MARRON HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS CA-2900 2000 Haymar Drive HABS CA-2900 Carlsbad San Diego County California

PHOTOGRAPHS

WRITTEN HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE DATA

FIELD RECORDS

HISTORIC AMERICAN BUILDINGS SURVEY National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior 1849 C Street NW Washington, DC 20240-0001

2000 Haymar Dr., Carlsbad, San Diego County, California APN 167-040-31-00

The Marrón-Hayes Adobes Historic District is located at latitude: 33.179307, longitude: -117.309229. The coordinates represent the central point of the Marrón-Hayes Adobe, the extant building of the historic district. These coordinates were obtained on July 1, 2014, using Google Earth’s GPS mapping grade unit. The coordinates’ datum is North American Datum 1983.

Shelley Hayes Caron

Residence

The Marrón-Hayes Adobes Historic District is comprised of the extant Marrón- Hayes Adobe (ca. 1854, altered 1947) and the melted Hayes Adobe (constructed by ca. 1875 and added onto thereafter, deteriorating by 1930s, ruins only by 1965, no longer extant). The Marrón-Hayes Adobes Historic District was once part of Silvestre Marrón’s much larger 362-acre ranch (Figure 1). The Marrón- Hayes Adobes Historic District is significant for its association with Silvestre Marrón, one of the first non-Indian settlers of the present-day Oceanside- Carlsbad area, and John Chauncey Hayes, an influential late nineteenth-century and early-twentieth-century lawyer, judge, newspaper man, farmer, real estate developer, and one of the founders of the city of Oceanside. The extant Marrón- Hayes Adobe is significant as a rare and intact example of a late Mexican-style adobe in San Diego County (1850-1906), as well as an excellent example of mid- twentieth-century (1947) Mission Revival architecture, which was a romanticized revival of the Spanish-Mexican architectural roots of San Diego.

Sarah Stringer-Bowsher, Senior Historian; Jennifer Gorman, Senior Architectural Historian; and Shannon Davis, Senior Architectural Historian, all with ASM Affiliates, completed this report in January 2015.

This project was prepared by ASM Affiliates for the Quarry Creek Investors, LLC to complete the HABS documentation for the Marrón-Hayes Adobes Historic District. This project was conducted as mitigation for the planned development of land adjacent to the historic district, in consultation with the Heritage Documentation Program of the National Park Service’s Cultural Resources Division, Washington, D.C. ASM prepared this outline-format history, as well as the sketch plan of the structure. Photography was taken and printed by Christopher Wray, professional HABS/HAER photographer. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 2)

ca. 1854 original construction; possible alterations in 1888; known alterations and additions in 1947.

Unknown; however, it is highly unlikely that a professional architect was involved with the building’s construction.

In 1842, Rancho Agua Hedionda was granted to Juan María Romualdo Marrón (1808-1853). In 1853, 362 acres of the ranch, the remains of which generally comprise the Marrón-Hayes Adobes Historic District, were willed to Silvestre Marrón from his older brother, Juan María Romualdo. In ca. 1854, Silvestre Marrón (1827-1906) constructed the extant adobe building now known as the Marrón-Hayes Adobe. Subsequently, Silvestre Marrón’s children constructed residences and other structures on the land. Silvestre Marrón’s daughter Felipa married John Chauncey Hayes (1853-1934), and the two lived on the property sometime after their marriage in 1875 until 1887 in what is now remembered as the Hayes Adobe or melted adobe. The melted adobe was located west of the extant Marrón- Hayes Adobe. The extant Marrón-Hayes Adobe was left vacant through the 1930s. In 1947, Fred Hayes (son of John Chauncey Hayes and Felipa Marrón Hayes) rehabilitated his grandfather’s adobe. At that time, Fred Hayes also expanded the adobe by adding west and north sections, which resulted in the creation of a central enclosed courtyard. The adobe was later willed to Fred’s son, Berry Monty Hayes in 1957. Berry Monty Hayes died in 1970, and the property is currently owned by his daughter Shelley Hayes Caron.

Silvestre Marrón, ca. 1854; Fred Hayes, 1947

No original plans are extant, and likely were not drawn. Precise original appearance is unknown, but it is believed to have been a one- story L-plan building with adobe walls, a clay tile pitched roof, and a corredor lining the south and east facades, which served as the primary circulation space as well as living space.

The extant adobe was constructed ca. 1854. It was a one- story adobe with a tile roof and a courtyard. Based on available historic photographs, alterations to the house appear to have been made to the west end of the southern ell prior to the 1930s. Additional changes include a replacement of an original tile roof with wood shingles and removal of chimneys. In 1947, a one-story west addition was constructed, as well as a detached one-story addition to the north. The additions formed a square with a central open courtyard. The adobe was updated in 1947 to accommodate electricity, heat, and plumbing. A doorbell system was also installed. The windows and doors on the original adobe were replaced in 1947. No other alterations have been made to the house since 1947.

B. Historical Context:

Mission Grazing Lands in San Diego County Become Ranchos MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 3)

The Marrón-Hayes Adobes Historic District was once part of grazing lands for Mission San Luis Rey de Francia, one of 21 Spanish and Mexican missions established largely along the coastline from San Diego to Sonoma from 1769 to 1823. The Spanish colonial government authorized land grants in California for the missions, presidios, and pueblos, along with some large private grants given as ranchos under the stipulation that the land granted not exceed 13,285.2 acres (later increased for agricultural uses) and that a minimum of 2,000 head of livestock roam each rancho.1 Rancho grants encouraged agriculture and industry, and were often given to soldiers and settlers. The Spanish government allotted approximately 30 private ranchos throughout Alta California.2 In present-day San Diego County, the Spanish government established two missions: Mission San Diego de Alcalá (1769) and Mission San Luis Rey de Francia (1798). A presidio in San Diego safeguarded missions and settlers at Mission San Diego and San Luis Rey and beyond.3 In San Diego County, all ranchos were granted during the Mexican period (1821-46), and many were granted in the 1840s to the governors’ friends, relatives, and businessmen, most notably on the eve of war with the United States.4 Ranching on large expanses of land was a Spanish-period practice in Alta California that continued into the Mexican period.

Ranching during the Spanish period (1769-1821) was the “chief economic resource” as ranches supplied the missions.5 Pasture and water were the two essential components in determining the health of livestock, and the Spanish government sought out places that could provide both in abundance. The proximity of pasture and water also typically coincided with the placement of Native communities. Observing this fact, the Spanish government looked to establish mission properties in suitable areas and to appropriate the labor of Native people in addition to the natural resources of the Natives’ traditional territories.6 Since ranches supplied the missions, the number of ranches a mission had reflected the importance of the livestock industry for that mission. At one time, San Luis Rey had more than 20 ranches covering 1,200 mi.2. Those missions with the largest ranges had the highest number of herds. Seven missions, including San Luis Rey, were the main livestock raisers for the 21-mission system.7 Mission lands extended from one mission to the next, with individual ranchos or outposts supporting the missions with farming and grazing.8 As a consequence, disputes between missions over grazing lands were common, particularly during periods of drought; mission fathers also protested

1 Mario T. Garcia, “Merchants and Dons: San Diego’s Attempt at Modernization, 1850-1860,” Journal of San Diego History 21, no. 1 (1975):3. 2 Cris Perez, “Grants of Land in California Made By the Spanish or Mexican Authorities,” report prepared by the Staff of the State Lands Commission (23 August 1982): 3, available at http://www.slc.ca.gov/reports/grants_of_ land/part_1.pdf (accessed 4 December 2014). 3 W. W. Robinson, Land in California (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1948); Perez, “Grants of Land in California.” 4 Paul Gates, “Adjudication of Spanish-Mexican Land Claims in California,” Huntington Library Quarterly 21, no. 3 (1958): 229; Cecil Moyer, Historic Ranchos of California (San Diego: Union-Tribune Publishing, 1969), vii. 5 Mario T. Garcia, “Merchants and Dons,” 2. 6 Robert H. Jackson and Edward Castillo, Indians, Franciscans, and Spanish Colonization: The Impact of the Mission System on California Indians (Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press, 1995), 11, 50. 7 R. Louis Gentilcore, “Missions and Mission Lands in Alta California,” Annals of the Association of American Geographers 51, no. 1 (1961): 67. 8 Robinson, Land in California; Perez, “Grants of Land in California,” 7. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 4)

encroachment on their lands by military and private ranchers.9 In San Diego County, Buena Vista Creek would later become the dividing line between the territories linked to two missions.10

When Mission San Luis Rey was founded in 1798, the mission received more than 300 cattle and 508 sheep, along with horses and oxen.11 The pasture land of San Luis Rey was far superior to that of Mission San Diego, yet rainfall remained a consistent source of concern for pasturing livestock.12 Despite inconsistent rainfall, the mission recorded more than 20,000 head of livestock just 10 years later. Livestock supplied the missions with a variety of essential resources, including meat, soap, and hides for clothing, shoes, ropes, and harnesses. These products were used for domestic purposes as well as in extra- regional trade, which the missionaries used to acquire finished products from Mexico. Until 1821, the number of livestock at the mission properties fluctuated between 20,000 and 25,000 head, approximately half of which were sheep.13 The subsequent opening of the international hide and tallow trade around 1822 proved to be the impetus for a precipitous increase in the livestock holdings at San Luis Rey.

Mexican independence from Spain in 1821 ushered in a host of new political and economic realities for the Franciscans at Mission San Luis Rey and elsewhere. Though the financial and material support directed to the missions from the Spanish government had all but ceased a decade earlier, Mexican independence placed an even greater burden on the missions to supply food and other products to military forces in the region. In order to meet the growing demand from military and civilian forces, Mission San Luis Rey looked to profit from an expanded hide and tallow trade while also maintaining the agricultural surpluses of the prior decades. The story was quite different for neighboring Mission San Juan Capistrano, which saw its production of both grain and livestock decline precipitously in the 1820s and 1830s.14 San Luis Rey recorded the highest cattle production of any mission in 1832.15

The economic dominance of the missions ended in 1833, when the Mexican government began secularizing the missions of Alta California in an effort to break the monopoly that the Franciscan missionaries held over vast quantities of land and Native laborers. In the years following Mexico’s dissolution of the mission system and its distrust of the Franciscan leadership, many, including Fr. Peyri at Mission San Luis Rey, left the country. A government administrator was appointed to oversee the management of the former mission properties. The Mexican government attempted, in a few instances, to fulfill its stated intention of turning mission lands over to the Native Americans who were largely responsible for the valuable improvements. Some of the earliest examples of this effort were the formation of Native American pueblos at San Juan Capistrano and Las Flores in 1833. However, efforts to give the Luiseño more autonomy over their lands and affairs were undermined by the desire of Spanish and Mexican settlers or Californios to

9 Gentilcore, “Missions and Mission Lands in Alta California,” 67. 10 Buena Vista Creek became the dividing line in 1829. Zephyrin Engelhardt, San Diego Mission (San Francisco: James H. Barry, 1920), 227-229. 11 Zephryin Englehardt, San Luis Rey Mission (San Francisco: James H. Barry, 1921), 14. 12 Gentilcore, “Missions and Mission Lands in Alta California,” 67. 13 Englehardt, San Luis Rey Mission, 222. 14 Ibid., 88-89; Englehardt, San Juan Capistrano Mission (Los Angeles: Standard Printing 1922), 184-185. 15 Gentilcore, “Missions and Mission Lands in Alta California,” 67. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 5)

gain control of the vast grazing lands and farms formerly controlled by the missions.16 Secularization of the Alta California missions initiated a rapid decline in the vast herds of livestock formerly controlled by the Franciscans, as private individuals assumed control of mission grazing lands.17 In the 1840s, private Mexican-granted ranchos characterized the landscape and economy.

Rancho Agua Hedionda: One of 33 Patented Land Grants in San Diego County18

In 1835, when the Mission San Luis Rey lands were secularized, they stretched from San Clemente in the north to Encinitas in the south and from the ocean inland to the Pala Mountains. Six ranchos (Santa Margarita, Pala, San Juan, Temecula, San Jacinto, and San Marcos) were identified as land assets of the mission. Most of these ranchos had served the mission as cattle and sheep grazing land, with Santa Margarita being the largest livestock ranch. As part of the dissolution of the mission’s assets, outlying ranchos were thereafter granted to private rancheros.19

Since ranchos were essentially large grazing properties, rancho claims in Alta California were made and granted during both the Spanish and Mexican periods without full documentation as to the boundaries of the grants. Roughly drawn diseño maps only showed a general area, and most of the ranchos did not have easily discernable or marked corners or boundaries. Cattle and sheep identified by family brands roamed freely on huge swaths of unfenced land. Grants were considered permanent in the sense that the owners were granted the use of the land but usually did not own official fee-simple title. They were also not authorized to sell their land.20 By 1846, the Mexican government had granted ranchos in San Diego County with acreage that ranged from a little more than 28 acres to 133,440 acres for the largest rancho, Santa Margarita y Las Flores. Rancho Agua Hedionda had 13,311 acres.21 Commencement of the United States ownership over California, marked by the signing of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo on February 2, 1848, ushered in a period of political, economic, and social changes that affected nearly every aspect of life in southern California.

An expansion of the U.S. frontier to the Pacific Coast opened up a vast new territory for Euro-American immigrants who would help to reshape the communities in the region. Westward emigration, which had previously consisted of a relatively small number of merchants, miners, and land speculators, grew to a flood of fortune seekers in late 1848 when word spread throughout the country that gold had been discovered at John Sutter’s mill on the south fork of the American River northeast of Sacramento. The population of

16 Englehardt, San Luis Rey Mission. 17 Jackson and Castillo, Indians, Franciscans, and Spanish Colonization, 101; Hubert Howe Bancroft, The Works of Hubert Howe Bancroft, Volume XXI, History of California, Volume IV, 1840-1845 (San Francisco: A. L. Bancroft and Company, 1886), 324. 18 Perez, “Grants of Land in California,” 95-99. 19 George Fisher, “Map of ranchos surrounding the San Luis Rey Mission: San Diego County, Calif.,” 30 December, 1853, South District Court, California, Southern District, Land case 339 SD, land case map D-1386A, University of California, Berkeley, Bancroft Library, available at, http://www.oac.cdlib.org/view?docId=hb8489p15p;developer= local;style=oac4;doc.view=items (accessed 1 November 2014); A valuation inventory taken in early 1835 identified the existing land assets of the mission. Las Flores was not included, probably because it had been established as a pueblo for emancipated Indians in 1833. Englehardt, San Luis Rey Mission, 97-100. 20 Gates, “Adjudication of Spanish-Mexican Land Claims in California,” 215. 21 Perez, “Grants of Land in California,” 95-99. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 6)

California jumped from less than 10,000 people in 1848 to 255,122 in 1850 when California was admitted into the Union.22 Settlers increasingly squatted on land that belonged to Californios, citing preemption rights.23 Confirming land titles issued by the Mexican government in the 1840s as land patents under the U.S. government proved an arduous endeavor, often impeded by decades of land title disputes in the courts. Often ranchos overlapped, and when California became part of the United States the federal government had to confirm the actual boundaries of Mexican land claims with detailed surveys. In San Diego County, many surveys were completed in the late 1850s and the early 1870s.24 Settlers challenged the validity of Spanish-Mexican claims through the Board of Land Commissioners, established in 1851. Unsatisfied claimants appealed the Board decisions to the federal district courts and then to the Supreme Court. All land claims rejected by the courts went to public auction.25 Many Spanish-speaking Californios found the legal process costly, time-consuming, and confusing, and struggled to prove and retain their land holdings in the succeeding few decades.

Meanwhile, the rapid rise in California’s population as part of the Gold Rush raised the demand for food and supplies. Livestock prices skyrocketed in the face of high demand for beef coming from mining camps in northern California. Cattle that had traditionally only been utilized for their hides and tallow were now more valuable for their meat. By early 1849, cattle were selling for $50 to $75 per head, nearly 10 times the price of just a few years earlier. Southern California ranchers responded to the increased demand by driving large numbers of cattle to northern markets in San Francisco, Stockton, and Sacramento.26 Ranchos contained the most fertile land, and cattle remained the primary economy of San Diego County into the beginning of the American period. Rancho owners became rich in land and cattle, but remained cash poor and dependent on the trade and barter system centered in Old Town San Diego.27

Many rancho owners or dons and doñas lived in Old Town and visited their ranchos until Old Town’s decline in the 1870s following the emergence of New Town and a destructive fire.28 Mayordomos oversaw the day-to-day operations of the ranchos and lived on-site in adobe complexes.29 Most ranchos were not like Cave J. Couts’ Rancho Guajome with its 20-room adobe with outbuildings, constructed in 1853. Instead, most were more reminiscent of a Spanish tradition, with two or three rooms without glass

22 Garcia, “Merchants and Dons,” 16; Kevin Starr, California: A History (New York: Modern Library, 2005), 79-80; United States Census Bureau, The Sixteenth Census of the United States, San Diego County (Washington, D.C., United States Government Printing Office, 1940). 23 Garcia, “Merchants and Dons,” 22-23. 24 Gates, “Adjudication of Spanish-Mexican Land Claims in California,” 216. 25 Garcia, “Merchants and Dons,” 22-23. 26 Robert Glass Cleland, The Cattle on a Thousand Hills: Southern California, 1850-1880 (San Marino: Huntington Library, 1941), 106-107. 27 Lynne Newell Christenson and Ellen L. Sweet, Ranchos of San Diego County (Charleston: Arcadia Publishing, 2008), 7; Richard Crawford, “San Diego County’s Rancho Heritage” California Chronical (Fall 1992): 6-7. San Diego History Center, vertical files, Miscellaneous Ranchos folder. Perez, “Grants of Land in California.” 28 California State Parks, “The Old Town at San Diego,” available at http://www.150.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=27600 (accessed 9 August 2014). 29 Christenson and Sweet, Ranchos of San Diego County, 7; Carlos Manuel Salomon, Pio Pico: The Last Governor of Mexican California, (Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 2010). MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 7)

windows.30 Typical adobes had 3-ft.-deep walls, thatched roofs, and earthen floors.31 Ranchos were largely self-sufficient, grazing cattle, sheep, and horses while producing their own grain, fruit, and other food necessities, bartering and trading when needed. Most of the labor was supplied by Native Americans, who worked in the ranch house and as vaqueros. The hospitality of the dons and doñas is well documented, as is the importance of rodeos and various events such as weddings and baptisms that were celebrated for days or weeks.32 The Californios lived well until the bottom fell out of the cattle industry.

Elevated livestock prices did not last long, and after seven years of unprecedented prosperity the market was flooded in 1855 with sheep from New Mexico and cattle from the Midwest. The large herds of cattle raised in anticipation of the continuation of high prices were suddenly of little value and were once again slaughtered for their hides and tallow.33 A drought in southern California in 1856 and 1857 further diminished the prospects for ranchers and resulted in the deaths of a large number of cattle.34 The disastrous flooding in 1861-1862 eroded soil and consumed adobe houses, overtook trees and vineyards, and drowned livestock. Droughts in the fall and winter of 1862-1863 prompted ranchers to thin their herds by selling cow hides. Diseases further plagued the industry.35 The drop in livestock prices challenged the financial solvency of southern California ranchers, many of whom were unable to repay the large debts they had acquired at high interest rates based on the expectation of continued high demand for livestock.36 As a result, by 1860, most Californios did not retain their original land holdings, as they had sold or mortgaged their properties to pay mounting debts.37

Land use in San Diego County transitioned in the 1860s and 1870s, when ranchos’ boundaries were confirmed and land could be officially conveyed once patented under federal homestead laws. Policies enacted when ranching was paramount in California began to be rolled back in the 1860s and 1870s as agricultural activity increased. The No- Fence Act of 1850 required agricultural property owners to construct fences around their lands if they wanted to protect them from livestock. Failure to construct a fence of the specified size and quality meant that the rancher was not liable for any damage caused by livestock. The policy shift began in 1857 when a state law was passed restricting the grazing of livestock on land not owned by the rancher. In 1866, a so-called “No Fence Law” was enacted and applied in selected counties, which placed the responsibility to control livestock on the rancher instead of the farmer.38 The law was expanded statewide in the early 1870s.39 The effect of the policy was dramatically characterized by the San

30 “Old Rancho Names Live as Symbols of Romance, Music,” newspaper clipping, San Diego History Center, vertical files, Miscellaneous Ranchos Folder. 31 Crawford, “San Diego County’s Rancho Heritage.” 32 Christenson and Sweet, Ranchos of San Diego County, 7. 33 Cleland, The Cattle on a Thousand Hills, 109. 34 L. T. Burcham, California Range Land: An Historical-Ecological Study of the Range Resources of California (Sacramento: Division of Forestry, Department of Natural Resources, 1957), 143. 35 Crawford, “San Diego County’s Rancho Heritage.” 36 Paul Bryan Gray, Forster vs. Pico: The Struggle for the Rancho Santa Margarita (Spokane: Arthur H. Clarke, 2002), 101-104. 37 Garcia, “Merchants and Dons,” 24. 38 Burcham, California Range Land, 154-155. 39 John Davidson, “Padres’ Trial Abandoned in Building of New Santa Margarita Road,” San Diego Union, 25 February 1938. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 8)

Diego County Assessor in 1873 when he said that the “no-fence law has driven nearly all the stock out of our county.” A three-year drought from 1870 to 1873 was also to blame.40 Small farming communities were quickly established throughout San Diego County, and a completed second transcontinental railroad in November 1885 helped to initiate an unprecedented real estate boom for New Town that spilled over the county.41 Many of those who lived and worked on ranchos continued ranching, although agriculture was on the rise.

Rancho Agua Hedionda

The history of Rancho Agua Hedionda is similar in several ways to other ranchos in north San Diego County, such as Rancho Santa Margarita y Las Flores and Rancho Guajome. All three had been previously part of Mission San Luis Rey grazing lands that were carved out and granted in the 1840s during the Mexican period. Taxes and debts forced owners to mortgage their ranchos, resulting in land leasing and land titles contested through litigation. After decades of efforts to prove land claims within the United States government, all three ranchos (like many others in the county) were confirmed by federal patents in the 1870s and officially conveyable.42 Land now remembered as Rancho Agua Hedionda had been encountered by the Spanish government during the first Portolá expedition in 1769 and was identified as “stinking water” or agua hedionda probably due to the decaying matter in the lagoon and/or the sulfur springs. El Camino Real, the main route used by the government for travel and transporting goods amongst the 21 missions in California, extended through the rancho boundary near the present-day extant Marrón- Hayes Adobe.43 Although Rancho Agua Hedionda had been part of mission grazing land, its story as a Mexican rancho began in the 1830s.

During secularization in the 1830s, many gente de razón were staking claims for vast acreages of ex-mission lands and other areas around present-day San Diego County. The growing presidio population warranted the establishment of San Diego as a pueblo or town in 1834, and accordingly a new alcalde or mayor and two regidores or council members were elected. Don Juan María Osuna was appointed the first alcalde, and Juan María Marrón was one of the two regidores elected in 1835. Marrón, a high-ranking Spanish soldier, had moved his family from the San Diego Presidio to Old Town between 1821 and 1825. In 1826, his family moved to Mission San Gabriel as one of the four missions protected under the district of the San Diego Presidio. The family returned to Old Town around 1829. Juan María Marrón retired from military service in 1831 or 1834 and turned his attention to politics and ranching.44 The 1834 marriage of the oldest of his

40California Surveyor General, Biennial Report of the Surveyor General of State of California from December 4, 1871 to August 1, 1873 (Sacramento: T.A. Springer, 1873), 130. 41 Richard F. Pourade, The Glory Years (Union-Tribune Publishing Co., San Diego, 1964), 167-191. 42 Christenson and Sweet, Ranchos of San Diego County, 53; Iris H. W. Engstrand and Mary F. Ward “Rancho Guajome: An Architectural Legacy Preserved,” The Journal of San Diego History 41, no. 4 (Fall 1995); Gates, “Adjudication of Spanish-Mexican Land Claims in California,” 232; Cecil Moyer, Historic Ranchos of California, 28, 37, 69. 43 Cave Johnson Couts map in Englehardt, San Luis Rey Mission, 256-257. 44 Marrón had acquired livestock and met the conditions for a land grant, Rancho Los Cueros de Venado, where he constructed a house, cultivated the land, and grazed livestock according to land grant requirements. Ellen L. Sweet, “The Marróns of Rancho Agua Hedionda and Old Town San Diego,” paper given at the 36th Annual Institute of History (June 2004): 5-6; Thomas Savage, “Felipa Osuna: ‘The Oldest Resident of Old Town in 1878,’” translated MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 9)

seven surviving children, Juan María Romualdo Marrón, with Osuna’s daughter, Felipa Osuna, sealed the alliances of the two politically prominent families.45 Similar to other early San Diego families, the Osunas and Marróns had their primary homes at Old Town, at the hub of politics and daily life. The younger Juan María and Felipa started their family in 1834. Juan María Romualdo Marrón became one of two regidores in 1836. Although Old Town remained the center of activity, the pueblo’s status had been revoked in 1838 as the population declined, and the settlement became a sub-prefecture of Los Angeles.46

The Marrón family continued to participate in local politics in Old Town. In 1839, Juan María Romualdo Marrón and his father-in-law became jueces de paz or justices of the peace, authorized to make judgments in civil and criminal matters.47 That same year, Juan María Marrón and Juan María Romualdo Marrón both sought approval for land claims. The father’s claim to Rancho Los Cueros de Venado in Tijuana was confirmed48 and Juan María Romualdo Marrón applied for the sheep lands of San Luis Rey known as Rancho Agua Hedionda or San Francisco.49 Juan María Romualdo Marrón did not yet have the means to build a house and did not have cattle grazing on that property. However, he reapplied when he had the means, and the grant was issued on August 10, 1842. Following measurements taken by two locals, one of whom was his wife’s brother, a judge granted the land on October 7, 1842.50 His land grant stretched over 13,311.01 acres from the Pacific Ocean nearly to present-day Vista and from present-day Carlsbad south to Encina Canyon.51 It included the present-day cities of Carlsbad and parts of Oceanside (Figure 2).

Many early San Diego families only spent time on their ranches seasonally and for family or religious events, as they focused on the civic and political duties in San Diego. Typically mayordomos attended to day-to-day activities. The Marrón family was no different, though they were deeply connected to Mission San Luis Rey for religious and social purposes.52 The first known adobe house constructed on the ranch was erected by Juan María Romualdo Marrón ca. 1842.53 Juan María Romualdo Marrón’s youngest brother and godson Silvestre Marrón54 lived at the rancho as early as 1840 when he was 12 years old. Increasingly Silvestre shouldered greater operational responsibilities on the expansive ranch.55 Juan María Romualdo remained involved in politics and civic duties. and edited by Rose Marie Beebe and Robert Senkewicz, The Journal of San Diego History 55, no. 4 (Fall 2009): 234. 45 Sweet, “The Marróns of Rancho Agua Hedionda and Old Town San Diego,” 1, 4, 8. 46 Ibid., 2, 9-10. 47 Ibid., 11. According to Sweet (2004), Marrón served in this capacity in 1839, 1840, and 1844. 48 The title was recorded in 1834. Sweet “The Marróns of Rancho Agua Hedionda and Old Town San Diego,” 7. 49 Christenson and Sweet, Ranchos of San Diego County, 53; Sweet, “The Marróns of Rancho Agua Hedionda and Old Town San Diego,” 11. 50 Sweet, “The Marróns of Rancho Agua Hedionda and Old Town San Diego,” 12. 51 Moyer, Historic Ranchos of California, 1969, 37. 52 Sweet, “The Marróns of Rancho Agua Hedionda and Old Town San Diego,” 12, 14-15 53 Construction of a home was one of the requirements of the land grant. Stephen D. Mikesell, “Historical Architectural Survey Report, Rancho Del Oro/SR 78 Interchange Project. Attachment 3,” report prepared for Gallegos and Associates, February 2000, 6. This adobe was documented in 1937, and the documentation is archived at the Library of Congress. Available at http://www.loc.gov/pictures/collection/hh/item/ca0565/. 54 Silvestre was born at Mission San Gabriel in 1827. 55 Sweet, “The Marróns of Rancho Agua Hedionda and Old Town San Diego,” 12-14. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 10)

Political alliances during the 1830s and 1840s were not constant and not always clearly defined. Juan María Romualdo Marrón had aligned himself with Pío Pico, José Antonio Carrillo, and Juan Bandini among others to overthrow Governor Manuel Victoria in 1831. Juan María Romualdo Marrón served as justice of the peace in 1840 and 1844, but political tensions were rising. With the movement of the U.S. Army in 1846, Governor Pío Pico sold off Mission San Luis Rey to his older brother and ally. Juan María Romualdo Marrón had been placed in charge of the mission by the new Governor Pico in 1845 and retained authority in 1846.56 The changing alliances of the times are illuminated in assertions that Marrón had been on the side of the U.S. government during the Mexican-American War because he was able to pass from the mission to his ranch through the American forces. In consequence, he was allegedly stripped of his horses and cattle in 1846 because he had collaborated with Americans.57 Yet Marrón had faithfully taken care of Mission San Luis Rey, and Felipa’s brothers and Silvestre Marrón all fought for Mexico in the Battle of San Pasqual on December 6, 1846.58 Not much resistance followed that battle and Silvestre was drawn into service under the American Commodore Robert F. Stockton as a vaquero and messenger who delivered messages from Los Angeles to San Diego. Once the war ended, Juan María Romualdo Marrón was one of three men appointed to prepare resolutions for the two governments. Juan María Romualdo Marrón became mayor of San Diego after Juan Bandini resigned in October 1848.59 Silvestre Marrón was in charge of the rancho while Juan Maria was alcalde (1848-1850) and lived at Old Town. Juan María Romualdo and his wife Felipa resided in Old Town from 1848 until he died on September 19, 1853.60 He had assets valued at almost $10,000.61 He willed his wife Felipa the house in Old Town, with his children inheriting the two lots on either side. His father’s ranch remained in the family, and Rancho Agua Hedionda was willed to Felipa and his children. One corner of the ranch, El Salto62 en Buenavista, was willed to his youngest brother Silvestre, along with the grazing right to the entire ranch (see Figures 1-2).63

Following the death of Juan María Romualdo Marrón, his immediate family, like many other Californios of the period, found themselves in debt, and accordingly they mortgaged the land to Francis Hinton in September 1860 for $6,000.64 As part of that

56 Ibid., 7, 12, 14-15 57 Moyer, Historic Ranchos of California, 37. 58 Sweet, “The Marróns of Rancho Agua Hedionda and Old Town San Diego,” 15-18; Thomas Savage, “Felipa Osuna,’” 234-236. 59 Sweet, “The Marróns of Rancho Agua Hedionda and Old Town San Diego,” 19-20. 60 San Diego County, 18th Judicial District Court, Testimony of Philip Crosthwaite, 23 November-4 December 1874. San Diego History Center, Public Record Collection, District Court File #601A; Sweet, “The Marróns of Rancho Agua Hedionda and Old Town San Diego,” 20-21. 61 San Diego County, Assessor and Recorder, Tax Assessment Records for Juan María Romualdo Marrón, 1855. San Diego History Center, Box 1, File 6. 62 Buena Vista Creek traveled from Vista through Milpitas or “little garden” and then dropped over the rocks at El Salto creating a 40-ft waterfall. 63 Sweet, “The Marróns of Rancho Agua Hedionda and Old Town San Diego,” 19-20. 64 The mortgage placed Rancho Agua Hedionda as collateral in exchange for $6,000 supplied by Francis Hinton. San Diego County, 18th Judicial District Court, Mortgage prepared by Philip Crosthwaite and Joseph S. Mannasse and signed by Felipe de Marrón, Luz Marrón, Jesus Marrón, José Marrón, and José María Estudillo, dated 7 September 1860. Exhibit A.S.G. No. 4. San Diego History Center, Public Record Collection, District Court File #601A. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 11)

mortgage, José Marrón and José María Estudillo could continue to gather salt, which would have been important for salting beef for jerky. When the family could not repay their debts in 1865 due to the cattle market being depressed on account of the floods and droughts, Hinton assumed ownership of the vast rancho.65 When Hinton, a bachelor, passed away in 1870, his mayordomo Robert Kelly acquired his rancho. In August 1874, Robert Kelly filed a complaint against Silvestre Marrón. Kelly claimed that in 1872 he had come into ownership of a portion of land that had been part of Rancho Agua Hedionda, land that Silvestre Marrón contested was his.66 Silvestre Marrón asserted that his property El Salto en Buenavista was the “tierras de siembra de la Rinconada” (sowing grounds in the corner of the ranch) and had been his land since his brother had willed it to him in 1853 and was made legal with a simple-fee title. He also had been given the right by his brother to pasture all his livestock on all of Rancho Agua Hedionda.67 Silvestre lost the court case but his lawyer, Benjamin Hayes, planned on appealing the case to the Supreme Court. In an effort to settle the matter, Kelly officially deeded El Salto en Buenavista (362 acres) on February 27, 1875 to Silvestre Marrón in return for renouncing his grazing rights on Rancho Agua Hedionda.68

When the bachelor Kelly died in 1890, the property was split amongst his nieces and nephews.69 Despite the Marrón family’s efforts to regain their mortgaged land through litigation, it had become Hinton and then Kelly land. Felipa continued living in Old Town, where she eventually depended on the government for a monthly living stipend. Only El Salto en Buenavista stayed within Marrón family ownership.70

65 Moyer, Historic Ranchos of California, 38; Christenson and Sweet, Ranchos of San Diego County, 53; Leonore Adelina Marrón Alvarado, oral history transcript, interviewed by Edgar F. Hastings, 11 February 1961, p. 2-4. San Diego History Center; San Diego County, Assessor and Recorder, Deed Book 2, page 1, Rancho San Francisco, dated 7 September 1860; San Diego County, 18th Judicial District Court, Mortgage dated 7 September 1860. 66 In 1863, Hinton held the mortgage top Rancho Agua Hedionda. A note on the 1863 assessment records indicates that he may have been assessed for Silvestre’s improvements to the property. The reason for that assessment is unclear as the 1868 assessment shows that Silvestre was assessed for his own property. San Diego County, Assessor and Recorder, Tax Assessment Records for Silvestre Marrón, 1863. San Diego History Center, Box 2, File 5; San Diego County, 18th Judicial District Court, Summons, Compliant filed against Sylvestre Marrón by Robert Kelley, 6 August 1874. San Diego History Center, Public Record Collection, District Court File #601A 67 Juan María Marrón, Will, dated 27 August 1853. Huntington Library, Manuscripts, mssHM 53655; San Diego County, 18th Judicial District Court, Answer and Cross-complaint for defendant prepared on behalf of Sylvestre Marrón by Attorneys Benjamin Hayes and W. Jeff Gatewood dated 7 October 1874. San Diego History Center, Public Record Collection, District Court File #601A; San Diego County, 18th Judicial District Court, Lis Pendens prepared on behalf of Sylvestre Marrón by Attorneys Benjamin Hayes and W. Jeff Gatewood, dated 8 October 1874. San Diego History Center, Public Record Collection, District Court File #601A. 68Benjamin Ignatius Hayes, “Diary,” (January-July 1875), Huntington Library, Couts Collection, CT 2551, 259; San Diego County, Assessor and Recorder, Deed Index, Book 24, pages 396-397, dated 27 February 1875. San Diego History Center; “The Ranchos of San Diego County,” San Diego Union, 16 February 1879. Typed article on file with San Diego History Center, vertical files, Miscellaneous Ranchos file; San Diego County, Assessor and Recorder, Deed, Robert Kelly to Silvestre Marrón, dated 27 February 1875. Private collection of Shelley Hayes Caron. 69 Moyer, Historic Ranchos of California, 38; Christenson and Sweet, Ranchos of San Diego County, 53; Alvarado, oral history transcript, p. 2-3. San Diego History Center. 70 Sweet, “The Marróns of Rancho Agua Hedionda and Old Town San Diego,” 21; San Diego County, Assessor and Recorder, Deed dated 27 February 1875. Private collection of Shelley Hayes Caron. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 12)

Silvestre Marrón’s El Salto en Buenavista and Two Early Adobes

Silvestre Marrón and María Leonora Osuna married on February 12, 1850, further solidifying the political alliances of two early and prominent San Diego families.71 Although Silvestre had increasing responsibility on the larger Rancho Agua Hedionda since 1840, he likely moved to the El Salto en Buenavista area of the rancho with his new bride sometime between 1850 and 1853. According to the tax assessment records for 1850, Silvestre Marrón did not yet pay taxes on any house near Buena Vista Creek.72 It is likely that Silvestre moved to the El Salto en Buenavista area of the rancho around September 1853, when his older brother Juan María Romualdo Marrón died and willed him El Salto en Buenavista (otherwise known as La Rinconada) for all the work he had done for his brother on the rancho.73 Located just outside the floodplain and near the water’s edge of Buena Vista Creek, the arable property provided Silvestre with a prime opportunity to practice agriculture and grazing rights for the entire Rancho Agua Hedionda (1853 to 1875).74 Silvestre lived on the El Salto en Buenavista ranch ca. 1853 until his death in 1906. Silvestre was tied to the land and the cattle industry both as a rancher and a judge of the plains whose important duty was overseeing round-ups of cattle and horses. He used the land primarily as a rancher, but he also worked as a farmer, an orchardist, and a butcher.75

As ranchers, Silvestre and Maria Leonora Osuna de Marrón made the property their primary residence. Vaqueros and laborers assisted the young ranching family. The family quickly grew, with six surviving children: Juan (1851), María de la Anunciación (1852), José (1853), Felipa (1857), Silvestre (1860), and Abraham (1864).76 In María de la Anunciación Marrón Pico’s recollection of her childhood on the ranch, she recalled that they came to present-day Marrón Canyon as the first settlers and lived amongst tall grasses in a temporary dwelling.77 Extant evidence indicates that Silvestre constructed what is now known as the Marrón-Hayes Adobe, as well as a corral, ca. 1854 near the San Luis Rey Road, and that he made improvements to it over the years.78

71Sweet, “The Marróns of Rancho Agua Hedionda and Old Town San Diego,” 1. 72 San Diego County, Assessor and Recorder, Tax Assessment Records for Silvestre Marrón, 1850. San Diego History Center. 73 Juan María Marrón, Will, dated 27 August 1853. Huntington Library, Manuscripts, mssHM 53655. 74 United States Army Corps of Engineers, “Flood Plain Information: Buena Vista Creek. Pacific Ocean to Vista San Diego County, California,” report prepared for San Diego County (1973). 75 Sweet “The Marróns of Rancho Agua Hedionda and Old Town San Diego,” 21; Alvarado, oral history transcript, p. 3. San Diego History Center; Señora Maria Anunciación Marrón Pico, daughter of Silvestre and Lenora Osuna Marrón. Señora Maria Anunciación Marrón Pico, “Childhood history of Maria Pico,” transcribed remembrance (1933), in private collection of Shelley Hayes Caron. 76 Alvarado, oral history transcript; San Diego History Center, “Families of Rancho Agua Hedionda,”genealogical tree of the Marróns, Biographical file, Silvestre Marrón; United States Census Bureau, The Eighth Census of the United States, San Diego County, San Luis Rey Township, June 28, 1860 (Washington, D.C.: United States Government Printing Office); United States Census Bureau, The Tenth Census of the United States, San Diego County, San Luis Rey Township, 1-2 June1880 (Washington, D.C.: United States Government Printing Office). 77 She remembered that their home was made of 2-ft.-thick adobe walls, wood windows, and a calfskin door. Springs supplied water that she and her brother carried in barrels to the house, and washing was done at one of the springs. According to Marrón-Hayes Adobe historian Ellen Sweet, it is unclear if she is remembering the details of this property or another one, perhaps San Dieguito. Pico, “Childhood history.” 78 Although an exact construction date is not known, several pieces of evidence indicate the extant Marrón-Hayes Adobe was constructed in 1854. That evidence includes the acquisition of the property by Silvestre from his brother in September 1853, the tax assessment records from 1854 and 1855 which indicate a house existed on the property MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 13)

From 1855 to 1861, Silvestre remained a ranchero, grazing his livestock on Rancho Agua Hedionda. He lived in his one-story house and had a corral on the ranch as well cattle, tamed and untamed horses, sheep and goats, hogs, and oxen, for an estate valued at $830. Locals identified Silvestre Marrón’s property as Buena Vistita (little Buena Vista) to distinguish it from Rancho Buena Vista. The property was also known as La Rinconada, Rinconada, Rinconada of Buena Vistita, or Buenavistita.79 Silvestre served as a Judge of the Plains in the area, and at least one rodeo was held at Buenavistita between 1855 and 1860. During that period, Deputy Sheriff Phillip Crosthwaite remembered that most of the rodeos were held at Rancho Agua Hedionda. A garden existed “down in the bottom in front of his house.”80 Although Silvestre primarily used the property for ranching, soon after the family moved to the property, they began irrigating it with nearby water. They

and improvements were made, court testimony of Philip Crosthwaite, and a newspaper article in John Chauncey Hayes’ South Oceanside Diamond dated July 6, 1888: “The family residence of the Marróns, located six miles from here, is being demolished and a new one is to take its place. The house was built in 1854 by Don Sylvester [sic] Marrón, in the old Spanish style, with tile roof and courtyard.” It is unclear what part of the building was “being demolished,” if any. Based on historic photographs from the early twentieth century, prior to the 1947 additions, the exterior end of the south wing was clad with wood planks unlike the adobe walls on all other facades—an indication that an alteration on that end of the building occurred. Scant evidence remains about the date of construction of the melted Hayes Adobe. A photograph in the San Diego History Center (#9885) associated Silvestre Marrón with the melted Hayes Adobe building on his property ca. 1861. Another photo (#O.P. 12541-37) associates John Chauncey Hayes with the construction of the building in 1875. According to Silvestre, Jr.’s daughter, the family moved to a house that Silvestre, Sr. had constructed in the early 1860s. Court testimony provided by Philip Crosthwaite stated that only one house and a corral existed on the property between 1855 and 1861. In January 1875, John Chauncey Hayes indicated that an Indian and his partner lived at the old blacksmith shop and tended to the property’s sheep, but it is not clear if that shop was on the property, nearby, or on another property. It is clear that the “melted adobe” or Hayes Adobe was added onto over time with gabled additions, which were dissimilar in roof-line style to the original adobe building. It is possible, but not confirmed, that the melted Hayes Adobe was an outbuilding that may have been constructed ca. 1861 and to which additions were made over time by the growing Hayes family. It is clear that John Chauncey Hayes was already traveling to the property in January 1875 before he married Felipa and that the Hayes family lived on the property by 1880. In 1882, Fred Hayes, who led the 1947 rehabilitation/addition, was born at the home. San Diego County, Assessor and Recorder, Tax Assessment Records for Silvestre Marrón, 1854. San Diego History Center, Box 1, File 4; San Diego County, 18th Judicial Court, Testimony, 23 November 4 December 1874; A letter from J. Chauncey Hayes to Benjamin Ignatius Hayes dated 30 January 1875, written at Buenavista. Hayes, “Diary,” 148; In a San Diego Union newspaper article date April 24, 1881, a reference was made to John Chauncey Hayes’s home that “looked like a swallow’s nest in a sheltered nook” in the “fertile green valley” near Robert Kelly’s adobe; South Oceanside Diamond, July 6, 1888; Library of Congress, Chronicling America: Historic American Newspapers, “About The diamond. (Oceanside, San Diego Co., Cal.),” available at http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn00060540/ (accessed August 10, 2014); Alvarado, oral history transcript, 5- 6. San Diego History Center. 79 San Diego County, Assessor and Recorder, Tax Assessment Records for Silvestre Marrón, 1855. San Diego History Center, Box 1, File 6; In 1855-1856, Crosthwaite had seen Silvestre’s house in Buena Vistita: “I had traveled that road very often to and by his house, the road to San Luis Rey passes in sight of his house, and going and coming to and from San Luis Rey you pass right by the mouth of the valley where he lives and you can see his house very plain.” San Diego County, 18th Judicial Court, Testimony, 23 November 4 December 1874. A federal survey of the Rancho Agua Hedionda conducted in 1858 identified geographical attributes of the Silvestre Marrón property. The surveyor also identified the Los Angeles-San Diego road at the northwest corner of the rancho as well as an east-west road to “S. Marrón’s” or Silvestre Marrón’s property. General Land Office, Plat of Rancho Agua Hedionda, John C. Hays, August 1858. 80 While Deputy Sheriff Crosthwaite was not a local rancher in the San Luis Rey area, he testified that he remembered attending one rodeo at Buenavistita. San Diego County, 18th Judicial Court, Testimony, 23 November 4 December 1874. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 14)

cultivated and managed an orchard of pears, oranges, and other fruit, and grew grapes and pomegranates. Food was largely raised on the ranch, with jerky and beans as the mainstay, along with a variety of livestock seasonally supplementing meals. Corn grown on the ranch was made into popcorn for breakfast and for hand-made corn tortillas.81 By 1860, the family had improved 20 acres of land and had a farm valued at $1,000, including farming equipment, where they raised 10 tons of hay, probably by dry farming. They had 30 horses, 15 milch cows, four working oxen, 15 other cattle, 40 sheep, and eight swine valued at $1,000.82 Since a school was not available in those early days, they had a private tutor.83

In 1868, Silvestre successfully worked his land as a cattle rancher, almost doubling its value of 13 years earlier.84 That same year Maria Leonora Marrón died. Thereafter, Silvestre married Pilar Valenzuela, and three daughters joined the family: Francisca, Rosa, and Lorenza. That same year, the property was officially patented through the U.S. government as part of Rancho Agua Hedionda.85 In January 1875, Silvestre tended to his vineyard, having plowed up the hill from El Salto waterfall and cultivated the side hills near his house with a large crop of barley. His trees, including peach trees, were bearing fruit. An Indian and his partner lived at the old blacksmith shop and tended to the property’s sheep. Approximately 50 cows were milked daily, whereby Silvestre made his own cheese.86

While the Marrón family worked the property primarily as ranchers, it is unclear when other homes were constructed for Silvestre’s four sons along present-day Marrón Canyon.87 The exact date of construction of the Hayes Adobe (also known as the melted adobe) is not currently known, but it was constructed before 1881. By 1891, there were seven structures clearly delineated on the property: four on the south side of the road (predecessor to Route 14) and three on the north side.88 The abundance of Marróns in the canyon prompted the naming of Marrón Canyon. By 1895, the family had grown significantly, as illustrated in an 1895 family photograph (Figure 3). The photograph is a

81 Pico, “Childhood History.” 82 United States Census Bureau, The Eighth Census of the United States, San Diego County, Schedule 4. Production of Agriculture, San Luis Rey Township, June 28, 1860. Typewritten index by Jo Ann Cornelius, 1995. On file at the San Diego History Center. 83 Pico, “Childhood History.” 84 San Diego County, Assessor and Recorder, Tax Assessment Records for Silvestre Marrón, 1868 and 1872. San Diego History Center. 85 Kirk Kiely, “Chain of Title for APN 167-040-31-00,” report prepared for ASM Affiliates 9 July 2014. On file with ASM Affiliates, Carlsbad; Hayes, “Diary,” 259. 86 A letter from J. Chauncey Hayes to Benjamin Ignatius Hayes dated 30 January 1875, written at Buenavista. Hayes, “Diary,” 148. 87 Tax assessment information for the nineteenth century is unavailable for Silvestre Marrón after 1872 at the San Diego History Center and the San Diego County Tax Assessor’s Office. Additional building record information is not available prior to the 1900s. San Diego Directory Company, San Diego City and County Directory 1904 (San Diego: Frye, Garrett and Smith, 1904), 728, 737; San Diego Directory Company, Dana Burks’ San Diego City and County Directory 1905 (San Diego: Frye, Garrett and Smith, 1905), 534, 655, 659; San Diego Directory Company, Dana Burks’ San Diego City and County Directory 1906 (San Diego: Frye, Garrett and Smith, 1906), 634. 88 The seven structures are shown in the United States Geological Survey, San Luis Rey 30-Minute Topographical Map, 1901. It is reported by a distant family member that in 1875, Juan María Marrón was married to Lorenza Serrano Marrón and moved to their own ranch home north of the road. Interview with John Steiger conducted by Kristi Hawthorne of the Oceanside Historical Society in 2002; San Diego Union, “Agua Hedionda Rancho Yields to Power Plant, Airport, Homes,” 17 March 1968, p. 94. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 15)

rare glimpse into some of the materials used to construct the Marrón-Hayes Adobe, including the Spanish tile roof, wood-beam rafters, and one set of windows.89 Figures 4- 11 show the Marrón-Hayes Adobe after it had been abandoned. A pond was also a part of the property, on the south side of the road near the present-day Marrón-Hayes Adobe. El Salto remained as a defining natural feature of the property and a sacred site for the San Luis Rey Band of Mission Indians (Figure 12).90 Marrón family members continued to live on various portions of the property for many years.

The ranching family was well-known in the Vista, Oceanside, and Carlsbad area. Silvestre’s oldest son, Juan, was a butcher, and both he and Silvestre bought and slaughtered cattle that they sold to people in Vista, Fallbrook, San Luis Rey, and Oceanside. Only a few families and a grocery store existed in Vista, and San Luis Rey was similar.91 Silvestre, Jr. worked his portion of the land and raised cattle, wheat, barley, and oats, and he later grew an estimated 100 acres of lima beans. The family thrashed and baled grain for their cattle or sold them. They also thrashed grain for other local families. Only a few sheep were raised for domestic purposes. The family remained influential, with Silvestre, Jr. serving as Constable and as Deputy Sheriff for the Oceanside-San Luis Rey area. A local school located within Rancho Agua Hedionda later served the children of ranch families, such as those of the Borden Ranch, as well as Silvestre Marrón, Jr., Juan Marrón, José Marrón, Abraham Marrón, William Kelly, Matthew Kelly, and Charlie Kelly. Classes were not larger than 20 students. Families would meet at each other houses for dances with large fiestas or parties with dances held at Mission San Luis Rey.92 Silvestre Marrón continued living at the Marrón-Hayes Adobe until he died on July 4, 1906.93

John Chauncey Hayes and Felipa Marrón Hayes (ca. 1875-1886)

John Chauncey Hayes married Felipa Marrón on September 12, 1875, at Mission San Luis Rey.94 At the time of their marriage, he was 22 years old and she was 18. As the son of prominent District Court Judge and historian, Benjamin I. Hayes, John Chauncey had moved with his father from his home town of Los Angeles to San Diego in 1868 at the age of 15. In Los Angeles he had attended Santa Clara College and studied law.95 One year after moving to San Diego, John Chauncey had already acquired land in Old Town,

89 Photograph taken in 1895 in private collection of Shelley Hayes Caron. 90 United States Geological Survey, San Luis Rey 30-Minute Topographical Map, 1901. The pond and waterfall remain today. Lightfoot Planning Group, “El Salto Management Plan,” report prepared for and approved by the City of Oceanside, (1 June 2010), 1. 91 Alvarado, oral history transcript, p. 3; Fisher, Ward, and Pomeroy, San Diego City and County Directory for 1899-1900 (San Diego: Baker Bros., 1899). 92Alvarado, oral history transcript, p. 6-8, 11. San Diego History Center. 93 Oceanside Blade, “Died, 7 July 1906,” p.1; San Diego Directory Company, Dana Burks’ San Diego City and County Directory 1907, 626, 747; San Diego Directory Company, San Diego City and County Direction 1910 (San Diego: Southwestern Press, 1910), 631; San Diego Directory Company, San Diego City and County Direction 1916 (San Diego: San Diego Directory Company, 1916), 1291, 1293. 94 Clarence Allen McGrew, City of San Diego and San Diego County, Volume II (Chicago: The American Historical Society, 1922), 370; John Chauncey Hayes, typewritten notes collected in oral history on 21 March 1931. San Diego History Center, Biographical file. 95 McGrew, City of San Diego and San Diego County, 370; Michael A. Normandin, “The Journey of Life: A History of Benjamin I. Hayes and His Family Between 1791 and 1871” (Unpublished thesis, University of San Diego, 1993), 117, 122, 134, 139. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 16)

under the guardianship of his father, but did not yet have a house or other personal property.96 By 1873, John Chauncey had amassed a number of lots in Old Town and had acreage in La Jolla, False Bay, and La Playa, and held 4,438 acres or one-third of Rancho Pauma. The value of land in his possession was assessed at a little less than $5,900, a significant sum for a young man at that time.97 In 1875, John Chauncey Hayes continued to amass property around the county and in Mexico.98 That same year, he had already begun representing others in real estate, including the aunt of his finance Doña Felipa Marrón for three lots of land and a few livestock that the aunt owned in Old Town.99 The couple moved to El Salto en Buenavista sometime after their marriage in September 1875 and before 1881, and they started raising their family there. They lived in an adobe 0.25 mi. west of Silvestre Marrón’s adobe, now remembered as the “melted adobe,” characterizing its state of deterioration during much of the twentieth century (Figure 13).100 By January 1887, the Hayes family had moved to a new home constructed in South Oceanside, which John Chauncey Hayes helped found and develop.101

Hayes’s real estate career started to build momentum beginning in the early 1880s. In 1883, 160 acres of the main town site of present-day Oceanside had been allotted as a homestead grant. Afterwards, Cave Couts, Jr. surveyed the land for a town site, and Hayes began selling real estate as the principle real estate agent.102 During that time, John Chauncey not only worked in real estate but he also helped the Marróns by farming and teaming.103 In 1884, Hayes acquired title to a portion of Rancho Buena Vista, Rancho Vallecitos de San Marcos, and other land.104 By at least October 1886, he had sold lots in South Oceanside.105 Two years later, the city was incorporated.106

96 San Diego County, Assessor and Recorder, Real Estate and Personal Property Record of John Chauncey Hayes dated 14 June 1869. San Diego History Center, Box 4, Folder 6. 97 San Diego County, Assessor and Recorder, Real Estate and Personal Property Record of John Chauncey Hayes, dated 10 June 1873. San Diego History Center. 98 Hayes, “Diary,” (January-July 1875), Huntington Library, Couts Collection, CT 2551111, 4-5 April 1875; 9 June 1875; 19 July 1875. 99 San Diego County, Assessor and Recorder, Real Estate and Personal Property Record of Doña Felippa (sic) Marrón dated March 25, 1873. San Diego History Center. 100 John Chauncey Hayes lived in Old Town until 1875 and his father died in 1877. As previously mentioned, a San Diego Union newspaper article dates 24 April 1881, a reference was made to John Chauncey Hayes’s home that “looked like a swallow’s nest in a sheltered nook” in the “fertile green valley” near Robert Kelly’s adobe. According to descendent Shelley Hayes Caron, the “melted adobe” was where her grandfather Fred Hayes was born in 1882. It is known as archaeological site CA-SDI-9474H. Hayes, typewritten notes collected in oral history on 21 March 1931, San Diego History Center, Biographical file; The couple had fourteen surviving children from 1876 to 1897. McGrew, City of San Diego and San Diego County, 370. 101 San Diego Union, “The San Luis Rey Valley – III,” 8 December 1886, p. 3; Huntington Library, CT 2594 Oceanside, January 1887, Elliot Lithograph. 102 Mikesell, “Historical Architectural Survey Report,” 10. 103 United States Census Bureau, The Tenth Census of the United States, San Diego County, San Luis Rey Township, June 1-2, 1880. 104 San Diego Union, “Real Estate Transactions,” 15 July 1884, p. 3; San Diego Union, ““Real Estate Transactions,” 29 July 1884, p. 3. 105 San Diego Union, “Real Estate Transactions,” 22 October, 1886, p. 3. 106 Kristi Hawthorne, Oceanside: Where Life is Worth Living (Virginia Beach: Donning Company 2000), 38. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 17)

In 1891, John Chauncey started his own newspaper, the South Oceanside Diamond.107 He had written for the San Diego Union and years earlier he had written for Santa Clara College’s newspaper, The Owl.108 In 1899, Hayes still listed his occupation as a farmer, like the Marróns. It is conceivable that he was growing his real estate business and continued working with the Marrón family until he had significantly developed the real estate venture, which he did by 1905.109 Not only was he a successful real estate agent and co-founder of Oceanside, but he became justice of peace for the San Luis Rey Township and was responsible for the “San Luis Rey Statutes,” was city recorder, served as a mail contractor, and a member of the bar in San Diego.110

The identity of the last occupants of the melted Hayes Adobe has not been confirmed, but an archeological study indicates the possibility that the adobe may have been inhabited continually or intermittently up to 1914.111 Available photographic evidence shows that the building was added to over time, probably to accommodate a growing family. By the early 1920s, the building had been deteriorating for many years (Figures 14-15). Figure 16 shows the state of its deterioration by April 1936.

The Marrón-Hayes Adobe after 1906

The Marróns continued to ranch in the area after the death of Silvestre Marrón in 1906.112 In the 1910s, various Marróns lived on portions of the property, including L. S. Marrón (approximately 121 acres), Juan Marrón (36 acres), Sara Marrón (26 acres), and Rosa Marrón (approximately 114 acres).113 Juan Marrón planted 800 acres in grain in the area.114 Records from 1912 confirm the location of the east/west-oriented L-plan extant

107 Library of Congress, Chronicling America: Historic American Newspapers, “About The diamond. (Oceanside, San Diego Co., Cal.),” available at http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn00060540/ (accessed August 10, 2014). 108 Normandin, “The Journey of Life,” 137-138. 109 Numerous real estate articles show the many transactions of land in South Oceanside, including lots sold to relatives. A representative article: San Diego Union, “Real Estate Transactions,” 18 February 1888, p. 5; Alvarado, oral history transcript, p. 6; Fisher, Ward, and Pomeroy, 1899; San Diego Directory Company, Dana Burks’ San Diego City and County Directory 1905, 534, 627, 655, 659; 110 United States Census Bureau, The Tenth Census of the United States, San Diego County, San Luis Rey Township, June 1-2, 1880; McGrew, City of San Diego and San Diego County, 370; Fisher, Ward, and Pomeroy, San Diego City and County Directory for 1899-1900, 63; San Diego Directory Company, Dana Burks’ San Diego City and County Directory 1905, 534, 627, 655, 659; San Diego Directory Company, Dana Burks’ San Diego City and County Directory 1906, 634-635; San Diego Directory Company, Dana Burks’ San Diego City and County Directory 1907, 626, 747; 111 This is based on artifacts found at that site that dated between 1880, when the Hayes family was possibly on site, and 1914. Gallegos and Associates, “Cultural Resource Testing Program for CA-SDI-5652/H and CA-SDI-9474H SR 78/Rancho Del Oro Interchange Project, Oceanside, California,” report prepared for Tetra Tech, April 2000, 5- 45. An artistic watercolor of the property was completed 18 June 1912 by Eva Scott Fényes that portrayed the adobe as being inhabited. The Hayes family had already been living in Oceanside since 1886. Pasadena Museum of History, 2836, Sylvestre Marrón Ranch House near Oceanside, 18 June 1912. 112 Oceanside Blade, “Died, 7 July 1906,” p.1.; San Diego Directory Company, Dana Burks’ San Diego City and County Directory 1907, 626, 747; San Diego Directory Company, San Diego City and County Direction 1910; San Diego Directory Company, San Diego City and County Directory 1916, 1291, 1293. 113 W. E. Alexander, Plat Book of San Diego County, California (Los Angeles: Pacific Plat Book Company, 1912), 98. San Diego History Center. 114 Oceanside Blade, “Little Events of the Week in Oceanside and Vicinity,” 10 January 1914, p. 1. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 18)

Marrón-Hayes Adobe as well as the melted Hayes Adobe nearby, with its rectangular shape and northwest orientation.115

By 1917, the Silvestre Marrón property was reduced to less than 200 acres, and it had changed hands within the Marrón family.116 By the late 1920s, the ranching Marróns were dwindling.117 Juan María died in 1924 after selling his property and purchasing a property in Otay Valley.118 Silvestre, Jr. and Abraham both died in 1928. Silvestre died in his home in Marrón Valley, and Abraham sold his property and moved his family to Oceanside where he died.119 By 1928, a large tree existed on the eastern side of the extant Marrón-Hayes Adobe and a large tree existed east of the melted Hayes Adobe. Fields north of the extant Marrón-Hayes Adobe and north of Route 14 were cultivated, but it appears that the land may have been cultivated by a nearby farm.120 During the Great Depression, the question of property ownership was taken to court and the mortgage- holding bank assumed ownership (1933-1935).121 The greater area remained largely rural. The bed of Buena Vista Creek was the defining landscape feature, with the extant Marrón-Hayes Adobe situated on the southern slope of the canyon. A large tree continued to shade the eastern side of the house, while a barn122 and livestock existed southwest of the adobe. The extant Marrón-Hayes Adobe had been abandoned by this time (see Figures 4-11), and the fields were fallow. The melted Hayes Adobe still remained west of the extant Marrón-Hayes Adobe and west of a deep ravine. East of the extant Marrón- Hayes Adobe was an active farm, and to the northwest on the north side of the road, there was another active farm.123 Abraham Lincoln Marrón lived on the property closest to El Salto. El Salto had become a local auto tourist spot where people picnicked at the 40-ft. waterfall.124 The waterfall has since been certified as a Native American sacred site.125 Otherwise the property had fallen into relative obscurity.

Several old adobes in San Diego County were under restoration in the 1930s and 1940s, indicative of a statewide movement to reclaim its adobe heritage through preservation. Among these ranches were the Buena Vista Ranch House in Vista, the San Dieguito Ranch House, and Rancho Los Quiotes.126 In 1947, Fred Hayes, the son and business partner of John Chauncey Hayes, embarked on a project of restoring and adding to the

115 California Highway Commission, “1912 California Highway Plan for Route 14, Sheet 3.” San Diego County, Department of Public Works, Land Division, Cartography Department. 116 Kiely,” Chain of Title.” 117 San Diego Directory Company, San Diego City and County Directory 1927 (San Diego: Frye and Smith, 1927), 1393, 1395; San Diego Directory Company, San Diego City and County Direction 1930 (San Diego: Frye and Smith, 1930). 118 Oceanside Blade, “Items of the Town.” 22 May 1924, p. 2. 119 Oceanside Blade, “Pioneers Are Passing Away: Death Rapidly Thinning the Ranks of Early Residents of Oceanside Section: A.L. Marrón,” 26 June 1928, p. 1. 120 United States Department of Agriculture, aerial, 1928. 121 Kiely, “Chain of Title.” 122 In 1909, a large barn was constructed on the Marrón property for storing hay and grain. Oceanside Blade, “Local News of the Week.” 18 September 1909, p. 1. 123 United States Department of Agriculture, Aerial, 1938. 124 San Diego Union, “Privately Owned Waterfall, with Leap of 40 Feet, Is One of the Handiest to Be Seen in San Diego County,” 5 January 1938, p. 4. 125 Lightfoot Planning Group, “El Salto Management Plan,” 1. 126 Mikesell, “Historical Architectural Survey Report,” 12. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 19)

extant Marrón-Hayes Adobe (Figures 17-18).127 By then, the property no longer had an agricultural use. The adobe had no windows or doors and was exposed to the elements. Fred Hayes led the renovation and worked with his son Berry Hayes to restore and add to the adobe.128A barn still existed southeast of the main house, as did another structure to its west. The ranch to the east was still operational. Land south of Buena Vista Creek remained untouched and undeveloped.129 Between 1947 and 1953, the width of the creek bed had diminished. Aerials taken in 1953 and 1954 show the close proximity of the adobe to Highway 78 and the disconnected Route 14 as well as roads across the southern portion of the property. The ranch house and its secondary structures show that the property was reinvigorated as an agricultural complex, complete with a livestock pen. A ranch to the east still existed.130 The property was finally deeded from the mortgage- holding bank to Jemmie B. Hayes in 1955. In 1957, Berry M. Hayes acquired the property from Jemmie’s estate.131 It is clear that in the early 1960s the ranch remained as an agricultural enclave nestled next to Highway 78, surrounded by vast acreage to the south that was as yet untouched by development.132 A quarry opened up between 1953 and 1964 where Abraham Lincoln Marrón had farmed.133 In 1973, the family sold the quarry area to South Coast Asphalt.134 Despite the changing environment and the fact that many adobes around San Diego had already become ruins, the extant Marrón-Hayes Adobe remained.135 In 1971, Berry Hayes’s daughter Shelley Hayes Caron inherited the property, which at the time was less than 42 acres. Thereafter, parts of the property were sold to Joseph Sherman. Presently the extant Marrón-Hayes Adobe is located at APN 167-040-31, which is approximately 3 acres.136

1. The extant Marrón-Hayes Adobe was originally constructed ca. 1854 as an L-plan adobe building. In 1947, two additions on the north and west side of the 1850s adobe were added onto the property, creating a nearly square floor plan with a central courtyard. The building has not been altered since 1947. This adobe is part of a district that retains 4 acres of landscape and the archaeological ruins of another adobe building to the southwest, plus archaeological site CA-SDI-5652/Loci A and B.

127 The water tower shown in the 1949 oblique still existed in 1963, but has since been removed. 128 Fred Hayes, a letter typed to Pauline from Fred Hayes dated 11 May 1943. In the private collection of Shelley Hayes Caron. 129 United States Department of Agriculture, Aerial, 1938; Photograph taken in 1947 in private collection of Shelley Hayes Caron. 130 A 1952 family photograph in private collection of Shelley Hayes Caron. An aerial photograph taken in 1954 was made available to ASM Affiliates by Shelley Hayes Caron. 131 Kiely, “Chain of Title.” 132 An aerial photograph taken in 1961 and 1963 was made available to ASM Affiliates by Shelley Hayes Caron. 133 United States Department of Agriculture, aerial, 1953, 1964. 134 Information provided by Shelley Hayes Caron, present owner. 135 Philip S. Rush, Some Old Adobes (San Diego, Neyenesch Printers, 1965). 136 Kiely, “Chain of Title.” MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 20)

2. The overall condition of the building is excellent. There is evidence of foundation settling in the porch posts and beams, which are no longer aligned properly. However, the building’s structure and materials are in excellent condition.

1. The building is one story, with one L-plan section (the original adobe) and two rectangular sections that form a disjointed second L-plan section (the 1947 additions). The original adobe section is located on the south and east sides of the house. The 1947 additions consist of a north addition building and the west addition that was constructed onto the original adobe. Together, these sections form a square with a central courtyard and an open patio at the northwest corner of the house, as well as an open patio at the front or northeast corner of the house. The overall dimensions of the building are 87 ft. wide and 107 ft. long. The original L- plan adobe section consists of five bays on the south facade, and four bays on the east facade. The 1947 north addition has three bays, and the west addition has three bays.

2. The foundation material is unknown.

3. The walls of the original adobe section of the building are constructed of adobe bricks and covered with stucco. The 1947 section of the house is constructed of stabilized adobe brick covered in stucco.

4. The structural frame of the original L-plan adobe building is made of wood and stabilized adobe brick. The wood material can be seen from the corredor. The wood in the exterior corredor/porch ceiling and posts is redwood.

5. Along the exterior of the original adobe section there is a corredor that extends along the south and east facades. This large porch is supported by wood posts with tongue-in-groove beams. There is also an open patio space on the northwest corner of the building and an open central courtyard.

6. Stairways/staircases: There are two staircases to note on the property. One is the staircase leading to the root cellar to the east of the house. The other staircase is made of quartz and is located southeast of the residence. It was built by Fred Hayes in 1947.

7. There are five chimneys within the building. Three are located in the original adobe section, one is located in the 1947 west addition, and the fifth is located within the central courtyard and connects to the only exterior fireplace.

a. The house has 11 doors (all dating to 1947) that lead to the exterior of the house and two exterior doors that lead to the central courtyard. The doors on the exterior of the house are all wood doors with glazing and metal security doors, except for the large metal sliding glass doors on the 1947 north addition that MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 21)

do not have metal security doors. The four doors located on the original adobe section are single wood doors with glazing and lead to four bedrooms in the original adobe. The 1947 west addition of the house has a single wood door located within the corredor on the south facade which leads to the living room. There is another door opening that consists of wood double doors that lead to the dining room from the central courtyard. There is also a single door located on the north side of the west addition that leads to the kitchen from the northwest patio. The 1947 north addition has three single wood doors, two of which are accessed from the open patio and one from the central courtyard. There is also a large sliding glass door that spans the width of the east side of the north addition. All of the doors on the house have decorative wood lintels. The main gate that opens from the northeast patio to the central courtyard is made of wood and has double doors with large metal hinges and hardware. There is also a small gate that can be accessed from the northwest patio to the central courtyard and connects the 1947 west and north additions. Both of these gates are connected on winged walls that have red tile coping.

There are 21 windows on the building, dating to 1947. All of the windows have decorative dark wood lintels and projecting sills. All are recessed from the exterior wall plane, both on the original adobe and on the 1947 additions. The original adobe section has 11 windows that correspond to each room within its section. There is at least one window for each room in this section of the house, and most are composed of two-over-two double hung wood sash windows. There is also a large fixed window that faces the northeast patio. On the west addition, there are three large fixed-pane glass picture windows that showcase the landscape from the living room and dining room. These windows are approximately 9 ft. wide and are nearly full height. Also on the west addition are two flanking windows that access the kitchen interior and two windows that are in the bathroom and overlook the central courtyard. In the north addition are three windows on the north facade.

The roof is a front- and side-gabled roof with a wide pitch, covered in red clay tiles.

There is no cornice. The eaves have about a 2-ft. overhang and are supported by knee braces and purlins. Beneath the eaves are exposed rafter tails.

1. The Marrón-Hayes Adobe is roughly square in plan, composed of a connected single-story U-plan that includes the original L-plan section (south and east sections) and with an attached 1947 addition (west section) that together create the U-plan; the detached building at the top (north section) completes the square floor plan. The original L-plan section consists of six rooms: five bedrooms and one bathroom, the latter of which is located at the corner of the “L.” All of the rooms can be accessed from the interior, and four of the rooms have access to the exterior. The west consists of two rooms: a large dining and living room area and a kitchen. Also constructed with this addition was a bathroom that projects out into the central courtyard area. The northwest patio is located between the west and north addition. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 22)

The north addition is a detached building, connected to the L-shape adobe building by two wing walls and gates. The north addition contains two small rooms used for laundry and pantry, and a third large multi-purpose room.

2. There are no interior or exterior stairways.

3. The flooring in the original adobe section of the building consists of oak boards with mahogany pegs, plus one room with mahogany floors with mahogany pegs. The flooring in the 1947 addition is pegged mahogany.

The interior walls on both the original adobe and the 1947 additions are plaster. The ceilings in the original adobe consist of exposed redwood beams and planks, and the ceilings in the 1947 additions are made of exposed fir beams and planks. A few rooms have plaster ceilings.

The interior doors are made of single flush wood doors with no decorative elements. The only door that has been removed from its hinges is the door from the kitchen to the living room in the west addition.

The windows are composed of either two-over-two double-hung wood sash windows or large fixed glass windows. All of the windows have wood frames, except for the two large metal-framed windows that are part of the sliding glass door system on the east elevation of the north addition.

The woodwork on the interior of the house is original. There are no closets in the house except for in the two bathrooms, which have built-in closets that are lined in cedar. They were installed in 1947.

The hardware on the doors and windows, including hinges, brackets, and locks, was all installed in 1947.

In the original adobe building, three of the six rooms have interior fireplaces. There is also a fireplace in the west addition of the house. Wall heaters were installed in the bathrooms in 1947. There is no internal air conditioning/ventilation installed in the house. However, every interior room has a window and/or a door to the exterior that can be opened for ventilation.

Electricity was installed in the house in 1947. All of the rooms in the original adobe were updated to electrical light switches.

All plumbing was installed in 1947. A bathroom was installed in the original adobe in 1947, and the shower, sink, and vanity date to 1947. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 23)

The doorbell was installed in 1947 when the two additions were constructed. Outside of every door on the original adobe building is a button for the doorbell. Although it currently disabled, it is still in working order.

1. The Marrón-Hayes Adobe’s landscape is an important part of the site design. The original Rancho Agua Hedionda totaled more than 13,000 acres. Today only 4 acres remain. Immediate landscape features include the 1947 central courtyard, which consists of red square tile flooring and an exterior fireplace. The northeast patio is located at the front entrance of the house and consists of a flush concrete patio and a main gate that opens into the courtyard. The northwest patio is a small square brick patio that opens to the kitchen on the west addition. In the corner of this patio is a large pepper tree that sits diagonally from the pepper tree on the southeast of the original L-plan adobe section of the house. A large stucco wall with a wood gate encloses the property on the north and east. The wall is partially covered with bougainvillea. The current homeowner planted three palm trees adjacent to the north wall. Surrounding the adobe building is a gradually sloped terrain having terrace garden stonework that was built by Fred Hayes in 1947. From the veranda of the original adobe section of the building is a south-facing viewshed that overlooks Buena Vista Creek and hilltops that have been developed with residences. The Regional Wildlife Corridor and the Buena Vista Creek Ecological Preserve are within this viewshed to the south. Among the landscape elements are eucalyptus trees, pepper trees, and a variety of other vegetation. To the north is Highway 78. To the east is a shopping center and quarry. To the west is open land with modern residential neighborhoods and commercial areas. A 2009 report stated that the property has the oldest known pepper tree in Carlsbad. The pepper tree was also a place of family importance. Luiseño elder and granddaughter of Librada Lorenza Garcia, Louise Munoa Foussat, identified it as the birthplace of her grandmother.137

2. The property used to include a well house and a barn located to the southwest of the adobe. Both are no longer extant. There is also a cellar building that was constructed with the original adobe building. It is located to the east of the house and is accessed by concrete steps that lead to a subsurface reinforced adobe cellar with a door and a window. Vegetation obscures the cellar from the main road.

The melted adobe is no longer extant, but was located to the west of the Marrón-Hayes Adobe. It was originally a square adobe brick building with two gable roof sections and one hip roof extending to meet the wide attached porch. A 1965 description of the property notes it as being “almost entirely in ruins.” A few remnants of the foundation are all that remain today, and have since been covered with vegetation. The pepper tree identified as the oldest in Carlsbad and was on the property when the building was standing died recently.

There is a plaque on a boulder outside the walls of the property that was given to the adobe property in 2000 by the Native Daughters of the Golden West.

137 A great-grandchild of Louise Munoa Foussat, Diania Caudell, wrote an article about the importance of the tree for her family. Diania Caudell, “Born Under a Pepper Tree,” Indian Voices February/March 2004, p. 4. Wisniewski & Associates, “Carlsbad Heritage Tree Study, Phase II Report.” A report prepared for the City of Carlsbad, 2009, 8. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 24)

Architectural drawings: None.

Early Views: See Figures 3-18.

Interviews: Shelley Hayes Caron on June 10, 2014, and subsequent phone calls.

Selected Sources

1. Primary Sources:

Alexander, W. E. Plat Book of San Diego County, California. Los Angeles: Pacific Plat Book Company, 1912. On file at the San Diego History Center.

Alvarado, Leonore Adelina Marrón. Oral history transcript. Interviewed by Edgar F. Hastings, 11 February 1961.

California Highway Commission. “1912 California Highway Plan for Route 14, Sheet 3.” On file at the San Diego County, Department of Public Works, Land Division, Cartography Department.

California Surveyor General. Biennial Report of the Surveyor General of State of California from December 4, 1871 to August 1, 1873. Sacramento: T.A. Springer, 1873.

Caron, Shelley Hayes. Family photograph taken in 1895. In private collection. ______. Photograph taken in 1947. ______. A family photograph taken in 1952. ______. An aerial photograph taken in 1954. The aerial was made available to ASM Affiliates by Shelley Hayes Caron. ______. An aerial photograph taken in 1961. The aerial was made available to ASM Affiliates by Shelley Hayes Caron. ______. An aerial photograph taken in 1963. The aerial was made available to ASM Affiliates by Shelley Hayes Caron.

Caudell, Diania. “Born Under a Pepper Tree.” Indian Voices February/March 2004.

Fisher, George. “Map of ranchos surrounding the San Luis Rey Mission: San Diego County, Calif.” 30 December 1853. South District Court, California, Southern District, Land case 339 SD, page 240; land case map D-1386A, University of California, Berkeley, Bancroft Library.

Fisher, Ward, and Pomeroy. San Diego City and County Directory for 1899-1900. San Diego: Baker Bros., 1899.

General Land Office, Plat of Rancho Agua Hedionda, John C. Hays, August 1858.

Hayes, Benjamin Ignatius. “Diary.” Huntington Library, CT 2551, Couts Collection.

MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 25)

Hayes, Fred. A Letter typed to Pauline from Fred Hayes dated 11 May 1943. In private collection of Shelley Hayes Caron.

Hayes, John Chauncey. Typewritten notes collected in oral history on 21 March 1931. San Diego History Center, Biographical file.

Huntington Library, CT 2594 Oceanside, January 1887, Elliot Lithograph.

Kiely, Kirk. “Chain of Title for APN 167-040-31-00.” Report prepared for ASM Affiliates. 9 July 2014. On file with ASM Affiliates, Carlsbad.

Library of Congress, Chronicling America: Historic American Newspapers, “About The diamond. (Oceanside, San Diego Co., Cal.).” Available at http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn00060540/. Accessed August 10, 2014.

Lightfoot Planning Group. “El Salto Management Plan.” Report prepared for and approved by the City of Oceanside. 1 June 2010.

Marrón, Juan María. Will. 27 August 1853. Huntington Library, Manuscripts, mssHM 53655.

Pasadena Museum of History. 2836, Watercolor of Silvestre Marrón Ranch House Near Oceanside. Eva Scott Fényes. 18 June 1912.

Oceanside Blade, “Died, 7 July 1906,” p.1. ______. “Local News of the Week.” 18 September 1909, p. 1. ______. “Little Events of the Week in Oceanside and Vicinity.” 10 January 1914, p. 1. ______. “Items of the Town.” 22 May 1924, p. 2. ______. “Pioneers Are Passing Away: Death Rapidly Thinning the Ranks of Early Residents of Oceanside Section: A.L. Marrón,” 26 June 1928, p. 1.

Perez, Cris “Grants of Land in California Made By the Spanish or Mexican Authorities,” Report prepared by the Staff of the State Lands Commission, August 23, 1982, 3, available at http://www.slc.ca.gov/reports/grants_of_land/part_1.pdf (accessed December 4, 2014).

Pico, Señora Maria Anunciación Marrón. “Childhood history of Maria Pico.” Transcribed remembrance (1933). In private collection of Shelley Hayes Caron.

San Diego County, Assessor and Recorder. Tax Assessment Records for Silvestre Marrón, 1850. San Diego History Center. ______. Tax Assessment Records for Silvestre Marrón, 1854. San Diego History Center, Box 1, File 4. ______. Tax Assessment Records for Juan Maria Romualdo Marrón, 1855. San Diego History Center, Box 1, File 6. ______. Tax Assessment Records for Silvestre Marrón, 1855. San Diego History Center, Box 1, File 6. ______. Deed Book 2, page 1. Rancho San Francisco, dated 7 September 1860. San Diego History Center. ______. Tax Assessment Records for Silvestre Marrón, 1863. San Diego History Center, Box 2, File 5. ______. Tax Assessment Records for Silvestre Marrón, 1868. San Diego History Center, Box 4, File 2. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 26)

______. Real Estate and Personal Property Record of John Chauncey Hayes dated 14 June 1869. San Diego History Center, Box 4, Folder 6. ______. Tax Assessment Records for Silvestre Marrón, 1872. San Diego History Center. ______. Real Estate and Personal Property Record of Doña Felippa (sic) Marrón. 25 March 1873. San Diego History Center. _____. Real Estate and Personal Property Record of John Chauncey Hayes. 10 June 1873. San Diego History Center. ______. Deed Index, Book 24, pages 396-397, dated 27 February 1875. San Diego History Center. ______. Deed, Robert Kelly to Silvestre Silvestre Marrón, dated 27 February 1875. Private collection of Shelley Hayes Caron. San Diego County, 18th Judicial District Court. Mortgage. Prepared by Philip Crosthwaite and Joseph S. Mannasse and signed by Felipe de Marrón, Luz Marrón, Jesus Marrón, José Marrón, and José María Estudillo, dated 7 September 1860. Exhibit A.S.G. No. 4. San Diego History Center, Public Record Collection, District Court File #601A. ______. Summons, Compliant filed against Sylvestre Marrón by Robert Kelley, 6 August 1874. San Diego History Center, Public Record Collection, District Court File #601A. ______. Answer and Cross-complaint for defendant prepared on behalf of Sylvestre Marrón by Attorneys Benjamin Hayes and W. Jeff Gatewood dated 7 October 1874. San Diego History Center, Public Record Collection, District Court File #601A. ______. Lis Pendens prepared on behalf of Sylvestre Marrón by Attorneys Benjamin Hayes and W. Jeff Gatewood dated 8 October 1874. San Diego History Center, Public Record Collection, District Court File #601A. ______. Testimony of Philip Crosthwaite, 23 November-4 December 1874. San Diego History Center, Public Record Collection, District Court File #601A.

San Diego Directory Company, San Diego City and County Directory 1904. San Diego: Frye, Garrett and Smith, 1904. ______. Dana Burks’ San Diego City and County Directory 1905. San Diego: Frye, Garrett and Smith, 1905. ______. Dana Burks’ San Diego City and County Directory 1906. San Diego: Frye, Garrett and Smith, 1906. ______. San Diego City and County Directory 1910. San Diego: Southwestern Press, 1910. ______. San Diego City and County Directory 1916. San Diego: San Diego Directory Company, 1916. ______. San Diego City and County Directory 1927. San Diego: Frye and Smith, 1927. ______. San Diego City and County Direction 1930. San Diego: Frye and Smith, 1930.

San Diego History Center. “Families of Rancho Agua Hedionda.” Genealogical tree of the Marróns, n.d.. Biographical file, Silvestre Marrón. ______. “Old Rancho Names Live as Symbols of Romance, Music.” Newspaper clipping, San Diego History Center, n.d., Vertical files, Miscellaneous Ranchos folder.

San Diego Union. “The Ranchos of San Diego County.” 16 February 1879. Typed article on file with San Diego History Center, vertical files, Miscellaneous Ranchos file. ______. “Real Estate Transactions.” 15 July 1884, p. 3. ______. “Real Estate Transactions,” 29 July 1884, p. 3. ______. “Real Estate Transactions,” 22 October 1886, p. 3. ______. “The San Luis Rey Valley – III,” 8 December 1886, p. 3. ______. “Real Estate Transactions,” 18 February 1888, p. 5. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 27)

______. “Privately Owned Waterfall, With Leap of 40 Feet, Is One of the Handiest To Be Seen in San Diego County,” 5 January 1938, p. 4. ______. “Agua Hedionda Rancho Yields to Power Plant, Airport, Homes.” 17 March 1968, p. 94.

Savage, Thomas. “Felipa Osuna: ‘The Oldest Resident of Old Town in 1878.’” Translated and edited by Rose Marie Beebe and Robert Senkewicz. The Journal of San Diego History 55, no. 4 (Fall 2009).

South Oceanside Diamond, July 6, 1888.

Starr, Kevin. California: A History (New York: Modern Library, 2005). Steiger, John. Interview conducted by Kristi Hawthorne of the Oceanside Historical Society in 2002.

United States Census Bureau. The Eighth Census of the United States, San Diego County, San Luis Rey Township, June 28, 1860. Washington, D.C.: United States Government Printing Office. ______. The Eighth Census of the United States, San Diego County. Schedule 4. Production of Agriculture, San Luis Rey Township, June 28, 1860. Typewritten index by Jo Ann Cornelius, 1995. San Diego History Center ______. The Tenth Census of the United States, San Diego County, San Luis Rey Township, June 1-2,1880 (Washington, D.C.: United States Government Printing Office). ______. The Sixteenth Census of the United States. San Diego County, Washington, D.C.: United States Government Printing Office, 1940.

United States Department of Agriculture. Aerial. 1928. ______. Aerial. 1938. ______. Aerial. 1953. ______. Aerial. 1964.

United States Geological Survey. San Luis Rey 30-Minute Topographical Map. 1901.

2. Secondary Sources:

Bancroft, Hubert Howe. The Works of Hubert Howe Bancroft, Volume XXI, History of California, Volume IV, 1840-1845. San Francisco: A. L. Bancroft and Company, 1886.

Burcham, L.T. California Range Land: An Historico-Ecological Study of the Range Resources of California. Sacramento: Division of Forestry, Department of Natural Resources, 1957.

California State Parks. “The Old Town at San Diego.” Available at http://www.150.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=27600. Accessed 9 August 2014.

Christenson, Lynne Newell and Ellen L. Sweet. Ranchos of San Diego County. Charleston: Arcadia Publishing, 2008.

Cleland, Robert Glass. The Cattle on a Thousand Hills: Southern California, 1850-1880. San Marino: Huntington Library, San Marino, 1941. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 28)

Crawford, Richard. “San Diego County’s Rancho Heritage.” California Chronical (Fall 1992): 6-7. On file at the San Diego History Center, vertical files, Miscellaneous Ranchos folder.

Davidson, John. “Padres’ Trial Abandoned in Building of New Santa Margarita Road.” San Diego Union. 25 February 1938.

Engelhardt, Fr. Zephyrin. San Diego Mission. San Francisco: The James H. Barry Company, 1920. ______. San Luis Rey Mission. San Francisco: The James H. Barry Company, 1921. ______. San Juan Capistrano Mission. Los Angeles: Standard Printing, 1922.

Engstrand, Iris H.W. and Mary F. Ward. “Rancho Guajome: An Architectural Legacy Preserved.” The Journal of San Diego History 41, no. 4 (Fall 1995).

Gallegos and Associates. “Cultural Resource Testing Program for CA-SDI-5652/H and CA- SDI-9474H SR 78/Rancho Del Oro Interchange Project, Oceanside, California.” Report prepared for Tetra Tech, Inc., April 2000.

Garcia, Mario T. “Merchants and Dons San Diego’s Attempt at Modernization, 1850-1860.” Journal of San Diego History 21, no. 1 (1975).

Gates, Paul. “Adjudication of Spanish-Mexican Land Claims in California.” Huntington Library Quarterly 21, no. 3 (1958).

Gentilcore, R. Louis. “Missions and Mission Lands in Alta California.” Annals of the Association of American Geographers 51, no. 1 (1961).

Gray, Paul Bryan. Forster vs. Pico: The Struggle for the Rancho Santa Margarita (Spokane: Arthur H. Clarke, 2002).

Hawthorne, Kristi. Oceanside: Where Life is Worth Living. Virginia Beach: The Donning Company Publishers, 2000.

Jackson, Robert H. and Edward Castillo. Indians, Franciscans, and Spanish Colonization: The Impact of the Mission System on California Indians. Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press, 1995.

McGrew, Clarence Allen. City of San Diego and San Diego County, Volume II. Chicago: The American Historical Society, 1922.

Mikesell, Stephen D. “Historical Architectural Survey Report, Rancho Del Oro/SR 78 Interchange Project. Attachment 3.” Report prepared for Gallegos and Associates. February 2000, 6.

Moyer, Cecil Historic Ranchos of California. San Diego: Union-Tribune Publishing, 1969.

MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 29)

Normandin, Michael A. “The Journey of Life: A History of Benjamin I. Hayes and His Family Between 1791 and 1871.” Unpublished thesis, University of San Diego, 1993.

Perez, Cris. “Grants of Land in California Made By the Spanish or Mexican Authorities.” The State Lands Commission, 23 August 1982. Available at heep://www.slc.ca.gov/reports/grants_of_land/part_1.pdf. Accessed 24 July 2014.

Pourade, Richard F. The Glory Years. Union-Tribune Publishing, San Diego, 1964.

Robinson, W. W. Land in California. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1948.

Rush, Philip S. Some Old Adobes. San Diego: Neyenesch Printers, 1965.

Salomon, Carlos Manuel. Pio Pico: The Last Governor of Mexican California. Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 2010.

Sweet, Ellen L. “The Marrón’s of Rancho Agua Hedionda and Old Town San Diego.” Paper given at the 36th Annual Institute of History (June 2004).

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Wisniewski & Associates. “Carlsbad Heritage Tree Study, Phase II Report.” A report prepared for the City of Carlsbad, 2009.

Likely Sources Not Yet Investigated: No additional essential sources for information are known.

Supplemental Material: Historic photos and a hand-drawn sketch of the floorplan (not to scale) follow.

MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 30)

Additional Photographs

Figure 1. USGS map with boundaries of the property overlaid. MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 31)

Figure 2. Photo of the Marrón Family in 1895. (Courtesy of Shelley Hayes Caron, private collection.)

MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 32)

Figure 3. The Marrón-Hayes Adobe, Rancho Agua Hedionda, view looking south at the east section of the building, 1930s. (Courtesy of the San Diego History Center, #9428.)

MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 33)

Figure 4. The Marrón-Hayes Adobe, view looking southwest at the east and south sections of the building, late 1920s or early 1930s. (Courtesy of the San Diego History Center, #OP 17134-2449.) MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 34)

Figure 5. The Marrón-Hayes Adobe corredor looking north along east facade in 1936. (Courtesy of the San Diego History Center, #OP 12541-61.)

MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 35)

Figure 6. El Salto waterfall located to the east of the Marrón-Hayes Adobe. (Courtesy of Shelley Hayes Caron, private collection.)

MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 36)

Figure 7. The Hayes Adobe (melted adobe) at Rancho Agua Hedionda, no date. (Courtesy of the San Diego History Center, #OP 17134-2453.)

MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 37)

Figure 8. The Hayes Adobe and John Chauncey, Berry, and Benjamin Hayes circa 1921. (Courtesy of Shelley Hayes Caron, private collection.) MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 38)

Figure 9. The Hayes Adobe in ruins in April 1936. (Courtesy of the San Diego History Center, #99_19925-3.)

MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 39)

Figure 10. The Marrón-Hayes Adobe during the 1947 renovation, view toward the southeast. (Courtesy of Shelley Hayes Caron, private collection.)

MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 40)

Figure 11. Oblique aerial view of the Marrón-Hayes Adobe in 1949, view toward the southeast. (Courtesy of Shelley Hayes Caron, private collection.)

MARRÓN-HAYES ADOBES HISTORIC DISTRICT HABS NO. CA-2900 (Page 41)

Figure 12. Hand drawn sketch plan of the Marrón-Hayes Adobe in 2014, Drawn by Jennifer Gorman, ASM Affiliates