Tanja Berlin Berlin Designs 1481 Hunterbrook Road NW Calgary, Alberta T2K 4V4, Canada Tel: (403) 274 6293 Website: www.berlinembroidery.com Email: [email protected]

Blackwork Etui Box Blackwork Technique

Tanja Berlin (Berlin Embroidery Designs) 1481 Hunterbrook Road NW Calgary, Alberta T2K 4V4 Canada Tel (403) 274 6293 Website: www.berlinembroidery.com Email: [email protected]

BLACKWORK ETUI BOX

MATERIALS REQUIRED

Counted Fabric: Any brand of counted fabric that is either 16 threads to the inch or 32 threads to the inch, this will ensure that the finished pattern fits the sides of the box panels. You will require a strip of fabric 16 inches (40 cm) long and 52 inches (130 cm) to cover panels A, C, G, H and I, which are worked in the blackwork patterns. There is approximately 1 ½ inches or 4 cm of seam allowance all away around each panel, which will be used to glue the fabric to the box panel. There should be a small strip of fabric remaining which can be used to make the blackwork ribbons to go across the width of panels B. Plain Fabric: You will require plain or patterned fabric to cover panels B, D, E, F, and J. DMC Embroidery Floss: Cross-stitch borders: Green DMC No. 3362. Blackwork patterns: Light green DMC No. 3347, blue DMC No. 931 and brown DMC No. 433. Needles: A No. 24 Tapestry needle when working on 16 count fabric and a No. 28 tapestry needle when working on 32 count fabric. Extra Strong Tacky Glue: Aleene’s original tacky glue or PVA, for constructing the box. , Dress Making Pins, Needle and Sewing Thread, Weights And Heavy Books: As aides for constructing the box. Batting (wadding) to pad sides of panels for box. Thick cardboard (8 ply), thin cardboard (4 ply) and fabric (measurements given below).

THICK CARD REQUIRED (8 ply):

Panels A: 4 pieces of thick card 4 inch square (10 cm square). Fabric - 4 pieces of fabric 7 inch square (18 cm square). Panels D: 4 pieces of thick card 3 1/8 inch by 2 inch, (8 cm by 5 cm). Fabric – 4 pieces of fabric 6 inch by 5 inch, (16 cm by 13 cm). Panel E: 1 piece of thick card 3 7/8 inch square, (9 ¾ cm square). Fabric - 1 piece of fabric 7 inch square (17 ¾ cm square). Panel G: 1 piece of thick card 2 inch square, (5 cm square). Fabric - 1 piece of fabric 5 inch square (13 cm square). Panel H: 1 piece of thick card 4 1/8 inch square, (10 ½ cm square). Fabric - 1 piece of fabric 7 ½ inch square (18 ½ cm square). Panels I: 4 pieces of thick card 4 1/16 inch long by ¾ inch wide, (10 ¼ cm long by 2 cm wide). Fabric – 4 pieces of fabric 5 ½ inch long by 3 ¼ inch wide, (14 cm long by 9 cm wide).

THIN CARD REQUIRED (4 ply):

Panels B: 4 pieces of thin card 4 ½ inch by 3 5/8 inch, (11 ½ cm by 9 ¼ cm). Fabric – 4 pieces of fabric 7 ¾ inch by 7 inch, (19 ½ cm by 17 ¼ cm). Panels C: 4 pieces of thin card 2 7/8 inches by 1 13/16 inch, (7 ¼ cm by 4 ¾ cm). Fabric – 4 pieces of fabric 6 ½ inch by 5 inch, (16 ¼ cm by 12 ¾ cm). Panel F: 1 piece of thin card 3 1/2 inch square, (8 ¾ cm square). Fabric – 1 piece of fabric 6 ¾ inch square (16 ¾ cm square). Panel J: 1 piece of thin card 3 ½ inch square, (9 cm square). Fabric – 1 piece of fabric 6 ¾ inch square (17 cm square).

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 1 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

WORKING THE EMBROIDERY

You can cut out the individual pieces of fabric for each panel and work them in the hand or you can cut the fabric into sections and frame up the sections to work the blackwork panels in the frame. If you work the blackwork in the frame you should work a tacking line outline of each panel on the fabric so that you know where to do the different size blackwork panels. The tacking lines are removed at the end of the embroidery. The cross-stitch and blackwork patterns are worked over one thread of the fabric on 16 count fabric and over two threads of the fabric on 32 count fabric. The chart for the outside panels and lid of the box on pages 5, 7, 9, 11 and 13 are graphed over one thread of the fabric for working on 16 count fabric. If you are working on a 32 count fabric then for every stitch worked over one thread of the fabric on the chart you work the stitch over two threads of the fabric. The step-by-step diagrams on pages 6, 8, 10, 12 and 14 are charted over two threads of the fabric as it is easier to read the numbering of the stitches. If you are working on 16 count fabric make sure that you work the stitches over one thread of the fabric.

CROSS-STITCH BORDERS

The borders of the knot garden are worked first in cross-stitch. Refer to page 1 for the required fabric size for the panels of the box. The cross-stitch is worked over one thread of the fabric on 16 count fabric or over two threads of the fabric on 32 count fabric, using two strands of DMC embroidery floss. It is best to start the cross-stitch near the center of the pattern to ensure that the pattern fits squarely on the fabric. Find the center of the pattern and then count out to the nearest row of cross- stitch. When beginning and ending new threads do not use knots on the back of the work. Knots can make the work lumpy and may become loose over time. To start a new thread, tie a knot in the end of the thread and then take the needle down through the fabric about one inch away from where the row of cross-stitch will lay (this is called an away knot, see diagram 2a. below). Work the cross-stitch up to the knot catching in the starting thread in the stitches at the back of the work. When you reach the knot you can cut the knot off

STARTING A THREAD: Worked over Two Threads of The Fabric on 32 Count Fabric

2a. STARTING A THREAD METHOD #2 AND FINISHING A THREAD

If there are already stitches worked, then start the thread by weaving back and forth through the stitches on the back of the work, use this same method for finishing of threads (see diagram 2b. opposite).

2b.

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 2 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

CROSS-STITCH BORDERS

Refer to pages to 5, 7, 9, 11 and 13 for the patterns to work the cross-stitch borders (hedges) on the outside panels and lid of the box. The cross-stitch is worked over one thread of the fabric on 16 count fabric (see diagrams 3a. and 3b. below) and over two threads of the fabric on 32 count fabric (see diagrams 3c. and 3d. below). First a diagonal stitch is worked from 1 to 2 and then a second diagonal stitch is worked over top from 3 to 4. It is okay to work the diagonal stitches in the opposite order than in the diagrams below as long as the top diagonal stitch is always in the same direction.

Cross-stitch on 16 count fabric – Cross-stitch on 32 count fabric – worked over one thread of the fabric worked over two threads of the fabric

3a. 3b. 3c. 3d.

You may find it quicker and get neater results to work the cross-stitch in the following method: The first stage is to work a row of half cross-stitch – the bottom diagonal of the cross-stitch (see diagrams 3e. and 3f. below).

Half cross-stitch on 16 count fabric – Half cross-stitch on 32 count fabric – worked over one thread of the fabric worked over two threads of the fabric

3e. 3f.

The second stage is to work back over the first row of half cross-stitch with the top diagonal completing the cross-stitches.

Complete cross-stitch on 16 count fabric – Complete cross-stitch on 32 count fabric – worked over one thread of the fabric worked over two threads of the fabric

3g. 3h.

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 3 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

BLACKWORK PATTERNS

The blackwork patterns are worked after the cross-stitch borders.

The blackwork patterns are worked alternating between a running stitch and a back stitch. This method of stitching gives an even line on the front of the work and is least likely to cross over open holes of the fabric on the back of the work. It is best to stitch in an up and down motion (as in the diagrams below) with the fabric pulled firmly in a stretcher bar frame rather than working the stitches in a sewing fashion as sewing can distort the fabric and stitches.

RUNNING STITCH BACK STITCH RUNNING STITCH

4a. 4b. 4c.

Some of the patterns are worked with two strands of floss in the darker areas and one strand in lighter areas. This gives the Blackwork pattern depth and is known as shading. The thicker line on the blackwork patterns indicates two strands of the floss and the thinner line on the blackwork patterns are worked in one strand of floss. You can also refer to the sheet of coloured pictures at the book of this booklet to see the areas that are darker and lighter in colour. The technique of changing the thickness of the threads is optional, and the whole design can be worked in either one thread for a lighter box or two threads for a darker if preferred. Some of the patterns have been changed by missing out stitches in the design, this gives the blackwork patterns depth. When working the blackwork patterns take care not to cross over open holes of the fabric at the back of the work as the thread could show through the hole at the front.

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 4 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

OUTSIDE PANEL OF THE ETUI BOX (1) – PANEL A

Refer to page 1 for the size of fabric required. Use the colour picture at the back of the booklet for a guide of the colours used on each pattern. Embroider all the cross-stitch knot garden borders first in two strands of floss. The panel has two different corner patterns that are repeated again at the top in the opposing corners (see the colour picture). Where the pattern has been repeated it has been left blank for creating your own patterns if desired. To work the original patterns simply rotate the pattern below to match the section of the panel that you are working on. The green pattern on this design is worked with one strand of floss, the other patterns are worked with one strand of floss for the light areas and two strands for the dark areas. Refer to the instructions on the next page for the method of working the four blackwork patterns.

OUTSIDE PANEL (1): Worked over one thread of the fabric on 16 count and over two threads on 32 count

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 5 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

BLACKWORK PATTERNS OUTSIDE PANEL OF THE ETUI BOX (1) – PANEL A

The patterns shown below are worked over two threads of the fabric on 32 count fabric. When working on 16 count fabric work the pattern over one thread of the fabric.

BOTTOM LEFT AND TOP RIGHT PATTERN BOTTOM RIGHT AND TOP LEFT PATTERN

CENTER PATTERN

GREEN PATTERN

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 6 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

OUTSIDE PANEL OF THE ETUI BOX (2) – PANEL A

Refer to page 1 for the size of fabric required. Use the colour picture at the back of the booklet for a guide of the colours used on each pattern. Embroider all the cross-stitch knot garden borders first in two strands of floss. The panel has the same pattern on all four corners sections in brown and the same pattern for the four inside sections in blue. Where the pattern has been repeated it has been left blank for creating your own patterns if desired. To work the original patterns simply rotate the pattern below to match the section of the panel that you are working on. The green center pattern on this design is worked with one strand of floss, the other patterns are worked with one strand of floss for the light areas and two strands for the dark areas. Refer to the instructions on the next page for the method of working the three blackwork patterns.

OUTSIDE PANEL (2): Worked over one thread of the fabric on 16 count and over two threads on 32 count

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 7 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

BLACKWORK PATTERNS OUTSIDE PANEL OF THE ETUI BOX (2) – PANEL A

The patterns shown below are worked over two threads of the fabric on 32 count fabric. When working on 16 count fabric work the pattern over one thread of the fabric.

OUTSIDE CORNERS – BROWN PATTERN CENTER PATTERN

INNER SECTIONS – BLUE PATTERN

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 8 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

OUTSIDE PANEL OF THE ETUI BOX (3) – PANEL A

Refer to page 1 for the size of fabric required. Use the colour picture at the back of the booklet for a guide of the colours used on each pattern. Embroider all the cross-stitch knot garden borders first in two strands of floss. The panel has the same pattern on all four corner sections in blue and the same pattern on all four diamond sections in brown. Where the pattern has been repeated it has been left blank for creating your own patterns if desired. To work the original patterns simply rotate the pattern below to match the section of the panel that you are working on. The green and brown patterns on this design are worked with one strand of floss, the blue pattern is worked with one strand of floss for the light areas and two strands for the dark areas. Refer to the instructions on the next page for the method of working the three blackwork patterns.

OUTSIDE PANEL (3): Worked over one thread of the fabric on 16 count and over two threads on 32 count

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 9 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

BLACKWORK PATTERNS OUTSIDE PANEL OF THE ETUI BOX (3) – PANEL A

The patterns shown below are worked over two threads of the fabric on 32 count fabric. When working on 16 count fabric work the pattern over one thread of the fabric.

CORNER BLUE PATTERN DIAMOND PATTERN

GREEN PATTERN

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 10 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

OUTSIDE PANEL OF THE ETUI BOX (4) – PANEL A

Refer to page 1 for the size of fabric required. Use the colour picture at the back of the booklet for a guide of the colours used on each pattern. Embroider all the cross-stitch knot garden borders first in two strands of floss. The panel has two different corner patterns that are repeated again at the top in the opposing corners (see the colour picture). Where the pattern has been repeated it has been left blank for creating your own patterns if desired. To work the original patterns simply rotate the pattern below to match the section of the panel that you are working on. The green pattern on this design is worked with one strand of floss, the other patterns are worked with one strand of floss for the light areas and two strands for the dark areas. Refer to the instructions on the next page for the method of working the three main blackwork patterns.

OUTSIDE PANEL (4): Worked over one thread of the fabric on 16 count and over two threads on 32 count

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 11 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

BLACKWORK PATTERNS OUTSIDE PANEL OF THE ETUI BOX (4) – PANEL A

The patterns shown below are worked over two threads of the fabric on 32 count fabric. When working on 16 count fabric work the pattern over one thread of the fabric.

BOTTOM LEFT AND TOP RIGHT PATTERN

BOTTOM RIGHT AND TOP LEFT PATTERN CENTER PATTERN

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 12 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

LID OF THE ETUI BOX – PANEL H

Refer to page 1 for the size of fabric required. Use the colour picture at the back of the booklet for a guide of the colours used on each area of the pattern. Embroider all the cross-stitch knot garden borders first in two strands of floss. Below is the pattern for lid of the box. Refer to the instructions on the next page for the method of working the pattern.

LID: Worked over one thread of the fabric on 16 count and over two threads on 32 count

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 13 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

BLACKWORK PATTERNS ON THE LID OF THE ETUI BOX – PANEL H

The pattern shown below is worked over two threads of the fabric on 32 count fabric. When working on 16 count fabric work the pattern over one thread of the fabric.

CENTER PATTERN

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 14 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

INSIDE SIDE PANELS (1) – PANEL C

Refer to page 1 for the size of fabric required. The small inside side panels are worked in two different open patterns using a single strand of the light green floss. Using open patterns is a quicker method of filling in an area and also makes a nice contrast to the outside of the box. Extra care must be taken when working the open patterns, when carrying the thread across the back of the work to the next pattern. Try to take the shortest path possible to ensure that the thread does not cross over more open holes of the fabric than is necessary as the thread will show through the hole and spoil the embroidery.

INSIDE PANEL (1): Worked over one thread of the fabric on 16 count and over two threads on 32 count

The pattern shown below is worked over two threads of the fabric on 32 count fabric. When working on 16 count fabric work the pattern over one thread of the fabric.

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 15 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

INSIDE SIDE PANELS (2) – PANEL C

Refer to page 1 for the size of fabric required. The small inside side panels are worked in two different open patterns using a single of the light green floss. Using open patterns is a quicker method of filling in an area and also makes a nice contrast to the outside of the box. Extra care must be taken when working the open patterns, when carrying the thread across the back of the work to the next pattern. Try to take the shortest path possible to ensure that the thread does not cross over more open holes of the fabric than is necessary as the thread will show through the hole and spoil the embroidery.

INSIDE PANEL (2): Worked over one thread of the fabric on 16 count and over two threads on 32 count

The pattern shown below is worked over two threads of the fabric on 32 count fabric. When working on 16 count fabric work the pattern over one thread of the fabric.

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 16 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

INSIDE SIDE PANELS CENTER SQUARE – PANEL G

CENTER SQUARE: Refer to page 1 for the

size of fabric required.

The pattern on the center square is worked in a single strand of light green floss over one thread of the fabric on 16 count and over two threads on 32 count.

The pattern shown below is worked over two threads of the fabric on 32 count fabric. When working on 16 count fabric work the pattern over one thread of the fabric.

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 17 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

RIBBONS FOR THE INSIDE PANELS

The ribbons that go across the width of panels B are embroidered on the counted fabric using a Blackwork border pattern. Or you can use ready-made ribbons for your box. You will need four pieces of fabric 5 ½ inch by ¾ inch, (14 cm by 2 cm). The Blackwork border is 4 inch across and ½ inch wide, (10 cm across and 1 cm wide) and worked along the center of the fabric strip. The edges of the fabric are folded to the back of the strip before the embroidery is begun so that these edges can be sewn in place when the Blackwork embroidery is being worked. The Blackwork pattern is started in the center of the strip, working along one side of the strip then the other catching the turned in edges of the fabric in the stitches at the back of the work. The ends of the ribbon do not need to be turned in as they will be glued to the back of panels B.

BLACKWORK RIBBONS

BLACKWORK RIBBONS RIM OF THE LID

RIM OF THE LID

The rim of the lid is worked in four sections. You will need four pieces of fabric 3 inch by 5 inch (8 cm wide and 14 cm long). Fold the fabric in half length-wise so that the fabric is 1 ½ inch wide and 5 ½ inch long, (4 cm wide and 14 cm long). Measure ¾ inch (2 cm) from the fold on one side of the fabric and measure ¾ inch (2 cm) in from the end of the strip. Embroider the Blackwork border pattern along the length of the fabric so that the pattern is ½ inch wide and 4 ¼ inch long (1 cm wide and 10 ¾ cm long). This border pattern should fit within the ¾ inch (2 cm) wide area of fabric measured from the fold. Embroider only through one side of the fabric, as the other side is the inside of the rim of the lid.

RIM OF THE LID

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 18 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

DECORATING THE REMAINING PANELS

The remaining panels are best covered in plain or patterned cotton fabric that compliments the colour of the counted fabric and stitching. The panels could be covered in stitching but this can make the box look a bit busy. Explanation of covering the panels will be explained in the assembly of the Etui box.

ASSEMBLY OF THE ETUI BOX

Refer to the diagram below and the instructions on the following pages for assembling the box.

Glue: Use white tacky glue such as Aleene’s original tacky glue or PVA to glue the fabric to the box panels and for assembling the box. If you are cutting your own cardboard panels you will need to glue batting (wadding) to one side of panels A (outside panels) B (inside large panels) C (inside small panels) G (inside center square) and H (lid). Using the card panels as templates to cut out the batting (wadding). Stick the batting (wadding) to the card using tacky glue.

Note: If glue gets onto the fabric where you do not want it, immediately take a damp cloth and wipe away the excess glue before it is allowed to dry. The glue can be easily wiped off when wet but once dry the glue will not come off.

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 19 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

PANELS A – Glue fabric pieces to panels A First Edge: Lay the fabric so that the right side is face down on the table, place card panel A on top of the fabric. If you are using embroidered or patterned fabric, you may want to pin the fabric onto the card using dress making pins, so that the embroidered or patterned fabric is positioned correctly. If you are using plain fabric this is not necessary. Glue the seam allowance of the fabric to the back of the card on one side of the board. (Do not glue the back of the embroidery or fabric to the front of the card, only the seam allowances at the back of the card, as the glue can seep through the fabric). Do not spread the glue to the edge of the card board panel but about 1 cm (1/4 of an inch) away from the edge of the panel as the glue can seep through the fabric and show at the edge of the panel. After one side has been glued place the glued panel under a heavy book and allow to dry (20 minutes should be long enough for the glue to hold). Repeat this with all the fabric pieces for panels A. Second Edge: Beginning with the first panel, glue the opposite side to the glued side, pulling the fabric tight and evenly so that there are no puckers. Glue the seam allowance on the opposite side in the same method as the first side and then place under a heavy book and allow to dry. Repeat this with the other three panels (see diagram 20a. below). Third Edge: Beginning with the first panel again; trim away some of the excess fabric at the corners of the panel. Cut along the edge of the panel and then up the side of the excess fabric cutting out a square of fabric at each corner (see diagram 20b. below) Fold the corners under neatly and glue the edge (see diagram 20c. below). Place under a heavy book and allow to dry. Fourth Edge: Glue the fourth side in the same method as the third side, pulling the fabric tight so there are no puckers.

FIRST AND SECOND EDGE CUTTING CORNERS FOLDING AND GLUING EDGE

20c.

20a. 20b.

PANELS B – Glue fabric pieces to the panels B: Panels B are glued in the same method as panels A accept that the seam allowance at the top and bottom edge of the panel are glued at least 3 cm (1 ¼ inches) from the edge of the board, because if the glue seeps through the fabric is could show. The top 2 cm of panel B protrudes above panel A and will be an edge for which the lid fits onto and will show (see assembly diagram on the previous page).

PANELS C, D, E, F, G, H and J: Glue fabric to panels C, D, E, F, G, H and J in the same method as panels A.

RIBBONS: The blackwork ribbons or regular ribbons are glued to the back of panels B so they lay across the front of panels B and are used to hold packets of needles and scissors in place. Pin one end of ribbon to the back of panels B about half way down and glue into place, measure the position of the ribbon so you can glue the ribbons on the other panels in the same position. Place panel B with glued ribbon under a heavy book and allow to dry. Repeat this process with the remainder of panels B, ensuring that the ribbons on these panels are in the same position as the first panel.

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 20 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

When the ribbon has dried, remove the pin, then take the ribbon across the front of panel B. Pin the other end of the ribbon to the back of board opposite, and level with the first end of ribbon so that it is tight. Glue the end of ribbon in place and place under a heavy book to dry. Remove the pin when dry.

FLAPS OF FABRIC: A flap of fabric is glued to the back of panels B and C at the bottom. These flaps will be used to join the side panels to the bottom of the box and acts as a lever. Panels B fabric flaps: Using the same colour fabric that was used to cover panels B, cut a flap of fabric the same width as panel B and 4 inches (10 cm) long. Look at the back of your glued panels B and choose the end with the neatest folded corners, mark this end with a pin. This will be the top of your panel. You want the top to be the neatest as the top protrudes above panel A and will act as an edge for the lid to fit on, so the folded corners will show. Glue two inches of the fabric flap to the back and bottom of the panel B (opposite the end marked with the pin) and then place under heavy book to dry. Repeat with the other three panels. You can take out the pins marking the top of the panel. Panels C fabric flaps: Using the same colour fabric that was used to cover panels C, cut a flap of fabric the same width as panel C and 2 inches (5 cm) wide. Glue one inch of the fabric flap to the back and bottom of the panel C (it does not matter which end) and then place under heavy book to dry. Repeat with the other three panels.

GLUE PANELS B TO PANELS A: Before gluing panel B to panel A, match the two panels together to see where you need to spread the glue so that it does not show. Spread tacky glue along the top edge on the back of panel A only. Spread tacky glue on the back of panel B covering the entire area accept 1 inch along the top edge of the panel (opposite the end with the flap) as this area of the panel protrudes above panel A and is the edge on which the lid sits on. Carefully place the two panels together and then place the panels under several heavy books and allow to dry. A flap of fabric should be hanging at the bottom between the two panels. NB: If glue does seep out immediately take a damp cloth and wipe away the excess glue before it is allowed to dry. The glue can be easily wiped off when wet but once dry the glue will not come off.

GLUE PANELS C TO PANELS D: Spread glue across the entire back of panel C and place the panel on to the back of panel D and then place under several heavy books and allow to dry.

GLUE PANELS A & B TO PANEL E: Using the flap of fabric at the bottom of panel A and B, glue this flap to the backside of covered panel E making sure that panel A is facing out and panel B is facing in towards the bottom of panel E. Glue one panel, hold and manipulate the flap of fabric to get the tension you would like, the panel should lay at a 45 degree angle. Prop the panel up against a cup or glass jar and allow to dry. Once the first panel is dry, glue on the flap of fabric for next panel at the same tension as the first one and prop up with a second cup or glass jar and allow to dry. Repeat this process with the other two panels.

GLUE PANEL F TO PANELS A AND B: Glue center panel F over fabric flaps of Panels A and B on top of panel E. Hold everything in place by placing a weight in the center and supporting sides with cups or glass jars.

GLUE PANELS C TO PANEL G: Glue the flaps at the bottom of panels C and D, to the backside of covered panel G, with panels D facing the back of panel G. There is no need to prop up the sides of the panels or to place under a heavy book.

GLUE CENTER PANELS TO THE MAIN BOX: Glue the center panel G with the small panels to the center of panel F at a 45-degree angle to the large panels B (see box assembly diagram on page 19). Weigh down the center with a sock filled with coins or other weight. Put an elastic band around the outside panels of the box to close the box as the weight in the center could stretch out the side panels.

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 21 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

EDGE OF THE LID: Place the strip of embroidered blackwork fabric over Panel I so that the embroidery fits down the middle of one side of the board. At one of the short ends of panel I, trim of the excess fabric so that you have ¼ of an inch (6 mm) of fabric for turning. Turn in the two edges off the fabric so that they hidden against the board. Join the two folded edges with an invisible stitch known as stitch. Slip Stitch: Use a single strand of polyester sewing thread the same colour as the fabric. Put a knot in the end of the thread and hide the knot in the fold of the fabric at the folded edge of the panel. Working from right to left, slip stitch the two sides together by going through the fabric for approximately 1/8th of an inch (3 mm), then make a across to the other side of the folded fabric and go through the fabric for approximately 1/8th of an inch (3 mm). Continue to slip the needle and thread through the opposing folded edges to the other end of panel I (see diagram 22a. and diagram 22b. below). The only stitch that may be visible is the short straight stitch joining the two sides of the fabric. Pull the stitches firmly so that this straight stitch is tight and invisible.

SLIP STITCH POSITION OF SLIP STITCH RUNNING STITCH

22a. 22b. 22c.

Running Stitch: Work a running stitch along the long edge of panel I securing both sides of the fabric seam allowance. Try to stitch close to panel so that the fabric is tight. When you have reached the other short end of panel I, trim off the excess fabric so that you have ¼ of an inch (3 mm) for turning. Turn in the edge of the fabric and slip stitch the two folded edges. When the side of the panel has been slip stitched, do not finish the thread off as the same thread can be used to slip stitch the ends of two panel’s I together. Repeat the same process with the other three Panels I. Making the square edge of the lid: Slip stitch the ends of the panels I together to form a square edge for the lid. Do not finish off the threads as these can be used to slip stitch the edge to the top of the lid. Slip Stitch the rim I to the top of the lid H: Slip stitch the edge to the edge of the top of the lid H (see diagram 22d. below). The fabric seam allowance should be pushed to the inside of the lid.

SLIP STITCH EDGE TO LID GLUE FLAPS AND PANEL J

22d. 22e.

Glue the seam allowance to the lid: Once the edge has been slip stitched on then carefully trim some of the seam allowance off the bottoms of panels I away and glue the seam allowance to the inside of the lid H (see diagram 22b. above). Cord along the edge of the lid: A cord was glued around the top edge of the lid and down the sides to cover up the join between the edges of the lid and the top of the lid. Use the point of a needle to apply the glue to the cord. You will not require the cord if your slip stitching joining the rim of the lid and top of the lid is neat and the stitches are not showing. Use three individual strands of the brown DMC embroidery cotton to make the cord. Hide the beginning of the cord on the inside of the lid, glue the cord along the outside edge of the join of two panels and then along the top edge of the lid and then down and up the next side of two panels. Continue gluing down the cord in a continuous length until the beginning when you go down the side of the lid next and then up the inside of the lid to hide the end. Glue panel J to the inside of the lid: Glue Panel J to the inside of the lid, to the back of panel H and over the flaps of fabric of panels I and hiding the ends of the cord. Place a weight over panel J and allow to dry.

Blackwork Etui Box Instructions by Tanja Berlin & Beppy Berlin © Berlin Embroidery Designs Page 22 No part of these instructions can be copied or shared without obtaining permission from Tanja Berlin

BLACKWORK ETUI BOX: BERLIN EMBROIDERY DESIGNS

OUTSIDE PANEL (1): Template A – Pages 5 & 6 OUTSIDE PANEL (2): Template A – Pages 7 & 8 OUTSIDE PANEL (3): Template A – Pages 9 & 10

OUTSIDE PANEL (4): Template A – Pages 13 & 14 LID: Template H – Pages 15 & 16 INSIDE PANELS: Templates C, G and Ribbons

Blackwork Etui Box Berlin Embroidery Designs Tanja Berlin © Beppy Berlin