2 Culinary Connoisseurs Culinary Connoisseurs Inside:

Introduction ...... 5 Best New Restaurants Best Sous Chefs Past honorees ...... 6 Hostel New Orleans ...... 16 Emanuel Jones ...... 31 Culinary Connoisseurs Latil’s Landing ...... 16 Brandon Muetzel ...... 31 event photos ...... 20 Restaurant Amis ...... 17 Alfred Singleton ...... 32 Restaurant Rambla ...... 18 Heather Young ...... 32 Best Fine Dining Establishments Best Caterers Best Sommeliers Arnaud’s ...... 7 Joel Catering ...... 19 Joe Briand ...... 33 Emeril’s Delmonico ...... 8 LaBella’s Catering ...... 19 BY FRANK AYMAMI COVER PHOTO Muriel’s Jackson Square ...... 8 Best Pastry Chefs Ralph’s on the Park ...... 9 Best Owners Simone Fleming ...... 33 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse ...... 9 John Besh and Tariq Hanna ...... 34 Octavio Mantilla ...... 25 Andre McKendall ...... 34 Best Casual Upscale Dining Dickie Brennan ...... 25 Laurent Moecklin ...... 35 Published by the NOPG LLC Establishments Ralph Brennan ...... 26 Marguerite Riehm ...... 35 111 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Café Giovanni ...... 10 Emeril Lagasse ...... 26 Suite 1440, Metairie, La. 70005 Clancy’s ...... 10 Duke LoCicero ...... 27 (504)834-9292; Fax: (504)837-2258 Cochon ...... 11 Best Maitre D’s Dick and Jenny’s ...... 11 Best Executive Chefs Michael Juan ...... 36 Publisher and president: D. Mark Singletary Herbsaint ...... 12 Scott Boswell ...... 27 Associate Publisher: Lisa Blossman Justin Devillier ...... 28 Legend Managing Editor: Greg LaRose Best Neighborhood Dining Tenney Flynn ...... 28 Ella Brennan ...... 36 News Editor: Christian Moises Establishments Brian Landry ...... 29 Associate editor: Autumn C. Giusti Bear’s Po-Boys ...... 13 Gus Martin ...... 29 Lifetime Achievement Art director: Alex Borges La Petite Grocery ...... 13 Jacques Saleun ...... 30 Sterling Constant ...... 37 Account executives: Liz Baldini, Jeanne Farrell, Mandina’s ...... 14 David Slater ...... 30 Bob and Sandy Defelice ...... 37 Cassie Foreman, Ginger Graf, Coco Evans Judd Parasol’s Restaurant and Bar . . .14 Shirley Lee ...... 38 Production manager: Julie Bernard Radosta’s ...... 15 Jorge Pesantes ...... 38 Salvo’s Seafood and Deli ...... 15

Latil’s Landing Restaurant 225-473-9380 www.HoumasHouse.com

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4 Culinary Connoisseurs Introduction VÉÇzÜtàâÄtà|ÉÇá

Cream of the Crop to EMERIL LAGASSE EMERIL’S DELMONICO recognized for and Chef DAVID SLATER of Emeril’s New Orleans Tasty contributions for being chosen as a CityBusiness Culinary Connoisseur!

FOOD — FOR MOST OF US — is one of the top perks of living in New Orleans. It’s also one of the most prevalent talking points. When we go out for lunch or dinner, someone inevitably brings up the new restaurant around the corner, where they ate last night or where they’re going tomorrow evening. This conversation usu- ally leads to a string of restaurants being named or how great their gumbo is. It’s only fitting we raise a glass to the restaurants Christian Moises and people who make those conversations so tasty News Editor with Culinary Connoisseurs, recognizing 50 pro- fessionals and establishments in the region’s culinary industry based on cuisine, business success and community involvement. Honorees were divided into 13 categories: fine dining, casual upscale dining, neighborhood dining, new restaurants, caterers, owners, execu- tive chefs, sous chefs, pastry chefs, sommeliers, maitre d’s, legends and lifetime achievement. Many people are familiar with John Besh, Emeril Lagasse and the Brennan family, but what about The Ritz-Carlton’s cupcake expert Simone Fleming or Palace Café soux chef Brandon Muetzel, whose favorite ingredient is the egg? 800 Tchoupitoulas 1300 ST. Charles Avenue 504.528.9393 504.525.4937 Did you know La Petite Grocery executive chef Justin Devillier enjoys eating homemade tacos? Sterling Constant, who’s been at Antoine’s for almost 42 years, can tell if a table is out of place by looking at the leg. Sucre pastry chef Tariq Hanna’s guilty pleasure is Little Debbie Swiss Rolls right out of the fridge. The people profiled in the following pages are the people who make our culinary industry so famous, so successful and one of the biggest rea- sons people worldwide know us and visit our region. In addition to countless hours of community service their staffs provide to the community, they’ve also made a commitment to support our local producers by frequenting area farmer’s markets and seafood suppliers. CityBusiness thanks each of them not only for their tasty contribu- tions, but for their commitment to the New Orleans area. Congratulations to the Culinary Connoisseurs of 2009.•

News Editor Christian Moises can be reached at 293-9249 or by e-mail at [email protected].

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New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 5 Culinary Connoisseurs 2008 Honorees

Best Fine Dining Best New Restaurants Best Executive Chefs Best Pastry Chefs Establishments 5 Fifty 5 Rene Bajeux Beth Biundo Antoine’s Restaurant Lüke John Besh Tariq Hanna The Dakota Restaurant MiLa Kim Kringlie Chris Newton August Nathan’s Restaurant Brian Landry New City Grille Donald Link Best Maitre D’s Best Casual Upscale Duke LoCicero Robin Bordelon Dining Establishments Best Caterers Spencer Minch Vedran Komazec Drago’s Seafood Restaurant Fleur de lis New Orleans Darin Nesbit Sergio Lopez Lüke Cuisine Mike Regua Sal and Judy’s Food Art Susan Spicer Legends Tommy’s Cuisine Martin Wine Cellar Leah Chase Patton’s Caterers Best Sous Chefs Paul Prudhomme Best Neighborhood William Briand Dining Establishments Best Owners Larry Herbert Lifetime Blue Duck Café John Besh Mike Nelson Achievement Byblos Restaurant Tommy Cvitanovich Shirley Anthony Deanie’s Seafood — The Tastebuds: Best Sommeliers Marie Laborde Bucktown Greg Reggio, Hans Limburg, Michael Juan Dalton Milton Mother’s Restaurant Gary Darling Chris Ycaza Shirley Rubin

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6 Culinary Connoisseurs Best Arnaud’s Fine Dining 813 Bienville St., New Orleans Establishments Interview with vice president Katy Casbarian

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Executive chef: Tommy DiGiovanni Opened: 1918 Price range: Entrees range between $25 and $39, with an inclusive cost for the average diner of about $75. Cuisine: Creole

Noted for: We’re probably best known for our Shrimp Arnaud, our flag- ship appetizer. It’s basically a shrimp remoulade, but we took out the mayonnaise base and made it a tangy, mustard-based remoulade.

Community involvement: We are involved with the Lighthouse for the Blind, and we sit on the French Quarter Business Association board. We also have a strong commitment to the state and local board of the Louisiana Restaurant Association, whose educational foundation pro- vides culinary education to students throughout the state.

Major milestones: One of the biggest milestones for this restaurant was my father Matthew Downs, left, and Derek Licero purchasing it from the Casenave family in 1978. He bought the Most notable guests: chat over drinks at Arnaud’s. restaurant when it was on the brink of shutting down and We’ve hosted a number of U.S. presidents, including Ronald restored it to its original grandeur. We were really fortunate that Reagan, George H.W.Bush and Bill Clinton. Presidents Bush the majority of our dedicated management team returned to and Clinton ate together, and the reception they received was Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: work after the hurricanes of 2005.Their presence is what makes bigger than that of any celebrity guests we’ve served. Brad Pitt My father. Always has been and always will be, in this indus- the restaurant what it is. More recently,we were excited to serve and Angelina Jolie have eaten here, but our staff especially try and outside of it.• as a film set for “The Curious Case of Benjamin Button.” loves hosting Drew Brees, a real local hero. — Tom Leggett Wake Up! IT’S TIME TO GET SERIOUS ABOUT BUSINESS

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New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 7 Best Emeril’s Delmonico Fine Dining 829 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans Establishments Interview with president and chief operating officer Eric Linquest

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Executive chef: Spencer Minch Opened: 1998 Price range: Between $6 and $12 for starters, and between $24 and $35 for main courses. Cuisine: We serve modern Creole cuisine. It’s a little more traditional than Emeril’s, but still contemporary Creole.

Noted for: There’s a couple. There’s an appetizer we’re really known for — the braised pork cheeks with Creole dirty rice. We have a well- known charcuterie, or cured meat, program. We cure a lot of our own meats. We’re really well known for our steaks — dry-aged prime steaks, all USDA prime meat and we dry it in house.

Community involvement: All of our restaurants, including Emeril’s Delmonico, do our community involvement through our foundation. We also support Café Reconcile and the Emeril Lagasse Foundation, and we do a lot of fundraisers for schools throughout the city. We’re also involved with the United Way. Most notable guests: experience I had acquired. (I had worked in the restaurant Major milestones: Mayor C. Ray Nagin, former Mayor Marc Morial and various industry for years but was considering a career change.) Our fifth- and 10th-year anniversaries were big milestones. We Saints and Hornets players and coaches. Emeril asked me in 1990 to join him in opening his first haven’t kept track of our millionth customer or those sorts of restaurant as general manager, and for me it has been a career things. Between the hurricane and what it did to the city and Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: and life-changing experience to be a part of his growth and now what the economy’s done, we’re just happy we’re still Probably Emeril himself. He convinced me I had a talent for success.• here to serve the people of New Orleans. the business and that I should take advantage of the years of — Fritz Esker

Best Fine Dining Muriel’s Jackson Square Establishments Interview with co-owner Rick Gratia 801 Chartres St., New Orleans

PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

Executive chef: Gus Martin Opened: 2001 Price range: For lunch, appetizers range between $6 and $9 while entrees run between $10 and $20. At dinner, appetizers run between $7 and $11, while entrees cost between $15 and $35. Cuisine: Contemporary Creole

Noted for: We have about five signature items on our menu, but probably our top item is the pecan-crusted puppy drum served with either craw- fish or crab relish. Close behind are our barbecue shrimp, stuffed redfish with crabmeat dressing, and Gus makes a mean gumbo.

Community involvement: We do 30 to 40 offsite events a year and help a lot of local organizations. I’m from here, and my partner and I have the same philosophy of getting very involved in local events and organizations and always giving back to the community.Some of the organizations we help out include the Le Petit Theatre, the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra, the University of New Orleans, Mount Carmel Academy, the American Cancer From left: Muriel’s Jackson Square executive chef Gus Martin serves lunch to Roshna and Ed Keen. Society, Meals on Wheels and Bridge House. Most notable guests: rant, Fontana’s, in West End Park, and they sold out in 1978. Major milestones: Kate Hudson, Britney Spears, Paul Simon, Sharon Osbourne, I spent time at Court of Two Sisters, then 17 years with the Our biggest milestone is that we have remained a locals’ place — Wayne Gretzky and Nicholas Cage. Brennans and then my partner and I bought Muriel’s. I have about 75 percent of our business is local — even though we are in just always loved being in the food industry.• the heart of the French Quarter. We are proud to play an impor- Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: — Tommy Santora tant role in the New Orleans and French Quarter community. I grew up in the business. My family owned a seafood restau-

8 Culinary Connoisseurs Best Ralph’s on the park Fine Dining 900 City Park Ave., New Orleans Establishments Interview with Haley Bittermann, Ralph Brennan Restaurant Group director of operations and corporate executive chef PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Executive chef: Chip Flanagan Opened: 2003 Price range: Appetizers range between $7 and $14, entrees run between $18 and $39, desserts average about $8 and our current sun- set dining special, which includes three courses after 5 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, costs $25. Cuisine: Innovative contemporary Creole

Noted for: The baked oysters and turtle soup are our most popular items on the menu, but I think what Ralph’s is most noted for and what a huge part of our business comes from is the private party space. We were originally built with hosting private parties in mind.

Community involvement: We’re really proud of how many local nonprofits, charities and other organizations we support, such as City Park and the farmer’s market, by buying from local vendors and volunteering our time over. Our employees are encouraged to volunteer with- in the community and really focus on giving back. Callie Strickland and Richard Kidd enjoy Ralph’s on the Park’s American Chocolate Trio dessert. Major milestones: We just made five years in December, and I think our biggest milestone was reopening the November after Hurricane Most notable guests: ship, and I have been with Ralph Brennan Restaurant Katrina. We became a meeting place for neighbors, where they John McCain, Laura Bush and Allan Touissant Group for 17 years. There is an amazing passion within could go to grab a drink and get some food, spend time with one himself and his family for this industry and this city, and another and be their release. It was real gratifying to bring that Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: you don't find that often.• service to them in their time of need. I started out at Mr. B’s Bistro on a pre-graduation extern- — Tommy Santora

Best Fine Dining Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse Establishments Interview with general manager Mike Miller 3633 Veterans Blvd., Metairie

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse servers Executive chef: Nicole Strassel, left, Pat Gallagher and Terry Boullion deliver entrees to Opened: Frank Rodriguez and The original location on Broad Street opened in 1965, and Marcia Sosa. the Metairie location opened in 1972. Price range: Between $50 and $75 Cuisine: Contemporary Creole

Noted for: That’s obviously the sizzling steaks. That is a signature thing known throughout the country.We’ve also been known as a pow- erhouse lunch-type restaurant. A lot of people come here to cele- brate, too.

Community involvement: We donate gift certificates and auction items for schools and participate in a lot of the local events such as the Fore Kids Foundation with the Zurich Classic. Other events include Taste of the Town, which benefits Lafreniere Park, and the Dennis Leary Foundation to help rebuild New Orleans fire stations after Hurricane Katrina.

Major milestones: One of our more recent milestones was reopening in New Orleans in May. That was something that was needed and something we Most notable guests: Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: wanted to do because we started here in New Orleans. There was Everyone who walks through the door is special, but it’s a nice I started when I was 17 and I’ve been here for about 13 just no way we couldn’t have another Ruth’s Chris in New Orleans. honor to have a lot of the local celebrities who frequent the years. I just love the industry because I have worked with a And for being a local restaurant that started in New Orleans that has restaurant. Fats Domino was here after the storm. Allen lot of great people and you get to meet a variety of guests.• become the largest fine-dining chain in the country, to be able to Toussaint, Harry Connick Jr. and sports guys like Archie and — Craig Guillot take credit from a New Orleans standpoint is a major milestone. Peyton Manning, Reggie Bush and Chris Paul.

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 9 Best Casual Café Giovanni Upscale 117 Decatur St., New Orleans Dining Establishments Interview with manager Nial George PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Nial George, left, and Stephanie Fisher enjoy dinner Executive chef: at Café Giovanni. Duke LoCicero Opened: 1991 Price range: Our appetizers start at $11 and go to $15. Salads run between $8.95 and $14.95, while entrees range from $21.95 to $36.95. Cuisine: We call it New World Italian — basically Italian dishes as well as Creole,but we but we add a variety of sauces as well as fresh ingre- dients to enhance those dishes. The end result is Italian and Creole food done in a way that is totally unique and different.

Noted for: In-demand menu items include the restaurant’s Shrimp Fra Diablo, Cajun angel hair and Pasta Gambino. But the most pop- ular item is Cafe Giovanni’s Duck Classico. It’s a roasted half duck served with sweet marsala garlic glaze and served with mashed potatoes and vegetables. Our customers love it.

Community involvement: Our big project is the Chef Duke’s Foundation for Kids, which is a big drive we sponsor every year at the restaurant to raise money for things like Children’s Hospital. Sometimes the money goes to different types of equipment that might be needed at the hospital, and other times just for things like toys for the children. as possible. As a result, this was one of the first restaurants to which is a beautiful thing. reopen just a few weeks after the storm. Major milestones: Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: I think it would undoubtedly be the aftermath of Katrina. Most notable guests: I’ve been in the industry since 2003.My goal was to learn everything Because we are located in the French Quarter, we did not have NBA All-Star Larry Bird, R&B artist Usher and Mayor C. Ray possible about the business, as far as the front and the back of the a lot of flooding, probably less than a foot. But Chef Duke Nagin. We get a lot of local politicians and leaders, members of house goes,so that someday I might open my own bar and lounge.• thought it was important to get life back to normal as quickly the state Legislature and even other well-known restaurateurs, — Garry Boulard Best Casual Clancy’s Upscale 6100 Annunciation St., New Orleans Dining Establishments Interview with owner Brad Hollingsworth PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Executive chef: Steve Manning Opened: 1983 in its current form, but Clancy’s was also a neighborhood restaurant and bar since the late 1940s. Price range: Between $21 and $32 Cuisine: Creole

Noted for: Probably seafood, soft shell crabs and crabmeat dishes.

Major milestones: We pride ourselves on not changing. We’re a very traditional restaurant. What we do, we do 365 days a year. We don’t flow with the most current trends. We don’t have a Web site. We’re old fashioned.

Most notable guests: Recently, James Carville and Mary Matalin. We make an effort to treat celebrities like local customers. We don’t put their pictures on the wall.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: I grew up in Des Moines, Iowa, came here in 1973 and fell in love with New Orleans restaurants. I worked at the Pontchartrain Hotel, LeRuth’s and Galatoire’s. I always wanted to own one Jennifer Henry, left, and Mary Larson share a bottle myself and I got the opportunity.• of wine during a dinner at Clancy’s. — Fritz Esker

10 Culinary Connoisseurs Best Casual cochon Upscale 930 Tchoupitoulas St., New Orleans Dining Establishments Interview with manager Audrey Rodriguez PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Executive chef: Stephen Stryjewski and Donald Link are co-owners and executive chefs. Opened: 2006 Price range: Lunch can range between $8 and $18, while dinner can run between $8 and $24. Cuisine: Authentic Cajun

Noted for: We’re noted for bringing moonshine to New Orleans. People love our authentic Cajun food and pork.

Community involvement: Cochon participates regularly in events that support the commu- nity and charity organizations, including our annual Cochon Cotillion for Bridge House, the Louisiana SPCA’s Howling Success and the Audubon Nature Center’s Zoo-to-Do.

Major milestones: The 2007 James Beard Best New Restaurant Award

Most notable guests: We’ve had several actors, including Cameron Diaz, Ewan Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: Honeymooners Jon and Ivy Reinecker share lunch at Cochon. McGregor, Brad Pitt, Vince Vaughn and Renee Zellweger, It’s all about the joy of providing delicious food in a comfort- writer J.K. Rowling and celebrity chefs Mario Batali, Daniel able setting so everyone can escape, celebrate and feel good.• Boulud, Tom Colicchio, Elizabeth Falkner, Alice Waters and — Diana Chandler Andrew Zimmern.

Best Casual Dick & jenny’s Upscale 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., New Orleans Dining Establishments Interview with owner Will Peters PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

Dick and Jenny’s server Alba Executive chef: Houston drops off dessert to Tim Swepston Cecelia Rose Wheeler, who was Opened: visiting from Boise, Idaho, with her mother Jeanmarie Wheeler. 1999 Price range: Our entrees go from about $15 to $35. Cuisine: It’s Creole eclectic. Right now, we’re doing a filé gumbo with a seafood meat pie. We like to run with the old Louisiana favorites and throw a new twist on them. We get influences from all over and just fuse them with good down home food.

Noted for: People are very fond of our fried oysters with Creole remoulade. Our best selling entrée is the bronze pork tenderloin stuffed with goat cheese and pine nuts then topped with a warm tomato bal- samic vinaigrette. We change our menu every three months.

Community involvement: The majority of it is through Tipitina’s. Every year we donate food for Instruments a’ Comin, a private event that helps chil- dren of city schools get instruments for marching bands. We also do some SPCA events and donate gift certificates to schools around town.

Major milestones: When we bought the restaurant in 2005, my wife and I worked our escargot was too salty, but then again he’s British. Just realm in the restaurant is more of the wine and service aspect. there from the day they opened. We were very lucky at the right recently we had Warren Riley. We’ve also had Steve Zahn, What really drives me every day are the customers. It just brings place at the right time. Marisa Tomei,Jim Belushi and some others. a smile to my face to hear from customers that everything was perfect. I owe that to my staff and my chef.• Most notable guests: Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: — Craig Guillot The most famous would have to be Robert Plant. He thought First, it was really just to pay the bills when I was in college. My

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 11 Best Casual herbsaint Upscale 701 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans Dining Establishments Interview with manager Colin O’Neill PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Executive chef: Donald Link Opened: 2000 Price range: Between $45 and $50 for dinner Cuisine: Southern, with French and Italian accents

Noted for: The gumbo. We cure and smoke our own our andouille and tasso that we use to make the gumbo. It’s a real dark-roux kind of gumbo, and we do that with seafood, duck or chicken, and then add the andouille and tasso. There are some things we just can’t take off the menu, such as the fried frog legs with chili butter, because people love them so much. We also have a duck leg confit with dirty rice and a little citrus gastrique that’s been on the menu since opening day,and it’s just immovable.

Community involvement: Being in the Arts District, we do a lot with Julia Street. We’ve done a lot with artist Kirsha Kaechele with KK Projects. We also Chuck Bourque and Melanie Lagarde do stuff with PhotoNOLA, the New Orleans Museum of Art take advantage of the weather during and New Orleans Ballet. Donald’s kids go to École Bilingue de a recent lunch at Herbsaint. la Nouvelle Orleans (French immersion school), and we more or less put on the Fête Française every year. Most notable guests: Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: Major milestones: Jeremiah Towers, the famous chef from San Francisco, Cate One of the great things about this restaurant is that we’re so cen- We opened the first week of October after Katrina. We were Blanchett, Steven Soderbergh, Tim Blake Nelson and James trally located that we get people from Uptown, Downtown, the probably the second or third restaurant to open. Other places LeGros. Then there’s all the local and national musicians. Mayor Business District, tourists, everything. It’s a big old melting pot, were serving red beans and rice and hamburgers, and we C. Ray Nagin comes in every now and again when he’s in town. just like the rest of the city.• opened with a full dinner menu doing the stuff we normally do. And it’s a who’s who of judges and lawyers. — Leah Bartos

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12 Culinary Connoisseurs Best Neighborhood Bear’s Po-Boys Dining 128 W. 21st Ave., Covington Establishments Interview with owner and executive chef Josh Watson

PHOTO BY SHANNON DIECIDUE

From left: Customers Kathy Fielding-Smith and Judy Fielding are greeted Executive chef: by Bear’s Po-Boys owners Josh Watson Josh and Daphne Watson. Opened: January 1977 in Mandeville. It was my parents — Judy and Ronald Watson — who started the business. I worked in it part-time until 1981 and took the business over fully about two years later.In 1990, we moved our operation to Covington, where we have stayed. Price range: Between $5.50 and $10 Cuisine: It is all po-boys. We have the traditional roast beef and barbecue beef po-boys, as well as shrimp po-boys. We started doing the shrimp po-boys after we moved to Covington, and during Lent we can’t sell enough of them. We also make something called the Ferdie, which is a po-boy with roast beef, ham and Swiss cheese.

Noted for: It is undoubtedly our roast beef po-boy.If you eat a roast beef po- boy here,you probably won’t find another one as good anywhere else. We cook our own meat and make our own gravy. A lot of places won’t do that. And there is no fat or grizzle on our sand- wiches — our meat is clean.

Community involvement: We give our sandwiches as door prizes for different events that the Shore, where they opened a sno-ball stand in Mandeville before Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: area schools sponsor and regularly contribute to the St. Jude’s we got into the po-boy business. It’s a family business. My wife and kids work here as does my Children’s Research Hospital. mama, sister and brother-in-law. We’ve all been in this business Most notable guests: for years,and I think you just do what you do best.We really enjoy Major milestones: We haven’t had a lot of celebrities. Steve Johnson of the radio putting out a quality product and making people happy. That’s Probably moving to the North Shore. We started out with Big team of Walton and Johnson used to come in here a lot. We have very important to us. And after all of these years, I can honestly Bear’s Snoballs in Bucktown in the early 1970s. I made sno-balls a lot of lawyers and doctors who come in, as well as construction say I don’t have anything bad to say about this business.• there as a kid. Then my parents decided to relocate to the North workers. It’s a broad spectrum of people. — Garry Boulard

Best Neighborhood La Petite grocery Dining 4238 Magazine St., New Orleans Establishments Interview with executive chef Justin Devillier and general manager Bryan Hutchings

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Executive chef: Justin Devillier Opened: 2004 Price range: Entrees run between $17 and $26, while lunch can run between $12 and $21. Cuisine: American with Southern influence and a French technique. We try to be really creative by not serving solely Southern dishes.

Noted for: We’re noted for having a warm and inviting environment where individuals can come to enjoy lunch or an evening out without having to get too fancy.

Community involvement: We definitely enjoy working with the community as often as pos- sible. Last year, we worked with Share Our Strength, which works to abate childhood hunger. We also try to remain actively involved with schools as much as possible by helping with vari- ous fundraisers. Marianna Roll, left, and Alison Mehr chat over lunch at La Petite Grocery. Major milestones: In 2008, our revenue increased by 25 percent. Another high- light was opening for lunch in 2007. We had a great demand for Most notable guests: Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: it, so we created the menu and it became an instance success. Local and national artists and entertainers frequent us quite It’s great networking, and you get to meet a lot of people from dif- 2008 was our first full year of being open for lunch. often — a lot of local notables actually. ferent industries. It’s also a pleasure putting a dish together that puts a smile on people’s faces.It’s like having a party every night.• — Nayita Wilson

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 13 Best Neighborhood Mandina’s Dining 3800 Canal St., New Orleans Establishments Interview with owner Cindy Mandina

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Executive chef: Isadore Pilart Jr. Opened: 1932 Price range: Between $8.95 and $21.95 Cuisine: Creole-Italian

Noted for: We’re very well known for our turtle soup and seafood gumbo. People really like our trout meuniere almandine and our daily specials, such as red beans and rice on Mondays and liver on Thursdays.

Community involvement: We donate food to different charitable organizations and schools, such as Lark in the Park, Jesuit High School and Camp Tiger. We give gift certificates to Mount Carmel High School for their Spring Fling and other events throughout the city.

Major milestones: Reopening in February 2007 after repairs from Hurricane Katrina, which left us under 8 feet of water. We made the choice to come back amid all the complications of rebuilding Mandina’s server Emily Marziale heads for the dining room during a recent dinner rush. and the uncertainty of the times.

Most notable guests: Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: expediting, seeing the final product and people smiling We love it when Harry Connick Jr. and his beautiful wife come I just love it. I love the feel, I love the vibe, I love the feel of cer- because of the food. I love that two-hour lunch rush when in. We’ve also had Magic Johnson, Mayor C. Ray Nagin, James tain times of the year like Christmas, Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest everyone’s working as a team.• Carville, John Goodman and Dr. John. when people come back in town to visit their maw maw. I like — Fritz Esker

Best Neighborhood Parasol’s Dining 2533 Constance St., New Orleans Establishments Interview with co-owner Jeffrey Carreras

PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

Head chef: Tim Seeman Opened: 1952 Price range: Between $4 and $15 Cuisine: Roast beef, oyster and shrimp po-boys

Noted for: Roast beef po-boy, a neighborhood atmosphere and it’s the place to be on St. Patrick’s Day.

Community involvement: St. Baldrick’s, the American Cancer Society and the Louisiana Peace Corps Association Christmas in October. This year’s St. Baldrick’s fundraiser at Parasol’s was March 12 with the theme of Be Brave. Go Bald — Shave the way to conquer kids’ cancer and try to raise $10,000. We’re in our eighth year running the fundraiser. My brother passed away from cancer in 1994, and raising money to find cures for the disease has always been important to us.

Major milestones: Being listed in the following publications: Food and Wine Magazine for The Go List in 2007; Where Y’at Magazine’s Parasol’s bartender Sara Valashinas hands a roast beef po-boy to David Easson. 2007 Best of The Big Easy’s Critics’ and Readers’ Picks for best place to play pinball and video games, best juke box and best roast beef po-boy; Esquire magazine for the best po-boys Most notable guests: Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: in America in June 2006; and Where Y’at Magazine for best Susan Sarandon, John Goodman, Harry Connick Jr. and I love to cook. I love the taste of food and I love the different po-boys in New Orleans in 2005 and 2006. David Toms tastes and variations of New Orleans food.• — Tommy Santora

14 Culinary Connoisseurs Best Neighborhood Radosta’s Dining 249 Aris Ave., Metairie Establishments Interview with owner Don Radosta

PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

Joan and Don Radosta drop off po-boys to Tyler Atkins, Executive chef: left, Corkey Atkins, Betty Atkins and Beth Webb. Everybody does a little bit. I run the restaurant with my wife, Joan, mother, Rosemary,and brothers, Wayne and Mark. But I do most of it. Opened: The restaurant opened June 1, 1975, as a grocery store. We were the fourth generation of grocers. We started cooking one day, threw the groceries out and kept cooking. Price range: Hot lunches range between $7.95 and $8.95, po-boys range between $5.95 and $7.95, seafood po-boys start at about $8.50 and special sandwiches range between $7.50 and $10.95. Cuisine: We have more than 40 kinds of po-boys. That’s our specialty. I make the best gumbo in the city. In 2003, USA Today printed a description of the restaurant’s muffaletta. We probably have the No. 1 fried shrimp in the city. That’s what all our customers tell us. We got everything. Soups, salads, sandwiches, po-boys, egg- plant parmesan, Southwest egg rolls, daily specials and hamburg- ers made with 1 pound of fresh ground chuck.

Noted for: Roast beef po-boy.

Community involvement: We donate cases of hot dogs, buns, etc., to the Jesuit High School Fair, and we donate gallons of corn and shrimp soup to water on the roof. It rained every day for 35 days. It rained so Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: Dominican High School. We also give money to numerous char- hard all the walls just caved in. We were on the national news We love it. ... It’s family-run, a team effort. Everybody pitches ities and organizations, including Jefferson Parish firefighters. for about a month. in and it works well. Joan, my wife, knows everybody’s name and their kids’ names. I tell everybody, “We got the best cus- Major milestones: Most notable guests: tomers and friends on Earth.”• On Jan. 6, 1998, our flat roof collapsed. We had too much The late Sheriff Harry Lee and actor John Goodman. — Amy Ferrara Smith

Best Neighborhood Salvo’s Seafood & deli Dining Establishments Interview with owner Sal St. Philip 7742 Louisiana Highway 23, Belle Chasse

PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

Opened: 1984 Price range: Lunch is about $10 and dinner is about $13. Cuisine: Fried and boiled seafood

Noted for: Boiled seafood and our seasoning. It’s not too hot. It’s not too bland. It’s just right.

Community involvement: To me, the biggest community thing I did was for Hurricane Katrina. Nothing was open down here, and we couldn’t get our restaurant open. But for 12 days, we used our catering rig to serve up to 350 people a day. People were bringing us frozen food donations, and we had a sort of soup line going for first respon- ders and anyone who wanted to eat. It kind of restored my faith in mankind. We also donate to many causes, including the annual Toys for Tots drive,the Plaquemines Parish Sheriff’s Department and Our Lady of Perpetual Help Church.

Major milestones: Server Meredith Boardman runs an all-you-can- Marking 25 years in business. Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: eat seafood platter at Salvo’s in Belle Chase. Cooking is something I’ve done all my life. To share our Most notable guests: recipes with all of the people and to have them appreciate the Elijah Wood came in during Mardi Gras a couple of years ago. food is very rewarding.• I think he got the people stirred more than anybody. — Diana Chandler

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 15 Best New Hostel New Orleans 329 Decatur St., New Orleans Restaurants Interview with co-owner Remi De Matteo PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

Executive chef: Richard Richardson Opened: January 2008 Price range: Appetizers range between $5 and $16, while entrees run between $18 and $28. Cuisine: Classical European with Southern influences

Noted for: Stacked duck. It’s a grilled duck breast with a Napoleon of crispy potatoes, warm rillette and caramelized onions served with a port and duck glace reduction.

Community involvement: I have always been a big supporter of March of Dimes. We also do City Park’s annual Love in the Garden event, and we do some work with the Louisiana SPCA. We give back to the New Hostel New Orleans executive Orleans community as much as we can. chef Richard Richardson matches wine to a cheese Major milestones: selection for Meaghan Buntin. Since we just started a year ago, we’re trying to get the word out as much as we can. When we got our first Zagat ratings in May 2008, they were positive, so that was a good start. Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: overall experience you’re providing your customers. When we My background was in nightclubs. I was a former co-owner of brought in Chef Richard, we saw his passion right away for cook- Most notable guests: Republic and general manager of 360 and was always interested in ing. … His passion really motivated us to make this restaurant Jennifer Biel, Will Patton, Michael O’Keefe, Johnny Abrahams getting in the restaurant business. It’s an experience totally differ- work, and we have been doing well so far.• and Jason Lewis from “Sex and the City.” ent from the nightclub scene. It’s more rewarding in terms of the — Tommy Santora

Latil’s landing Best New 40136 Highway 942, Darrow Restaurants Interview with executive chef Jeremy Langlois PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

Latil’s Landing executive chef Jeremy Langlois talks with diners Mike and Samantha Gulino. Executive chef: Jeremy Langlois Opened: 2005 Price range: On average, $70 per person. Cuisine: I call it plantation cuisine — it’s basically just grand Louisiana cuisine. If you were to come to Houmas House, everything is about creating an atmosphere that everything is grand. With the restaurant, we keep it in the same motif as being a show- place, and as a cuisine it’s meant to reflect that. When people come to eat at Latil’s, I’m not trying to show them a historic representation of Louisiana by any stretch. But at the same time, I do a mixture of both — some things can be very con- temporary,but there is a certain tradition in Louisiana cuisine, and we do that as well.

Noted for: We do a Community Coffee-marinated rack of lamb. We have a unique soup — a bisque of curried pumpkin and crawfish. Those two always seem to be the standouts that have become signature dishes. Major milestones: Most notable guests: Community involvement: We opened in January 2005, and in March of that year we had We’ve had a couple celebrities come by: Jennifer Love Hewitt, We host the annual conference for Louisiana Endowment for the John Mariani of Esquire Magazine come in, and honor us as Best Jennifer Coolidge, Jerry O’Connell. We’ve done a couple events Humanities. I do a cooking event every year in Baton Rouge for New Restaurant for the country.Random things happened to get with local artist George Rodrigue where we’ve put his art all over cystic fibrosis. The owner, Kevin Kelly, is also big into the New filmed at Houmas House, on the grounds. We were just on “Top the property. I can probably think of five banquets Gov. Bobby Orleans charity Save Our Cemeteries. Chef” for the season finale they did in New Orleans. Jindal’s held at the property.• — Leah Bartos

16 Culinary Connoisseurs Best New restaurant amis 190 U.S. Highway 190 North, Covington Restaurants Interview with executive chef Marvin Tweedy

PHOTO BY SHANNON DIECIDUE

Restaurant Amiz executive chef Marvin Tweedy greets customers Armand Bennett, left, Ron Mangipano and Robert Mejia. Executive Chef: Marvin Tweedy Opened: May 2008 Price range: Between $28 and $40 Cuisine: I would classify it as a progressive Southern cuisine, but there’s also a heavy French influence.

Noted for: We’re the only restaurant on the North Shore that serves prime beef (top 2 percent of beef in the country). The most popular item would be our filets, served either as tournedos — aka petit filets — 8-ounce center cut filet or 12-ounce center cut filet.

Community involvement: We took all of our proceeds from opening night and donated them to the Hope House in Covington. We also have a lot of charitable donations for St. Paul’s and St. Scholastica (schools) and the Children’s Museum. We all focus on three charities that are close to us and that we think can really ben- efit the community. Most notable guests: industry, and at a very young age I got a lot of tours of the St. Tammany Parish District Attorney Walter Reed and State kitchens of New Orleans. My first memories of cooking are on Major milestones: Sen. Jack Donahue his boat. One thing I remember is doing breaded veal for these Surviving the one-two punch of hurricanes Gustav and Ike. guys — Saints players like Danny Abramowicz and Archie We were faced with a lot of adversity when we opened. Gustav Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: Manning. I couldn’t see myself doing anything else. It’s defi- came and took out our electricity for three days. Trying to My grandfather. He was very involved with the New Orleans nitely a labor of love.• come back and reopen after Gustav, we get in there and then Saints, lived on a boat in the West End Marina, and I spent a — Fritz Esker here comes Ike. lot of time with him. He was very in touch with the restaurant

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New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 17 Best New restaurant rambla 221 Camp St., New Orleans Restaurants Interview with manager Justin Pelto PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

Executive chef: Scott Maki Opened: Oct. 1 Price range: Tapas can range between $6 and $14, while entrees can run between $19 and $23. The main focus is on the small dishes. Cuisine: We serve tapas with a Spanish and French influence and with regional Louisiana ingredients. It has a New Orleans flair.

Noted for: Patatas Bravas, which is a dish of crisp potatoes tossed in a smoky-spiced Spanish paprika with a garlic aioli.

Community involvement: The restaurant has already made donations to local charities, including gift certificates that charities can raffle. To help the local economy, we focus on buying local produce and pro- teins, and we participate in a recycling program that enables us to use recycled glass.

Major milestones: Rachel Ray, the national culinary connoisseur, visited Restaurant Rambla in February to feature its efforts in going Restaurant Rambla owner Kim Kringlie, green with recycling. The show is expected to air this fall. left, and wife, Simone, enjoy cocktails Also, increasing business and becoming more known in the Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: with Jon Drake and wife, Heidi. city has been good for us. It’s something that’s always intrigued me. I like to come in and learn more day to day and become more immersed in the culi- Most notable guests: nary world.• Numerous well-known locals have already stopped by. — Amy Ferrara Smith

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18 Culinary Connoisseurs Best LaBella’s Catering Caterers Interview with owner Joe La Bella PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Executive chef: EMT, parish and city essential personnel to Joe La Bella feed and house anyone who needed it. They Opened: can grab a hot meal, nap and just refuel for 1966 their jobs. It makes me feel necessary,and it’s Price range: the right thing to do. More recently,I worked It varies depending on the kind of event, but with Kenner officials and got a boxing train- our weddings average about $20 a person. ing program started at the Wentwood gym in Cuisine: January. We have about 40 kids involved. It varies from every event we do. Our clients grab a theme and run with it — it could be Major milestones: Mediterranean one day,Italian the next, then We really came into the public eye in 2002 Creole another. It’s mostly New Orleans when the Super Bowl was held in New Creole with our jambalayas, muffulettas and Orleans and we were one of four vendors gumbos, and believe it or not, our bread allowed in the Superdome. The executive chef pudding is a hit. referred us to The Food Network, which was filming for a show called “Food Finds,” and Noted for: they produced a segment on us. It aired Our muffulettas and bread pudding. We nationwide the Thursday before the game,and probably sell more muffulettas than anybody our shipping business nationwide just took off. in town because we have a lot of corporate We were shipping muffulettas everywhere. accounts and cater for the Superdome and the Arena through Centerplate. That’s saying Most notable guests: a lot, because there are a bunch of places in Kevin Costner, Delta Burke, Julia Roberts, New Orleans that sell muffulettas. Sissy Spacek, Jack Lemon and Billy Crystal. When they filmed “JFK,” it was a huge expo- Community involvement: sure for us. We did about three parties for For more than 10 years, for every named Camelot Productions, and it really helped storm, we have opened our doors 24 hours a expose our business.• day, seven days a week to all police, fire, — Tommy Santora

Best Joel Catering Caterers Interview with president Sarah Hall PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Executive chef: Evan Venson Opened: 1993 Price range: Our price range is crazy flexible. We have box lunches for $12 per person, yet our high-end, more formal events are $150 per person. So we really work hard to get to know the client, under- stand their needs, and then we work to match their budget. Cuisine: There’s a passion for New Orleans food, but our goal is to take it to the next level and create something more original. Instead of just serving jambalaya, we do a jambalaya cake that has sautéed spinach, barbecue shrimp and a great New Orleans-style barbe- cue sauce on top. We have the authentic New Orleans flavors but present them in a way that is interesting and delicious.

Noted for: Lobster corndog. We can’t even explain the phenomenon that is the lobster corndog. It’s a puree of lobster and fresh cream dipped in cornmeal, battered and fried, served with a passion fruit aioli. The waiters get accosted.

Community involvement: Joel Catering president Sarah Hall and owner Joel Dondis. We donate our services to various charities, but one of our people affected by Hurricane Rita. It was really meaningful for favorites is KIDsmART; we donate to their fundraiser every fall. us as individuals and also for our company.It allowed us to help in the very beginnings of recovery. Major milestones: The Palace for “The Curious Case of Benjamin Button,” and We started out pretty small, and I’d say our biggest event in Most notable guests: we were very happy when Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie attend- 2000 was 12,000 people for Tulane. That really opened the We have been privileged to cater many movie premieres and ed. We catered a fundraiser for Obama when he was campaign- doors for us to do a really different style of catering. We also did screenings, such as “All the King’s Men” with Jude Law, Kate ing, and we catered an event for Bush when he was in office.• work for FEMA, serving 3,000 meals a day in Lake Charles to Winslet and Sean Penn. More recently, we did a screening at — John Breerwood

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 19 Culinary Connoisseurs celebration

Several hundred people attended the 2009 Culinary Connoisseurs cocktail reception April 7 at the New Orleans Museum of Art. Medallions were presented to the 50 honorees upon arriving and New Orleans CityBusiness Publisher Mark Singletary recognized each honoree later in the evening. These photos and more can be seen on the CityBusiness photo gallery at www.neworleanscitybusiness.com. Photos by Frank Aymami

From left: Mercedes representatives Dean Allison, Christopher Stuben and Carl Keith.

Keri Landry, left, and Sous Chef honoree Heather Young.

Owner honoree Chef Duke LoCicero, left, and Lifetime Achievement honoree Bob Sous Chef honoree Alfred Singleton with wife, Mildred. DeFelice.

20 Culinary Connoisseurs Lifetime Achievement honoree Sterling Constant with wife, Trudy. Legend honoree Elle Brennan with Mercedes representative Jamie Moll, left, and Kathleen Moll.

From left: Bryan Duck, Rachel Whitesides, Jeremy Langlois, Anderson Foster and Cecily Boudreaux. Rob Eisterhold, left, and Cindy Mandina of Neighborhood Establishment honoree Mandina’s.

Sous Chef honoree Brandon Meutzel, left, and Executive Chef honoree Maitre d’ honoree Michael Juan with wife, Brigitte Redpath. Gus Martin. New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 21 From left: CityBusiness Publisher Mark Singletary with Legend honoree Ella Brennan and Owner honoree Dickie Brennan.

Joey and Judy Labella of Caterer honoree La Bella’s Catering. Pastry Chef honoree Simone Fleming with mother, Stella Fleming-Williams.

From left: Bryan Hutchings, Courtney Dodson and Executive Chef honoree Justin Devillier. Executive Chef honoree David Slater, left, and Saleem Nawaz of Fine Dining Establishment honoree Emeril’s Delmonico.

22 Culinary Connoisseurs Lifetime Achievement honoree Shirley Lee, front row middle, with her guests. Sommelier honoree Joe Briand with wife, Shannon.

From left: Kelly LoCicero with husband and honorees Duke Locicero and From left: Leslie Muller, Larry Bridevaux, Pastry Chef honoree Margarite Riehm and Ralph Brennan. Jeanette Jennings.

Lifetime Achievement honoree Jorges Pesantes with wife, Marta. Executive Chef honorees Tenney Flynn, left, and Brian Landry.

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 23 Your Source for Local Business News

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MAY JUNE JULY AUGUST Real Estate Dining & Catering 1 Health Care Education 4 List: HMOs/PPOs & Point of Service Plans 6 3 List: Commercial Leasing Companies List: Independent Caterers List: Four-Year Colleges Construction 8 Real Estate Dining & Catering Banking/Financial Services List: Largest Office Buildings List: French Quarter Hotels 10 Health Care 11 List: Bank/S & L Directors 13 List: Diagnostic Imaging Centers 15 Public Companies Entertainment Green Growth List: Public Companies 17 Technology List: Computer Hardware Retailers Insurance/Investments 18 Law Firms 22 Banking/Financial Services List: Law Firms List: Life Insurance Agencies 20 24 Law Firms List: Credit Unions List: Highest Paid Executives in State Government Technology Accounting 25 List: Wireless Telephone Retailers 29 List: Highest Paid Public Company Executives 25 Insurance/Investments 27 Oil & Gas Report List: General Contractors Tourism St. Tammany Parish Business Report List: Engineering Firms Book of Lists SEPTEMBER OCTOBER NOVEMBER DECEMBER 7 Banking/Financial Services Holiday Party Planning Dining & Catering Real Estate List: Savings & Loans 5 List: Largest Hotels 2 List: Louisiana & Gulf Coast Casinos List: Warehouse Space Gaming 7 Green Growth Corporate Gift Guide 14 Dining & Catering Advertising Section List: Seafood Suppliers 9 Banking/Financial Services 12 Real Estate List: Banks List: Commercial Property Managers 14 Health Care 21 Education 16 Oil & Gas Report List: Employment Agencies List: Private Secondary Schools List: Oil & Gas Production Companies Health Care Retail List: Women Owned Businesses 23 Technology 21 28 Ports & Transportation 19 List: Printers List: Shopping Centers List: Deep-Draft Ports Jefferson Parish Business Report Law Firms 28 Year In Review 30 List: Law Firms List: New Orleans-area Tourist Attractions Health Care Benefits September 28 Insurance/Investments Corporate Gift Guide Advertising Section 26 List: Title Companies Real Estate Trends November 30

Liz Baldini Ginger Graf Coco Evans Judd Cassie Foreman Jeanne Farrell 293-9213 293-9268 293-9288 293-9222 293-9731 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

24 Culinary Connoisseurs Best John besh & Octavio Mantilla Owners August, La Provence, Lüke, and Besh Steakhouse. Interview with Octavio Mantilla PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Besh Restaurant Group co- owners Octavio Mantilla, Years at establishment: left, and John Besh enjoy an afternoon cocktail. The Steakhouse came online in 2003, John Besh and I acquired August in 2005, we bought La Provence at the end of 2006 and Lüke came online in May 2007. Domenica, our Italian restaurant in the Roosevelt Hotel, is opening in June.

Community involvement: Everywhere you turn, there’s something going on benefiting the city — most of these things are social charity events. And if you go to them, you realize we’re at almost every single one of them, whether it’s for a donation of dinner at a silent auction to actual- ly serving food at the events. Besides that, John is always doing something outside the city to promote New Orleans.He’s always been an ambassador of the city,so he’s doing tons of public rela- tions and charity events.

Major milestones: We went into business three months before Katrina … and I think the biggest accomplishment was that we stuck to building the restaurant and kept fighting for it and the city. We believe in the city, we believe in our staff and our team members and we believe in ourselves — and it’s paid off, and we’ve been able to grow exponentially.

Favorite dish: Gnocchi is something we’re known for at August, duck is some- Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: always going back to what I love — taking care of people and thing we’re known for at August and the egg custard with This is what I’ve done all my life. I started in the industry being hospitable. There are plenty of fields out there, and I Louisiana caviar is awesome. At Lüke, the hamburgers and fries when I was in high school bussing and washing tables. Even spend my life in a field where people come to enjoy them- are incredible, and the Friday special is a redfish court-boullion. though I went to Tulane for my bachelor’s degree and the selves. It’s kind of hard to beat.• La Provence has the beet salad, and the Steakhouse has amazing University of New Orleans for my master’s, I found myself — Leah Bartos barbecue shrimp.

Best Dickie brennan Owners Palace Café, Dickie Brennan's Steakhouse, Bourbon House Seafood and Oyster Bar PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Years at establishment: 18. Palace Cafe opened in 1991, Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse opened in 1998 and Bourbon House Seafood and Oyster Bar opened in 2002.

Community involvement: Restaurants have a huge opportunity to give back to communi- ties, and we are very involved with fundraisers, donated gift cer- tificates, charity dinners, contributions — we just try to do as much as we can. We’re most proud of our relationship with the Kingsley House. I encourage all our employees to volunteer their time there before or after work and help the kids in that program. Last year, we had a luncheon there for Halloween and invited legislators so they could see what a historical significance and meaningful program the Kingsley House is to our city.

Major milestones: We put a lot of effort into being an employer of choice and tak- ing care of our employees. Another milestone I am most proud of, along with my partners Steve Pettus and Lauren Brower, is being in that first wave of restaurants that reopened after Hurricane Katrina. We jumped right back in to get this city going again. It was a milestone individually and for our com- pany. Four years later, we are surviving and doing well, and despite the national economy troubles, we have had some solid first quarters of business at all our restaurants. now, it’s crawfish time and our chefs are being real creative I loved food, I loved cooking and I was able to get in the with crawfish from crawfish bisque to sauteed crawfish dishes. kitchen with some legendary and dynamic chefs like Paul Favorite dish: Prudhomme. I just caught the restaurant bug and never I’m a real seasonal guy, so anything that’s in season. If Creole Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: strayed from the business. I enjoy making people happy,and I tomatoes are ripe off the vine, I want my Creole tomato. If soft I was always close to my father, and growing up I lived a cou- enjoy the restaurant environment. It works for me.• shell crabs are in season, I’m ready for my soft shell crab. Right ple of blocks from the family business at Commander’s Palace. — Tommy Santora

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 25 Best ralph brennan Owners Ralph Brennan Restaurant Group PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Name of establishments: I own Bacco, Red Fish Grill and Ralph’s on the Park and am a partner in Mr.B’s and Commander’s Palace.Elsewhere,I own Jazz Kitchen in the Downtown Disney district of Disneyland Resort in Anaheim, Calif., and am a partner in Brennan’s of Houston.

Years with establishments: I’ve owned Bacco since 1991, the Red Fish Grill since 1997, Jazz Kitchen since 2001 and Ralph’s on the Park since 2003.

Community involvement: I’m active as a food service industry advocate and a friend of busi- ness and tourism.I’ve held leadership roles with the New Orleans and National Restaurant associations, the Ernest N. Morial Convention Center, the New Orleans Aviation Board, the New Orleans Business Council, the New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau and Children’s Hospital.

Major milestones: Professionally, opening four successful restaurants and building a team of management and staff to operate these restaurants. Many of these people have stayed with our company to take on leadership roles, and I’ve enjoyed watching their growth and development. I’m also proud to have been chairman and presi- dent of the National Restaurant Association from 1995-96. A personal milestone is my immediate family — three great chil- dren and a marriage of 26 years.

Favorite dish: Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: industry of people and I enjoy people. I enjoy making cus- A cheeseburger, fries and a chocolate shake. Of course, I can’t I enjoy building a team and watching each team member grow tomers happy.• have many of these at my age. personally and professionally. The culinary industry is an — Diana Chandler

Best Emeril Lagasse Owners Emeril’s Restaurant, NOLA Restaurant, Emeril’s Delmonico PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Years at establishment: At Emeril’s since 1990, at NOLA since 1992 and at Emeril’s Delmonico since 1997.

Community involvement: The Emeril Lagasse Foundation was created in 2002 to support and encourage programs creating developmental and education- al opportunities for children. The foundation has contributed more than $2.5 million to Gulf Coast organizations including the New Orleans Center for Creative Arts, Café Reconcile, St. Michael’s Special School, Parkway Partners, Covenant Café and the Covenant House. The foundation, in a partnership with NOCCA, established the city’s first comprehensive four-year professional training program in culinary arts for high school stu- dents, and the foundation has also started the Emeril Lagasse Foundation Culinary Learning Center at Café Reconcile in New Orleans. What’s important to me is the children.

Major milestones: In 1990, Emeril’s had just opened and became a five-bean restau- rant according to The Times-Picayune. That was big for us because there weren’t really any four- or five-star restaurants emerg- ing in New Orleans during that time. I was also very honored to be named the Best Southeast Regional Chef by the James Beard Foundation and Chef of the Year by GQ Magazine. I have a lot to be thankful for, and I don’t take anything for granted. I still wake up every day and work as hard as the first day I came into the business. It’s good to support the local community and local farmers as from working with the Brennan family — Ella and Dick. They much as you can. My favorite dish right now would be to perfect- were very passionate about what they did and passed it on. They Favorite dish: ly cook the freshest fish I could find available. treated me like family, and they taught me not just about being a I have always been very connected to the soil and the local great chef in the industry but about being a well-rounded restaura- farmer’s market and whatever is in season. We are very blessed for Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: teur so I could have a chance to be successful in this business.• incredible soil and reserves in Louisiana and the Gulf of Mexico. Besides my education and travel, a lot of my early inspiration came — Tommy Santora

26 Culinary Connoisseurs Best Duke Locicero Owners Café Giovanni PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Years at establishment: I started Cafe Giovanni in 1991. I had been in the restaurant business since I was a kid and wanted to be my own boss. I had my own ideas on how a place like this should operate because I knew what it was like to run things from both the front and back of a restaurant.

Community involvement: We started the Chef Duke Foundation for Kids about 17 years ago. We were doing different things like wine dinners to raise money for kids. Then I decided to start my own foundation for kids in need. With the money from the fundraiser, we fill up a U- Haul truck with toys and bring them to children at Children’s Hospital. Last year we had enough for about 220 kids.

Major milestones: Where we are used to be a terrible block. People didn’t walk down this part of the street — they ran. So I decided to launch the Decatur Street Association, and we really cleaned the place up. We had 45 members and have since merged it into the French Quarter Business Association. It is a different atmos- phere today.They call this the Gateway to the French Quarter.

Favorite dish: I don’t have one in particular. Instead, I would offer a tasting Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: dishwasher to busboy to helping with the food, and I liked menu with many small dishes, all offering the different styles When I was 12 years old, I went to work as a dishwasher for everything about the business and feel the same way today.• of Italian cooking we have here. the House of Lee under Harry and Davis Lee. I went from — Garry Boulard

Best Scott boswell Executive Stella and Stanley Chefs PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

Professional training and education: I went to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park,New York. I graduated in 1995 and spent a year training in the south of France.

Years at establishment: April 5 was our eighth anniversary at Stella, and Stanley, which opened temporarily about two weeks after Katrina, then closed, has been open for three months.

Previous experience: I worked with the Windsor Court before learning at the Culinary Institute of America, Salon de Provence in France and Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, Italy.I also worked at a resort in Montana and Restaurant Massa in Tokyo.

Community involvement: I am on the French Quarter Business Association board and the board of directors on the committee of Strategic Planning and Development.

Noted for: Most people tell me how incredibly imaginative it is as far as the creations, the flavor and the surprises. It’s just about the things you wouldn’t expect. People know me for being exciting. been a home run ever since. It’s Szechwan-seared breast, lacquered little. As I grew up, I started cooking a lot but I figured I loved it Favorite ingredient: leg and thigh, moo shoo pancake stir-fry,duck miso broth, foie gras so much, I really didn’t want to do it for a job. I went to school to I don’t know. I love so many things. I really love eggs, and one of won tons and currant cassis reduction. be a dentist, worked in a bank for seven years, then I owned a pet my favorite combinations of all times is lobster, eggs and truffles. store. All the while people loved my cooking, and I realized it was Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: what I wanted to do. I took a temporary job in a restaurant, and I Favorite dish: I have loved to cook since my earliest childhood. My grandmoth- just fell in love with it.• Duck five ways. I remember the day I created it after Katrina. It has er used to chase me out of the kitchen with a broom when I was — Craig Guillot

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 27 Best justin devillier Executive La Petite Grocery Chefs PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Professional training and education: I started cooking in 1999. I have no formal training, but rather a self-styled apprenticeship. I attribute a lot of what I know to the chefs I’ve worked with in the past, particularly Chef Anne Kearny-Sands.

Years at establishment: Five and a half, collectively.

Previous experience: I grew up in California and worked in a few hotel restaurants before moving to New Orleans in the summer of 2002. Since then, I’ve worked at Ralph Brennan’s, Peristyle and Stella.

Community involvement: The past two years, I participated in St. Baldricks, where people pledge money for you to shave your head.The proceeds are used for pediatric cancer research. It was definitely an easy and rewarding way to help out.

Noted for: The gnocchi. I can’t take it off of the menu because it’s so popular. It’s made with smoked bacon,Parmesan,crème fraiche and chives. Favorite dish: Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: Favorite ingredient: I don’t have a favorite dish to prepare because I’m always trying I just like being around food. Being able to do something I love I like onions because they lend flavor to any dish. It’s a flavor to move forward, but I enjoy eating homemade tacos — made by is inspiring as well as being able to work with people who enjoy that really carries. me and my wife. Vietnamese food is another favorite. food as much as I do.• — Nayita Wilson

Best Tenney flynn Executive G.W. Fins Chefs PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Professional training and education: Community involvement: I grew up in the restaurant business at my We usually pick six major charities and do dad’s restaurant. I got into the bar and night- about 12 charities — total. March of Dimes is club business for eight years. I ran a rock ‘n’ a big one, SPCA is a pretty big one, Zoo-to- roll club. It’s fun but it takes a toll. I knew I Do — and that’s not counting the churches didn’t want to be in the bar business any- and schools. more. I studied at the Culinary Institute of America in New York, where I graduated Noted for: from in 1985, and I was a very old-line cook We support the local seafood industry. That’s at that point. the basis of our menu. On any given day, there are seven or eight varieties of any local seafood Years at establishment: on the menu. A good 60 percent to 70 percent Eight, since G.W.Fins opened in March 2001. of the menu is local products.

Previous experience: Favorite ingredient: I had an externship with the Buckhead Life Pork Group in Atlanta. They were pretty much the fine dining establishment in Atlanta. I spent Favorite dish: two years as a sous chef at one of their seafood That changes on a daily basis. My favorite restaurants. They opened their steakhouse, right now is mussels with Chinese sausage Chops, and I got the executive chef job and and Thai curry broth. spent three years there. Ruth’s Chris hired me to be their corporate chef in 1992. I had never Inspiration to work in the culinary even been to New Orleans, even though it was industry: only 500 miles away. During my time there, Growing up in restaurants. Literally, my earli- from 1992 to 1999, Ruth’s Chris doubled in est memories are visiting my dad’s restau- size from roughly 35 to 70 restaurants. rants. I came by it naturally.• — Fritz Esker

28 Culinary Connoisseurs Best brian landry Executive Galatoire’s Chefs PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Professional training and education: Favorite ingredient: I graduated from Jesuit High School and Anything fresh — that is the most important received a biology and philosophy degree in thing, whether it’s seafood or vegetables. I like 1998 from the University of Alabama. Three cooking things I catch, whether that’s speck- years later I graduated from Johnson and led trout, redfish or black drum. Wales University in Charleston, S.C., with a culinary degree. Favorite dish: I added a duck and boursin cheese crepe. We Years at establishment: were just playing around in the kitchen one I’ve been here since Katrina. Before that I day, had some port-soaked raisins, put every- worked at the Charleston Grill in Charleston, thing together and it came out well. We ran it as well as Rene Bistrot and Ralph’s at the Park at our restaurant in Baton Rouge as our testing here in New Orleans. ground, then added it to the menu here.

Community involvement: Inspiration to work in the culinary I still do a lot with Jesuit’s career days and industry: mentoring programs, but there are so many I’ve been working in restaurants since I was events and charities through the Galatoire 14. I started at Tony Angello’s Restaurant as a family that I either do cooking demonstra- busboy,but when I grew up and it was time to tions for or donate food to. We’ve done decide what I wanted to be, I applied to med- events here for Children’s Hospital, and I’ve ical school. When I left the interview, some- cooked for our March of Dimes fundraiser thing told me that was not what I wanted to do, for the past three years. so I went home and told my parents I was going to go to culinary school. I had been Noted for: working in restaurants for six years and never Probably French Creole cuisine complained about going to work, so it made perfect sense to make this my career.• — Garry Boulard

Best Gus Martin Executive Muriel’s Jackson Square Chefs PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

Professional training and education: I learned while working with the Brennan family for 26 years, serving under Dick and Ella Brennan and chefs Jamie Shannon, Gerard Maras and Jimmy Smith.

Years at establishment: One

Previous experience: I worked as sous chef at Mr. B’s for 10 years and at Commander’s Palace for one year before serving six years in the U.S. Army.After serving in the Army,I served as sous chef at Commander’s Palace again for four years and as an executive chef and corporate chef at Palace Café, the Bourbon House and Dickie Brennan’s Steak House.I’ve also worked at Red Fish Grill and Ralph’s on the Park.

Community involvement: I’ve served as a judge at United Way’s Gumbo Fest and con- ducted 45-minute cooking demonstrations at Jazz Fest 13 of the past 15 years. After Hurricane Katrina, I cooked at John’s Grill in San Francisco during a fundraiser to benefit restaurants dam- aged by the storm.

Noted for: Tweaking traditional dishes such as turtle soup, gumbo and Favorite dish: mother when I was 2 years old, standing on a crate. It was 2 sauces. I’m also a good teacher, developing young cooks and giv- Muriel’s oven-roasted redfish wrapped around crab stuffing tablespoons of butter, two eggs, scrambled with salt and pepper ing them the benefits I had growing up learning the craft. with crab butter. and stirred with a fork. My mother, Viva Pesantes, was in the restaurant business for 50 years and brought me into it with my Favorite ingredient: Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: Aunt Dot. I just have a love and passion for food and have Truffles. I got spoiled with truffles when I was young. They’re My grandmother taught me to cook, and my mother taught me learned from great New Orleans chefs over the years.• very expensive, but they’re delicious. the restaurant business. I cooked my first eggs with my grand- — Diana Chandler

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 29 Best Jacques saleun Executive Chateau du Lac Chefs PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Professional training and education: I started my culinary training at age 15 in my native city of Brittany,France, before studying in Bordeaux, France. We have 95 to 98 culinary institutions in France. That’s why France has so many good chefs.

Years at establishment: In 2005, I moved from New York to the New Orleans metropoli- tan area, where I opened Chateau du Lac in Kenner. In January 2008,we moved the restaurant to a larger location in Old Metairie.

Previous experience: I’ve worked in four-star Parisian kitchens throughout my career.In 1999, I moved from Paris to New York with Sodexho, a French- based company that opened a cruise-dining experience on the Hudson River.

Community involvement: We have a lot of involvement with Audubon Charter School,such as donating money,food or gift certificates. We never say no.

Noted for: We have a specialty of escargot.

Favorite ingredient: I don’t have a favorite, but if I had to pick, it’s cream and butter. If you take out of the kitchen cream and butter,I can’t cook.I also like to use olive oil, fresh tomatoes, and seasonal vegetables and fruits. Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: My mother and aunt. They were great cooks. Also, the region Favorite dish: where I was living (Brittany), they would bring in great fish, the Probably blanquette de veau and coq au vin. It’s basic food a best oysters and beautiful crabs.• French mother will cook after Mass. — Amy Ferrara Smith

Best david slater Executive Emeril’s Restaurant Chefs PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Professional training and education: Florida Culinary Institute in West Palm Beach, Fla.

Years at establishment: Four years at Emeril’s Restaurant in New Orleans and eight years at Emeril’s family of restaurants beginning with Emeril’s Orlando

Previous experience: The Windsor Court Hotel, Restaurant Cuvee, Emeril’s Orlando and Emeril’s Atlanta. In January 2008, I assumed full command of the kitchen at Emeril’s Restaurant in New Orleans.

Community involvement: I value any work helping children through the foundation; that’s my soft spot. My family has always been interested in giving back to children, and that has stuck with me through- out my career. In 2002, Emeril Lagasse established the Emeril Lagasse Foundation to support and encourage programs creating devel- opmental and educational opportunities for children.The foun- dation has contributed more than $2.5 million to Gulf Coast organizations including the New Orleans Center for Creative Arts, Café Reconcile, St. Michael’s Special School, Parkway Partners, Covenant Café and the Covenant House. Favorite ingredient: Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: Seafood, especially shellfish My grandparents and parents were incredible cooks, and I Noted for: always grew up around food. Also growing up in Toronto, such I think it’s the ability to manage Emeril’s kitchen in a world- Favorite dish: a multicultural city, provided me with a lot of different cultures class restaurant and to be able to maintain the high standards Pasta combined with any of the local Louisiana seafood. and food varieties I was exposed to and influenced my personal our customers have come to expect with the dishes we serve. style of cooking I have today.• — Tommy Santora

30 Culinary Connoisseurs Best Emanuel jones SousChefs Recently retired from The Rib Room PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Professional training and education: Noted for: I didn’t go to any culinary schools. I just Red beans, fried chicken and gumbo learned by doing it. Favorite ingredient: Years at establishment: Chicken base, fish base or beef base because About 44 years it just brings out the flavor.

Previous experience: Favorite dish: None. I was cooking for a barroom on Fridays That would be gumbo. Chicken, sausage and and Saturdays back in ’64, and the executive seafood. The secret is all in the roux, and you steward here got me in at the Royal Orleans. have to have a stock. They weren’t hiring colored cooks, so I went in the stewarding department with him for Inspiration to work in the culinary about six months. I was tight with the cooks in industry: there. There was a saucier chef named Harold I used to stay with my grandmother when I Sage. One evening two cooks called in sick, was little. I used to help her cook, and when I and I just went back there and helped him and went back home my gumbo was a big thing. asked him how he wanted the steaks cooked. All the family and friends came over and said The next day, I came back and they had me. I was going to be a great chef someday. I just Then I went from the breakfast cook to the stayed on board.• breakfast chef to the saucier chef to the ban- — Craig Guillot quet chef to the floor chef to the sous chef.

Best Brandon Muetzel SousChefs Palace Café PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Professional training and education: Favorite ingredient: No university degree or culinary degree, but Eggs, for the simple fact they’re versatile. I attended the University of Iowa between You can use them for breakfast, lunch, din- 1995 and 2000 as an art major and Tulane ner, appetizers, desserts or garnishes. There University from 2006 to 2007 as a Russian isn’t much you can’t do with eggs. language major. Favorite dish: Years at establishment: Palace Café’s Pepper Duck dish. It’s a pep- Three per-crusted duck breast with seared Hudson Valley foie gras and set on parsnip mashed Previous experience: potatoes with a citrus-confit salad and sauce Bourbon House Seafood and Oyster Bar from au poivre. 2002 to 2005 and Restaurant August in 2005. Inspiration to work in the culinary Community involvement: industry: I’m involved with the Young Leadership It dates back to my college days in Iowa. I Council through Wednesdays at the Square, was a chef at a restaurant, and I was looking where I cook every couple of weeks,and Where forward to going to work more than I was Ya’ Rack, where I help install bike racks that going to classes. So I put all my energy into businesses buy for their bike-riding employees. cooking and becoming a better chef. In I also belong to 504ward and volunteer at the 2002, I made a commitment to cook profes- local farmer’s market twice a week,helping ven- sionally in a bigger city, so I decided to try dors with whatever they may need. New Orleans. I’ve had a pretty amazing edu- cation since I have been here. Every day is a Noted for: different challenge, and that makes my work People skills. I think I have a good knack for exciting.• managing people, managing the kitchen and — Tommy Santora teaching other cooks.

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 31 Best alfred singleton SousChefs Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Professional training and education: I grew up in a family restaurant in the Lower 9th Ward, but I learned all of my cooking skills on the job. My training really came after high school when I applied for a part-time job as a food runner. Once I saw what was going on in the kitchen, I really developed the desire to cook.

Years at establishment: I’ve been with Dickie Brennan’s for about three years. The theme here is “great steaks with a New Orleans touch.”So com- ing from this area, I believe I bring a great deal of New Orleans flavor along with my passion and ambition.

Previous experience: Line cook at Cafe Sbisa,executive sous chef at The Red Room and executive chef at Cafe Sbisa.

Community involvement: I recently worked with students at St. Ville Academy.I was able to talk to the kids about their interests and the importance of staying in school. I was also one of the guest chefs for the inau- gural Treme Festival. I’ve had the opportunity to represent the city of New Orleans as an ambassador for our regional cuisine in Medellin, Colombia, and I often present cooking demonstra- tions at the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival. crabmeat and fresh tomatoes. Garlic, oysters and mushrooms are Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: Noted for: great, too, because they add a level of depth to any dish. I have a great deal of ambition and passion for what I do. I love I make a really good gumbo. If you want a great gumbo, then food and working with different products every day,and I enjoy come see me. Favorite dish: giving the people of New Orleans and from all over the world My favorite dish is blackened redfish. If you’re into spicy dish- what they really want, and that’s great food.• Favorite ingredient: es like I am, then you’ll really appreciate a blackened dish. To — Nayita Wilson I like to deal with a lot of Louisiana products such as seafood, me, blackened products embody New Orleans.

Best heather young SousChefs Galatoire’s Bistro PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Professional training and education: I didn’t go to culinary school. I found that just working in Baton Rouge in certain places has given me everything I’ve needed to know.

Years at establishment: Three

Previous experience: When I first started, I worked at the French Market Bistro. You could be as creative as you wanted,and they encouraged that kind of creativity.I worked at a private dining club, the Camelot Club, which had lots of banquets and catering.Then I worked at a high- volume chain like Ruth’s Chris, and that wasn’t really the venue I liked. I worked at this other little place called Chicago’s as a line cook and worked my way up to executive chef.

Community involvement: We recently did a benefit for the battered women’s clinic in Baton Rouge and a wine dinner for Habitat for Humanity. We do stuff for the Baton Rouge Symphony Orchestra, the Cancer Society and Woman’s Hospital, who we’re trying to team up with to make a heart-healthy menu.

Noted for: As silly as it sounds, they call me the soup queen. Every day we have a soup du jour, and I take all the leftovers and the scraps we a vinegar shot or a little bit of a spice, it’s perfect for that, and peo- Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: don’t use — like potato and eggplant — and use them to the busi- ple can’t really tell if it’s in there unless they know it’s me cooking. I was 16 when I first started working in restaurants, and my first ness’ full capacity. job was busser/waiter. It’s getting up every day and not dread- Favorite dish: ing to go to work, doing the day-to-day routine with the same Favorite ingredient: Any day of the week, I could eat a seared rare tuna with a craw- guys who respect you and you respect them.• Sriracha (chili paste). I put it in everything. If you need a little bit of fish sauce — I could die eating that. — Leah Bartos

32 Culinary Connoisseurs Best Joe Briand Sommeliers Link Restaurant Group PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Professional training and education: In addition to director of operations for the Link Restaurant Group — which includes Herbsaint, Couchon, Butcher and Calcasieu — I’m also the wine buyer. A few years back, I did the introductory course for the Guild of Sommeliers. I’ve done the second-level training with the Wine and Spirit Education Trust,but I get more out of my training in that I taste more than 100 different wines a week. I’m less interested in initials behind my name and more inter- ested in spending time and money visiting the wine country.

Years at establishment: Chef Donald Link established Link Restaurant Group in January to support his four restaurants and facilities. I have been director of operations since the business formed and have worked at Herbsaint since 2001.

Previous experience: I waited tables while I was at Christian Brothers University in Memphis, (Tenn.),and I worked at Vaquero’s on Prytania Street.

Community involvement: I’m on the board for the Susan G.Komen for the Cure Foundation. Every year, we have a Summer Cure Chefs Wine Dinner. I coordi- nate to get the chefs to cook, and I handle the wine. Occasionally we’ll get someone who is a real collector. They to work with (chefs) Donald Link, Susan Spicer and all the Favorite wine: call ahead and let you know they are bringing a bottle. people at Herbsaint. After Katrina, it was an inspiration to be Wine from the Burgundy region in France. one of the first restaurants to open and to see people have their Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: first fancy dinner out where they saw their friends for the first Most expensive bottle opened: Before I worked at Herbsaint, I had never seen a restaurant so time since the storm.• I’ve pulled corks for customers for a few thousand dollars. … focused on putting out good food. It’s also been an inspiration — Amy Ferrara Smith

Best Simone fleming PastryChefs Mélange at the Ritz-Carlton

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Professional training and education: Favorite ingredient: I have culinary training from Delgado The sweet potato because it is extremely versa- Community College and Notter School of tile and savory. It has a fantastic texture that Pastry Arts in Orlando, Fla. lends itself to multiple uses. I’m a Louisiana girl, and I love my yams. Years at establishment: About eight years with the Ritz-Carlton. Favorite dessert: Panna cotta. It’s an Italian cooked cream that Previous experience: is smooth and delicious. It is like a cloud and I was the assistant pastry chef at Palace Café never lets you down. It is impossible to mess and worked in various positions at the up one of those few flawless creations that no Windham, Radisson and at the Ritz-Carlton in matter how finicky the eater, they will never Naples Beach, Fla. turn away from it.

Community involvement: Inspiration to work in the culinary I do classes at Phoebe Hearst Elementary industry: School with a program called “Table Etiquette When I was growing up, we did not have a for First-Graders.” The Ritz-Carlton provides whole lot of money and my family wasn’t a lunch and I bring it to the class, and we go particularly adventurous with food. I always over how to act at a table and properly eat your wanted to try new things I saw on TV.When food. I also go there to do “Green Eggs and I got older, my mother would bring me into Ham” day and cook it in front of them while the kitchen, and she would just bake blind they read the story. We also do that with gin- without recipes. She was probably my great- gerbread for Christmas. I’ve also been working est inspiration.• with the Ben Sarrat Jr. Foundation to raise — Craig Guillot money for a local child who has been diag- nosed with inoperable brain cancer.

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 33 Best tariq hanna PastryChefs Sucré

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Professional training and education: ing program. I taught the advanced pastry and I attended the Culinary Studies Institute in advanced plated dessert classes. Farmington Hills, Mich., outside of Detroit. I graduated in 1991 with an associate’s degree Favorite ingredient: of occupational studies in culinary arts and Passion and rock ’n’ roll focused mainly in savory cuisine. I made the full-time switch to pastry about 15 years ago Favorite dessert: and for the most part I am self-taught,although A really good vanilla éclair. My favorite guilty I attend any and every class or demo I can pleasure, though — Little Debbie Swiss Rolls around the country. right out of the fridge.

Years at establishment: Inspiration to work in the culinary Two industry: Culinary Salon (food competition) — I was Previous experience: blown away by the artistic possibilities one Before moving to New Orleans, I spent seven could achieve with food. That’s when I knew years as the executive pastry chef and executive this was a career for me. Prior to that, with- sous chef at MotorCity Casino in Detroit. out getting too cliché, my mother was the While there,I also returned to my alma mater as greatest cook I ever knew.• a culinary instructor in the pastry art and bak- — John Breerwood

Best Andre mckendall PastryChefs Commander’s Palace

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Years at establishment: Two years and four months. It’s one of the best restaurants in New Orleans.

Previous experience: Six months at The Melting Pot and six months at Whole Foods. It got me used to knife skills, and it let me know what I was getting into, the business side of it.

Favorite ingredient: Truffle oil, chocolate and thyme

Favorite dessert: Watermelon sorbet

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: I used to cook with my mom when I was lit- tle, baking cakes. As I got older, I realized it was something I was good at, so I thought I’d give it a try and it’s worked out so far.• — Fritz Esker

34 Culinary Connoisseurs Best laurent moecklin PastryChefs Swiss Confectionery

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Professional training and education: Not related to the industry,I have a bachelor’s degree from Louisiana State University. As far as culinary education, I have a professional degree from the American Institute of Baking, but I mostly learned from the hands-on training with my father and grandfather.

Years at establishment: I started working summers during high school back in 1970 but went full-time in 1976.

Previous experience: Other than working those summers, I worked in a bakery in Baton Rouge when I was in college. I also was the production manager at McKenzie’s Bakery.

Community involvement: We donate sweets to church fairs, school fairs and other organiza- tions such as Zoo-to-Do.We are involved in almost all high school fundraisers and fairs.

Favorite ingredient: Strawberry.I just like the flavor.

Favorite dessert: Of the ones I make, I’d say the brownies. My overall favorite, though, is crème brulee, but that’s more of a restaurant dessert. We’re a bakery. ized I didn’t want to be a math teacher after I graduated. I enjoy Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: the baking part but not really the running the business part.• Other than working alongside my father and grandfather, I real- — John Breerwood

Best Marguerite riehm PastryChefs Marguerite’s Cakes

PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

Professional training and education: I never had any formal training. Baking is something that’s been inside of me. I started baking around the house when I was 11 years old.

Years at establishment: 30 years

Previous experience: I worked in the insurance industry after graduating from high school until I had my first child in 1975. I started baking in 1978, doing cakes for friends and sold cakes out of my home until 1990. I opened my first storefront in 1991.

Community involvement: I always donate pastries to guesthouses, senior citizens homes, fairs and churches. For the past six years,I’ve donated to K-Bar- B’s annual gala, which helps raise money for unwed mothers.

Favorite ingredient: I love almond extract. It adds a special touch and, to me, is a unique flavor to New Orleans.

Favorite dessert: My favorite would be the fresh fruitcake, which is a five-layer cake with fresh fruit on top.My customers love the doberge cake, petit fours and turtles.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: My older sister.• — Nayita Wilson

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 35 Best Michael Juan Maitre D’s Le Parvenu

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Years at establishment: Most notable guests: Seven While tending bar at the Hyatt Hotel, I once served President Ford, who was in town dur- Previous experience: ing his term. That’s when I learned everyone Before Le Parvenu, I spent two years at the should be given the presidential treatment. Court of Two Sisters as a maitre d’ and man- That is why if someone noteworthy comes ager and 10 years at Christian’s Restaurant as in, I feel it is best to treat them the same as maitre d’, where I learned to love the local any other guest. Of course, there are some diners. Before that, I worked at a host of exceptions — my mother, for one. other restaurants, including Broussard’s, Louis XVI and Arnaud’s, and establishments Worst experience: at the Hyatt and Sheraton hotels. This is very sad, but one of my favorite cus- tomers passed away in the restaurant. I con- Community involvement: soled his wife until the ambulance came. As a member of the Kenner Lions Club, I participate in various events, including serv- Inspiration to work in the culinary ing food during Oktoberfest and collecting industry: nonperishable food items for the Kenner Felix, a former maitre d’ at Broussard’s, Food Bank. I’m a volunteer with the Special taught me the difference between a maitre d’ Olympics and the National Football League and a manager.• Players Association. — Diana Chandler

Ella brennan Legend Commander’s Palace Family of Restaurants

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Years in industry: Major milestones: 59. Ella Brennan began working in the “When we started working at Commander’s industry in 1946 as a kitchen supervisor for Palace the day after Mardi Gras in 1974, it her brother, Owen Edward Brennan, who began one of the most rewarding years of my opened Owen Brennan’s French and Creole life. Everybody in our family went to work Restaurant in July 1946. Ella became manag- there and did everything they knew best to er in 1955 when Owen passed away. make it the best restaurant in New Orleans. The Brennans bought Commander’s That’s still our goal as a family today.” Palace in 1969 and began working in the restaurant in 1974. Ella retired from the day- Inspiration to work in the culinary to-day operations of the Commander’s Palace industry: Family of Restaurants after Hurricane Katrina. “When I was 21, my brother, Owen, and my father bought a restaurant, the Vieux Carre, Community involvement: and I went to eat there frequently and I didn’t “I spent a lot of time on boards throughout like it. I thought it wasn’t a very good restau- my years, but the most meaningful communi- rant and I kept complaining to them, so ty work I did was my time with the New Owen said, ‘If you think you can do better, Orleans Restaurant Association. We used to then you run the restaurant.’I told him I knew have board meetings on my porch and talk good food because my mother was a great about promoting tourism and visitors com- cook. So I got into the business for good. ing to the city. I was there really for the birth “I learned a lot from Owen, and he found of it all — New Orleans becoming a great a business we could all do together. My moth- restaurant attraction. er and father always taught us to respect and “It’s interesting to see how bad we need support each other. I always loved the family our tourism and convention business to aspect of the business. I find the business return now and help our restaurants. That very exciting, challenging and stimulating, can happen, but we need strong leadership everything you would want in your job.”• in the city to see it through.” — Tommy Santora

36 Culinary Connoisseurs lifetime sterling constant Achievement Antoine’s

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Years at establishment: It will be 42 in July. I started as a cook in the kitchen in 1967.

Community involvement: With our clientele, we know how they want things, and you know, they’re very particular people. Not that they’re getting any food different than anybody else, it’s just that the locals want you to be here for them. Anybody who comes through the door who needs any help, I’m here to assist them with whatever they need. Every person you serve is different. You just have to feel the guests out and see how they are. You can joke with some peo- ple, and some people you can’t. The elderly crowd, years ago, used to come here to dine, and they’d sit here for two to three hours. Now,the young crowd, the faster you serve them, the bet- ter they like it because they want to get out there on the streets. When people have a big party and want to get out at a cer- tain time, I always tell them as fast as y’all can eat, I’ll get you served. Things like that, you just have to go around and feel the guests out. A couple of movie stars I’ve waited on include Tommy Lee Jones, Buddy Ebsen, Jackie Gleason, Nicolas Cage. And they did the “JFK” movie down here with Kevin Costner (which was shot partially inside Antoine’s). I was an extra in the movie.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: If I didn’t work here, I don’t know what I would do with myself. I come in every day about 9:30 a.m. or 10 a.m. and this restaurant and tell you when the tables are out of place just check the dining rooms and do things like that. If I had to stay by looking at the dining room. I can just look at the legs of the home, I’d go crazy. I’m so used to it. table and tell you if it’s in the right place or not. After 42 years, Besides my waiter job, I take care of ordering extra tables and you come in and you look at it, and you know it ain’t right.• equipment and things the restaurant might need. I can walk into — Leah Bartos

lifetime sandy & bob defelice Achievement Pascal’s Manale PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Years at establishment: Bob and Sandy DeFelice have been in the business for about 21 years. “Actually, it’s in the family, so we’ve been involved a bit longer than that,” Bob DeFelice said. Pascal’s Manale has been a New Orleans establishment since 1913, when Frank Manale opened the restaurant. Around 1939, Pascal Radosta bought the restaurant from Frank Manale’s widow and renamed it Pascal’s Manale. Today, together with their sister Ginny and brother Mark, Bob and Sandy DeFelice continue the tradition at the family-operated restaurant.

Community involvement: For the past 19 years, Bob DeFelice has been a volunteer exhib- it diver at the Aquarium of the Americas. He has also been on the CrimeStoppers board of directors for about 12 years and the Better Business Bureau board of directors. Sandy DeFelice also has been a member of the St. Catherine of Siena Men’s Club and volunteered as the school’s girls’ baseball coach.

Major milestones: “We’re about to come on it — our 100-year anniversary,” Bob DeFelice said.“We’ve had 95 years of being in business. Also, we have three generations active in the business.” Virginia and Sandy, left, and Bob DeFelice Savare DeFelice, parents of Bob, Sandy, Ginny and Mark, still make appearances at the restaurant.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: work here, and I took that. Being in the hospitality business, and grew up in it. I started working here when I was at (De La “I guess it’s something that’s kind of in the family,” Bob in a way we’re giving something back.” Salle) high school in 1966.”• DeFelice said. “Since the mid-’70s, I’ve had an opportunity to Sandy DeFelice agreed. “Let’s just say I was born into it — Amy Ferrara Smith

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 37 lifetime shirley lee Achievement Royal China

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Years at establishment: We started in 1978 and opened at the same location where we are today. I am the owner and do everything here. I am here almost seven days a week. All together, we have five people who work here.

Community involvement: We have done some charity events. When the late Sheriff Harry Lee was alive, he would ask us to do different things, like something for the Children’s Hospital, and we would.

Major milestones: Having Harry Lee come in here so many times. He loved it here and always sat near the front. Anything he wanted, we would do for him. I came to know so many other political people who also have liked to come here. Bobby Jindal used to be a regular cus- tomer, although I think he is too busy since he has become gov- ernor to visit us again. But (Jefferson Parish President) Aaron Broussard, also, and so many others who are in politics — I like that they come here.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: I worked in a Chinese restaurant in New York and moved here in 1977. People told me to move away from New York if I want- ed to start a business. After we opened, I felt very happy we did it here instead of in New York, where people are not that friendly.I felt lucky because I found something to do that I like who comes in here. My customers call this “Shirley’s Place,” or they say “Let’s go very much. The customers became my friends. Southern people, our customers, are so friendly. They kiss over and see Shirley.” I sometimes wonder if people don’t know I am here from the first person who comes in to the last per- and hug and ask you how you are doing. If you did that in New the name of the restaurant.• son closing the door, and I know just about every single person York, they would look at you like you are crazy or something. — Garry Boulard

lifetime jorge pesantes Achievement The Rib Room PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

The Rib Room server Jorge Pesantes chats with regular Years at establishment: customers Knox Tumlyn, I started working at the Riviera as a lifeguard on March 25, 1962. left, and Pat Gootee. Then, when they closed it down for the season, I went to work in the Esplanade Dining Room as a captain. I started working at The Rib Room around 1964 as a captain, and then a few months later I was promoted to assistant maitre d’. In all, I have worked with the company for 47 years. I enjoy the atmosphere, serving the guests, and I still have fond memories of the past supervisors who were wonderful with us.

Community involvement: I do not physically do any community work, but I do give money to the United Way and church. I also sponsor a child through Children’s International, which helps poor children in third world countries through donations.

Major milestones: The major milestone in my career is that I have been able to pro- vide excellent service to all the actors and political figures I have met. One day I served George Hamilton and his girlfriend, who was President Lyndon B. Johnson’s daughter — Linda Bird Johnson. When they filmed the movie “Number One,” I got to meet Charlton Heston. Every moment I have spent in The Rib Room is always a proud one.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: At first, I did not really have an inspiration to work in the hospi- tality industry, but once I started working I fell in love with the food and the people I served.• — Fritz Esker

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