Liza Debevec Phd Thesis

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Liza Debevec Phd Thesis =3;8>23 =30 188/ 607< * =30 9864=4.< 81 0?0;@/,@ 6410 47 >;-,7 ->;547, 1,<8 6IXA /EBETEC , =HEQIQ <SBLIRRED FNP RHE /EGPEE NF 9H/ AR RHE >MITEPQIRW NF <R ,MDPEUQ &$$( 1SKK LERADARA FNP RHIQ IREL IQ ATAIKABKE IM ;EQEAPCH+<R,MDPEUQ*1SKK=EVR AR* HRRO*##PEQEAPCH!PEONQIRNPW"QR!AMDPEUQ"AC"SJ# 9KEAQE SQE RHIQ IDEMRIFIEP RN CIRE NP KIMJ RN RHIQ IREL* HRRO*##HDK"HAMDKE"MER#%$$&'#)%%) =HIQ IREL IQ OPNRECRED BW NPIGIMAK CNOWPIGHR THROUGH THE FOOD LENS: THE POLITICS OF EVERYDAY LIFE IN URBAN BURKINA FASO Submitted by: Liza Debevec For the degree of: Ph.D. (Social Anthropology) Date: 9th November 2004 A UNIý ' :?ý1DREANý . I was admitted as a research student in September 1999 and as a candidate for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in September 2000; the higher study for which this is a record was carried out in the University of St Andrews between 1999 and 2004. ? Q..03.05 date signature of candidate ... rý4 I hereby certify that the candidate has fulfilled the conditions of the Resolution and Regulations appropriate for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the University of St Andrews and that the candidate is qualified to submit this thesis in application for that degree. date ............... signature of supervisor .... RESTRICTED In submitting this thesis to the University of St Andrews I wish access to it to be subject to the following conditions: for a period of 3 years from the date of submission, the thesis shall be made available for use only with the consent of the Head of the School in which the work was carried out. I understand, however, that the title and abstract of the thesis will be published during this period of restricted access; and that after the expiry of this period the thesis will be made available for use in accordance with the regulations of the University Library for the time being in force, subject to any copyright in the work not being affected thereby, and a copy of the work may be made and supplied to any bona fide library or research worker. date 03.05 ............ signature of candidate ... ABSTRACT OF THE THESIS Through the food lens: the politics of everyday life in urban Burkina Faso The subject of the thesis is the everyday life of several Muslim and one Christian family residing in different parts of Bobo-Dioulasso, the second largest town in Burkina Faso, situated in the south west, on the axis between Mali and Ivory Coast. Through ethnographic descriptions of food events I explore larger issues of everyday existence in urban West Africa. The joint use of `traditional' and `western' foods shows that the average Burkinabe shifts between several worlds in which s/he feels more or less comfortable. One is the home, where eating and other practices are traditional and safe, the other the outside world, where one is always at risk of the unknown. At the same time the outside world is a space invested with expectations, excitement and possibility of success. I explore the ways in which people negotiate between the `traditional' world, which they know and understand, and the `modern' ways of life, to which, while with hesitation and apprehension, they aspire. In order to understand people's everyday actions, I analyse their everyday lives, starting from the home life and everyday feeding practices, through celebrations and rituals, and their relationship with and ideas about the outside world through the media. Finally, I explore people's ideas about the future they aspire to, both for themselves and for their families. Acknowledgements This thesis was written with the support of an ORS grant, a UHStAGA Scholarship and a maintenance grant from University of St Andrews. I also received financial support from Zavarovalnica Triglav, Slovenia. I am grateful to all the above- mentioned institutions. Most of all I am grateful to the individuals who supported me on my way towards completion. In the field, I would like to thank my host family and all my friends and informants, who by allowing me to become a part of their lives, made this thesis possible. I will not name them here as I wish to respect their privacy. In St Andrews I want to thank many people, particularly all the fellow PhD students who helped with useful comments during the 'writing-up' seminars and also afterwards in the pub. I also want to thank the members of staff, who ran or attended these seminars, for their support and comments. Anne Christie, Lisa Smith and Donna Lumsden were incredibly helpful in making the background run smoothly, so I could write away without major hiccups. Particular thanks goes to my supervisor, Professor Nigel Rapport, who has not only been a great mentor, but has also been incredibly patient with me through these years. I also want to thank Sue Lewis, who has been an amazing friend and colleague since my first days in St Andrews. Finally I want to thank my friends and family in Ljubljana for supporting me and also for constantly asking the annoying question 'Aren't you done yet? ' which possibly helped me to finally finish the thesis. A special thank you goes to Melita Pisek, who made sure that the thesis found its way home. I want to dedicate this thesis to my mother and brother, who were always there for me. Rada vaju imam, tudi kadar sem tecna. Table of Contents Glossary of Jula and French words in the thesis 1 Dramatis personae or a glossary of the main informants 6 Chapter One - Introduction 8 1.1 Fieldwork (and life) as a constant compromise or from half empty to half full and back again 8 1.2 Theoretical frames: Being-in-the-field or discovering an anthropology that fits like a second skin 13 1.2.1 The everyday practice of cooking 18 1.2.2 The ideal and the not-so-ideal (real) world 20 1.2.3 The not-so-traditional Africa: on modernity and postcolony in Africa 23 1.2.4. The technicalities of ethnographic practice or how (not) to do fieldwork in Burkina Faso and elsewhere 26 1.2.4.1 The ethics of anthropological research and consequences of writing about informants' lives 29 1.3 Introducing the place 32 1.3.1 Introducing the country: Burkina Faso - demography, geography, linguistics, history and anthropology 32 1.3.2 The town 37 1.3.2.1 Bobo-Dioulasso in anthropological literature 38 1.3.2 The neighbourhood 40 1.4 Introducing the people 41 1.4.1 The Bationo family compound or my life in a former chicken coop 41 The Bationo: My compound 43 1.4.2 The not-so-innocent anthropologist or how the dunanmuso defied the rules of proper behaviour by making contact with the world outside the compound 56 The Sanou family 59 Les Wattara 63 And some other important people 65 1.5 The plan of the thesis 67 family kitchen Chapter Two - Smells from the or who gets the biggest chunk of meat 70 One cannot eat on one's own 70 How compatible are the ideas of the commensality with ideas of hierarchy 71 Ideal and real families 73 A day in the life of the Bationo family (and their tubabu muso) 75 Discussion of breakfast and early morning practices 78 Discussion about acquisition, preparation and distribution of the main daily meal 85 Family hierarchy and inequality in food distribution and general treatment 88 Learning to share 91 Mama's side of the yard 93 Discussion and concluding remarks 94 98 Chapter Three - Bobolese weddings and feasting as a `symbolic struggle' Anthropologists and weddings 99 `Faire le marriage Africain' 100 Common marriage procedures 104 The pattern of traditional wedding celebrations in Bobo-Dioulasso 107 Safi's wedding 110 Civil wedding of the first cousins, les Sidibe and les Diop 118 Discussion 128 Chapter Four- Watching TV in a West African compound 132 Tv as a source of entertainment and as an object of prestige 134 Television Nationale du Burkina 135 Burkinabe families watch television or how watching TV became a new form of commensality 138 Gossip, criticising and networking or how TV reflects the everyday life 144 Locally produced images: decolonisation of the small screen or an unwelcome image of reality 151 Discussion and concluding remarks 156 Chapter Five - Dangers and charms of the unknown: to eat or not to eat outside one's home 158 Street foods 159 The ups and downs of a very small business: the case of Assetou and Madina's food stall 164 Restaurants, cafes, teahouses and bars 167 Anthropologist eats outside (and gets told off) 168 Perils of eating outside or places where one should not be (seen) 170 Hierarchy of cleanliness and dirt 177 Eating out with my friends and informants 179 Discussion 182 Chapter Six - Waiting for happiness - the vision of future of people in Bobo-Dioulasso 185 Islam in Bobo-Dioulasso 187 How to recognise a true believer, or the mysterious way of being-in-the-field 188 The private hopes and public practices of Burkinabe individuals 191 Fati (Koroba) Bationo 191 Amadou Bationo 197 Bintou Wattara 201 Negotiating one' place between the traditional expectations and the constraints of the everyday realities 206 Waiting for ajigi 207 Concluding remarks 208 Chapter Seven - Conclusion 210 The ideals and the reality of a thesis conclusion 210 Why should we look through the food lens? 212 Between real and ideal, traditional and modern; or the illusion of wholeness 213 Why does this matter and where do we go from here? 216 Bibliography 220 Table of Figures Picture 1.
Recommended publications
  • Food Fermentation: an Overview of Current Fermenting Processes in Traditionally Fer- Mented and Consumed Foods
    Microbiology and Nature Volume 1, Issue 4 pages 130-155 ISSN 2664-388X Microbiol. Nat. https://doi.org/10.26167/eb85-yj67 Food fermentation: an overview of current fermenting processes in traditionally fer- mented and consumed foods Adiko Cho Evelyne Judicaël1, Koffi Louis Ban1, Ouattara Gnénékidou Honoré2 1Station de Recherche Technologique (SRT), Centre National de Recherche Agronomique (CNRA), Bingerville, Côte d’Ivoire 2Laboratoire de Biotechnologies, UFR Biosciences, Université Félix Houphouet-Boigny, Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Received, February 17th 2021; Revised, April 7th 2021; Accepted, April 9th 2021; Published online 30th May 2021 Abstract Fermented foods and beverages play a significant role in most societies and have a major role in population protein require- ments. Food fermentation is one of the oldest biotechnology processes which play an important role in enrichment and im- provement of food through enhancement of flavour, aroma, protein, essential amino acid and vitamins. Moreover, this tech- nology can also be used to change food texture, preserve food through acetic acid, lactic acid, alcoholic and alkaline fermenta- tion, detoxify foods and reduce the cooking time. Different foods can be produced by fermenting cereals, tubers, fruits, and fish. The fermentative process of food worldwide is generally spontaneous and leads to a highly fluctuating product quality. The use of starters could be an alternative to ensure the safety and quality of fermented products in Africa. The objective of this review is to point out the fermentation approaches and initiatives used to improve various traditionally fermented food worldwide. Keywords: Traditional Fermentation, food, microorganisms, starters Résumé La fermentation est l'un des processus biotechnologiques les plus anciens.
    [Show full text]
  • Review Article
    z Available online at http://www.journalcra.com INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF CURRENT RESEARCH International Journal of Current Research Vol. 11, Issue, 02, pp.1007-1012, February, 2019 DOI: https://doi.org/10.24941/ijcr.34267.02.2019 ISSN: 0975-833X REVIEW ARTICLE PROCESS OF PRODUCTION AND VALORIZATION OF SUMBALA AN AFRICAN MUSTARD: A REVIEW 1Roukaya Abdou Souley, 2Issoufou Amadou, 1Halima Oumarou Diadie and *1Abdourahamane Balla 1Research Laboratory of Hygiene, Food and Nutrition Science, Faculty of Agronomy, University Abdou Moumouni, Niamey, Niger 2Laboratory of Food Science and Technology, Faculty of Agriculture and Environmental Sciences, University Dan Dicko Dankoulodo, Maradi, Niger ARTICLE INFO ABSTRACT Article History: The sumbala or African mustard, produced by traditional methods of fermentation of some protein Received 15th November, 2018 and/or oleaginous seeds, is a food condiment used in West Africa. The variability of its organoleptic Received in revised form characteristics led to diversity of product and makes its more complex for characterization. Several 08th December, 2018 th studies have provided information on the process of this condiment production, it’s an important Accepted 04 January, 2019 source of nutritional values as well as its nature and microflora properties. Organoleptic Published online 28th February, 2019 characteristics of this condiment were also reported. Through this study, current knowledge about the product and the process of production as well as technology and responsible bacteria involved in this Key Words: type of fermentation have been discussed. Sumbala, Process, Fermentation, Valorization, Probiotics, West Africa. Copyright © 2019, Roukaya Abdou Souley et al. This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
    [Show full text]
  • Scotland ^ 37Th Annual Smithsonian
    SMITHSONIAN FOLKLIFE FESTIVAL SCOTLAND ^ 37TH ANNUAL SMITHSONIAN FOLKLIFE FESTIVAL Appalachia Heritage and Haniioiiy Mali From Timbuktu to Washingto ii Scotland at the Smithsonian June 2 5 -July 6, 2003 Wa s h i n g t o n , D . C . The annual Smithsonian Folklife Festival brings together exemplary keepers of diverse traditions, both old and new. from communities across the United States and around the world. The goal of the Festival is to strengthen and preserve these traditions by presenting them on the National MaO, so that the tradition-hearers and the public can connect with and learn from one another, and understand cultural difierences in a respectful way. Smithsonian Institution Center for Folklife and Cultural Heritage 750 9th Street NW Suite 4100 Washington, DC 20560-0953 www. folklife. SI . edu © 2003 by the Smithsonian Institution ISSN 1056-6805 Editor: Carla Borden Associate Editors: Frank Proschan, Peter Seitel Art Director: Denise Arnot Production Manager: Joan Erdesky Design Assistant: Krystyn MacGregor Confair Printing: Finlay Printing, Bloomfield, CT Festival Sponsors The Festival is co-sponsored by the National Park Service. The Festival is supported by federally appropriated funds; Smithsonian trust funds; contributions from governments, businesses, foundations, and individuals; in-kind assistance; volunteers; and food, recording, and craft sales. Major in-kind support for the Festival has been provided by media partners WAMU 88.5 FM—American University Radio, Tfie IVashiiigtoii Post, washingtonpost.com, and Afropop, and by Motorola, Nextel, Whole Foods Market, and Go-Ped. APPALACHIA: HERITAGE AND HARMONY This program is produced in collaboration with the Birthplace of Country Music Alliance and the Center for Appalachian Studies at East Tennessee State University.
    [Show full text]
  • A Tour of African Gastronomy
    A TOUR OF AFRICAN GASTRONOMY https://www.e-unwto.org/doi/book/10.18111/9789284422357 - Wednesday, January 20, 2021 2:07:16 AM IP Address:196.20.65.210 An invitation to discover Africa through its gastronomy… So much of a nations’ culture is defined by food. UNWTO is proud to invite you to join our Tour of African Gastronomy. The rich and endlessly diverse flavours of the continent tell stories and rituals steeped in history. Explore the legacy of centuries of amazing culinary traditions hand in hand with some of the most prominent figures of African Gastronomy. Over thirty Chefs will take you on a trip around the wonderful flavours and delicacies whose preparation alone is akin to a performance. Couscous earns a place among the World’s Intangible Cultural Heritage The knowledge, know-how and practices related to the production and consumption of couscous have been inscribed on the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage on 16 December 2020 as a result of a joint application by Algeria, Mauritania, Morocco and Tunisia. Couscous is usually served with a range of side dishes, such as spicy stews, meats, fishes or vegetables, which vary according to the traditions of each place or cook. Created to promote a better protection of important intangible cultural heritages worldwide and the awareness of their significance, the UNESCO list includes social practices of a country or region expressed by means of knowledges, https://www.e-unwto.org/doi/book/10.18111/9789284422357 - Wednesday, January 20, 2021 2:07:16 AM IP Address:196.20.65.210 know-hows, celebrations, art forms and other activities.
    [Show full text]
  • GRAS Notice 831 for Bacillus Subtilis DE111
    GRAS Notice (GRN) No. 831 https://www.fda.gov/food/generally-recognized-safe-gras/gras-notice-inventory DEC 7 2018 Solutions Consuftin3 OFFICE OF FOOD ADDITIVE SAFETY Catherine Adams Hutt, PhD, RD 4568 Elm Bottom Circle Aubrey, TX 76227 [email protected] 630-605-3022 December 3, 2018 Dr. Dennis M. Keefe Director, Office of Food Additive Safety HFS-200 U.S. Food and Drug Administration 5100 Paint Branch Parkway College Park, MD 20740-3835 Dear Dr. Keefe, In accordance with the FDA regulations governing GRAS status of food substances, 21 CFR §170.3 and §170.30, and the proposed regulations for GRAS notifications, 62 FR 18938 (17 April 1997), I am submitting this GRAS Notification as agent on behalf of Deerland Probiotics and Enzymes. We have determined that the Bacillus subtilis strain named DEl 11 is generally recognized as safe (GRAS), through scientific procedures including review of published scientific literature, and based on its common use in food. The Bacillus subtilis strain named DE 111 is virtually identical to that in the common Asian food natto, which is derived by fermentation of Bacillus subtilis. The probiotic bacteria strain has been fully researched and shown to be safe. Scientific literature includes acute and sub-acute testing in animals. Furthermore, testing of Bacillus subtilis DEl 11 has proven to have no toxic effects, including no cytotoxicity and free of enterotoxins; no antibiotic resistance or other adverse effects. Literature also includes results of research conducted with infants, children, and elderly with no adverse effects; and three clinical trials performed by Deerland to prove efficacy have confirmed that Bacillus subtilis DE 111 is safe with no adverse health effects reported.
    [Show full text]
  • NATIONS Recipes Prayfor the Global NATIONS Recipes
    PRAYfor the Global NATIONS Recipes PRAYfor the Global NATIONS Recipes Saudi Arabia ARABIAN PENINSULA Karak Tea INSTRUCTIONS INGREDIENTS 1 Place all ingredients into a pot. Boiling water 1 L (4.25 cups) Loose leaf black tea (Alwazah Tea-Swan brand) 2 Let come to a boil on medium heat for a few minutes. 4 grams (2 tablespoons) Sugar 38 grams (3 tablespoons) 3 Strain into tea pot/carafe/dallah. 1 can of evaporated milk 160 ml 4 Pour into small cups to serve. Clove 1 piece Black peppercorns 2 pieces Black pepper a pinch Cardamom 2 pods Cardamom powder 2 grams (1 teaspoon) Nutmeg a pinch Saff ron a pinch Cinnamon a pinch Cinnamon sti ck 1 small sti ck Ginger 1 slice OM.org/pray-for-the-nati ons PRAYfor the Global NATIONS Recipes Niger SAHEL Tuwon Laushi + Okra Sauce INSTRUCTIONS INGREDIENTS 1 Fill a pot with water and bring to a boil. Corn fl our 225-300 grams (1½ -2 cups) 2 In a separate bowl, create a paste by mixing ½ cup of corn fl our and a small amount of cold water. 3 Add paste to the boiling water and sti r with a wooden spoon or paddle, slowly adding more corn fl our in order to achieve the desired porridge texture. Keep sti rring to avoid clumps. Tuwon Laushi (in Hausa, also known as maize paste or white paste) is the most 4 Once the porridge is cooked according to the widely consumed dish in Niger, especially in cook’s taste, in fi st-sized porti ons, scoop and rural areas.
    [Show full text]
  • History of Uncommon Fermented Soyfoods: 157 References in Chronological Order
    UNCOMMON FERMENTED SOYFOODS 1 HISTORY OF UNCOMMON FERMENTED SOYFOODS (379 AD to 2012): EXTENSIVELY ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY AND SOURCEBOOK Including: Soybean Wine, Cantonese Wine Starter, Soy Ogi, Soy Dhokla, Soy Dosa / Dosai, Soy Idli. Compiled by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi 2012 Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center UNCOMMON FERMENTED SOYFOODS 2 Copyright (c) 2012 by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information and retrieval systems - except for use in reviews, without written permission from the publisher. Published by: Soyinfo Center P.O. Box 234 Lafayette, CA 94549-0234 USA Phone: 925-283-2991 Fax: 925-283-9091 www.soyinfocenter.com [email protected] ISBN 9781928914495 (Uncommon Fermented Soyfoods without hyphens) ISBN 978-1-928914-49-5 (Uncommon Fermented Soyfoods with hyphens) Printed 21 Oct. 2012 Price: Available on the Web free of charge Search engine keywords: History of soy ogi History of soy dhokla History of soy dosa History of soy dosai History of soy idli Bibliography of soy ogi Bibliography of soy dhokla Bibliography of soy dosa Bibliography of soy dosai Bibliography of soy idli Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center UNCOMMON FERMENTED SOYFOODS 3 Contents Page Dedication and Acknowledgments.................................................................................................................................. 4 Introduction and Brief
    [Show full text]
  • Educating the Dietary Supplement Industry on What Goes Into Quality Audits and Auditor Quality
    PLUS Environmental Controls ■ pH in Dairy Products ■ Cadmium: A Clandestine Threat Volume 22 Number 1 FEBRUARY / MARCH 2015 Educating the dietary supplement industry on what goes into quality audits and auditor quality WWW.FOODQUALITYANDSAFETY.COM HEAD BUZZING WITH AUDIT CONCERNS? It’s not just the pests you have to worry about – it’s the proof. Steritech’s AuditReady® Pest Prevention Program gives you the best of both. Our trained experts design, implement, and manage a customized plan. They follow through with consistent service, and provide complete, accurate documentation. Is your pest program everything it should be? Find out. Let a Steritech expert perform a program evaluation. Call 1.800.868.0089 or visit www.steritech.com/auditready. By her analysis, it’s sweet and safe. We’re not going to sugarcoat it. We know the development of safe food and beverage products requires the right tools for analysis. Our goal is to provide product and service solutions across the entire research and development work ow for food and beverage. Sigma-Aldrich o ers a suite of analytical products and lab reagents to ensure your purity determination and composition veri cation tests are quick and accurate. Visit our website to learn more about our tools for analysis. It’s safe to say you’ll like it. sigma-aldrich.com/food ©2015 Sigma-Aldrich Co. LLC. All rights reserved. SIGMA-ALDRICH is a trademark of Sigma-Aldrich Co. LLC, registered in the US and other countries. 83042 83042_FQS Feb Print Ad - Sweet Flavors.indd 1 1/20/15 3:36 PM THE POWER OF MOLECULAR DIAGNOSTICS IN THE PALM OF YOUR HAND® Innovative molecular detection for food safety made simple, accessible, and affordable The FIRST AOAC-RI certified vertical flow-based molecular test Veriflow® represents a new, ultra sensitive and user- friendly class of diagnostics: molecular flow-based technology for the rapid detection of food pathogens.
    [Show full text]
  • A-Tour-Of-African-Gastronomy-2020
    A TOUR OF AFRICAN GASTRONOMY https://www.e-unwto.org/doi/book/10.18111/9789284422357 - Friday, February 19, 2021 9:41:13 PM IP Address:197.239.5.51 An invitation to discover Africa through its gastronomy… So much of a nations’ culture is defined by food. UNWTO is proud to invite you to join our Tour of African Gastronomy. The rich and endlessly diverse flavours of the continent tell stories and rituals steeped in history. Explore the legacy of centuries of amazing culinary traditions hand in hand with some of the most prominent figures of African Gastronomy. Over thirty Chefs will take you on a trip around the wonderful flavours and delicacies whose preparation alone is akin to a performance. Couscous earns a place among the World’s Intangible Cultural Heritage The knowledge, know-how and practices related to the production and consumption of couscous have been inscribed on the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage on 16 December 2020 as a result of a joint application by Algeria, Mauritania, Morocco and Tunisia. Couscous is usually served with a range of side dishes, such as spicy stews, meats, fishes or vegetables, which vary according to the traditions of each place or cook. Created to promote a better protection of important intangible cultural heritages worldwide and the awareness of their significance, the UNESCO list includes social practices https://www.e-unwto.org/doi/book/10.18111/9789284422357 - Friday, February 19, 2021 9:41:13 PM IP Address:197.239.5.51 of a country or region expressed by means of knowledges, know-hows, celebrations, art forms and other activities.
    [Show full text]