Dubai & Abu Dhabi
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Plan Your Trip 1 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Dubai & Abu Dhabi “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Andrea Schulte-Peevers and Jenny Walker Contents PlanPlan Your Your Trip Trip page 1 4 Welcome to Dubai Top Itineraries ...............16 Eating ........................... 27 & Abu Dhabi .................... 4 If You Like... ................... 18 Drinking & Nightlife... 31 Dubai & Abu Dhabi’s Month by Month ...........20 Entertainment ............35 Top 10 .............................. 6 With Kids ....................... 23 Shopping ...................... 37 What’s New ....................13 For Free ......................... 25 Sports & Activities ....42 Need to Know ................14 Explore Dubai & Abu Dhabi 46 Neighbourhoods Downtown Dubai ..........83 Abu Dhabi ................... 129 at a Glance .................. 48 Jumeirah & Around .....101 Day Trips from Dubai Deira ..............................50 Dubai Marina & Palm & Abu Dhabi .............. 170 Bur Dubai ......................65 Jumeirah ......................116 Sleeping ..................... 178 Understand Dubai & Abu Dhabi 191 Dubai & Abu Dhabi Politics & Economy .... 199 The Environment ........207 Today ........................... 192 Identity & Culture .......203 The Arts........................211 History ......................... 194 Survival Guide 213 Transport ..................... 214 Language .....................228 Directory A–Z .............. 219 Index ............................ 234 Dubai Maps 241 FRANK FELL/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES FELL/GETTY FRANK © IMAGES MQ/GETTY NAUFAL (left) Fresh dates on display in Al Ain (p173) © IMAGES MELLOR/GETTY CHRIS (above) Burj Khalifa (p85), Downtown Dubai (right) Souvenirs for sale in Dubai’s shopping neighbourhoods (p37) Jumeirah & Around Bur Dubai Marina & p101 Palm Jumeirah Dubai p65 Deira p116 p50 Downtown Dubai p83 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 16 Top Itineraries Day One Day Two Bur Dubai (p65) Jumeirah (p101) Start with a cultural breakfast at the Kick off day two with a guided tour M M of the stunning , Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Jumeirah Mosque Cultural Understanding for a rare chance then cab it down the coast towards the icon- to meet locals and eat home-cooked Emi- ic Burj Al Arab and explore the charming rati food. Delve further into local culture Madinat Jumeirah village, perhaps stock- and history with a spin around Al Fahidi ing up on camel toys and pashminas at its Historic District, dipping in and out of the faux souq or taking an abra ride around its various small museums and shops before network of canals past Arabian-style hotels finishing up at the nearby Dubai Museum. and lush gardens. Lunch Process impressions over lunch Lunch Enjoy Burj Al Arab views and lunch at the Arabian Tea House (p73). at Souk Madinat Jumeirah (p112). Deira (p50) Downtown Dubai (p83) R Enjoy the short stroll to the breezy R It’s the hottest part of the day so Bur Dubai Souq via the atmos- make a beeline for the Dubai Mall pheric Hindi Lane, then catch an abra and visit the watery wonderland of the (traditional water taxi) across Dubai Creek Aquarium before giving your credit cards to forage for bargains in the bustling Deira a workout. Watch the sun set from the lofty souqs. Peruse exotic potions in the Spice observation terrace of the Burj Khalifa Souq and dazzling jewellery in the Gold (book way ahead) then enjoy alfresco happy- Souq, perhaps stopping for a juice or shwar- hour drinks at Calabar. ma at Ashwaq Cafeteria. Walk along the busy dhow wharves and snap photographs Dinner Marvel at the Dubai Fountain of the colourful cargo vessels. during a meal at Thiptara (p93). Dinner Relax during a dinner cruise Downtown Dubai (p83) aboard Al Mansour Dhow (p61). N Check out the killer views and cocktails at Neos or belt out your top Deira (p50) number at Harry Ghatto’s at the Jumeirah N After dinner, take a taxi to QDs and Emirates Towers. wind down with a drink or a sheesha (water pipe) while counting the twinkling lights of the Dubai skyline across the Creek. 17 PLAN YOUR TRIP Day Three Day Four TO P I ti Al Quoz (p88) Abu Dhabi (p129) N (Hint: Pack your beach gear.) Greet Begin your tour of Abu Dhabi at the eraries M the day with strong java and a M magnificent Sheikh Zayed Grand healthy breakfast at Tom & Serg, an ultra- Mosque (closed during prayer times), at hip industrial loft cafe, before perusing the the gateway to this capital city. Board the latest in Middle Eastern art on a gallery Big Bus here and drive past the man- hop around the Alserkal Avenue ware- groves off the city’s Eastern Corniche. house complex in the industrial district Alight at Manarat Al Saadiyat to learn of Al Quoz. Afterwards head to The Beach about the city’s feisty future, built on its at JBR for lunch. pearling past – a past you can encounter at the dhow harbour. Lunch Try the Counter (p119) or another beachside restaurant. Lunch Tuck into a lavish Emirati buffet at Al Arish Restaurant (p158). Dubai Marina (p116) R Dedicate the afternoon to sloth- Abu Dhabi (p129) dom. Stake out a spot on the beach, R Visit the fish market and watch either for free at JBR Open Beach or by the fishermen mend their nets splurging for the sophisticated Meydan before leaving Al Mina for the Corniche. Beach Club, then spend the afternoon Hire a bike from Funride opposite the working on your tan and swimming in Sheraton and cycle part of the 8km to the the crystalline Gulf. There are showers for public beach, passing the city’s impressive rinsing off before showing off the day’s tower blocks. Enjoy the Gulf breeze with a view of the marina and uninhabited Lulu Dinner Take in glittering marina views Island. Rise to the 74th-floor observation over seafood at Aquara (p122). Dinner Savour seafood at Sayad (p142) in the opulent Emirates Palace. glow during sundowners at Bliss Lounge or Pure Sky Lounge. deck of the Jumeirah at Etihad Towers for the highest high tea in the city. Dubai Marina (p116) Follow up with a digestive stroll N along the Dubai Marina water- Abu Dhabi (p129) front past bobbing yachts and glittering N Enjoy post-dinner drinks at the futuristic high-rises, perhaps stopping for glamorous Etoiles in the Emirates a nightcap and breathtaking views at the Palace and then rejoin the real world with Observatory or Atelier M. a coffee and sheesha at one of the late- ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 241 Dubai Maps Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Sikh Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lookout Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International Other Sight Park State/Province Pass Disputed Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park Bodysurfing Cliff Diving Population Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National) Course/Tour Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Drinking & Nightlife Tram Mudflat Cafe Underground station Park/Forest Other Transport Entertainment Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book MAP INDEX e # 0 5 km 1 Deira & Eastern Creek North 0 2.5 miles (p244) The World 2 Deira & Eastern Creek South (p246) 3 Bur Dubai & Western Creek North (p248) Ð"9 The Gulf 4 Bur Dubai & Western Creek South (p252) PALM 5 East Jumeirah & Around Port JUMEIRAH (p254) Rashid 6 West Jumeirah & Around Ð"5 SHINDAGHA (p256) Ð"3 Jumeirah BUR Sunset Beach 7 Downtown Dubai (p258) DUBAI Kite Beach DUBAI DEIRA DUBAI Beach PË94 Park MARINA JUMEIRAH 8 Al Quoz (p260) INTERNET CITY UMM Dubai Marina & Palm Jumeirah SUQEIM PË92 SATWA 9 SAFA Al Safa Za'abeel Ð"1 (p262) QÌ11 Park Park AL AL FINANCIAL KARAMA BARSHA DOWNTOWN QUOZ CENTRE PORT Ð"6 DUBAI ZA'ABEELQÌEI 11 SAEED Jebel Ali Ð"7 Creek Park Racecourse Ð"8 Ð"4 Ð"2 #– AL JADDAF Dubai MARQADH Ras al Khor International Wildlife GARHOUD Airport Sanctuary AL Meydan RAMOOL Racecourse QÌ66 RAS AL KHOR PË89 l 243 t i ba s ationa Map on p244 89 1 km DEIRA & EASTERN CREEK NORTH # – rpor Ð " le PË 5 rn Du Ai mi æ Top Sights p52 20 Spice Island.................................................G7 2 D A Ð " Inte .5 AL RT D 2 MOOL IR 1 Gold Souq .................................................... B1 Sumibiya............................................(see 32) EE PO RA DE SA Table 9...............................................(see 30) RHOU A id æ Sights p53 21 Xiao Wei Yang .............................................C6 rt sh GA I DEIRA EASTERN& CREEK NORTH GH Po Al Ahmadiya School ...........................(see