115-120 Zirin Dave n 47-48 ing 9-05-2010 18:00 Pagina 115 Dave Zirin Who will master the fate of World Cup 2010? Jabulani – a Zulu word meaning rejoice – is the name of the game for this summer’s sports extravaganza. But spending millions to satisfy FIFA and little to help the extremely poor local population is no way to ensure joy and happiness in South Africa. You see it the moment you walk off the plane: a mammoth soccer ball hanging from the ceiling of Johannesburg International Airport festooned with yellow banners that read, “2010 Let’s Go! World Cup!” If you swivel your head, you see that every immag- inable sponsor has joined the party – all branded with the FIFA seal. It’s when your head dips down that you see another, less sponsored, universe. Even inside this gleaming state-of-the-art airport, men Dave Zirin is sports editor for The Nation ranging in age from 16 to 60 ask if they can shine magazine and host of Sirius/XM’s Edge of your shoes, carry your bags, or even walk you to a Sports Radio. cab. It’s the informal economy fighting for breathing room amidst the smothering sponsorship. Welcome to South Africa, a remarkable place of jagged contrasts: rich and poor, black and white, immigrant and everyone else. On a normal week, it’s the dispossessed and the self-possessed fighting for elbow room. Racist apartheid, as many are quick to point out, has been supplanted with econom- ic apartheid in South Africa. You see evidence of this everywhere you go. It is not un- common – but nevertheless entirely tragic – to hear black South Africans say that in some parts of their lives, it was better under apartheid. As mentioned, these are the normal conditions, the normal contrasts. But the 2010 World Cup has taken these contrasts and propelled them into conflict. The present situation in South Africa could be called “Invictus in reverse”. 115-120 Zirin Dave n 47-48 ing 9-05-2010 18:00 Pagina 116 INVICTUS IN REVERSE. For those who haven’t had the pleasure, the film Invic- tus is about the way Nelson Mandela used sport – particularly the near all-white sport of rugby – to unite the country after the fall of apartheid. The coming World Cup has, in contrast, provoked efforts to camouflage every conflict and present the image of a united nation to the world. As Danny Jordaan, the World Cup’s lead South African or- ganizer said, “People will see we are African. We are world-class.” Note that the concern is about what the world sees – not what South Africans see. What South Africans see, as one young man told me, is, “Football looting our coun- try.” The contrasts are becoming conflicts because the government, at the behest of FIFA, is determined to put on a good show, no matter the social cost. There are the dispossessions by the thousands, as people are forced from their homes into makeshift shantytowns, both to make way for stadiums and to make sure that tourists don’t have to see any depressing scenes of poverty. The United Nations even issued a complaint on behalf of the 20,000 people removed from the Joe Slovo settle- ment in Cape Town, called an “eyesore” by World Cup organizers. There are the homeless who will be packed into settlements hundreds of miles from 116 the action. As Johannesburg councillor Sipho Masigo said about the removal of the poor, “Homelessness and begging are big problems in the city. You have to clean your house before you have guests. There is nothing wrong with that.” There is the crackdown on people who make their living selling goods by the stadi- ums. Regina Twala who has been vending outside soccer matches for almost 40 years, has been told that she and others must be at least one kilometer from the stadiums at all times. She said to the Sunday Independent, “They say they do not want us here. They do not want us near the stadium and we have to close the whole place.” In ad- dition, FIFA has pushed the South African government to announce that they would ar- rest any vendors that sell products emblazoned with the words “World Cup” or even the date “2010”. One woman who works in a clothing factory told of her manager looking on hurriedly to make sure that 2010 didn’t find its way on to any of the labels. Samson, a trader in Durban, said to me, “This is the way we have always done busi- ness by the stadium. Who makes the laws now: FIFA?” SPECIAL LAWS. Samson was only referencing the threats toward vendors, but he could have been speaking about the series of laws South Africa has passed to prepare for the tournament. Declaring the World Cup a “protected event”, the government, in line with FIFA requirements, has passed by-laws that “spell out where people may 115-120 Zirin Dave n 47-48 ing 9-05-2010 18:00 Pagina 117 drive and park their cars, where they may and may not trade or advertise, and where they may walk their dogs.” They’ve made clear that beggars – or even those caught using foul language (assumedly off the field of play) – could be subject to arrest. Then there are the assassinations. In a story that has garnered international news but little buzz in the United States, for example, two people on a list of twenty have been assassinated for “whistle-blowing” on suspected corruption in the construction of 117 the 150 million dollar Mbombela Stadium. The Sunday World newspaper attained the list, which included two journalists and numerous political leaders. There are accusations swirling that the list is linked to the ruling African National Congress, which the ANC has denied in bizarre terms: “The ANC wants to reiterate its condem- nation of any murder of any person no matter what the motive may be,” said spokesperson Paul Mbenyane. It’s never a good sign when you have to make clear that you are anti-murder. To add to this specter of political violence, an extremist right-wing organization, the Suidlanders, was found to be stockpiling arms – described as “explosives and thou- sands of rounds of ammunition” – in advance of the tournament. Since the death of white supremacist leader Eugène Terre’Blanche, the Suidlanders have had meetings around the country. They are trying to have people boycott the World Cup in solidari- ty with their cause. “The time has come for people to realize they cannot be on the side- 115-120 Zirin Dave n 47-48 ing 9-05-2010 18:00 Pagina 118 line any longer and everybody’s participation is needed to defend the last bastion of a true Christian nation against total annihilation”, says the statement on their website. UGLY GHOSTS. All of these steps – displacements, crackdowns on informal trade, the rise of a terrorist white majority, even accusations of state-sponsored assassina- tions – have an echo for people from the days of apartheid. Responsibility for this state of affairs falls firmly on the shoulders of FIFA but also on the ANC. I saw this myself when I took a private tour of the breathtaking 457 million dollar Moses Mabhida Stadium in Durban, South Africa. After the tour I left utterly stunned, for both better and worse. Named after the late leader of the South African Commu- nist Party, the stadium is a stylistic masterpiece. The eggshell white facility is visible for miles, rising from the earth in milky waves, contrasting sharply with its dusty, ur- ban environs. The open roof has a graceful, slender arc connecting one side of the sta- dium to the other. The arc itself is a wonder: starting as one clean curve, it then splits into two separate stretches of white. This is an homage to the post-apartheid South African flag, with the stripes meant to symbolize, as the government website states, 118 “the convergence of diverse elements within South African society, taking the road ahead in unity.” Well-heeled adrenalin junkies can even go to the top of the arc and bungee-swing across the pitch. On one side of the stadium, behind the goal, is a completely open vista in the shape of a mammoth square, giving on to the Durban skyline. But the true engineering achievement of Moses Mabhida Stadium are the bleachers. They angle up with such subtlety that the effect is of a saucer instead of a bowl. Every one of the 74,000 seats has a picture perfect sightline on the action, whether you are in the nosebleeds or the corporate boxes. The seats themselves are painted in rich colors: the first level is roy- al blue to represent the ocean, the middle ones are green to signify the land, and the top is brown, as a sportswriter said to me, “so it looks full on television.” The most striking color in the stadium is not in the bleachers, though. It’s the grass. The grass is a green so bright it hurts the eyes, with every blade appearing as if it were painstakingly colored with a magic marker. This has been created with the aid ofnear- infinite gallons of crystal clear water, which I saw constantly irrigating the field. RESOURCES VS IMAGE. I raise the issue of the stadium’s incomparable beauty because South African politicians in support of the World Cup accuse detractors of what they call “Afro-pessimism”. They claim that critics lack the faith that South 115-120 Zirin Dave n 47-48 ing 9-05-2010 18:00 Pagina 119 Africa can host an event of this magnitude.