SUSTAINABLE MÄORI TOURISM IN TAI TOKERAU

Report prepared by Dr Neil Mitchell, School of Environmental and Marine Sciences, University of Auckland

and Helena Skalova

PRE-PUBLICATION DRAFT The published version of this document may differ from this draft in form and/or content.

First distributed in draft form December 2000.

The James Henare Mäori Research Centre The University of Auckland Private Bag 92-019 AUCKLAND

Phone 09 3737-599 x 85085 Fax 09 3737-458 E-mail [email protected] Web site: http://www.jhmrc.ac.nz

© James Henare Maori Research Centre, University of Auckland 2000, 2001, 2002

This book in both printed and electronic format is copyright, and may not be reproduced in whole or part for sale or commercial distribution without written authorization from the copyright holder. The material may be freely copied or distributed on a non-commercial basis by any group or individual engaged in promoting sustainable community-based development initiatives, provided the source is acknowledged explicitly.

The research on which this report is based was conducted as part of the James Henare Mäori Research Centre’s research programme on sustainable Maori development, with funding from the Foundation for Research, Science and Technology.

Cover Photograph: at the meeting of the two oceans. (All photographs in this document were taken by Dr Neil Mitchell)

CONTENTS

PREFACE...... 3

GENERAL INTRODUCTION TO THE STUDY ...... 5

SUSTAINABLE TOURISM ...... 5 THE ‘NATURE’ IN NATURE TOURISM...... 6 SELECTION OF SITES OF SPECIAL INTEREST FOR SUSTAINABLE TOURISM8 INITIAL SITE SELECTION ...... 8 Figure 1: The Bluff (West coast, ) ...... 8 FIELD SURVEY OF SELECTED SITES...... 9 Assessment of ecological patterns, ecological quality, sustainability and sensitivity..... 9 Field ecological survey with relevance to potential nature tourism experiences ...... 10 Map 1: The study Area ...... 11 THE STUDY REGION ...... 12 GENERAL ISSUES RELATING TO THE REGION ...... 12 Figure 2: Cape Reinga, showing the strength of the tides ...... 12 Figure 3: Kapowairua [Spirits Bay], looking west ...... 13 THE NATURAL ENVIRONMENT...... 14 Sand country ...... 14 Figure 4: Motu o Pao [Cape Maria van Diemen] and Te Werahi Beach...... 14 The far north ...... 15 Ahipara ...... 15 Wetlands...... 15 Figure 5: Te Werahi swamp, leading across to the beach ...... 15 Exposed Coasts ...... 16 Sheltered harbours...... 16 NATURAL ECOSYSTEMS ...... 16 Forest and shrubland systems...... 16 Figure 6: Prostrate manuka at Murimotu [] (Note the very red soil) .. 17 Wetlands...... 18 Freshwater...... 18 Coastal ...... 18 Sand Country ...... 18 Figure 7: Looking from above Murimotu [North Cape] to the Kotoka Spit ...... 19 Harbours/estuaries ...... 19 STRUCTURE OF THE REPORT...... 19 Map 2: Possible routes including Motu o Pao [Cape Maria van Diemen] and Cape Reinga ...... 20 Figure 8: A spectacular coastal view looking north from The Bluff...... 21

ECOTOURISM POSSIBILITIES IN THE FAR NORTH...... 21 PROPOSALS ...... 22 Eastern section...... 22 Map 3: Possible route from Te Paki ...... 23 South of the Cape Reinga Road...... 23 North of the Cape Reinga Road...... 24 Map 4: Possible routes north of the Cape Reinga road...... 25 Figure 9: Country to the north of Cape Reinga Road, looking towards Tirikawa. 26 Map 5: Possible routes in Kapowarua [Spirits Bay] and areas .. 27 Western Section...... 27 Kapowairua (Spirits Bay) and Unuwhao ...... 28 Mokaikai – Murimotu (North Cape)...... 28 Figure 10: Pupu Harakeke ...... 28 Parengarenga Harbour ...... 29 CASE STUDY ...... 29 Map 6: Possible routes in the Murimotu [North Cape] and Parengarenga harbour area...... 30 THE KARAURIA PROPERTY ...... 31 Figure 11 Typical small farm with potential for development as a tourism base.. 31 OTHER MATTERS ...... 32 ENVIRONMENTAL AND LOCAL KNOWLEDGE...... 32 WAHI TAPU ...... 32 PHYSICAL LIMITATIONS...... 32 Figure 12: Parengrenga Harbour, looking from the northwest to Kotoka Spit...... 33 CONCLUSIONS: ...... 33

APPENDIX...... 34 SIGNIFICANT TRADITIONAL PLACE NAMES...... 34

Nga Pou Whakahï o Te Tai Tokerau – Muriwhenua 2

Preface

“He iti pioke no Rangaunu, he au töna”. I te taenga mai o te pukapuka nei, ka äta titiro ahau i nga kupu, i nga whakaahua hoki ki roto, ä ka huri oku whakaaro ki nga wä o töku taitamarikitanga, ki ëtahi o nga pükörero i whangai ai i ahau i nga tikanga o tënei takiwä rongonui. Nä reira e mihi atu ana ahau ki a koutou, Hoera, Pako, Waata, Mahia, Höhepa korua ko Ruihi, Rikihana, Niki, koutou ko nga tini kua haere atu ra i mua i a mätou ki tua o te ärai. Haere mä te Rerenga Wairua ki nga mätua, ki ngä tüpuna, ki te käinga tüturu kua whakaritea e tö tätou Kaihanga mö tätou katoa. He mihi hoki ki a koutou, nga pou tokorima o te whare o Muriwhenua, ä ki te röpü äwhina i whakamanawa i taunaki ai i a mätou i te mahi rangahau nei. He koha mä koutou tënei pukapuka nä tö koutou pütahi rangahau i te Whare Wänanga o Tämaki-makaurau; ko te tumamako, ahakoa töna iti, he taonga kë. This publication is one of a set of reports of research on sustainable Mäori tourism in Muriwhenua conducted by the James Henare Mäori Research Centre, mostly in 1999/2000. In turn, these reports form part of a series of regional studies on sustainable Mäori tourism, which arose from parallel work on sustainable Mäori development generally in Tai Tokerau. This research has been sponsored by the Foundation for Research Science and Technology, with some additional work funded directly from the Centre. As Dr Mitchell makes clear in this study, the uniqueness of North is under threat. A striking aspect of this to me has been the virtual disappearance if the famed kumara from which Te Kao took its name, and it would not surprise me if the even the hötete which used to thrive on their juicy foliage has become endangered too. It was good to see that the püpü harakeke has proved to be more resilient than might have been expected, but this and many other unique plants and animals are under constant threat from the inroads of unrestrained development. Current threats to the environment include the impact of logging trucks, tour buses and sand boarders. Splashing in the waves may be a thrill to the tourists but it doesn’t do much for the tuatua and the toheroa. So community solidarity and locally determined regulation of activities and access to the unique features of this land is vital if tourism in this region is to achieve positive social and environmental goals. We are grateful to the authors of this study and those who cooperated with them in this and other aspects of the project. I am especially grateful to Bonnie Conrad, Ikanui Kapa and Dema Petera for providing us with the traditional names for many of the localities mentioned in the text. In preparing this work for publication I have given these names priority over their more recent English counterparts. Generally both the older and newer names are mentioned together, with the latter in parentheses. However when one of these places is mentioned several times in a discussion, the Maori name alone is used after the first mention. These older names have interesting and important histories, some of which are included in a companion book resulting from this phase of our sustainable tourism research. This is The Tribes of Muriwhenua: Their Origins and Stories, by Dorothy Urlich Cloher, Mäori translation by Merimeri Penfold. This has been published by the Auckland University Press and is available from the James

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Henare Maori Research Centre. Other reports prepared by researchers associated with the Centre which relate directly to sustainable Mäori tourism in Muriwhenua include Mäori Attitudes to Tourism in the Muriwhenua Region, by Matthew Noonan; Resource Inventory for the Muriwhenua Region, by Dr Charles Johnston; and Commercial Development of Sustainable Mäori Tourism in the Muriwhenua Region, by Dr Val Lindsay. These are available in electronic form through the Centre’s web site; a limited number of copies have been printed for libraries, Mäori authorities, community development workers, and participants in the research. We hope that the information and advice contained in this set of reports will be useful to whänau, hapü and iwi-based sustainable tourism ventures, especially in the study area, and eventually also further afield.

Richard A. Benton Director, James Henare Mäori Research Centre November 2002

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General Introduction to the Study

This report is the fourth in a series concerning the identification of sites of special environmental or cultural interest, which may be suitable for development as marae- based nature or cultural tourism ventures. The first reports dealt with parts of the North and South Hokianga1 and the Bay of Islands; these reports covered some of the basic issues relating to nature tourism and site selection. For clarity and continuity of context, some of these points are repeated below. In ecological terms, Tai Tokerau is one of the most fascinating parts of Aotearoa, extending north into the subtropical South Pacific; this is reflected in the unique plants, animals and environments not experienced elsewhere. Yet whilst this accords it mana in any assessment of Tai Tokerau’s growing potential for nature tourism, many of the environments on whose qualities and uniqueness such ventures may depend, barely survive in their natural state. In addition, Tai Tokerau is the setting for some of Aotearoa’s earliest, and historically perhaps most important human stories, which are rarely heard beyond the hapü where they originate. Development for agriculture and more recently, plantation forestry has reduced the number of high quality sites of indigenous ecosystems and unspoiled environments. Loss of tribal land and a push to the cities to find work has fragmented many Maori communities, and much traditional knowledge and transmittal of stories is in danger of being lost. Sadly this is reducing those features that distinguish Tai Tokerau from the rest of . Knowledge of the unique values of the region’s environments at the local level, as well as their sensitivities, is the first critical step towards realising their tourism potential. The identification and evaluation of these natural features by ecologists, and acknowledgment of the cultural base for local communities, is therefore an integral part of the James Henare Maori Research Centre’s Sustainable Maori Tourism in Tai Tokerau project.

Sustainable Tourism

Sustainable tourism is usually based on nature tourism, and may include ‘ecotourism’ and ‘cultural’ tourism - small-scale, community-run operations that do not degrade or demean the resource that attracts tourists. One major objective of the “Sustainable Maori Tourism in Tai Tokerau” project is to identify existing and potential opportunities for commercial tourism development. This is to be achieved through an examination of the natural environment in the context of historical, cultural and social resources and the availability of fundamental tourist services: specifically, to prepare an inventory of existing natural resources in order to evaluate their potential as a tourism product. As well as having a unique ecological interest, sites must also satisfy the international tourism trade’s most important requirements for nature tourism:

1 N D Mitchell and G N Park (1998), Nga Pou Whakahii o te Tai Tokerau – Hokianga ki te Raki, James Henare Maori Research Centre, The University of Auckland, Auckland, 38p, and Nga Pou Whakahii o te Tai Tokerau – Hokianga ki te Tonga, James Henare Maori Research Centre, The University of Auckland, Auckland, 37p.

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• a wilderness setting • protected natural areas • interpretive/educational programmes • cultural experiences • outdoor activities • guides • communication in the client’s language • an all-inclusive package

Depending on the location, some of these criteria will be afforded a greater weight than others; however, all criteria should be represented in some part, or have the potential to be developed. As these assessments are for the specific purpose of sustainable Maori tourism, it is envisaged that they will be of greatest benefit to those communities who have a desire to establish or expand marae-based tourism. In summary, we present an inventory of natural resources that includes: • a set of sites that have appropriate ecological qualities, and/or that display considerable historical and cultural qualities to the tourist • an evaluation of the ability and resilience of these qualities to sustain a tourism market • other opportunities and constraints relating to tourism potential for each site.

Initial identification of sites derived in part from pre-existing ecological surveys undertaken by the project ecologists several years earlier. Due to extensive agricultural, horticultural and forestry pressures, only fragmented remnants of land- based indigenous ecosystems are left in the eastern and northern parts of Tai Tokerau. The coastal beaches, however, offer spectacular scenery, unpolluted water and relatively untouched wilderness areas. The eventual choice of sites was based on those areas where nature tourism ventures operating from a local iwi or hapu base could be most viable.

The ‘Nature’ in Nature Tourism

The “Sustainable Maori Tourism for Tai Tokerau” project of the James Henare Maori Research Centre is concerned with tourism in its widest sense: from analysis of existing tourism services in the region to inventories of its cultural, historical and natural resources. However, in that this part of the project centres around the natural features upon which Tai Tokerau’s iwi and hapu can draw to attract tourists, its concerns are primarily with what is now widely known as ‘ecotourism’ - nature and/or cultural tourism. Mass tourism highlights ‘consumer’ activities such as sport, duty-free shopping or beach leisure and is tied to large international hotels. Nature tourism focuses on the special features that have evolved in a local environment - its landscape, coast and forests, and the culture they have shaped - and the features that distinguish it from

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the rest of the world. Nature-tourists are as diverse in their motivation as in the range of experiences they seek. One of the few points of agreement in the international tourism literature is the fact that nature tourism markets are among the fastest growing2. The World Tourism Organisation predicts that by 2000 most of the 86% increase in worldwide tourism receipts will come from active, adventurous, nature- and culture-based tourism3. In addition travellers in these markets are increasingly seeking experiences that are environmentally sensitive and beneficial4. Wherever nature tourism has developed throughout the world, it has raised the public consciousness of the natural and cultural heritage of those areas well beyond the local communities to which it brings economic benefit. Nature tourism tends to attract people who have respect for both cultural differences and the natural environment. Its manageable scale and low-key qualities make it a form of tourism with which small, marae-centred Maori communities can become involved. The great majority of international visitors to New Zealand visit some environmental attraction, with over 70% of them visiting at least one national park. The Muriwhenua rohe is no exception; it is well positioned to offer nature-based tourism alternatives to the range of visitors coming to the area. Managed well, with environmental sustainability and sensitivities paramount, nature tourism has the potential to bring the benefits of commercial development to such communities in this part of Tai Tokerau while having little, if any, adverse effects on their way of life or the surrounding environment.

2 Pamela A. Wight “North American Ecotourism Markets: Motivations, Preferences, and Destinations, Journal of Travel Research, Summer 1996. 3 Reingold, 1993, quoted in Wight, above. 4 Cook, S.D., E. Stewart, and K.Repass (1992) Discover America: Tourism and the Environment, Washington, DC: Travel Industry Association of America.

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Selection of Sites of Special Interest for Sustainable Tourism

Initial site selection

The project ecologist had undertaken and published comprehensive ecological surveying of the whole of Tai Tokerau in the late 1970s - early 1980s (the NZMS 290 Northland Forest Mapping Series)5. Whilst this was out-of-date for some aspects of natural resource planning, we considered it provided a sufficiently accurate and detailed ecological and natural environment database to enable insightful interpretation before visiting the sites.

FIGURE 1: THE BLUFF (WEST COAST, AUPOURI PENINSULA)

Ecologists commonly subdivide a landscape and distinguish one natural area from another to assess priorities for biodiversity conservation. But while these criteria can identify the sites that are most valuable for nature conservation, and while these sites are commonly the best for nature tourism, they do not encompass the ways that tourists seek places in which they can immerse themselves in authentic, quality environments. Ecologists evaluating natural areas for nature conservation will normally undertake a three-stage analysis. Firstly, using a combination of aerial photography, topographic maps and field reconnaissance, all prospective areas are identified and delineated on maps. Secondly, an ecosystem classification sub-divides them into different types based upon vegetation characteristics, with each mapped area being named accordingly, often with several types included if it is an ecologically diverse locality. Thirdly, the quality of each area, for conservation purposes, is evaluated, typically according to a series of criteria: ecological representativeness; natural diversity; rarity and distinctiveness, naturalness; long-term viability; size, shape, spatial

5 Mitchell, N.D. and Park, G.N. (1983). Indigenous forest maps (Northland), NZMS 290; a series of six - Ahipara- Herekino, -Rawene, Waipoua-Aranga, Whangaroa-Kaikohe, Government Printer, Wellington.

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configuration, connectivity and boundaries, etc.6 The project team had some contact with representatives of the whanau to discuss which aspects of their natural and cultural environment they felt had potential to attract nature tourists and support a sustainable tourism industry. However, this was not as extensive as we would have liked. Where possible, based on existing information (such as the NZMS 290 maps), a provisional set of sites within the key environments were identified with the following attributes: large and ecologically diverse and with a capacity to maintain themselves distinctive ecologically, even unique typical or characteristic of the sub-region’s natural landscape types

Field Survey of Selected Sites

Assessment of ecological patterns, ecological quality, sustainability and sensitivity. Once we began to refine our site selection and commenced site visits, other features that would appeal to nature tourists were sought. These included: • the capability of the site to illustrate the origin, evolution and biogeographic relationships of New Zealand’s forests, ie. to provide the ecological narrative on which nature tourism depends if it is to focus on a region’s distinctive natural ecology • the capability of the site to provide a unique experience of the natural ecology of New Zealand • panoramic positions within the site from which a visitor can look out over the landscape, have its particular ecology and history explained, and experience a sense of remoteness and wild, unspoiled nature • a capability for the site and all its ecological variety to be experienced by passage through it • the capability to provide a range of nature tourism experiences; different walks to different types of forest, different views, etc Laid on top of these are the criteria concerned with the sites’ ecological well-being, should they become centres of tourism attention: • long-term ecological sustainability • ecological sensitivity to visitor pressure • cultural sensitivity From combining these groups of criteria, an assessment was made of the opportunities and constraints of each site with respect to nature tourism.

6 K.F.O’Connor, F.B.Overmars, M.M.Ralston (1990) Land Evaluation for Nature Conservation, Conservation Sciences Publication No.3 Department of Conservation, Wellington, 328pp.

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Field ecological survey with relevance to potential nature tourism experiences As in the ecological assessment of the field survey, no formal ranking of sites was carried out concerning their attractiveness for nature tourism. However, a range of criteria, recognised in the literature as important attributes of nature tourism7 were incorporated in the field assessment. • Immersion in a wilderness or extensive natural setting, with remoteness and unspoiled indigenous environments prevailing in the experience. • Experiencing the natural authenticity of the region. • Experiencing ecological novelty and uniqueness. • Straightforward accessibility from road ends or via well-known tracks. • Opportunity for adventure-type, overnight trek, trail ride or canoeing/kayaking through the area. • Opportunity for shorter casual walks, trails rides or canoeing/kayaking. • Viewing outstanding natural features or wildlife. • Experiencing panoramic viewpoints and dramatic ecological contrasts. • Opportunity to increase knowledge about nature and ecology. • Seeing unusual plants and animals. • Interacting with native people, and learning about their culture. • Appropriate accommodation in the vicinity of the site.

7 Hall, C.M., and B. Weiler (1992). “What’s Special about Special Interest Tourism”, Special Interest Tourism, edited by B.Weiler and C.M.Hall, London, Bellhaven Press, pp.1-14; Wight, cited above.

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MAP 1: THE STUDY AREA

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The Study Region

General Issues Relating to the Region

The region divides naturally into four areas: the hilly far northernmost end of the peninsula, Cape Reinga – Te Paki – Murimotu (North Cape); the long, sandy Aupouri Peninsula; the rolling hill country around Kaitaia; and, the Ahipara area at the south- western end of the peninsula. This report concentrates on the Aupouri Peninsula and the far northern area as locations for ecotourism and nature tourism. In part this was due to time constraints, but also the peninsula and Cape Reinga are dominant feature of the landscape and have many qualities that could be incorporated into tourism activities.

FIGURE 2: CAPE REINGA, SHOWING THE STRENGTH OF THE TIDES

This region has been long settled by both Maori and Europeans; yet it has always proved to be a difficult area to farm due to the poor soils and maritime exposure. Parts of the area were also dug over extensively for kauri gum, which has further exacerbated the poor soils. Thus settlement, at least in the European period has been fragmentary and shifting as different commodities have come to prominence. These effects also extend to the coastal environment, where, for example, sand abstraction is now declining, with mariculture of oysters increasing. As a result much of the terrestrial and coastal area has been modified over long periods of time. The terrestrial landscape we see today is largely cleared of original ecosystems. Few,

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even relatively unmodified forests or wetlands remain; although some unique forest areas and wetlands remain in the Te Paki – Murimotu (North Cape) area. The general impression that visitors receive as they travel up the peninsula is one of pastoral farms, shrubs, weeds and pine plantations. However, as the visitor travels north, they receive fragmentary glimpses of the visually stunning coastline and harbours, yet even these have not escaped modification. There is an existing tourist trade based on mass day tourism. Coaches collect visitors from their accommodation across the whole Bay of Islands – Kaitaia region, drive straight up the peninsula, either on Whäro Te Oneroa a Tohe (Ninety Mile Beach) or the highway, to Cape Reinga. The coaches may stop at Tapotupotu Bay for lunch, before their return south, perhaps also stopping at the kauri museum, north of . Even most independent travelers carry out the same activity. Thus tens of thousands of visitors annually travel through the region, yet they are given no opportunity to sample the other features of the region. One major issue for the whole region is the difficulty of access to the coast, except in a very few places. It is essentially impossible for visitors to access any of the east coast from Rarawa Beach in the south to Paua and Te Hapua in the north, a distance of some 25-30 Km. The west coast is even less accessible, in the south is the only easy vehicle access, although RVR and four-wheel drives can access down Te Paki Stream in the north. Maps show apparent access at various other locations; however, these are all private roads or no longer exist. In the far north, easy coastal access is only possible at Cape Reinga, Tapotupotu Bay and Kapowairua (Spirits Bay). As a result, many of the most spectacular and high quality environments are inaccessible to ordinary visitors.

FIGURE 3: KAPOWAIRUA [SPIRITS BAY], LOOKING WEST

Even if visitors do try to travel independently off the main highway, the roads are in such poor condition that they are hazardous for all drivers. Land management and 'ownership' is the other dominant feature of the region, which has a major impact on any consideration of tourism. Much of the region is under the control of Maori Incorporations and the Department of Conservation. These groups strictly control access to all the key environments of the region. Again, due to their

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various policies, visitors are not able access many places. To compound difficulties for any visitor, or potential eco-tourism operator; land over which access may be required, can have a number of owners distributed across it; each with their own policies over access. All these issues make the point that for any other tourism activity, except the current mass day tourism, these need to be organised by local people, who are part of the local community and so can more readily work with the local land managers. But also, only if visitors can be encouraged to stay for a few days, will any of the alternatives to simply driving along the peninsula be available.

The Natural Environment

There are five types of natural environment that dominate the region: the sand country of the Aupouri Peninsula; the hilly volcanic country of the far north and Ahipara; the very large wetlands through the whole region; the exposed coasts open to the ocean; and, the large, shallow, sheltered harbours.

Sand country

The whole Aupouri Peninsula is sand, overlain with various thicknesses of soil; however, modern agriculture and forestry, disguise its true nature. Both coasts of the peninsula have spectacular sand country. The west coast with the black sands of Whäro Te Oneroa a Tohe (Ninety Mile Beach), and what would once have been spectacular sand dunes, now planted in pines. In the north the yellow dune systems between Te Paki Stream and Te Werahi Beach. On the east coast there are yellow and white sand beaches culminating in the amazing white sand Kokota sandspit.

FIGURE 4: MOTU O PAO [CAPE MARIA VAN DIEMEN] AND TE WERAHI BEACH

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The far north

Terminating the Aupouri Peninsular are ancient volcanic hills stretching from Cape Reinga to Murimotu (North Cape). Between these two headlands are a complex of often steep valley systems with high points (over 300m) at Te Paki, Kohuronaki and Unuwhau. The whole area is covered with shrublands of various stature (in part reflecting the fire history of the area), interspersed with unique stands of forest. There are major wetlands throughout the area (see below) as well as spectacular beaches and coastal features. There are many sites of major nature conservation value, with the Surville Cliffs area being the most important. The soils of the area are spectacularly coloured and where exposed may be bright red, ochre or purple.

Ahipara

Ahipara is at the southern end of the peninsula and is also comprised of ancient volcanics. There are two particular features here: the plateau area, which has been long (probably pre-human) devoid of forest cover; and, the spectacular sand country on the west coast.

Wetlands

FIGURE 5: TE WERAHI SWAMP, LEADING ACROSS TO THE BEACH

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The region contains several very large wetlands of international importance: Kaimaumau in the south, Te Werahi and Paranoa in the north. There are many other smaller wetlands scattered throughout the region. In pre-European times all low lying land was swampy and it is only recent draining has changed this. Exposed Coasts

The entire coastline is exposed to open ocean. This gives it a very distinct wild nature; in many places it is very dangerous, with strong and spectacular tides meeting off Cape Reinga, where Te Moana Tapokapoka a Tawhaki and Te Moana nui a Kiwa (the and Pacific Ocean) meet. This also means that the marine life is characteristic of these open exposed coasts. In some places, such as Kapowairua, it is known that there is a unique, bottom dwelling, inshore fauna, which has only recently been described.

Sheltered harbours

The region is also noted for its large sheltered harbours on the east coast: Rangaunu, and Parengarenga. Each harbour has its own character: Rangaunu is shallow, muddy and mangrove filled; Hohoura is shallow, sandy and open, dominated by Maunga Tohoraha (Mt Camel); Parengarenga is very large, sandy and enclosed by the Kotoka Spit. The inner arms of all these harbours are filled with mangroves. These harbours have abundant sea life and are of international significance for migratory, wading birds, which stop off to feed and roost. Large flocks of migratory birds move through the area in spring and autumn on their journeys over Te Moana nui a Kiwa to and from areas in the eastern Pacific and northern hemisphere.

Natural Ecosystems

The original land cover would have been a complex mixture of kauri forest, broadleaf forest and coastal forest on the hilly systems, extensive wetlands in the valley bottoms, along with well developed mangroves in the estuaries. Little remains of these original systems, especially the forests, having been replaced by farming, forestry or regenerating shrublands.

Forest and shrubland systems

Most of the kauri has been cleared, as has much of the broadleaf and coastal forest. In the far north, there are still areas of kauri to be seen with scattered remnants of the broadleaf forest surviving in the gullies; coastal forest has survived in the far north and in scattered places along the peninsula. There are extensive areas of shrubland at Ahipara and the far north; some of these may be natural and persistent, such as on the Ahipara Plateau and Taumataroa Flat. It is likely that all the others are human induced and have been maintained by fire. At present the far north presents a picture of a mosaic of shrubland, forest and wetland; given protection from fire (and possum) it seems likely that most of these

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shrublands will eventually regenerate to forest. The patches of forest that survive are of very high conservation value. A report8 documenting the species composition of many of the remnants at Te Paki, identified many rare species in these stands, together with exceptionally well developed forests of broadleaf species such as taraire, kohekohe and puriri. In general there is little access into these forests; the shrublands are impenetrable, being very dense and filled with the spiny Hakea. The peninsula is almost devoid of forest, despite having once supported large stands of kauri, although this may have only been in the pre-human period. The swamp kauri exhibition at Awanui provides a graphic example of what the landscape once looked like. There are scattered pohutukawa in the coastal areas, and extensive areas of shrublands where farming has failed. Ahipara is especially noted for its shrubland vegetation on very poor soils (sometimes known as gumland vegetation).

FIGURE 6: PROSTRATE MANUKA AT MURIMOTU [NORTH CAPE] (NOTE THE VERY RED SOIL)

The shrubland vegetation of the region is notable for its variety of growth forms and flower colour variation in manuka and kanuka. As one travels north from the beginning of the peninsula it is very noticeable that the manuka flowers change from white, through pink to red. So that in the far north, reddish flowers predominate, providing a very attractive appearance. Kanuka shows this in a less developed way.

8 Mitchell, N.D. (1984). The forest remnants of Te Paki. Report to the Department of Lands and Survey.

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There are also many growth forms to be seen of manuka and kanuka. For example in wetlands and very poor soils, manuka has a dwarf form; on the serpentine soils at Murimotu there are sprawling forms of kanuka.

Wetlands9

Freshwater

The large wetlands in the region are of great conservation significance; each has its own character. Kaimaumau is very shallow, over poor soils, but always wet with a cover of dwarfed manuka; Paranoa is less shallow, with a deep central channel, on more fertile soils, showing very dense growth of reeds; Te Werahi is in many places a deep swamp (8-10m) with floating mats of vegetation. These latter two wetlands are known to be very ancient, Paranoa dating back some 20,000 years.

Coastal

Throughout the whole region there are extensive mangrove forests. In the upper reaches of all the harbours there are mangroves. The has some of the tallest and best developed mangroves in the whole country. These mangrove forests are very important spawning areas for fish.

Sand Country

There has been no systematic description of the great variety of sand ecosystems in the region. Plants species known to be rare elsewhere are still quite common in the region, e.g. pingao, spinifex, sand pimelia. All these systems are fragile and easily abused. The west coast dunes have been systematically 'stabilised' and planted in pines, with only the dunes at the far end of Whäro Te Oneroa a Tohe (Ninety Mile Beach) left unplanted. The dune systems beyond here are still in a relatively 'pristine' condition and offer a variety of natural environments. The east coast dunes have not been exploited for pine planting to quite the same extent as in the west; however, many of them have become weed infested. In the north, the Kokota Sandspit had sand mined from around it, causing some changes to occur, but otherwise it is still in a relatively natural condition. All around the Murimotu (North Cape) and Te Paki areas, there are areas of relatively unmodified beaches and dunes, with the system at Kapowairua (Spirits Bay) representing a fine example of a pink shell beach.

9 McLean, R.F., Enright, N.J., Mitchell, N.D. and Braggins, J. 1985. Wetlands and heathlands of the Te Paki region. Report to the Department of Lands and Survey.

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FIGURE 7: LOOKING FROM ABOVE MURIMOTU [NORTH CAPE] TO THE KOTOKA SPIT

Harbours/estuaries

The very large harbours in the region, although they have been long exploited for their food resources, and latterly as sites of marine farming, are probably some of the least polluted and most productive harbours in the country. More than anywhere in the region, it is the harbours that still retain a feeling of natural character.

Structure of the report

This report is divided into two sections; a larger scale discussion primarily of the far north area as an illustration of the broader availability of ecotourism opportunities; the second part is as a case study of how such a local enterprise could work, based on discussions at Houhora.

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MAP 2: POSSIBLE ROUTES INCLUDING MOTU O PAO [CAPE MARIA VAN DIEMEN] AND CAPE REINGA

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FIGURE 8: A SPECTACULAR COASTAL VIEW LOOKING NORTH FROM THE BLUFF.

Ecotourism possibilities in the far north

The far northern area encapsulates many of the possibilities and issues associated with ecotourism and nature tourism in Muriwhenua. At present there is an established day, mass tourism trade that travels up the peninsula, (either up the beach or the road, returning on the alternate) to Cape Reinga. There may be stops on the way for various activities, e.g. dune boarding by Te Paki Stream, barbecue at Taputoputo, a stop at The Bluff, but most of the time is spent travelling past the local environment. For the independent traveler, there is little accommodation north of Kaitaia, little interpretive information, very few shops and limited organised activities. It is likely that most independent travelers simply duplicate the mass tourism activities, except they stay on the main 'highway' all the time. A few may brave the road to Kapowairua (Spirits Bay) or Tapotupotu Bay, but for most it is probably a long, boring drive to and from Cape Reinga. The more affluent are able to fly from Kaitaia to Waitiki Landing and take advantage of some linked organised activities. Over the few weeks of summer, the camp grounds at Waitiki Landing, Kapowairua and Taputoputo Bay are full; yet little is available except for individual, outdoor pursuits such as swimming, walking and fishing. For those who do stay in the area, access to the natural environment is very restricted. There are walkways maintained by the Department of Conservation through the Te Paki area to the west of Te Paki trig and, in the Te Werahi and Paengarehia (Twilight Beach) areas. Visitors may also walk along Kapowairua, from Spirits Bay Road to the Whangakea (Pandora) track. There are also a series of old 'tracks' in the area, which allow the braver visitor to explore more of the area between Spirits Bay Road and the Cape Reinga Road. However, easy access into these other areas is now very difficult as the beginning of many tracks have been bulldozed to prevent any vehicular or horse access. The area to the east of the Spirits Bay Road is completely inaccessible to visitors due to the policies of the various land managers. In the following discussion, I have chosen to ignore tenure issues, in the hope that local people, who wish to develop ecotourism operations, will be able to readily negotiate their way through the local bureaucracies.

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Proposals

There are two obvious bases for any local activities: Te Paki and Waitiki Landing; both already have some infrastructure present and are situated to take advantage of the eastern and western sections of the area respectively. All these areas can be traveled by individual visitors, yet their experience would be much enhanced by guiding from local people. One issue is that the distances involved are quite large; horse trekking or limited four-wheel drive access would immensely improve their experience.

Eastern section

There are two quite different types of experience available in this area. To the south of the Cape Reinga Road are the extensive sand dunes, wetland systems and Te Moana Tapokapoka a Tawhaki (the Tasman coast); to the north of the road, shrublands, forests and Te Moana nui a Kiwa, the Pacific coast. A series of linked circuits could be developed, to take the visitor through these areas, so that they can obtain the best experience.

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MAP 3: POSSIBLE ROUTE FROM TE PAKI

South of the Cape Reinga Road

A 'route' to Whäro Te Oneroa a Tohe (Ninety Mile Beach) already exists down the Te Paki Stream Road and the Te Paki Stream. This could be utilised to take visitors down to the beach and sand dunes. The sand dunes here and at Paengarehia (Twilight Beach) offer a remarkable feeling of being lost in a desert. Walking up into these dunes provides a marked contrast to the surrounding 'green' areas; routes could be developed to best show the dunes off to visitors. It is probably better to drive visitors to the end of Te Oneroa a Tohe and take the Cape Reinga Walkway

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along Paengarehia beach and then through the sand dunes and across the end of the Te Werahi wetland, where they could be picked up again (a 10Km walk). This route could be traveled in either direction, either on foot or horseback. There are two other similar routes to and from the Cape Reinga Road. One route takes visitors across to Te Werahi Beach, where they turn south and travel out to Motu o Pao (Cape Maria van Diemen), then along to Paengarehia and back to the Cape Reinga Road (15 Km). The other route is best started at Cape Reinga (otherwise it is a steep climb up to the Cape), taking the path along Te Werahi Beach, the turning up by the Te Werahi Stream, back to Cape Reinga Road (8 Km). The advantage of all these routes is that they are circular and so visitors do not have to retrace their route, except for a short section. The scenery along all these routes is spectacular, with contrasting green of pastures, wetlands and shrublands, with the sand country of the coast. The sea along this coast is very clear with dramatic tides and surf, unfortunately it is mostly very dangerous for swimming or diving. There is good bird life along these routes, as well as many interesting sand dunes, wetland and coastal plants. There are many cultural, historical and archaeological sites along this entire coast, which could form part of a fascinating narrative to accompany an appreciation of the natural environment. A completely different type of experience could probably be obtained by kayaking through the open areas of the Te Werahi wetland. This wetland is old, in places the bottom deposits show it to have been in existence for at least 8,000 years.

North of the Cape Reinga Road

This area includes the land from Waitiki Landing to Whangakea (Pandora) and Cape Reinga. In contrast to the country south and west of the road, this area is very hilly, rising to 310m at Te Paki trig and is covered in dense shrublands and forest, with wetlands in the valley bottoms. There are a series of tracks running through the area, although they are mostly overgrown or not maintained. The principal managed track runs from the Cape Reinga Road (approx. 4.5 Km from Te Paki) towards the north coast and across to Tapotupotu Bay (9 Km). This track has much to see along it, e.g. visitors can take a side track down to 'Radar Bush' to see a stand of kauri and the rarest tree in New Zealand (Metrosideros bartletti) (2 Km round trip). Further on another side track leads to Te Paki trig (2.2 Km round trip) with panoramic views across the whole of the northern end of New Zealand. Back on the main track the route becomes a fairly easy walk across to Tapotupotu Bay; there are pleasant views all the way along this route. The vegetation is mostly varying types of impenetrable scrub, although there are some notable areas of remnant forest along the way. An interesting example is on the steep, south side of Tirikawa, where there is a good example of a kohekohe forest.

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MAP 4: POSSIBLE ROUTES NORTH OF THE CAPE REINGA ROAD

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FIGURE 9: COUNTRY TO THE NORTH OF CAPE REINGA ROAD, LOOKING TOWARDS TIRIKAWA

One interesting alternative is to go down to the coast at Whangakea (Pandora), the western end of Kapowairua (Spirits Bay), although this is perhaps better as part of a visit to Kapowairua (see below). Another possible walk in this area is to take the old track that heads west before the Te Paki trig path and leads to Tapotupotu Bay. Taking this track would provide the best opportunity to see the now rare fernbird. There are other old tracks through the area, but these are for the visitor wanting a 'tougher' experience. For example there is a track from Te Hapua Road up to the high point at Kohuronaki. This hill is very steep with forest on its upper slopes. On its northern side there is perhaps the best example of puriri forest in the whole country. From Kohuronaki visitors could either travel back to the Cape Reinga Road via Papawiri Hill (6 Km from road to road). A much longer walk is possible across to Te Paki trig and the Cape Reinga Road (15 Km from road to road); however, this track is probably in poor condition and would only suit visitors wanting a 'adventure1' experience. In reality, this route would have once especially suited horse trekking. There are interesting areas of forest along all of these routes, but they would need careful interpretation and access.

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MAP 5: POSSIBLE ROUTES IN KAPOWARUA [SPIRITS BAY] AND WAITIKI LANDING AREAS

Western Section The 'western' area of the Cape Reinga – Murimotu (North Cape) region, falls into three sections: Kapowairua (Spirits Bay) and Unuwhao; Mokaikai and Murimotu; and, Parengarenga Harbour. The whole area offers enormous possibilities for a variety of nature tourism / ecotourism ventures, whether walking, 4wd access it, horse trekking, boating, diving or kayaking.

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Kapowairua (Spirits Bay) and Unuwhao

The long, pink beach of Kapowairua, is a beautiful place to visit. It is deceptively long, extending some 9 Km from camping ground to Whangakea (Pandora) in the west. There is a track along the back of the beach, but it is a long steady walk to reach Whangakea and then a further 5.5 Km to Cape Reinga Road or 8.5 Km to Tapotupotu Bay. To fully appreciate this beach, horse trekking is probably the best approach. An overnight camp at Whangakea would be a good experience – possibly coming down from the Cape Reinga Road one day, camping overnight, then travelling along the beach the next day. Another possibility would be to 4wd along behind the beach until the Paranoa Swamp is reached. This wetland is another very remarkable wetland, having been here for some 10,000 years. It is a classic example of a wetland, with abundant wildlife and plant life. An interesting experience would be to kayak along some of the open waterways of the wetland. The marine life of Kapowairua has recently been shown to be unique, which should make for interesting diving. There is also abundant shellfish along the coast. To the west of Kapowairua is the impressive hill called Unuwhao. It is possible to walk up from Kapowairua to the summit pinnacles, where panoramic views can be obtained. There is also access from the east via a 4wd track and then walking the last couple of kilometers. In both cases it is a 5 – 6 Km round trip. There are interesting areas of forest around the summit of Unuwhao. In all these areas there are fascinating historical, archaeological and cultural aspects that could add extra dimensions to a visit.

Mokaikai – Murimotu (North Cape)

The Mokaikai – Murimotu area is a heavily modified area (by both humans and natural disturbance) yet Murimotu is one of the national conservation jewels. Murimotu is a small area of serpentine rock, on which has evolved 11 unique species of plant, found nowhere else. There are also various unusual growth forms of other more common species. It is still home to large ground snails, the püpü harakeke (Placostylus hongii), extremely rare or extinct elsewhere even in Muriwhenua, but which can be readily seen here. FIGURE 10: PUPU HARAKEKE

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Most of the area is in various types of scrub, rough grazing and pine plantations, with scattered pockets of forest. There are a series of access roads and 4wd tracks throughout. It is not an area that is suitable for walking through as the interesting points are widely scattered. In general the most interesting places are on the eastern coast through to Murimotu (North Cape) and Takapaukura (Tom Bowling Bay). The most interesting route would probably be to drive out to Murimotu, then down the east coast, visiting the sand country and beaches along that coast, down to the mouth of the Parengarenga Harbour at Ngatehe Point (opposite the white sandhills of Kokota). Rather than return via the very rough 'road', it would be better to be taken by boat back to Te Hapua.

Parengarenga Harbour

Parengarenga Harbour is one of the largest harbours in New Zealand. It has two other notable features: the Kokota sandspit, forming a spectacular set of white sandhills, as a barrier to the east; and, it is a major bird migration site and breeding ground. In spring and autumn, tens of thousands of migratory waders pass through here forming enormous flocks. However, access to the harbour is very limited for casual visitors, with only two easy points of access: Te Hapua and Paua. However, the harbour should offer many possibilities for local people with ready access. Ideally, boat trips could be made to visit the inlets, bird roost areas and sand hills with a commentary on the natural and cultural history of the area. A visit to the white sand hills would be a high point of any such visit.

Case study

As part of this work we also looked at how a local operator might develop an ecotourism venture. Part of the prompting for this was the observation that once north of Awanui, there is little available before you arrive at Waitiki Landing, that might attract eco-tourists. Essentially, one is faced with a two hour, relatively uninteresting drive; yet there are clearly a number of possibilities. Part of the issue is lack of accommodation or a base from which to carry out ventures, even though there are a number of settlements along the highway, e.g. Houhora and Te Kao. We spent some time discussing options with several the families in the study area, we have used one property and location as an example of how an ecotourism venture could be developed.

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MAP 6: POSSIBLE ROUTES IN THE MURIMOTU [NORTH CAPE] AND PARENGARENGA HARBOUR AREA

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The Karauria Property10

FIGURE 11 TYPICAL SMALL FARM WITH POTENTIAL FOR DEVELOPMENT AS A TOURISM BASE.

Their property is close to State Highway 1, north of Houhora. There is direct access on to the property and to the owners’ adjoining land (which is currently in rough grazing). In one paddock, there is semi-natural pond with an adjacent area that could readily be turned into a camping ground (see illustration). Certainly, the land and pond would need landscaping and probably some grading to provide level camp sites, or campervan sites. An ablution block would also be needed. If the proprietors were serious about attracting eco-tourists, who tend to be very environmentally aware, then it would be important to make such developments in an as 'environmentally friendly' manner as possible. For example, the ablution block would need a state-of-the-art septic tank, with the effluent being sensitively disposed of (e.g. as fertiliser for trees), and/or the toilet block could be of the dry vault style. The landscaping should be with native trees, especially designed to attract in native birds; the pond should be developed to suit native fish and waterfowl. There would also need to be some form of ongoing predator control, to further enhance the survival of native plants and animals. Thought might also need to be given to how the surrounding land on the property was managed, so that visitors would see that an environmentally sustainable approach is taken: for example, organic vegetable, herb and flower production (which could be sold to visitors). From such a base, the central regions of the Aupouri Peninsula become open to visitors. There are two general sets of opportunities: the Houhora Harbour and the east coast; and, Whäro Te Oneroa a Tohe (Ninety Mile Beach) on the west coast. The nearby Houhora Harbour is clearly suitable for various kinds of boat trip, whether kayaking (perhaps starting from nearby sidearms) or more organised trips to the harbour entrance or oyster farms. As with the Parengarenga Harbour, some form of trip involving a boat ride, followed by a trip over the east coast dunes to the beautiful beaches, would also be very appealing. A base in this area could also

10 This name has been chosen to protect the privacy of the family who own the property; there is no “Karauria” in the Northland telephone directory!

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provide trips up to Kokota, possibly combined with a boat trip back via Te Hapua. The other prospect is ready access to Te Oneroa a Tohe. A circular route would be possible, travelling via Ngatiwhetu and the Bluff, down to Hukatere and back to Houhora. This would provide an exciting experience of the wildness of the west coast, without having to take the long drive up the entire beach that the coach operators use. Along the beach there are also interesting sand dune systems to visit. At present there do not appear to be any ecotourism operators in the central area of the peninsula, yet there would appear to be a number of opportunities, given a good base.

Other matters

Environmental and local knowledge

There is little technical literature about this region and relatively few people with an intimate technical knowledge of the region. We also developed the impression that there is little local knowledge of the environmental features of the region. There will be strong interest in local cultural knowledge, some of which has been written down. However, for full visitor appreciation it requires an integration of both the environmental and cultural aspects. As in other reports we can only recommend that if local people are interested in developing ecotourism or nature tourism, then it is likely they will need training. This is especially important so that they can explain the local environment both in their own terms, and also in terms that their visitors will relate to.

Wahi tapu

The very ancient history of this region means that there are many wahi tapu, some obvious and many confidential. This reinforces the need for hapu-approved people to either act as guides and/or determine where visitors may go.

Physical Limitations

There are a number of limitations. There is little infrastructure to support any ventures and no obvious network of local people who could be working together. There is a danger of spending too long in the day just driving from place to place, although with careful planning this could be avoided. There is a complex land management structure throughout the region, with which any potential entrepreneur would have deal. Our impressions are that this is likely to prove a greater hurdle to achieving a sustainable tourism operation than all other limitations. The natural environment, although extensive, only has a limited number of tracks and roads, giving the potential for over-use. Sand country can become damaged, for example by 'sand boarding' or 4wd vehicles. Wetlands can have their surface

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vegetation destroyed or the sediments disturbed. Many of the soils are clay, which can become degraded and rutted through over-use. There is a very high fire risk in many areas, which operators would have to take into account.

FIGURE 12: PARENGRENGA HARBOUR, LOOKING FROM THE NORTHWEST TO KOTOKA SPIT

Conclusions: Muriwhenua

There is enormous potential for fully developed ecotourism ventures. These could range from: simple guided walks around harbour edges or near the roadside; guided walks along the many trails in the region; to specialist ecological tours for bird study, wetlands, diving, etc. There is also the potential for more adventure type trekking either on horse back or four wheel drive vehicle. There is spectacular scenery, which in itself would provide a feeling of 'getting back to nature' for visitors from densely populated northern hemisphere cities.

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Appendix

Significant Traditional Place Names

Within the text, some significant traditional place names have been used alongside and in place of more recent names appearing on maps and in many guidebooks. The English and Mäori equivalents of these names are listed below.

Cape Maria van Diemen: Motu o Pao Kapowairua: Spirits Bay Maunga Tohoraha: Mount Camel Moana nui a Kiwa: Pacific Ocean Moana Tapokapoka a Tawhaki: Tasman Sea Motu o Pao: Cape Maria van Diemen Mount Camel: Maunga Tohoraha Murimotu: North Cape Ninety Mile Beach: Whaaro Te Oneora a Tohe North Cape: Murimotu Pacific Ocean: Te Moana nui a Kiwa Paengarehia: Twilight Beach Pandora: Whangakea Spirits Bay: Kapowairua Takapaukura: Tom Bowling Bay Tasman Sea: Te Moana Tapokapoka a Tawhaki Tom Bowling Bay: Takapaukura Twilight Beach: Paengarehia Whaaro Te Oneora a Tohe: Ninety Mile Beach Whangakea: Pandora

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