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My Voyages Through the Andaman Sea and Gulf of Thailand

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My Voyages Through the Andaman Sea and Gulf of Thailand My Voyages through the Andaman Sea and Gulf of Thailand By Geoff Walker The Andaman Sea is renowned for its stunning sunsets, beauty, and recently permitted eco-tourism. The Andaman and Nicobar Group consist of a group of about 570 islands that run virtually north and south, of which 38 are inhabited, situated at the juncture of the Bay of Bengal and the Andaman Sea. This chain of islands serves as the boundary between the Bay of Bengal to the west, and the Andaman Sea to the east. The territory is about 93 miles north of Aceh, the northern tip of Sumatra, in Indonesia and separated from Thailand and Myanmar by the exotic Andaman Sea. Most of the islands are part of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, politically administered by India, the archipelago Islands became part of India in 1950 and was declared as a union territory of the nation in 1956 and is now known as the Union Territory of India. The Andaman and Nicobar Islands (which form the southern section of the archipelago) are separated by a broad channel, known as the Ten Degree Channel. The waters and Islands of the Andaman and Nicobar group are pristine and a tourist’s paradise in every stretch of the imagination and must surely, be classified as a boutique destination for any visitor. The Andaman Sea, particularly the western coast of the Malay and Thailand Peninsula, and the Andaman and Nicobar Islands of India and Myanmar are rich in coral reefs and offshore islands with spectacular topography. The climate is typical of tropical islands of similar latitude. It is always warm, but with cooling light sea-breezes, mostly after sunset. All is conducive to balmy tropical evenings, where the scent of the densely jungled Islands, drift heavily on the light airs, and the bioluminescent plankton floating under the surface which flash brightly when roused by the ship passing through the calm sea. The administrative Capital or the Island Group is Port Blair, located in Middle Andaman. However, restrictions were imposed by the Indian government on visiting many of the Islands without a special permit, and it was not until 2018 that this was revoked on a trial basis, in order, to stimulate tourism, nevertheless, some islands such as North Sentinel Island remain strictly off limits to visitors, because of its indigenous culture and segregation. Port Blair, with its picturesque entrance and bountiful tropical bays, is now a major naval base for the Indian Navy. The port does cater for commercial vessels, mostly container, but movements are closely monitored and controlled by the Indian Navy. Within the limits of the port, in Navy Bay to be exact, about 2 miles west of Port Blair, is Viper Island, which derives its name from the vessel H.M.S. Viper in which Lt. Archibald Blair arrived in the Andaman and Nicobar Islands in 1789. The vessel, met with a tragic ending, and its wreckage was found near the island. This small island was the site of the infamous jail, where the British colonialists used to imprison convicts and political prisoners. The jail was abandoned when the Cellular Jail was constructed in 1906. Today, the two-storied Jail building still stands but in ruins to the plinth level, except for a portion of the roof with the outer wall dilapidated and crumbling. The Gallows stands atop of a nearby hill, and apart from being a beautiful, serene location and historical monument, it has now become a tourist attraction. During WW2 the Andaman Islands were occupied by the Japanese, until repossessed by the British at the conclusion of the War. The penal colony was eventually closed on 15 August 1947 when India gained independence. On 26 December 2004, the coast of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands was devastated by a 10-metre- high Tsunami following the 2004 Indian Ocean earthquake, which is the longest recorded earthquake, lasting for between 500 and 600 seconds. Although seriously affected by the Indian Ocean earthquake and Tsunami, Port Blair survived sufficiently to act as a base for the co-ordination of relief efforts in the islands. At the time of the earthquake and Tsunami, I was in Songkhla, Thailand, with a ship, and knew nothing of the disaster until watching the evening TV news. Fortunately, Songkhla is on the eastern seaboard of the Thai Isthmus, facing the Gulf of Thailand, and was therefore protected and unaffected by the event. Whereas the Island of Phuket, which is only about 160 miles distant (as the crow flies) on the western side of the peninsula was very severely damaged, with considerable loss of life. The Andaman and Nicobar Chain of Islands with the inset showing the magnificent natural harbor offered by Port Blair. The infamous “Gallows” at Viper Island Beautiful Viper Island. The Mergui Archipelago is a group of some 800 islands and islets off the coast of Myanmar in the Andaman Sea. The archipelago was most likely first settled by Malay sailors, or Sea Gypsies, who arrived from the south. However, it remained largely uninhabited until the 20th century. Malays and Chinese traders used the inner waters to escape the southwest monsoon, while larger ships avoided the complicated maritime geography, reefs, and narrow passages. Pirates and slavers also used it as a refuge because it was almost impossible to control. The islands began to be accurately charted only after British occupation in 1824. First, Captain Ross surveyed the outer islands in the late 1820s, followed by Captain Lloyd in the inner islands in the late 1830s. The unspoiled and pristine waters surrounding the Mergui Archipelago are renowned for Whales, Whale Sharks, and Manta Rays at certain times of the year and have become a major tourist attraction in recent years. I clearly recall being anchored in the lee of one of the archipelago islands during severe Southwesterly Monsoonal weather and sighting numerous whales and Manta Rays in the clear waters. The Myanmar Military Government only opened the area to foreign tourism in 1997, previously these continental island gems remained off limits to foreigners, until the first dive operators from Thailand negotiated limited access and commenced offering cruises to the Andaman and Mergui Archipelagos in Indonesian style Pinisi sailing vessels, or luxury super yachts, for those in search of some of the best dive spots in Asia. An area renowned for its abundance and diversity of aquatic sealife, as well as the wide variation of coral reefs, which sit off many of the silver sandy beaches; the Mergui Archipelago is still one of the least-visited places on earth, but is tranquility and beauty personified. A caption showing the Mergui Archipelago, just off the southern coast of Myanmar. Mergui is the main port for the area located at the extreme southeastern sector of the Myanmar coast. The Town of Mergui occupies a small island at the mouth of the Great Tenasserim River. Mergui is often a busy port engaged mostly in shallow drafted coastal vessels trading north to Yangon (Rangoon) and south to Malaysian ports in the Malacca Straits. Mergui is a fascinating town with an interesting history, which dates back, to around 1500. Sailing ships of the time, faced with undependable winds, uncharted reefs, strong currents, and pirates of the Malacca Straits to the south, preferred to offload their goods in Mergui and have cargo trans-shipped, often by elephant convoys, across the Thai/Malaysia Peninsula to the ancient kingdoms of Ayutthaya (early Kingdom of Siam between 1350 to 1767), Cambodia and southern Indo China. The importance of Mergui as an historic Indian Ocean trading post can still be seen today, with the interesting mix of Chinese, Indian, Arabic and Burmese heritage. Serenely sailing, and island hopping through the Mergui Archipelago on a Ketch rigged Penisi, must rank amongst one of the most delightful ways in which to explore these magnificent and unspoiled islands. Truly, one of the last remaining paradises in Asia. Heading south, into Thai waters, there are two ports on the western seaboard, namely Phuket Port and Krabi Port. Phuket Deep Sea Port is also known as Phuket Port and Port of Phuket, situated on the western seaboard of Thailand, on the Andaman Sea. The port is at Makham Bay, on the eastern coast of Phuket island. Larger vessels access this port by a 120m wide channel, dredged to -6.8 m (Chart Datum), and around 1.5 km in length. For convenience 360 m turning circle is available to the northern part of the quay. It is suited for medium size multipurpose cargo vessels and Cruise Ships, which frequent the port. Breakbulk, Oil, and Passenger Ship wharfage facilities are available. Phuket Island has become an internationally popular tourist destination in recent years and has largely been rebuilt following the disastrous Tsunami in 2004. It is particularly frequented by those seeking adventure at the nearby Phi Phi Islands and magnificent underwater diving, available offshore at Krabi, just across Phang Nga Bay. Showing the close proximity of Phuket Island and Krabi Gulf of Thailand Phuket Island, located on trading routes between India and China, was subjected to foreign influences long before many other parts of Thailand. During the southwest monsoon season, ships would anchor in the safe sheltered harbours of Phuket and wait for the northeast monsoon winds, which would allow them to proceed to India. In the 16th century Phuket was established as a major source of tin and became an important trading post, It was also during this period that the first Europeans arrived on Phuket. The interior jungle was inhabited by indigenous tribes until they were displaced in the 19th century by tin miners.
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