Spring 2007

FREE COPY Hotel Örk www.hotel-ork.is - Tel: +354 483 4700 Hótel Örk is a country hotel located in Hveragerdi on the Golden Circle route, only 45 km from Reykjavik. Hveragerdi is a small village often called ´s "Health village". Hotel Örk is a first class hotel with all the comforts and services you would expect to find in a city, but conveniently situated in an exciting natural environment. Take a dip in our outdoor swimming pool, which features a water slide, hot tubs and a geothermal sauna.

page 2 page 3 Editor’s Comments

Happy New Year 2007 to all our readers. OK, so, it’s a bit late, but it’s the thought that counts. On a more current note, welcome to all the Mid In This Issue Atlantic Travel Seminar participants from around the world. ( 8-11 Feb) Spring 2007 Well, I thought we were headed for yet another nearly snowless winter in a place called Iceland, where temperatures have been unseasonably warm Touched by almost since the last issue. Then on January 1st, into the deep freeze we an Angel went until we reached about –10 Celcius or +17°F...BRRRR!!! They said A Truly we were going to get a lot of snow on the 10th but that storm missed us. Grand Hotel Other extended “flurries” have not and we now have a total of 16 inches.. ALL WINTER so far. Lots of good stuff in this edition along with a very spe- Little Land of cial story called “Touched by an Angel” which I am sure you will like. I did, Enchantment but then again, I wrote it. Also check out the “Little Land of Enchantment”. ...and a truly frightening collec- Hey, nobody ever writes much about it, but it’s unique, it’s there and it’s tion of the regular stuff and other very interesting. So, like enjoy as this is the last issue until April. good stuff Bob Murray

EXPLORER. Vol 10 No 1 Publisher: Íslandsvinir hf. Editor: Bob Murray; Iceland Explorer Magazine is published 4 times each Bæjarhraun 14, 220 Hafnarfjör›ur, Iceland. Design: 1, 2 og 3 ehf. www.12og3.is year and is distributed free of charge to visitors in Iceland. Tel: 510 9502. Fax: 565 5355. e-mail: [email protected] Iceland Explorer is at Visitor Centers, Hotels, The Explorer E-Mail: [email protected] Tel: 552 5625/896 3109 is also distributed to tour operators and subscribers in Editors E-mail: [email protected] Sales: Went fairly well the United States, United Kingdom, Denmark, Norway, Editor’s mobile phone: 868 1922 The Proof reader: Last seen surfing in Hawaii Germany and Japan and by the Icelandic Foreign Ministry Visit our website www.explorer.is Printed in Iceland by: Prentcó Hafnarfjor›ur to it´s offices worldwide. Iceland Explorer is also available Circulation: 8.000 copies. Lithos by: 1, 2 og 3 ehf. on-line and can be downloaded in it’s entirety. No reproduction in whole or in part is permitted without Cover Photo: Iceland in Full Bloom Views expressed are those of the writers and not the express written consent of the publisher, the editor, Cover Photos By: Just about Everyone necessarily those of any other agency or person. Iceland the mail room or the janitor. Other Photos: Magnus Oskarsson Explorer only accepts advertising it deems appropriate. Violators will be shot where it’ll hurt.

Welcome to the Mid Atlantic Travel Seminar page 2 page 3 Mid-Winter / Early Spring – 2007

A closeup and personal look at all the little tidbits of Information that come to light by themselves or we bring out of the dark since our last issue

JEEPS DON’T FLOAT: ...or so a couple of folks found out when they decided to wind their way up to and on the Vatnajokull Glacier, Iceland’s largest towards Grimsvatn (site of the volcano) Crossing a pond of sorts we’d have to say in the area close by (a short cut) the weight of the jeeps and the thickness of the ice were not a match made in heaven. Normally this time of year it would be, but when on the pond a resounding crack was heard round the area and the next thing were the jeeps in an icy cold car wash.....along with their drivers. OOOPS !!

THINGS YOU SHOULD NEVER SAY TO THE NICE POLICEMAN: Sometimes you just got to wonder where people come up with the things they come up with. Seems that during the start of the “holidays,” Reykjavik police gave chase to a car traveling on one of the main roads at high speed. With bright blues and reds flashing the pursuers noted that the pursuee was not terribly interested in stopping, obviously being on a mission to get somewhere in a big hurry. He was finally stopped and pulled over by Reykjavik’s finest. When they basically asked “where’s the fire” the driver surprised even them with his reasoning and excuse. The driver said he was on his ROCKET SCIENCE: way to the liquor store and absolutely had to get there before it closed. Iceland apparently has joined the “Race to Space”...well at least two He didn’t make it. enterprising hobbyists have, and they got it right the very first try.. Their six foot rocket (with no name) left the launching pad in a small safe area of the Reykjanes (southwest peninsula) with style and class, soared to a height of just over 3,600 feet in 15 seconds and slowly floated to earth again attached to a parachute which deployed on command at the end of the launch.

ATM TO GO: ?? It’s not the first time it’s been tried somewhere in the world, but it is a first time for Iceland. Here however, it was a bit different. Now we can’t be sure whether two would be thieves were trying to unsuccessfully withdraw money from this particular ATM or not in downtown Reykjavik, but at some point they decided to take the entire 660 pound machine. It’s not that they didn’t have proper tools for the job, they did not have SUGARCUBES MELT THE ICE IN ANY tools for the job. Still, they managed somehow to get it rolling to COMEBACK CONCERT: the front door of the bank from its location. It was there the bank’s After being essentially “on ice” for many years as a collective group, alarm went off, so they fled. That was probably the most intelligent part the Sugarcubes complete with Bjork, the first Icelandic band to gain of the attempt. However, without any tools at all for the job, why must world attention, melted the ice on Friday night November 17th with a we believe their fingerprints are all over their attempted handiwork. Oh, complete reunion, one-time only concert. The audience, which ran the there is also one other minor problem they might have, very soon. The spectrum from young to old and punk to classic soon was in tune with bank’s security camera videotaped the entire proceeding. Gives a whole the six member band in perfect harmony. Needless to say, a great time new meaning to the word moron doesn’t it? was had by all.

page 4 page 5 WANTED: ANOTHER FOOD FIGHT: So, the “survey” results are in and they have found that the prices of food in Iceland are an average of 62% higher here than in the European Union countries. OUCH !! What I do know from experience is that the food prices in places like Bonus or Kronan even Netto many times (lim- ited hours of operation) seem to be closer to reasonable more often than not with loss leaders sometimes making a trip to them more of a must than not. Then there are the others, who, when not having specials for this or that range from very high to outrageous to rediculos. In the grand scheme of things, being open until nine or midnight or 24-hours costs big time if you don’t shop before 7PM. I harken back nearly two years HORSE SPA: for the GREAT FOOD FIGHT of 2005 when milk on one day was actuallyt It was just a matter of time. It had to happen, and it has. Horses in FREE and Apples and many other fruits were less than TWO Kronur a training, the rugged and graceful Icelandic horse that is, now have their pound...( like 3 cents ) Bread got to like 12 Kronur a loaf (15 cents ) and own SPA of sorts to go to when being trained. you could fill a shopping cart for less than 1,000 kronur ($14.00 ). It was This is at the farm, Asakot in southern Iceland. Almost on the heels two glorious weeks and 10 more pounds of this announcement, another horse pool has now been opened in Reykjavik. Swimming and training horses in rivers and oceans is a 4000 year old method used by the Romans. The Spa concept is new. This allows the horses to train and gain strength without straining any muscles and works beautifully. At any rate, after their training “swim” these horses at the farm Asakot, can relax under a warming lamp...no kidding.

WHAT’S THIS WHITE STUFF ?? WHERE’S MORE WHITE STUFF ?? After a glorious early winter day, albiet cold, on Saturday, November 30 ROCK, COMES TO REYKJAVIK: 18th, a mostly clear sky and the promise of a fascinating display of the In what can ONLY be seen as GENIUS, a local insurance company Northern Lights that evening, the late afternoon forecast called for a built and sponsored a skating rink right in the middle of what is known change to light snow or flurries that evening as the clouds rolled in. The as the old town, Ingolf’s Square in downtown Reykjavik. Like many other “flurries and light snow” started about 11 PM as the wind picked up things in Iceland, ites a perfect smaller version of the skating rink at 30 rapidly. On Sunday morning, folks awoke to these “flurries” piled nearly Rockefeller Plaza in New York. Youth Hockey, free skating for the young nine inches high with drifts of three to four feet...on my stairs anyway. kids and the older young kids, even those my age prevailed over the Winter had indeed arrived. First measurable snow November 19th, Christmas season. Then, just like the Christmas Lads that head for the 2006. Since then, only threats, heavy skies and an inch there and 2-3 hills and the mountains, one at a time beginning December 25th, so too inches here, still less only about 16 inches ALL WINTER. Great Northern did this idea, we think way before it’s time. Light shows though...on clear nights. Enjoy a little Luxury

Laugavegur 22a • 101 Reykjavík Tel. 511 4666 • 511 4665 page 4 page 5 A Truly “Grand” Hotel

There certainly is no doubt by anyone that has been here, nor That is changing. Over the last several years queen and king anyone contemplating coming here for a visit, that “surfs” the size beds have been added to newer properties being built to web for information, that Reykjavik, and Iceland for that matter, handle the ever increasing visitor count and many hotels have is truly modern 21st century city and country in every aspect. remodeled to include more space and newer bedding simply We always like to feature “new” things from events to restau- to stay in the competition. The Grand Hotel has been a clear rants to buildings happening in Iceland that just keep making it leader all during this time with spacious, modern rooms and a great place for a vacation. That is about to be proven once again in just over a months time with the opening of perhaps the grandest “GRAND” Hotel of them all...so far. The Reykjavik Grand hotel has been around for awhile. Decades ago it was “born” as believe it or not, a Holiday Inn, the chain known “round the world.” For any number of reasons, one of which was the total yearly count of visitors to Iceland perhaps the most prevalent, way back then, it simply didn’t work out to expectations. But, the hotel remained. The beauty of that perhaps was the “American style” of the rooms, mainly the size of them compared to what is known as European standard, which in some cases can be considerably smaller, even though very comfortable and functioinal in all aspects. page 6 perhaps most importantly, personnel from the General Manager access, iron and ironing board and more. There will be two to the chambermaid completely trained in and constantly “Presidential Suites” at the top of the towers. For now, seeing practicing superior customer service. That speaks volumes will be believing along with spectacular views. When finished, anywhere around the world...and it speaks loudly in Iceland as there will be a total of 14 meeting and conference rooms. There well, especially now that more and more people every year give will also be two new reception and banquet rooms. Iceland a “try” as a vacation destination. Just judging from the Finally, The new Grand Hotel will feature the absolute very numbers at the tour company Iceland Explorer, that publishes latest in new technology and will be the FIRST hotel in the world this magazine, many now return, some more than once. free of electromagnetic pollution, completely and totally free of This new Grand Hotel, will feature the addition of two, 14- harmonics. floor towers, that will house a total of 209 new rooms. The Therefore, it’s no secret that if your looking for the newest, hotel then will be the largest in Reykjavik overall with a total the best, and a truly “Grand Hotel” while it will most probably of 313 rooms. There will be (see the photos) a “grand” new remain a four-star property, it will be as close to a five star as lobby and atrium that connects everything. Additionally, there one can possibly get.. This new Grand hotel in Reykjavik, will will be a Grand Spa with everything one might need or want truly be, a “grand hotel”. for wellness and well-being to C M Y CM MY CY CMY K include a completely modern- ized fitness room, massage and beauty treatment areas, a sauna, steam bath, jacuzzi and seawa- ter tub. The hairdresser will be just across the way from the grand spa with a new look and One free drink at the much more space. Icebar after dinner The rooms (see photo exam- SURELY THE COOLEST BAR IN TOWN Valid for max two persons ple) will be large and spacious, beautifully appointed with heat- ed tiled bathroom floors, twin, queen and king-size beds as requested, coffee and tea maker THE ICEBAR -6° in every room along with cable and pay TV, high speed internet

page 7 Touched by an Angel In nearly 40 years of conducting inter- views and doing stories, I have learned; There are so many stories never told, that should have been. There are many interviews that resulted in stories that should never have been told. Then, every so often an interview results in a story that MUST be told . This is one of those stories Bob Murrey

We met for lunch at behind many of the contestants that all to often simply never Caruso’s, in downtown get told apart from what the world sees on TV. That was the Reykjavik, a favorite of mine idea for this story. In this case, some four billion people watched and as it turns out, 2005, around the world. Who was this Miss World a favorite of hers as well. really? What was it really like to not only compete, but also to So the setting was right. In win, reign, travel and represent this competition and the country those very first few seconds of Iceland to the world for an entire year? of this first meeting, I found As it turns out, I ran across this soon to be Miss World, a most pleasant, extremely unknowingly, very briefly before she actually left for the com- well grounded, polite and petition. We never met but I got a wave through the gate at the very thoughtful person. NATO Base one afternoon as I was leaving after visiting friends There were 110 countries there. You see Unnur Birna was “once upon a time” an Icelandic and areas represented in the policeman…OK, a police person. She took part in a special Miss World 2005 competition. summer training program, where 60 recruits started and only Just to get there and com- 15 finished the course. At that time she was in fact pete, you had to win the top spot in your country. Therefore in I did not know that, as I had not followed this competition but I this worldwide competition, you had to be a winner, just to “get do remember chuckling to myself as I got this wave through the there.” I wanted to do this interview for many reasons. First and gate. My, my, I thought, these Icelandic Police are getting better foremost, Iceland a country of just over 300,000 people has had every day. She worked at both the NATO gate on occasion and three Miss World’s in the space of 20 years, 1985 – 2005. That also at the International airport at Keflavik. In her stint “on the is more than anyone else. That is more than any other country road” as a police officer a couple of young residents in the local in the world. Not bad. Iceland had and has bragging rights. area, pulled over for a possible DUI found themselves getting Secondly, there is always a story, many extremely interesting arrested, by Miss Iceland. They were sober enough to recognize page 8 who she was. They thought it was quite the thing; the courts, we understand, did not treat them so nicely. This police officer, had a short career. Touched She was scheduled to leave for the Miss World competition. But, I needed to know what made her want to compete, even by an Angel for the title of Miss Iceland in the first place. There had to be a reason, there always is. As it turns out, one reason was almost as a dare, the other one, was very, very special indeed. You see, Unnur Birna’s mother, Unnur Steinsson, was also a Miss Iceland and competed in the Miss World competition several years ago. She finished in fourth place overall. So this mother daughter team started trading barbs in a con- Miss Poland 2004 with Unnur Birna. versation, a dare if you will, that if she decided to get into the competition she would simply have to of those elegant dresses she had designed. It was not so much do better than mom did. Unnur Birna was at that time, not even about competing, certainly not about winning. It was about considering entering this or any competition. The Miss Iceland being there. The rest is history. competition organizers certainly wanted her to compete. They But what was this competition and the year that followed called two years in a row asking if she would. It was in late 2004 really like? Well Unnur’s promise to her grandmother had been that the decision was made. It was made out of love, respect honored. She entered the Miss Iceland pageant, wore one of and a tribute to her grandmother. Unnur Birna’s grandmother those elegant gowns, and even better, became Miss Iceland. was a lady by the name of Jórunn Karlsdóttir. That alone was a very special tribute indeed. Now she was off She was an elegant dress designer and in fact designed many to Miss World. There were 109 other competitors, like Unnur of the dresses for the Miss Iceland competition for many years. Birna all winners in there own right. Mom had finished in 4th Just after Christmas 2004, Unnur’s grandmother was felled by place overall. This was not going to be a hill to climb; it was a stroke and passed away just after the New Year, 2005. While going to be more like an Icelandic mountain. But she certainly visiting her grandmother in the hospital, the decision to compete held her own with the looks, the poise, and being well grounded, was finalized. she was ready. Unnur Birna promised her grandmother that she would com- Naturally one question we must ask is what were her pete in the Miss Iceland pageant, most especially to wear one thoughts the same seconds when they said and Miss World, 2005…Iceland. Well in those moments, there were six and then there were three and her name had not been called. She told me that she didn’t even hear Julia Morley, the mistress of ceremonies, make the announcement because by that time everything was a basic blur. Then she noticed everyone was looking at her and they were helping her to the chair reserved for Miss World, 2005. She mentioned it still hadn’t really become reality until the next day. She remembers waking up the next morning and see- ing the Miss World crown on the night table. Then she realized. In the year that followed there was a considerable amount of travel and events that as Miss World she was naturally required to attend, but it wasn’t as hectic as she thought it might be other than occasionally when right there. She did get to spend a few moments at “home base” right here in Iceland. Some things were planned way in advance; others were on relatively It helps to be Superman - Two Lois Lanes short notice.

page 9 She is a soccer (football) fan. Of course in Iceland, who isn’t? Unnur Birna’s favorite activity to do when at home is horseback riding. My sense is that she would rather be out on the range, than home at the range, but I’ll bet she’s an excellent cook too. My sense is that whatever it is she decides to do, she just sets her mind to it and does it well. Naturally, there will be many Miss World’s to come, hopefully, probably more from Iceland with the world’s most beautiful women. That said, with all her experiences Unnur had during her 10 months as Miss World I asked her to give a little advice to anyone, certainly from Iceland that might want to consider get- ting into the Miss Iceland contest, and of course upon winning it, compete in Miss World. Unnur said in her opinion, the most important aspects had to be, first, understand that competing (as in any competition) is not easy, it is tough. She said most importantly keep your wits about you, have your feet firmly planted on the ground and most importantly, be your natural self. She told me that being Miss Iceland and then going to and becoming Miss World was an amazing experience she will never forget. For my part, being able to sit down with her and simply talk in a nice relaxed setting was one of the most pleasant expe- riences in many years of doing interviews of many types. I found her thoughtful, very real and honest. She gave seri- ous thought to every question, every follow-up question and answered every one of them. She truly was and will always be a very real ambassador for Iceland. One thing I do know. She certainly accomplished her goal once she decided to get into the competition. She got to wear one of her grandmothers beautiful gowns as she had promised her grandmother she would, She became Miss Iceland, and then went on and won the bet with her mom, becoming Miss World. But I think she had an edge. That was her grandmother looking down and smiling. Undoubtedly, she is very pleased and very proud.

However, all those aspects of what had been a plan for her life had she not won, were quite naturally in a matter of seconds, on hold. In the year that followed, she was in China twice, visited the UK, Wales, Brazil, Poland, Sweden, Greece and the USA. Naturally, I immediately thought the USA trip had to be either New York or LA. Not the case at all. Unnur Birna’s USA adventure took her to IOWA for a week with Emma Samms, Jason Cook, from Day’s of Our Lives, and Superman, Brandon Boothe. The work was on a telethon for a children’s hospital. In 24-hours, she said, they were able to raise 3.6 MILLION dollars. She said of all the trips, which were all exciting, if she had to pick one she would go with Iowa as in addition to the telethon she got to visit a bit with the actual children they were helping. Second she added, was probably Brazil as she got to attend the World Cup soccer match between Brazil and . Oddly enough, that match was held in Berlin, Germany, another favorite stop.

page 10 Well, the Weather Outside “was” ...not bad at all really

So here are the sunrise and sunset tables from today through the next edition of the Explorer scheduled for early May. See how fast the daylight increases. About an hour every two weeks.

DAY & DATE: SUNRISE: SUNSET: Mon, Feb 5th, 2007 10:00 AM 5:30 PM Valentines Day, 2007 9:30 AM 6:00 PM Wed, Feb, 28th, 2007 8:40 AM 6:48 PM Fri, Mar 9th, 2007 8:10 AM 7:15 PM Mon, Mar 26th, 2007 7:10 AM 8:05 PM Good Friday Apr 6th 6:30 AM 8:35 PM Sun, Apr 15th, 2007 6:00 AM 9:03 PM Mon, Apr 30th, 2007 5:07 AM 9:50 PM Sat, May 5th, 2007 4:50 AM 10:06 PM

Well, here we are, February once again (it’s happens every So, as you can see from the figures above, in three short year) and those here in Iceland for business, conferences by months, from February 5th to May 5th we gain over 5 hours on day, party animals by night, pleasure, (trying to ski mostly) or at Sunrise and just over 4 & ½ hours on Sunset for a total of 9 & ½ the travel show, are being pleasantly surprised by warmer than hours. Put away the skis and get out the golf clubs.. Again, it’s they ever thought possible temperatures, well we hope they are hard to say what the actual weather will be since this magazine Last year, it was even better. But, there is, (was predicted) a lack is like a week and a half older from going to the designer to hit- of snow, good for those walking around Reykjavik bad for those ting the streets. It HAS snowed every single month of the year trying to wax up the skis or the snowboards. in Iceland...obviously just a flake here and their in the summer Last February was the warmest in 80 years. It’s too soon months, but it does get your attention. By the same token the to tell just yet what this February will be. The days are getting temperatures were close to 60°F just last February when they longer by seven minutes, three on one side, four on the other SHOULD be about 30°F colder.Want Cold and Snow ??? Go to and spring is in the air, unless of course it snows....heavily... New Hamshire’s White Mountains. Want great touring weather then forget everything I just said. We already got one “surprise” here YEAR ROUND ?? Well, Iceland IS the place to be...no kid- This first of the winter on November 19th, last year. Flurries ding !!! here are the official stats. Just remember with weather predicted, eight inches fell. Then January happened...COLD and in iceland...ANYTHING GOES !! SNOWY. But still less than normal at about 16 total inches ALL WINTER.. MONTH: FEBRUARY MARCH APRIL

Ave Temp +33°F or + 1°C 33°F or +1° C 38°F or + 3° C Max Temp +60°F or + 16°C 54°F or + 12°C 57°F or + 14°C Min Temp + 1°F or - 17°C + 4°F or - 15°C 6°F or - 14°C Ave Wind 17 Kts or 20 Mph 16 Kts or 18 Mph 12 Kts or 13 Mph Max Wind 95 Kts or 106 Mph 93 Kts or 104 Mph 68 Kts or 77 Mph Ave rain 4.3 Inches 4.3 Inches 3.5 Inches Max Rain 12.4 Inches 16.8 Inches 6.0 Inches Ave Snow 14 Inches 13 Inches 6.0 Inches Max Snow 55 Inches 50 Inches 25 Inches The Odds are that Iceland will be anywhere near the maxi- mum amounts of snow that fell since weather records have been kept are almost non-existent ...unless of course they aren’t ENJOY !!

page 11 fiingholtsstræti 1 • Tel.: 562 7335 • Fax: 561 7334 • E-mail: [email protected] Open Mon-Thur 11.30 - 23.00 Fri-Sat 11.30 - 23.30 • Sundays 17.00 - 23.00

page 12 page 13 Reykjavíkurvegur 72 • 220 Hafnarfjordur • Tel. 540 9700 Fax 540 9701 • www.bphotels.is

page 12 page 13 Exploring Restaurants

This is part two of a three part series in Explorer concern- ing “Restaurants in Reykjavik and Beyond” This particular REYKJAVÍK edition since we are dealing with the Mid-Atlantic Travel Seminar in February will contain BOTH a few in the “cool capital” and a few out and about around the country. I mentioned in the last article, (copies still available by the way and downloadable from the internet in living color) that it was so hard to believe perhaps but we still do get an e-mail or two every year from people that goes something like this....actually a total of three in 2006 that goes some- thing like this. “I am planning a trip to Iceland this year and was wondering what kind of food you all eat up there and would I like it” No, I am not kidding. So, I thought it might be helpful if we did RED CHILI RESTAURANTS: a little article on just a few of the 170-odd sit down restaurants Well, as restaurants for people visiting Iceland “on a budget”, we do have here in Reykjavik and hundreds more around the this one, like the Grillhouse or the Geysir Bistro and Bar is an country, to inform, educate and to allevieate any fears about the excellent find. “possibility” of only exotic viking fare or whatever that might be There are two of them now in Reykjavik, one right downtown on offer. Oh yes, and we’ll have a little fun doing it. adjacent to the hotel Borg and the town square and another at Now one thing for sure. Every restaurant on this list has been Laugavegur 176. I went to the one downtown to check it out. I attended by either myself, a staff member from Iceland Explorer ordered the Fish and Chips and was very pleasantly surprised. It or a client that has commented on it, in the last year. Although comes with a battered fish in ginger and steak fries, a favorite. they all should (ahem !!) and many have, some as you will note Plenty of food, excellent price, great service and one more place have not to this point anyway, advertized in this magazine. That to add to the list of meals on a budget for good food at great is not a criteria for recommendation. OK, here goes. prices page 14 page 15 of the evening is the “Viking Initiation” where three lucky folks, usually from a crowd of 50 to 500 are selected at random, or by their travel agent to join the honored loyal order of the Vikings. I’ll say no more other than “ya just got to “do it” once when you come to Iceland. About 5,500 per person for the feast.

KAFFI REYKJAVIK: Located right downtown across the street from the Plaza Hotel, this is the “home of the famous “Ice Bar” a good place to wan- der in either before of after dinner actually. Rightly so, there is RAUDARÁ STEAK HOUSE: a “cover charge” to get into the Ice Bar if you are not having I have eaten here, a number of times and I have never been dinner at the restaurant, as it should be. They also give you disappointed. To be honest it had been some time between the “cover” so that you won’t freeze to death while in there. visits and my last was in late September, 2006. The place was Definately a conversation piece and gives a whole new meaning packed, always a good indication and on that subject, reserva- to “cocktails on ice” OK, on to dinner and meals. To be honest tions are a real good idea even in the “shoulder season” and I have never had a sit down, order off the menu meal, but I especially on weekends. have been to several of the buffets held there. Those are excel- Oh, by the way, the translation is the Red River Steak House, lent and one immediately came to mind that was held during They are located in the Hlemmur area adjacent to the hotel the Mid-Atlantic Seminar this past year which was superior.. Reykjavik and the Foss hotel Lind, oddly enough on a street Another measure might be their annual Christmas buffet which called Raðaurastig, (Red River Path) It’s a bit on the expensive is “sold out” on most nights so that says a lot as well. They side if your doing lamb or steak but well worth it . On my last also hold the traditional Viking “Thorrablot” one of a very few trip I went for the 300 gram (about ten and a half ounce steak restaurants that still do. Moderate in prices on average, plenty in a pepper sauce. Folks, to die for, is the best thing I can say. of dining space and private rooms for private parties. I’d have done two, maybe three, (I am a steak person if it’s done correctly) but a client insisted I join him for dinner, so I only did one. I guess I have been there half a dozen times since it opened. It, in a word is GREAT !! Priced on the high side of moderate, but again, well worth it

VIKING VILLAGE RESTAURANT: GAFL INN: Now this restaurant is in the town of the “elves” in Hafnarfjordur, This is another restaurant just outside on the north end of about 6 miles from the capital city.. Called Fjorukrainn,, I have Hafnarfjordur right on the main road to the airport, the highway done breakfast, lunch and the Viking Feast here on a number known as Reykjanesbraut. Now when you first walk in you think, of occassions. Now for the recor we will talk about the most oh what a nice little coffeehouse, but that is exactly what it’s famous of the meals whch is the Viking Feast. This is like for, coffee, light lunches etc during the day. Just up about four “dinner theatre” with a Viking Attitude. It all starts with a beer, or five stairs is a beautifully appointed dining room, (and their always a good sign in my playbook, especially when I go with are private rooms too, for private groups). This is a low to mod- my wife who doesn’t drink beer. So, I naturally offer my assist- erately priced family owned for years restaurant with superior ance on that score. At any rate, starters are pickled types of food, no matter what you order, with EVERY customer treated fish, Salmon, mackeral, haddock and various other things. The like a special guest of the house. This restaurant is Iceland at main course is LAMB of course, and excellent. Dessert is usually it’s very best. An attentive, homemade atmosphere is it’s call- Blueberry skyr (an Icelandic product) and a shot of Black Death, ing card. The food is superior, always, and prices as a rule are (Brennavin the Icelandic Schnapps. All the while you are eating as excellent for singles, couples, celebrations, no matter what dinner you are being entertained by Viking decendants, from and everything you request is doable, no matter what. Highly that afternoon as a rule, with traditional songs. The highlight recommended. page 14 page 15 OUT AND ABOUT

eating experiences there. She said, both times, excellent, even superior. This restaurant sits on top a hill and overlooks the north Atlantic ocean in southern Iceland about 60 kilometers, roughly , 36 miles from Reykjavik and about 6 miles from the RAIN RESTAURANT – Keflavik town of Selfoss. Fish is obviously the specialty and my collegue Right in the middle of the town, this formal sit down restaurant said the fish soup to the fish medly is out of this world. All the has been around for a number of years. I have never man- while, especially with a prevailing southeast to southwest wind, aged dinner there but have been there several times for lunch if the wind is up the surf is up and the pounding waves of the and have always been very pleased by both the menu, which North Atlantic are both mesmerizing and romantic all in the changes often and prices, which also change often. However, same breath. Moderate to moderately high, depending on your excellent service, plenty of food for what would be considered order is the price range. lunch and very unique combinations were what I noticed. Fresh homemade bread, even with lunch and a well rounded menu usually featuring at least one meat course, two or three a fish courses, a poultry (chicken) and an Icelandic course at a minimum. Superior panoramic view from the dining room really adds to the entire experience Highly recommended for a more formal atmosphere for dinner if you are spending time in the Keflavik area or even if you just want something perfect for a romantic evening out SYSTRA KAFFI This great little restaurant is closer to the Glacier Lagoon than to Reykjavik, in the town of Kirkubaejarklauster...yep, ! say that fast more than once if you dare. I have been here three times and each time, I have had essentially the very same thing when stopping for lunch on tour...the hamburger to order and fries. A must stop if you are out that way. Simple is beautifully done... and they have all sorts of dinners and lunches as well. I also managed to sneak a piece of the homemade Pizza. EXCELLENT !! Prices, low as a rule to moderately low if your really, really hungry. Excellent soups too...but to be honest, in my 16 years here Icelandic soups are in a superior class of their own...eve- LANGBEST – Keflavik rywhere. Just off highway One in the town of Klauster...that’s This is a diner type restaurant, small cozy, quick and friendly what everyone calls it...anyway. service and excellent food. High on my list of the menu would be the pizza (made to order) and any of the hamburger selections. You know, that this will be the second of a three part series on Priced right and once again generous portions, this restaurant RESTAURANTS. The third installment will take a look at restau- is “perfect” for a quick meal anytime in Keflavik or just before rants around ICELAND up North in the town of Akureyri, where I heading to the international airport for the afternoon flights am getting hungry just thinking about them. People do go there stateside. If your spending time in the Reykjanes region and too. We’ll also visit other places and must see towns in iceland traveling on a budget, this is the place for great food, excellent as well. Don’t miss a word. prices. Frankly it’s hard to find a bad meal anywhere or at anyplace in Iceland. I found one, it took 4 years to do it, they are now long HAFIÐ BLÁA gone, that’s just how it is and we’ll explain that in the next issue. A-ha !! One restaurant I have not been to in Iceland, how odd is The bottom line is that some folks I know have come to Iceland, that so I had to rely on a collegue to tell me all about their TWO JUST FOR THE FOOD. No kidding !! WELCOME.

page 16 page 17 everything in almost perfect harmony. Everyone lives south of the airport in the southern and western part of the island. In the summer, Air Iceland offers regularly scheduled flights to Grimsey island so people can go and say they have “crossed the true Arctic Circle” Another airline, MYFLUG with it’s headquarters in Lake Myvatn about 60 miles from Akureyri, will take you there anytime. Eight in the airplane will cost you about 9,500 per person for the round trip and the tour. If you’ve got the time on your trip, we give this outpost north Little Island of Iceland a must see in the summer. Go on across the Arctic of Enchantment Circle. Visit Grimsey. It sits alone and unassuming just to the northeast of the Eyjar Fjord that surrounds and protects the named capital of the north, Akureyri. It’s just over 24 miles from the outer land point of Iceland. It rises to a high point of just over 340 feet at it’s highest point and has an area of about 5.3 Kilometers square. Flying to the island from Akureyri takes about 25 minutes, the three times weekly boat cruise in the Summer months, just over three hours. More people each year discover it, nobody writes much about it, so we will. There are just about 80 very friendly, year-round residents on this island from it’s high population point of 103 in 1996. More puffins than people visit in the summer. When they throw a dinner party there, it’s probably at the island’s community center, and everybody goes. You don’t hear it mentioned all that often, but it has a very unique property about it. It is a place where the sun never rises in the winter, and the sun never sets in the summer. It is also the place you can visit and actually cross the Arctic Circle. That is just a few feet to the right of the arriving air terminal where there are two gates, one marked “IN” from the back and one marked “OUT” in the front where you’d go to board your aircraft. It’s just over three thousand miles to New York from Grimsey Island, a lot less to the North Pole. Yet, the climate of this island is quite mild for actually” being” on the Arctic Circle. In the winter nights where the Northern Lights flash on most every clear night the temperature might fall just a couple of degrees below freezing on the Fareinheit scale and in the light of constant summer, close to 50’s average is the norm. Not too much ARCTIC about that now is there. The inhabitants play a lot of chess in their free time, indeed there are some chess-masters. Their living is derived mainly from the sea and fisheries Austurstræti 4 • Reykjavík and some limited agriculture. There is a great little harbor, Tel.: 551 3509 • e-mail: [email protected] and Grimsey Island is a perfect example of everyone and page 16 page 17 First stop - Last stop

The mountain Keilir Excellent food - Great service!

Pizzas, Steaks, Hamburgers Sandwiches, Fish ... and much more

Hafnargata 62 • 230 Keflavík • Tel: 421 4777 E-mail: [email protected] • www.gi.is/langbest page 18 page 19 ICELANDAIR INTERNATIONAL INVITATIONAL August 24-26, 2007 Another great golf adventure for “Children with Special Needs” This will be the first year of a planned annual event for this Icelandair Charity where the “players” not only get to come to Iceland and play golf, stay in the luxurious four-star Icelandair Nordica hotel, play a lot of golf in just 24-hours AND bathe in the world famous Blue Lagoon, but the participants can actu- ally all do it for FREE. This tournament brings you to Iceland 2007 from Europe in mid-afternoon, Friday, August 24th and from the USA, (Boston departure) in the late evening that same day. Saturday morning brings the beginning of a 54-hole marathon golf tournament, 18-holes at three of Iceland’s most beautiful and challenging courses. An awards dinner follows that evening followed by a Sunday departure after a swim and lunch in the World Famous Blue Lagoon before departing Iceland. There are ONLY 50 spaces available for players outside of Iceland. Foreign players will be teamed up with an Icelandic Golfer. Golfers or their corporate sponsors must pledge a mini- mum pre-deposited guarantee of $2,500 USD, to compete. The entire trip for the player from the Icelandair gateway is then free. CONTACT: [email protected] Mr. Barry Walmsley the Icelandair representative, for more information and to sign up or contact [email protected] in Iceland by e-mail for more informa- tion on this very special event.

ARCTIC OPEN June 20.–24.

Played on the World’s “Certified” Northern most 18-Hole SCHOOL GROUPS: NATURE; Golf Course in the Midnight Sun, this tournament is a must GEOGRAPHY & HISTORY for every golfer, everywhere that likes to compete, have September – April 2007 / 2008 great fun doing it and actually play a round at MIDNIGHT in mild temperatures, very near the Arctic Circle. In 2007 / 2008 Iceland Explorer will begin a series of very Special individual or group packages are available for European special Nature, Geography and History tours for US School players exclusively from ICELAND EXPLORER by contacting groups outside of the “high season” at very special rates for [email protected] to get started. school groups of 18-40 persons and their teachers. There are In the United States, players should contact BRITANNIA GOLF by varying tour lengths from 5-8 days specifically designed for e-mailing [email protected] EACH school as to the studies they wish to focus on. A totally Complete, individually handcrafted packages for the tournament “hands on” once in a lifetime experience for any student that only or even longer packages are available to try out some of will feature among other things, waterfalls, geysers, museums, Iceland’s other 60 challenging courses are available. Sign-ups the birthplace of Leif Eriksson, volcanoes, gardens, geothermal have already started and will end on a guaranteed basis on April pools and power plants, a walk on a glacier, a cruise on a glacier 20th. After that date, space available only can be booked on a lagoon snow mobiling, horseback riding on the famous Icelandic “will call” basis. horse, even whale watching, all depending on what might be This is one of those rare, “must do” once in a lifetime opportuni- requested by the school and the actual time of year. Contact ties for every golfer. Iceland Explorer by e-mail for all inquiries. page 18 page 19 Whale of a True tall “Tail” to Tell You Lads ...and every bit of it is true.

In the seven years I’ve been doing this, I’ve done a story or two about whale watching in Iceland and how thrilling it can be most trips. But, I’ve never done a story on what it is we go “in search of” and watch when we find it.. The activity of whale watching is NOT unique to Iceland . They do it up and down both coasts of the United States and a lot of other places in the world as well, when of course the whales are around. Whales are smart. Many of them spend their summers in the waters surrounding Iceland. In many other places around the world, you “might” see one perhaps two species in a give area. But in Iceland, “anything goes” From 10 miles off the coast of Reykjavik to 1000 yards off the coast of Keflavik and Sandgerdi (southwest Iceland near the international airport ) Minke’s are fairly common, indeed an estmated 28,000+, according to the sceintific estimates, come to Icelandic waters in the summer months. Orca’s are out there, dolphins play and perform daily. In Husavik, anything from a (in context) mini- Minke to the unbelieveable Blue Whale, the largest mammal on earth is possible. It is only fitting then, that what has been billed by visitors as the greatest whale museum on earth, should be located there. This Museum has been around about as long as this magazine, from 1997 in both cases. It is a non-profit, educational center, completely dedicated to ocean enviroment and marine wildlife (whales, dolphins etc) Words from those that have visited there since it opened are all the same, mag- nificent, breath-taking, great, entertaining and wonderful have all been expressed many times. It is the perfect place to go when in Husavik, a town everyone should visit, and learn about what you can then actually go see, at sea in just a block or two’s walk and a few miles on a boat.. I makes for a perfect day well spent, fascinating to children and adults as well. The total area of the museum is 1,400 square meters, beautifully thought through, perfectly arranged, and a delight to see. The cost, which all goes right back into the museum for staff and exhibits is 500 Ikr for Adults and 200 Ikr for kids 6-14 years. In the Summer they are open from 9:00 AM to 9:00 PM for you to plan around an actual Whale Watching adventure if you like. Oh, there is even a “Yellow submarine” there for kids...they didn’t say what the oldest kid age might be...but since that’s Beatles, I must qualify. page 20 page 21 ARCTIC OPEN; Hot Flashes BIG YEAR FOR FOREIGN Early Spring – 2007 PLAYERS: It looks like a banner year for the 21st annual Arctic Open Golf Hey !! when you get my age Tournament to be played once again on the CERTIFIED World’s ...these things happen northernmost 18-hole Golf Course in Akureyri, Iceland from June 20th to June 24th. Sign-ups from foreign players are coming in STRANGERS ON THE SHORE: early and in excellent numbers for this years competition. SO !! you want to catch the “big one” and you’re not really fond This tournament is “just plain fun” and the dates this year make of small boats in big oceans with heavy seas. Well we have round one played on the years longest day when the sunset in learned of a new activity in Iceland where you can now go ocean Akureyri is at 1:08 AM and it rises again at 1:22 AM, just 14 casting with a new company right from shore. The best part is minutes later. In other words there is no dark. that these trips, that will start in April of 2007 will be limited to 10 persons per specific trip. The contact information for the There is a scratch and Net division for men, ladies and seniors moment that we will update as we learn more about this new (like me) Play is conducted under Stableford Points and rules. concept is to e-mail [email protected] . Our understand- INTERESTED ? ing is that many are inquiring and several have already signed In the USA contact [email protected] and in Europe on to yet another new activity while here in Iceland, the place contact [email protected] or visit either websites for Britannia where if you can “think it” we can find it and you can do it here Golf or Iceland Explorer for all the details. in Iceland.

Strandgata 55 220 Hafnarfjordur Tel.: 565-1213 hotel Fax: 565-1891 [email protected] viking www.fjorukrain.is

restaurant restaurant thehottub the Cave Viking Fjaran page 20 page 21 EUROVISION SONG 2007 TO BE SELECTED ON FEBRUARY 17th: After a most unusual year with Eurovision 2006...and we’ll leave it at that, Iceland has been holding and will hold the grand semi-final on February 17th to determine WHO will sing and wing their way to Finland in May, to represent Iceland in the 2007 Eurovision Song Contest. There were 24 songs competing but by the time you read this, the winner may have been selected. However, for the record, a couple of old friends showed up with songs this year and while I wrote this in mid January, I have to think they will do well. The first was a 20+ year acquaintence by the name of Erikur Hauksson, who participated in Iceland’s very first entry in 1986 with his group called ICY. They finished a politically correct 16th. The song was far better than that. Then there is another 20+ year acquaintence in Richard Scobie HAS AN ICELANDIC COMPANY FOUND another acquaintence of the 80’s, also back in Iceland. Well A CURE IN COD FOR BIRD FLU ??: we’ll all know on February 17th, who will get the nod.. This story hit the local press just as this magazine went to Shows aired on RUV Television here on successive Saturday press. nights before our magazine was released so we don’t know With all the talk of the “possible epidemic” of “unimaginable who won yet either. So, the show that everyone says they never proportions” one hears from time to time especially on alarmist watch ...well, Iceland’s pizza companies tell us otherwise. type TV stations mainly and unfortunately in the US, it appears Now they have five nights instead of one to sell thousands of that a potential cure of the H5N1 Virus (AKA Bird Flu) may have pizzas. been found. The Icelandic company Ensimtaekni h.f. recently took part in an experiment in London. The enzyme, known as penzim, is extracted from the intes- tines of the cod by the company and this enzyme was being developed for use in beauty products and possibly some types of medicines. An experiment was conducted in due course on the H5N1 strain and the exciting news is that within 5 minutes, the isolated fish enzyme killed 99% of the H5N1 viruses. The bio-chemist, Jon Bragi Bjarnason as well as the CEO of the company are very excited about the results of the test. Testing continues for possible cures for other maladys in this whole new range of possibilities. This is all the news available about this at the moment, but great promise is in the offing and we will keep you posted.

Photos: Soffia Karen Magnúsdóttir page 22 page 23 Winter Pool Parties in ICELAND With geothermal energy readily available from almost every square inch of Iceland, not only is this “natural” power source, a blessing for the pocketbook, but has nearly unlimited uses. One would be the heating of the pools, all over Iceland. So , what does that mean for the traveler coming to this magnificent place in the shoulder or “off season”. Well, it means that you can go for a swim, OUTDOORS in all these winter months. Add to that a variety of “hot pots” of varying temperatures at most every pool, sand you have a very unique “only in Iceland” phenomena that can be enjoyed by everyone. Sure, you don’t waste anytime from hitting the outside to diving in the pool or immersing yourself in the hot tub, but that too is a good thing. Health and well-being are always available year round. Not bad foir a country with the name ICELAND, is it? Well, it’s true. DID I mention the “beach”? Well we also have a beach...yes, a real beach with real sand not far from the Reykjavik airport that is “officially closed” in the winter since it’s a bit tough lying around on the beach on a blanket even though a special area of this “beach” the water is also geothermally heated. People do take a lot of photos there however. So if a great relaxing ener- getic swim is in your travel plans, why not try Iceland? Yes you read that correctly ICELAND. We have everything you can think of right here and waiting for you year-round. OK, everybody into the pool.

SWIMMING IS FUN

OPENING HOURS: ADULTS Weekdays: 6:30–22:30 Single ticket: 280 kr. Weekends: 8:00–22:00 10 ticket card: 2.000 kr. CHILDREN Opening hours of swimming pools may vary. Single ticket: 120 kr. For further information, log on to www.itr.is. 10 ticket card: 800 kr.

Enjoy Swimming

www.itr.is ı tel.: 411 5000

page 22 page 23 ROSSOPOMODORO Great food Low prices

A Little bit of Excellent family Restaurant Southern Italy in Reykjavik

Laugavegur 40a • 101 Reykjavík • Tel: 561 0500 Aðalstræti 2 • 101 Reykjavík • Tel: 517 4300

Open every night from 8:00 PM Your group traveling in Iceland ? Need a ride? Call us from your Reykjavik hotel 577-4230 accepting ALL major credit cards INCLUDING Diners & American Express