The Chairman led the applause for a and Montague following in Charles I’s stimulating and informative lecture. reign. They insisted that parish should report what had been done to effect the necessary improvements in the internal ordering of their churches.

The similarities over wide areas of the Wainscot decoration from 1620s, illustrated work of early 17th century joiners point in the annual lecture. (Top) Wadham College, to common sources for their designs. Oxford (Bottom, left) Wells Cathedral (Bottom Widely used pattern books, such as right) Trinity Chapel, St Anthony’s, Lewseston.

10 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES ANNUAL REPORT 2016 ANNUAL REPORT 2016 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES 11 Redeemer and St Thomas More in We all hoped they managed to unlock Tour of Churches in Chelsea on Cheyne Row. Arrive we did but, alas, got the door as a funeral was scheduled the no further. Even Michael’s painstaking next day! Wednesday 13 April 2016 led by arrangements could not cope with a Michael Hodges jammed lock on the door of the church. Another stroll in the beautiful sunshine The was nowhere to be found (out brought us to St Lukes which stands very by Martin Knigh for a walk and not to be disturbed) and distinctively in Sydney Street. This is so, reluctantly, we had to quit our visit known as a Commissioners or Waterloo It may come as a surprise to read of the chapel uniquely survived the bombing. and merely ‘admire’ the outside while church. During the last half of the Friends of Wiltshire Churches visiting More also prepared a tomb for himself Michael told us what we were missing. Napoleonic Wars, a demand had gone a number of churches in Chelsea. But on his resignation as Lord Chancellor in The church, designed by Edward Goldie, up that more churches should be built then you realise that our tour leader 1532. His body never lay there. was opened in 1895 and Sir Thomas and in 1818 the Churchbuilding Act was was Michael Hodges who had been More was added to the dedication in passed, allocating £1 million commissioned by History of London Michael emphasised that the monuments 1935. In 1940, 19 people were killed for new churches. By 1838 225 churches to write a book on London’s churches* were the real reason for coming to the by a bomb whilst sheltering in the had been built. In general ‘useless (excluding the City). So some 25 Friends church. Besides that to Sir Thomas crypt. Inside were several dedications to splendour’ was deprecated! St Lukes and others were privileged to gather on a More, of particular note is that to Jane St Thomas More and many paintings. was designed by James Savage beautiful spring morning to be guided by Guildford, Duchess of Northumberland, Another time… and consecrated in 1824. the man himself. widow of Edward VI’s Protestant Lord Protector, mother-in-law of Lady Jane What better place to start than Chelsea Grey and mother to Queen Elizabeth’s Old Church which, besides its regular favourite, the Earl of Leicester. Other services, has been witness to many monuments and tombs were dedicated weddings and funerals over the years. to Edmund First Lord Braye, Richard To illustrate the point we were greeted Jervoise, Thomas , Sir by a host of beautiful flowers and a Thomas Lawrence, Gregory Fiennes, Sir very busy professional flower arranger Arthur Gorges, Sara Colville, Sir Richard preparing for the next event. Stanley. On the north side of the nave is a memorial to Lady Jane Cheyne, widow of Michael pointed out that the church has Charles Cheyne, Viscount Newhaven. She no particular architectural merit. It was was a great benefactor of Chelsea and bombed in 1941 but well restored by the church. The construction is by Petro Walter Godfrey in 1949. The east end Bernini, son of the great Bernini. is medieval and the south chapel was restored by Sir Thomas More in 1528. Michael concluded by telling us that his We noted beautiful Italianate renaissance mother’s ashes are to be found in the carving of the capitals. The roof of the columbarium.

*The Parish Churches of Greater London: A Guide, It was then only a short walk along the available @ £25 from the Heritage of London Trust, blossomed lined streets of Chelsea to 34 Grosvenor Gardens, London SW1W 0DH. arrive at the church of the Most Holy St Luke’s, Chelsea

12 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES ANNUAL REPORT 2016 ANNUAL REPORT 2016 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES 13 second to Luke T Flood, of Flood St The pulpit is of 1864 by Bentley who also porch and the north aisle called to Seven fame. The architect Savage is buried in created the magnificent altar of alabaster Sorrows Chapel, the confessional, the the churchyard. It was also in this church and marble in the north east chapel. Both sunburst above the high altar and the that the ill-starred marriage between came from the old church. domed tabernacle to the statue of St John Charles Dickens and Catherine Hogarth the Baptist. took place in 1836. Another short walk took us through Sloane Square to St Mary’s Bourne Street. St Mary’s retains its distinctive liturgy Suitably fortified by lunch in various Dedicated in 1874, Michael told blending the Roman rite of the Catholic hostelries, we met again at St Mary us that the building resulted from Church with the Book of Common Prayer. Cadogan. a decision by the vicar of St Paul’s It has also seen many interesting events, Knightsbridge to build a mission perhaps none more curious than the The original church was built at the chapel in the poorer section of the wedding of the notoriously gay Labour north west corner of what is now parish. This was a rough area at the MP Tom Driberg in 1951. This was Cadogan St and Pavillion Rd. It was time The architect was R.J.Withers commemorated by a marvellous ode by a plain Georgian Chapel, opened in who according to an obituary built Osbert Lancaster which Michael then 1812 by the Duchess d’Angouleme, the ‘a good cheap type of brick churches’. read, giving us smiles on our faces as we daughter of Louis XVI. By 1825 2-3000 then walked round. parishioners were worshipping in the The interest in the church primarily St Mary’s, Chelsea chapel which was bursting at the seams. relates to the splendid fittings inserted in We certainly experienced the impressive To alleviate this problem, a 2.5 acre the inter-war years. One of the church size of this building. It can hold 2500 site was purchased in 1875 and John wardens at the time was Viscount people. The impressive west pinnacle Francis Bentley, the subsequent architect Halifax, the long time president of the is 142 ft high and the nave is a lofty of Westminster Cathedral was appointed English Church Union. His contribution 60 ft high with aisles large enough for to build a new church which opened in is marked by a baroque monument by galleries. The east window has stained 1879. The old church was demolished Goodhart Rendel. By the 1920s the glass by Hugh Easton (1959). However, but various things were brought across congregation had become very smart there is a feeling that this church is a to the new church, including E.W.Pugin’s indeed. In 1910 the Society of St Peter & failure from an artistic point of view. Blessed Sacrement Chapel. A.W.N.Pugin’s St Paul ad been set up to promote Anglo- Charles Eastlake in his book on the cemetery chapel was also incorporated, Catholicism through the adoption of what Gothic Revival believes there is an the cemetery having been closed in 1858. John Betjeman described as ‘the divine unfortunate lack of proportion which baroque’. The chief exponent of this style deprives the building of scale and St Mary’s is very simple externally but was Martin Travers who was responsible gives it a cold machine made look. He has a most impressive interior, tall and for the sarcophagus-shaped high altar and also believes the stone carving is poor light with refined detailing. We moved reredos as well as the lovely statue of Our and lifeless and that there is a ‘foolish round the church noting the former Lady of Peace in 1920. overstrained balance of parts’. However, baptistery in the south west corner: the Pevsner says ‘yet its timidity and font is believed to have come from the Between the wars H.S.Goodhart Rendel meagreness have appealing qualities’. old church. We passed various chapels became the architect. Amongst other Two monuments were worth noting: on the north aisle. In the north transept things, he coveted the next door, the one to Lt Colonel Henry Cadogan who is a beautiful 1894 Shrine of Our Lady Pineapple, into the presbytery, designed died at the Battle of Vitoria in 1813, the with marble base and wooden canopy. the ingenious polygonal north west St Barnabas, Pimlico

14 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES ANNUAL REPORT 2016 ANNUAL REPORT 2016 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES 15 Finally, we reached St Barnabas, Pimlico. Bodley & Garner with tiers of excellent In similar circumstances to St Mary’s carved figures. The fine choir stalls and Tour of Bradford-on-Avon and its Bourne Street, St Barnabas’ was the parclose screens are by Jordan & Co result of an appeal by the vicar of St in the 1850s. Comper was responsible Churches on Saturday 21 May 2016 led Paul’s Knightsbridge in 1847 to fund amongst other things for the altar-piece of by Colin John by Diana Beattie a church with presbytery and school Lamentation which Pevsner describes as in the rougher end of his parish. The ‘entirely unsentimental’ (Michael felt this architect was Thomas Cundy II who to be a compliment). Colin Johns, Architect for the explained the history of congregational worked mainly for the Grosvenor estate Wiltshire Historic Buildings Trust, worship and explained that the church as surveyor. That trenchant magazine, St Barnabas for a long time had a led a fascinating tour of Bradford on now focuses on social and welfare work. the Ecclesiologist, declared the church as distinguished musical tradition. At Avon. Accompanied by Julian Orbach The church retains its original galleries. most satisfactory ‘the most sumptuous the start of the 20th century, Vaughan (who lives in the town and is writing church which has been dedicated to the Williams was organist and the compilers the Wiltshire edition of Pevsner) and By popular demand our second visit use of Anglican communion since the of the first English Hymnal often met here. Michael Hodges (author of a very was the Tithe Barn, part of the estate Revival’. From the start the ceremonial comprehensive book Parish Churches of the Abbess of Shaftesbury. One was fairly splendid and the church Here our wonderful excursion on such of Greater London, a guide. This gave could only wonder at the extraordinary was lampooned as the convent of the a glorious spring day ended. Michael did us a most interesting three-dimensional economic significance that the church Belgravians. Bishop Bloomfield of us proud with his vast knowledge of the insight not only into Bradford’s churches, had over everyday life in Saxon times. London disapproved of the ceremonial. subject. Our very grateful thanks go to but also into the economic and social The barn is huge and is nearly always At that time there was a general no- him for organising such a fascinating history of the town. open for visitors. popery scare and the ritualists were day and we wish him every success with considered to be in league with the Pope. his publication. Bradford on Avon is situated on a sharp We crossed the river to visit the Saxon There were resulting riots at St Barnabas. bend of the River Avon and a of Church, which was in use as a school The furnishings are mostly late Victorian. the street plan we were given showed from about 1715 for some 150 years. The chief glory is the altar and reredos by St John the Baptist, Allington Abbey Mills and Kingston Mills along It was during some alterations to the North bank. From Saxon times install a chimney that two large pieces onwards the economy was based on wool of sculpture representing angels were and the processing which wool requires revealed. The lost church was found. – spinning, cleaning, dyeing, weaving WH Jones, the vicar, was an and finishing. By the 1820s to 1835 this antiquarian whose research in 1871 was in decline. But in 1848 Stephen discovered a reference in the Bodleian Moulton bought Kingston Mills and Library “there is to this day at that brought rubber technology to the town. place Bradford on Avon a little church The Moulton bicycle comes from here. Aldhelm is said to have founded in the Bradford on Avon is a flourishing town name of the Blessed St. Laurence”. The which boasts six very smart wedding church was well documented by JT dress shops! Irvine, a Saxon scholar and architect, and GG Scott during the rescue We kicked off at the Congregational operation. Irvine had been appointed Church in St. Margaret’s Hill. We to supervise the works of restoration were welcomed by Harry Wishart who in 1874, but he resigned following

16 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES ANNUAL REPORT 2016 ANNUAL REPORT 2016 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES 17 a disagreement with the trustees over After an excellent pub lunch; Denise their decision to demolish the Master’s Leigh, churchwarden, welcomed us at House on the south side and replace it Christ Church. Work started on the with a buttress and the south porch. It church in 1843, designed by George was clear that Irvine’s intention was to Manners, the City architect of Bath. The ensure that none of the Saxon fabric intention was to serve the people living was removed and that any insertion was in the villas to the north of the town done in a way that would differentiate it centre. GG Scott modified the church in from the original. 1877 to create a Gothic revival church. A very poignant Lady Chapel was added The Catholic Church of St. Thomas in 1919, dedicated to the memory of More, was originally built by a group Lieutenant Eric Moulton, who died on of businessmen who wanted a new 16th September, 1915, age 26, his grave town hall. The architect appointed was is in Brown’s Road Military Cemetery, Thomas Fuller of Bath and the Bradford Festubert, Pas de Calais. on Avon town hall is his major work in England. Much of Fuller’s later work Our final visit was to the Chapel of St. can be found in North America and he Mary Tory, following a very scenic walk won the competition for the Canadian looking down across the valley of the Parliament building in Ottawa. The River Avon – even in the rain it was a building was rescued following a stunning view. This chapel was built as campaign by Canadians and it was a hermitage for Pilgrims on their way purchased firstly by the Midland Bank to Glastonbury. By 1877 the chapel was and then in 1955 by the Diocese of in ruins. It was rescued by TB Saunders, Clifton to become the Catholic Church QC. There is some good modern glass by of Thomas More. Mark Angus.

We had a wonderful day in spite of the rain, and Bradford on Avon is a testament to the work of conservationists who have battled to save its wonderfully fine heritage – well worth a visit.

With grateful thanks to Colin Johns and his note on the Churches of Bradford on Avon.

Churches in Bradford on Avon. Top (opposite): St Lawrence). Left and (opposite), right: St Thomas More Catholic Church. Far right St Mary Tory Chapel.

18 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES ANNUAL REPORT 2016 ANNUAL REPORT 2016 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES 19 ochre painted walls. In a corner is a barrow and its burials dating from at least Tour of Churches around the display of an old set of hand bells, a 2,500 BC. On the church he explained reminder of the village’s heritage of bell that a 12th century construction was Marlborough Downs on Saturday 9 July founding (three of the eight church bells built over a Saxon one. It was probably 2016 led by John Osborne by Clare Miles were cast locally in the 18th century) and used by a cell of monks governed by the also kept is a pair of village fire engines, Abbey of Bec Hellouin, . Later made in London in 1778. connections with St. George’s Windsor, Charterhouse, London, and King’s A gentle climb north-east from chantry and the accumulation of fine The village of Ogbourne St. Andrew was College, Cambridge, then ensued. St. Marlborough brought us to the attractive quality brass memorials, wooden screens, a short drive west down to the Og Valley. Andrew’s shared in this complex medieval downland village of . At its an alabaster tomb chest of 1510 and an Here at St. Andrew’s Church willow and history with neighbouring Ogbourne St. heart is the perfect village green, overseen imported Jacobean pulpit. pollarded lime trees skirt the church yard George; today both churches form part of along its upper edge by an imposing flint which at its eastern end contains amongst the Ridgeway Benefice. and ashlar church with a massive western Animating the interior are two trees the site of an Early Bronze Age tower. Its dedication to St. Michael was sophisticated early 17th century wall round barrow. The church has a simple Architectural features include Norman possibly intentional as the Saint’s name monuments with sculpted figures castellated west tower, a short clerestoried arcades with round piers and simply is sometimes associated with churches possibly by the same hand. In the Lady nave and squat roof. The north doorway carved capitals, a 13th century chancel on elevated ground. No wonder that Chapel the long lived brothers, William with Norman decoration is matched by a and a 15th century tower the base of this is a village favoured by film location and Edward Walrond, kneel facing comparable south door. John introduced which was fitted into the westernmost managers. After a swift round of coffees outwards. The painted figures in their us to Bruce Fox who has made a study bay of the nave. It displays an attractive at the old Blue Boar Inn on The Green niches have genial, round faces. The of the archaeology and early church tierceron vault with roof bosses and a we were in the pews, a sizeable party, to text below describes Edward as a lover history of this ancient site. He drew our central opening for bell ropes from the listen to John Osborne’s account of the of hospitality and entertainer of many attention to a small display featuring the belfry. Curious stone corbels and pilgrims’ church’s phases of construction. friends – a Jacobean personage one ongoing research and excavations on the markings were pointed out. Victorian would have liked to have met. In the A Norman building on this site was south transept is an elaborate monument largely destroyed by fire in 1220, to Richard Goddard, a local church evidence of it survives in an arch in the benefactor who died in 1615. Six south porch and in bold zig-zag carving kneeling family members face outwards, of three arches fitted into the Gothic the praying hands of each struck off southern arcading of the nave which by iconoclasts. dates from a 13th century reconstruction. The early aisled, cruciform church In the 1860s the Victorian church possessed a central tower which was architect William Butterfield undertook inadequately supported by round arches some work on the 13th century chancel at the crossing; these were replaced in and sanctuary and raised the roofs. In the 15th century by bold piers with lofty the 1980-1990s a major redecoration pointed arches. The tower was removed took place and what is presented today and the western tower constructed. is an uncluttered, spacious interior, well The church flourished as shown by the lit from the largely clear lights in the addition of a northern Lady Chapel and windows and warmth offered by the St George, Ogbourne

20 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES ANNUAL REPORT 2016 ANNUAL REPORT 2016 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES 21 to King’s College, Cambridge. By the surprise in the unified presentation 14th century the dedication to St George and fine workmanship in the joinery of was established. Alterations were made the pulpit and matching reading desk, in the 15th and 16th centuries and much Commandments board above the altar, restoration work was undertaken by T. pews and shapely west gallery. This 1816 H. Wyatt, Diocesan architect, around treatment was the culmination of badly 1873. The Victorians made their mark needed restoration works, sponsored in memorable images of a bold, blue by local landowners at a cost of £2,000. painted banner above the chancel arch By virtue of its distinctive charm, this with a text proclaiming ‘Glory to God interior precluded any late Victorian in the Highest’, also the bright stained ‘beautification’ project. John quoted glass of the east window and, to either Betjeman’s fulsome description, from side of it, in the equally colourful, large the nave’s robust, late Norman arcade mosaic panels of the Annunciation and and chancel arch down to the 1816 the Nativity, made by Powell, the prolific red leather kneelers (still there) by the ecclesiastical decorators. Chippendale style communion rails, from touches occur in restoration work by the St. George to find its tucked away, well his 1952 book on British architecture, architect, William Butterfield, in a Lavers proportioned church of rubble, flint The rewarding experience of the tour ‘First and Last Loves’. and Westlake stained glass window and limestone dressings. It has neat, thus far was to reach near saturation depicting the four cardinal virtues and in Perpendicular square headed windows point when we hit Mildenhall, known as Having pointed out features of the low pine benches. and a simple tower of the same period. Minal, in the Kennet Valley, just east of building, John introduced us to David Passing through the 13th century south Marlborough. The modest appearance of Sherratt who had prepared a small, As at Aldbourne, the local, landowning door we found ourselves in the three bay the small church of St. John the Baptist detailed exhibition in the church to mark is represented. In a nave with Early English pointed arches was not unlike those of the Ogbourne this year’s 1816 bicentenary. He gave us good monument of 1665; William and on round columns some of which had churches, although a closer inspection of an engaging account of the patronage and Elizabeth sit within a round recess, simple leaf carvings on the capitals. the tower revealed Saxon and Norman advancement of the Reverend Charles below are their eight children, six of elements. The interior offered a bigger Francis, from Marlborough Grammar whom, like their parents, clutch skulls. In his historical introduction John School boy to Rector of Minal’s church; Also buried in the chancel is Obidiah explained that by the 12th century a he died in 1821. We saw his wall Sedgwick, puritan preacher and author church existed here in the northernmost monument, a white marble Gothick affair who was active during the English settlement of the Og Valley. In 1148 complete with a crocketed ogival arch and Civil War. The Victorian civil engineer, Maud of Wallingford endowed a priory palm trees, by Harris of Bath. Noticeable Sir Samuel Canning, is remembered on this site to the previously mentioned on our departure was the small, stone in a simple tablet; he laid the first Abbey of Bec Hellouin, in Normandy. relief placed in the porch to mark the transatlantic cable in 1857-58. The Abbey’s estates in the south of Millennium. Sebastian Brooke carved The England were to be administered by Lamb, symbol of St. John the Baptist. Only just absorbing the outline of this the priory up to the 15th century. The Then on to Marlborough towards the church’s rich history we left to fit in Manor of Great Ogbourne had gained landmark tower of St. Peter’s Church at lunch at the local Silks on the Downs pub prominence and prosperity and like (very good). We then headed back up the Ogbourne St. Andrew, it was bound St Andrew, Ogbourne (Opposite) road to the small village of Ogbourne briefly to Charterhouse and for centuries St Sampson, Cricklade

22 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES ANNUAL REPORT 2016 ANNUAL REPORT 2016 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES 23 the west end of the famous wide High Street. It has to be said that our leader’s Tour of Churches in and around Devizes clever time-keeping had insured that we were able to enjoy pots of tea and cake on Saturday 3rd September 2016 led by in the coffee shop of this Redundant David Evans by Nigel Jackson Church which is run by a charitable trust. As we sat in the high, spacious interior, John explained that a Norman church had served a nearby castle just Twenty-six members of the Friends The group then walked through the outside the town wall but it was replaced assembled in the foyer of St Andrew’s town centre to St Mary’s Church, which by a Perpendicular building in the 15th Church in Long Street, Devizes on a is now used only occasionally for century. Its tower with plain pinnacles day forecast for heavy rain. Fortified by worship and is being actively considered similar to those of some other substantial coffee and with an eye on the weather, for other uses. churches in Wiltshire, was restored in they then walked across the road to visit 1862 by, again, T. H. Wyatt. He also St John’s Church. Another originally Norman construction replaced an old barrel roof in the nave with a dominating tower, this town and fortunately spared the tierceron Built from 1120 to 1130, this major church was extensively changed in the rib vaulting of the chancel. Wyatt was Norman church was inside the original 15th century. An inscription in the roof probably responsible for the bold castle baile. Reflecting the early patronage records this rebuilding by William Smith, decorative text at Ogbourne St. George’s and development by Bishops Osmond who died in 1436. The highlights of the and chances are he struck again here in and Roger of Sarum and subsequent church are the Norman Chancel, the high the same emphatic way with a banner development of the civil town and military Perpendicular archway to the tower and over the chancel arch which bears a text garrison of Devizes, it now combines the embattled porch, with Norman zig- from scripture. Norman, late medieval and 19th century zag bands carved into the stone archway. architecture. Devizes Castle was attacked Amongst the many Georgian and in the Civil War and the east wall of the The Castle Hotel provided lunchtime Victorian wall hung monuments is a church is peppered with the shot marks. sustainment for the group. It then small early 17th century tablet with rained heavily! two quaint kneeling figures, set there The views from the Tower – climbed in remembrance of three children of by around half of the Friends group – The group started in the afternoon at Sir Nicholas Hyde, Lord Chief Justice. showed up the significance of the church St Nicholas, Bromham, where we were The historical fact inserted into any being sited on a high outcrop of rock that hosted by the Churchwarden. description of this church is that Thomas provides panoramic views of the town. Wolsey, later Cardinal, was ordained This very attractive Grade 1 church here in March, 1498. The internal highlights of this Grade 1 owes much to its Norman heritage and church include the splendid Norman linkage to Battle Abbey. The church was The Chairman, Martin Knight, Chancel, the Beauchamp Chapel enlarged by 1400, a spire was added by expressed our thanks to John Osborne (1492), the interesting 19th Century the Lord of the Manor by 1500 and the for researching, planning and use of stone from Box and Chilmark Chancel was changed three times – once presenting the day’s very enjoyable in the two-tone columns and the without a Faculty, which incurred the and informative excursion. St Peter’s, Malborough Victorian stained glass window. wrath of the Bishop and Chancellor.

24 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES ANNUAL REPORT 2016 ANNUAL REPORT 2016 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES 25 the Transept is uniquely odd, as is the penitential seat with Latin inscriptions. Wiltshire Historic Churches Trust The final visit was to Etchilhampton to see St Andrew’s Church, a 14th century (WHCT) Treasurer’s report for the building which was changed year ended 31st March 2016 in Victorian times. by Peter Smith, Hon Treasurer The box pews were retained and stand out, as does a 14th century carving of the The net assets of the WHCT stood Against this costs of £2840 (mainly Archangel Gabriel and a knight’s tomb of as of 31st March 2016 at £249,000 postages and printing) were incurred, the same date. (£292k, 2015). leading to a profit for the year of £26,530 (£24k, 2015). There is also a Simon Whistler The gross income of the WHCT for Millennium engraved glass window with the year was just short of £96,000 The WHCT gave 34 grants totalling local scenes, including the Long Memorial, (£100k, 2015). £100,400 for the year to 31st March 2016. in the north wall. The Friends had income of £14,270 Full details of the Audited Accounts St Mary’s, Bishops Canning and (below) detail It was an excellent day, with a wide from membership fees and Gift Aid; for the year ended 31st March 2016 of entrance variety of significant churches and £6280 from activities; £6350 from are available for viewing online at the fascinating national and local history donations (including £4400 from the Charity Commission website (www. The Baynton Chapel, with its decorated to absorb. Many thanks to David Evans Wiltshire Masters Golf Day); £970 from charitycommission.gov.uk) by entering ceiling, alabaster knight’s tomb of Sir for planning and leading this very ongoing sales of Brian Woodruffe’s book the WHCT’s Registered Charity Richard Tocotes, memorials, brasses and informative and enjoyable tour and for The Parish Churches of Wiltshire and Number 1075598. stained glass windows, was a wonderful sharing his encyclopaedic knowledge £1500 from the sale of Christmas cards: sight. The link to the Irish poet, Thomas of these particularly well-chosen a total of £29,370. St Mary’s, Bourne Street (see p 15) Moore, who was buried in the churchyard, Wiltshire churches. has also been cherished.

Our next stop was at St Mary the Virgin, Bishops Canning.

This large village church is known locally as the Cathedral of Pewsey Vale. The Early English work throughout the church includes a long Chancel that is almost cut off from the rest of the church and grand arches in the nave.

It was developed in the 13th and 14th centuries by the Dean and Chapter of Salisbury Cathedral. The East side of

26 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES ANNUAL REPORT 2016 ANNUAL REPORT 2016 THE FRIENDS OF WILTSHIRE CHURCHES 27 Legacies

Please remember the Wiltshire Historic Churches Trust in your will. The Registered Charity number of the WHCT is 1075598.