Sal e!

1st - 30th November 2014 36th Anniversary

Foundation Jewellers Pte Ltd 11 Cavenagh Road #01-03/04/05, Holiday Inn Singapore Orchard City Centre, Singapore 229616 Tel: (65) 6732 6141 / 6738 3151 Business Hours: Monday - Friday 12:30pm -8.30pm | Saturday 12:30pm -6.00pm | Closed on Sunday & Public Holidays. 26 contents 31 11

ISSUE 4 • 2014 www.peranakan.org.sg

EDITORIAL THEATRE On the cover & Page 17 • Portrait of Cheang Hong Lim by an unknown photographer, 3 Changes Ahead 29 Baba Sedia! (Attention!) 1870s. 30 Of Heartbreak and Healing

Photograph from the collection FEATURES of Mr and Mrs Lee Kip Lee. 4 Recapturing the Baba Mojo BOOKS 8 Growing Up in My Very 31 There was a Peranakan Own Joo Chiat Woman Who Lived in a 11 Baba Dandy Shoe 18 Regal Moments The Peranakans are EVENTS Received in London 32 Ikebana goes Peranakan 20 The Kebaya Goes to 33 A Trip throughTime Buckingham Palace Who is a Chetti Melaka? 21 And Closer to Home Inspecting the Troops NOTICEBOARD 34 Peranakan Associations Chakap Chakap in the Region 22 Growing Up Baba 24 A Peranakan New Year DIRECTORY Eucharistic Celebration 35 The Peranakan Guide, Singapore DALAM DAPOR 26 All in the Family CHAKAP HABIS 36 The Life Cycle of a Baba 20

THE PERANAKAN ASSOCIATION SINGAPORE President: Peter Wee • First Vice-President: Alan Koh • Second Vice-President: Chan Eng Thai • Honorary Secretary: Ee Sin Soo • Assistant Honorary Secretary: Gwen Ong • Treasurer: Angeline Kong • Assistant Treasurer: Edmond Wong • Committee Members: Kevin Aeria, Monica Alsagoff, Gavin Chan Linda Chee, Zan Ho, Emeric Lau • For enquiries please contact Peter Wee at +65 63451220 THE PERANAKAN MAGAZINE • Editor: Linda Chee • Assistant Editor: Emeric Lau • Editorial Committee Members: Colin Chee, Bryan Tan • Webmaster: Edmond Wong • Designer: Michelle Yap • Administrative Manager: Sean Tan • Advertising Manager: Alvin Sng • For advertising enquiries, please contact Alvin Sng at 9839 8188 The Peranakan is published by The Peranakan Association Singapore, Raffles City PO Box 1640, Singapore 911755. Email:[email protected] • Printer: Lithographic Print House Pte Ltd. MCI (P) 138/10/2014

1 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 2 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 Like us at Kim Poh Hong Goldsmith e ditorial changes ahead

“ alu sia.” (“So embarrassing.”) Baba Alan Koh, our First Vice-President, had an earful over the phone from a disgruntled nyonya after our Exposed! IssueM 3, 2014 was out. Other nyonyas called Baba Peter Wee, our President, complaining over our audacity in showing the unseen side of Peranakan society. We are delighted. Once in a while the magazine team likes to try something different. We are glad to get responses, positive or otherwise! From a photo essay on nyonyas who go au naturel, in this issue y father Lee Baba Peter Lee moves on to another visual essay that delves into the Kip Lee, whose world of stylish babas in the 19th century. At this point, the team would boyhood dream like to say a million thanks to Peter for his 20 years of service to the Mwas to become a newspaper magazine - from the time when he and his father, Uncle Kip, printed it journalist, started the as a two-pager, to the glossy product that readers compliment us with Peranakan newsletter in today. We will miss him and Uncle Kip as Advisers. But, thankfully, we 1994. He got me to lay it can still look forward to Peter as the erudite writer. out for him on my newly- We also bid farewell, with much reluctance, to our super-efficient acquired Mac Classic Administrative Manager, Low Whee Hoon, who has been with us for computer. We have been at nine years, and Art Director John Lee, who literally transformed the this together for 20 years look of the magazine over the past two years. Two young babas have now. A year ago, when come on board - Sean Tan, who takes over from Whee Hoon, and he was 91, he suffered a writer, Bryan Tan. Edmond Wong returns to the team as Webmaster mild stroke, and so family after a break of three years. priorities have changed. He This will be our last year as a quarterly magazine. In 2015, The has always believed in the Peranakan will be produced twice a year. Working on four issues has importance of continuity been intense, though enjoyable, for our team of volunteers. After so and how a good handover many years, we have decided to have more room to work on each issue. facilitates this. We graduated We hope you will understand. Do continue to give us feedback. from editors to advisers, Best wishes for the New Year. passing the mantle to Linda Chee and her team, and Linda Chee now it is time to take our Editor leave of the committee to make way for new members, and new ideas. We wish armest congratulations the magazine and the to Baba Alvin Tan, association every success, The artistic director of and that it will continue to NecessaryW Stage, upon being conferred inspire, amuse, and unite the Cultural Medallion. We take pride everyone interested in that this is an accolade to the things Peranakans. May the creativity of the Peranakans. Since it magazine long perpetuate was introduced in 1979, two other the grand Peranakan spirit. babas, Dick Lee and Ivan Heng, have Panjang panjang umor! been awarded Singapore’s highest cultural honour. - Peter Lee

Copyright is by the publisher. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. The Peranakan magazine and The Peranakan Association Singapore disclaim all responsibilities in the articles herein, and state that the views expressed in them, if any, are those of the writers and not theirs. They assume no responsibility for unsolicited materials or articles published herein and state that the writers are wholly responsible for the veracity and authenticity of their articles.

Like us at Kim Poh Hong Goldsmith 3 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 feature

recapturing the baba mojo Baba Desmond Sim recalls the travails of growing up Peranakan

Desmond paints from scenes he misses, and moments he holds dear. This painting done eight years ago is titled Little Baba’s Big Dreams.

4 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 eing Baba was never easy, and still remains difficult for me. My father, bless his soul, was a singkeh Teochew man who moved in with my nyonya mother’s Bextended Peranakan family home (I suspect) after tasting my Teochew nyonya maternal grandmother’s amazing food. So for the first seven years of my life, I assumed that everyone’s female relatives swanned around in elegant kebayas and colourful floral sarongs. I believed that every ways that some hard core Chinese were not. I was refrigerator held a handy bottle of crunchy, tangy living with so much richness, but not appreciating it achar and fiery sambal belachan. And I thought the at all…I just remembered being made to feel different constant melange of gossip, code-switching from and left out. English to Hokkien to Malay to Peranakan patois and As I grew into my teens, I began to seriously Teochew, was a norm in all Singaporean homes. explore this Peranakan-ness in me. I was a very Boy was I wrong. And I found out soon enough. methodical scholar in my teens and early 20’s. As soon as I was old I was told Peranakans enough for sleepovers at were first Confucian, and friends’ homes, I found that Taoist or Buddhist, and there were local Chinese then Christian… and so, I families who loved their proceeded to study all these food bland! Bleah. They look with a fanatic fervour during puzzled when I asked for and outside of philosophy sambal belachan and chilli. classes at the National “If you kill your tastebuds, University of Singapore. But how can you taste your food?” those philosophies, though these singkehs asked me with helping to shape the culture, genuine concern written all were not unique to it. I over their faces. I just smiled needed something more. And lamely and missed granny’s so I started collecting the ayam buah keluak at the material culture – old kebayas, dinner tables of my singkeh old sarongs and batiks, Chinese friend’s homes. antique photos, porcelain, On the buses, it was not some furniture, silver and uncommon to be told off jewellery – to study and learn. by Mandarin-speaking bus Professor Ho Wing Meng’s drivers and conductors for (he taught me philosophy at piping up in English or the university too) essential patois. They scolded me for books on Peranakan material At the 2012 Peranakan Convention where, to my surprise, being Chinese but unable to I won one of the best dressed prizes. culture were always on my speak Chinese well. That was coffee table and always read when I was made aware of the orang china, bukan happily. I knew more after a few years, after reading all china (OCBC) label that singkeh chauvinists stuck on the books, and handling enough of the actual bits and us. Again I smiled weakly and did my best with my pieces of Peranakanalia I had found in antique shops funny-sounding Mandarin. and acquired - but that was still not putting my finger At that young age, being Baba did not make much on being a Peranakan. sense. It made me feel alienated from all the others who were not like us – those people (especially Painting Nyonyas classically-educated Chinese) who thought nothing Then, whilst on this journey to find my Peranakan of making me feel culturally diluted, compromised self, I started doing something interesting. I had or inaccurate. I was too busy trying to fit in and started writing plays and painting in my teens, overlooked the fact that being Peranakan meant I something to keep myself busy - to cope with my got to enjoy so many things from the culture - the wildly untamed imagination and nervous young tea dances, all the wonderful kueh kueh and cuisine energy. I wrote about life in Singapore as I saw dished out by kinfolk and family friends, the affinity it, and won some awards for having tried. Then I for local craft, fabrics, creativity, and being connected experimented with painting in all styles and modes meaningfully to so many races and cultures in myriad – from still life, to surreal, to abstract. The paintings

5 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 Timeless Treasure

Let Your showers of blessing come upon my life. Ezekiel 34:26 Make all grace abound toward me, that I will have sufficiency in all things and abound to every good work. 2Cor.9:8 You reward me because I diligently seek You. Heb.11:6 Let me lay up gold as dust. Job 22:24 I love wisdom, I inherit substance, and my treasures are filled. Proverbs 8:21

Be enthralled with the timeless craftsmanship of beauty in gold, intan and old european cut diamond jewelleries, ceramics and beautifully embroidered antique kebayas which are the Footprints of the Peranakans here at Timeless Treasure! Come & take a piece of memory with you from our range of ageless collectibles.

TIMELESS TREASURE 19 Tanglin Road #03-47, Tanglin Shopping Centre, Singapore 247909 • Tel: 68352235 • HP: 96720713 Email: [email protected] 6 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 feature

create from what precious things and delicious food, being Peranakan is still unquantifiable. It is so very hard to apply a you“ know well, then list of bullet point factors that makes one Peranakan Timeless Treasure or not: all the practices, pantangs, foibles, food you will find the and material culture and belief systems, all that is heart of the matter. Peranakan. But there is more. were pretty and interesting, but nothing seemed to” Tough and spirited Let Your showers of blessing come upon my life. Ezekiel 34:26 gel for me. It was as if I was doing a lot of these things Being a person in a genuine hybridised culture simply to show off that I could do them. While the takes courage, strength and thick skin. People Make all grace abound toward me, that I will have sufficiency in all results seemed well liked by my audience, I wasn’t will doubt you, and laugh and call you names for things and abound to every good work. 2Cor.9:8 feeling anything deep or meaningful about my being different, for sticking out. People will mock Heb.11:6 endeavours. your difference or gossip about our obstinate You reward me because I diligently seek You. Then one day, at a writing workshop conducted by loudness and Let me lay up gold as dust. Job 22:24 a renowned foreign playwright, I learnt something crass fierceness. I love wisdom, I inherit substance, and my treasures are filled. Proverbs 8:21 important – “create from what you know well, then But you know you will find the heart of the matter”. And so I tried to what? We needed do exactly that with my paintings. Instead of painting to be tough and Chinese courtesans or western surrealist copies, I spirited in order began to draw nyonyas, Peranakan children and the to be special, in actual lives that we led in the years past. I painted order to stand the from scenes I missed, and moments I held dear. sometimes pointed And for the first time when my paintings were put ridicule and up for a show – I felt a tingle of pride. sometimes subtle So I plunged right in. Somehow, even when I was discriminations we creating, taking artistic licence, reinventing, I was had to put up with. very sure what felt authentic, and what was fake – in We also had to have a colour combination, inflection, curve of a pot, drape an immense sense of a sarong, posture of a mother and her sleeping of humour and wit child wrapped in an old quilt… all these I had stored to survive. Despite in my head as a child, nurtured over the years and modernisation, kept precious. I had somehow managed to free despite language the Baba in me on canvas. I was at last feeling and policies, despite expressing as an artist. the push to Of course, I wasn’t quite sure about all this. I simplify cultural thought I was just indulging myself and making definitions, we people smile with the bright colours and warm- still persisted and hearted content. Those that loved and/or acquired insisted on being

my paintings were locals as well as foreigners. And leh-cheh, complex, Postcards from Rosa, a fictional play many of them weren’t Peranakan. So I wasn’t quite elaborate and inspired by the stories that my maternal sure if it was the Peranakan they recognised in my ornamented - as grandma Rosa, a Teochew nyonya, told me about her early life. works (I had started writing my first English language is the true nature Peranakan plays as well) or that all this was just of our being. Faded and disappearing? I think exotica to novelty hunters. evolved is more like it. As a culture, we have always After more than a dozen exhibitions, at the been adapting and merging and accommodating in opening of one of my solo shows, Mr Peter Wee, our order to survive. And so we persist, with honesty current TPAS President, came by after viewing my and integrity – even when the going gets tough. Our pieces and patted me on the shoulder. He said simply forefathers endured a lot to get here and make a and quietly, “All this… is very – Peranakan. I can feel home on a rock, didn’t they? Why should we expect them.” I gulped my thank you, but I had a tough time our journey to be any less arduous. Let’s just get on Be enthralled with the timeless craftsmanship of beauty in gold, intan and old european cut diamond jewelleries, blinking back my tears. I had needed to hear that with it - laugh, argue, work hard, have a party, pray, ceramics and beautifully embroidered antique kebayas which are the Footprints of the Peranakans here at Timeless so badly, and now instead of pushing it back, I was hold hands, and enjoy all the beautiful things and Treasure! Come & take a piece of memory with you from our range of ageless collectibles. so very proud of the label I wore then – and now. yummilicious food life has to offer us! Peranakan. Today, I no longer have doubts. The Baba has TIMELESS TREASURE You see, besides all the beautiful objects and recaptured his mojo. 19 Tanglin Road #03-47, Tanglin Shopping Centre, Singapore 247909 • Tel: 68352235 • HP: 96720713 Email: [email protected] 7 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 f eature growing up in my very own joo chiat Baba Richard Tan gets nostalgic about his colourful childhood in Joo Chiat

was born in the mid- hide-and-seek amidst the rows of shophouses with 1950s and lived most spiral staircases. It was truly an age of innocence, of my childhood days ignited by wild imagination and fueled by the old folks Iwith my paternal grandmother, warning us about “nanti kena tangkap” (kidnapped) Baby Woon Bee Bee, at 175A, Joo Chiat Road. It was by hantu tetek (big-breasted spirits)! My siblings and a colourful vicinity comprising a very long street I would imagine flying boobies chasing, knocking us of shophouses where hawkers pushed their carts out as we ran for our lives, or being squeezed and while bechas (trishaws) trundled past shops making suffocated to death between two giant mammary umbrellas, repairing bicycles, selling furniture, glands! Urgh! provisions and a bustling motley of other trades. At night, bapoks (transgenders) and bar brawls were INTO THE SPIRIT WORLD commonplace. It was also a time when my early observation of In the early 1960s, when black-and-white television Chinese festivals became more acute as I wandered came to Singapore, we would carry our wooden into the temple grounds behind grandma’s home. That bangku (stools) or crates on our heads and plonk was my first brush with the heart-thumping ‘cheng them in front of Rediffusion’s TV showroom, just tong cheng’ drums to herald the ‘turun datok’ (spirits to watch our favourite cartoons like Bugs Bunny, descending into the human world through mediums Popeye and classics like Lassie, the Lone Ranger, in a trance). The drama of wayang pek-ji (Chinese Tarzan, the Little Rascals and more. You can say this street opera) with the bold theatrical make-up, distinct was how our young kampong (village) spirit started. facial expressions, larger-than-life mimed movements Soon after, Grandma Baby, whom we called Mama and stylised singing were so strange and yet, so Biru because of a blue marking on her left temple, exciting! decided she could afford to sewa (rent) a TV from In the next lane, in stark contrast, another kind of Rediffusion. Then our home had our own following spirit world prevailed – alcoholics who drank toddy of kampong kawan kawan (friends) in grandma’s TV (fermented coconut wine) behind the Joo Chiat Post corner, clashing with the clatter of mahjong tiles and Office. By noon, there would be a few dozen of these chatty bibiks main cherki (elderly ladies gambling in a mabok mamaks (drunk Indians) in high spirits as they popular card game). Mama Biru was the jovial livewire lintang pukang, terlentang (sprawled out) in drunken in the extended family. She drank her samsu (rice stupor or dozed off by the road side. wine) on the rocks and was a prolific storyteller who As our embok embok (elderly Peranakan ladies) became livelier, the more she drank. I am the product would declare, “Minom sampay tak sedair diri!” of what she was! (drink until senseless!). This was also our first scary As young children, our magical playground was encounter with indecent exposure. “Ternampak pisang the grubby and sandy back lanes, a haven for playing rajah! Suay sekali!” (can see their banana (penis)!

A Tan family reunion at Mama Biru’s 75th birthday dinner back in 1985. I am the moustachioed young man in red, with a full crop of hair then, standing behind. My father, Dicky Tan Kim Swee, is seated on the left of Mama Biru while my eldest aunty, or Mak Koh Margaret, is seated on the right, with her husband, Tio Tio Jack, standing on the extreme right. My mother, Lucy Ng Gek Choo, is standing behind my father. Standing in the centre, dressed in red, is my youngest aunty, Kochik Amy, who was match-made to Charlie, standing next to her, when she was 40 years old! The others are my younger siblings, from left: Sisters Diana, Susan, Iryn (deceased), younger brother Simon (partially hidden), Cherry (his wife) and Dolly. Standing in front is my nephew, Don, whose mother Daisy is not in the photograph.

8 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 growing up in my very own joo chiat bad luck!), lamented our embok embok, as they “sua out delicious kueh koswee, kueh sarlat, kueh lapis, kueh tentu kala, kalu pi main judi!” (”would surely lose in bengka, ondeh ondeh, giant kueh tair (pineapple tarts) gambling”). and her legendary seaweed agar agar (jelly). Come nightfall, a different breed of ‘celestial’ Sometimes, Bibik Burok would even join in a game beings would appear. Right behind our house, an of cherki or just pegang tangan (stand-in) for a player assembly of colourful ‘fairies’ would prance, sashay taking a quick toilet/tea break. Then the joke would their way down the road, and meet up for a fair be, “Kalu menang, gua punya! Kalu kalah, lu bayar!” (if exchange of grooming and deportment workshops. you win, it’s mine. If you lose, it’s yours to pay). Who Comparing their most outrageous lipstick shades would have imagined that these vivid memories would and their ‘yankiest’ outfits, these ‘fashion-sista’ surface in the hilarious setting and comedy theme for transgenders were the most notorious, infamous my Wayang Peranakan (theatre) production, ‘Bibiks ‘Pondan Clan’ of Tembeling Road. They gave the Behind Bars’, in 2002! bargirls and hookers working in the sleazy bars a run My favourite late supper vendor was the kaichok for their money! (chicken porridge) uncle and his pretty daughter, who As the saying went: “Pua kiri! Pua kanan! Belok kiri, would appear around 10 pm. They would park their nampak jantan! Belok kanan, jumpa pondan!” (“Turn cart in front of the sleazy bar at the corner and go left, see sex-starved men! Turn right, meet a trannie!) from door to door to take orders. Apparently they also Joo Chiat was abuzz with delicious street food took cubicle to cubicle orders from the bars. Not to from push cart hawkers. The Indian mee goreng miss, my grandma’s gambling kakis (partners) as well. seller would hit his giant wok loudly with his ladle, I can still savour in my mind the aroma of chicken “Keng! Keng! Keng!”, to notify of his arrival. I can porridge with ‘spare parts’, gizzards and all. still hear my grand-aunt bibik Touk-Yu (dark black Come sunrise, our daily routines began. A van sauce, a nickname), in the middle of her cherki game, would drive up and when the rear door opened, hey lamenting loudly, “Si-jual mee goreng tu, selalu ketok presto! a mini-mart appeared. It saved residents from kuali! Lari jerki! Suay sair!” (“That mee goreng seller, a trip to the Joo Chiat wet market. My fondest memory he’s always knocking his wok! All the luck will run was drinking chilled fresh milk for breakfast from the away! How unfortunate!”). bright yellow pyramid-shaped Magnolia tetra-pack. Just snip off the top and push in a straw. Across the BIBIK BUROK road, delivery boys from the provision shop Guan Hoe Between grandma’s home cooked makan laok Soon (before it became a Peranakan restaurant) were meja for lunch and dinner was tea time. We knew all ready with their little 555 notebook to take orders just when to make our way home and wait in of rice, sugar, canned food and Tongkat Ah Pek (Old anticipation for the arrival of Bibik Burok (Ugly), Man’s Walking Stick) samsu for grandma. It was her the most authentic kueh (dessert) vendor. Dressed elixir of life and kept her going strong till she was 94 in her baju panjang and armed with two giant bakol years old. siah (lacquered baskets), she My best time was a pilgrimage to Joo Chiat wet was truly the Mary Poppins of The Chinese temple at market with grandma. The journey to the market at kueh embok embok. With the Tembeling Road where the junction of Joo Chiat Road and Changi Road basic ingredients of rice flour, many Peranakans in the was one amazing, exciting adventure! neighbourhood used to tapioca, glutinous rice, coconut, converge to worship the gula melaka (brown coconut deities. It was where I sugar), bunga telang (organic became more aware of blue pea flower colouring), Chinese culture. she could magically churn

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Along the way we would have passed by the open air would give grandma a coin-shaped dog-tag to identify Lily Cinema. I remember clutching a movie flyer with the chicken we picked. Grandma was quite an expert, the ‘Akan Datang’ (Coming) banner in sepia print. weaving through the market stalls, in her char-kiak Then with a hop and a skip, I would walk past the clogs, in a well choreographed journey to buy pork, brilliantly hued flowers neatly lined along the five- fish, vegetables, herbs, spices and rempahs! foot-way, below the spiral staircases of shop houses. It Then it was time to flag down a becha (trishaw) was at one of these stairs that my pretty, younger sister to balek rumah (return home). Grandma would pass Swee Lian was given up for adoption at the tender age me forty cents to pay the rider. The ride home was of two. Back then, Mum had made us promise never going back in reverse, where I could wave goodbye to bring up this subject. But she has mellowed since, to the vendors and people we saw earlier. I love wondering how her third child is today. But that is lain my childhood days! Maybe it is time for another cherita (another story for a different time). Peranakan play about “Travels with My Mama”. One of the highlights of my budak days was visiting INTO THE SPIRIT WORLD the Gunong Sayang Association at Ceylon Road. My Today, this stretch of Joo Chiat Road is so ‘dead’ granduncle,Tay Ang Liang was a regular here. His in the day time. Back then, it was packed with mak kaki botol kawan (drinking buddies) would spend minahs (Malay aunties), bibiks, amahs (servants) in the weekend to tohgoh (booze), sing dondang sayang black-and-white samfoos and street vendors plying (traditional songs) and joget (local Malay social dance). local delicacies - an eclectic mix of Chinese, Malay, That was my early exposure to our Peranakan culture Indian and Peranakan makan choices! I can still smell in music, song and dance! the aroma of piping hot, steamed kueh tutu; freshly I recently took a stroll down memory lane, through roasted chestnuts and sugary sweet minchiang kueh; the very back lanes and side streets of Joo Chiat my favourite chee cheong fun with sesame seeds, chioh- that I grew up in. I was completely disoriented and cheng (soya sauce) and chilli chuka (chilli with vinegar); deeply disappointed. Hardly anything from my past the aroma of the cheena bak chang versus the nyonya had remained. Where we used to live is now a Design kueh chang; bright orange sugar (gula pasir) and freshly Centre. Dunia sua tak sama! (the world is no longer grated kelapa over the putu mayam; ….just endless! the same). At the wet market, chickens were openly Richard Tan, now 58, remains rooted in the Peranakan culture slaughtered and de-feathered. The chicken seller as a founder-director of The Main Wayang Company.

10 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 Baba Dandy The sarong kebaya has been grabbing all the attention, and it is easy to forget that the Babas were also lavish style-setters. Peter Lee unearths some old images of dapper Peranakan men, taken in the 1860s, at the dawn of photography in Asia.

ot often could one see in the Dutch NEast Indies, a Chinese man in a jifu or informal dragon robe, of the kind worn by civil officials of the Chinese court. The subject of this 1860s photograph by J.B. Jasper of Semarang is an unknown, but obviously influential local Baba showing off an official robe befitting his rank, which in most likelihood was purchased. It was not uncommon for wealthy merchants in China (especially the south) or the diaspora to pose for a photograph in a jifu without the requisite surcoat or bufu ( ) and rank badge (buzi, ), and a bead necklace (chaozhu, ). His winter court hat (chaoguan, ) with its feather decoration (lingyu, ) has a rather tall finial, fashionable in the late Qing dynasty. In the Indies, wealthy merchants often flouted sumptuary regulations and had theirs made of gold, and sometimes even set with diamonds, which would have been reserved only for the imperial family. The photograph could easily be mistaken for one taken in China, but hints of the Indies can be seen in the subject’s rather European- style ring worn on the index finger of his left hand, and the crumpled cotton handkerchief in his right hand.

All photographs from the collection of Mr and Mrs Lee Kip Lee.

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y at least the second half of August Sachtler, and the robe, , bib) and nothing else! The o-to the nineteenth century the usually made of silk damask, tends was often made of patchwork. Bchang pao ( ), known to have a simple round collar This style has an ancient history to the Babas by the Hokkien rather than the mandarin collar, — even Dutch boys in eighteenth term tng sah ( , long gown), which is a standard feature of the century Batavia dressed in this was worn as an expression of twentieth-century version. Perhaps manner, and it is a word that has leisurely and understated elegance. what is even more engaging in crept into the Malay, Indonesian However it is uncertain if this this image, though, is the fretful and Javanese language. The was a common habit, as there expression of the girl in the baju combination of the o-to with a are no known photographs of a panjang, who, hand resting on pair of Victorian button-up ankle Baba snapped outdoors dressed her head, has clearly been forced strap leather shoes is a perfect in this manner. This form of to keep still. The dazed-looking expression of the changing times. dressing is only known through child is wearing standard attire The rattan furniture and parasol formal painted and photographed for boys of all communities in the also announce the modernity of portraits, as in this example by nineteenth century: an o-to ( 1860s Singapore.

12 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 ineteenth-century Babas loved to layer their tops. This gentleman, photographed by August Sachtler in the 1860s wears three: a dark coloured cotton jacket, a white or light-coloured Nversion under that, and peeking from under the white jacket is a checked top of some sort. It was the fashion at that time to fasten only the topmost button of the outermost jacket, and push aside the opening of the garment to show off the second jacket. Voluminous trousers complete the look. His hair at the back of his head seems intentionally puffed-up for effect, and his tochang (also spelt towchang) or queue is visible down the back of his neck. The real fashion statement, however, is the hat on the table. King Edward VII is credited for starting the fashion for Homburgs, and Katz Brothers only began advertising them for sale in the 1890s. This Baba was clearly ahead of his time!

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14 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 erhaps the earliest look of the period, and style, with a little bonnet and photograph of Babas modern tropical adaptations lacy frock. The furniture Pin the interior of of Chinese style. Clearly it and porcelain are also a house, this image was was acceptable to leave the interesting mixes of Chinese taken by August Sachtler in top button of their jackets and colonial European. Malacca in the 1860s. Three undone. European fashions Hanging behind the colonial men, probably brothers, and can be seen not only in the glass lamp at the centre is an older relative, sit at the older gentleman’s straw a fascinating Palembang- front of the ancestral hall boater, but also in the shoes style brass chandelier. Black of their house, dressed in of the man seated on the retrievers like the one lying what is termed today, baju extreme right, who wears a at the corner were probably lokchuan. Lokchuan was Chinese style skull cap, and introduced by British strictly speaking a term for curiously, holds several stalks military officers in the mid- a kind of silk, while these of (perhaps dried) flowers. nineteenth century. gentlemen are dressed in The two older children dark-coloured, light cotton are dressed in miniature trousers, and white or cream versions of adult fashions, starched cotton or linen but the infant is dressed jackets — the smart-casual in quintessential Victorian

15 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 f eature

young boy has his tochang in the mainland, which was not enforced ( ) or queue groomed by a in the Straits Settlements. Author and A barber, photographed by August lawyer Baba Song Ong Siang cut his in Sachtler in Singapore in the 1860s. From 1898, while he was a student in London, 1644 until 1911 all Chinese males, with while Baba philanthropist and tycoon the exception of Buddhist and Daoist Tan Jiak Kim was very much against it. priests, were required to sport a queue, a In 1908 several Baba men in Malacca Manchu custom. It would seem that there held a tochang-cutting party in a rubber would have been resistance among the estate. In 1911 the revolution in China Chinese of southeast Asia to adopt this in ended this regulation, although in 1950 the mid-seventeenth century, but certainly there was still an old man in Singapore from the eighteenth to the nineteenth who refused to cut his pigtail. century this was essential Baba fashion and an intrinsic part of Baba male identity. Men were culturally lost without their tochang, until the late nineteenth century when several young modern Babas began cutting theirs, unafraid of the imperial edicts and the death penalty

16 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 feature

n his younger days Cheang Hong In this photograph taken by an Lim (1841-1893), the prominent unknown photographer after 1877 IBaba businessman and benefactor, — when the first Chinese consulate in got into a lot of trouble with the colonial Singapore was established, and titles government for trying to corner the became available for a price — Baba opium market in Singapore by ruining Hong Lim is dressed as a mandarin his rivals. He and his father had of the fourth rank, which suggests he acquired the opium franchise from the attained his higher rank some time government, and one can only imagine later. He is wearing an almost complete how such a business was run in those costume for a Chinese imperial official: days. He cleaned up his act rather summer conical court hat (chaoguan, quickly and until his untimely death ), flared shoulder collar (pi ling, was generous to friends and family and ), surcoat with rank badge (bufu, became a visionary benefactor towards ), informal dragon robe (jifu, several social and charitable causes, ). The badge (buzi, ) including donations towards the displaying his rank has a symbol construction and repair of the of a wild goose. He is not places of worship for different wearing his court necklace religions. Like many of his (chaozhu, ), and in contemporaries, he acquired his left hand is a typical Chinese imperial titles for Southeast Asian himself and his ancestors. accessory – a crumpled By the time of his death handkerchief. In this he had attained the rank case it is probably a of Ronglu Daifu ( Scottish machine- , Grandmaster for printed copy of an Glorious Happiness, Indian bandhani the second civil rank). (tie-dye) cloth.

17 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 f eature

regal moments the peranakans are received in london

ingapore’s Baba President Dr Tony Tan Keng Yam and his Above: Prince Philip, Nyonya wife, Nyonya Mary Tan were hosted by Queen Elizabeth and Mary Tan, Queen Elizabeth II and Baba President Tony Tan SThe Duke of Edinburgh, Prince Philip, while in London on Keng Yam. a state visit in October. Dr Tan highlighted the historical links Next page, left: The state between Singapore and the UK as a strong foundation for the banquet given in honour of friendship and bilateral cooperation both nations share today. President and Mrs Tony Tan. The Queen remarked that she cherished the continued deepening Next page, right: President and of ties between the United Kingdom and Singapore. Mrs Tony Tan are welcomed by Queen Elizabeth and Prince Britain’s premier science institution, the Royal Society, conferred Philip. the King Charles II medal on Dr Tan for his role in furthering Next page, bottom right:

scientific research, while the Queen, in her turn, wore the Order President Tony Tan and Queen and Majesty magazine Courtesy of the British Monarchy of Temasek sash and star which she received during her 1972 visit Elizabeth II at the state banquet. to Singapore at the state banquet that evening.

18 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 nother significant member of our community, Baba Ivan AHeng, was also in attendance at the banquet, along with Tony Trickett. Check out the photo of them in evening dress, and their invitation card. They’ve never looked more dashing!

Ivan Heng and Tony Trickett

Courtesy of the British Monarchy and Majesty magazine Courtesy of the British Monarchy in top hat and tails at Buckingham Palace. Courtesy of Ivan Heng Courtesy of Ivan

19 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 f eature

the kebaya goes to buckingham palace

arlier in October, the new High Commissioner for Singapore, EHer Excellency Foo Chi Hsia, did Peranakan culture proud when she presented her credentials to Queen Elizabeth II dressed elegantly in a sarong kebaya complete with manek heels. This photograph issued by the Palace made it to the Royals page of an online fashion/humour magazine, registering some 10,000 hits! (http://www.gofugyourself.com/royals-round- up-october-10th-2014-10-2014/credentials- presented-to-queen-elizabeth-ii-at-buckingham- palace-4). The sarong kebaya was specially designed by our own Main Committee member, Baba Raymond Wong.

Above: A regal moment with Queen Elizabeth II at Buckingham Palace on 10 October 2014.

Left: High Commissioner Foo Chi Hsia feeds a horse enroute to meet the Queen. Courtesy of the British Monarchy.

20 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 and closer to home...

inspecting the troops his contrasting shot of the kebaya amidst a parade of fatigues, although taken two years ago, recently went its rounds on facebook to favourable reviews. The captivating moment Ttook place on 21 September, 2012, when Mrs Josephine Teo, Senior Minister of State for Finance and Transport, presented a picture of femininity in her sarong kebaya as she inspected a Combined Arms Specialist Cadet Graduation Parade at Pasir Laba Camp.

21 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 chakap c hakap growing up baba Gavin Gareth Chan Bryan Tan Gavin is passionate about everything A CELTA-certified English to do with community and culture. He teacher, Bryan freelances as a is active in grassroots work and began tutor. Bryan maintains a close helping out at our association for the relationship with his relatives in Peranakan F Malacca and may just treat you to he also wroteestival a report in 2009 covering where the durians from his grandmother’s Festival for this magazine. Gavin has plantation if you ask nicely! He graciously agreed to play a key role as joins our magazine team and is a liaison between the association and also our new writer for Chakap various community organisations. Habis - turn to the back of this are fortunate to have him on the Main magazine to check out his article. Committee. We

The Peranakan Magazine (TPM): I think many of us first felt that we were different when we interacted with our peers at school. Do you have any memories to share?

Bryan: I knew I was different from a very young age. My maternal grandmother who still lives in Malacca was a huge influence – she speaks patois and in true matriarchal style, “imposed” her presence everywhere she went. I’ve lived in Katong for over 20 years, and studied at Maris Stella Primary School, which has Catholic roots. So I’ve had the benefit of some elements of “Peranakan-ness”, but also tempered with the more “Chinese” roots from my father, who is Hainanese.

Raymond: I first studied at Kuo Chuan Presbyterian Primary School and the medium of instruction was English, but then transferred to

The young babas. From left: Raymond, Bryan, Emeric (for TPM), Zan and Gavin.

22 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 Younger Babas reflect on their Peranakan identity in contemporary Singapore

so focussed on education, growing up baba productivity and being “modern” that they didn’t pick up many skills Zan Ho from their parents, and now the Zan lives and breathes food. younger generation is becoming Raymond Wong His family run Dulukala, a aware of this generation gap that Peranakan restaurant. His Raymond is no stranger to we have to cross in order to access formative years were spent in our members. He majored in our roots. the kitchen where he picked Accounting and Finance and is a up a love of cooking from his Raymond: We can take a two- Director of Rumah Kim Choo. His mother. This third-generation pronged approach. First, at home, love for art, however, has propelled him to become renowned for his Baba has since launched his families have to start consciously skills at embroidery and creating own eatery, O’nya Sayang, at transmitting culture to their customised kebayas. Raymond Tampines. Zan is a new Main children, and then at school, is passionate about respectfully Committee member. Check programmes can be implemented interpreting Peranakan culture for a out his recipes for a great to make students more culturally contemporary audience. He joins us Peranakan-inspired meal in aware. as a new Main Committee member. this issue’s Dalam Dapor. TPM: Peranakan culture is in fact a good entry-point since it contains elements of Singapore’s different cultures. In fact, another Kong Hwa (founded by Tan Lark They’ll say, “This is the food I ate at one of our new Main Committee Sye), which is a Hokkien Huay home growing up…” members is Kevin Aeria, and he Kuan-managed school where the is both Peranakan and Eurasian emphasis on Mandarin was strong. Gavin: But do they complain that and will be our coordinator for any Language problems aside, I was it’s still different from their mom’s events that involve both TPAS and able to relate well as the value cooking? the Eurasian Association, of which system in a Peranakan family and he is also a member. those of Chinese culture align quite Zan: Oh, always! well. All my brothers also entered Gavin: It wasn’t a conscious Kong Hua, so we have a great Gavin: That’s the thing about thing back in the old days – all the appreciation of the more Chinese Peranakan food – every family’s ladies, irrespective of race, would elements in Peranakan culture. recipes are different. don kebayas without thinking, Nonetheless, we often failed at “This is or isn’t my culture…” Zan: Actually, this is a problem Mandarin! that’s facing our culture. None of TPM: So it is our responsibility Gavin: Yes, all of us relied on the family recipes were written now to document the culture – one tuition! (Nods all round.) down. way is to write down what we can, such as recipes. TPM: Let’s turn to another area Bryan: My family totally lost that we all love – food! Zan, maybe the skill of cooking for a bit. My Raymond: We can also take you can tell us how you started grandmother didn’t “impose” any a leaf from other countries. since this is your passion… recipes upon my mother; instead, Besides museums, culture can she encouraged my mom to study actually be a profitable resource. Zan: I like to go marketing and and called her a bookworm. So The Koreans, for example, have then experiment in the kitchen. my mom didn’t bother learning interpreted the silhouette of a I’ve had about five years’ worth to cook. When our maid left, my hanbok into a tight bandeau that of experimenting…fine-tuning all mom started cooking some Chinese flares out with a bubble skirt! It is the Peranakan recipes for myself, dishes that my dad preferred – new, but recognisably Korean in before I started O’nya Sayang. At simpler to prepare than Peranakan terms of shape. Why can’t younger the restaurant, it is also heartening dishes, I’m sure! Peranakans do the same with our to see more young people nowadays rich material culture? who proclaim their Peranakan Gavin: I think many of our identity, and they in turn bring their families face the same problem. Gavin: Definitely. It is our job to friends along for a hearty meal. Our parents’ generation were evolve and forge a way forward.

23 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 chakap c hakap a peranakan new year euchari stic celebration Celebrating Peranakan Mass at the Church of the Holy Family in Katong

everend Fr Damian De Wind felt from a very young age that God had a purpose for him. He wrote in the Roman Catholic publication of the RSerra Club of Singapore, ‘Called & Chosen’: “… when I was in secondary school (St Patrick’s)...I knew deep down in my heart God had a mission plan for me.” Father Damian was raised by prayerful and devout Catholic parents. His maternal grandmother was a nyonya and grandfather was from England. As a young boy born and raised in the Telok Kurau neighbourhood, he learnt to speak patois from his mother, aunties and uncles. He also learnt to cook dishes like buah keluak, kueh paiti and other Peranakan food. Father Damian does not have time nowadays to cook his favourite Peranakan dishes. He is one of three priests in the Church of The Holy Family at Chapel Road, off East Coast Road, ministering to a parish of over 8,500 parishioners. Baba Colin Chee and Nyonya Linda Chee met up with Father Damian (FD) recently to talk about the Peranakan Mass, in an interview with the Peranakan Magazine (TPM). TPM: Fr Damian, how many Roman Catholic churches in Singapore celebrate Peranakan Mass? FD: Holy Family is today the only Roman Catholic church in Singapore which conducts the Mass Sambot Kepala Taon Baru (Peranakan Mass), always on the Eve of the Lunar New Year. This tradition was started here about 32 years ago by the late Father Alfred Chan, a Baba, who was then the parish priest at Holy Family. Before Father Chan was called to the Lord in June 2013, Blessed Sacrament Church at Commonwealth Drive in Queenstown also celebrated Peranakan Mass only at Easter. After he passed on, it stopped. At Holy Family, however, by default, been a decline in the number decline in numbers. In fact, it I took over the Chinese New Year of worshippers? may be growing along with the Eve Mass from Fr Chan. I was FD: We start the Peranakan Mass rest of the church. Holy Family’s assisting him at the time as I could at 11 pm on New Year’s Eve so catechism classes alone has about speak Baba Malay. Now I hope to that by midnight we all get to sing 850 children and youth. There is get another Peranakan priest to Auld Lang Syne and conclude with also catechism classes taught by celebrate the Mass with me. There the blessing and distribution of Baba Andrew Goh in bahasa, Baba are a few Peranakan priests – oranges. We have not changed Malay and dialects to the elderly. Fr Ignatius Yeo, Fr Adrian Yeo, Fr this format, which is also closely Valerian Cheong and Fr Jacob tied in to our Liturgy. Every TPM: How is the Mass Ong, to name a few. There is also year, we have consistently had celebrated? Fr Bernard Wee. But he is now between 500 to 600 people. Always FD: We have a Peranakan group studying in Rome. a mix of Peranakans and even called the Kompolan Peranakan Eurasians. Holy Family is made up Gereja Holy Family that organises TPM: How many people in of predominantly Eurasians and the Mass. The group provides a total attend this very special Peranakans. They understand or choir, the organist, the choir master New Year Eve’s Peranakan even speak bahasa and Baba Malay. and plans the celebration right Mass every year? Has there So, there has been no observed down to setting up the traditional

24 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 a peranakan new year euchari stic celebration

Peranakan prayer altar. This altar has two tall red candles supported on two Chinese brass candle stands, a chanap (used in important ceremonies such as weddings and Chinese New Year prayers) as the centre piece, fruits like the banana which symbolizes abundance and pomelos which, pronounced in Chinese sounds like “again”. At the end of the mass, we sing popular songs which have been revised to give a flavour of the occasion. For example, Rasa Sayang Eh! was adapted to become Rasa Sayang Selamat Taon Baru, and many more.

TPM: What would be the typical age and gender profiles of Holy Family’s congregation? FD: There is a balanced age and gender profile. Culturally, this has not changed much from the predominantly Eurasian and Peranakan parishioners to ethnic Chinese and Indians and many others. I have served for about three years and our daily morning 6.15 am congregation has always been about 90 to 100 people. Evenings are more crowded. While we have the once-a-year Peranakan follow the same Liturgy except all use joss sticks and candles in Mass on Chinese New Year’s Eve, the language and the liturgical their premises. In Singapore it is we have weekly Masses in other environment, for example, the more difficult because we are a languages like Indonesian, Tagalog, traditional prayer altar. very multi-racial congregation. Korean, French and German, to name a few in our other churches. TPM: Are the Peranakan TPM: Do you see a future for congregation more pantang Holy Family’s Peranakan Mass? TPM: Why have a Peranakan than the others that the FD : Yes, as long as we see parents Mass at all? church has to be more or grandparents bringing their FD: The Catholic Church has sensitive to? children or grandchildren to the always been inclusive. Embracing FD: No lah. But other non- Mass. Many of them proudly wear the local culture is part of our Peranakans seem more pantang. their sarong kebayas and batik inculturalisation process. We learn Like not having the funeral on shirts. I do feel therefore that the the customs of the local people the even days, for example, the Mass will carry on and it won’t and try to Christianise them. 4th day and not having weddings be so jelak(surfeit) because we The language of worship may be during the 7th or ghost month. do not have it every week. And different but always, always, the Catholics, Peranakans or Chinese, with Baba Peter Wee’s (who is Liturgy is the same. we can also burn joss sticks President of The Peranakan when showing respect to their Association Singapore) beautiful TPM: How different is the ancestors. We make a distinction Peranakan treasures used for Peranakan patois Mass from between showing respect versus Mass as part of our worship to the normal English language worshipping. Some of our our Lord, it lends the Peranakan Mass? Catholic churches in Hong Kong, Mass a more authentic and real FD: No difference really. They both Taiwan, South Korea and Vietnam Peranakan atmosphere.

25 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 dalam dapor all in the family Baba Zan Ho is a young Peranakan cook with a mission Photographs by Colin Chee. Food styling by Linda Chee. styling by Food Colin Chee. Photographs by

26 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 started cooking because my grandmother and mother opened Dulukala restaurant at Beauty World Centre in 1999, when I was 17 years old. I was I helping around the restaurant and became very interested in learning more. The ingredients, methods, taste and all the skills required to get a good dish on the table fascinated me. Learning the basics of good cooking is very important. I was taught everything I needed to know in great detail and it has allowed me to create my own variations of Peranakan-inspired dishes. I think Peranakan food and cooking are amazing because we have the influence of so many different cultures. Peranakan cooking bundles a wide range of ingredients and techniques into one cuisine. The art is very tough to learn, but the returns make it all worthwhile. I freely admit I still have a long, long way to go before getting anywhere near as good as my mother and grandmother! I am still persevering. Since taking over the restaurant business in 2008, after graduating from university, I have been fully committed to running our restaurants. While Dulukala serves traditional cuisine, O’nya Sayang at Tampines Mall has more fusion Peranakan fare. We are opening another O’nya Sayang at Paya Lebar Square in November. Work is seven days a week, 12 hours a day! There is Zan Ho, 31, likes to create dishes little time for anything else. My mornings are spent in the office on business with a Peranakan twist. administration while evenings require all hands on deck to man the outlets. I make it a point to be very involved in the kitchen. My priority is to maintain food quality and also invest some time in culinary experimentation. I am inspired by many different kinds of food including Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Burmese and Thai. I try to listen and understand the palates of the younger generation. Knowing what they like means I can create dishes with a Peranakan twist to match. It will always be my goal to spread Peranakan culture to the young. The easiest way to do that is to first attract them through food. In this mission, we have to succeed or the culture will fade away. Here are some contemporary Peranakan-inspired recipes that I hope readers would enjoy trying out at home. Except for Chendol ice cream, none of the others are in our menus!

Keluak Fried Rice 35g belachan Asam Pedas (Sour and 1 tbsp keluak paste (see below) 10g sugar Spicy) with Crab Tang 1 tbsp sambal belachan (see below) 1 chilli padi (bird’s eye chilli) Hoon (Vermicelli) 3 tbsp oil 300g rempah (see below) 1 egg, beaten Method 6 tbsp cooking oil 1 handful fresh prawns Soak the buah keluak for at 20g asam (tamarind) paste, mixed 1 tsp minced garlic least 3 days to soften the flesh with 1 litre of water 2 cupfuls cooked rice inside. Break open the keluak 5 pieces asam skin 1 chicken breast, boiled and nut and scoop out the flesh. 2 -3 lemo perot (leprous lime) shredded Grind the flesh with the sugar leaves, sliced finely ½ handful cubed onions and prawns. 1 tbsp sliced bunga kantan (torch 1 red and 1 green chilli, sliced Grind the sambal belachan ginger flower) ½ tsp salt ingredients into a paste. 5 tbsp sugar 1 tbsp soya sauce Mix the keluak paste with the 1 tbsp salt Spring onions and parsley, for sambal belachan and set aside. 6 ladies fingers, sliced broadly garnish Heat the oil in a wok and stir fry 1 brinjal, sliced into segments the egg quickly. Add the prawns, 1 Sri Lankan crab, steamed for Keluak paste garlic, rice, shredded chicken 7-8 minutes 1 kg buah keluak and keluak paste and mix well. 1 handful tang hoon (vermicelli) 50g sugar Stir in the onions and sliced soaked till soft in cold water 50g fresh prawns chillies. Add the salt and soya sauce. Garnish with chopped Rempah (ground spice paste) Sambal belachan spring onions and Chinese 1 kg shallots 80g sun-dried fresh red chillies parsley and serve. 100g garlic Photographs by Colin Chee. Food styling by Linda Chee. styling by Food Colin Chee. Photographs by

27 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 dalam dapor

75g belachan 500g lengkuas (blue ginger) 75g serai (lemon grass) 80g buah keras (candlenut) 45g ginger 150g dried chilli powder

Method Grind the rempah ingredients, except for the dried chilli powder, finely into a paste. Heat the oil in a wok and cook the rempah over low heat for 1 hour. Add the chilli powder, mix well and continue cooking over low heat for another half an hour. Set aside. To prepare the asam pedas sauce, remove the asam seeds from the water. Add 100g of cooked rempah and mix well. Add the asam skin and the lemo perot leaves. Bring the mixture to boil and add the bunga kantan, sugar and salt to taste. Add the ladies fingers and brinjal. Boil the mixture for about 10 minutes till fragrant. Transfer the crab from the steamer to a plate and spread the softened tang hoon over the crab. Pour the asam sauce over the crab. Serve immediately.

Chendol Ice cream and top off with one Cream tbsp of chendol and kidney Gula Melaka (palm sugar) beans. Drizzle with one syrup tbsp of gula Melaka. Serve Rich coconut ice cream immediately. Chendol (green rice flour jelly noodles) Bandung Ice Boiled kidney beans Cream Soda Method Rose syrup Melt the gula Melaka Ice cream soda in a little water over a Vanilla ice cream slow fire. Leave to cool Method completely or chill in the Mix one part rose syrup refrigerator. This can be with six parts soda in a tall prepared in advance. You glass. Add ice and top off can buy the fresh chendol with one scoop of vanilla from the wet market. ice cream. Add more ice In a glass bowl, put cream to make it a float. one scoop of coconut ice Serve immediately.

28 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 theatre baba sedia! (attention!) Baba Bryan Tan spends an evening with the Peranakan Siblings

The chorus and the cast of Anak Mak Satu.

nak Mak Satu is a quaint, tongue-in-cheek out a stronger man, both physically and mentally. production. It touches on the perennial Performed mainly in English, the scenes issues of single-child families and their showcased a smattering of patois dialogue and particularlyA Singaporean struggle when the boy has to featured musical numbers performed by the enlist into National Service (NS). Peranakan Siblings Chorus. Irene Ong is resplendent The story centres on a fiery matriarch, Nya Nellie as the matriarch with her commanding demeanour (Irene Ong), her only son Jason (Ivan Choong) and and is well flanked by her younger sisters, supporting their relatives. There is much actresses Ko Besair (Eldest worry during Chinese New Aunty, played by Irene Ooi) Year, which falls just before and Ko Kechik (Youngest Aunty, Jason’s enlistment. Nellie’s played by Jasmine Koh). Apart relatives wonder if Jason from the Chorus, actor Ivan will survive the harsh army Choong also showed off his training and continue the classical training and singing family legacy. They debate chops. all manner of ways to ‘pull However, it was Bibik Lemak strings’ or come up with (Francis Hogan) who stole excuses to prevent Jason the show as a befuddled bibik from enlisting, in the process selling nasi lemak with her displaying the typical gelek buntot (sashaying) and ignorance of older folk who bimbotic one-liners, along know nothing about NS. Nya Nellie (middle), with her sisters Ko Kechik (left) with Yati (Reggie), Nya Nellie’s Desperate to ensure the and Ko Besair. gregarious maid, who took every future of the eldest sister’s family, the younger opportunity to punctuate dialogues with satirical relatives of Nya Nellie seek out a quack fortune teller, jibes. Chris Lim, who plays Susan, Jason’s rather curiously named International (Sharon Frese) and large and immature younger cousin, also added much her partner-in-crime Francis (Joe Moereira) to divine comedic punch to the cast. Jason’s fate in the army and if he would be able to Anak Mak Satu is a convivial show which is sure to survive it. The show culminates in the scene where pique the interest of non-Peranakan viewers as well Jason is visited by his grandmother’s ghost, who as remind the current generation of Peranakans of assures him that she is confident of his ability to come their rich and colourful heritage.

29 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 theatre of heartbreak and healing Baba Bryan Tan experiences an evening of emotions at Biji Mata Mak

t is a real treat to have granny over Ifrom Malacca. So I decided to spend quality time with her. And what better way to foster bonding than to attend a Peranakan play, just bibik and her chuchu? Mama has a rather awkward tendency of falling asleep in odd places, and I desperately hoped she would not start snoring

The 25-year-old for her son in Kuala Lumpur on family drama, written by Baba Henry Tan, the pretext of finding a job. The makes a return to the action reaches a climax when Bong stage in an adaptation by Baba Frederick Soh Neo is hired as a cook and maid (standing, third from in the house of her son’s in-laws, left). The play was who are immensely wealthy. Freddy directed by Tony Quek (fourth from left). eventually discovers her presence and throws a massive fit, casting her Left: The drama follows the plight of out of the house. the beleaguered Bibik Distraught and overwhelmed, Bong Neo (in picture, Bong Neo returns to Singapore to left), played with much pathos by Kelvin Tan. live with her former help, Ah Foon. loudly in the middle of a scene in Biji Mata Mak, Bong Neo’s sisters-in-law (Cynthia produced by the Gunong Sayang Association. It was Lee, Audrey Tan and Christina Wee) discover her plight, written by Baba Henry Tan 25 years ago and adapted by and chastise Freddy when he comes to visit for Chinese Baba Frederick Soh for this latest GSA play. New Year. They manage to guilt him into reconciling with I spent much of the time craning my neck trying to his long-suffering stepmother, who by then has become read the subtitles while the scenes played out. Granny blind from grief, resulting in a tearful union for the however, enjoyed the show immensely while watching entire family. the cast deliver their lines in fluent patois. With much pathos, Biji Mata Mak captures the Centered on Bibik Bong Neo (Kelvin Tan), the play idiosyncrasies and foibles of a Peranakan household explores the struggles of a beleaguered Peranakan - right down to the lingo and mannerisms, giving the stepmother and her ingrate son, set in post-war play an intimate and authentic feel. The sets accurately Singapore. Bibik Bong Neo’s beloved stepson Freddy depicted the post-war period, sliding in and out is getting married, and she secretively gets her ditzy seamlessly between scenes. household helper, Ah Foon (Lee Yong Meng), to go to the Kelvin shines in his role as matriarch Bibik Bong pawnshop to exchange her jewelry for money in order Neo, alongside cast members Yong Meng as Ah Foon to fund the wedding. The pawning of jewelry then was and Matthew Chen as Ah Mui, who provided superb frowned upon as ‘losing face’, especially by wealthier comedic relief. Nya Besair, Nya Bong Soo and Nya relatives, and was only done as a last resort. Tengah (Cynthia, Audrey and Christina) executed the However, Freddy (Eugene Tay) proceeds with his roles of assertive and kaypoh matriarchs perfectly, and wedding without Bong Neo’s involvement and abruptly Agnes (Adriana Tanubrata) was a delightful breath of moves from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur with his wife fresh air with her vibrant acting chops. Swee Neo (Ameline Goh), angered that his mother Exiting the Drama Centre, I asked Mama if she was unable to cough up the sum of $10,000 which he enjoyed the play, relieved she had stayed awake. She requested. bobbed her head slightly, which I took to be a yes, Bong Neo finds herself in a desperate situation: before whispering in my ear, “You are Mama’s biji mata, Abandoned, she sells the house and departs to search know or not?”

30 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 books there was a peranakan woman who lived in a shoe Baba Colin Chee takes delight in this book of rhymes by Gwen Lee

his is a colourful book of 14 well- illustrated and localised nursery rhymes. TThey may all sound strangely familiar to you. But that is because author Gwen Lee has cleverly adapted into Singapore’s cultural vernacular, traditional English rhymes that I learnt to recite as a primary school boy when children in Singapore sang God Save the Queen at assembly! The most obviously Peranakan adaptation is her interpretation of the Old Woman Who Lived in a Shoe…. “ She made so many nyonya kueh, She didn’t know what to do…” Amusing rhymes indeed, with stunning and interestingly detailed illustrations by Cheryl Kook, to keep your kids, and even you, glued to the pages from cover to cover. Published by Epigram. Available at good bookstores.

31 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 events ikebana goes peranakan Baba Emeric Lau gets some floral flair

he black-and-white Different schools teach different styles of Ikebana. bungalow that houses the In Singapore, the members and teachers are largely TJapan Creative Centre was from the Sogetsu, Ohara, Ikenobo, Ryusei-Ha and recently transformed into a small Ichiyo schools. Peranakan gallery complete with antique lacquer-ware, pottery, costumes, beautiful sarongs, beaded shoes, belts, batik and furniture. These items created a special ambience for the 5-day Ikebana exhibition organised by Japan Creative Centre (a wing of the Embassy of Japan) in collaboration with Ikebana International Singapore Chapter 135 (IISC135). Ikebana is the Japanese art of flower arranging and IISC135 is one of over 200 chapters of Ikebana International, Tokyo that promotes the art of Ikebana through its motto “friendship through flowers”.

32 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 events a trip through time Baba Kevin Aeria finds his Peranakan and Eurasian roots in Malacca

ome 40 Peranakans and Eurasians came the word kebaya originated from cabaya, a Portuguese together for the first time to embark garment for women. More than a century ago, they Son a journey to find our common roots in were mostly deep blue and decorated with lace and Malacca from 15 to 17 August, 2014, organized by our embroidery. The Peranakans adapted and made their respective associations. kebayas very colourful, which has become iconic of Visiting the Portuguese Settlement on the second the culture. day was exciting. The Malacca Portuguese Eurasian The dishes at lunch at the settlement revealed Association (MPEA) President, Michael Singho, more commonalities. These included the chicken brought us around the settlement to give an insight dish the Eurasians call curry debal (devil); the braised into the lifestyle of the residents there. He explained pork delicacy called sebak; sambal binagri, which is the phases the houses went through from time the fried cincaru fish, another Peranakan favourite; and Portuguese arrived in the 15th century to the present kangkong lemak with sweet potatoes. day. From wood to brick, living standards improved We were fortunate to have good weather while through time. walking through the village, meeting and greeting During the trip, we realised the Eurasians and the the friendly locals living there. Our group had a Peranakans share many similar traits. For example, very comfortable stay at the new King’s Green Hotel where we attended the Melodians’ Charity Outreach Dinner & Dance. This joint trip organized by the Eurasian Association and The Peranakan Association Singapore is only the first. We plan for more joint events in the future.

The group in Malacca. Front row: To the right of TPAS President Peter Wee is the Malacca Portuguese Eurasian Association (MPEA) President, Michael Singho. who is a chetti melaka? BAbA David Bok reports on the first Chetti Melaka Symposium

he Association of Chetti Melaka Kim representing the Chinese Peranakans, Farish (Peranakan Indian) Singapore held its Noor of the Jawi Peranakans, VP Nair from GOPIO first symposium at the Ngee Ann Auditorium, (Global Organisation of People of Indian Origin), and T K Narayanasamy from Malaysia, author of the first Asia Civilizations Museum on Saturday 4 October. The symposum’s theme “The Lost Tribe of Chetti sociological study of the community done in 1967. Melaka - Who Are We?” was introduced with a short Gerald Pillay, the keynote presenter, proposed that Chetti Melaka history by Ryna Mahindapala, a young a person is a Chetti Melaka because he is born or teacher. It was followed by a discussion on challenges adopted into the Chetti Melaka community. He also faced by other diaspora communities, led by Lee Su added that while all Chetti Melaka are Peranakan Indians, not all Peranakan Indians are Chetti Melaka. The core features of the community are its Tamil ancestry, mixed Indian-Malay-Chinese ancestry, and its origin in Malacca. Three The event attracted a full other variable features are its social crowd of local customs, Hindu religion and Malay culture lovers mother tongue. including officials from the National There are about 50 Chetti Melaka Heritage Board families in Malacca, another 50 in as well as overseas the rest of West Malaysia, mainly in participants from Kuala Lumpur, and 50 in Singapore. Malacca, Kuala Lumpur and A few more live in Australia, the US Perth. and Canada.

33 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 noticeboard

peranakan associations in the region

SINGAPORE ([email protected]) Contact: Cedric Tan, Hon Secretary INDONESIA The Peranakan Association Singapore 2.) Lee Yuen Thien, Hon.Secretary Email: [email protected] Association of Peranakan Tionghoa (TPAS) ([email protected]) Tel: +6012-3151451 Indonesia Raffles City PO Box 1640, Facebook: Persatuan Peranakan Cina Website: peranakan-kl.org Hero Building II Suite 902, Singapore 911755 Malaysia To contact the President, Jl. Jend. Gatot Subroto 177A Contact: Peter Wee, President Dr Lee Su Kim, please email sukim25@ Kav. 64 Jakarta 12870, Indonesia Email: [email protected] Persatuan Peranakan Cina Melaka yahoo.com. Contact: Chairman Mr Andrew Susanto Tel: 65 6345 8544 (PPCM) Tel +6221 8317751 Website: peranakan.org.sg 149, Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock (Heeren KELANTAN Fax +6221 8317731 Street), 75200 Melaka Association of Peranakan Chinese, Email: [email protected] Gunong Sayang Association (GSA) Contact: Ms Chin Siok Hoon, PJK (Hon Kelantan Website: aspertina.org 50 Lorong 24A, Geylang Road, Secretary) Lot 2344 Kampong Wakaf Stan, Kubang Singapore 398574 Email: [email protected] Kerian, AUSTRALIA Email: [email protected] Website: www.ppcm-melaka.org 16150 Kota Bharu, Kelantan, Malaysia MELBOURNE Fax: 65 6441 1569 Tel: 012 6218 909 Contact: Law Awang Peranakan Association Website: gunongsayang.com Fax: 06 2837 215 Tel: 609-7652261 Mobile: 012-9815688 Australia Inc To contact the President, Datuk Phua Email: [email protected] P.O. Box 1278, Hawksburn, Victoria, Association of Chetti Melaka Jin Hock, please email phuajh@gmail. Australia 3142 (Peranakan Indians) Singapore com. Contacts: Joseph Then, Secretary, at 5001 Beach Road #08-09 THAILAND Thai Peranakan Association email [email protected] Golden Mile Complex PENANG or Ivy Lee Gek Kim, newsletter editor, at Singapore 199588 State Chinese (Penang) Association 61 Satul Road, Muang District, Phuket 83000, Thailand email [email protected]. Contact: Mr Pono Kalastree / Persatuan Peranakan Cina Pulau Website: www.peranakan.org.au. Office: 6297 1229 Pinang Contacts: Dr Kosol Taenguthai at Mobile: 9678 1767 13, Perak Road email: [email protected]; Ajan Pranee Sakulpipatana at email: SYDNEY President: Datuk Tan Gin Soon Peranakan Association Australia (PAA) MALAYSIA Contact: 604-2269560 [email protected], mobile: +66 81 693 3576; or Piyarat Kulvanich at email: NSW Inc MALACCA Email: [email protected] P O Box 3810, Marsfield, Persatuan Peranakan Cina Malaysia [email protected] or mobile: +66 81 719 0967. NSW 2122 Australia (PERANAKAN) KUALA LUMPUR & SELANGOR Contact: Evelyn Tan, President 243, Jalan Tengkera, Persatuan Peranakan Baba Fax: +66 76 258179 Tel: +66 76 258124 Website: peranakanaustralia.org 75200 Melaka. Nyonya Kuala Lumpur & Selangor Email: [email protected] Office: 06-2832202 (PPBNKLS) Website: Thaiperanakan.com Fax: 06-2832202 63 Jalan Telawi, Bangsar Baru, 59100, Contacts: 1.) Ronald Gan, President Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

WELCOME

A warm welcome to our new members! 1. Mrs Jenny 7. Mdm Leow Chin ChewWong Ying Lee 2. Ms Choy Sui-Lan 8. Mr Loo Kiang Hong 3. Ms Hee Yoke Chee 9. Mdm Elena Ng 4. Ms Jennifer Hoe 10. Mrs Yvonne Gladys 5. Mdm Angela Kek Oliveiro 6. Mdm Catherine 11. Mr Eugene LA Tan Khoo 12. Ms Joanne Zhang

UPDATING MEMBERS’ DETAILS

TPAS is updating all members’ mailing addresses and contact details to enable efficient delivery of the magazine and to keep members informed of coming events. Do expect a call from an association representative for the update. Better still, we would greatly appreciate if you could kindly send an email to the Secretariat at [email protected]. Please indicate your name as per membership/ gender / current address / telephone contact and email address. Thank You!

34 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 directory

THE PERANAKAN GUIDE • SINGAPORE MUSEUMS arising from the terraced Peranakan Museum. See the world’s first collaboration of two houses. The national Peranakan Museum with the most contemporary artists, latter can comprehensive and Samantha Tio (Mintio) still be seen finest collection of and Budi Agung in a walk Peranakan artefacts. Kuswara (Kabul), and along Koon The boutique batik makers of the Sido Seng Road. museum examines Luhur group from the Also visit the centres of central Javanese village Peranakan Peranakan culture of Kebon Indah. From shops such as Katong Antique House in Malacca, Penang 27 September to end- (208 East Coast Road) and Rumah Bebe and Singapore, January 2015. (113 East Coast Road) as well as the great and traces its links to as far as Indonesia, variety of Peranakan restaurants in the Myanmar and Thailand. Asian Civilisations Museum. The first neighbourhood. http://www.visitsingapore. Auspicious Designs: Batik for museum in the region to display a wide com/publish/stbportal/en/home/what_to_ Peranakan Altars range of artefacts from across Asia, the see/suburban_living/katong.html. A special exhibition ACM not surprisingly has some important Also http://www.myjoochiat.com. featuring highlights Peranakan treasures. The Mary and of a collection of Philbert Chin Gallery has some lavish Amoy Street and Telok Ayer Street. batik tokwis, or examples of gold jewellery, sireh boxes One of the first Peranakan enclaves, now altar cloths, from and other paraphernalia, some encrusted occupied by restaurants and offices. Many a recent donation with diamonds, and fine batik textiles from Peranakans from Malacca moved to this by Matthew and the north coast of Java, all made for the area as soon as the East India Company Alice Yapp. – From Peranakan market. began to lease out land for sale. 10 April 2014 to 25 January 2015. The Peranakan Museum. Sun Yat Sen Nanyang Memorial Hall Thian Hock Keng. The oldest Hokkien 39 Armenian Street, Singapore 179941. The old Sun Yat Sen Villa reopened in temple in Singapore was founded in website:www.peranakanmuseum.sg October 2011 after extensive renovations 1821 although the present structure, built Email: [email protected] with a new name. Fitting tribute is given to without nails, was completed only in 1841. Tel: 6332 7591. the former owners of the house, especially The temple Teo Eng Hock, a son of Teo Lee, one of the is dedicated National Museum of Singapore. The pioneer Teochew merchants in Singapore, to Mazu, museum’s Singapore History Gallery together with his nephew Lim Nee Soon, the Daoist pays tribute to the contributions of the were among the loyal supporters of Sun goddess of pioneering Peranakans. On view are Yat Sen’s bid the sea and some outstanding artefacts, including to overthrow protector the oil portrait of Lim Boon Keng, the Qing of all old photographs, jewellery and sireh government. seamen. Many of the temple’s patrons sets, as well as the magnificent carved The were Peranakan pioneers, such as Tan wood hearse of Tan Jiak Kim, which is exhibition Tock Seng, who donated $30,000 for considered one of the 11 Treasures of shows how renovations. He also founded the hospital the National Museum. National Museum Singapore, named after him. of Singapore, 93 Stamford Road, Tel: and the Chinese community here played The Hokkien Huay Kuan, a community 63323659, Opening Hours: 10am to 6pm an important part in this pivotal moment organisation for Hokkien people in Daily (Singapore History Gallery), 10am of world history. Intimate photos of Singapore was housed at the temple and to 9pm Daily (Singapore Living Galleries), family life, and of Teo Eng Hock’s nyonya also helmed by Peranakan pioneers. Thian Admission $10 (adults), $5 (senior mother, Mrs Teo Lee née Tan Poh Neo Hock Keng, 158 Telok Ayer Street, citizens above 60), $5 (students, Nsmen), (granddaughter of the kapitan of Muntok), Tel: 6423 4616. Free admission to the Singapore Living add charm and a Peranakan angle to the Galleries from 6pm to 9pm. experience. 12 Tai Gin Road, Singapore Tan Si Chong Su. Built in 1878, Tan Si http://nationalmuseum.sg. 327874, Tel: 6256 7377, Opening Hours: Chong Su is the ancestral temple of the 10am-5pm daily. Tan clan, and was founded by prominent Baba House. This Website: wanqingyuan.org.sg. Baba philanthropists Tan Kim Ching, son heritage house goes of Tan Tock Seng, and Tan Beng Swee, the back in time to 1928. LANDMARKS son of Tan Experience what a Blair Plain. A typical Peranakan Kim Seng. grand Peranakan residential area around Spottiswoode Park, The first terraced house Blair Road and Neil Road which is worth president of would have been like. a stroll. Visit Guan Antiques nearby at the temple, Formerly owned by Kampong Bahru Road, a treasure trove of Tan Kim the Wee family (whose Peranakan heirlooms. http://www.arch.nus. Tian, was a ancestor Wee Bin was edu.sg/SOA/design_studio/dds2b/blair/ well-known a mid-19th century study/Blair.html. Baba shipping tycoon. The temple consists shipping magnate) of shrines for the ancestral tablets of Tan since 1910. 157 Neil Emerald Hill Road. Another interesting residential district showcasing the best of clansmen, as well as altars to the clan Road, Singapore. Tel: 62275731. Visits are deities. The elaborate stone and wood by guided tours. Please call the house for eclectic Peranakan residential architecture, just off Orchard Road. carvings as well as the swooping ceramic details. http://www.nus.edu.sg/museum/ roof finials makes this one of the most baba/index.html Katong and Joo Chiat. Once the nerve elaborate Chinese temples in Singapore, centre of Peranakan life in Singapore. In quaintly located amid the gleaming towers Kebon Indah. This exhibition presents its heyday it was the site of nearby grand of the financial district. Tan Si Chong Su, the Malam Di Jari Kita series of artworks seaside villas and elaborate Peranakan 15 Magazine Road.

35 | ISSUE 4 • 2014 chakap habis the life cycle of a baba Baba Bryan Tan peeks in on the Yeows…

t forty eight years of age, Willie Yeow was quite a Anormal Baba, perhaps in the most traditional sense. He was faithful to his wife, unlike his friends, who were usually never satisfied with just one. Maybe he could have had, but being the chief clerk in Telekom did not afford him much leisure or money to pursue much else other than the occasional game of gin rummy. He went to church assiduously; twice a week on weekends and during weekday lunch hours for afternoon mass when his work load permitted it. He would often chant his trademark refrain to his wife: God is good, but only as long as you attended mass! He often thought fondly of his younger days, when his father was also a civil servant of impeccable standing, and the times when he had to hide the family jewels and outside and make yourself useful, Ah Kor Hock’s wedding lah, you heirlooms from his mother, a most feed the fish! Mampus (die) lah, look so much nicer in that.” prolific cherki gambler, to prevent he’s still half naked...” In the time Willie had gone to her from pawning them off to Molly clucked her tongue as change, the table was laid. Chap satisfy her most uncatholic-like she doled out snack boxes on chai, ayam buah keluak, sambal urges. the living room table, adjusted timun, babi pongteh and a veritable Just the thought of it made him the lace doilies and flapped off host of other Peranakan dishes sat reach for his rosary, may her soul to the kitchen to fetch a pot of on the groaning teakwood table rest in eternal peace. The only sayor lodeh (vegetables in coconut top. Willie stared at himself in a reason why the valuable antiques, gravy) to set on the dining table. side mirror and started applying including kamchengs and chupus Perhaps it was only him, but handfuls of his default Code 10 hair remain proudly on display was babas tend to slow down when cream with a comb. because of his sheer instinct for their wives open their mouths. Molly critically eyed his slicked survival, being the eldest of fifteen His favourite chair was like the back hair and billowy pants in children. banana leaf to an ang ku kueh; between ladling out spoonfuls of His blissful reminiscences were the moment he left it he would itek tim. ‘You look like an orang abruptly cut off. “WILLIE! Grand remain stuck to another surface minyak (oily man) on top and a Auntie is coming in ten minutes, until pried off with oil. So with hantu raya (great ghost) below. Does you know! Put on something to great reluctance he trundled my husband need to be such a wear!” His wife Molly bustled off into their shared bedroom vainpot? But must say lah, the baju past like an interminable wind of and rifled through the chest of lokchuan does suit you well.’ Willie harried gestures. drawers for something to wear. opened his mouth to retort but Like most household leaders, Returning to the kitchen, he Molly let out a gasp. The doorbell the Peranakan wives held reached for some ondeh ondeh so had rung. absolute sway over the governing enticingly laid out, but not before “She’s here! Come, come let’s of the family’s operations and being promptly slapped on the go greet her!” Saved by the bell. He expenditure. Willie himself was no hand. “Don’t ruin your appetite let out a loud sigh and grimaced exception to this paradigm. “You before dinner! And what is that inwardly. This dinner was going to forgot to put down the toilet seat you are wearing?” shrilled Molly. be a long and tedious one… again! What did I tell you about “Go and wear that nice black and In our next issue: Read about Grand clipping nails inside the house? Go gold baju lokchuan you wore for Aunty herself!

36 | ISSUE 4 • 2014