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Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: a Review

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Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: a Review nutrients Review Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review Monika Michalak 1,* , Monika Pierzak 2, Beata Kr˛ecisz 1 and Edyta Suliga 2 1 Department of Dermatology, Cosmetology and Aesthetic Surgery, The Institute of Medical Sciences, Medical College, Jan Kochanowski University, Zeromskiego˙ 5, 25-369 Kielce, Poland; [email protected] 2 Department of Nutrition and Dietetics, The Institute of Health Sciences, Medical College, Jan Kochanowski University, Zeromskiego˙ 5, 25-369 Kielce, Poland; [email protected] (M.P.); [email protected] (E.S.) * Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +48-41-349-69-70 Abstract: Human skin is continually changing. The condition of the skin largely depends on the individual’s overall state of health. A balanced diet plays an important role in the proper functioning of the human body, including the skin. The present study draws attention to bioactive substances, i.e., vitamins, minerals, fatty acids, polyphenols, and carotenoids, with a particular focus on their effects on the condition of the skin. The aim of the study was to review the literature on the effects of bioactive substances on skin parameters such as elasticity, firmness, wrinkles, senile dryness, hydration and color, and to define their role in the process of skin ageing. Keywords: skin care; skin health; bioactive substances; phytonutrients; antioxidants; nutraceuticals 1. Introduction The skin is the largest organ of the human body. It is composed of the epidermis, which consists of epithelial tissue, and the dermis, which consists of connective tissue. Under the dermis, there is a layer of subcutaneous tissue called the hypodermis (Figure1). The epidermis comprises a horny layer (stratum corneum), a clear layer (stratum lucidum), Citation: Michalak, M.; Pierzak, M.; Kr˛ecisz,B.; Suliga, E. Bioactive a granular layer (stratum granulosum), a spinous layer (stratum spinosum) and a basal Compounds for Skin Health: A layer (stratum basale). Apart from keratinocytes—cells involved in keratinization—the Review. Nutrients 2021, 13, 203. five-layer epidermis also contains pigment cells and melanocytes, as well as Langerhans https://doi.org/10.3390/nu13010203 cells, mastocytes, and Merkel cells. It is closely connected to the dermis underneath by the basement membrane. The dermis, which comprises a papillary layer (primarily Received: 11 December 2020 loose connective tissue) and a reticular layer (dense connective tissue), contains fibroblasts Accepted: 9 January 2021 responsible for the production of collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), as Published: 12 January 2021 well as numerous blood vessels, nerve endings, and appendages, such as hair follicles and sweat and sebaceous glands. The subcutaneous tissue consists of loose connective tissue Publisher’s Note: MDPI stays neu- containing fat cells (adipocytes) forming fat lobules [1–3]. tral with regard to jurisdictional clai- The skin performs a wide variety of complex functions. It provides an optimal envi- ms in published maps and institutio- ronment for deeper tissues by separating them from the external environment and, at the nal affiliations. same time, ensures contact with it through the exchange of substances and reception of stimuli. The skin protects against biological agents (potentially pathogenic microbes), chem- ical agents (corrosive, irritating and allergenic substances) and physical factors (sunlight, Copyright: © 2021 by the authors. Li- ionizing radiation, infrared radiation, and mechanical and thermal factors). It performs censee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. important functions in water and electrolyte balance (epidermal barrier and sweat glands), This article is an open access article thermoregulation (thermoreceptors) and the immune response (skin-associated lymphoid distributed under the terms and con- tissues (SALT)). It is also an important sensory organ (with free nerve endings, Pacinian ditions of the Creative Commons At- corpuscles, Meissner corpuscles, Ruffini corpuscles, Krause end bulbs and Merkel cells). In tribution (CC BY) license (https:// addition, it is involved in metabolism and homeostasis and is responsible for the elimina- creativecommons.org/licenses/by/ tion, selective absorption and storage of substances [1,4]. 4.0/). Nutrients 2021, 13, 203. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu13010203 https://www.mdpi.com/journal/nutrients Nutrients 2021, 13, x FOR PEER REVIEW 2 of 31 and is responsible for the elimination, selective absorption and storage of substances [1,4]. Nutrients 2021, 13, 203 One of the most common dermatological and cosmetic concerns is skin2 of 31ageing: a natural, complex process influenced by two mechanisms—intrinsic (genetic, chronolog- ical) ageing resulting from the passage of time, and extrinsic ageing (photoaging), caused by environmentalOne of the mostfactors common (including dermatological UV radiation, and cosmetic environmental concerns pollution is skin ageing: and acigarette natural, complex process influenced by two mechanisms—intrinsic (genetic, chronological) smoke)ageing [5–8]. resulting The two from processes the passage overlap of time, andand extrinsicare closely ageing linked (photoaging), to increased caused reactive by ox- ygenenvironmental species (ROS) factors and (including oxidative UV stress radiation, in the environmental skin [9]. Both pollution the intrinsic and cigarette and extrinsic processessmoke) are [5– 8associated]. The two processeswith biochemical overlap and dist areurbances closely linked(e.g., the to increased excessive reactive formation of oxygenoxygen radicals, species (ROS)leading and to oxidative protein stress and inDNA the skin damage, [9]. Both amino the intrinsic acid andracemization, extrinsic and non-enzymaticprocesses are glycosylation, associated with leading biochemical to the disturbances abnormal (e.g., cross-linking the excessive of formationcollagen fibers of and otheroxygen structural radicals, proteins), leading to as protein well as and changes DNA damage, in the amino physical, acid racemization,morphological and and non- physio- enzymatic glycosylation, leading to the abnormal cross-linking of collagen fibers and other logicalstructural properties proteins), of the as well epidermis as changes and in thederm physical,is. These morphological include disturbances and physiological in the func- tionproperties of the epidermal of the epidermis barrier, and the dermis. flattening These of includethe dermal–epidermal disturbances in the junction, function a of reduced numberthe epidermal and activity barrier, of thefibroblasts, flattening the of the accumula dermal–epidermaltion of abnormal junction, aelasti reducedn fibers number (elastosis), andand the activity impaired of fibroblasts, functioning the accumulation of Langerhans of abnormal cells [6,10–13]. elastin fibers Features (elastosis), characteristic and the of matureimpaired skin functioninginclude wrinkles, of Langerhans a loss cells of elasticity, [6,10–13]. Features changes characteristic in color, uneven of mature pigmentation skin include wrinkles, a loss of elasticity, changes in color, uneven pigmentation and discoloring, and discoloring, dryness, foci of abnormal epidermal keratosis, telangiectasias, suscepti- dryness, foci of abnormal epidermal keratosis, telangiectasias, susceptibility to irritation, bilityand to slower irritation, skin regeneration and slower and skin healing regeneration [5,8]. With age,and thehealing degradation [5,8]. ofWith blood age, vessels the degra- dationleads of to blood insufficient vessels blood leads supply to insufficient and, thus, the blood inadequate supply oxygenation and, thus, and the nourishment inadequate oxy- genationof the skinand [nourishment8]. of the skin [8]. Figure 1.Figure Skin 1. structureSkin structure (own (own work, work, photo: photo: Department Department of of ClinicalClinical and and Experimental Experimental Pathology, Pathol Medicalogy, Medical College, College, Jan Jan KochanowskiKochanowski University). University). ManyMany authors authors stress stress the the relationship between between a suitably a suitably balanced balanced diet and diet the and con- the con- dition of the human body, including the appearance and functioning of the skin [14–17] dition of the human body, including the appearance and functioning of the skin [14–17] (Table 1). The intake of essential nutrients in the daily diet is extremely important for the (Tablebiological 1). The processes intake of taking essential place in nutrients both young in andthe ageingdaily skindiet [is15 ,extremely18]. The skin important is a tissue for the biologicalwith high processes proliferative taking potential, place which in both is why young an adequate and ageing intake skin of proteins, [15,18]. carbohy- The skin is a tissuedrates with and high fats, whichproliferative are essential potential, for cellular which generation, is why is so an important adequate [18– 20intake]. The over-of proteins, carbohydratesall condition and of the fats, skin—its which surface are essential texture, color, for andcellular physiological generation,properties—results is so important [18– 20]. fromThe factorsoverall such condition as hydration, of the i.e., skin—its the presence surface of an texture, adequate color, amount and of physiological water in the prop- stratum corneum, sebum content and surface acidity. Natural moisturizing factor (NMF), erties—results from factors such as hydration, i.e., the presence of an adequate amount of water in the stratum corneum, sebum
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