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Sausage Tech 1 5/29/08 12:47 PM Page 1

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2008 TECH JOURNAL SERIES 101

Photo courtesy of Odom’s Tennessee Pride A supplement to The National Provisioner SAUSAGE TECHNOLOGY JOURNAL Sausage Tech 1 5/29/08 12:47 PM Page STJ-2

2008 TECH JOURNAL SERIES SAUSAGE TECHNOLOGY 101 A NATIONAL PROVISIONER RESEARCH PROJECT BY BARBARA YOUNG, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF LISA WHITE, RESEARCH ASSISTANT PART ONE: OVERVIEW he sausage category consists of comminuted cessing often includes a blend of Old World tradi- ranging from coarsely ground to fine tions and tastes with modern processing equipment. T emulsions such as hot dogs or bologna. Technology is a key driver behind efficient Products may be cured, smoked or heat-processed. sausage production, which is defined by sophisticated Categories generally include fresh; uncooked and manufacturing techniques. smoked such as Italian sausage; cooked and The National Provisioner is producing a series of smoked as in hot dogs; cooked such as sausage; technology journals covering various aspects of the dry, semi-dry or fermented such as summer sausage processing side of the industry. These in-depth or ; and cooked specialties such as reports delve into the science and technology that luncheon loaves. Each product in the category has its support the business foundation of meat- and - own processing method with intricacies and tradi- processing programs. This is the third in the series. tions dating back hundreds of years. The recipe for The first two focused on and ground , success in the 21st century concerning sausage pro- respectively. NP PART TWO: PRODUCTION BASICS uring meat processing, plays a critical stabilization during cooking. role in the formation of a stable emulsion, no Meat regulations in the United States specify a D matter what other flavors and seasonings maximum of 30 percent fat in cooked . The are eventually added to the meat matrix. normal moisture-to-protein ratios for comminuted Salt solubilizes the myofibrillar proteins — actin products is 4-to-1, although regulations allow for 10 and myosin — which swell as they absorb water to percent in excess of this ratio in cooked sausages, form a gel matrix. This increases the viscosity of the and 3 percent in fresh sausage. Higher-fat meat por- mix, thereby adding stability by preventing moisture tions and other ingredients including non-meat pro- loss and fat coalescence during heat processing. The tein extenders, starches, seasoning and flavorings are myofibrillar proteins also add stability to the matrix blended in following the initial protein extraction when solubilized by acting as emulsifying agents from lean meat and salt. and coating the fat particles. Several of these extenders have been instrumental During blending, mechanical action aids in solu- in textural and flavor improvements of low-fat bilizing and swelling the meat proteins. Several fac- sausages in recent years. Extenders such as soy pro- tors influence the meat emulsion’s stability includ- tein concentrate, whey protein concentrate and ing temperature of the batter during blending, pH, starch serve a variety of beneficial functions from the amount and source of salt-soluble proteins and improvements in water-binding capacity to reduced viscosity of the batter. Moisture-to-protein ratios shrinkage, all of which generally factor into cost sav- also factor into the meat’s stability and perform- ings. Advancements in textured soy protein concen- ance, particularly since soluble proteins play such a trate provide products with meat-like qualities in key role in binding, both in water retention and fat both appearance and bite. NP

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SAUSAGE TECHNOLOGY 101

PART THREE: PROCESSING SYSTEMS BY WESLEY N. OSBURN, PH.D., ASSOCIATE PROFESSOR, DEPARTMENT OF ANIMAL SCIENCE, TEXAS A&M UNIVERSITY

aking sausage products using a batch meat These components are contained within the manufacturing concept requires using housing or grinder head and are secured with a M effective processing equipment. A well- lock ring. Meat is fed through the hopper where the designed system provides a consistently uniform auger screw carries it to the cutting knives to be coarse ground or emulsified sausage product. sliced by the rotating knives and extruded through Particle definition (coarse-ground products) and the grinder plate. Commercial grinders are emulsion stability (emulsion-type products) are designed to handle fresh or frozen (minus 5° to critical objectives for designing a new batch system minus 10°C) meat. Many systems can grind from or in modifying an existing one. 3,000 to as much as 25,000 kg/hour, depending A typical batch system to produce coarse or upon the raw material used and number of revolu- emulsified type sausage products usually consists tions of the grinder system. of the following steps: pre-grinding, mixing, fat It is essential to determine the properties of the analysis, final grinding, chopping and/or raw material used to select the correct main drive, emulsification, stuffing/filling and in most cases, feed and working auger speeds. Several grinder thermal processing. Fresh and/or frozen meat is manufacturers offer a mixer grinder option using pre-ground to create a uniform particle size for an agitator as a feeder to pass product down to the blending or mixing. Mixers are used to ensure the feed auger and forward through the grinder uniformity of the product’s chemical composition assembly. (e.g. fat). The basic mixer uses a hopper and a pair To prevent product grease-out or poor particle of agitators (e.g. ribbon, paddle or solid flight) to definition, it is important to ensure that cutting mix the “meat dough.” knives and plates are sharp and properly tightened Once the proper fat content of the meat has been with the grinder assemble. Available grinding achieved, the meat is passed through a final grind to technology allows the option of using a series of achieve a uniform particle size definition. If an grinding plates and cutting knives to precut raw emulsified product is desired, the meat can be material to reduce or comminute the particle size chopped or emulsified to create a stable emulsion of the meat to the final desired diameter. than can withstand thermal processing. The final Grinder plates and knives are available in a stage involves stuffing or filling using a sausage variety of hole diameters (normal range from 0.32 to stuffer. Next comes linking or clipping to close the 3.2 cm). Grinder manufacturers have also developed product, including freezing or refrigeration, thermal an outside cutting knife that can be attached to the processing, chilling, packaging and refrigeration. last grinder plate to provide a uniform particle size. An outside cutting device that rotates independently ■ GRINDING SYSTEMS of the working auger is available in producing Grinders reduce the particle size of raw materials variable lengths of ground product. to create the desired final attributes of the product in In coarsely ground and emulsified sausage terms of texture and visual appeal. Basic system products, it is important to remove bone chips and components include a hopper or bin, the housing gristle from the finished product. Various bone consisting of an auger or feed screw (may be collection systems have been developed for grinders attached to a second auger called the working using either a center or peripheral discharge system auger), grinder blades or cutting knives and the to remove unwanted bone and sinew. In the grinder plate. production of emulsified products, processors often Continued on page STJ-6

STJ-4 SAUSAGE TECHNOLOGY JOURNAL | JUNE 2008 SAUSAGE TECHNOLOGY JOURNAL Sausage Tech15/29/0812:48PMPageSTJ-5 Science, OhioStateUniversity(contactinformation: [email protected]) Source: SausageandProcessedMeatFormulations byHerbertW. Ockerman,Ph.D,Professor, AnimalSciences,CollegeofFood,Agri * =valuedoesnotmeetfederalregulationsorcommonlyacceptedguidelines (7 of44meatblockformulations) PORK SAUSAGEINGREDIENTS (8 of45spiceformulations) PORK SAUSAGESPICEFORMULATIONS Properties Calculated composition-2%shrink Fruits andVegetables Moist Ingredients Ingredients Dry Pork MEAT BLOCK Curing Ingredients cool place 7. Storeina upside down,cool 6. Closejar, turn 5. Pourhotfatover while hot 4. Packinjars 3. Fry, brown 2. Grind 1. Mix A. at.10004 . . 2.3 18 2 .4 2.2 1.8 20 2 18 18 2 25 21 75 15 2 25 75 19 30 7 10 70 30 0 33 33 0 40 67 16 34 0 66 0 0 34 0 92 10 66 14 87 0 9 0 9 .01 12 0 100 5 34 0 24 0 16 10 0 0 16 .06 52 7 1 95 25 36 70 16 60 1 Color Points(Min.2) 17 23 27 Bind Points(Min.1.8) 93 16 % Collagen(Max.35) 60 34 5 65 38 Protein Fat (Max.50%) Moisture Tomato puree Pimiento Water orice Salt Rusk Dextrose Trim 50 Trim 80(lean) Rind, emulsion Head meat Backfat ae31 . 2 6.2 1 6.2 1 1 2 1 2 1 7 2 4 1 6 4 1 1 7 2 1 1 9 8.5 2 7 8 .5 14 2.5 .5 8 3 2.5 12 1.6 15 17 8.5 7 8.5 13 12 1 11 8 1.7 33 8.5 4 10 8 11 1 9 17 .5 15 1 .25 9 18 1 .87 18 18 6 .25 3.5 5 16 22 .87 20 8 .25 1 6 10 8 15 .25 8.7 10 8.5 0 0 0 0 0 .1 0 .1 .1 Thyme Sage Pepper, white Pepper, red Pepper, black Paprika Ginger Garlic, powder Fennel seedground Coriander Cardamon Caraway seed Anise Allspice Na Erythorbate Na orKNitrite Na orKNitrite frozen 5. Sellfreshor 4. Stuff 3. Grind, 2. Mix 1. Grind, B. 3 1 ⁄ ⁄ 2 16 ” PROCESSING PROCEDURES ” 18 hours 10. Chill,38°F, temperature 9. Dry, room internal temperature 8. Showerto110°F temperature of142°F 7. Cook,internal 6. HeavySmoke temperature 5. Dry, room 4. Stuff,link 3. Mix 2. Grind, 1. Chillmeat,32°F C. 1 ⁄ 4 ”

MOISTURE 6. Cool,36°F 4 hours 5. Coldsmoke, 18 hours 4. Cure,36°F, 3. Stuff 2. Mix 1. Grind D. 20012 .1 .1 020070 28110060 212700000 27 25 17 FAT

MOISTURE PROTEIN AVERAGE VALUES AVERAGE VALUES FAT % CO LLAGEN 12345678 1 PROTEIN BIND 6. Stuff for color 5. Addblood 4. Mix moderate fine 3. Grindfat, 2. Chop 1. Boilmeat E. (7 of11processingprocedures) COLOR JUNE 2008 OZ. UNLESSINDICATED OTHERWISEPER100LBS.OFMEAT 18*. 19*. . . 2.1 1.8 2.9 1.9 2.0 21.9 26.4 *1.5 *1.2 21.2 *1.5 *1.9 29.5 33.3 *1.5 *1.9 48.6 40.3 22.1 *1.5 *1.8 44.1 39.9 22.8 *1.4 47.6 35.9 21.8 43.8 33.7 46.4 35.6 44.6 33.2 46.1 . . . . . 2210.4 12.2 9.8 9.5 9.4 9.6 9.3 ABCDEFG | SAUSAGE TECHNOLOGY JOURNAL POUNDS FORVARIOUS FORMULATIONS 13. Refrigerate 12. Package 11. Peel 10. Chill,45°F 9. Dry, 70°F, 2hours internal temperature 8. Showerto110°F temperature of142°F cook tointernal 7. Smokehouse, 6. Dry, 70°F, 2hours 5. Stuff 4. Grind, 3. Mix 2. Grindrest,1” 1. Grindshank, F. 3 ⁄ 16 ” cultural andEnvironmental 1 ⁄ 8 ” 9. Chill 8. Dry, 70°F temperature of140°F 7. Cook,internal 6. Stuff 5. Mix 4. Chop 3. Grind 2. Chillmeat 1. Cookmeat G. STJ-5 SAUSAGE TECHNOLOGY JOURNAL Sausage Tech 1 5/29/08 12:48 PM Page STJ-6

SAUSAGE TECHNOLOGY 101

grind the lean and fat meat components or “meat up to 100 processing cycles — including chopping blocks” separately and adjust the final fat content time, bowl and knife speed — with a manual during the chopping process. override. Knife head: This is a critical component in the ■ CHOPPING AND EMULSIFICATION bowl-chopping process. Some commercial Completing the final grind prepares product for manufacturers offer balancing unit or balancing stuffing or further comminuting in a bowl chopper clamps enabling the knife head to minimize or emulsification system. The primary purpose of the vibration during high-speed chopping. Knife system for producing emulsified product is to extract shape impacts the stability of emulsion and its the salt soluble proteins from the lean to use as an ability to retain added water and to entrap the emulsifier during the process of reducing the particle protein encapsulated fat particles during thermal size of lean and fat meat blends. processing. This minimizes or eliminates the risk of This creates a meat emulsion or suspension by “grease-out” or “fat caps” that may occur in the coating fat particles with a protein film created by final cooked product. Knife blades are available for the solubilized meat proteins. Comminuting and specific product types, such as coarse ground and mixing are achieved via a revolving bowl that passes emulsified, or for universal applications. the meat through a set of vertical knives (knife head) mounted on a high-speed rotating arm. ■ EMULSIFIER APPLICATION Commercial bowl choppers are available with This system combines the principles of grinding “state-of-the-art” technology offering flexibility in and chopping to produce a fine emulsion, or producing high-quality sausage products with medium and coarse particle-size reduction. The various textural attributes. Bowl choppers are also basic components of an emulsifier include hopper, offered with a cooking system using low-pressure rotor blade, plate, impeller and discharge pipe or steam to cook meat during the chopping process. orifice. Thanks to technology, the capability exists to Most emulsifiers can create a vacuum to directly inject either water, nitrogen (to extend shelf increase product density, improve color and lengthen life) and/or liquid nitrogen (to quickly cool shelf life. Several manufacturers offer either a vari- pre-rigor meat) into the product during chopping. able or constant speed with or without a program- Bowl choppers also are available with loaders and mable computer control system to monitor knife ejectors to increase production efficiency before and speed and product pumping speed. Emulsifiers can after completing the chopping process. The create a significant rise in product temperature development of a remote control device is another (4-8°C). innovation that allows a single operator to control Development of a programmable computer several bowl choppers for highly automated control system provides the ability to monitor knife production systems. speed and vacuum levels and also adjust product pump speed to not exceed a specified final product ■ BOWL CHOPPER APPLICATION temperature. Emulsion mills are available with a This system traditionally consists of variable bowl single or double plate and blade-cutting assembly and knife speeds. Lower bowl and knife speeds are to increase production efficiency and better control generally used for mixing or blending non-meat finished product temperature and particle definition. ingredients, such as spices and flavorings. The ability A bone and metal trap with the emulsion mill to draw a vacuum during the chopping process is before the product reaches the cutting assembly is critical to ensure optimum emulsification, better another unique innovation to ensure product safety shelf life and reduction of product volume. and minimize maintenance costs. Improved product performance during the stuffing/filling operation is the benefit. ■ STUFFING AND FILLING Control panels: They display knife speeds, Once the desired product texture is achieved, the product temperature, chopping time and the amount meat is ready to be stuffed. Common sausage of vacuum applied during chopping. More stuffers include piston, auger or screw and rotary sophisticated control panels offer the ability to store vane. Basic components of auger or rotary vane

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2008 TECH JOURNAL SERIES

stuffers include hopper, in-feed scroll, feed screw or Available systems include plastic and aluminum auger, filling nozzle and stuffing horn. Piston models alloy clips for closing sausage chains of varying include moving piston, chamber, lid, stuffing lock lengths — sausage loops and individual sausages and stuffing horn. A linking attachment is stuffed in either natural or artificial casings. Most primarily used with auger or rotary vane type closure systems are pneumatically operated either stuffers. The standard auger or rotary vane stuffer manually, semi-automatically or automatically and can create a vacuum while stuffing product to contain a fixed knife to trim excess casing or attain the desired product density and ease of packaging materials. Some systems with pneumatic product evacuation for filling. cylinders allow the end of the casing to be An “in line” vacuum grinding system can be “locked.” The product is then further compressed attached to a vacuum stuffer, which reportedly by pneumatic cylinder into the casing prior to improves particle definition, increases shelf life, clipping. improves portioning accuracy and reduces casing Closing systems for shirred synthetic casings usage. A separation device can also be attached to larger in diameter (fibrous, collagen and plastic) a remove bone and sinew during grinding. variety of stuffing horns are available that attach to Coextrusion technology is available to create a vacuum stuffer, allowing greater efficiency in innovative “filled” meat products. For example, a stuffing and handling of product. A device that coextruder attachment can connect two vacuum attaches “hanging loops” for hanging products over stuffers. One stuffer pumps product that creates the smokehouse sticks for thermal processing is also “shell” of the final product. Meanwhile, the other available. State-of-the-art closure technology uses a stuffer pumps the “filler” portion of the product. programmable controller to adjust equipment during operation. An additional innovation cleans ■ AUGER APPLICATIONS the casing ends before applying a preformed clip. This equipment uses a twin-screw auger system to convey product to the filling nozzle with a ■ COEXTRUSION INNOVATION minimum friction or “recirculation” of meat prior Coextrusion is an innovative system for the to evacuation. Augers are available in a number of manufacture of fresh, cooked or dry sausages configurations to evacuate emulsion, coarse ground where a collagen paste or dough is extruded into a or restructured meat. casing that surrounds the sausage mixture as it exits the vacuum stuffer. ■ ROTARY VANE APPLICATIONS An advanced sausage manufacturing system is These stuffers consist of a rotary vane pump, available in which the coextruded sausage is ideal for smaller applications involving frequent conveyed in a continuous rope through a brine product changeovers while minimizing product loss. solution to help crosslink the collagen casing. The Rotary vanes also minimize product friction prior to sausage is then crimped or cut into the appropriate evacuation. length and enters a drying step to strengthen the extruded collagen casing. ■ CLIPPING/CLOSURE SYSTEMS Cooked smoked sausages can be sprayed with Various linking mechanisms are available to twist liquid smoke to further crosslink the collagen link sausages stuffed in either natural or synthetic casing, and then is precooked to a targeted (collagen, cellulose, fibrous, plastic) casings. A temperature. They are vacuum-packaged before the conveyor is used to assist in discharging the sausage next step of being cooked to a final internal product from the clipping machine. product temperature “in the bag.” Some type of closure is required for sausage The texture or bite of the can be products stuffed in unlinked synthetic casings to controlled by the thickness of the extruded collagen prevent leaking during subsequent processing steps, layer, by adjusting the salt concentration of the such as fermentation and thermal processing. brine solution, the application of liquid smoke or High-speed automatic closure systems can stuff adjusting drying times to achieve the bite or snap product into chub packages using roll stock plastic one would find in sausages manufactured with film and shirred fibrous or collagen casings. natural casings. NP

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PART FOUR: NITRATE/NITRITE CONNECTION itrites in processed meat and poultry products current levels of use in processed meats. became a suspicious practice in the 1970s A study released in November 2007 determined N when the scientific community suggested a that nitrite/nitrate found in vegetables, cured meats link between nitrite and human cancer potential. and drinking water may be beneficial to heart attack , reportedly the most widely used addi- victims. Based on a pre-clinical study led by a cardio- tive in the production of cured meat products, acts as vascular physiologist at The University of Texas an antioxidant and is essential concerning efforts to Health Science Center at Houston, mice fed extra contain the growth of harmful bacteria — especially nitrite and nitrate fared much better following a heart Clostridium botulinum and Listeria monocytogenes. attack than those on a regular diet. Mice with extra Foodborne botulism was identified as a problem in nitrite had 48 percent less cell death in the heart while sausage in the 1800s. Botulin, derived from the Latin those on low nitrite/nitrate diets had 59 percent word for sausage, is an insidious toxin as it can be greater injury. Moreover, mice with extra nitrite in their present without detectable evidence such as a foul systems had a survival rate of 77 percent compared to odor or other signs of contamination. Symptoms of 58 percent for nitrite-deficient mice. poison — evidenced by such changes as blurred or “This is a very significant finding given the fact double vision, droopy eyelids, dry mouth, slurred that simple components of our diets — nitrite and speech, vomiting, diarrhea, difficulty in swallowing nitrate — that we have been taught to fear and and muscle weakness — usually appear suddenly restrict in food can now protect the heart from within 18 to 36 hours after ingesting contaminated injury,” reported lead author Nathan Bryan, Ph.D., an sausage. Death can occur without proper medical assistant professor at UT-Houston’s Brown treatment. Foundation Institute of Molecular Medicine for the Sodium nitrite is recommended in cures to prevent prevention of Human Diseases. “Simple changes in Botulin contamination in smoked sausage. The use of our daily dietary habits such as eating nitrite- and nitrites began hundreds of years ago. Historically, nitrate-rich foods such as fruits and vegetable and nitrate was identified as a naturally occurring contam- some meats in moderation can drastically improve inant in salt, prompting chemists to isolate that com- outcome following a heart attack.” pound and intentionally add it in the form of saltpeter As Bryan explains, nitrite forms nitric oxide gas (potassium nitrate). Eventually, nitrite (NO2) and not during a heart attack that reopens closed or clogged nitrate (NO3) was recognized as a beneficial substance arteries, thereby reducing the amount of permanent with color and flavor properties that enhance pork. injury to the heart muscle. Nitrite and nitrate are USDA initially authorized the use of sodium nitrite natural molecules in the human body. The primary in cured meat in 1925. Federal scrutiny concerning source of circulating nitrite and nitrate in the body nitrite toxicity only began in the 20th century. For comes from vegetables, not cured or processed example, federal safety concern focused on the meats. “Vegetables have up to 100 times more presence of residual nitrite from the use of nitrogen nitrate than processed meats, so the amount of peroxide used to bleach flour in a 1914 court case. nitrite and nitrate consumed in processed or cured Based on the government’s finding, the presence of meats is far less than what is consumed by eating a nitrite in the product was not harmful given that the spinach salad, for example,” Bryan points out. mere presence of a toxin does not, in and of itself, pose Bryan refutes the nitrite/nitrate link to cancer that an adverse health threat. The government’s caveat, surfaced in a report in the 1960s. “Many studies however, represented a reminder that “the dose makes implicating nitrite and nitrate in cancer are based on the poison” (from Paracelsus, the 16th century father very weak epidemiological data,” he said. “If nitrite of modern toxicology). That being the case, caution is and nitrate were harmful to us, then we would not be necessary when using nitrites.1 advised to eat leafy vegetables or swallow our own Concerning the nitrite/nitrate debate in the 21st saliva, which is enriched in nitrate.” century, scientific experts have determined that issues Based on federal regulations, levels of nitrite and raised about the safety of using nitrate and nitrite for nitrate allowed in the United States depend upon the curing meat do not represent relevancy in light of curing method and the product cured. Continued on page STJ-10

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“For comminuted products, the maximum ingoing con- sion cured, and massaged or pumped products, maximum centration of sodium or potassium nitrite is 156 parts per ingoing sodium or potassium nitrite and nitrate concentra- million (ppm) or 0.25 oz per 100 lbs (7 g/45.4 kg), based on tions are 200 and 700 ppm of nitrite and nitrate, respective- the green weight of the meat block (USDA, 1995). ly, again based on the green weight of the meat block. Dry Maximum ingoing sodium or potassium nitrate for com- cured products are limited to 625 ppm and 2187 ppm of minuted products is 1718 ppm. Sodium and potassium nitrite and nitrate, respectively. If nitrite and nitrate are nitrite and nitrate are limited to the same quantity despite both used for a single product, the ingoing limits remain the the greater molecular weight of the potassium . This same for each but the combination must not result in more means that the potassium salt contains less nitrite or nitrate than 200 ppm of analytically measured nitrite, calculated as than the equivalent weight of the sodium salt. For immer- sodium nitrite in the finished product.”2 NP

PART FIVE: BEST PRACTICES sampling of sausage-product manufacturers operate from a food-safety standpoint.” finds mutual agreement concerning the best Bob Evans is a leading producer and distributor of A strategies for developing wholesome products pork sausage and a variety of complementary home- free of contaminations. style convenience food items marketed under its Bob For Ray Barnes, plant manager for Simpsonville, Evans and Owens brands. Ky-based F.B. Purnell Sausage Co., quality raw meat is Other food-safety initiatives include strict guide- the first step in the right direction toward producing lines during the sausage cooking process. “We are the best sausage products. always looking at modern cookers for effective “We put out a wholesome product, which means cooking,” Beery reports. “It is critical to meet time making sure hogs are healthy first and foremost,” and temperature specs to avoid overcooking the Barnes says. USDA inspectors check the hogs, which product. The result would be unacceptable flavor, are purchased in northern cities, for disease before moisture and texture attributes.” carcasses head to boning tables. Bob Evans food-production facilities operate in F.B. Purnell Sausage Co., born in the 1930s as the Michigan, Illinois, Ohio and Texas. The company’s brainchild of Fred B. Purnell, produces a variety of fiscal 2007 sales totaled more than $1.7 billion with whole-hog sausage products including hot, mild hot, 16 percent coming from food products and 84 percent , 10-ounce links and fully cooked sausage and from 600 company-owned and operated Bob Evans . The company manufactures 140,000 pounds restaurants in 18 state areas. of sausage each day. Old World sausage meisters are known for their Whole-hog sausage is made from carcasses — innovative product developments. German immigrant mostly sows or heavy market hogs — that are boned Frederick Usinger, who brought his sausage-making prior to chilling and final processing. It takes about 55 knowledge to the United States in the late 1870s, is minutes at F.B. Purnell to process a 200-pound batch of among them. He owned his own business by 1880. meat with 700 pounds of seasoning before it goes to a Today Fred Usinger Inc., Milwaukee, known for its chiller to reduce the temperature from 96°F to 23°F. line of sausages crafted from old German recipes, “Temperature is the most critical control for meat, sells its more than 70 varieties of sausage principal- with 43°F being the critical point,” Barnes says. “You ly to delicatessens and gourmet shops. It also oper- never want to take it above that or bacteria will set in.” ates a landmark retail store in downtown Bob Evans Farms Inc., Columbus, Ohio, also Milwaukee. Sausage products include beerwurst, operates with food-safety procedures as the basic , summer sausage, and first steps in its sausage processing system. wieners (hot dogs). Usinger’s was the official sup- “The first step is the facility has to be 100-percent plier of hot dogs to the 2002 Winter Olympics in clean and sanitary to start the operation,” confirms Salt Lake City in 2002. Earl Beery, senior vice president of operations. “We Although its traditional German-style recipes also depend on good equipment such as mixers, remain unchanged since 1880, Usinger’s approach to grinders, stuffers, linkers and slicers. It all needs to meat processing is modern and up to date.

STJ-10 SAUSAGE TECHNOLOGY JOURNAL | JUNE 2008 SAUSAGE TECHNOLOGY JOURNAL Sausage Tech15/29/0812:48PMPageSTJ-11 ensure meatisabsolutelysqueakyclean from amicro conditions isapriority. producing products underthebestfood-safety generates noheat. ambient room temperature iscoolerasthecooker quality.” Another benefit,Stonehockersays,isthatthe advantages onthislineare throughput andconsistent there soitdoesn’tconsumerextraenergy. The system automaticallyshutsdownwhennoproduct is continues downthebelt,”Stonehockerexplains.“The “Lightwaves are activatedbysensorsasmeat tures — isacenterpieceinnovationoftheproject. wavelengths capableofyieldingguaranteedtempera- sandwiches andsausageballs. makes gravyandassemblespackagessausage near Nashville.Theplantproduces cookedsausage, expanding thecompany’splantinDickson,Tenn., three to makequalitysausage. materials todeterminethebestwaycombine charge. His approach istolookatman,methodsand experience atGeneralMotorsandFrito-Lay, toleadthe company recruited JimStonehocker, anengineerwith industry through technology. To thatend,in1994,the ing from arttoscience. modern concepts.Thatmeanstakingsausage-mak- 1943, thecompanypridesitselfonoperatingunder quality sausage-making. Although foundedin another familybusinesswithalonghistoryof he concludes. detail, consistencyandnottakingshortcuts,” formulas, high-qualityrawmaterials,attentionto family businessissimple,according toUsinger. condition andwell-maintained.” means knivesandplatesofgrindersshouldbeingood that iswell-maintained,”Usingeradvises.“That are goingtopregrind product, youneedamachine standard rawmaterials.” and cold. You can’tmakegoodproduct from sub- “Good conditionmeansfresh, notagedmaterial, great grandsonandcurrent companypresident. raw material,”notesFritzUsinger, thefounder’s “Food safetystartsonthekillfloor where we Capital improvements are essentialatOdom’s,but An infrared cooker—functioningwithcontrollable Odom’s isaboutbeingaleaderinchangingthe Odom’s Tennessee PrideofMadison,Tenn., is “It isadherence totime-honored recipes and The keytobusinesssuccessforthis128-year-old Equipment mustalsobeinthebestshape.“Ifyou “The firstrule ofthumbistobeginwiththebest recent project involvedupgradingand A 2008 TECHJOURNALSERIES and ourspicesare ofthehighestquality.” proper product flowandquality. Ourrawmaterials but wehavestate-of-the-artequipment thatallowsthe “We are verysmallandnotahigh-volumeoperator, it’s handledthroughout theprocess,” sheemphasizes. concerned, from whenthematerialcomesintohow ensure idealsausage-making. the bowlchopper.” more heatrisewithgrinders. You don’thavethatwith get anicecleancutwiththebowlchopperandyou pers are preferred overgrinders.“We havefoundyou down.” partially frozen meatoricetokeeptemperatures smearing problems,” shesays.“Thatiswhyweuse don’t wantrisingtemperatures toavoidbacterialand in theprocess. “Asmeatgoesthrough production, we mer sausagesand40varietiesoffresh brats. ferent typesofprocessed sausagesfrom bratstosum- the sausage.” “You don’twantamachinetochangethemakeupof particle definitionisimportant. achieve desired consistency, makeupofsausageand it ispackagedforsale.” ents. Themixture isstuffed intocasings. At thatpoint, consistency dependsontime,mixandgrindingredi- materials andcleanworksurfaces. Achieving thegrind The rest issanitationwithcleanhands,raw there you addingredients andwhatgoesintomeat. achieve thebestgrind,Blakesleecontinues.“From or greasiness,” reports BillBlakeslee,president. tures, thiswaymeatgrindsfresh andthere isnosmear sausage. trained ontheprocess,” heconcludes. on theproperty becauseouremployeesare well- recently bytakingcontrol ofanimals whentheyarrive Stonehocker says.“We havetakenitastepfurther away from theprocessing area].” the processing room through ahole[tokeepthem drum skinnerremoves hidesthatdrop below casses. A count,” Stonehockerreports. “We don’tscaldourcar- “It isnotjustonething,itallcriticalasfarI’m Overall, Nolecheksaysacombinationofsteps On theequipmentside,Nolecheksaysbowlchop- Kelly Nolecheksaystemperature control iscrucial Nolechek's MeatsofThorp,Wis., produces 150dif- “Different stuffers dodifferent things,”henotes. He alsosayshavingtherighttypeofstuffer to The optimaltemperature ofrawmaterialis32°Fto “The keytomakinggoodsausageiscoldtempera- Del Vecchio FoodsInc.,Houston,offers rawground Humane animalhandlingiscriticalandcrucial, JUNE 2008 | SAUSAGE TECHNOLOGY JOURNAL NP STJ-11 SAUSAGE TECHNOLOGY JOURNAL Sausage Tech 1 5/29/08 12:48 PM Page STJ-12

SAUSAGE TECHNOLOGY 101

PART SIX: HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVE he art of making sausages evolved from the of a Roman sausage. simple process of salting and drying meat to Black or blood sausages of the Middle T preserve it for later consumption to a modern Ages joined , also made in a sausage meat manufacturing process. To be sure, sausage is a skin or a stomach lining to form a larger round prod- popular meat protein in contemporary times, which is uct. In early times, pig intestines were used to make a tribute to its survival over more than 5,000 years. pudding after the animal was slaughtered. The intes- History tells us that ancient Romans gave the world tines were washed clear in a running stream and left to the sausage vernacular with the word salsus (the pre- soak overnight in spring water. Casings were cut into fix “sal” being the word for salt). 15-inch lengths and tied at one end. The sausage recipe Some scholars pinpoint the origin of the diverse comprised salt, lard, , finely chopped onions, sausage meat product as coinciding with the develop- spices, peppers, cloves and a cup of flour. The ingredi- ment of salt as an effective preservative. The Chinese ents were mixed with pig’s blood. The sausage was began using salt to cure and preserve meat in the 13th dropped into a pot of simmering hot water, cooked for century B.C. Meanwhile, other seasonings were later about an hour before removal, cooled and consumed found to be effective sources of flavoring along with shortly thereafter.3 their preservative qualities. , a sausage that came from the Scots, was Salt works to preserve meat by penetrating into the made of , spices, onions, oatmeal and the heart, tissue and drawing out moisture. Increasing the liver and lights (lungs) of a . The mixture was amount of concentrated salt and decreasing the pres- boiled in a sheep’s stomach. Salted, packed into a ence of moisture inhibits the growth of microorgan- stomach and boiled allowed these Highlanders to isms in meat. The meat then can be stored with limited extend the shelf life of their sausage to a couple weeks. threat of spoilage. Haggis survived in remote highland areas until The process begins with good quality raw meat. modern times. Although haggis also included pork The domestication of pigs, the primary source of most fat or suet, its taste and texture reportedly sausages, is said to have begun in China and Egypt resembled the Jewish dish called derma created about 5000 B.C., triggering the fast spread of pig-rais- from chicken fat, flour, spices and onions baked in ing throughout the Near East, Europe and Asia. a steer’s intestines. The onset of dry sausage The origin of meat processing may be lost in antiq- paralleled the discovery of new spices that helped uity, but the procedure for stuffing meat into casing to enhance flavor and preserve the meat. has been well-documented. The ancient Babylonians The global development of sausage followed a reportedly developed a sausage version by wrapping regional pattern. For example, Bologna originated in pig intestine around meat to roast on an open flame. the town of Bologna in northern Italy and Berliner Sausage later became an efficient means of feeding sausage came from Berlin, Germany. Sausage recipes large armies during the expansion of the Roman were greatly influenced by the availability of Empire into Western Europe. ingredients and climate. Northern Europeans kept History provides further insight into culinary their fresh sausage without refrigeration thanks to its traditions that led to the early development of periods of cold weather. They also developed a process sausage, also derived from the Latin word botellus. of sausage to help preserve the meat during and pudding also came from “botellus.” warmer months. Southern Europeans capitalized on Food historians have determined that varieties of their hot climate by developing dry sausage that can be seen as the multiple descendants needed no refrigeration. NP

REFERENCES 1 Nitrite as a Food Additive: State of the Science (December 10-11, 1997) “FDA Perspectives on the Safety of Nitrites by Fred R. Shank, Director, Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition, FDA 2 Natural and Organic Cured Meat Products — Regulatory, Manufacturing, Marketing, Quality and Safety Issues by Joseph Sebranek, Iowa State University and James Bacus, Technical Ingredient Solutions LLC, AMSA White Paper Series Number 1, March, 2007) 3 (Excerpted from The Food Timeline http://www.foodtimeline.org)

Additional sources in Part 6: Historical Perspective include The Ultimate Cookbook By Papa Cantella; History of by Nordan J. Lunde, Sausage Meister, Dakota Sausage Kitchen; The Art and Practice of Sausage Making by Martin Marchello, Ph.D., Professor, Animal and Range Science and Julie Garden-Robinson, Ph.D., L.R.D., Food and Nutrition Specialist

STJ-12 SAUSAGE TECHNOLOGY JOURNAL | JUNE 2008 SAUSAGE TECHNOLOGY JOURNAL