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Home , Ceann Iar, Eilean Mhuire, Stac an Armin, Stac Lee, Staffa

OUTLIERS - S T KILDA - HIORT VOLCANIC ISLANDS OF BIRDS t h

g female burial as well as steatite pots i r y

p have been found. Many of the pla - o C

n cenames are Norse, in particular w o

r those of the hills and stacks. C

Village Bay , on the east side, is well sheltered from the prevailing winds. The Street was built in 1860, and the ruined blackhouses behind about 1830, replacing earli - er houses which were considered too primitive. The hillsides are dotted with nearly 1,300 cleitan. These small drystone sheds were ST KILDA (ON Skjoldr, shield) Natural Heritage and the MoD in variously used to wind dry and is a fascinating and beautiful archi - partnership. St Kilda is a store birds, fish, dung, hay and The Village Street, pelago 66km (41mi) WNW of UNESCO World Heritage Site peats, preserve eggs and to protect early Christian stone crosses are with well over 250,000 breeding fer the Puffin areas to breed. Their North which was formed by in recognition of its natural and lambs. There are also a large num - the only physical evidence. One is pairs of all species. shrill calls make them easy to spot volcanic action about 60 million cultural heritage as well as the ber of walls and enclosures. in the wall of house 16. in the old stonework. They are years ago. It is one of the ultimate marine environment. A warden, Wren The St Kildan Wren , a larger than those from the destinations for island lovers. The researchers and visitors are present Chapels Three chapel sites are Hills The steep hills offer exhila - subspecies, may be seen around Mainland and breed on Hirta, main island is Hirta (ON Hirtir , in summer. Missile Range radar recorded but nothing now rating walks which are rewarded the Village area, but seems to pre - Dun and Boreray. There is also a deer, G Hiort ), which was populat - staff may be present all year. remains. Christ’s Church was in by dramatic views, if the tops are ed from at least 1850BC until the graveyard, St ’s to the clear. Hirta tends to produce its 1930, when it was evacuated. Bronze Age burial cists have been west of the village, and St own weather. The main hills are found in Village Bay as well as an Brendan’s below Ruaival. A Oiseval (290m), Conachair Today the National Trust for Iron Age souterrain, suggesting Viking female burial was also dis - (426m), and Mullach Mor owns the group. It is that people were here at least 4,000 covered, but the artefacts which (361m). managed by NTS, Scottish years ago. Norse brooches from a were found have been lost. Two The jagged island of Dun protects Village Bay from Conachair (426m) with Dun in the background Village Bay from the south and west. It is home to huge numbers of Puffins in the Summer, and has The Street WWI gun emplacement a ruined dun on its south eastern tip. Soay is separated from Hirta by the narrow Sound of Soay with Soay Stac and Stac Biorach in between.

Stacks About 7km (5mi) to the northeast, Boreray , and rise steeply from the sea. They are part of the rim of the huge volcano that was here nearly 60 million years ago. Together these stacks host the world’s largest gannetry with over 60,000 pairs nesting. St Kilda is one of the world’s largest seabird colonies

188 189 OUTLIERS - S T KILDA - HIORT VOLCANIC ISLANDS OF BIRDS

Dun from the southwest Stac an Armin (191m), Boreray (384m) and Stac Lee (165m) St Kildan subspecies of the Field thousands of seabirds, and, above phins, as well as sea birds such as To catch the birds the men had to Mouse which only lives on Dun . all, the sheer scale of the place can Gannets , Storm and Leaches be very agile climbers. They were only be described as awe inspiring. Petrel and Manx Shearwaters. on the craigs from a young age and A boat trip around Hirta and the The long trip over the open developed particularly strong feet. stacks during the breeding season Atlantic offers the chance to see Underwater, St Kilda is a sub-aqua Before a young man could marry, is an unforgettable spectacle. The cetaceans such as Minke or Killer diver’s paradise, as the volcanic he had to show off his prowess by jagged cliffs, lush grassy slopes, Whales, and various species of dol - rocks erode into wonderful sub - balancing on one foot atop the merged shapes and caves. The Lover’s Stone . One leg was out - clarity of the water means that vis - stretched over the edge and the ibility is often exceptional, while suitor had then to bend over and divers may be accompanied by touch his toes with his fist. curious Seals or Puffins. Mortality There was a very high Survival The St Kildans survived infant mortality rate which was by using Nature’s bounty to the previously thought to have been full, harvesting thousands of caused by typhus. Recent research Gannets, Puffins and has shown that the high consump - every year. They also kept the tion of seabirds, including their liv - primitive and later, ers, resulted in a toxic overload of Blackfaces. Although there would heavy metals. This was made have been plenty of fish available, it worse by the fields and gardens did not feature much in the peo - being contaminated by discarded ple’s diet. Perhaps they preferred it carcases. The islanders were also St Kildan “Parliament” on the late 1800s after avian processing. prone to imported diseases such as Stac an Armin (191m) smallpox and measles. One of the many cleits Soay Sheep Natural arch in Glen Bay Ultimately, the St Kildans decided that life was no longer tenable and they asked to be evacuated in 1930. Today many people visit by yacht, motorboat or cruise ship. Few leave disappointed and most have a yearning to return one day to this unique and fascinating vol - canic archipelago.

190 191 OUTLIERS - F LANNAN ISLANDS THE WESTERN OUTPOSTS t h

g to house its equally impressive lens. secure a box in which the mooring i r y

p The shore station was at Breasclete ropes, landing ropes etc. were kept, and o C

n in the west of Lewis. But for the which was secured in a crevice in the w o

r events soon to unfold, it would be a rock about 110 ft (34 m) above sea C quite obscure light. level, and that an extra large sea had rushed up the face of the rock, had gone On 15 th December 1900 SS Archtor above them, and coming down with noticed that the light was not in immense force, had swept them com - operation. A few days later the ten - pletely away.” The FLANNAN ISLANDS der Hesperus made a routine visit (after the 8 th century St Flann ) are only to find all three keepers were The lighthouse was automated in situated about 33km (21mi) missing. They were assumed to 1971, and has now been converted The Flannans from Gallan Head in Lewis have been washed away by to electric power with a large bank WNW of Gallan Head on Lewis. arches eroded into fantastical extremely large waves piling up at of photocells ranged along the Also known as the Seven Hunters, shapes which can be observed from the West Landing. south side. The accommodation they are another bird paradise in a boat in settled weather. summer, with many breeding block is well appointed to cater for The official explanation was less visiting engineers and NLB staff. seabirds, including Puffin s, Geology The islands are volcanic fanciful than many of the theories Fulmars, Gannet s, Storm and and consist of Gabbro and Dolerite put forward. Robert Muirhead of On Eilean Mor (G, Big Island) Leaches Petrels. Minke, Killer and which have intruded the basal the NLB reported, “From evidence below the lighthouse, there is a Pilot Whales, as well as Risso’s and Lewisian Gneiss. These rocks have which I was able to procure I was sat - small stonebuilt chapel, dedicated to other Dolphins frequent this area. eroded into fantastic shapes, but are isfied that the men had been on duty St Flann, and on the western head - hard on the hands. The soils are fer - up till dinner time on Saturday the 15 land a series of bothies (Bothain The lighthouse was first lit in 1899. tile and there is a rich covering of December, that they had gone down to Chlann ‘ic Phaill, ( G McPhail’s It has an especially large lamproom grass, with a carpet of wildflowers The East Landing Bothies) attributed to the Clan and lichen in summer. MacPhail. There are remains of a possible domestic building on the Getting Ashore on Eilean Mor is top of Eilean Tighe (G House possible at either the East or West Island). Landings, though care must be taken on the slippery steps, many of The gannetry is on the south end of which have been washed away. All Roareim , and should not be closely of the other islands are easily acces - approached to void disturbance. sible in fine weather. Various boat Between Roareim and Eilean operators run trips to the Flannans, a’Ghobha (G Blacksmith’s Island) which are very subject to weather there are rock stacks and natural St Flann’s Chapel (8 th century) and the lighthouse (19 th century) and sea conditions. The lighthouse on a midsummer night

The West Landing where the keepers may have been lost The Lamphouse is spacious to accommodate the large lens Roareim has a fine stack and arch Eilean Mor from Eilean Tighe

192 193 OUTLIERS - M ONACH ISLANDS OR HEISKER THE WESTERN OUTPOSTS t h

g A small new light was installed in Many Waders, Terns, Eider i r y

p 1997 after the loss of the Braer in Ducks, Shelducks and Fulmars o C

n in 1993. In company breed on the islands,. There is a w o

r with similar installations on very large colony of Black C Haskier to the west of Guillemots which especially like and Gasker off North Harris, it the storm beaches. Barnacle Geese marks the Deep Water Route rec - also overwinter. Over 200 species ommended for large laden tankers. of flowering plants grow here, making early summer a wonderful In 2005 it was decided to fit a more time to visit as the machair powerful light here and in July becomes a sea of colour. 2008 the original tower was The (G The islands are also known as brought back into use Despite Access From seaward on a dull Manach , monks) are about 10km Heisker (ON Heisker, Bright being abandoned for 60 years the day the Monachs present a forbid - off the west of North Uist. They Skerry) due, no doubt, to their tower remains in good condition ding air, with sea breaking on the comprise a series of small sandy appearance on a sunny day. The and required very little repairs. many sandbanks, rocks and sker - islands and low skerries. Legend outermost is (ON, Selr-oy , ries. All of the area in the vicinity is has it that up to the 16 th century a Seal Skerry) or Heisker nam (G East Island) was a maze of hazards, but navigable sandbank connected the islands to Manach , where the monks tradi - also known as Heisker nan with care. The best anchorage is North Uist, until a huge storm tionally had to maintain a light. Cailleach due to the nunnery there under the lighthouse at Shillay, swept the sand away. The last The lighthouse was established in which may have been established where there is a jetty. Boat trips are inhabitants left in 1948, but until 1864, but was discontinued in in the 13 th century. At low tide run from North Uist occasionally. 1810 there were around 100 peo - 1942 and not relit after WWII. Ceann Ear , Shivinish and ple here. The lighthouse reflected in a rock pool are joined by sand bars.

Nature Today the islands are a National Nature Reserve. The undisturbed machair has a partic - ularly rich flora here. About 10,000 Grey Seals now come ashore here each autumn to have their pups and mate, making it one of the largest such colonies in the world. Their dung helps fertilise the machair. Shillay coastline on a rough day

Old lighthouse before cleaning up Shillay lighthouse on the Monachs from North Uist mother and pup Temporary 1997 lighthouse Black Guillemots Sound of Shillay with the lighthouse in the distance

194 195 OUTLIERS - R ONA THE NORTHERN OUTPOSTS t h g i r y p o C

n w o r C

Approaching Rona from the east. Toa Rona (108m) is the highest point and has a small lighthouse RONA (ON Hraun-oy, rough St Ronan The hermitage is one of earth and stone wall. which enclos - residents were wiped out. There are large numbers of breed - east, Sgeildige in the northwest, or island) is a small isolated island the oldest remote Christian sites in es an ancient graveyard. There are Infections borne by incomers and ing Puffins, Guillemots, Kittiwake in several places on the south coast. about 70km (44mi) NNE of the Scotland and is said to have been a number of cross-inscribed and rats from wrecked ships which ate and Fulmars, as well as both A visit is well worthwhile as, Butt of Lewis. The people of Ness founded by St Ronan in the 7 th or cross-shaped grave markers which the food were two. Perhaps the Leaches and Storm Petrels. In although small and remote, Rona knew it as Ronaidh ant’Haf (ON 8th century. The oratory may be the may date from the 7 th to 9 th and saddest is the story that some fish - autumn up to 8,000 Grey Seals has a character all of its own. Haff, ocean) which is an apt oldest part. It has shell sand mortar from the 12 th or 13 th centuries. The ermen landed and stole the only come ashore to calve. The lush description. The northern and and was once limewashed white best known one, said to be St bull. This meant no calves and no grass of summer is partly a conse - Wartime U-boats are said to have southwestern peninsulas are quite inside. One small window high in Ronan’s own, is in the Ness milk, an important part of the diet. quence of their dung. regularly stopped off at Rona to rough, with bare rock and storm the east gable provides some light. Heritage Centre, Lewis. steal sheep and take fresh air. U-90 beaches, but the rest of the island is Like the St Kildans the Rona peo - Landing is possible in several regularly stocked up with fresh covered with luxuriant grass and The roofless chapel has one door - Population A complex group of ple depended on seabirds for part places, at Geodha a’Stoth in the mutton during WWI in this way. wild flowers. way and is surrounded by an oval domestic buildings to the west of of their diet. They are said to have the chapel was occupied until the caught Gannets on Sula Sgeir as early 19 th century. There are sub- well as Puffin s and other auks. on rectangular living rooms, small oval Rona. Unlike the St Kildans they side chambers with corbelled roofs were also fishermen and are said to and porches as well as byres, a kiln have driven whales ashore on the and a barn. Extensive field walls rocks. They doubtless utilised the and feannagan , or lazybeds, sur - large Grey Seal population also. round the settlement. Thus, although isolated, they had access to a wide variety of resources. Up to five families lived here. Periodically people left the island Nature Reserve The island is a for Lewis, and resettlement also National Nature Reserve on came from there. There are several account of its importance as a records of catastrophe when the seabird and seal breeding area. Fianuis and Sgeildige from the southwest Cross slab in the Chapel The Oratory interior

Feannagan or lazybeds surround the settlement Sunset over Fianuis from Toa Rona One of the domestic buildings St Ronan’s Chapel interior with entrance to the Oratory

196 197 OUTLIERS - S ULA SGEIR THE NORTHERN OUTPOSTS s e

n There is a small lighthouse on the o J

d south end at Sron na Lice , the high - r a h c

i est point of the island (74m). It is R regularly damaged by the huge seas which break right over the rock during Atlantic storms.

Despite this there is a surprising amount of vegetation. The Thrift is especially luxuriant and colourful in June, which is probably the best month to visit. Scentless Approaching Sula Sgeir at dawn in midsummer Mayweed, Orache, Scurvy Grass Sula Sgeir from the southeast in winter weather. It is sheltered from the and Sea Spurrey are a few other east by the rocky islet of Thamna SULA SGEIR (ON Sula Sker, the breeding season the cacophony, Bothies There are a total of five salt tolerant plants which grow Sgeir (ON Hamna Sker , Harbour Gannet Skerry) is a small narrow smell and presence of the wheeling bothies on Sula Sgeir, which are here, along with several species of Skerry). Care should be taken to rock, about 17km west of Rona. In Gannets is most impressive. still used by the Men of Ness when lichens and even some grasses. summer it is home to large num - they come to harvest the gugas. avoid disturbing the birds during the breeding season. A visit to Sula bers of Gannets , Guillemots, Brenhilda Although seemingly These circular structures are Landing There is a good anchor - Sgeir is an experience not to be Razorbills, Shags Fulmars, Eider very inhospitable to humans, there undoubtedly ancient, but it seems age at Geodha a’Phuill Bhain , where missed if the chance arises. Ducks and Puffins. Both Storm is a ruined stone bothy called Tigh unlikely that they were ever occu - landing is not too difficult in settled and Leaches Petrels also nest here. Beannaichte (G Blessed House) on pied for long periods. Guillemots with Rona in the distance the east headland, Sgeir an Gugas Each August, the Men of Teampall. St Ronan ’s sister, Geology The hard Lewisian Ness come to harvest up to 2,000 Brenhilda, is alleged to have stayed Gneiss rock splits into long pieces, gugas , the plump young Gannet s here for some time, leaving him on which are excellent for building which have not quite fledged. The Rona, only to be found dead in a bothies and cairns. The rough birds are salted on the island, and bothy with a Shag’s nest in her boulders and sharp rocks make for are considered a delicacy by every - ribcage. tough walking, but their hardness one from Ness. Indeed they can has resisted erosion for perhaps grace tables all over the world. Her brother is said to have admired 3,000 million years. The sea has Despite the cull, the Gannet popu - her beauty while they were climb - burrowed right through the south - lation remains stable at about ing the hill on Rona. Apparently he ern part of the island in a series of 9,000 pairs. especially remarked on her shapely interconnected and spectacular legs as she ascended in front of him. caves. They may be explored by The Gannetry covers the whole As result she decamped to Sula inflatable during calm weather. southern end of the island. During Sgeir where she eventually died. Sron na Lice in the mist from the south View from inside a cave

One of several bothies Gannets and Guillemots Geodha a’Phuill Bhain from the south One of the many spectacular caves

198 199 OUTLIERS - S HIANT ISLANDS NAH-E ILEANAN SEUNTA - T HE ENCHANTED ISLES t h

g have been dedicated to St Sound of Shiant The Sound of i r y

p Columba and have been sited on Shiant or Sruth na Fear Gorm is o C

n the west side of Eilean Garbh , said to be inhabited by the Blue w o

r perhaps at Airihghean na h- Men of , who must be C Annaid, as the name Annaid treated with the greatest respect means Old Church. There is by mariners. Certainly the also evidence of a more recent strong tides, uneven seabed and church, dedicated to the Virgin, many hazards make the area near the present cottage. dangerous in rough conditions. The offshore rocks and stacks to Finds During excavations on the west of the Shiants are called the farmstead on Eilean an Tighe the Galtachean (which may Approaching the Shiants from Skye an interesting round stone with derive from ON Goltr , boar). n o

The (G The previously inhabited and s l

a cross surrounded by a circle Their columns are beauti - o h

Na h-Eileanan Seunta, The cultivated areas of Airihghean c was found. This type of stone is ful on a calm day, but fearsome i N Enchanted Islands) lie between a’Baigh and Airihghean na h- m

common in Ireland, but unusual when the sea is rough. a Skye and Lewis at the south end Annaid on Eilean Garbh and d in Scotland. It was perhaps A of the Minch and are about most of the top of buried by the builders for good Landing The best landing is on 18km (11mi) east of Scalpay. (G The Virgin’s Island) are luck, and probably came from a the shingle and boulder beach at The rocks here are volcanic and, unusually fertile land for this much earlier church site. Mol Mor on the east side of the at 60 million years, very young reason. Feannagan may still be isthmus, between Eilean Tighe by Hebridean standards. discerned in these areas. Another interesting find was a and Garbh Eilean. Cross incised stone Dolerite columns of Garbh Eilean gold torc which was dredged up Geology The Dolerite columns Apart from the 19 th century S by some Scalpay scallop fisher - M on the north side of Garbh house and adjacent ruins on N men southwest of the islands. Eilean (G Rough Isle) are over Eilean an Tighe (G House This beautiful object dates from 100m tall and about 2m across. Island) there is additional evi - around 1200BC and, while sim - Similar to those at and dence of human occupation. It ilar torcs have turned up else - the Giant’s Causeway, they were seems that the islands were where in UK, this is by far the caused by the slow cooling of inhabited up until the late 18 th furthest north. It is possible to volcanic rocks deep under - century, when changes in land speculate endlessly about the ground. In some places the ownership and society made the provenance of such a find, and basalt is overlain by Jurassic old way of life no longer viable. whether it got there by ship - mudstone, which weathers to wreck, or as a votive offering. form much more fertile soil than Chapels There are several pos - elsewhere in the Western Isles. sible chapel sites. The first may Seabirds The Shiants are a Golden torc Eilean Tighe and Garbh Eilean from Eilean Mhuire Eilean Garbh in 1815 by William Daniell major seabird breeding site due Feannagan (lazybeds) on Garbh Eilean Eilean Garbh from Eilean an Tighe with Mol Mo to their location next to good feeding grounds and the lack of predators, except for Black Rats. Huge numbers of Puffin s breed in burrows on the slopes of Garbh Eilean , as well as signifi - cant numbers of Guillemots, Razorbills, Fulmars, Kittiwakes, Shags, Gulls and Great Skuas. Although St Kilda has more Puffins, the sheer density on the Shiants is greater.

200 201 OUTLIERS - R OCKALL "THE MOST ISOLATED SMALL ROCK IN THE OCEANS OF THE WORLD ." s e

n owned steamer was en route to o J

d New York with 727 passen - r a h c

i gers and 68 crew when it hit R Helen’s Reef in fog at 7:45am. The ship reversed off the rock, but was badly damaged and sank within 20 minutes.

Unfortunately the 8 lifeboats could only carry 251 sur - vivors. As a result 635 people died and only 160 were saved. The captain was exonerated, but the lessons were not learnt. A similar, but much greater, lack of lifeboats was to result in a much severer loss of life only 8 years later when the SS Titanic sank, also in fog. Rockall with the Hasselwood Rock in the background ROCKALL (ON Hrukka , a Geology The Rockall Bank On 18 th September 1955 the Other documented losses fold or wrinkle or Rok , foam - was formed about 55 million rock was annexed for the include a French or Spanish ing sea) is a very remote vol - years ago as a result of volcanic British Crown by a party from fishing vessel in 1686, from canic plug located 300km activity. Rockall and the near - HMS Vidal , who landed by which survivors reached St (187mi) west of St Kilda at by shoals are formed of gran - helicopter. A plaque was Kilda, reported by Martin RAF Coastal Command picture taken in March 1943 57 o35’N, 13 o41’W. It is about ite. affixed, which read, “By Martin. The brigantine Helen 21m high and rises sheer out authority of Her Majesty Queen from Dundee, headed for Territorial Claims This iso - Act 1972 and is within the of the sea. It is situated on the Landings In August 1810 the Elizabeth II, by the Grace of Quebec, went aground on a lated rock has been claimed by Exclusive Economic Zone Rockall Bank. Helen’s Reef is frigate HMS Endymion sailed God of the of rock here in 1824. The crew United Kingdom, Eire, claimed by UK. Negotiations one of several nearby skerries to Rockall and plotted its Great Britain and Northern abandoned ship with the only and Denmark. It was regarding the exploitation of and is about 2km to the position. The ship returned in Ireland and of her other realms boat, and left the passengers to formally annexed by Great possible oil and gas reserves northeast. These reefs and the July 1811, to survey the and territories Queen, Head of their fate. Britain in the Island of Rockall continue. nearby Hasselwood Rock are Rockall Bank . A landing was the Commonwealth, Defender Basil Hall from “HMS Endymion” landing on Rockall in 1811 Royal Navy landing in 1955 normally only visible at very effected on 8 th September, the of the Faith, and in accordance low tides. first to be recorded. with Her Majesty's instructions dated the 14 th day of September, SS Norge which foundered on Helen’s Reef in 1904 with great loss of life 1955, a landing was effected this day upon this island of Rockall from HMS Vidal. The Union flag was hoisted and possession of the island was taken in the name of Her Majesty. [Signed] R H Connell, Captain, HMS Vidal, 18 th September 1955.”

Shipwrecks have occurred here, the most serious being the SS Norge on 28 June 1904. This 3359GRT Danish

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