Plan Your Trip 1 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Dubai & Abu Dhabi
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Andrea Schulte-Peevers and Jenny Walker Contents
PlanPlan Your Your Trip Trip page 1 4
Welcome to Dubai Top Itineraries...... 16 Eating...... 27 & Abu Dhabi...... 4 If You Like...... 18 Drinking & Nightlife... 31 Dubai & Abu Dhabi’s Month by Month...... 20 Entertainment...... 35 Top 10...... 6 With Kids...... 23 Shopping...... 37 What’s New...... 13 For Free...... 25 Sports & Activities.....42 Need to Know...... 14
Explore Dubai & Abu Dhabi 46
Neighbourhoods Downtown Dubai...... 83 Abu Dhabi...... 129 at a Glance...... 48 Jumeirah & Around...... 101 Day Trips from Dubai Deira...... 50 Dubai Marina & Palm & Abu Dhabi...... 170 Bur Dubai...... 65 Jumeirah...... 116 Sleeping...... 178
Understand Dubai & Abu Dhabi 191
Dubai & Abu Dhabi Politics & Economy..... 199 The Environment...... 207 Today...... 192 Identity & Culture...... 203 The Arts...... 211 History...... 194
Survival Guide 213
Transport ��������������������� 214 Language ���������������������228 Directory A–Z �������������� 219 Index...... 234
Dubai Maps 241 NAUFAL MQ/GETTY IMAGES © CHRIS MELLOR/GETTY IMAGES © a ir 0 De p5 i r ba 5 Bu p6 Du bai Du ound 3 wn Ar p8 Burj Khalifa
Fresh dates on
ah & p101 Downto (above) Dubai Downtown (p85), (right) Souvenirs for sale in Dubai’s shopping (p37) neighbourhoods (left) display in Al Ain (p173) FRANK FELL/GETTY IMAGES © Jumeir na & ri Ma Jumeirah p116 lm bai Pa Du ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 16
Top Itineraries
Day One Day Two
Bur Dubai (p65) Jumeirah (p101) M Start with a cultural breakfast at the M Kick off day two with a guided tour Sheikh Mohammed Centre for of the stunning Jumeirah Mosque, Cultural Understanding for a rare chance then cab it down the coast towards the icon- to meet locals and eat home-cooked Emi- ic Burj Al Arab and explore the charming rati food. Delve further into local culture Madinat Jumeirah village, perhaps stock- and history with a spin around Al Fahidi ing up on camel toys and pashminas at its Historic District, dipping in and out of the faux souq or taking an abra ride around its various small museums and shops before network of canals past Arabian-style hotels finishing up at the nearby Dubai Museum. and lush gardens.
Lunch Process impressions over lunch Lunch Enjoy Burj Al Arab views and lunch at the Arabian Tea House (p73). at Souk Madinat Jumeirah (p112).
Deira (p50) Downtown Dubai (p83) Enjoy the short stroll to the breezy It’s the hottest part of the day so R Bur Dubai Souq via the atmos- R make a beeline for the Dubai Mall pheric Hindi Lane, then catch an abra and visit the watery wonderland of the (traditional water taxi) across Dubai Creek Aquarium before giving your credit cards to forage for bargains in the bustling Deira a workout. Watch the sun set from the lofty souqs. Peruse exotic potions in the Spice observation terrace of the Burj Khalifa Souq and dazzling jewellery in the Gold (book way ahead) then enjoy alfresco happy- Souq, perhaps stopping for a juice or shwar- hour drinks at Calabar. ma at Ashwaq Cafeteria. Walk along the busy dhow wharves and snap photographs Dinner Marvel at the Dubai Fountain of the colourful cargo vessels. during a meal at Thiptara (p93).
Dinner Relax during a dinner cruise Downtown Dubai (p83) aboard Al Mansour Dhow (p61). Check out the killer views and N cocktails at Neos or belt out your top Deira (p50) number at Harry Ghatto’s at the Jumeirah After dinner, take a taxi to QDs and Emirates Towers. N wind down with a drink or a sheesha (water pipe) while counting the twinkling lights of the Dubai skyline across the Creek. 17 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN
Day Three Day Four To p I ti n Al Quoz (p88) Abu Dhabi (p129) M (Hint: Pack your beach gear.) Greet M Begin your tour of Abu Dhabi at the eraries the day with strong java and a magnificent Sheikh Zayed Grand healthy breakfast at Tom & Serg, an ultra- Mosque (closed during prayer times), at hip industrial loft cafe, before perusing the the gateway to this capital city. Board the latest in Middle Eastern art on a gallery Big Bus here and drive past the man- hop around the Alserkal Avenue ware- groves off the city’s Eastern Corniche. house complex in the industrial district Alight at Manarat Al Saadiyat to learn of Al Quoz. Afterwards head to The Beach about the city’s feisty future, built on its at JBR for lunch. pearling past – a past you can encounter at the dhow harbour. Lunch Try the Counter (p119) or another beachside restaurant. Lunch Tuck into a lavish Emirati buffet at Al Arish Restaurant (p158).
Dubai Marina (p116) Dedicate the afternoon to sloth- Abu Dhabi (p129) R dom. Stake out a spot on the beach, Visit the fish market and watch either for free at JBR Open Beach or by R the fishermen mend their nets splurging for the sophisticated Meydan before leaving Al Mina for the Corniche. Beach Club, then spend the afternoon Hire a bike from Funride opposite the working on your tan and swimming in Sheraton and cycle part of the 8km to the the crystalline Gulf. There are showers for public beach, passing the city’s impressive rinsing off before showing off the day’s tower blocks. Enjoy the Gulf breeze with a view of the marina and uninhabited Lulu Dinner Take in glittering marina views Island. Rise to the 74th-floor observation over seafood at Aquara (p122). Dinner Savour seafood at Sayad (p142) in the opulent Emirates Palace. glow during sundowners at Bliss Lounge or Pure Sky Lounge. deck of the Jumeirah at Etihad Towers for the highest high tea in the city. Dubai Marina (p116) Follow up with a digestive stroll N along the Dubai Marina water- Abu Dhabi (p129) front past bobbing yachts and glittering Enjoy post-dinner drinks at the futuristic high-rises, perhaps stopping for N glamorous Etoiles in the Emirates a nightcap and breathtaking views at the Palace and then rejoin the real world with Observatory or Atelier M. a coffee and sheesha at one of the late- ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 241
Dubai Maps
Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Sikh Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lookout Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International Other Sight Park State/Province Pass Disputed Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park Bodysurfing Cliff Diving Population Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National) Course/Tour Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Drinking & Nightlife Tram Mudflat Cafe Underground station Park/Forest Other Transport Entertainment Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book MAP INDEX e # 0 5 km 1 Deira & Eastern Creek North 0 2.5 miles (p244) The World 2 Deira & Eastern Creek South (p246) 3 Bur Dubai & Western Creek North (p248) Ð"9 The Gulf 4 Bur Dubai & Western Creek South (p252) PALM 5 East Jumeirah & Around Port JUMEIRAH (p254) Rashid
6 West Jumeirah & Around Ð"5 SHINDAGHA (p256) Ð"3 Jumeirah BUR Sunset Beach 7 Downtown Dubai (p258) DUBAI Kite Beach DUBAI DEIRA DUBAI Beach PË94 Park MARINA JUMEIRAH 8 Al Quoz (p260) INTERNET CITY UMM Dubai Marina & Palm Jumeirah SUQEIM PË92 SATWA 9 SAFA Al Safa Za'abeel Ð"1 (p262) QÌ11 Park Park AL AL FINANCIAL KARAMA BARSHA DOWNTOWN QUOZ CENTRE PORT Ð"6 DUBAI ZA'ABEELQÌEI 11 SAEED Jebel Ali Ð"7 Creek Park Racecourse Ð"8 Ð"4 Ð"2 #– AL JADDAF Dubai MARQADH Ras al Khor International Wildlife GARHOUD Airport Sanctuary AL Meydan RAMOOL Racecourse QÌ66 RAS AL KHOR PË89 243 DEIRA & EASTERN CREEK NORTH
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Inte 4 û # 25 û # 43 # ÿ # 42 ÿ # ¤ AOur beat-up Story old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Our Writers Andrea Schulte-Peevers Dubai Born and raised in Germany and educated in London and at UCLA, An- drea has travelled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to dozens of countries, including several in North Africa and the Middle East. She’s authored or contributed to some 80 Lonely Planet titles, including the 6th edition of this guide, the Pocket Dubai guide and the Oman, UAE & the Arabian Peninsula guide. After years of living in LA, Andrea now happily makes her home in Berlin. Andrea also wrote the Plan section and the Sleeping chapter.
Jenny Walker Abu Dhabi, Day Trips from Dubai & Abu Dhabi For over a decade Jenny Walker has written extensively on the Middle East in many Lonely Planet pub- lications and is a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers. She has a long academic engagement in the region (dissertation on Doughty and Lawrence, MPhil thesis from Oxford University on the perception of the Arabic Orient and current PhD studies at NTU). Associate Dean at an engineering college in Oman since 2008, she has travelled in 110 countries from Mexico to Mongolia. Jenny also wrote the Understand and Survival Guide sections.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 8th edition – Sep 2015 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74220 885 5 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 2015 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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