The Inside: Pg. 12 ELIE TAHARI SUES ANDREW ROSEN FOR $180M/3 Top PantoneWWD Colors WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • September 7, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Stamp of Approval NEW YORK — In a major shift, Polo Ralph Lauren is bolstering its jeans business for spring by launching Lauren Jeans Co., a new better-priced denim line. The collection focuses on high rises and relaxed shapes in a variety of washes and fi ts. Here, for example, Lauren Jeans Co.’s stretch cotton denim vest, cotton voile shirt and cotton denim pants with stamp embroidery. For more on the line, see pages 6 and 7. Arnault in the Sun: LVMH Remains Bullish As Profits Climb 46% By Miles Socha PARIS — The U.S. dollar may be weak, but not enough to dent Bernard Arnault’s gold-plated optimism about the high-flying luxury sector. “The performance is extremely good. We are very confident in our objectives,” the chairman of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said Wednesday in reporting a 46 percent leap in first-half net profits to 817 million euros, or $1 billion. “The economic environment is mostly positive, even if the dollar is a little lower.” Looking rested and happy after summer vacation, an upbeat Arnault See LVMH, Page 8 PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION Polo Ralph Lauren is bolstering its jeans by launching Lauren Jeans Co., ™ 6 a new better-priced denim line featuring high rises and relaxed shapes. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL The dollar might be weak, but not enough to dent LVMH chief Bernard 1 Arnault’s gold-plated optimism about the high-fl ying luxury sector. KNIT WITS Gianni Versace SpA swung back into profi tability in the fi rst half of the Sweaters Make Smart Style Sense This Season 4 year, meeting its original break-even target a year and a half early. DISH: AG Adriano Goldschmied, the premium denim fi rm, has teamed “Sweaters are the new separates,” declares particularly among women aged 35 and over. In 9 with HBO’s “Entourage” to form a lifestyle brand, AG for Entourage. Majda Coza, Head of Sweater Design for New the second quarter of 2005, 81.4% of all female BEAT: Tibi designer Amy Smilovic is opening her fi rst store, a 2,200- York and Company, an apparel business. She respondents stated that if a garment needed ironing, 10 square-foot fl agship at 120 Wooster Street in Manhattan, on Friday. enthuses about her craft, offering plenty of stylish, they ironed it at home. A lesser 76.6% made a Fortunoff is trying to position itself for growth and lure younger yet practical, ideas. “Layer them together. Round similar claim in the same period this year, with these 14 customers with a new ad campaign featuring Petra Nemcova. out your looks with belts and same women opting to wear the garment wrinkled, send it to the Rep. Robin Hayes (R., N.C.) introduced legislation that would boost the matching scarves. Have fun with rank of the U.S. special textile negotiator to ambassador. longer proportions and most of cleaners or to not have purchased 14 all, enjoy!” such an item at all. Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 Sweaters have evolved beyond “Sweater dressing is in,” Coza To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. basic pullovers and standard from New York and Company [email protected], using the individual’s name. cardigans to take their rightful states. “This season, the thing to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- place at the forefront of women’s do is to invest in cozy, sexy, soft RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 192, NO. 49. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- wardrobes. Today’s sweater and fun sweater looks.” And ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- dressing is all about chunky beyond a great look, comfort ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers cotton knits, sweater coats, factor and ease of care, Coza also Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and generously sized turtlenecks and sees a superb flexibility in how C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior cowl necks, tunics, long and the style savvy consumer will Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance belted wraps, shapely shrugs and be putting knits to work. “This Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. knit sweater dresses. season, she wants that sweater 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable to be the new tunic, dress, Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS “Sweaters are an evolving CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, investment cardigan and sexy ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR component of your wardrobe “Sweaters are the new this season,” says Linda DeFranco, volume top.” DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four separates. Layer them together. weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. a Senior Product Trend Analyst at “Sweaters are the bestsellers at Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other Round out your looks with belts Cotton Incorporated. “They are retail,” adds Perlick from Inhabit. U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. and matching scarves. Have First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, doing double- and triple-duty as “They complete outfits from and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions fun with longer proportions and and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To tops, bottoms, extra layers or coats; dresses to jeans. The cardigans most of all, enjoy!”” subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make and they are definitely more fashion transition well from day to evening our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would conscious than ever before.” — Majda Coza, because they offer options.” But interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise New York and Company us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. “Knits, in both skirts and dresses, don’t expect the current hit of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- are a really important trend for knits to be just a quick flash in the ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, fall,” tells Stacey Perlick, Vice President of Sales for pan. Perlick continues, “We have doubled our OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Inhabit, a designer knitwear collection recognized business this fall and most of our retailers have for its stylish selection. “There is a lot of layering re-ordered.” of knit dresses with lighter layers underneath and That may be due to the variety of cuts and sweaters over them. We have a tunic dress, for textures, but also in color, according to those in In Brief example, that we paired with long knit cardigans.” the know, which offer something for everyone “Tunic lengths, sweater coats, belted cardigans this season. “Colors include neutrals, like plum, ● PARLUX MAKING ROOM FOR MORE: Parlux Fragrances Inc. and sweaters with cowl necks are dark brown, grey and black, with said it would sell some of its noncore product lines to make room important,” considers Richard icy tones of blue, beige and pink for new fragrance ventures. Parlux has asked GLMAC, which Ostell, Vice President and Creative Favorite Fabric to Wear becoming more important color was the intermediary for the recent announcement of the intent Director with Liz Claiborne Apparel. stories later in the season,” Ostell to sell the Perry Ellis fragrance business, to assist in the sale. “This fall, what is most important Cotton 58% from Liz Claiborne attests. “Black, Parlux previously has worked with GLMAC in securing the li- in knits from our collection is charcoal, navy, and heathered cocoa censes for Guess, Paris Hilton and Maria Sharapova fragrances. Denim 9% The company expects the sale of select licenses to result in a pos- silhouette and texture.” Don’t Know 8% browns are selling best, as well as itive cash flow and to provide the funding for new fragrances. light neutrals in bone and twine,” That silhouette will be rather Cotton Blend 7% generous and the textures quite offers Perlick. “Get in on the season’s ● KELLWOOD BOARD MEMBER: Kellwood Co. has elected Silk 6% dense, offers DeFranco, the trends by having it in all the colors Philip B. Miller, interim president of St. John, to its board. With trend analyst. “While the cut is Linen 3% of the season: bright reds, purple more than 40 years in the retail and apparel industries, Miller’s symmetrical and sculpted, it’s not Polyester 2% passion and deep blues. Smart and résumé includes president of Neiman Marcus, vice chairman of necessarily defined. It’s definitely classic luxe greys are casual yet very Lord & Taylor, chairman and chief executive offi cer of Marshall Rayon 2% Field’s and chairman and ceo of Saks Fifth Avenue. Miller going to be about volume,” she Other 2% luxurious,” says Coza. But it doesn’t replaces Martin Bloom, who retired from the board in June. stop there, according to the sweater observes. She also believes that Wool 1% Miller will become a member of the compensation committee. some of that volume will be coming designer; color melding is also in Spandex 1% from the fabrics themselves. “We’re vogue. “Boost your wardrobe with ● IN PARTY FASHION: Hairstylist John Barrett will host seeing lots of cables, mélanges, and multi-color choices this season, Stylemakers, a party billed as a celebration of New York heathered knits that have great depth.” patterns are a must! It’s all about Fashion Week, at his salon in Bergdorf Goodman’s penthouse With that in mind, expect to see plenty of cozy yarns, easy styling belts, in glorious colors and Sept. 14. The event, which is in its second year, is being co- memorable textures and patterns.” hosted by Life & Style Weekly. Highlighting the event will be cotton knits and cotton blend knits, as data from an exhibition of images from Patrick McMullan’s new book, ™ the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor “There is an overall feeling of cocooning, being “InTents,” which offers glimpses of the front-row clamor and supports. When asked their favorite fabric to wear, covered up in cozy, slouchy sweaters,” Perlick backstage mayhem of the shows. a resounding 58% of female respondents stated concludes. As comforting as that sounds, there is a cotton and an additional 7% stated cotton blends, great style message in this observation and women ● NEW GREG NORMAN DESIGN DIRECTOR: Greg Norman indicating that nearly two out of three women everywhere will be wise to keep their knit wits about Collection, the men’s and women’s sportswear, golf apparel and prefer cotton and cotton blends when getting them this season. accessories brand, recently tapped Jeremy Brandrick as design di- dressed. A similar percentage of women would This story is one in a series of articles based on find- rector. Brandrick has 10 years experience in the apparel business, having worked with Marks & Spencer, Mulberry, Dolce & Gabbana pay a premium for their favorite fabric; 66.3% of ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ and Nicole Farhi. At Greg Norman, he’s helping to expand the female respondents said they were willing to pay tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these Signature Series line, with a mix of performance and luxury. He more for natural fibers, such as cotton. pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it reports to Sarah Hand McAleer, senior design director. Sweater dressing this season not only makes relates to the American consumer and her attitudes smart style sense, but brilliant maintenance sense, and behavior regarding clothing, which couldn’t come at a better time. Data from the appearance, fashion, fiber selection and Monitor indicates a growing resistance to ironing, many other timely, relevant subjects. Correction The bracelet on page 12 of WWDMusic, section II, Aug. 31, is from The Way We Wore. It was miscredited in the caption. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2006 3 WWD.COM Tahari Sues Rosen for $180 Million

By Lisa Lockwood suit charges, Rosen “falsely told Tahari” that he no longer could work for Theory or the fashion industry, and that he intended to retire within six months to one year, and NEW YORK — Elie Tahari dropped a bomb Wednesday on his former business partner the two partners needed to fi nd a buyer for the company. in Theory, Andrew Rosen. The suit alleges Rosen, on behalf of himself and several of the defendants, “inten- Filing a lawsuit in New York State Supreme Court, Tahari is seeking no less than tionally made material false statements of fact to Tahari and concealed material facts $180 million in damages from Rosen and 10 other defendants, alleging “commercial from Tahari in order to induce Tahari to sell his interest in Theory LLC.” treachery and fraudulent self-dealing.” Further, the complaint noted, between 1999 and 2002, Rosen had demanded that In the suit, Tahari charges Rosen defrauded him into selling Theory, the contempo- Tahari pay him a higher salary and a larger percentage of the profi ts of Theory LLC rary resource, in 2003 at a price that didn’t refl ect the company’s true value. Further, and decrease the money Theory was paying to Tahari Ltd., for support services Tahari it alleges the new Japanese owners resold Theory in an initial public offering on the was providing. Tokyo Stock Exchange in 2005 at a “On information and belief, defendant Rosen engaged in self-dealing by enter- market capitalization of more than ing into a scheme with defendants Sasaki and Link to steal the Theory brand from Elie Tahari $500 million — nearly fi ve times the Tahari through a forced sale, to receive additional value from the sale of his own sale price of Theory LLC less than interest in Theory LLC and to build a global Theory brand without Tahari,” the two years before. lawsuit said. “These IPO proceeds were ob- Faced with no alternative buyer and the fact that Rosen refused to continue tained by unlawful self-dealing his employment with Theory, the suit alleges Tahari agreed to sell his interest in and fraud and rightfully belong to Theory to an acquiring entity created by Link International, Fast Retailing and L&F Tahari,” the court papers said. The suit charges that Rosen, “along with his co-conspirators” stole in excess of $220 million from Mr. Tahari’s claims are completely baseless and Tahari. The more than $180 million in damages that Tahari is seeking “without any merit whatsoever. are derived from the difference ” — Andrew Rosen, Theory between the sale price received by Tahari on the sale of Theory in 2003, and one-half of the amount of the IPO proceeds, according to Holdings. Tahari received approximately $53 Andrew Rosen court papers. million, according to the suit. Rosen sold his Reached for comment, Rosen, one-half interest for about $49 million, togeth- president of Theory, told WWD: “I er with 11 percent of L&F Holdings, which had heard that Mr. Tahari was cir- held the U.S. operations of Theory. culating slanderous remarks about Rosen agreed to serve as president and me and our company, and I have chief operating offi cer of Link Theory U.S. for instructed my attorneys to take ap- a minimum of one year, with the possibility propriate action against him. Mr. of an extension up to three years, according Tahari’s claims are completely base- to the court papers. At around the time of the less and without any merit whatso- sale of Theory, the suit charges Rosen falsely ever. One has to consider the source told Tahari he would not, under any circum- when determining whether to give stances, work for more than the minimum re- credence to what he has to say.” quired one year. A spokesman for Tahari said, Subsequently, L&F Holdings was reorga- “We don’t comment on pending legal nized into Link Theory U.S., with 89 percent matters.” owned by Link Theory Holdings and the re- Tahari and Rosen started Theory together as 50/50 business partners in maining 11 percent by Rosen, according to the 1997. According to the suit, “Soon thereafter, Rosen repaid Tahari by imple- papers. menting a secret plan to wrest control of Theory from Tahari at a fraction of The suit alleges Rosen holds “additional its true value for the benefi t of himself and his co-conspirators.” valuable shares or other interests in Link Besides Rosen, the other defendants include Ricky C. Sasaki, Link Theory Holdings and/or Link Theory U.S.; International, Link Theory Holdings Co., Fast Retailing Co. and L&F pursuant to a secret agreement between Rosen Holdings Inc. and Sasaki and possibly others, although, given According to the lawsuit, Rosen told Tahari that he planned to retire from the secret nature of the fraudulent conspiracy Theory and the fashion business, and that Theory would have to be sold. The set forth above, Tahari is unable to describe suit charges Rosen refused to conduct an appraisal of Theory, or hire an out- this arrangement with any specifi city.” side investment adviser. Rather, the court papers allege, Rosen had a “secret According to the suit, both Tahari and agreement” with Sasaki and Link Holdings about selling them the business. Rosen were to receive “50 percent of any ac- During Tahari and Rosen’s partnership, Link International in Japan held crued and unpaid royalties under the Link the license to manufacture and distribute Theory products in Japan, Hong License Agreements up to the date of the sale Kong and other parts of Asia. The suit charges the business grew from $7.5 to L&F Holdings.” million in 2000 to more than $64 million in 2002, but that the defendants Based on the court papers, “Link and the “failed to make all their royalty payments to Theory on account of these other acquiring parties continued to breach sales, and were allowed to do so.” their obligations under both the Link license agreements and the purchase agreement The suit alleges the defendants failed to maintain accurate records, and have re- by failing to maintain proper books and records relating to royalty payments, refusing fused to disclose their fi nancial dealings. Additionally, the suit said Tahari told Rosen to provide Tahari access to such books and records, failing to cooperate in verifying that Theory should not renew its licensing agreements with Link or Sasaki, but Rosen the accuracy of past royalty payments and failing to make correct payments.” urged Tahari not to terminate the agreements. The suit states that Sasaki, Link and Link Theory U.S. “colluded with each other According to the complaint, Rosen urged Tahari to sell Theory to Sasaki and/or intentionally, purposefully and without excuse or justifi cation to deprive Tahari of his Link, but Tahari said he had no interest in selling the fi rm to anyone. But then, the ownership stake in Theory.” Adidas Extends Y-3 Deal With Yohji Yamamoto Through 2010 ADIDAS AND YOHJI YAMAMOTO HAVE EXTENDED THEIR Y-3 COLLABORATION “There is a constant exchange of cultural infl uences,’’ he said. “Both Yohji until 2010. Yamamoto’s design aesthetic and Adidas’ expertise in technology have made this Terms of the deal between the German athletic giant and Japanese fashion collaboration that much more successful. The result is a collection that is out of the designer were not disclosed. The contract had been set to expire next year. ordinary, innovative yet wearable, and continues to evolve with every season.” The cobranded line for men and women, now in its ninth season, includes fash- The line has had limited distribution in 500 doors worldwide, including mono- ion-forward sportswear with wholesale prices ranging from about $15 to $300 for brand stores, shop-in-shops and its Tokyo fl agship. Y-3 will maintain exclusive accessories, $45 to $675 for apparel and $90 to $275 for footwear. distribution, but will also focus on strengthening retail relationships and opening The company declined to give sales fi gures for the collection, but said Y-3 has additional monobrand stores and shop-in-shops in capitals in Europe, the U.S. doubled its sales season on season. When the brand launched in October 2002, and Asia. The brand was carried in about 150 stores in Europe and 20 in the U.S. the partners said they thought it could become a $300 million business in fi ve to when it fi rst launched four years ago. 10 years. Yamamoto, who is creative director, and Adidas fi rst collaborated for the “Our relationship with Yohji Yamamoto has exceeded all expectations,” designer’s fall 2001 collection, which featured co-branded sneakers. More than Hermann Deininger, creative director of the Adidas global brand, said. “Together, 50,000 pairs were sold. our challenge was to create a product that did not exist in the world before, and “Adidas is a very personal inspiration to me,’’ Yamamoto, who was not avail- we have succeeded in being the originators of a new market segment.” able for comment, said in a statement. “It has enriched my creative life. The fu- Adidas is looking into opening new product categories for Y-3 and further de- ture holds great expectations.” veloping key areas, including accessories and women’s apparel and footwear, ac- Y-3’s spring 2007 show is next Wednesday during New York Fashion Week. cording to Deininger. — Whitney Beckett 4 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2006 WWD.COM Versace Back in Black, Despite Soft Sales By Amanda Kaiser growth next year. Stressing the importance of the new re- tail concept, Di Risio said sales in the new Fifth Avenue A look from Versace’s MILAN — Gianni Versace SpA swung back into profitabil- fl agship are up 28 percent since the start of the year. ity in the first half of the year, meeting its original break- “It’s not the quantity of the things we do, but rather spring 2006 even target a year and a half early. the quality,” Di Risio said. “We have chosen a path, which collection. Pretax profi ts for the six months ended June 30 totaled may also turn out to be the more challenging one, to be a 2 million euros, or $2.5 million, compared with a year- luxury brand.” earlier loss of 7 million euros, or $9 million. Sales were Di Risio said he’s more interested in preserving the essentially fl at, dipping less than exclusivity of the Versace brand a percentage point to 148 million Giancarlo through ready-to-wear, accessories euros, or $182 million. Di Risio and select licensing deals for ultra- Dollar fi gures are converted from luxe products such as seven-star re- the euro at average exchange rates sorts and jet interiors. for the period to which they refer. Versace has been pushing for ex- Versace is starting to see the ben- clusivity in accessories, as well, of- efi ts of last year’s restructuring ef- fering limited-edition quilted leath- forts, chief executive Giancarlo Di er bags and other big-ticket items. Risio said. Accessories account for 30 percent “Profi ts are starting to come into of sales and the company bragged Versace’s coffers,” he said. “And all that it reached that target a year of this was done without a single ex- ahead of schedule. traordinary operation. This is from The company, which managed the management of the company.” to eliminate its debt last year, im- Looking to the full year, Di Risio proved its net fi nancial position in said the company is on track to post the fi rst half of this year. As of June a pretax profi t, but that it’s too soon 30, it was positive for 16 million to forecast whether Versace will do so euros, or $19.7 million, compared on a net level. The company is expect- with 2 million euros, or $2.6 million, ing full-year sales to be “above” the at the end of last year. 270 million euro, or $332.1 million, As reported, Versace hasn’t ruled mark. That level would represent a out the possibility of a listing on the 12 percent drop on 2005 fi gures. stock market, but Di Risio again Di Risio said revenues will con- stated the decision rests with the tinue to suffer this year as the company refurbishes its bou- company’s shareholders, Allegra Beck, Donatella Versace tiques, including those in Los Angeles, Miami, Brussels and and Santo Versace. He said he doesn’t expect a move on Florence, to its new black-and-white retail concept. The en- that front until 2008 at the earliest. Salvatore Ferragamo tire retail network should be updated by March of next year, announced last month that it’s preparing for stock market he said. Versace’s decision to discontinue a number of lower- listing, a development that would end a years-long dry priced diffusion lines and products also will bite into 2006 spell for fashion initial public offerings in Europe. accounts. “It’s a choice that depends on the shareholders,” Di The executive said Versace’s revenues will resume Risio said. Limited to Name P&G Exec as BBW’s Chief Marketing Offi cer By Pete Born Ashley Tisdale Fronting Club Libby Lu Cosmetics n the latest heavyweight addition to its lineup, Limited Brands has recruited LOS ANGELES — Disney channel star Ashley Tisdale has signed with Club Libby Lu IAnne Martin-Vachon, a veteran marketing force at Procter & Gamble, as chief Inc. as the face of the retailer’s new cosmetics line, called Pink Twinkle. marketing offi cer of the Limited’s Bath & Body Works division, a move expected Although the tween retailer, which is owned by Saks Inc., considered other per- to be announced on Friday. sonalities, Nicole Moret, Club Libby Lu’s director of marketing, said Tisdale, 21, Martin-Vachon will report to Neil Fiske, chief executive offi cer of Bath & Body was selected because she is a role model for the chain’s target audience, which is Works. “We are very excited to have Anne join the BBW team,” Fiske said in a state- predominantly made up of six- to 12-year-old girls. Tisdale appeared in the televi- ment. “I look forward to the focus and ex- sion movie “High School Musical,” which scored record ratings for the Disney chan- Anne pertise she will bring to our marketing nel when it originally aired on Jan. 20, and she also has a role on the series “The Martin- agenda. Anne will be an excellent partner Suite Life of Zack and Cody.” Vachon to our merchant and creative leaders, com- “What we wanted to do is put someone in place who embodies the brand,” Moret said. pleting a powerful team that is driving the “We know girls adore Ashley, and we really think they are inspired by her hard work.” transformation of Bath & Body Works.” Tisdale is the second Disney channel actress to sign on with Club Libby Lu, which As if to underscore its ambitions for ex- has 87 locations in the U.S. Christy Carlson Romano, who stars in “Even Stevens,” panding the Bath & Body Works market- helped create a plush version of her dog Chewy and related accessories for the chain ing attack in an effort to build the brand, last year. In a refl ection of Tisdale’s popularity with Club Libby Lu customers, 61 Limited executives pointed out that Martin- percent of participants in a Web site poll by the retailer cast their votes for Tisdale Vachon is the third powerful addition to when asked which celebrity they would most like to hang out with for a day. the team. Previously, the Limited recruited So far, Tisdale is slated to be the face of Pink Twinkle only for the line’s launch, ac- Camille McDonald, formerly of LVMH Moët cording to Moret. She would not elaborate on the terms of Club Libby Lu’s contract with Hennessy Louis Vuitton Tisdale or say if Club Libby Lu is seeking a long-term deal with and the Ralph Lauren the actress. “We do foresee the Pink Twinkle line staying whether Fragrances Division it is with Ashley or not,” said Moret. of L’Oréal USA, and BEAUTY BEAT Because Tisdale came on board late in the development Leslie Faust, who was process, Moret said Tisdale had limited input into Pink the lead beauty merchandising manager at Twinkle but added that Tisdale gave her blessing to the perfume’s sugar-sweet scent Neiman Marcus. McDonald is now the execu- and the tonal pink color palette. tive vice president of commercialization and Pink Twinkle is carried exclusively at Club Libby Lu locations and features lip brand-building at Bath & Body Works, and gloss, cosmetics cases, compacts, body glitter, perfume and makeup brushes, an as- Faust is senior vice president of fl agships. sortment that ranges in price from $4.50 to $24. The word “pink” — in that color At P&G, Martin-Vachon was vice presi- — is splashed across Pink Twinkle’s stone-encrusted metallic packaging. dent of global cosmetics and beauty mar- While the line experienced a soft launch this summer, fi rst hitting stores in keting, where she oversaw global cosmet- July, Pink Twinkle will offi cially be launched in November at a party at Disneyland ics brands as well as global marketing for with Tisdale in attendance. Club Libby Lu will introduce new items for the holiday all beauty categories. During more than season such as a gift set with lotion and perfume. Industry sources estimate Pink 20 years at P&G, Martin-Vachon worked Twinkle could generate $3 million in fi rst-year retail sales volume. In the last fi scal on Cover Girl, Max Factor, Olay, Ivory and year, Club Libby Lu generated $46 million in revenues, according to a Securities Crest, among others. and Exchange Commission fi ling. While she is moving into her new offi ce at Limited headquarters in Columbus, Moret described a wide-reaching marketing campaign for Pink Twinkle featuring Ohio, her old duties at P&G in Cincinnati have been allocated among several P&G Tisdale in ads on Radio Disney, direct mailings and in-store and online promotions. executives. For instance, Leigh Radford, general manager of global skin care, has as- Pink Twinkle cosmetics have their own fi xtures in stores that are placed “front and sumed responsibility for global marketing of P&G Beauty, and earlier this year, Esie center,” according to Moret. As with other Club Libby Lu products, customers are Eggleston-Bracey, former general manager, Deodorants/Old Spice, became general able to test the cosmetics before they purchase them. manager, North America, Cosmetics, overseeing brands such as Cover Girl and Max “We are an experiential marketer, and the Pink Twinkle line for us does provide Factor. No direct replacement has been named following Martin-Vachon’s departure. an experience,” Moret said. — With contributions from Molly Prior — Rachel Brown DHI45198_01A.indd 1 9/1/06 5:29:46 PM 6 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2006 Ralph’s Latest Take on Denim

JEANS HAVE ALWAYS PLAYED A PIVOTAL ROLE in Ralph Lauren’s life. There have been times when the designer chose to take his runway bow in head-to-toe denim, or when he has shown up at a black-tie affair accessorizing his dinner jacket with a pair of jeans and cowboy boots. Now, Polo Ralph Lauren is about to make a major strategic shift in its U.S. jeans business. After buying back the Polo Jeans Co. license from Jones Apparel Group for $355 million in February, the company will discontinue the brand domestically after the holiday season while maintaining it internationally. To recoup the lost business here, which sources estimate at about $200 million, the fashion company is bolstering the jeans assortment in the Lauren by Ralph Lauren and Polo Ralph Lauren divisions. For spring, Polo will launch the Lauren Jeans Co., which pushes the better-priced Lauren by Ralph Lauren brand of sportswear, activewear and accessories into the hot denim arena. Lauren has had denim looks in the past, but this will be a comprehensive, stand-alone launch. “We feel that within Lauren, we have the opportunity to extend her [the customer’s] lifestyle, utilizing the core brand name of Lauren that she identifi es with, understanding the fi t and adding denim,” said Kim Roy, president of Lauren by Ralph Lauren. “So many denim lines have been explosive in the contemporary world. When we decided to start building the Lauren Jeans Co., we wanted to make sure that the denim and lifestyle fi t the Lauren customer.” To that end, the Lauren Jeans Co. collection is better-priced and in line with Lauren’s sportswear, and will be housed in special, designated areas adjacent to Lauren sportswear shop-in-shops in better department stores. Slated to hit in February, it features a variety of Collection-inspired looks interpreted with a denim slant, from patchwork denim pants and skirts to mesh and lace camisoles, ruffl ed blouses, denim trenchcoats and washed and distressed leather jackets. One pair of distressed jeans comes with brushed paint effects, and blazers range from classic cuts to military-inspired looks. “It’s a new twist to something that has been taken right from Ralph’s heritage. This is a full lifestyle sportswear collection based on denim,” Roy said. “This line really speaks to the way Ralph feels about dressing. Even though it’s denim, there is a mix-and-match attitude to it.” The fi t of each piece will be consistent with Lauren’s other categories. “If she buys Lauren sportswear, she will have the comfort level that she can buy Lauren jeans and look great,” Roy said. “We feel it’s a tremendous opportunity to address our customer. There is a void for denim that is high in quality but has a very modern aesthetic and fi ts the misses’ customer.” Frank Doroff, senior executive vice president and general merchandise manager for ready-to- wear at Bloomingdale’s, hadn’t yet seen the line on Wednesday, but said: “There is a wide-open market for a great casual resource, particularly one with jeans. Everyone wants to wear denim today, and not everyone can fi t into contemporary premium denim. I am anticipating great-looking casual clothes and jeans in the Ralph Lauren aesthetic. We are already doing so well with Lauren, and selling the premium jeans on the current Lauren line, that I have to think this will be way better than that.” In department stores, two of the core vendors in status denim areas are DKNY Jeans and Calvin Klein Jeans, and Lauren Jeans Co. is likely to compete with these brands. “With Polo going international and Tommy Hilfi ger relaunching under new management, there is presently an opportunity for another denim vendor,” said Andrea Goldreyer, a market analyst for better sportswear at the Doneger Group, the large buying offi ce in New York. “There are defi nitely some voids there.” STEVE EICHNER AND HEARST WERBOWY AND CHIQUET BY DAVIS ERICKSEN; CHIMINAZZO AND STAM, KYLE PHOTOS BY The Lauren business overall, Goldreyer added, has done “exceptionally well” since Polo took the license back from Jones in the athletic label unveiled at retail in spring 2005. That line initially launched in 2003 and relaunched the collection in a more upscale manner. “It has been one about 100 doors in its fi rst season, including Bloomingdale’s and Marshall Fields, of the retailer’s best performers in the better zone...an excellent business for us,” and was increased to about 150 doors in its second season. Goldreyer said. Roy declined to give sales projections for the Lauren Jeans Co., or information Wholesale prices for Lauren Jeans Co. range from $40 to $70 for jeans, $30 to on the Lauren business as a whole, but according to industry sources, Polo’s better $70 for woven shirts and bottoms, $20 to $45 for knits, $35 to $80 for sweaters and brand has annual sales of between $450 million and $500 million. $60 to $250 for outerwear. In the launch season, the distribution targets the top According to Roy, creating Lauren Jeans Co. was the natural next move. “Ralph tier Lauren sportswear doors, with plans to expand the distribution in seasons to has always had a passion for dressing every lifestyle need of our lady, from black tie come. Currently, Lauren sportswear is available in over 900 doors including Macy’s, to the most casual,” Roy said. “He has also always had a real passion for denim and Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. While Roy declined to give specifi c details on the its authenticity. For us, it’s a fabulous opportunity to build on the Lauren brand and launch and distribution strategy, it could mirror the introduction of Lauren Active, continue to maximize on every opportunity while addressing all her lifestyle needs.” WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2006 7 WWD.COM

will accompany each giveaway with an illustrated bookmark offering tips on how to wear the silhouette. Just what the fashion-challenged will need.

Fashion Scoops PHILIP SQUARED: No, they don’t have the same star sign, but they do have a lot in common — including a name. New York jeweler Philip Crangi has collaborated with contemporary designer Phillip Lim on jewelry THE CHANEL CHANNEL: Fashion week got an early kickoff for his spring presentation on Sunday. Crangi contributed styles from Tuesday night when Chanel and model Daria Werbowy his Academie line, which is made of beaded doré bronze, and created hosted the premiere of “Signé Chanel,” a behind-the- additional beaded bangles and collars in blackened bronze to complement scenes documentary of the making of the fall-winter 2004 Lim’s looks, which incorporate eyelet fabrics with touches of navy blue and haute couture collection. An eclectic group of Chanel gold accents. “It’s really inspiring to work with someone when you’re trying devotees, including Amanda Brooks, Cecilia Dean, Steven to get to a similar place,” added Crangi. “Phillip really has clear point of Gan, Marjorie Raien, Thelma Golden and Alison Sarofi m, view on what he’s trying to do and I really enjoy that. This could be the joined Chanel president and chief operating offi cer beginning of something interesting.” Maureen Chiquet in the screening room of The Core Club to watch two of the fi ve-part series, which airs tonight on the AERIE MAKES MUSIC: A music video for Ben Lee’s Jeisa Sundance Channel. If a fashion party wasn’t a convincing single, “Since I Met You,” shows a girl sitting on Chiminazzo enough sign of fall, the drizzly weather outside signaled her bed listening (presumably) to Ben Lee on her in Lanvin with a sure end to summer and the beginning of school for iPod. But there’s more to the scene than meets the Jessica Stam students Amanda Hearst and Luigi Tadini, who are starting eye. The girl, a model for aerie, American Eagle in vintage. their senior years at Fordham and NYU, respectively. “I Outfi tters’ new subbrand, which bowed in stores was happy for the weather,” said Hearst, who was clad in Thursday, is dressed in the label’s comfy dormwear. a long-sleeved Chanel look. “I like fall clothes.” Lee is a featured artist in the aerie music series, Munching on possibly the chicest movie snack ever whose goal, according to Kathy Savitt, AE’s chief — Chanel-logoed bags of popcorn — the audience was marketing offi cer, is identifying emerging and greeted by Sundance Channel ceo Larry Aidem, who independent musicians. “Over the next year we’ll be joked: “I was talking to Robert Redford this afternoon, and selecting a half-dozen unique artists,” Savitt said. Sia sings for aerie. we’ve decided that we are dropping an ‘n’ from channel, “We’re really a platform.” so we will now be known as Sundance Chanel.” The aerie series is premiering exclusive tracks and Up on screen, fi lmmaker Loïc Prignet revealed the music videos on aerie.com and offering the selections humor and frustration of a collection as Karl Lagerfeld for free downloading. “Since,” Lee’s exclusive single Lauren Davis alternately charmed, cajoled and commanded his staff for aerie, and “Pictures,” an exclusive single for aerie in Giambattista to produce his seemingly impossible designs. For some, by Sia, were released Thursday on the Web site. To Valli and such as designers Peter Som and Rachel Roy, who were kick off the series, Lee performed live at AE’s Union Amanda Hearst taking a break from preparing their own collections, it was Square store in Manhattan Thursday night. Aerie is in Chanel. a little close to home. “Usually this would be a diversion,” releasing a special edition of Lee’s CD, “Awake Is said stylist Tina Chai, who arrived with Som, “but right the New Sleep,” which includes “Since” and artist now it’s just making me feel like I should be working.” interviews. Sia’s CD, “Colour the Small One,” will be offered as a special bonus CD with “Pictures.” Aerie artist Ben Lee. JAGGER IN THE HOUSE: Contrary to industry talk, Garrard is sticking with its rock-star kin creative director Jade Jagger. SHOW RESHUFFLE: While the works of art at London’s Royal Academy of Rumor had it the jewelry company was looking to replace Arts might have escaped damage in a fi re at the museum last week, the Jagger — whose contract expired in June — with fellow blaze has forced the shows of brands such as Allegra Hicks, Gardem Londoner, jewelry designer Stephen Webster, whose Gothic- Paris and Alice McCall to be relocated. The shows were to be part of looking fi ne jewelry pieces have been worn by Madonna, the On/Off schedule, which holds shows and static exhibitions in a Johnny Depp and Sir Elton John. A spokeswoman for Garrard space behind the Royal Academy, the area that was most affected by said the fi rm is in negotiations to renew Jagger’s contract the fi re. Now the On/Off shows will take place at the Royal Horticultural and is not in discussions with Webster. Jagger took on the Halls. “Our main objective was to be able to continue to support the Garrard role in 2001 and gave the musty British house a designers,” said Lee Lapthorpe, founder of On/Off. “Our industry contacts Daria Werbowy dose of hipster cool with oversize pavé diamond pendants were really supportive.” and Maureen and diamond-encrusted knuckle rings, the likes of which A spokesman for Le Book, the fashion industry directory, said the Chiquet have been worn by Beyoncé Knowles and Lenny Kravitz. company had yet to confi rm if its Connections trade show would be held at the venue Sept. 27 and 28, or move to a new location. However, The GLOBAL PARTY: New York Fashion Week used to be all about American Royal Academy said its upcoming USA Today exhibition, which will host designers, but these days the Europeans want in on the action, too. Jean the works of 40 American artists in collaboration with the Saatchi Gallery, Paul Gaultier jetted in from Paris to party at Bergdorf Goodman Wednesday is expected to open as planned Oct. 6. night and Balenciaga and Prada are throwing exclusive fetes on Friday. For its part, Prada has invited The Raconteurs, Jack White’s new band, which CLAUDIA’S NEW ACCESSORIES: most recently performed with guest vocalist Lou Reed at the VMAs, to play Claudia Schiffer is the latest of at its SoHo store. Expected guests include hot Hollywooders such as Jared the supermodel clan to make an Leto, Mischa Barton, Lisa Marie Presley, Riley Keough and Eva Mendes. appearance in a fall campaign. The German model will be BURT THE SUPERSTAR: Fashion Group International will honor Burt Tansky, featured in the in-store ads and chief executive offi cer of Neiman Marcus Group, with this year’s Superstar window displays for Accessorize, Award at its annual Night of Stars gala. Tansky joins an illustrious group: the London-based accessories Previous Superstar honorees include Valentino, Donna Karan, Giorgio Armani, chain, which is part of the Tom Ford, the Estée Lauder family and Suzy Menkes. The event, themed Monsoon apparel group. “Claudia “The Visionariesm,” will take place at Cipriani 42nd Street on Oct. 26. was a natural choice to be the Other honorees that evening include Consuelo Castiglione of Marni, Carolina face of Accessorize,” said Peter Herrera, Yves Saint Laurent’s Stefano Pilati, Aerin Lauder, Ruben and Isabel Simon, founder of Accessorize. Toledo, stylist Rachel Zoe, the Washington Post’s Robin Givhan and architect “[She] captures the essence of Thom Mayne of Morphosis. the Accessorize brand — vibrant, fun and energetic.” The Jonathan STERLING SATCHELS: It’s not that New Bookallil-lensed campaign casts York jeweler Kara Ross has grown tired Schiffer in Studio 54 mode, of creating her signature jeweled-jet sporting sequined tube tops, Maltese crosses and rock-crystal cocktail Lurex leggings and, in one shot, rings — she’s just exploring her options. sporting nothing but gold paint Claudia Schiffer The 40-year-old jeweler, who started — and accessories, naturally. for Accessorize. her eponymous collection in 1993, is The chain also has created a launching her fi rst handbag collection gold-sequined purse to mark for spring. The 10-piece line boasts A bag by Schiffer’s campaign, called the exotic skin clutches in combinations of Kara Ross. Claudia Clutch, which retails at crocodile and ring lizard, fi nished with approximately $85. a topaz or rose quartz clasp that takes its inspiration from one of Ross’ signature earrings and a white ostrich satchel with polished gold hardware. MODERN TIMES: Changes are afoot The line, which hits Bergdorf Goodman in November and Saks Fifth at last at El Corte Inglés, Spain’s Avenue in the spring, wholesales from $900 to $5,000. “I’ve always loved largest department store chain. handbags and I thought I’d give it a try,” said Ross, who has been working Come next spring, the retailer’s on the line for two years. “They’re really beautiful and interesting. Mixing staff will get to retire its current the skins and gemstones makes them luxurious — and the quality is that uniform — in particular, the of a D-fl awless diamond.” ubiquitous knee-hovering navy skirt — for, surprise, pants. Details HUE TO GO: Pretzel, hot dog and soda vendors may need to make room are under wraps, but a spokesman for Hue during New York Fashion Week. The legwear fi rm is wheeling its said the change is for additional own colorful carts into Bryant Park and other nearby locales in a two-day comfort. “The discretion and event in which it will distribute nearly 7,000 pairs of footless tights to usefulness [of pants] covers all passersby. The event, which takes place Friday and Sunday, is part of the the necessities and situations that fi rm’s efforts to make sure leggings remain the hot accessory item they our female sales personnel might encounter,” he clarifi ed. The new duds are have been this summer well into fall and spring. Hue plans on distributing being designed and produced by Induyco, the Madrid-based manufacturing the tights in colors such as espresso brown, apple red and eggplant, and arm of El Corte Inglés and its major apparel supplier. 8 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2006 WWD.COM LVMH Net Soars, Arnault Optimistic Continued from page one said organic sales continued to grow at a double-digit pace Bernard Arnault in July and August, including for the cash cow Louis Vuitton brand. He also assured that a slate of product launches, such as iconic Vuitton leather goods and high-end Tag Heuer watches, would drive sales through the balance of the year. “We’ve increased our market share in all our busi- nesses,” Arnault told an audience of analysts and jour- nalists at LVMH headquarters here as images of the com- pany’s celebrity-studded ad campaigns fl ashed behind him on giant screens. “The outstanding performance shows our growth model is particularly effective.” Operating profi ts at the French fi rm increased 35 per- cent in the half to 1.26 billion euros, or $1.55 billion at average exchange, as sales rose 12.9 percent to 6.97 bil- lion euros, or $8.57 billion. Arnault reiterated an objective of a “very signifi cant” increase in results for the full year and trumpeted a goal to double the group’s profi tability in fi ve years. By category, watches and jewelry logged the biggest gains in profi ts from recurring operations, zooming 164 percent to 37 million euros, or $45.5 million. Perfumes and cosmetics also had a stellar half, with profi ts up 80 percent to 79 million euros, or $97.1 million, thanks to products such as Dior Capture Totale skin cream, pitched in ads by actress Sharon Stone. “You ladies in the room may be too young to try it, but have a go anyway,” Arnault said with a sly smile. The LVMH chief, who has likened Vuitton to Micro- soft, reined in the hyperbole Wednesday, but still touted the “dynamic” wines and spirits business and Vuitton’s “remarkable” performance. He also boasted that LVMH shaved 1.3 billion euros, or $1.59 billion, off its debt last year to 4.61 billion euros, or $5.67 billion. “Soon it will disappear at this rate,” he quipped. However, Arnault made no mention of acquisitions for LVMH. “The best available strategy to us is to strengthen the brands that we own. Many of these brands have enormous potential,” he said, mentioning the likes of Loewe, Pucci, Celine and Donna Karan. During a brief question-and-answer ses- sion, Arnault initially skirted questions about Donna Karan, where a management change is expected and brand rejuvenation has been slow. “A number of plans are in the cards. At this stage, we’re just talking, so we’re not in a po- sition to disclose any details,” he said. Later, he added, “Donna Karan can become a Ralph Lauren. There are only three star brands in the United States and that is surely one of them.” Praising Karl Lagerfeld’s design prowess at Fendi, he said the Roman house would continue to improve its profi tability as store renovations and strong collections of ready-to-wear and handbags goose sales. “Very soon we will top the 20 percent mark of profi tability,” Arnault said. Profi ts in the fashion and leather goods di- vision rose 13 percent in the half to 742 million The Vuitton brand was strong, and perfumes and cosmetics also had a stellar half, with profi ts rising 80 percent. euros, or $912.4 million. Arnault’s other principle boast was that LVMH shelters the best collection of lux- In previews of the results, analysts highlighted an easy base of comparison, given ury managers in the industry, which is why unspecifi ed competitors continue to try, major investments last year in the giant Vuitton fl agship in Paris, a positive benefi t albeit unsuccessfully, to poach them. “And when they succeed in taking anyone away from currencies and a charge last year related to the closing of the Samaritaine de- from us, it’s not necessarily the right people,” Arnault said, prompting a round of partment store for safety improvements. knowing chuckles among the LVMH brass. Analysts are expecting a strong earnings season from European luxury fi rms, and Highlighting a strong performance by Sephora in Europe and the U.S., LVMH said believe the sector will be resilient to a potential slowdown in the global economy. profi ts in the group’s selective retailing division rose 24 percent to 147 million euros, However, the currency situation has become less favorable and the U.S. dollar and or $180.8 million. Japanese yen are weaker against the euro, warned HSBC analysts Antoine Belge and Antonio Belloni, group managing director, said LVMH would seek to minimize the im- Erwan Rambourg in a recent note. pact of increased security measures at airports that have dented sales of duty free liquors “The luxury goods industry should continue to demonstrate its ability to outper- and perfumes, but did not give specifi cs. Meanwhile, the French group is aiming to cap- form most consumer and retail segments owing to its lower correlation with GDP,” the ture the fast-growing Chinese clientele and upgrade its product assortments, he added. HSBC report said. Analysts voiced concern about a dip in profi tability in the wines and spirits divi- But the sector is exposed to dollar-pegged economies and Japan “in terms of sales, sion, where profi ts from recurring operations gained 11 percent to 355 million euros, while costs are mainly denominated in euros and Swiss francs.” or $436.5 million. LVMH blamed this on currency effects and higher investments in Separately on Wednesday, Christian Dior SA, parent of LVMH and Christian Dior markets such as China. Couture, reported earnings largely in line with LVMH’s. The Dior fashion house said But overall, the numbers, released after the close of trading on the French Bourse, operating profi ts in the half totaled 8 million euros, or $9.8 million, refl ecting heavy met market expectations. investments in eight new boutiques and an unfavorable currency situation.

from specialty retailers.” success,” Parsons, who graduated from Parsons was a senior vice president Smith College with a bachelor’s degree Liz Claiborne Apparel Names President and general merchandising manager at in art history, said in a statement. Tommy Hilfi ger, leading the H Hilfi ger The Liz Claiborne better sportswear By Whitney Beckett tion in the Liz Claiborne apparel busi- division. Previously, she spent eight brand, which generates an estimated ness,” said Pamela Thomas-Graham, years in merchandising at J. Crew, in- $1 billion in annual sales, or about one- LIZ CLAIBORNE INC. HAS APPOINTED group president, better and moderate cluding as head merchant in the direct quarter of the company’s $4.85 billion Michele Parsons, a former executive apparel for Liz Claiborne Inc., to whom division. Her early experience included portfolio, has gotten a makeover for its at Tommy Hilfiger, as president and Parsons will report. “We are focusing jobs at Ann Taylor, Victoria’s Secret and 30th birthday. chief merchandising officer for the Liz on elevating the brand, and Michele is Liz Claiborne’s retail division. The revamp began in March 2005 Claiborne Apparel business. bringing a merchant’s eye from special- “I am very excited to be joining one with the hiring of a new creative direc- Parsons will oversee all design and ty retail that will help our business, as of the most iconic American brands, tor, Richard Ostell, who has a design merchandising activities for the Liz a wholesaler, be even more innovative. and look forward to building upon the background. He worked for Nicole Claiborne brand, starting Sept. 25. We are selling in the department store Liz Claiborne legacy as we evolve and Farhi and was a partner at Flyte Ostell, “This is another step in our evolu- channel, but I think we can learn a lot position the brand for future growth and a London-based fashion house. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2006 9 WWD.COM

Denim Dish Guess Who’s 25? Guess is turning 25 in style. The Los Angeles-based denim and sportswear brand arrived in New York on Tuesday to celebrate a quarter-cen- Swat Fame Adds Division tury in business, packing downtown’s When Mitchell Quaranta, co-owner of Swat Fame, trendy club Capitale with some 600 launched a denim line, See Thru Soul, almost two partygoers. Guests were treated to years ago, he had no idea where it would bring him. live musical performances by English The collection was well received at retail, fi ll- pop singer Natasha Bedingfi eld and ing a niche for contemporary jeans at a lower price Scottish import KT Tunstall, as they point than many of the other denim lines on the viewed the live vignettes inspired by market. The line is now sold at major department past Guess advertising campaigns in a and specialty stores nationwide, including Macy’s gallery setting. and Nordstrom. “This is really a celebration of “This line has been really successful for us,” the new life of Guess,” said Maurice Quaranta said. “The target customer is a working Marciano, who founded Guess with girl who just doesn’t choose to spend $200 on a pair his brother, Paul. “There are some of jeans.” great new developments happening in See Thru Soul retails from $68 to $78 and this company, with even more More than 600 guests Quaranta said that while the initial appeal may be retail locations and huge growth packed Capitale. the lower price, it’s the “butt-lifter” fi t that keeps internationally.” customers buying. Marciano said that when Guess The success of See Thru Soul has led Quaranta launched “not in my wildest dreams” did he think the com- One of the live to further explore the denim business. Already sea- pany would grow to be so large. vignettes inspired by a soned in the junior market with a sportswear and Even though Guess’ roots are in Los Angeles, Marciano past Guess campaign. dress line called Speechless, Swat Fame opened a said New York was the best choice for a celebration. denim division in order to bring in new brands. “I love L.A., I’ve lived there for 25 years,” he said. “But “The days of having just one brand are over,” he New York is where fashion is. It’s closer to Europe than said. “In order to stay in business, you have to have we are in L.A. New York is special like that.” more to offer across all tiers and price points.” Some famous faces at the event included “Laguna To add to the division, Swat Fame has launched Beach” star Kristin Cavalleri, who wore a one-of-a-kind Underground Soul, a denim collection for juniors Guess dress designed just for her. Bedingfi eld also wore a and children. The line had a test launch at J.C. custom-made Guess gown on the red carpet, but changed Penney stores for back-to-school. The jeans retail into a more casual look for her performance. Among those for $38, and are meant for midtier department and attending were pop singer Nelly Furtado and former specialty stores. For holiday, the company is plan- Nicole Richie fl ame DJ AM. ning to ship the line to other stores, such as Mandee Guess had even more to celebrate. The $936 million and Gottschalks. apparel company has been one of the best-performing Also being introduced for holiday is Bu From retail stocks recently and now operates some 320 stores in Malibu, another more contemporary jeans line, North America. with Nordstrom. The collection, Quaranta said, is — Julee Greenberg made with a young college girl in mind. The jeans are casual, but come with a close-to-the-body fi t and a low rise. Bu From Malibu’s average retail price is around $48. Indigo Royalty is the fourth line the company has started in its denim division. Made for a ju- nior customer, Quaranta said he hopes to see the brand competing with market mainstays like LEI and Mudd. He said the brand’s average retail sits at around $40 a pair and is focused around basics and fashion pieces, with up-to-date washes and embel- lishments being key. Finally, Quaranta said he is launching Kut From the Kloth, a misses’ jeans line with a contemporary feel. The collection is being introduced next month, exclusively with Nordstrom. “This line is like See Thru Soul, but with a miss- es’ fi t,” he said. “These are basic jeans with hip AG and HBO Team Up washes and a great fi t for a true woman’s body.” AG Adriano Goldschmied wants to outfi t an entourage, The line will retail for about $78 to $88 a pair, and then some. and includes a full range of styles from boot-cut and The Los Angeles-based premium denim company straight-leg jeans to skirts and skinny jeans. has teamed with HBO to help make the network’s “All of these brands work off of the mother brand, hit series “Entourage” into a full lifestyle brand. The See Thru Soul,” Quaranta said. “In order to com- result is a full women’s and men’s denim jeans and pete in all stores, you have to fi gure out how to mul- sportswear brand called AG for Entourage. tibrand, which is what we’ve done at Swat Fame.” “Entourage,’’ with Mark Wahlberg as executive pro- Quaranta said the Speechless line brings in ducer, takes viewers into the lives of Vincent “Vince” around $90 million at wholesale annually. Within Chase, a hot young actor in Hollywood, his three-mem- the fi rst year, the new denim division is expected to ber entourage and his agent. generate sales of about $45 million. Launching for spring, the collection includes — J.G. jeans, T-shirts, jackets, woven tops and leather belts. Wholesaling from $26 to $78, the company is targeting Natasha Bedingfi eld Underground Soul upscale specialty boutiques and select department and Kristin Cavalleri stores. In addition, the line will be sold in AG free- standing stores. To differentiate between AG’s core line and the Entourage collection, AG for Entourage will offer new washes on denim and T-shirt designs. The company will also introduce new fabrics into the collection, which will be infl uenced by what the characters on the show wear. The line will be recognizable by the show’s signature star symbol within the Entourage logo. It will be worked into each piece, either on the rivet on a pair of jeans or on the button of a shirt. “This is all a part of HBO’s idea to position Entourage as a lifestyle brand,” said Alissa Friedman, marketing

and advertising manager for AG Adriano ZACK SECKLER PHOTOS BY Goldschmied. “[The show] is the hip and current direction in which one can drive their entire lifestyle, the guide on what’s hot in technology, cars, res- taurants, clubs and, most importantly, what’s hip in fashion. Since you can’t A T-shirt design be them, the least you can do is dress Maurice Marciano from AG like them.” and his wife, Natalie. Nelly Furtado Indigo Royalty Bu From Malibu for Entourage.

PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY — J.G. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2006 WWD.COM The Beat Tibi Sets Up Shop on Wooster Street

By Julee Greenberg The Tibi fl agship was NEW YORK — Amy Smilovic is fairly calm for a designer who is sending still a construction site two kids off to school (one for the first time) and planning a runway show on Tuesday morning. for a 9 a.m. slot on Sept. 12 during New York Fashion Week. But that’s not all. The Tibi designer is also opening her fi rst store, a fl agship, at 120 Wooster Street, on Friday. “I was just at home thinking about chicken nuggets for my son’s lunch,” Smilovic said, entering the store, which is still a con- struction site fi lled with painters and contractors. The 2,200-square-foot space is large for a contemporary designer’s store, but Smilovic is making it work. It will house the full Tibi collection, known for its signature playful and girly scarf prints on everything from dresses and skirts to tops and swimwear. The store will also serve as a sort of art gallery, with an elab- orate green-and-black fl oral mural Amy on part of the walls and ceiling, done Smilovic by local artist Ryan Good. at the “I studied art and my dad is an art- new ist, so it has always been a big part of store. my life,” Smilovic said. “I want the store CENTENO TALAYA PHOTOS BY to have color and boldness, but be chic, around the room and a mirror in each room...and the clean and modern at the same time.” natural light is also really important.” On Tuesday, the store was still being put to- As an added touch, Smilovic is having a “very mod- gether, but Smilovic explained what was to become ern” playpen placed near the dressing rooms to make of the space. Designed by architects Steve Blatz and trying things on easier for shopping moms. The toys Antonio Pio Saracino of archLAB studio, the store in the playpen are being provided by Tibi’s next door will have a large chandelier hanging over a set of neighbor, Giggle, a children’s boutique. black-and-white checkered couches in the center. “As a mom myself, I would love to see that in a The couches will surround a large white table cre- store. It would make life so much easier,” she said. ated by Los Angeles-based designer Byron Stripling, “And we really do get a lot of moms shopping Tibi.” while a large rug in a giraffe print, designed by As an entrance into a Tibi home line, Smilovic Smilovic, will be on the fl oor. The store will also will design custom rugs, which will be exclusive to have bursts of color, as in the bright yellow lacquer the store. There are fi ve prints and an array of colors tables spread throughout and the equally bright yel- from which customers can choose. low tiles in the bathroom. On the basement level, which is also 2,200 square “I wanted it so that you open the bathroom door feet, Tibi’s sample room is fi lled with workers, sew- and there is this burst of color,” Smilovic explained. ing away. “But it’s still done in this modern way.” “I wanted them to be in the store so they could The three dressing rooms each come with a win- see their product upstairs and also be inspired to dow (and a shade for privacy, of course) as well as a create some new things just for the store,” she said. skylight above for natural light. “The store can be treated like a testing ground in “The dressing rooms are really important. Steve that way.” and Antonio really believe in a luxe dressing room Frank Smilovic, Amy’s husband and president of experience, which I love,” Smilovic said. “There Tibi, said he expects the store to bring in between $2 will be an off-white curtain that drapes all the way A rendering of the Tibi store. million and $3 million in the fi rst year. It’s Showtime for Alexander Wang NEW YORK — In fall 2004, a then-20-year-old Alexander are pleated bloomer shorts, billowy silk georgette Wang was going store to store pitching his debut collec- tanks, cropped jackets, dresses with lamé piping and tion of cashmere sweaters and tops out even leopard-print trousers, all whole- of a little rollaway suitcase. A spring sale priced from $60 to $235. “They didn’t even want to see us,” look from “I couldn’t believe how fast he devel- recalled the designer. “They would tell Alexander oped a full collection,” said Julie Gilhart, us that the buyer wasn’t there when we Wang. senior vice president and fashion direc- knew we were talking to her. It’s funny tor of Barneys New York, one of the few because now we have stores calling us, to preview the line. “It’s like he went

the same ones that turned us down.” from A to Z. The dresses are all great, ANTONOV PAVEL PHOTO BY Indeed, much has happened since the the tiny delicate detailing is sweet, and, Alexander Wang prepares his spring collection. lanky Taiwanese designer began making of course, the knits are superb.” rette pants that retains memory when you distress and those initial rounds. Fast-forward to now, “It’s kind of like a classic, eclectic wear it. Silk crepe de chine fabrics are embossed with for instance. It’s a week before New York tomboy,” said the former intern to Marc a “rhino” print, while jacquards take on a snakeskin Fashion Week. Wang, once based in his Jacobs and Derek Lam. “It’s offbeat but texture. Even something as simple as a Peter Pan collar hometown of San Francisco, is putting still recognizable and tomboy in the sense is made novel — “it’s turned this way and that,” made the fi nal touches on his spring collec- that it’s not too pretty-pretty, but defi nitely more languid and organic, like an orchid, he explained. tion from his newly minted studio in the shows a feminine fl air.” He paused, then And fans of his knitwear shouldn’t lose heart. Flatiron district. Models fl it in and out added, “Does that make sense?” The designer is splitting his eponymous label into for fi ttings. Polaroids are snapped; the The designer pointed to his muse for Alexander Wang and Alexander Wang Tricot. “It’s two completed looks, ordered and assessed. clarifi cation — the M.O.D., or model-off- separate collections, but they work together,” he ex- Today, he’ll stage his fi rst presen- duty. “I’ve always referenced that and plained. “It’s the same price point, same everything. tation in a former dance studio on used that phrase with all my friends,” We didn’t want to lose our old customer.” Broadway in SoHo. His old high school he said. “I’ve admired that kind of nat- Still, the upcoming spring collection marks quite a friend, Victoria Traina, is styling. “I’m ural, tossed-out look, like walking out new direction for the 22-year-old designer, and a re- so nervous,” he admitted, “excited and so scared.” of bed with messy hair, a dirty pair of sneakers and a cent episode in Los Angeles provided an auspicious Wang has plenty to be nervous about — after four Versace dress on. I don’t like things when they’re too sign to affi rm that. Two years after launching his line, seasons of building a steady business on his signa- perfect or put together.” To be sure, there’s a certain Wang fi nally saw someone in the streets wearing his ture knits, which sell at stores such as Barneys New nonchalance to Wang’s new collection. It’s Kate Moss- designs. “I had always heard from my friends about York and Linda Dresner in Manhattan, the designer is meets-Erin Wasson-meets-Lou Doillon, as he put it. people wearing my stuff, but I had never seen it my- launching a full ready-to-wear collection. It’s a far cry But for all the thrown-together ease to his clothes, the self. To actually see somebody in real life,” he said, from the cashmere basics and witty intarsia pullovers collection isn’t without its sophisticated innovations. He “wow, it was the biggest compliment.” with which his name has become synonymous. There uses, for example, a wax mudcloth in blazers and ciga- — Venessa Lau trends into knowledge. intoknowledge. trends numbers andsportswear news,Globally translating Close: Issue:Next executive, Milan, at39-02-7600-3926. Elizabeth Haynes, European advertising director, Paris, at 33-1-44-51-13-03, orElena DeGiuli, account New York, at 212-630-4636; Levy, Deborah senior at account executive, 323-965-7283; Coast, West For moreinformation, Gus Floris, contact publisher, associate denim and young contemporary, September 14 October 19 WWD 20,000 MediaWorldwide Bonus distributionto retail decision-makers in Europe, inEurope, decision-makers retail ® Asia andSouthAmerica. WWD WWD Style StartsHere ™

PHOTO BY PATRICK KATZMAN 12 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2006 WWD.COM

Mixing glimmering neutrals with vibrant splashes of color is a potent tonic. That’s the palette message given by New York Fashion Week designers, TheWWDList surveyed by the Pantone Color Institute, who offered their preferred colors for spring. “People want to customize color and be more creative,” explained Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of Pantone Color Institute. “They don’t want to look cookie-cutter.” Using this palette of 10 colors, looks, designs and patterns can be mixed, she added. Of course, many colors such as Opal Gray, Sky Blue and Golden Apricot have evolved from season to season. Cool Spring “Rather than doing away with a color, designers infuse it with newness, tweaking it out,” she added. — Constance Gustke Top Pantone colors chosen by New York designers for spring 2007.

PANTONE 16-1720 STRAWBERRY ICE Chosen by 17.7 percent of designers Warm yet fresh feeling, Strawberry Ice leads the color pack for spring. “It’s a wonderful cleansing direction,” said Leatrice Eiseman of the Pantone Color Institute. “Strawberry Ice is nurturing and brings a blush to the skin, like when putting rouge on.” She noted the light coral tone also 1 paradoxically has a cool feeling. Betsey Johnson, whose signature color is boudoir blush, favors Strawberry Ice in her baby-doll dresses for spring.

PANTONE 16-3801 OPAL GRAY 14.1 percent A variation of fall’s Frost Gray, this dependable, glimmering color works well when layering or combining colors. “Gray has come back into the picture again,” explained Eiseman. “It’s an unexpected neutral. When people invest in new colors, they want one to act as a background.” Y & Kei 2 and Tracy Reese, who mixes and matches colors, are applying Opal Gray to their spring collections.

PANTONE 14-4318 SKY BLUE 13.5 percent Famous for its serenity and calming effect, this soft color has evolved over time. It’s favored by Elie Tahari and Akiko Ogawa, who fi nds her inspiration in the oceans near Indonesia and Marrakech, Morocco. “People have rediscovered blue,” said Eiseman, calling Sky Blue dependable but 3 optimistic. “When we see a beautiful sky, it means we’re going to have a beautiful day. “

PANTONE 14-1041 GOLDEN APRICOT 10.6 percent “A delicious yellow with orange undertones” is Eiseman’s take on the warmth of Golden Apricot. “People often have problems with yellow, and it’s a tougher color to bring into play.” Nicole Miller plays the shade against other vibrant colors in her cutaway gowns for spring. The color also works 4 well with pants, added Eiseman.

PANTONE 16-1220 CAFE CREME 10 percent Rich and creamy like its name, Café Crème traces its lineage to the brown shade. “There have been variations for several seasons now,” said Eiseman. “There’s an earthiness that’s implied, too, with Café Crème. It’s very warm and appealing, offering a good basic background.” Another 5 plus: Café Crème looks like a refreshing version of the coffee we drink in fall or winter, she added. James Coviello, whose color philosophy partly mixes neutrals with bold color, chose the hue for his shorts suits.

PANTONE 12-1206 SILVER PEONY 8.8 percent A designer who’s inspired by Georgia O’Keeffe’s paintings, Carmen Marc Valvo applied Silver Peony to his strapless cocktail dress. “It’s another fl attering noncolor because it’s so light on every skin tone,” explained Eiseman. “When in doubt, people will go to colors in their wardrobes that 6 aren’t too bold or bright.” She called it a neutral beyond beige, a cross between pink and rose.

PANTONE 15-0326 TARRAGON 8.2 percent This homage to springtime is very soothing and relaxing, said Eiseman. Reem Acra, whose signature color is pomegranate, turned toward Tarragon for her frocks. The shade isn’t acidic or bright, Eiseman said. “Today the important word is to appear natural, not synthetic,” she 7 explained. “And Tarragon is subtle with a freshness attached to it.”

PANTONE 13-0648 GREEN SHEEN 7.1 percent To lend pop to their Sixties-inspired designs, Cynthia Steffe and Peter Som, who favors Marigold Yellow, turned to Green Sheen. “It’s a softer 8 offshoot of lime, smart and good. The perfect color to bridge the gap,” said Eiseman. “It acknowledges that yellow is a fresh, new look.”

PANTONE 19-2924 HOLLYHOCK 5.3 percent Playing off fall’s blue-infused purple, Hollyhock adds more red to the mix. “That red purple brings more excitement,” Eiseman said. “It’s very 9 active and outgoing.” She added that purple is a complex color that’s artistic and creative, adding personality to colors like gray or sand.

PANTONE 16-3929 GRAPEMIST 4.7 percent Soothing but not boring is Eiseman’s description of this offshoot of blue. “It’s more complex than Sky Blue, because it has a lavender undertone,” 10 added Eiseman. No wonder that Douglas Hannant, who favors Lapis Blue, chose Grapemist as his must-have color for spring.

SOURCE: PANTONE FASHION COLOR REPORT SPRING 2007. PANTONE COLORS DISPLAYED HERE MAY NOT MATCH PANTONE®-IDENTIFIED SOLID COLOR STANDARDS. CONSULT CURRENT PANTONE FOR FASHION AND HOME COLOR SYSTEM® PUBLICATIONS FOR ACCURATE COLOR. PANTONE® AND OTHER PANTONE INC. TRADEMARKS ARE THE PROPERTY OF PANTONE INC.© PANTONE INC. 2006. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2006 13 WWD.COM

slammed me to the mat again and again,” he writes of his experience with the interactive magazine. First Martin + Osa Unit Dennis, however, does concede that money isn’t MEMO PAD everything. “Becoming rich does not guarantee happiness. In fact, it is almost certain to impose FELIX THE WISE: Felix Dennis’ magazines — which the opposite condition — if not from the stress Has Outdoor Feel Inside include Maxim, Stuff and Bizarre — aren’t known and strains of protecting it, then from the guilt that for their subtlety, so it’s no surprise the British inevitably accompanies its arrival,” he laments. By Kristi Ellis publisher’s latest book, “How to Get Rich,” makes Perhaps that’s why he’s endowed that tree reserve its objective crystal clear. in England. — Nina Jones WASHINGTON — The Dennis’ guide to achieving wealth on a par only thing missing from with his own — with an estimated worth of $1.36 FASHION ONE: Add another magazine to the ranks American Eagle’s new billion, he’s been named as Britain’s 84th richest of those looking to beef up their fashion coverage retail concept, Martin + man — is tipped by the author as being the — and presumably, their fashion advertising. Self Osa, is an authentic wa- opposite of “messianic self-improvement manuals.” has named Hedy Gold as its new senior accessories terfall, a picnic table and He does offer helpful tidbits, editor, replacing Rachel Ezrin, who a grizzly bear or two. though, including a diktat about left the position a few weeks ago. Otherwise, the first parting with business ventures, Gold said she has been freelancing Martin + Osa store, which which is anything but sentimental. for the magazine and was hired to bowed at Tysons Corner in “You’re an entrepreneur,” writes start full-time, beginning Monday. McLean, Va., Wednesday, Dennis. “Your companies are not Previously, Gold has freelanced for contains all the elements your ‘babies,’ they are tools for O, The Oprah Magazine and was of the outdoors on the acquiring wealth. Try to sell them the contributing accessories editor inside, complete with before they peak.” for Time Style & Design. American cyprus-paneled It’s a practice he’s engaged in Under the direction of editor and quartzite walls, black- throughout his career — such as in chief Lucy Schulte Danziger and and-white outdoor videos with British computer magazine fashion director Evyan Metzner, and a fresh mix of women’s publisher Future. But the words the magazine has added a style and men’s classic styling, might give his current employees Q&A between the readers and denim and activewear. some cause for concern, since there Metzner and “style solutions,” The natural materials has been widespread speculation which provides clothing ideas for give the 6,500-square-foot the magnate is looking to sell different body types. In addition, store a rugged and raw some or all of his current magazine fashion credits are now included quality and set the stage holdings. in its beauty and “celebrity for the “fusion” of high- Peppered with choice quotations lifestyle” features. Danziger said tech sport and casual from Swift, Homer and Margaret more fashion has been added sportswear in the brand’s A selection from the fall collection, Thatcher, alongside Dennis’ throughout the magazine so fall collection. against a quartzite wall backdrop. own verse, the book interweaves his doctrine readers won’t have to go out and buy a separate “We wanted people to and illustrative vignettes from his own life. He fashion glossy as a supplement to Self. “We want have a sense there is something evocative inside, and we wanted tells how he regretted selling the U.K. edition it to be the bible for everything women care about them to be curious,” said Arnold P. Cohen, chief marketing offi cer of of Stuff to Haymarket media, for example, and in their lives,” Danziger said. Metzner said the the Martin + Osa division, pointing to the striking exterior of cyprus- how he persisted in throwing money and time at magazine will also continue to have its celebrity paneled walls boldly cut by an inset strip of molded, handblown Blender’s doomed incarnation as a magazine in and fashion spreads shot on location, as opposed glass backlit with a dazzling blue light, touting the store’s name. CD-ROM format. “Because I would not give in, to a studio, to provide a refl ection of how its A giant video screen, projecting black-and-white videos of my stubbornness turned into a jujitsu master and readers live in their own clothes. — Amy Wicks Martin + Osa-clad models sporting the brand’s fall line while on various outdoor adventures in northern California, splits the entrance of the store in half, with women’s wear on the right and men’s wear on the left. Directly behind the video screen lies an alcove of wooden shelves displaying items in an area executives have fondly dubbed the “cabin.” The men’s and women’s sides are divided by long wooden tables, showcasing leather belts, scarves and other accessories in vintage glass display cases or handblown glass-dome cases. The look and feel of the entire store evokes a cabin, sauna and spa wrapped into one rugged, natural design aesthetic, a look created by Michael Neumann Architecture. The design aesthetic is “big, simple and true,” said Ken Pilot, president of the division. “We are bringing the outdoors indoors. That is the inspiration for our store.” The company will open a second Martin + Osa store in NorthPark Center in Dallas next Wednesday, followed by a store in Newport Fashion Island in Orange Country, Calif., one in the San Francisco Center and a fi fth store in Woodfi eld Mall, outside Chicago, in November. Ten more stores are slated to open next year, and the compa- ny has its sites set on ultimately opening more than 300 stores Checking Checking in total, according to Cohen. “The concept is clearly, initially, a predominantly mall-based In Out concept to get national exposure,” said Cohen. Overall, the store carries its own active, denim and sportswear Martin + Osa brand, but it intersperses the collection with other accessories brands, particularly in footwear, where it carries lim- ited-distribution tennis shoes, such as Puma and Adidas.

Accessories are Get your WWD fi x wherever you call home. displayed in the “community area.”

Subscribe now. Go to WWD.com, for group subscriptions call 212.630.4069. PHOTOS BY KYLE SAMPERTON KYLE PHOTOS BY 14 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2006 WWD.COM

Bill Looks to Raise Rank Lee Chaden and Rich Noll are front and center of the NYSE Of U.S. Textile Negotiator podium. By Kristi Ellis textile negotiator until he is con- fi rmed by the Senate. WASHINGTON — Rep. Robin “When you have equals negoti- Hayes (R, N.C.) introduced leg- ating on level ground, it improves islation Wednesday that would the situation,’’ Hayes said. boost the rank of the special tex- The USTR’s offi ce had no com- tile negotiator to ambassador to ment on the bill. But a spokesman give more clout at the trade bar- said Quesenberry “has tremen- gaining table. dous authority and access to ne- Historically, the position with- gotiate on behalf of the U.S.” in the U.S. Trade Representative’s Cass Johnson, president of offi ce was considered the “chief NCTO, pointed to several in- textile negotiator” and carried stances where foreign negotia- the diplomatic title of ambas- tors called into question the U.S. sador, but it was downgraded textile negotiator’s authority. He four years ago to “special textile cited tension and confusion dur- negotiator” and stripped of the ing the U.S.-China textile bilat- ambassador’s title without any eral negotiations in November public explanation. 2005, more recent pocketing and Hayes said he introduced the lining negotiations with Central bill after receiving a letter critical American negotiators and the of the decision from the National Doha Round of global trade talks. Council of Textile Organizations, Stephen Lamar, senior vice American Apparel & Footwear president at the AAFA, said, Association and National Cotton “There have been a couple of Council last month. instances where there was some Hanesbrands Rings In a New Day “We believe the situation un- confusion as to whether or not dermines the credibility of U.S. Scott was doing the negotiating NEW YORK — Hanesbrands Inc., the spin-off of Surrounded on the podium by 12 Hanesbrands textile and apparel negotiators,” because he didn’t have the am- Sara Lee Inc., rallied in its debut Wednesday on the executives, Noll said a “signifi cant number” of the letter said. “We are aware of bassador’s title that his counter- New York Stock Exchange, closing up 6.6 percent. additional Hanesbrands executives were on several instances in recent years parts did. I think what this does is Out of the gate, the stock — trading under the hand on the trading fl oor. when U.S. negotiators were un- try to eliminate any confusion.” symbol HBI — dropped slightly from its opening “We will be having a celebration around the able to represent U.S. interests be- Julia Hughes, vice president price of $19.80. But as trading intensifi ed, the world,” he added. “Each facility has it’s guidelines, cause they did not carry the same of international trade at the stock leapt to $21 and stayed there for most of and in Winston-Salem, we’ll have a big I Max screen title as their counterpart foreign U.S. Association of Importers the day as the major indices struggled. At 1 p.m., for several thousand employees with a stage and all offi cial. U.S. textile and apparel of Textiles & Apparel, said the the stock was up about 6 percent on volume of of the brands. We’ll also be bringing a time capsule interests should not be penalized designation should not be given 4.3 million. The stock closed the day at $21.11 to our headquarters to be opened in 25 years.” because of such misperceptions.” to the U.S. textile negotiator be- on volume of 7 million. The S&P 500 finished down 1 percent Hayes’ bill would reinstate cause many other foreign textile Lee A. Chaden, executive chairman of to 1,300.26, while the Dow Jones Industrial the chief textile negotiator title negotiators do not have the title. Hanesbrands Inc., and chief executive offi cer Average shed 0.6 percent to 11,406.20. Investors and confer a rank of ambassador “We have seen Scott in his role Rich Noll jointly rang the opening bell of the were concerned that the Fed would raise inter- on the position, requiring Senate at USTR and it certainly has not New York Stock Exchange Wednesday morning. est rates to cool infl ation. approval. It would also make the had any negative impact on his current textile negotiator, Scott ability to conduct negotiations,’’ Quesenberry, the acting chief she said. Fortunoff Rebrand Seeks Youthful Image Fed Cites Retail Sales Gain By Sophia Chabbott to any outfi t, they add a bit of light and hope to your outlook each and every day.” By Evan Clark have been softer than antici- ortunoff is trying to position itself for growth The Petra Nemcova Collection for Fortunoff pated,” said the report. “Store Fand lure younger customers. will hit the firm’s six stores in Manhattan; WASHINGTON — Retail sales executives indicated that dis- The 84-year-old retailer, which specializes in White Plains and Westbury, N.Y., and Paramus, grew modestly in late July and counting has been widespread. fi ne jewelry, tabletop and outdoor items, is set Woodbridge and Wayne, N.J., in time for the hol- August, with stores in parts Looking ahead, area retailers to roll out a new advertising campaign featur- iday season. Fortunoff ’s last spokeswoman was of the country, notably the have subdued forecasts. They ing model Petra Nemcova. In addition, Fortunoff Lauren Bacall, who represented the Westbury, Philadelphia area, lowering ex- believe consumer confidence plans to open as many as fi ve more doors on the N.Y.-based fi rm in the Eighties. pectations after a disappointing has weakened and they expect East Coast by 2008 and is Images of Nemcova will back-to-school season, according consumers to limit discretionary homing in on emerging jew- also be seen throughout di- to the Federal Reserve. spending in the months ahead.” elry designers in addition to rect-mail catalogues, which The Beige Book report re- Consumer spending was up the classic styles for which it the company will deliver to leased Wednesday, an anecdotal slightly in the Minneapolis area, is known. consumers this week. take on business conditions in where a North Dakota mall “It’s our strategy to re- Banking on its thriving the Fed’s 12 districts, found that manager described b-t-s sales as brand Fortunoff in a more bridal registry business, overall economic activity con- solid. youthful and fashionable Fortunoff is going into more tinued to expand. However, the In San Francisco, sales grew way,” said Joel Kier, chair- fashionable jewelry to re- Boston, New York, Philadelphia, somewhat for department stores man of Kier Group and tain the younger female cus- Kansas City and Dallas districts and assorted specialty stores, Fortunoff, adding that the tomer. During the holidays, showed a deceleration in that though retail sales growth in the campaign is the fi rst step in the retailer will host events expansion. district was modest overall. the company’s new strategy. supporting its new jewelers. Consumer spending slowed In a broader sense, econo- In November 2004, the The fi rm will reinstate the across most of the country, mists are keeping a close eye company agreed to a recap- Fortunoff credit card, which dragged down by sluggish sales on the strength of the housing italization transaction with will award bonus points for in the automotive and housing market, which has an impact on two equity fi rms, Trimaran shopping. areas. A number of regions also consumer spending habits. Also Capital Partners and Kier Fortunoff is simplifying reported that high energy prices of macroeconomic interest is the Group, but the terms were and modernizing its jewelry appear to have hurt consumer employment scene, especially not disclosed. Kier said displays and salespeople demand. since people base at least some Fortunoff ’s annual sales are being trained on the new In Chicago, the survey said: purchasing decisions on how volume is $500 million. product offering. The com- “High gasoline prices reportedly comfortable they feel in their Nemcova will unveil the pany will also unveil a rede- dampened spending again in the jobs. The Fed’s survey found campaign today at the fi rm’s signed e-commerce Web site district, both by squeezing bud- that labor markets generally Fifth Avenue fl agship, in ad- Petra Nemcova in a new Fortunoff ad. that is to be up and running gets and by leading shoppers to have been steady or expanding dition to the new fall jewelry collection. Print later this month. make fewer trips to the stores.” moderately, except for “brisk” ads bow in The New York Times on Sept. 17 and Fortunoff is also looking to expand on its baby Retail sales in nine districts growth in Kansas City and an in regional newspapers, with consumer maga- offerings, including giftware, and its outdoor se- were seen as “growing modest- acceleration in the Richmond zines and outdoor to follow in coming months. lection that runs the gamut from barbecues to ly,” while the Richmond and St. district. “For me, jewelry is an easy way to make patio furniture, in addition to its engagement Louis areas had weak or declin- “Virtually all districts report- a personal statement with your look,” said ring and fi ne jewelry selections that can climb ing sales and Cleveland showed ed declines in home sales, as Nemcova, who also codesigned a line under into the hundreds of thousands of dollars. a mixed result. well as in residential construc- her name for the store that retails from $125 to “I don’t want to be categorized as a product cat- In the Philadelphia area, b-t-s tion activity,” said the report. about $5,000. “I feel very blessed to now be a egory,’’ Kier said. “That’s what we’re changing. I sales have not been as strong as “Moreover, most districts indi- part of the Fortunoff family and the pieces I de- want the brand to be identifi ed as a fabulous place expected. cated substantial increases in signed not only add a glamorous and sexy touch to have an incredible shopping experience.” “Apparel sales, in particular, the inventory of unsold homes.” WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2006 15 NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

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NY Location (937) 898-2975 Seeking an experienced individual Fax Patti: 973-812-1731 Puerto Rican Facilities to coordinate credit approvals with 40 Years in contracting, Berry and ISO factor & clients. DESIGNER – SOCKS Production Manager $90-110K. Current compliant, presenting contract or joint Fax Resume & Salary History to: Great Opportunity experience in sourcing factories WW for venture opportunities. Experienced 212-643-2083 Well established 20+ yr old Hosiery Mfg popular priced sportswear required. Sales/Administrative in woven trousers, shirts, outerwear, Kids or womenswear exp ok. Admin Since 1967 with Key Urban and Junior Brands coveralls, caps, gloves, backpacks and Seeking talented, highly motivated, Call 973-564-9236. AGCY. Assistant hydration packs with full automatic W-I-N-S-T-O-N organized Designer. Knowledge of Major Childrenswear Co. seeks highly cutting and sewing applications. 3000 Macs, Photoshop and Illustrator a must. motivated/detailed individual for Sales/ sewing associates with multi-mod sew- APPAREL STAFFING Experience necessary. We offer a great Production Manager Administrative Asst. Responsibilities ing capabilities, 40 skilled engineers DESIGN * SALES * MERCH work environment, oppty’s for growth Fabric Co. seeks a knowledgeable include major acct support, monitoring for accurate and competitive costing. ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION plus great salary & benefits. Production Mgr. with minimum 2 years orders, providing customer service, In house laundry and permanent press (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 E-mail cover letter and resume to experience.Fax resume: 213-749-6034 and some showroom selling. Strong facilities available. Short lead times. [email protected] verbal and computer skills. Must Contact Tom or Richard: ALLOCATIONS Production Manager have at least 2 years experience. Tel: 636-685-1000 / Fax: 636-685-1005 Please fax resume to David at: [email protected] or INVENTORY Import Open Position New York-based Apparel Company is (212) 967- 8108 [email protected] We are one of the largest independent seeking senior Knit Production Man- MANAGEMENT converters & manufacturers of fabrics ager. Responsibility to lead and direct Seeking an experienced individual to for the home in the US. We are currently global sourcing process as well as all SALES create pick tickets for shipping & to seeking an Import Asst. This exciting areas of production follow up. Must Importer seeks Denim Fabrics Sales- receive merchandise into system. opportunity will offer the right candidate have factory/agent relationships; be person w/extensive market experience. Strong Excel skills required. A knowl- the opportunity to work in a dynamic able to travel in and outside the U.S. Fax or email resume Att: HR Dept. edge of Aims a +. & fast paced environment. The ideal Must have private label experience F: 212-714-2021 E: [email protected] Fax Resume & Salary History to: import candidate will have experience with Wal-Mart/K-Mart/Target and 5-7 212-643-2083 interfacing directly with both domestic years experience in private label knit Search For Space In Garment Center ARE YOU TIRED & offshore suppliers. Must have expe- production management. Sales Manager Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee Assistant Designer rience handling all documents, customs Fax confidential resume and salary Seeking an aggressive, creative, organized www.midcomre.com clearance, L/C’s, freight forwarders & requirements to: 212-988-1143 Manager capable of increasing sales for a OF IT ALL? High end beading and embroidery Co. shipment follow-up. Strong computer Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 seeks individual to work directly with luxury lifestyle floral/home retailer with CALL ME & admin/communication skills. Previous Production Sourcing Mgr $90-110K. high profile clientele. Competitive salary clients. Need to be creative, hard working, production/converting experience a BIG Current exp in outerwear required. Showroom sublet - 36th & 5th MAX JONES knowledge of patterns and good color & commission. Fax resume: 212-867-9644 2500 Ft Showroom - Fully Built +. Salary commensurate with experience. Source WW + negotiate prices. sense. Must have excellent follow-up and Must be very organized / systematic, Popular priced market factories. Call Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 TOLL FREE: 1-888-690-0106 able to communicate with factories over Search- www.manhattanoffices.com OR E-MAIL: computer literate, math skills a must. 973-564-9236 Jaral Agency. Sales Rep -seas regarding deliveries and costings. Please fax resumes to: (212) 213-1795 Manufacturer seeking exp’d. Sales Rep [email protected] Needstobedetailorientedandhighly QC Manager $100-125K. Current exp in for new, upscale swimwear collection. organized and able to work in a fast paced ORDER MANAGEMENT production QC involved with fit, fabric, Salary + commission. Travel included. environment. Please fax resume and performance, counter samples. Supervise Call: 212-207-4058 salary requirements to: (212) 719 -1847 COORDINATOR tech designers. Inspection + evaluation Mudd Jeans is looking to hire an exp’d of factories WW. Extensive travel. ASSISTANT DESIGNER Call 973-564-9236. AGCY. Sr. Sales Rep. order management coordinator. Must -Anna Sui- Leading better separates co. looking for have exp. in BlueCherry and order en- SALES ASSISTANT organized, motivated, creative firecracker try in BC. Will work closely with sales 5+ years exp. in Women’s Designer willing to do whatever it takes. Must team, enter customer orders, perform HOT KISS Sportswear. Strong relationships with have 2 yrs exp working with China, updates when necessary, and verifying Dept. & Specialty stores. Aggressive, Fast paced Jr. sptswr. co. seeks highly organized, energetic. Strong computer PATTERN/SAMPLES drawing skills, spec, sketch, technical receipt of customer ticketing. motivated Sales Assistant with strong Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast packages, EMB layouts. Pls email resumes to & follow-up skills. computer and organizational skills. Fax res. and sal. req: 212-768-2358 work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Fax resume to: 212-302-3872 / Natasha [email protected] or fax to Ability to multi-task. Room for 212-730-2289 attn: Franchesca Cruz advancement. Please e-mail: ASST DESIGNER [email protected] PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Seeking experienced and well PATTERNMAKER PRODUCTIONS organized assistant designer for Couture house seeking patternmaker. Spec Tech All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. leading manufacturer of social occasion 10-15 Years exp in creating first pattern Junior exp a must. Computer Call Sherry 212-719-0622. dresses. Must be experienced with thru production. Must be able to work literate. NY Location sample room, computer literate, able with factories and highly organized.We Fax Patti: 973-812-1731 VP of Wholesale to work in fast-paced design room and offer a competitive benefits package. International Lxury Fashion Co seeks PATTERNS, SAMPLES, have knowledge of garment construc- Email resume : [email protected] TECH DESIGNER SR. VP of Wholesale w/min 10 yrs exp deal- tion and consumption. Some sketch- ing w/ major department and specialty PRODUCTIONS ing ability and experience with off- PRIVATE LABEL store accounts. Candidate must have Full service shop to the trade. shore product development. Candidate Patternmaker-First Missy/Contemporary Knit House seeks good relationships with high level dept Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. must be motivated, creative, able to Sr. Tech Designer w/ 4-5 yrs exp to store contacts, as well as, luxury and multi-task and work well within the Fast paced, missy contemporary co contemporary retailers. Candidate seeks a first patternmaker with strong manage fast paced Private Label design team to meet deadlines. Please accounts. Resp for lab dip approval, must possess strong leadership, PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD email resume in confidence to: bkgr’d in cut and sew knits. Must work presentation, communication and High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- closely with designer in interpreting fabric & garment testing, creating tech [email protected] packs, attend fittings for construction management skills. Must be efficient sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 designs from sketches, direct sample- with retail projections and managing makers in sewing and construction and pattern correction, communicat- ing technical changes & providing accounts. A team player is essential. Customer Service/Allocator details. Must be quick, accurate and Competitive salary and benefits. National Apparel distribution center seeks knowledgable in all phases of pattern- solutions for factories globally. Great benefits. Fax resume to: 212-221-1353 Please email resume and cover letter to: a motivated Customer Service Rep for making & be able to create production [email protected] its Secaucus, NJ facility. Duties include ready pattern. Great benefits. TECHNICAL DESIGNERS $HI data entry, inventory control, allocation, Fax resume to: 212-221-1353 Many Jobs for Missy- Jrs-Boy/Girl-Men and daily communication with accounts. C/S Knits-Wovens-Sweaters-Denim Must have excellent organization / Call: 212-643-8090 Fax: 643-8127 agcy Women’s Clothing Store communication / computer skills, and PATTERNMAKER Southern Marin County, CA be able to multi-task. Experience with Jonden Knit Sportwear Co. seeks exp. Long established women’s clothing apparel or distribution a plus. E-mail person, Bklyn warehouse. Gerber store for sale. Much growth potential. resumes to: [email protected] skills a plus. Fax: (718) 369-4927. Principals only. Call Tom 415.383.5800. Designer & Production Associate Designer Asst. Production Mgr. Girls’ Sportswear Line Huge growth opportunity. est. Well established women’s dress mfr. multidivisional dress manufacturer looking for individual with Min. 5 years Trendy, est’d. 4-16 Clothing Mfr. seeks looking for designer & associate experience in import production. Must representation in all Regional Markets. designer who specializes in evening & be computer proficient, very organized, Must have strong relationships with prom dresses, daytime, junior & private and strong communication skills. major National/Regional Dept. & Specialty label developments. Must have min. 6 Fax Resume to HR: 212-898-1211 Couture Bridal Co Seeks Stores. Must have showroom & contacts. years experience and be familiarize Min. 5 years exp. Fax / E-mail resumes: with oversees developments. Excellent Inside Sales Rep 213-749-4401 / [email protected] organizational skills a must. Do you know the fashion industry? Do Fax Resume to HR: (212) 898-1211 you have at least 5 years of sales exp? Production Coordinator If so, our couture bridal inside sales DESIGNER Established major Apparel Co. seeks an division needs you! We are looking for Fashion knit and active wear Designer individual with a minimum of 3 years highly motivated inside sales reps to with at least 3 year experience. Email experience. Must be hands-on & detail work from home. Must be willing and resume to: [email protected] oriented, possess strong communication able to travel to do trunk shows & the skills, and be able to track & monitor New York Market. Possess excellent production from development through phone and communication skills. The DESIGNER arrival of merchandise. We are looking ideal candidate will have background Import trendy junior sweater co. for someone who can handle pressure, in high fashion & will be an independ- looking for designer with young and works well with various designers & ent go-getter! We are offering salary trendy ideas. Must know Photoshop & salespeople, and who is willing to travel plus commission. Illustrator. Must have sweater knowl- to overseas factories on occasion. Salary Call 832-947-2020 or E-mail your edge from design to production. commensurate with experience. Please resume to [email protected] Fax: 212-840-1098 or Call: 212-840-0182 E-mail to: [email protected] E: [email protected] HEIDI WEISEL DESIGNER Director of Sales Leading Missy Career Sportswear Production Coordinator Well-est’d Couture house seeking dy- Company needs someone minimum 3 Men’s Apparel Importer seeks an exp’d., namic Director of sales w/ proven years experience. Must have knowl- detail oriented person to coordinate record of success in evening and RTW. edge of domestic fabric market, be production for several large accounts. Must have 10-15 Years exp with senior proficient at illustrator, communicate Past Shopko & Kmart experience is a level contacts at Dept & specialty with overseas factories and develop plus. Involvement in all phases of gar- stores. Knowl of store planning, high- spec sheets. Competitive salary and ment production from initial order to end taste level, org & team player. We benefits. final delivery. Fax resume with salary offer a competitive benefits package. Fax att Joseph: 212 768 3588 requirements to Rocio: 212-268-0884 Email resume to: [email protected] AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ® Registered Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Cotton Incorporated, 20

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