Introduction Scientific Reserves Captain Cook and the French captain, This area is classified as a Scientific Jean de Surveille sighted the north coast The whole of the northern tip of the Reserve because of its unique biological within a few days of each other in 1769. In is steeped in Maori tradition value. It contains a high number of plants 1772 Marion du Fresne anchored his sailing and in the heritage of their past. It is the and animals found nowhere else in the ship in Spirits Bay and landed in a vain most spiritually significant area in the world. quest for fresh water but it was not until the country for it is here that after death, all On the serpentine soils of the North arrival of trading and whaling vessels in the Maori spirits travel to the pohutukawa tree Cape a range of plant species exhibit late 18th century that European contact on the headland of Cape Reinga (Te dwarfism and other variations which are with the area really began to have an Rerenga Wairua) and descent into the unique. impact. Close behind the whalers and traders in the 1830s came the missionaries underworld (reinga) by sliding down a root Motuopao Island Nature Reserve who sought to convert Maori to Christianity. to fall into the sea below. They climb out This island, lying offshore from Cape The first European landowners in the again on to Ohaua, the highest point of the Maria Van Diemen is valued for its breeding region were Stannus Jones and a young Three Kings Islands to bid their last farewell colonies of fairy prion, white-faced storm English lawyer, Samuel Yates, who acquired before returning to the land of their petrel and black-winged petrel. Following ownership of a large tract of land in 1873. ancestors, Hawaiiki-A-Nui. successful rodent control, Robust skink and Yates married a local Maori princess and Matapia gecko were released onto the Reserves became farmer, storekeeper and gum island in 1997. Both species appear to be trader. He became known as “King of the doing well. North” and his homestead as “Paki” from Te Paki Recreation Reserve The Island was also the site of the first This includes most of the accessible which the name Te Paki derives. lighthouse in the area, first shown in March In the late part of the last century, it was recreational beaches, the dunelands, Cape 1879. The light was extinguished in 1941 Reinga, Te Paki Stream and hinterland of the gumdiggers who made their presence and the lens installed in the new tower at scrub covered hills as well as the 2,900 ha felt in the Far North. Armies of fortune Cape Reinga. for pastoral farmland. The unique natural seekers settled just south of the area and values of this area include the endangered Mokaikai Scenic Reserve hunted over Te Paki for its bounty of kauri plant Bartlett’s rata, which was not Together with the adjoining Ohao gum, fossilised resin from the kauri tree discovered until 1975 and an extraordinary Blocks this area has an outstanding natural which had become highly desirable as the high number of native land snails including landscape and high concentration of backbone of varnish manufacturing. the nationally threatened flax snail colonies. historic and archaeological sites. Although The First World War, followed by the some access is possible, to get to Mokaikai economic slump of the 1930s brought or North Cape, permission is necessary to about the collapse of the industry although cross Te Hapua land. The main entrance is some activity in gum fields lingered until the at where at present there is 1950s. a visitor information display, limited motel In 1930, the Keene family bought up accommodation and a casual cafeteria. A half of the northern headland (16,000 permit is required to cross Maori land. hectares) and they grazed the hilltops and broke in large tracts of land for farming. In History 1966 the entire area of farm was bought by the Crown and today only 2,900 hectares Maori had occupied Northland has been kept as farmland. The remaining hundreds of years before Abel Tasman, area has been encouraged to return to its sailed in for water to the Three Kings natural state. Islands on the eve of Epiphany 1643. He named the Islands after the biblical three wise men. He was the first European to sight North Cape and was also responsible for naming Cape Maria van Diemen in honour of the Governor of Batavia’s wife.

Description Archaeological Sites

Lashed by winds, pounded by surf and Within the boundaries of the park there Cape Reinga sand or soothed by the calm of sunlit days, are close to 1,000 recorded archaeological the whole area of this northern tip of New sites in the form of agriculture sites, fortified and Te Paki Walks Zealand has a wild and unpredictable pa, storage sites and shell middens. These Cape Reinga Lighthouse nature. Around its shores sweep the sites assist in telling the story of a long and currents of the and the Pacific complex pattern of land use in the Far Ocean which meet in a foaming swell of North. broken water over the Columbia Bank just Care is taken to keep the sites intact west of Cape Reinga. and to preserve and respect the spiritual and cultural heritage of Maori. The Lighthouse As you visit the sites, please help to protect and preserve them. Cape Reinga lighthouse is one of the Please note that all archaeological sites most vital landmarks of Te Paki. Its light are protected by the Historic Places Act once shone from Motuopao Island where it 1993 and it is an offence to damage or had been installed in 1879 but its beam interfere with them in any way. was not visible from the waters of North Cape and in 1941 a lighthouse was built at Safety Watch Cape Reinga using the original lens from Motuopao. The remains of the original The Department of Conservation tower can still be seen on the northern end operates an 0800 number for members of of the offshore island. An automatic the public to report any safety hazards. battery-operated unit now stands on Cape Telephone 0800 999 005. Marina van Diemen and the Cape Reinga Emergency phone number for light is now electric. It was automated in conservation related law enforcement, eg 1987 and is now managed by computer illegal whitebaiting, vandalism of huts, from Wellington. The 1000 watt light bulb, tracks, signs etc, removal of plants on DOC magnified by the lens systems, throws a land, killing or catching of native wildlife, signal of warning 49 kilometres out to sea fishing in Marine Reserves, disturbing and is often the first light in marine mammals, strandings, sick or that sailors see. injured wildlife. 0800 362 468. For fire and search & rescue emergencies dial 111.

For further information, please contact Area Office 127 North Road KAITAIA Phone (09) 408 6014 Fax (09) 408 6019

Published by Department of Conservation

November 2002 CALDERS DESIGN AND PRINT CO. Crown Copyright Walking and Tramping

East Coast From Kapowairua the walkway follows Cape Reinga Coast Walk Key to Symbols the beach to Pandora. If the tide prevents, Time: Cape Reinga to Te Paki Walking Track The East Coast is generally more you can walk behind the dunes and over Stream – 8 hrs. Easy and well formed. sheltered with sandy bays suitable for water the headland at the eastern side of Time: Cape Reinga to Te Werahi Beach – Suitable for people of most ages and fitness levels.

NEW ZEALAND Pandora. 30 minutes. Length: 1.25 km. sports and rocky headlands where fishing, Constructed to “shoe” ENVIRONMENTAL snorkelling and scuba diving are popular. Fruit trees around the site mark a former Time: Cape Reinga to Cape Maria van standard. CARE CODE tourist camp. There is an open grassy area Diemen turnoff – 1 hr 45 mins Cape Reinga – Tapotupotu Bay Tramping Track Protect plants and suitable for self sufficient overnight Length: 6 kms. Time: 2 hrs 30 mins. May require skill and animals camping. The next section of walkway Time: Cape Reinga to Twilight beach – experience. Suitable for Length: 4.5 km between Pandora and Tapotupotu Bay 3 hrs 30 mins Length: 8.5 kms. people of average physical Remove rubbish A fairly steep climb via Sandy Bay provides mainly follows old farm tracks – reminders Time: Twilight Beach to Te Paki Stream fitness. Constructed to great coastal views. The track begins at “boot” standard. Bury toilet waste of the past use of this area.. road end – 3 hrs 45 mins. the Cape Reinga carpark or the western Mountain Biking Keep streams and The track departs uphill behind the The walkway starts from Cape Reinga end of Tapotupotu Bay following orange lakes clean grassy flat, to the Darkies Ridge junction. and leads down past steep cliffs to the long marker posts. The ridge is undulating offering spectacular sweeping Te Werahi Beach. This section Do not light Times shown are for a one way fires Cape Reinga Road to Pandora via Kauri views until it drops steeply to the makes a nice “short walk” or half day journey only, unless otherwise Bush Tapotupotu campsite and estuary which is excursion. Camp carefully shown. If the return journey is Time: 40 mins walk to Kauri best crossed at low tide. The beach walk takes nearly one hour more than 1 hour, food, drink, Keep to the track Bush Walk turnoff; The walkway continues to Cape Reinga and Te Werahi Stream is crossed at the far warm clothes and wet weather 2 hrs to Pandora; Length: 2kms: 6 kms. at the western end of Tapotupotu Bay – end of the beach – preferably at low tide. gear should be carried. On Consider others Pandora is a beautiful sandy bay extended bush walks a 2 hrs 30 mins. From Cape Reinga the From the stream at low tide the beach compass and topographical Respect our cultural accessible only by foot via the coastal walkway continues on down the West and rocks can be followed around the point map are recommended. heritage walkway (described below) or from the Coast. toward Cape Maria van Diemen. If the tide Streams can be uncrossable after heavy rain and should not Enjoy your visit Cape Reinga Road. does not allow, follow the orange marker be attempted. The 4WD standard road to Pandora is West Coast posts over Herangi Hill and to the sign Toitu te whenua suitable for walking or mountain biking. (Leave the land indicating the side track to Cape Maria van undisturbed) A side track leads to a remnant of Kauri The West Coast is more wild and Diemen (1hr 30 mins return). forest that once covered the Far North – it exposed than the East, with spectacular The main walkway continues along cliff takes about 1 hr 30 mins return. Another golden sand dunes. tops through flax and manuka scrublands side track 1 km up the road to the right, Te Werahi Gate then drops down to Twilight Beach. A sign leads up to Te Paki trig – the highest point Time: 30 minutes to Te Werahi Beach indicates an alternative route back to Te in the area. Length: 2.5 kms. Werahi gate. Travel along Twilight Beach – Cape Reinga Coastal Walkway – Time: 1 hr 15 mins to Twilight Beach. about 40 mins. (Kapowairua – Pandora – Cape Reinga) Length: 4 kms. There are two suitable sites for self Time: Kapowairua to Pandora From the gate there are two well-graded sufficient camping at the northern and – 3 hrs. Length: 8.5 kms. walks to the coast which connect with the southern ends of the beach and another at Time: Pandora to Tapotupotu Bay coastal walkway. A dry weather road the southern side of Scott Point. – 5 hrs 30 mins Length: 9 kms. across the farm leads to the signpost The walkway climbs up and over Scotts Time: Tapotupotu Bay to Cape Reinga – marking the beginning of the two tracks. Point following marker posts then drops 2 hrs 30mins. Length: 4.5 kms. The track across the boardwalk to Twilight down to the beach crossing a swamp via a This spectacular coastal walkway Beach is closed at present. boardwalk and down a steep set of steps. passes a dramatic coastline, with sand A day’s round trip (4.5 - 5 hrs) can also From here, Te Paki Stream mouth is dunes and headlands between Kapowairua be made through fabulous scenery – take about 1 hours beach walk and a further 1 on the east coast and Te Paki Stream on care to follow the orange topped marker hour up stream to the road and toilet. the west coast. posts over the dune lands. The coast can be followed further south Trampers need to be fit and self- Te Paki Stream from Te Paki stream, distances are – The sufficient. It pays to carry water as small Spectacular dune walking from the Bluff 19 km; Hukatere 51 km; Waipapakauri streams along the way can dry up over road end. 69 km and Ahipara 83 km. summer. There are no huts, but there are Mokaikai Scenic Reserve and North several areas for camping and the weather Cape Scientific Reserve is mild compared to other parts of New Permission to cross Maori land Zealand. to get to Mokaikai must be Make sure your tent is mosquito proof obtained from Incorporation, over the summer months! phone (09) 409 7831. Waitiki Landing, phone (09) 407 7508. $7 per person koha. $50 bond for key.