SEPTEMBER 2015

Japan’s number one English language magazine TRAVEL SPECIAL GET LOST IN AUTUMN AKITA Once More Into the North

KAGOSHIMA Adventuring Around Old Satsuma

GET READY TO RUMBLE UFC Action Hits the City

ALSO: Photographer Tomohiro Muda Fixes His Lens on the Elements, A Weekend MBA by Way of Montreal, and People,www.tokyoweekender.com Parties, &SEPTEMBER Places 2015 SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 CONTENTS 30

KAGOSHIMA SPECIAL Step into the slow life down in Kyushu’s southernmost prefecture

10 12 26

UFC: FIGHT NIGHT AKITA TRAVEL SPECIAL KASHIMA ARTS The Super Arena is getting ready Think you’ve seen all of Akita? Guess Photographer Tomohiro Muda captures to rumble: here’s what to watch for again, fair reader the raw power of the elements

6 The Guide 43 Avan Classico 50 Previews Hot looks for cooling times, pastries well Bringing the timeless elegance of 80s retro video games go on a rampage, worth the queue, and a very dirty Martini Neapolitan tailoring to Marvel goes small, and...BILL MURRAY! 28 Kagami Crystal 44 McGill MBA Japan 52 Agenda Generations of technical perfection have This business program is developing Yoyogi saves some of its best festas for last, made this glassware the choice of royalty leaders for the global economy Tokyo goes jazzy, and a full week of breakfast 34 Medipolis Health Tourism 46 People, Parties, Places 54 Back in the Day The new wave in cancer therapy: particle Junko Koshino & co. get dressed up in their A cartoonist’s guide to those moments when beam treatment in resort settings best and a U.N.’s worth of national days you realize you’ve gone native

www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 THIS MONTH IN THE WEEKENDER

a prefecture that seems to have an SEPTEMBER 2015 embarrassment of riches, proves that SEPTEMBER 2015 there are cultural experiences still to

Japan’s number one English language magazine be mined in those fields of autumn. On our tour, we drop in on a community festival that combines the grace of TRAVEL SPECIAL courtly dance with the brutality of GET LOST IN AUTUMN group combat in Kakunodate, set foot Publisher BC Media Group AKITA in the primeval beech forest of the Chairman Ray Pedersen Once More Into the North Shirakami Sanchi World Heritage Site, and gaze up at one of the most Executive Producer Asi Rinestine spectacular fireworks displays in all of Editor Alec Jordan KAGOSHIMA Japan. There are a few detours along Art Director Liam Ramshaw Adventuring Around Old Satsuma the way, but we’ll leave those for you

Media Director Kotaro Toda to find. Account Executives Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa GET READY TO RUMBLE Then it’s a 180, and we head UFC Action Hits the City southward to Kyushu’s Kagoshima Media Consultants Mary Rudow Prefecture. Satsuma, as the land is still Sophia Bai ALSO: Photographer Tomohiro Muda Fixes His Lens on the Elements, A Weekend MBA by Way of Montreal, and People,www.tokyoweekender.com Parties, &SEPTEMBER Places 2015 Chris Zajko affectionately known, has played a he worst of the season’s significant role in Japanese history, and Marketing Ingrid Dubreuil sweat and heat has while it no longer plays as strong an Yumi Idomoto T passed, and another influence on politics as it did in the summer has (mostly) run Society Bill Hersey days, it remains a place of inspiration: a out of steam. As the weather’s finally land of fresh air, breathtaking views, Lead Writer Matthew Hernon turning sensible again, it’s time to and strong characters―Buddhist think about doing something other Editorial Associates Sarah Custen priests, shochu makers, and luxury Kyle Mullin than cooling off when you’ve got ryokan owners alike. Natalie Jacobsen time off. There’s a proper, five-day- As always, thanks for your Yuna Uemaru long weekend on its way later in the readership, enjoy your “Silver Week,” month, and what better way to spend Film Christopher O’Keeffe and we’ll see you in October―when we’ll it than on the road? be bearing a bit more editorial content. IT Manager Nick Adams With that thought in mind, Weekender has put together a travel extravaganza for this month’s edition: we hope it inspires you to hit the road, and hit it well. First off is another visit to EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 our neighbors in the north. Akita, Editor Published monthly at the Regency Shinsaka Building, 5th floor 8-5-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 (03) 6666-4924 / (03) 6432-9229 (fax) [email protected]

To subscribe to the Tokyo Weekender, please call (03) 6666-4924 or email: [email protected]

For ad sales inquiries, please call (03) 6666-4924 or email: [email protected] WRITERS WANTED www.tokyoweekender.com Tokyo Weekender is looking for a few good writers. If Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors you’ve got a travel story you want to share, a gift for the are not necessarily those of the publisher written word, or have a unique take on life in Tokyo, we’d like to hear from you. To join our team of freelancers, please send us an email at [email protected]

Published by BC Media Group www.bulbouscell.com

September 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com Yokoso, welcome to Japan

Where the living is easy

With the Premier, Residence, and Apartments brands of serviced apartment in different prime locations in Tokyo, Oakwood has a home and lifestyle for you.

Discover more about Oakwood living in Aoyama, Akasaka, Ariake, Azabujyuban, Tokyo Midtown, Roppongi, Shirokane and at Tokyo Station (early 2016).

For details and reservations, please visit our website at oakwoodasia.com

BANGALORE BEIJING CHENGDU GUANGZHOU HANGZHOU HYDERABAD INCHEON JAKARTA MANILA MUMBAI PUNE TOKYO the guide

DVF PLAYSUIT A fun alternative to the classic Diane von Furstenberg iconic wrap dress, this bold-patterned playsuit is anoth- er staple to add to your wardrobe to get through yet another month (or two…) of summer. Just like the DVF wrap dresses, the V-neck top and cinched waist are flattering on most figures (even pregnant ones!), but it stops a bit shorter than the dress. The shorts are comfortable enough for a daytime picnic, and the piece will make a flawless transition into autumn, when you can wear it with opaque tights … and a glass of bubbly in hand. www.katespade.com

KATE SPADE IPHONE CASE GUERLAIN Be flashy yet classy with this mir- TERRACOTTA rored gold iPhone case, exclusive- This cult classic is a must-have item ly, and appropriately, available at for your beauty bag. The bronzing the Ginza Kate Spade branch (you powder works magically to enhance can also order it online if the posh that summer glow you got from district isn’t on your path). The days at the beach, and keep a hint discreet writing says “Center of at- of sunshine for the dreary months tention,” so it’s perfect for the gal ahead. The powder is lightweight who wants to make a not-so-subtle and hydrating, and all you need are statement. Like all other Kate a few swipes on the cheeks (try a “3” Spade accessories, it’s pretty with- pattern on each side of your face), as out being too cutesy, and it’s the well as a dab on the nose, chin and ideal stylish companion to your forehead. You can even skip the blush most-used material possession. and mascara, and mix and match the www.shopbop.com hues to suit your preference. www.guerlain.com

DOMINIQUE ANSEL BAKERY et ready to queue, as the opening of this particular bakery generated so Gmuch buzz that enthusiasts were actually sleeping outside the night before its grand opening. Dominique Ansel’s claim to fame is the Cronut, a decadent croissant and doughnut hybrid created back in 2013. If you’re not convinced you should wait in line for a pastry, you might be tempted by their cookie shots, frozen s’mores, miniature meringues or the Mr Roboto Japan exclusive, a melon pan filled with caramel black truffle custard. We want all of it. Address: 5-7-14, Jingumae, -ku, Web: dominiqueanseljapan.com/en

SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com G-SHOCK WATCH Fashionable, functional and affordable, this watch is a perfect combination of sporty and stylish, Something for the weekend...A and a go-to item for when you cocktail guide for the most actually need something practical discerning of drinkers that can survive a bit of impact. The gold accents add that little bit his month we pay a visit to ’s of bling we all need in our lives, West End to sample the cocktail that has yet it’s subtle enough so you don’t taken the world by storm over the past look too “accessorized.” It comes few years. Rumoured to be a favourite in an array of tones, so make sure Tof the Dutchess of Cambridge, it is now a staple you check out the entire collection, of nearly all drinking establishments of any note. but we hand-picked this one for Originally created by famed London mixologist you, as it’s one of the best items Douglas Ankar, the Porn Star Martini has certainly you’ll add to any look this season. made its mark on the global cocktail scene. As a rule I find it best to avoid garishly colour- www.g-shock.jp ed and overly sweet cocktails. These types of tipples are no doubt great for hen parties and the suchlike, but no gentleman worth his salt wants to be seen ordering a bright pink Martini. However, on a recent trip back to London I found myself in a West End drinking establish- ment with a young lady friend and noticed that the clientele were knocking back Porn Star Mar- tinis like it was their last night on earth. Curiosity got the better of me so I asked my acquaintance to ALEXANDER WANG order us up a couple of the fruity beverages. A couple of sips in and I could already see STRIPE GEL PRINT TEE what all the fuss was about. A cheeky twist on Every wardrobe needs an Alexander Wang the classic Martini, a flash of vanilla with a sharp tee. There, we said it. Sure, the price tag burst of passion fruit, all finished off with a sip of is a bit steep for a simple T-shirt, but you champagne. The Porn Star Martini is definitely a will literally be living (and sleeping) in it tipple for the fairer sex, but after the third round for the next decade. The AW garments are I barely even cared that I looked like a looked like soft, they fit perfectly, and they’re so good an extra from Sex and the City. Bottoms up!

they’ll make you forget how much you Method: initially spent on them. You can go for a Pour vodka, Passoa, vanilla sugar syrup and lime basic white, grey or black classic tee, but juice into a mixer and add the pulp of one passion we like this striped one, which also comes fruit. Shake with ice and strain into a chilled coupe in a hooded sweater version. glass. Garnish with the pulp of remaining passion www.alexanderwang.com fruit. Serve the champagne on the side in a chilled glass and sip alternatively from each.

Ingredients: - 1 ½ fresh passion fruits LE LABO FRAGRANCE - 2 shots of vanilla infused Ketel One vodka - ½ shot of Passoa liqueur – SANTAL 33 - ½ shot of vanilla sugar syrup Walk away from the commercial, - ½ shot of freshly squeezed lime juice overbearing designer cologne smells - 1 shots of champagne and opt instead for a unique blend from master perfumer Le Labo, which lets you create your own signature smell. If you can, stop by their storefront in Daikanyama to sniff around and mix up your perfect potion. If you’re not too con- fident about mixing and matching, you can pick up one of their fragrant concoctions, such as the smokey Santal 33, or Tokyo’s own smell-in- a-bottle, a woodsy essence called Gaiac 10. lelabofragrances.com

www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com EXPAT LIFE | WEEKENDER | 9

KRAV MAGA IN TOKYO

NEW GYM OPEN IN AKASAKA GET FIGHTING FIT WITH THE ISRAELI SELF-DEFENSE SYSTEM!

Roppongi Tokyo, Minato-ku, Roppongi 3-14-7, Arrow Building 4F Akasaka Tokyo, Minato-ku, Akasaka 3-7-13, Akasaka HM Building B1

CONTACT: 03 - 6432 - 9794 WWW.MAGAGYM.COM/EN

www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 Roy Nelson (right) takes a swing at at last year’s “Fight Night: Japan”

ON SEPTEMBER 27TH, THE ULTIMATE FIGHTING CHAMPIONSHIP RETURNS TO JAPAN FOR “UFC FIGHT NIGHT: NELSON VS. BARNETT”

oy “Big Country” Nelson is no stranger to Japan, having featured in last year’s showdown against Mark Hunt at Saitama Super Arena. Josh Barnett, however, will be making his first appear- ance at the stadium this month, with every intention of making his presence felt. But there is something unique about this Fight Night besides Rthe fact that it’ll be held in Japan. Leading up to the big event is a reality show involving Japanese fighters who are competing to have their dreams become reality. Throughout the TV series, Nelson and Barnett have been coaching four Japanese fighters each, who compete against each other to find a set of finalists that will appear as part of a showpiece fight on September 27 before the main event. The winner will also be awarded a UFC contract and be listed on the roster. There’s a lot at stake for both the Japanese competitors and the inter- national high profile visitors. The fighters from Japan have had mixed -ex

SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com periences in different fighting organizations but nearly none in the UFC, so this chance Come September to be plucked from relative obscurity and win a contract with the biggest MMA organi- 27, two heavyweights zation on the planet isn’t something to be taken lightly. will collide and we Equally, Barnett and Nelson have plenty will rebuild the lost to prove, with their reputations at stake and emotions riding high. art of MMA in Japan. Despite this being his first encounter as a part of a UFC Japan event, saying Barnett My plan is to bring is confident would be an understatement, “I Lauren Mikolas feel like there isn’t anything an opponent is back MMA into Japan Having made an appearance at a recent going to show me that I haven’t seen or can Tokyo press event in the lead up to UFC counter. I have won world titles in the past as it once was Fight Night Japan, Lauren Mikolas (wife of and continue to do so now. I am ready for any U.S. baseballer, Miles Mikolas, now playing challenge.” in Japan as pitcher for the Yomiuri Giants) Barnett’s training comprises of Brazilian has been announced—as of time of print- Jiu-Jitsu, wrestling and Jiu-Jitsu under train- ing—as the UFC’s newest Octagon Girl, set ers Erik Paulson and Rigan Machado. He is to make her debut at Saitama Super Arena known to subdue his opponents with a variety on September 27. of chokes and holds, but isn’t afraid to get The glamorous 27-year-old has called Japan into a striking brawl if need be. Now ranked home since her husband signed with the Giants last year. Since then, much of the Jap- number 6 in the division—even anese public have become quite enamored though his last fight was a loss in December with her natural beauty and her enthusiastic 2013—he still sits a little higher than Nelson, support of baseball in Japan. Her public pro- who is currently ranked 11th. Barnett weighs file has has also been bolstered thanks to her in at 113 kg and stands 190 cm, and fights out increasingly popular social media accounts, of California, USA. On the other side of the Oc- fashionable appearances at public events, tagon, Nelson tips the scales at 119 kg, stands and health and beauty blog, Fearless Charm. 182 cm and fights out of the state of Nevada. Could this launch her into a career in the Nelson is not known for having a particu- Japanese entertainment industry? larly strong ground game, so Barnett will be focusing on counteracting other assets of his Kyoji Horiguchi celebrates his victory over Jon repertoire—“His ground game won’t be any out of The ), who is known as Delos Reyes at last year’s “Fight Night: Japan” match for me. It’s his right overhand I have to an impressive technical fighter due to his watch for. I have been watching a lot of videos background as a kickboxer, was originally involved with throughout the process. to develop an even greater strategy against slated to go up against the Brazilian-born, “Standing up as an example of what that attack... I will be ready!” -based . Due to I believe a pro fighter should be is very For Barnett, September 27’s event is unforeseen injuries, Carneiro will now be important to me. I hope all the pro fighters about much more than who wins the fights. replaced by the Jamaican-born, New York- in Japan come out to the fight to stand tall He is also dedicated to raising the profile of based . alongside me and raise up the image of the sport and invested in the careers of the Despite making a relatively speedy turn- MMA fighters around the world.” younger Japanese fighters that he’s been around after defeating Oluwale Bamgbose Nelson echoes a similar sentiment about at an August 8 UFC Fight Night in Nashville, ensuring the wide reach and longevity of Hall has an impressive recent record: he’s MMA action in Japan. “Come September 27, won four of his last five clashes and will no two heavyweights will collide and we will doubt prove to be a worthy contender for rebuild the lost art of MMA in Japan. My Mousasi, who has also won two consecutive plan is to bring back MMA into Japan as it fights to kick off his 2015 campaign. once was.” With heavyweight brawlers Roy Nelson In addition to the main showdown and Josh Barnett topping the bill, along with between Nelson and a co-headline bout between Barnett, the night and Uriah Hall and the live will also play host finale of the “Road to UFC: Japan” TV series, to a similarly high Saitama Super Arena will be shaking with profile middleweight energy and excitement on September 27. bout that’s expect- ed to bring with BOOK YOUR TICKETS NOW! it plenty of excite- The event is to be held at the Saitama Super ment. The UFC’s Arena on Sunday, September 27. Tickets can seventh-ranked mid- now be purchased at dleweight, Gegard ufc.tokyoweekender.com Mousasi (fighting

Josh Barnett (left) lands an uppercut on Frank Mir

www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 CELEBRATING BEAUTY AND THE BATTLE Kakunodate’s late-summer matsuri is a festival that begins with grace and ends with a celebration of a community’s fierce fighting spirit

t starts off as a parade, a procession movement and performance are far more of floats and music. Young girls valued than a pretty face. in stand on the hikiyama On September 7, each of Kakunodate’s floats, performing the slow, grace- neighborhoods unveils its long hikiyama ful moves of old dances of the float. Pulled by men, women, and chil- INorth. Stepping lightly on the small stage dren—some barely tall enough to hold at the front of the float, the dancers move the ropes—the groups make their way to the melody of flutes and the rhythm through the streets of Kakunodate’s his- of the drums. On its own, the music feels toric town. At the center of each seven-ton energetic, almost raucous. Channeled wooden cart is a diorama, some with regal through the movements on stage though, samurai figures, others with flashy war- the sound becomes more controlled, re- riors straight out of a kabuki drama. The fined and subdued. It is the kind of scene more elaborate are topped with monsters that makes one understand how the idea and dragons from stories long ago. But of Akita bijin—Akita beauties—began. unlike many of Tohoku’s more famous Outdated as the idea may seem today, the festivals like Aomori’s Nebuta Matsuri, the restraint and grace of the dancers seem to dioramas here are only a small part of the reflect an important part of Kakunodate’s float. First and foremost, the Kakunodate Photos by Katsuhiko Sato history and tradition that the festival is Matsuri is a performance. Nearly half the trying to preserve. The focus now though float is made up of a stage at the front. On is on understated elegance—the beauty of its way to Kakunodate’s Shinmei Shrine, AKITA | TRAVEL SPECIAL | 13 Through the night the hikiyama teams roam the streets, challenging and smashing into one another, cheers and the dull crack of collisions echoing through Kakunodate’s old samurai town each float will make numerous stops to perform for spectators and judges. The float’s two groups of dancers—one of young women, the other children—take turns performing as the float bearers have a seat on the ground to watch and cheer them on. The following day, there is more dancing and music as the floats parade that are much, much older. the town together today, in a celebration through the streets again. Floats that meet September 9, the final night of the of its feudal past. In a time when so many in the street negotiate for the right of way, festival, is the night of hikiyama butsu- people leave home for the big city, fewer with one team laboriously navigating their ke—the battle of the floats. Hikiyama children are born, and many towns are float to let the other pass. The energy is Butsuke is not an organized challenge; it left with increasingly aging , festive and lively, but decidedly peaceful, is much more organic and primal than Kakunodate has managed to do more than even courteous. that. As the evening wears on, and floats just preserve a tradition. It has made it a For the first two days, it would be easy meet in the street, negotiations for right vibrant, relevant part of life for the com- to think that the Kakunodate Matsuri is of way become strained. When discus- munity. It is something that those of us in an exception to Japan’s bravado-filled sions break down, when neither team the big city, with so many festivals seem- festivals, with each neighborhood trying is willing to give way, they battle. After ingly focused on spectators rather than to out “macho” the others. And for nearly minutes of chanting, waving lanterns community, would do well to experience. two and a half days it is. But on the final and posturing, the collision is swift. The day of the festival things begin to change. two heavy floats ram into each other at The first thing one notices is that, after speed, the front ends colliding and lifting two days of being the focus of the festival, into the air. Like a samurai duel of old, the dancers have left the stage. The next the build up draws out the tension, and is that children are no longer pulling the deciding blow comes in the blink of the floats. Mostly though, the energy is an eye. After untangling the floats, the different. Without the need to accompany victor can proceed, the loser having to the grace of the dancers, the music and turn and retreat. Through the night the chanting takes on a harsher edge. It is as if hikiyama teams roam the streets, chal- a painstakingly developed tradition of arts lenging and smashing into one another, and culture has been cast aside, revealing cheers and the dull crack of collisions something much more basic, but beautiful echoing through Kakunodate’s old samu- in its own way. While the first two days of rai town. the festival preserve 350 years of tradi- Throughout the festival—both its tion, the final night brings out feelings graceful beginnings and wild climax—it is surprising how young the Kakunodate Matsuri feels. It is not just the dancers. Walking the streets during the festival, one sees float bearers, musicians, and onlookers Seeing the Kakunodate Matsuri of all ages. The number The Kakunodate Matsuri takes place Septem- of school-aged children ber 7–9 every year. Kakunodate Station is on and teenagers makes one the Akita Shinkansen Line, just 3 hours from wonder if schools simply Tokyo. The town itself, one of Japan’s many close for the festival. It is “little Kyotos,” has a charming historic neigh- clear how important the borhood with beautifully preserved samurai event is to the whole com- manors, some of which have stood throughout munity, and how it brings Kakunodate’s 390-year history. The Taste of Akita Three restaurants in Tokyo are serving up the rustic flavors of northern cuisine: Here is what’s on the menu

Yurihonjo Sakaba his restaurant special- izes in fare originating T from Yurihonjo City, on the southern sea side of Akita Prefecture. Yurihonjo City is famous for nearby Mt. Chokai and the rich farmlands that surround it, which are the source of the colorful, Akita-grown produce that is delivered directly to the restaurant fresh every morning. Don’t miss the traditional “lion dancing” show that takes place every night at 8 pm.

Yurihonjyosi UMAIMONO Sakaba - 2-4-6 Kanda Nishikicho, isariya-ginza Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 03-6895-5544 marutomisuisan.jpn.com/yurihonjosakaba/ full range of Akita’s regional cuisines can A be found on the menu of this impressively decorated Ginza eatery. You can be sure that your meal will be authen- tic and comprehensive—not only with regard to food, but also with drinks: the well stocked establishment features an expansive collection of sake from around the whole region as well. Whether you’re dining alone, with a friend, or in a big group, all options are catered for: bar counter seats and private rooms are available.

Akita isariyasakaba Ginzabunten - 6F Ginza Seiwa Building No.3, 1-5-6 Shinbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-3574-1161 marutomisuisan.jpn.com/isariya-ginza

Nda-nda

njoy food from each of the 25 cities and villages in Akita Prefecture right here Ein Tokyo, just three minutes’ walk from Hamamatsu Station. With everything from the well-known traditional dishes right through to a selection of more adventurous and rare local delicacies, you definitely won’t be disappointed with the choices available. As with any great Akita meal, sake is also plentiful. And it’s not just any sake—the only varieties served here are ranked as junmai-shu, meaning that they have been produced without added alcohol or sugar.

NdaNda Akita25sicyouson Umaimonosakaba - B1F Koshin Building, 1-16-7 Shibadaimon, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-6870-7788 marutomisuisan.jpn.com/nda-nda/ AKITA | TRAVEL SPECIAL | 15

The cobalt blue waters of Lake Tazawa are otherworldly enough to have you imagining dragons in their depths

them—so much, in fact, that the gods took The Land of offense at her greed and vanity. They trans- formed her into a water dragon and charged her with the grim responsibility of guarding the lake for the rest of time. Her tale has been Akita’s Samurai given golden tribute in the form of a statue that sits off Tazawa’s southwest shore. During the warmer months, it is possible Stately residences of warriors gone by and a legendary to rent kayaks or canoes and go out paddling lake await travelers to this region around the lake. It is an excellent way to appreciate the scenery, and the cobalt blue waters are otherworldly enough to have you nown as the “Little ” of by the Hiyoke (Fire Shield), the merchant imagining dragons in their depths. There are Tohoku, Kakunodate is a historical district isn’t quite as popular for tourists; pleasant trails around Tazawa, and to the east castle village famed for its samurai however, it is still a charming area full of of the lake you can find the Tazawako Ski Area houses, merchant district and intriguing buildings. The Ando Miso Soy if you plan to hit the slopes later in the year. Kweeping cherry trees in the spring. Sauce Brewery, in particular, is highly Founded in 1620 by the Ashina Family, recommended. The brick building is not HUNTSMEN’S CUISINE the area has remained largely unchanged only beautifully preserved, but is also a One dish that you should be sure to try while ever since. A number of samurai residences great place to pick up souvenirs. Visitors are you are in Senboku has its origins in the remain intact and while most are privately allowed to enter for free and sample some rustic sustenance that the samurai would eat owned by descendants, some are open to the of the local miso and tsukemono pickles on on their trips. The Satake family of public. The most impressive of them is the their tatami-mat flooring. Kakunodate fame were well known for enjoy- Aoyagi House, an extensive manor featuring Kakunodate is also a hanami hot spot ing meat from their hunt quickly after taking artwork and weapons that have been passed with around a million tourists flocking to it down. Okaribayaki—literally, “cooked on down through generations. The Ishiguro the region during the Sakura Festival in the hunting field”—is a dish that relies on the House is also worth visiting for its collection Golden Week to see the cherry blossoms in simple flavors of quality ingredients. Tradi- of samurai armor and clothing. full bloom. Other festivals during the year tionally, it might have been prepared from Separated from the samurai quarter include the Sasara Dance Festival in sum- game animals, but now it is made with beef mer, the Shinmei, Yakushido, and Kakuno- or chicken, served with seasonal vegetables. date Yamabutsuke festivals in autumn The dish is given a particular kick with the and the Hiburi Kamakura (Fire and Snow addition of a special type of miso paste—san- Festival) in winter. sho miso. Flavored with a uniquely flavored Japanese pepper called sansho, this spicy THE LADY BY THE LAKE twist on the standard Japanese ingredient The city of Kakunodate is just one of the makes okaribayaki a dish to remember. appealing features of Akita’s Senboku re- gion. To the north lies the area around Lake GETTING THERE AND Tazawa. In addition to being Japan’s deepest GETTING AROUND lake, Tazawa is also the source of one of the Kakunodate and Tazawako are both reacha- region’s more colorful legends. As the story ble via the Akita Shinkansen. They are both goes, Tatsuko Hime was a beautiful girl who about a three-hour ride from Tokyo Station. lived close to the lake. She believed that its The Akita Nairiku Line is an excellent, and waters would make her even more lovely, scenic, means of travel if you are heading and so she drank far more than her fill of north from Kakunodate. STAGING A TIMELESS TRADITION The Warabi-za theatrical troupe breathes dramatic life into the ancient world of

ne of the best known theatrical end, the people would celebrate with their nation’s many traditions. Now, as more companies in Japan, Warabi-za ceremonies that were meant, in part, to foreign visitors come to visit, it is a place is also one of its most hard- ask the gods for good growing conditions where the whole world can experience working: made up of seven and a healthy crop, but also to bring those traditional forms of folk performance that different groups, the organiza- communities together, reaffirming their celebrate community ties across borders and Otion gives a total of 1200 performances each deep ties to one another as a new season’s across generations. year throughout Japan, including 250 shows challenges and rewards approached. a year for more than 60 years at its home in These are the experiences and For more information please check the official Senboku, Akita Prefecture. Founded in 1951, emotions that Warabi-za performances website: www.warabi.jp/english/ Warabi-za is recognized as one of Japan’s are meant to evoke, and in addition to top companies, alongside the Shiki Theatre the performances that guests can see at THE PLEASURES OF THE Company and the Takarazuka Revue, and the Warabi-za home theater, they can routinely gives performances overseas—in immerse themselves in an environment PASSING SEASONS the U.S., South America, Asia and through- that truly brings these traditions to life: the The area around the out Europe. Tazawako Art Village. Art Village is famous While Warabi-za occasionally performs The Art Village was built 20 years ago, for its blueberries, works by foreign playwrights, it is best inspired by the idea that visitors would and during the sum- known for its unique revivals of Japanese be able to share in a communal atmos- mer months, guests folk traditions—particularly the stories, phere like the ones that gave birth to the can pick blueberries songs, and dances of the people of Tohoku. traditions that the troupe brings to dra- fresh off the bush. These ancient rhythms and songs have their matic life. It’s an ambience that blends art Koyo—the changing origins in the work that people throughout commune and resort: it is a place where leaves of autumn— Japan have been doing for centuries. theater, music, and dance are cultivated, can be best seen at Whether it was in the fields of grain or thanks to invigorating and inclusive work- the nearby Daki-gaeri-keikoku. And in the the paddies, by the ocean or in the moun- shops where professional actors teach par- winter, the area around Tazawako is trans- tains, the work that people did came with ticipants how to play the taiko—Japanese formed into a wonderland of snowy white. a cadence. As villagers worked together to drums—and how to perform the region’s But throughout the year, there is an this rhythm, they would coordinate their traditional dances. And yet, it is a location attraction that guests keep returning for. movements, calling out in unison to give where visitors can savor the creature com- Tazawako Beer is the first brew that went each other strength and encouragement and forts of the region: Akita’s hearty cuisine into production in Akita—in 1997— and to reinforce the bonds of teamwork during and its soothing hot springs. its Alt variety has taken home a gold prize at the World Beer Awards for four years labor that was often hard, dangerous and When Warabi-za was founded, it was straight. exhausting. with the idea that it would help members And when these labors came to an of Japanese society learn to appreciate SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com Dedicated to Good Taste

Two masters of their own particular paths find common ground

o single crop is more connected to Japanese Sato Takekaze culture than rice. It dictates the yearly rhythm Tadahiro Akita born of festivals and the way Chairman Sumo Wrestler Nthat land has been used for centuries. Perhaps fitting for a country that places Nouyu Ltd. high esteem on effort, rice can also be an extraordinarily labor-intensive plant to grow. This is something that Tadahiro Sato, Chairman of Akita Nouyu Kai (Nouyu Ltd.) deeply understands. Like any difficult yet rewarding path—be it Ken-no-michi (Journey of the Sword, or the way of Japan’s renowned samurai) or Sumo-no- michi (Journey of the Sumo), the road to becoming a master rice grower is a long one. Sato speaks of the word shuhari to describe his own progression: “Shuhari refers to the stages of learning and perfecting a skill, from the very beginning of practice to mastery. This traditional method of mastering a skill serves as a way for us to strive for perfection and brings a unique way of thinking to our daily lives.” Of course, within this new way of thinking, there’s still plenty of room for fun and flavor, as Sato and Takekaze, an Akita-born sumo wrestler found out when they met up to enjoy the “fruits” of Nouyu Kai’s labor: heaping bowls of rice. As Takekaze said after his first bite, “you can taste the quality, and the pride.”

Nouyu Ltd.

Representative Director Sato Tadahiro 5-25, Higashi, Ogata-mura Minamiakita County, Akita, 010-0442, Japan

FreeDial 0120-45-2368

www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 Made in Akita

vast variety of traditional hand-crafted, an art form in and of itself. (The results of this artistry bespoke products have been lovingly made are flavorful, and make for warm sustenance during for many generations by the people of Japan’s the long Tohoku winters...) This collective love of Tohoku region. creativity is given most colorful life in the prefecture’s ANo more obvious is this than in Akita Prefecture, where many vibrant festivals, which range from brilliant fire- the abundance of natural resources helps inspire this works competitions and celebrations of snow to grand creativity: the forests that cover the hills, mountains, processions of historical floats and good-spirited battles and flatlands are rich in lumber of all kinds, while the between villagers. fertile plains produce some of the finest rice in the coun- So whether you’re interested in kaba-zaiku (crafts try. Although the winters of this northern prefecture are made using the bark of the mountain cherry tree), harsh, they are an ideal time for practicing handicrafts, kokeshi (traditional wooden dolls originally made as and the folk of this proud prefecture have honed their children’s toys), itaya-zaiku (crafts made using strips craftmaking to a professional edge. One might say that from the trunks of young Itaya maple trees) or some this region is a unique artisanal mecca. of the most unique sake in the country, Akita could be Akita’s heritage of arts and crafts not only extends the place for you. We’ve taken a look at a few of our fa- across a variety of genres like textiles, woodwork, vorite Akita products and the companies behind them, ceramics and painting, but it also encompasses the tradi- to bring you even closer to the ingenious spirit of these tional practice of sake brewing, which is most definitely hearty people.

COFFEE BEAN CADDY —BIRD’S EYE KAZUKI BY TOMIOKA SHOTEN This sweet, soft-toned canister is made of a graceful grain material called “Bird’s Eye he town of Kakunodate in TEA CADDY—JOIN Maple,” complemented with chic patterns Akita is known for its black- These elegant, artful, stackable tea and colors. A true rarity, only 1 out of 2,000 walled residences, which caddies are made with wild cherry maple trees have this striking beaded grain, used to be the home of prom- bark, with magnets hidden inside which makes for a smooth and elegant Tinent samurai. It is also known for the both the top and the bottom of surface. rows and rows of wild cherry trees, or each caddy for stability. Each tiny Perfect for coffee beans or tea leaves, this yamazakura, that line its streets. It is caddy can hold up to 100g of tea jar holds up to 200g. Each jar is coated with the bark of these trees, and others that leaves. Eight unique borders offer a a moisture-proof, anti-drying and anti-bac- grow in the region, that are used for stunning contrast to the kaba bodies terial finish, to preserve your precious a handicraft that has been practiced in order to suit distinct tastes. Store coffee or tea collection, keeping it fresh in Akita for more than 230 years: different tea leaf varieties in each and full-flavored. kaba-zaiku. At Tomioka Shoten, the caddy, made of uniquely different time-honored tradition is blended with materials and colors, and enjoy your tomioka-shoten.co.jp/en/ modern aesthetics to create homeware tea according to your daily moods that is both beautiful and functional. and whims. TEA CADDY—BAND Akita’s wild cherry bark has been appreciated for many centuries for its beautiful texture and the unique craft techniques that it inspires—there are few materials quite as rare and vibrant. It’s especially known for tea cad- dies, for which its innate properties match its function perfectly: it naturally prevents contents from becoming too dry or too damp. A bold, colorful band updates the look, adding a modern spin to a classic craft, for timeless appeal.

SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com AKITA | TRAVEL SPECIAL | 19

Like many older brew- elements that helps Hinomaru’s sake stand eries and distilleries, out is the usage of small, 1.8-liter bottles to Hinomaru Jozo follows store and age the sake, as opposed to more traditions that date back common practice of storing and aging to when it was first found- sake in massive, 500 to 1000–liter barrels ed almost 330 years ago, at other breweries. There is no better in 1689. Something the example of Hinomaru’s quality nihonshu Hinomaru Brewery is than the Mansakuno Hana brand: named proud of is the usage of for the mansakuno flower and created to the “rising sun” image- commemorate a popular NHK TV drama ry, 200 years prior to that was set in Akita, it can be found at its official association restaurants around the world. An even with the Japanese more refined variety of this sake is flag and govern- the Mansakuno Hana Daiginjo, whose ment. The logo and beautiful pale gold color matches its name were created fruity aroma—like that of apples or by the feudal lead- pears. er of the region The Akita snow is a crucial indi- at the time: Lord rect ingredient: keeping the building Satake. cold and frosty creates a specific HINOMARU BREWERY But there flavor and texture known only to is more to a Hinomaru’s brand-name sake. A ot everyone enjoys long, distillery than a name and a logo. crisp, sweet, fruity winter taste harsh, snowy winters, but Their motto, coupling “quality first” dominates their flavor profiles, and the Hinomaru Jozo Sake with “challenging spirit,” reflects complements the famous sour pick- Brewery does. In the height the rigorous process involved in led vegetables of the north. Winter Nof the winter season, Hinomaru Jozo’s concocting the perfect sake mix. in Akita is suddenly much less cold touji (sake master) Ryoji Takahashi can Still to this day, everything is done when it’s paired with a bottle of be found with his hands buried deep by hand: the rice growing, harvest- sake from Hinomaru Jozo. in cold, mashed rice, preparing it for ing, mashing, steaming, transfer- fermentation. ring, and bottling. One of the key hinomaru-sake.com/english-top

flavors. One of the key examples of this SUZUKI SHUZO is the brewery’s Flying Pegasus Daiginjo Koshu. Only 300 bottles of the flagship In winter, Akita’s low temperatures, tion to the carefully selected ingredients, the product are made each year: its unique combined with its high humidity, result incredibly food-friendly product is perfected flavor is achieved by blending 3, 5 and 7 in a large amounts of snowfall, which in under the watchful eye of long-time touji year-old sakes, a process that mixes the turn purifies the air and creates the ideal Shigemasa Ishizawa, who ensures quality individual attributes of each to ensure conditions for sake brewing. Suzuki Shu- control measures are held to impeccably an incredibly complex and sought-after zoten (Hideyoshi) is an excellent exam- high standards. result. ple of a sake brewery that has taken full Aside from the widely recognized The brewery happily welcomes any- advantage of this environment. Founded high quality of their sake, Suzuki Shuzo is one from complete novices to seasoned in 1689 by Matsuemon Suzuki, it’s one of also known for its unique and interesting connoisseurs and provides an educational the oldest and best known sake houses and fun experience for not only in Akita, but throughout Japan. those looking to learn from According to stories passed down the family’s 300 years of through the 19 generations of the accumulated experience Suzuki family that have managed the and knowledge. facility, the name Hideyoshi was given to the brewery by the local lord Satake, who judged the Suzuki family’s sake to be the best quality in all of Akita. Now with a pride that spans more than three centuries, the Suzuki Shu- zoten sake house strives to live up to their formidable reputation by sourcing only the best ingredients. The extremely high quality of the locally grown rice they use yields a particularly smooth fla- vor with a typically long finish. In addi-

www.hideyoshi.co.jp/en/

www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 A GARDEN CITY THAT BLOOMS AT NIGHT

Daisen’s history has been cultivated by Japan’s national crop, but it has gained its fame from a far brighter blossom

ocated on the central plains of Akita well known for its nihonshu), the struggle be- Prefecture, the city of Daisen has gins. If the north side wins, a bumper crop is long been known as an agricultural predicted. If the south side takes the victory, powerhouse. In this part of the coun- the price for rice will go up—for a community Ltry, of course, means rice—almost that has depended on rice for its sustenance always the celebrated Akita Komachi. and success, it’s a battle that both sides win. One of the city’s more colorful traditions is tied to the production of Japan’s staple THE IKEDA FAMILY GARDEN crop. Held in winter, the Kariwano Tug-of- One of the three largest landowners in the War is a friendly struggle that divides the city entire Tohoku region, the Ikedas were a into north and south and pits the two sides prominent family in Akita for centuries, and against each other. On one of the city’s main made a strong influence on politics, economy, streets, the opposing sides take up either and culture in the region. During the Meiji end of a 10-ton, 65-meter-long rope made Period, Buntaro Ikeda, the 13th family head, from rice straw. Fueled by a healthy sense of was known for making major strides in im- competition and plenty of sake (Daisen is also proving the livelihoods of his workers and the

SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com AKITA | TRAVEL SPECIAL | 21

country rich.” bullets flying also found its way into applica- Also inspired tions much lovelier in nature, and not many by the desire years had passed before fireworks were to increase the used to mark great celebrations: apparently, agricultural and Tokugawa Ieyasu was treated to a fireworks cultural wealth display that he viewed from the heights of the of the region, his Edo Castle. son, Bunichiro Japan is known for refining techniques Ikeda, built a and technologies to their utmost, so it was massive public also not long before different pyrotechnicians library in the began devising their own fiery formulas, garden, with the making for new varieties of fireworks, from express purpose the humble sparkler to dazzling, night-light- of contributing ing skyrockets. These high flyers became the to the education main weapon in a series of battles waged of the region’s in the heavens—not with the intention of children. Fol- causing destruction on the ground below, lowing the end but with impressing those audiences looking of World War II, up. Victors would not win new lands or the enactment impressive titles, but instead would be able to tenant farmers who grew rice and other of land reforms allowed tenant farmers declare themselves the best fireworks makers crops on the land. He invested the family’s to buy their own land—perhaps not the in the land. fortunes into land improvement and kind of economic utopia that the Ikedas Daisen’s largest fireworks festival, the farming technology, which helped increase imagined, but it certainly provided a Omagari, takes place in August, when 18,000 social capital, welfare, and education. chance for local people to improve their skyrockets, launched by fireworks crews An old tale about Ikeda, which, apocry- lot. The garden is now held by the city of from around the country make the sky as phal or not, shows that he recognized the Daisen, and it is made open to the public bright as day. The firework maker’s art has potential of the rice grown on his land to for several months during the year. The improved drastically over the last hundred help his family, and the families of those garden will next be open this fall from years, and these short-lived illuminations around him, prosper. As the story goes, September 19 to November 8. are not just limited to a spectrum of colors: the rockets burst in a variety of shapes and patterns. But among long-time fans of these In addition to its rich agricultural production, nighttime displays, one old tradition has not changed: among the oohs and ahhs from the Daisen is one of the best places in Japan to feast crowd, you’ll also hear cries of “Tama-ya!” and “Kagi-ya!” These are the names of two of your eyes on flowers of fire Japan’s oldest fireworks companies, and their long history of excellence in this evanescent one of Ikeda’s friends asked him which of A LONG HISTORY OF LIGHTING art live on each time a viewer calls out after a his he was most proud of—he was UP THE NIGHT particularly brilliant display. While the time known to have a remarkable collection of In addition to its rich agricultural produc- for this year’s Omagari Festival has passed, the painstakingly shaped trees. By way of tion, Daisen is one of the best places in the Kamiokanangai Festival, which features answering the question, Ikeda grabbed a Japan to feast your eyes on flowers of fire, a bouquet that is nearly 7,000 fire flowers vase, thrust a handful of rice plants into it, or hanabi as they are known in Japanese. strong, will be held September 14. and displayed it to his lord friend, while Firework festivals are held throughout the reciting a poem that he composed on the year in the city. For more information: spot: “These treasure-grasses can make the Oddly enough, the history of fireworks daisenkankou.com/fireworks/calendar.html in Japan is far shorter than you’d expect it www.city.daisen.akita.jp/docs/ike- to be, given that its larger neighbor across dashiteien/2013110400095/ the sea had developed gunpowder and was already setting off fireworks displays by the 7th century. In fact, it is not recorded that the Japanese even saw the explosive black powder at work until the 13th century, when would-be invaders from Korea and used primi- tive firearms in war. The Japa- nese would only get their hands on gunpowder, and the guns that used it, through trade with the Portuguese in the middle of the 16th century. Japanese inventors quickly began work- ing on their own guns, but the powder that could send the

www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 Tomeyama Forest Natural Heritage Happo offers seaside views and easy access to pristine primeval forests

ocated in the Yamamoto District of deep valleys, unique plants and rare animals, Akita Prefecture, Happo is a tranquil it is an enchanting setting for hikers, tourists, and picturesque fishing village with photographers and nature lovers alike. very warm atmosphere, tasty local The continental glaciation that wiped out Ldishes, and some impressive views of the most of the world’s beech forests two million surrounding area. years ago didn’t occur in the northern region If you are looking to escape the hustle and of Japan, leaving Shirakami Sanchi as one bustle of the city and be at one with nature of the last natural beech forests in East then this is the place for you. With the cerule- Asia. The deciduous buna trees—which are an Sea of Japan on one side and the magnifi- resistant to extreme weather conditions—are cent Shirakami Sanchi area with its unspoiled best viewed in late spring, early summer and expanse of virgin forest on the other, it truly throughout autumn. The changing color of is an idyllic setting that will help you forget the leaves (koyo) in autumn is a particularly about the stresses and strains of everyday life. beautiful sight. One of the most attractive things about SHIRAKAMI SANCHI the area is that it has been kept sheltered The main appeal of Happo is undoubtedly from human influence and maintains its orig- its proximity to Shirakami Sanchi, a vast inal shape and charm. Much of the terrain mountain range (approx. 169.7 sq km) that is rugged and a little difficult to manage; yet View from From the Kanoura viewing platform straddles both Akita and Aomori Prefectures. this simply adds to its allure. It can be rare to Boasting primeval buna (Japanese beech) find such a place in Japan. In 1993 a section trees, crystal clear rivers, roaring waterfalls, of the forest was granted UNESCO World Her-

SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com Left: Shirataki Waterfall Below: Koiri River AKITA | TRAVEL SPECIAL | 23

itage status (entering the core zone requires a special permit which can be obtained by mail or in person) and it remains one of only four natural heritage sites in this country along with Yakushima in Kagoshima; Shire- toko in ; and the Ogasawara Islands Futatsumori, which offers a stunning van- or swimming. Those looking for some- in Tokyo. tage point that allows you to look out over thing more therapeutic should try Hata For those who don’t want to go to the an unobstructed swath of the ancient forest. Hata Kan, a luxurious hotel that boasts a trouble of getting a permit there are still On the way up, be sure to keep an eye out for soothing, colorless hot spring bath with plenty of places worth visiting outside the some of the wildlife: Shirakami Sanchi is an terrific views of the Sea of Japan. If that core zone. One definite must-see spot is the area where many animals roam, and plenty isn’t enough, there are also some fine din- Anmon Falls. It is actually the collective name of very rare birds can be found perching ing options at the resort. Happo favorites for three waterfalls along the Meya Valley among the trees. include marinated flatfish served over rice that starts with a 26-meter drop, followed by and abalone, served cooked or as sashimi. a 37-meter one, then finally a breathtaking BEYOND THE BEECH FOREST Nihon Shirakami Suisan, backed by the 42-meter drop at the apex. The trek along After a tough day of hiking or mountain local government, has been cultivating aba- the valley, which includes a number of other climbing in Shirakami Sanchi, you may lone in the area since 2011, and they can be spectacular sites on the way, can be done in want to relax and unwind by taking a stroll enjoyed in any season. There are several around two hours. The trail is not accessible around Happo. Quiet and slow-paced, it restaurants in town serving this delicacy in in winter. Trekking shoes are recommended. is a very pleasant village with a laid-back a variety of styles. Whichever trail you take in Shirakami atmosphere and a refreshing sea breeze. If Sanchi, you’re sure to find something that will pique your interest. There are scenic Shirakami Sanchi is an enchanting treasures all over the place, including the im- pressive Dairakyo Gorge and the picturesque setting for hikers, tourists, photographers Shirakami-dake. A real favorite amongst tourists is “Juniko” (12 Lakes): a great place and nature lovers alike to camp, hire a boat or enjoy an afternoon of fishing. Despite the name there are actually you are planning to rent a car we recom- THE GONO LINE 33 lakes, the most beautiful of which is the mend heading towards Kanoura early in Stretching along the Sea of Japan from mesmerizing Ao Ike (Blue Pond) with its sap- the evening. It is a wonderful spot to watch Higashi-Noshiro Station in Akita Prefecture phire-blue water. Near the entrance of Juniko the sun setting over the ocean. to Kawabe Station in Aomori Prefecture, is the colorful “Nihon Canyon,” another There is no golden sand, but there are the Gono local train often makes you feel as popular destination that is also known as the some nice beaches nearby. Takinoma is though you were traveling over the surface of Japanese miniature Grand Canyon. probably the pick of the bunch, especially the water. Those facing the windows on the For serious mountaineers there are a for tourists wanting to engage in some opposite side of the ocean have the stunning number of options, including the peak of water sports, such as snorkeling view of Shirakami Sanchi for much of the journey. The train stops near Juniko and other popular sites. Get off at Shirakami Station and stay in at the Hata Hata Kan ryokan. You can also stop by the Akita Shirakami Center, where you can enjoy the views and try your hand at cooking Akita cuisine. Running along the Gono Line three times a day is the Resort Shirakami. The ideal train for sightseers, it features extra-large windows, an observation lounge and reclining seats. It slows down when it goes past notable scenic spots. There is even some entertainment on the train itself with shamisen performances daily; on weekends storytellers recite folk tales in the local dialect. A reservation is required for this train. Left: Hata Hata Kan Bath Right: Shirakami abalone www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 Make Yourself at Home

Whether you’re in for a brief rest or a long-term stay, we’re sure you’ll fall in love with this hotel and ryokan pair

black hard-boiled eggs. Fresh eggs are placed in nets and submerged in the onsen’s hot spring source to boil. After the eggs sit in the sulfurous onsen water, the hard-boiled eggs turn black on the outside from the chemical re- actions. The egg on the inside remains white, and the hard-boiled eggs are said to not spoil for a long time because of the minerals that help kill bacteria. Said to have been This directly translates into what established 330 years ago, Kuroyu believes the onsen can do to help Kuroyu is the furthest the body. The minerals in the hot spring onsen from Nyuto Village. water, rich in aroma, are believed to help The ryokan is known as heal skin diseases and detoxify the body. Kuroyu a location for long-term “Waterfalls” of onsen water are available stays, or tojiba, and is in a separate hut near the baths to help n Akita, are seen as an equipped with a kitchen where you can soothe sore muscles with a natural, extension of the earth, a source of prepare all your own meals and a Japanese water-pressure massage. minerals and vitamins that enrich style BBQ for anyone to enjoy. If you’re the naturally hot water that bubbles looking to go more towards the relaxation 014-1201 Akita-ken, Senboku-shi, Ifrom the ground. Situated deep in the route, though, you can have dinner served in Tazawako Obonai, Kuroyuzawa 1-2-1 mountains of Nyuto in Akita Prefecture, your room. 0187-46-2214 there is a stretch of onsens that remains One of the signature features of this resort, ryokan.glocal-promotion.com/ryokan/kuroyu/ nearly undiscovered by tourists. whose name translates as “black onsen,” is its www.kuroyu.com

Yamanote

aisen City, in the southern inland region of Akita Pre- fecture, is famous for its lush natural wonders—spectacular Dwaterfalls, sacred hundred-year-old trees, and peaceful mountain streams. It’s only fitting that such a location plays host to an equally impressive getaway— the Yamanote Hotel. laxation and skin beautification Described as a “forest resort,” effects, as well as an incredible Yamanote Hotel sits amongst some of rotenburo (outdoor hot spring the most beautiful and relaxing natural bath) which is surrounded by trees and surroundings you could hope for. Let all offers one of the most peaceful, snow-cov- dishes made from locally grown veg- the worries and stresses of everyday city ered views imaginable during the winter. etables and retire to your traditional, life fall away as you enjoy a level of tran- The soft sulfate spring water is said to be well appointed room decorated with quility and relaxation that only nature able to relieve a broad range of symptoms seasonal flowers. can bring. such, as muscle stiffness and a variety of In addition to its natural surround- skin conditions. Akita-ken, Daisen-shi, 67-3 Nioji ings, Yamanote Hotel also offers some After a rejuvenating day of soaking, Omagarinishine, 014-0072 unique onsen experiences, including dine at the hotel’s in-house restaurant that 0187-68-2001 mineral springs that provide both re- serves up delicious and hearty traditional e-gpk.co.jp/yamanote-hotel

SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com EXPAT LIFE | WEEKENDER | 25

andreasoverland/Flickr (CC BY 2.0)

TAKE YOUR FIRST STEPS ON THE PATH OF ZEN Deepen your understanding of the philosophy and practice of Zen at this lecture series, delivered in simple English and Japanese. Participants will learn about this wisdom tradition through discussing the work of famed scholar D.T. Suzuki and by examining the “Ten Oxherding Pictures,” a set of images that illustrate the stages of spiritual development. Lecturer: Dr. Stefan Grace, MA and PhD (Komazawa University) E-mail: [email protected] | Phone: 03-3455-5851 Schedule: Sept. 24, Oct. 22, Nov. 26, Dec. 24 Time: 6:30 pm–8:00 pm | Fee: 500 yen (per session) Location: Bukkyo Dendo Kyokai (8F),108-0014, Tokyo, Minato-ku, Shiba 4-3-1 4

www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 EXPRESSIONS OF EARTH AND SKY Still inspired by his time with the Sherpas of , photographer Tomohiro Muda captures the language of the elements in his upcoming exhibit at Kashima Arts

est known for his work with the Sherpa on the list, while kuu, the universe, is always at people of the Himalayas, Tomohiro Muda the end. This separation fascinated me, providing is a renowned photographer who has all kinds of opportunities. With these pictures I been wowing audiences with his pictures got the sense that within this huge solar system I forB over three decades. From September 5th to the knew my place.” 20th, he will be displaying his latest photographic The captivating shots, mostly black and white, works at Kashima Arts in Kyobashi. Entitled “Chi- are taken from a variety of locations around the Ku no Bo” (Expressions of Earth and Sky), it is world, including many in England and Ireland the second in a series of exhibitions depicting the as well as Cape Ashizuri in Kochi. As with “Mizu “Cosmic Five Elements”: Chi (Earth), Sui (Water), no Bo” (“Portraits of Water”) the majority are Ka (Fire), Fuu (Wind) and Kuu (Sky). photographs from years ago, but there are some “As I lined up some of my old photos I realized more recent ones in there as well. Using a digital these elements featured prominently,” Muda single lens reflex camera Muda says he “visits tells Weekender. “I thought that it would be places randomly,” and starts shooting when he interesting to use this as a topic to display my feels inspiration. Nothing is planned in advance. collections; however, it seemed too broad to do “While I am walking, if I feel something in one exhibition. I decided to divide things up. A then I’ll stop to take the picture,” says Muda. picture of a waterfall caught my eye so I started “I don’t have ideas in my head beforehand. Of things off with water last year. course sometimes I go to various places and take “While that was quite easy to do on its own, nothing. Other times I get that sense of yuragi— I felt earth and sky would be better put together like a spark or tremor. It’s not in my head: it just as they are at opposite ends of the spectrum. Chi, happens when I turn the camera and press the the actual ground we live on, usually comes first shutter without even realizing it.

SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com TOMOHIRO MUDA | ART & CULTURE | 27

“I believe it has to be instinctive. You can’t go out to take pictures in an emotional state thinking you will be moved by what’s around you. If you do that then the photos will probably be quite boring. The most interesting and remarkable images— whether they be religious buildings, rocks, the sky or water—are the ones produced intuitively.” Muda has been taking photos since his late teens. Prior to that his main passion was painting. Going to art classes in the evenings while studying Sociology at Waseda University, he considered photography as an inferior skill to drawing. He then saw a picture of an 11-faced Kannon (a Buddhist deity) statue by renowned Japanese photographer Ken Domon at his friend’s apartment and was intrigued. “I went to the library and started looking through his other books of photography and thought they were amazing,” he says. “After that I checked out other photographers, including Shomei Tomatsu, and it was like something just hit me. I was shocked. I Tomatsu advised Muda to go out and live all of the festivals—it was so much fun. They realized that this was what I wanted to do. with local people in Nepal, do what they did let me into their world and allowed me to I rushed to join the photography club at and from there great views would naturally take photographs which they don’t usually Waseda, but for most people in the group it follow, so that’s exactly what he did. While do because they don’t want their lives being was just a hobby—not many were interested working as an assistant to a cameraman, exposed to foreigners.” in doing it as a profession. he was introduced to a Nepalese boy who Three decades have passed since “I thought to myself, ‘Shohei Tomatsu is invited him to stay with his family high up Muda first went out to spend time in the still alive, why don’t I ask if I can become in the Himalayas. He went to the mountains mountainous country of Nepal, but his his pupil?’ I went to see him, but he said he didn’t need a student or an assistant. ‘In order to take pictures you need to be alone,’ he told me. I asked him to at least have a With these pictures I got the sense that within look at my photos, but he turned me down. I eventually persuaded him to come to a this huge solar system I knew my place. university festival that was displaying some of my work. He spoke highly of what he saw on three occasions, each time for around six appetite for photography remains as strong and then invited me to his house to show months, spending his days with the ethnic as ever. Listening to him speak about “Chi-Ku him some more.” group known as the Sherpas. no Bo” (“Portraits of Earth and Sky”) you can “I had a lot of difficulties there,” he says. feel his passion. This still means so much to “There was no electricity, gas, or water him. In the future he may pass the baton on supply systems. I couldn’t have any meat to his son who is now studying photography or rice so I was only eating potatoes. I got at college. So does he have any advice for hepatitis, dysentery and suffered from him or any other people looking to follow in malnutrition. It had a terrible impact on his footsteps? my liver, so much so that for the past thirty “I have never told my son anything about years I have been going to the hospital for how to take pictures,” Muda says. “I just let him treatment. do it freely. I think it is best to do it the way you “Yet having said all of that I would love think and keep doing that. It may take time, but to do it again. It was a real precious time you will eventually figure out the style that is in my life. Living with the Sherpas, joining the best fit for you.”

KASHIMA ARTS

Kashima Arts is located in Kyobashi, just a short walk recently have started showing works of contempo- from either Tokyo Station or the Ginza area. The rary artists that the owner carefully selects, based building dates back to 1927, while the interior reveals on his aesthetic sense sharpened in dealing with old a mix of modern alongside a very Japanese paintings. traditional tea room, where you can enjoy Japanese In order to help foreigners to better understand culture with the senses. Japanese arts and culture, they have English speaking They are known for their high quality collections staff in the gallery as well as experts to explain about of traditional Japanese painting and calligraphy works in detail. A luxurious space that takes a twist from the up to the present day, including on the typical museum experience, Kashima Arts works by the renowned artist Ito Jakuchu. Also, they offers something that is truly extraordinary.

Dates: Sat., Sept. 5–Sun., Sept. 20 (Open 10 am–6 pm) | Address: 3-3-2 Kyobashi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104-0031 Web: www.kashima-arts.co.jp/en/index.html | Tel: 03-3276-0700 | Admission: Free

www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 Clear Quality The creations of the luxury glassware firm can be found on the tables of royals and heads of state, but they’re well within reach of the casual shopper

agami Crystal Co., Ltd was established in “ordered by the Imperial Household Agency for Kamata in southern Tokyo back in 1934. official receptions with foreign dignitaries.” It was Japan’s first crystal glass factory An entire side of the store is lined with beautiful and was founded by Kozo Kagami after transparent whisky and wine glasses. Mochizuki Kreturning from , where he studied crystal points out one in particular—a dignified whisky glassware processing techniques. glass whose facets are reminiscent of a delicately Now, more than 80 years later, the company is cut precious stone. “The Ministry of Foreign Affairs still going strong and you can experience Kagami’s ordered this glass with an inscription for John F. trademark detail-oriented crystal glassware in Kerry,” the 68th US Secretary of State. Tokyo at a cozy shop located just five minutes’ The other side of the store is dedicated to the walk from Ginza station. As soon as you set colorful “Edo Kiriko” cut glasses, a truly original foot inside, you will be struck by the stunningly form of Japanese craftwork that dates back more beautiful items on display. than 180 years to the work of master glassman Kagami Crystal’s president, Hidetoshi Kyubei Kagaya. Kagaya initiated the art form Mochizuki, who visits the Ginza store every when he started experimenting with cutting week, proudly points out to Weekender various patterns into the glass, but it was that some of their glassware products are the influx of Western glass cutting techniques

SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com Foreman Yoshiyuki Tamura directs the KIRIKO workshop

Family, the Japanese government, and Japanese embassies and consulates all around the world for official receptions. Kagami Crystal glassware can be found in embassies and consulates in more than 250 countries around the world. Thanks to these honors and this worldwide recognition, Kagami Crystal Ginza Shop: the company has developed a As elegant as the delicate works of glass strong and loyal following, both that it contains, the Kagami Crystal Shop international and domestic, for in Ginza is the perfect environment for Clear Quality its advanced glass-making skills discovering this refined art. and techniques like hand glass- Address: 104-0061, Tokyo, Chuo-ku, and styles that helped Edo Kiriko flourish blowing, manual cutting and engraving. Ginza 6-2-1 Daiwa Building into the unique art form that it is today. It The company takes pride in its reputation Web: www.kagami.jp/english/ is instantly recognizable for its distinctive for producing “the best quality crystal in use of patterns and designs that can often Japan,” and as Mochizuki explains, this be found on traditional kimono: abstract legacy is something that the brand will other bespoke goods, and will let you see geometrical forms such as the kagome continue to refine in the decades to come. for yourself the quality and tradition that basket-weave pattern or the arrow-pointed have gone into making Kagami a household yarai, as well as chrysanthemum flowers, name in houses around the world. The hemp leaves, or fish, all delicately rendered Our highly skilled shop also specializes in engraving, so you in a variety of colored glass. craftsmen combine can even get your own family emblem (if Although the history of this art form you’re lucky enough to have one!) engraved dates back nearly two centuries, it has technical skills and onto a set of timeless pieces. They’d make played a role in more recent diplomatic a perfect gift for anyone you’d like to affairs as well. Mochizuki points out two artistic passion to impress, be they a foreign dignitary or your small sake glasses, in blue and red, and says produce the finest and grandparents back home. “Prime Minister Abe presented this pair to President Obama when he was in Japan most detailed works [last year].” Kagami Crystal’s reputation and of crystal glass art esteemed customer base are impressive, but this should come as no surprise: the “Our highly skilled craftsmen combine company has been earning accolades since technical skills and artistic passion to its inception. Kozo Kagami won a silver for produce the finest and most detailed its products at the 1937 Paris World Expo, works of crystal glass art. Based on the a medal of honor at the 1939 New York concept of monozukuri no kokoro, or World Expo and the grand prize at the 1958 passion for manufacturing excellence, we Brussels World Expo. Since then, Kagami intend to continue our relentless efforts to Crystal has received many more special enhance our technologies and skills, and commissions from the likes of the Imperial commit ourselves to offering products that express high standards of technique as well as creativity.” Just because the company’s client list includes Japanese royalty and foreign heads of state doesn’t mean that this impeccable crystalware is only for the rich and famous. A visit to the store in Ginza will let you get up close and personal with the various glasses, liquor decanters, perfume containers, decorative vases and

Opposite page: This decanter and set of six glasses, exquisitely rendered in clear and blue crystal, are a testament to the Kagami craftmen’s skill, and certain to turn heads at your next event Left: We can’t guarantee that your beverage of choice will necessarily taste better in one of these finely cut tumblers, but we are certain that you’ll see what you’re drinking in an entirely new light Right: Featuring an ornate pattern that you can see as well as feel, this impressive flower vase will help highlight the beauty of bouquets for years to come. www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 A Land That Takes Its Time

Steeped in history and surrounded by peerless natural beauty, Kagoshima Prefecture is a land where the living is truly easy

each skies overhead, a warm ocean breeze, and the smells of nature are stark reminders that Ka- goshima is vastly different from Tokyo. Still fondly referred to as Satsuma, the most southern part Pof Kyushu has a great deal to offer visitors. Often, people think of Japan and imagine Kyoto or Shibuya, though there is a vast world of Japan yet to be discovered. Here, life is different from the more popular destinations. Life is slow- er, life is adventurous, life is natural, life is humble and human. Tourists are less likely to frequent the area; thus, more “hotspots” are preserved and more honest. There is purity in the attitude of the people in Kagoshima, who welcome anyone and everyone. Centuries ago, Satsuma and Edo weren’t quite on the friendliest of terms. Cordial and abiding, Japan was quiet for centuries, especially while its international ports were The subsequent leadership of Saigo Takamori, herald- closed and Edo kept the doors shut on the world from 1450 ed as one of the most forward-thinking leaders of Japan to 1770. (and one of the tallest), helped Satsuma grow and develop Satsuma, however, remained open. Trading among its own strength to defend itself, and Japan. The independ- , Korea, and was a regular affair. ence and disobedience towards Edo led to the eventual and Satsuma had its own currency to conceal trading from unavoidable Meiji Restoration of 1868, which thrust Japan Edo, so monetary exchanges couldn’t be tracked. Weapons into the modern and global world. from the , gifts from Abraham Lincoln after Today, evidence of this globalism and unique drive the Civil War, made it into Satsuma. Pottery made it out of is exhibited by the people. Everyone possesses their own Satsuma, and across the world to and England. creative purpose, and has their own personal pride that

SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com KAGOSHIMA | TRAVEL SPECIAL | 31

Kagoshima is a place of beauty; a place of healing, history, and exploring

Created in 1658 primarily as the grounds for a villa under Lord Shimadzu Mitsuhisa, it is preserved today as a garden for visi- tors to learn about the history of Satsuma keeps them upright. Kagoshima is a place and see a number of recreated tools, weap- of beauty; a place of healing, history, and ons, buildings, and the like. Many histor- exploring. Though it has evolved subtly, ical plant varieties thrive today, cared for much of “old” Satsuma perseveres through- by volunteers and historians. A museum out the region to this day. Make Kagoshima with a café on-site serves Satsuma history your next destination, and see, for yourself, with a side of sweet potatoes and teas. The the place that helped to guide and shape gardens themselves are expansive, and the present-day Japan. natural jungles played important roles in is just down the street from the popular centuries’ worth of battles. There is a bus Flower Kagoshima. SAKURAJIMA stop directly outside the gardens, just ten Sakurajima is perhaps one of the sites minutes from downtown Kagoshima City. MAKURAZAKI CITY people may be most familiar with when Perhaps the most impressive part of they think of Kagoshima. The volcano on the MT. KAIMON Makurazaki City is not the beautiful island is famously known to react and erupt Considered to be the “Satsuma Fuji,” Mt. scenery, or the delicious southern food, or on an almost daily basis—over the course of Kaimon rises prominently in the midst of the warm ocean beaches, but the smell. the previous summer, it was known to have Kagoshima’s “healthy lands,” where the Makurazaki produces much of the fish erupted over 600 times. Not every day is so soil is richest for farming, flowers grow flakes found in Japanese supermarkets— lucky; often, the summit may be enveloped wild, and the hot springs are the clearest and yes, the smell of fish is strong in the in clouds or haze, or the eruptions so small and freshest. Mt. Kaimon is an icon of the air. It doesn’t take long to get used to, and they go undetected from across the bay. The south; residents will happily discuss the the city holds a few gems for visitors. The largest eruption in Japan was by Sakurajima, symmetry and beauty of the deep green roads run high in the mountains, and in 1914—it spilled enough lava to connect mountain. It too is considered an active offer breathtaking views of the ocean. it to the nearby peninsula. Around the city, volcano, though its summit is preserved The vista has inspired countless works of you can find “Giant Sakurajima Daikon,” at a modest 924 meters. There are hiking art, particularly old Buddhist paintings. which were harvested on the island near the restrictions; though there is no frost or Even Hollywood used Makurazaki and the chain of hot springs in the vicinity. Be wary snow, even in winter. nearby mountains as a background during of the delicate, flowery name it was given, the production of the James Bond film and check the schedule daily for a warning, CAPE NAGASAKI “You Only Live Twice” in 1967. There is a in case of an evacuation notice. You can Cape Nagasaki marks the southernmost marker visitors can find if they have a very view it and the city from a higher point up at point of the Satsuma Peninsula. A small good GPS system. Shiroyama Observatory. white lighthouse faces the open sea, guiding ships, which come from as close as SENGAN-EN Yakushima or as far away as Europe, into Across the bay from Sakurajima is one of the the bay. Right behind the lighthouse, up most important in Japan: Sengan-en. the slope of the Cape, is Ryugu Shrine. The bright red and orange colors of the shrine sharply contrast with the blue sea, where the god Ryugu is said to live. Shells replace traditional wooden SENGAN-EN mamori boards, and KAGOSHIMA SAKURAJIMA

shrine-goers can write MAKURAZAKI

their wish and place it MOUNT KAIMON carefully into a wooden CAPE NAGASAKI bucket nearby. The drive to the cape is

quite scenic as well; it Getting There takes visitors around There are about 30 flights per day between Mt. Kaimon, past wild Tokyo (Narita or Haneda) and Kagoshima, and sunflower fields, and travel time is about 1 hour and 45 minutes. You can go there by Shinkansen as well, but be prepared for a several-hour trip—best if part of a longer journey downwww.tokyoweekender.com south. SEPTEMBER 2015 AN INN BEYOND COMPARE Consistently ranked among the country’s top ryokan, Hakusuikan rivals small cities with its list of attractions

y father built Hakusuikan Shimotakehara over 60 years ago, in 1947. has reached that goal It’s evolved quite a bit in a number of ways. since it was first opened, There are just under Mand I plan to go even further with it,” twenty restaurants, says Tadataka Shimotakehara as he dining halls, cafes, speaks about the family business. He and lounges in the has already gone quite a long way. After complex, each with a joining the Mitsubishi Corporation after different theme and a graduation, Shimotakehara was sta- variety of cuisines. If tioned overseas. He lived in Manhattan you feel like having a and later studied Russian and Political traditional Japanese Science at Harvard, and eventually breakfast, you can do moved to Russia and working at a chem- just that, then enjoy ical plant. Western for lunch His ryokan is a reflection of this and Chinese for broad international experience—it’s an dinner. There are high-end restaurants Guests can find multiple languages on expansive, 69-acre campus of surprises on-site as well, including the highly sign posts, and get help in the language around every corner. Even a weeklong acclaimed Fenice Italian restaurant. Sur- they are most comfortable in from staff. stay is not enough time to experience all rounded by a moat, and lit by torches at “People are obsessed with pairing Shimotakehara provides for his guests. night, it’s a considerably romantic place. Japan with the idea of ‘omotenashi.’ Other hints of globalism can be However, from my experience, Japan LUXURIATE IN VARIETY seen throughout the halls. Traditional is not the only country that possesses Hakusuikan combines what his father mixes with pieces from it. In fact, I think much of the world established, a solid infrastructure based overseas. Turtles may be crawling in one is beating Japan at ‘omotenashi’.” His on southern Okinawan traditions (“It hallway, while another might feature an primary example is of staff at a was all the rage in the 50s”), mixed with entire hall of plants. Doors are covered resort speaking multiple languages, and global influences from more recent dec- in hand-painted exotic flowers. Hakusui- knowing the art of subtle assistance, who ades. “I want to provide Japanese guests kan hosts traditional Japanese weddings, succeed at timely approaches. with an experience that makes them feel and ceremonies from other religious Today, his staff receives lessons removed from Japan.” backgrounds at different venues on site. on other languages and etiquette with KAGOSHIMA | TRAVEL SPECIAL | 33

Tokyo needs an example of ‘omotenashi’ to follow. I would like to help set that example, to reaffirm the image the world has of Japan

BASKING IN HISTORY About 250 years ago, residents of Kagoshima were looking for ways to export their prod- ucts to a worldwide audience. Following the re-opening of Japan’s doors, and the immedi- ate fame of “Japonism” after the 1867 World Fair, there was a rise in demand of Japanese products. The Satsuma Denshokan Museum houses a number of pieces that were made and foreign guests. Many guests come from much of the hotel replicates an Edo-style exported around the world from Kagoshima. nearby Hong Kong, , and building, the onsen hall imitates a Genroku The vast, yet pristine building is a work of . Hakusuikan would love to invite (Golden Age of Japan: 1688–1704) style; there art itself. The ground floor is an impressive col- more Western guests to experience the is a tall wooden bridge over a large hot spring, lection of ceramics, mostly the creations of gen- hospitality and luxury of the resort—re- and smaller hot springs are divided into small erations of Kagoshima artisans, while upstairs cently, a French magician was hired to rooms that look like traditional bars, with lan- exhibits delve into local history of the area entertain guests on certain days. During terns hanging over them and Meiji-jidai-style that was once known as Satsuma. The leaders summer, fireworks are lit off downtown artwork covering all of the walls. Plants grow of this region, including Saigo Takamori, Ibusuki three days a week. Live music is everywhere, making it feel more like a small played a significant role in the development of played out on the pool deck during warm town than a bathing area. modern Japan, and a wide variety of scrolls and summers, and storytellers and university In a separate area, Hakusuikan offers its paintings record the lives and times of these lecturers put on shows monthly. Guests own famous Kagoshima sand bath. The tradi- powerful figures. All staff on site are highly who are in for a bit of water adventure tional sand bath dates back 200 years, and is a knowledgeable and available to give tours and can head out into the water for trip on a considered a natural exfoliating process that answer questions. They offer audio guides in nimble catamaran, helmed by local staff. helps “sweat out” toxins in the body. Almost multiple languages—but allow plenty of time; five kilograms of hot sand are poured evenly the English version reportedly runs almost two BATHING BEAUTY across the body (keeping the yukata on, of and a half hours. There is a sit-down café and Of course, Hakusuikan is, first and fore- course). With temperatures reaching nearly gift shop at the end of the tour, which acts as a most, an onsen ryokan. There are onsen 70 degrees Celsius (!), it can be a little too hot nice reward afterwards. options everywhere. The main hot springs for guests, so the time limit is set from 10 to 15 Outside on the borders of the forest, Shimo- hall is enormous. It takes a bit of walking minutes. “Water from the onsen runs about 70 takehara surveys the land. “I’m going to expand around the maze-like campus to find it cm below the sand, and is layered with more and add in a port, and let guests use boats at first, but the journey is worth it. While sand underneath for stability. Every day, we here someday.” He looks back at the towers cycle through [the equivalent of] 450 tons of and long wings. “Right now we can have up fresh onsen water.” It’s a must for guests to to 700 guests, but I want to be able to support try out a sand bath while visiting Kagoshima. more, and bring more people to Kagoshima; “We have our sand baths indoors, so that it’s overlooked often by tourists who want to guests can do it 365 days a year. Most oth- see Tokyo, which is a shame.” He explains er sand baths are weather dependent, so about the difference between them—how we removed that inconvenience.” Tokyo is electric and enticing, but it’s Nearby, after sweating it out, supported by salarymen who all look guests can relax outdoors in one of the same and “have the same work.” the beachfront hammocks under In Kagoshima, “everyone does some- a palm tree, or take a walk in the thing different. We value everyone pine forest and spot rabbits hop- in this city, and at Hakusuikan. We ping around. Or, they could have a all have a special purpose. Our guests drink at their own “Shochu Dyojo,” are all special. where staff have collected over 400 “The Olympics are coming, and Tokyo kinds of Kagoshima shochu brands. If needs an example of omotenashi to that doesn’t quite pique your interest, follow. I would like to help set that exam- you could take a look at another ple, to reaffirm the image the world has highlight of Hakusuikan: the ryokan’s of Japan.” private museum. To make a booking, go to: www.hakusuikan.co.jp/en/ HALLS OF HEALING Combining cutting-edge—yet incision-free—cancer therapy with resort-level ac- commodations, Medipolis is a place for recovery and relaxation

lease, do not call it a research facility, tion is best for the earliest results.” a clinic, or a hospital. It is a place for Second, the tumors must be small: only a therapy, it is for recovery, and it is for few millimeters in diameter. “Currently, we the future.” Yoshio Hishikawa has a treat almost all types of cancer—most com- Pgentle yet insistent voice. Hishikawa has been monly, pancreatic, stomach, prostate, and lung. the director of Medipolis since it opened on We are developing ways to treat breast cancer. January 1, 2011. He has been studying particle Brain cancer is not [immediately] treatable therapy as a form of cancer treatment for using our method.” almost 30 years. Third, the patient must apply for and “Cancer rates are rising. We need to watch receive a check-up at Medipolis. They don’t out for everything—even milk, and the increas- accept National Health Insurance at the mo- ing amount of hormones used. Then there’s the ment, but do “take all forms of private health concern after receiving diagnosis. Many go un- insurance—even international.” treated because of the pain, the cost, and slim Work can begin after receiving full clear- chance of full recovery. We have a solution.” ance. “Sometimes the patient’s family comes On paper, it sounds remarkable. And as down with them. Our facility doesn’t have of now, only a few countries have a handful of beds or rooms like in a hospital. Patients stay clinics that provide this form of treatment. at Bay Terrace Hotel next door in their rooms, “We call it Proton Beam Therapy.” It irra- surrounded by friends or family.” diates and destroys cancer cells in just three The location, Hishikawa proclaims, is to seven weeks, depending on the size and the prime resort land; the pride of Kagoshima, type of cancer. and perfect for those recovering from cancer. There are several steps to go through “We have the fewest earthquakes of any before being treated using the center’s proton region, and the warmest climate, and the most beam therapy. First, the patient must be diag- nature. It’s peaceful; it’s a peace our patients nosed early. “The best and most effective way feel when they’re here.” to detect cancer early are thorough personal Patients (on average, 40 a day) only need to checks, regular check-ups with your doctor, see one of the three doctors on-site and receive and better technology, including usage of PET the proton treatment for 30 minutes daily. “We cameras,” Hishikawa explains. “Blood detec- are closed Saturday and Sunday,” he says with

SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com KAGOSHIMA | HEALTH TOURISM | 35

a smile. “Even cancer gets a holiday.” We are treated to a tour of Medipolis. The mood is completely different from that of a hospital; there are rich colors everywhere. Staff members are wearing Hawaiian-print shirts. There are plants and flowers and stuffed toys on counters. “I love Hawaii.” Hishikawa can’t resist a grin. “I want…our patients to feel at ease.” He introduces us to Tadataka Shimotakehara, who is aiding with the business side of Medipolis, and runs both Bay Terrace Hotel and Hakusuikan Resort—he also happens to be a patient. Shimotakehara speaks just as positively as Hishikawa. “Sure, it was a shock to realize I had cancer. Did my life change? No. All I do is wake up, get my 30 minutes of treatment, then go to work.” Morale around the facility is positive: they have treated over 1,500 patients with overwhelmingly positive results. “We want to make life as normal as possible, and turn this more into a vacation than anything else,” Shimotakehara speaks with pride in his voice while waving to the staff. He points to the big metal bed under the small particle projector that looks like a microscope. “Our patients lie here. When I do, I feel like the naked king. There’s nothing to fear. No heat, no pain, nothing. The hardest part is BAY TERRACE staying awake—you’re so bored. So I had the staff play jazz music. It helps pass the time.” The enormous proton beam machine was provided, and is now maintained daily, by Mitsubishi staff to make sure nothing goes awry. RESORT The accelerator, Synchrotron, is just as impressive. “It accelerates the particles nearly to the speed of light. It takes 70 seconds to complete the process. We use computers to 3D-map the cancer, and pinpoint Cinematic surroundings and comfortable the location. Then, it’s 15 minutes to line up the proton beam. After interiors are an ideal complement to the There’s nothing to fear. No heat, therapy at Medipolis

no pain, nothing. The hardest part is ay Terrace Resort is staying awake—you’re so bored. a wonderful comple- ment to Medipolis. that, the light is beamed every two seconds for one minute. Then the Built by the Japanese BNational Tourism agency dec- process repeats once more. And that’s it.” There is no physical cutting, penetration, or incision made. And in ades back and sold to Shimo- Japan, which has deep roots in and Shintoism, there is still takehara’s family just a few a reluctance to cut open the human body, so the treatment method years ago, it’s an impressive, aids sensitive and private patients, says Hishikawa. “We irradiate the monolithic building. Only a cancer and the fear.” 15 minutes’ drive from down- Hishikawa has a specific routine he follows to stay healthy. “I town Ibusuki, the view overlooking the city is splendid and refreshing; rise with the sun and walk to the beach. I eat tomatoes daily. I never the ocean, the sailboats, the mountains and islands in the distance—it’s smoke—smoking is one thing that guarantees cancer. I go to work and something out of a movie. meet patients. Sometimes the kids are here and saying ‘You can do Surrounded by a terrace, visitors can relax outside just as much as it, mommy/daddy!’ And that is so nice—to know we have a place for inside. The low lights at night make it a great spot for stargazing when everyone to be together.” it’s warm. Outdoor hot springs and hiking trails make it an ideal place He pauses and considers the future. “Treatment for proton ther- for those who enjoy nature and light adventure. Paths outside, and apy is expensive at the moment. That’s why it’s not as popular. In the small bathhouses, are connected to the hotel via stilted patio board- future, I believe there will be a drug available that can treat cancer. walks that wind among the trees. But right now, our service is indispensable. We are guaranteeing a Inside, the grand hall has a high-vaulted ceiling, and canals with koi quick, painless solution to a problem. And that is priceless.” fish. Rooms are on the upper floors, and all come furnished with West- To learn more, visit the website: medipolis-ptrc.org/english ern-style beds, tatami rooms, cozy dens for the guests, private balconies, and and plenty of closet space for lengthier stays. As important as pa- tients’ comfort is to staff, their well-being is an even higher priority. The newest technology for patients to monitor their own vital signs—as well as emergency communication systems—have been installed, and room layouts are kept simple for guests of all ages and capabilities in mind. Tennis courts, restaurants, and even a sand bath facility are all available for residents. In the lobby, there is even a large projector that shows films; small shops are on the first floor, along with a café filled with dozens of books to read at guests’ leisure. Of course, Bay Terrace is not exclusive to Medipolis patients: visitors are more than welcome to stay at Bay Terrace, whether they’re being treated or not.

Address: 5000 Higashikata, Ibusuki, Kagoshima-ken, 891-0304 Tel: 0993-23-5552 | Web: www.ibusuki-bay-terrace.com

www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 New Sacred Land With artistry around every corner, this Shingon Buddhist temple is a delight for the senses and the soul

top one of the wild, untamed mountains of southern Kagoshima Prefecture is Fu- A dosan Seiryuji. The Shingon Buddhist temple is spread across a grove surrounded by tall cedar trees, a treasure waiting to be discovered. Across the sprawling grounds stand five buildings, each housing art and religious objects created just for this temple, both onsite and abroad. Fudosan Seiryuji is remarkably new. In a country that recognizes shrines and temples that are hun- dreds—even thousands—of years old, visiting a temple that was erected just 25 years ago is a rare experience. Every section of the property has been meticulously planned, down to the last pebble. The sheer number of details is the brush. tall stalks of grass. Stepping stones lead overwhelming, and each one beckons Walking up the slope, a gateway visitors through shrubbery and past the visitor to appreciate the thought arch (Niohmon) comes into view – a small bonsai and Japanese maple trees, behind it. grand one, replicating traditional and small ponds filled with glittering From the very beginning—even arches of the past. Two statues of gods blue marbles shine in the sunlight. It’s in the parking lot—aesthetic touches stand poised at the gates, guarding quiet and tranquil: an ideal place for abound. Two broad walls greet you the entrance. In the distance, the meditation and contemplation. at the gate: on the left is painted a red arch perfectly frames a tall, standing To the right, in one of the more phoenix; on the right, a blue dragon. ivory-white statue of Buddha, the sun humble structures on the premises, A gold statue salutes visitors as they glowing across its back. is the office and visitors’ center. In make their way up a path paved with Once under the arch, the gardens the back room, brightly lit with the smooth white stones. Upon enter- come into full view: smooth sand and morning light and a view of the forest ing the darkness of the forest, your pebble gardens, with messages formed below, sit the monks and nuns who eyes adjust just in time to see small, by white stones; small statues and pa- help maintain and run the grounds. quiet Buddhist statues lining the path, godas; lush, finely trimmed bushes; and Their robes are starched and clean, crouched behind trees, and beneath

SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com KAGOSHIMA | TRAVEL SPECIAL | 37 with sharp creases and bright colors. The most striking feature of the monks and nuns are their youth: the Fudosan Seiryuji first started construction, and held its first prayer, in July of Year 2 (1990). The monks and nuns have grown with the temple, making the decisions for a modern way of following Buddhism. The head monk is Yoshii Yukai. His family founded the temple and began construction once they found the perfect location. “The land in Kagoshima is fertile, and sacred— we are closest to the Eastern Asian roots of Buddhism by being here.” Yukai is relaxed, leaning back in his chair, elbows on the armrest. His eyes are serious as he listens to visitors, and he bows his head frequently in agreement. Yet, his eyes also reveal a youthful glow, a happiness and mischievousness that seems in odds with his position of author- ity. He steals a glance at the July edition of Weekender, and launches into a monologue about which UFC fighters he is rooting for, comparing their strengths and weaknesses: “This one has the look of a fighter…he is not It was a wonderful, bright, loud city. I loved The ceiling is high, and the incense rises very traditional in demeanor, but I think he Caesar’s Palace. We stopped by on the way steadily. The second and third rooms, are may surprise you.” Another monk contests his to the Grand Canyon, and I would love to go more subdued: one depicts a sky and a being claim, and he chuckles at the other’s predic- back sometime.” He mulls over the thought, painted in red, the other with a water theme, tion. “You’ll see, you’ll see, he’ll pull through.” almost amused by the notion. He is quick to featuring more rich blues. In Buddhism, “red Yukai then leans back and recalls when speak, and engaging in his movements. He symbolizes life and passion.” The blue is a the monks and nuns of Seiryuji were doing twiddles his thumbs and rocks his feet and representation of “faith, and healing—for their research during the temple’s con- rocks back and forth excitedly as he talks water and the heavens all together.” In the struction period. They took many spiritual about where else the group has traveled. He back of the garden is a temple painted in journeys and volunteered much of their time eagerly recounts trips around Southeast Asia, gold, for special ceremonies. A dark, wooden at different sites around the world. “On Europe, and North America. structure holds statues of oni (demons), and “We would like to plan more collabora- is a place to write a prayer or expel any bad luck. I bring inspiration back here with me. Our Yukai is waiting for us at the end. “Did you meditate?” “Well, we walked in and place is not traditional; we are carrying tradition admired the works.” He chuckles, pleased. “That’s good enough.” into the modern world The maze of passages and art can transfix visitors, and the sounds of nature the back wall are photos we took from our tion with other spiritual groups. Nice people and the trickle of small waterfalls relax and trips, and the spiritual locations we visited,” are everywhere. Spiritualism can be found soothe the wandering mind. Smiling faces he says, pointing to the collage. It’s a wide everywhere.” The group regularly does and encouragement from the caretakers array of photos that depict a small but international religious exchanges, and raises brings a sense of peace to the temple genuinely happy group trekking the world, support for the temple by attending yoga grounds. It may be new sacred land, but it discovering spiritual and sacred corners of retreats across the world and going on sacred is something special nonetheless. the world that would enhance their under- pilgrimages. Yukai speaks softly but enthu- standing of life and Dharma. siastically at what they’ve seen and learned. “We stayed in Las Vegas a few years ago. “I bring inspiration back here with me. Our place is not traditional; we are carrying tradi- tion into the modern world.” In the main building (Hondo), which is only fifteen years old, you must take off your shoes. There is a bridge that connects it to two other large halls (the Kannondo and Taishido. Many of the Buddha statues found in the hall were hand-crafted in Kyoto. One of the nuns points out the black granite floor: “The etchings were done by hand with a small pick for days on end—pick, pick, pick,” she says, while motioning to the floor. The wood and paint still smell fresh, and religious symbols—the lotus being the most dominant—can be found in every corner. Each section of the hall “houses” a different theme. The main is the most elaborate, with the most grand offerings and statues of Buddha inside. Head monk Yoshii Yukai www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 THE SPIRIT OF TRADITION Satsuma Shuzo is a place where shochu quality is distilled and generations of artisan craftsmanship can be tasted in every drop

of shochu over the last 20 years. The majority of it is exported right out of Kagoshima. What few people outside of Kagoshima know is that shochu is not widely produced by brand-name companies and large corporations. Most distilleries and labels are, on the contrary, handled by small fami- ly-run companies. One such company is Satsuma Shuzo, established in 1936 by the Hombo family. The earliest record of shochu being manufactured and served to customers is about 500 years prior, when a Portuguese traveler who had docked in Kagoshima recorded a note he business of shochu hasn’t about it in a diary. After centuries of Satsuma shochu always been as lucrative as it refinement and government recogni- today retains a is today. Bloomberg reported tion, “Satsuma shochu” today retains in January 2014 that exports a quality that can be compared with quality that can be Tof shochu reached a value of 8.5 Bordeaux wine or Scotch whiskey, compared with billion yen, the highest amount on as one of the tour guides at Satsu- record, with restaurants, hotels, and ma Shuzo’s Meijigura Museum in Bordeaux wine or customers from over 20 countries Makurazaki City explains. ordering bottles regularly. That’s a Shochu can be made from a Scotch whiskey 190% increase in international sales, variety of different crops, the most and an increase of 120% in total sales common being rice; barley;

SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com KAGOSHIMA | TRAVEL SPECIAL | 39

August and November. The favored type of transferred to”—and now, more water is sweet potato is called Kogane Sengan, and being added to liquefy it further—“holds is chosen for the flavor of the shochu that about 1000 liters. We use the ladder so we it yields. can climb up and check on it manually. We Once all of the potatoes have been still have to do that; no robot knows when picked, they are selected carefully and it’s ready.” washed. Afterwards, the potatoes are Finally, it’s stored in a cooling con- boiled and steamed, just before being tainer—a heavy vase-shaped barrel with cooled and then crushed by one of the a large lid on it. It can be stored up to processing machines. any number of days, again, depending At about the same time, another group on the client and the flavor goal in mind. at the brewery has been hard at work The entire process typically lasts 18 days. making koji, the “starter” material needed Pure, straight shochu, known as genshu, to make shochu. Steamed, then cooled rice is bottled directly after maturation and is sprinkled with a bacteria that is called filtration, and has an alcohol content koji-kin. It takes roughly two days for the of 37%. Other varieties of shochu are koji to grow on the rice, and maintain- produced by mixing with water. It is a ing just the right temperature is crucial combination of art and science that has for cultivating suitable koji. The shochu been perfected over the past eight decades master brewer, or touji, must stay at the at Satsuma Shuzo. brewery the entire time in order to ensure The Meijigura Museum offers an that the koji grows properly. After the koji has been produced, soba, or buckwheat; and imo, or sweet it is mixed with yeast and water, which potato. The most popular variety produced ferments for six to eight days. The product in Kagoshima is imo jochu—sweet potato sho- of this stage is a mash called moromi. The chu. The warm, humid climate of southern crushed sweet potatoes are mixed with Japan allows farmers to maximize on crops the moromi, and the mixture is allowed to and grow sweet potatoes yearly, yielding ferment for eight to 10 days. This second- larger quantities from their rich lands than ary moromi is then moved along to the northern farmers could. distillation process. Satsuma Shuzo has three main distiller- As Maeno Shoichi, Satsuma Shuzo’s ies that draw resources from various farms touji explains, there are three separate nearby. The key to good shochu is relying on barrels for the distillation process itself. fresh produce—never freezing, never drying. First, there is the earthen floor barrel. “It’s Satsuma Shuzo specializes in Honkaku about 600 liters in size, and it’s in the floor Shochu, meaning “authentic” or “single distil- because somebody needs to stir it by hand lation” (Korui shochu is the term for multiple with a giant spoon. Luckily, I’ve never distillations). fallen in.” Sweet potatoes in Kagoshima are usually There is an even larger barrel posi- planted in February, and grow rapidly from tioned next to it, above ground, and has March. Crops are usually harvested between a ladder beside it. “The next barrel it’s

intimate look at the past and present in shochu distilling. It feels like a barn: it is shrouded in darkness to shield the shochu, and the cold air keeps temperatures controlled. The rustic ambience takes you back in time. Even when no shochu is being made, its smell still lingers in the air. There is a lookout tower at the top where visitors can spy Kagoshima landmarks— even as far as Yakushima island—while sampling some shochu. Downstairs is a gift shop, where you can watch the commercial that a particularly famous studio made personally for one of Satsuma Shuzo’s brand bottles. Across the street is a small sweet potato beer garden where you can feast on local food and keep your spirits high.

Satsuma Shuzo’s website offers much more information on history and types of shochu: www.satsuma.co.jp/english

www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 ith twenty-two REI series hotels around the RELAX: All rooms are equipped with Tempur-Pedic mattresses country, the Tokyu Hotel chain provides Relaxation, to help you get the best night’s sleep. The Kagoshima REI Hotel W Enjoyment, and Impressiveness in every aspect of its has a pool, sauna, and hot spring to take a dip in, along with a services. As awards from TripAdvisor and enthusiastic fitness club where you can let off some steam. reviews by customers across several platforms show, the Tokyu REI Hotels are a popular choice for international and domestic ENJOY: One of Kagoshima REI Hotel’s appealing features is its travelers in Japan. Their convenient locations and welcoming open-air restaurant. Throughout the year, the restaurant holds environments are the perfect place for first-time travelers and events and festivals, welcoming outsiders to dine with guests veteran voyagers alike. during the day. With high-speed internet and chargers to use at As expected, there are REI Hotels in major cities around your leisure, it’s an easy place for kicking back. Japan, including , Tokyo, , Kyoto, and . They can also be found in farther-flung locations, including Kagoshima. IMPRESSIVE: The locations of the REI Tokyu Hotels are carefully The chain is known for its many amenities and the leisure facilities chosen to provide the best perspective of the city they’re in. that it provides for free. There are plenty of other features that At Kagoshima REI Hotel, each room has a view of the nearby make REI Tokyu Hotels stand out against other chains—just look mountains, coastline, or skyline. Concierges are ready to support to their name: visitors in exploring the surrounding region.

Web: www.tokyuhotelsjapan.com | tel: 099-256-0109 | Fax: 099-253-3692 Address: 5-1 Chuocho, Kagoshima, Kagoshima Prefecture 890-0053 SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com EXPAT LIFE | WEEKENDER | 41

Door to Door Pickup Service Quality Construction 24 Hour Staff Supervision Project Management One daycare visit available Open 365 Days No Cages

Over 150 projects and 18 years.

West Homes has been designing homes, managing projects and finding the right piece of real estate for our clients in Japan for a very long time. Before making an investment decision, contact West Canada Homes for advice on your project.

Athletic Dog Club co., Ltd. Custom Home Design • Project Management 1F 1-8-18 Akatsutsumi, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 156-0044 Tel: 0136-21-3838 !"#$%&'('')*(+&&'%%%%[email protected] Tel: 03-3327-1003 I Fax: 03-3327-7407 | E: [email protected] Email: [email protected] www.westcanadahomes.com ,-.$%&'('))*(*/&* www4.ocn.ne.jp/~adc www.pethoteltokyo.com (Japanese) | http://adc.pipi.cc (English)

www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 Photographing memories that will last a lifetime Kimono Wa Studio is a photo studio that specializes in helping its foreign customers look their best. Clients range from individuals who are looking for a unique memory to share with their friends back home to families who want to celebrate a special occasion. Along with the choice of kimono, guests can choose from several different photo plans, and even take their kimono out of the studio for the evening. It makes for a very memorable experience for visitors and long-term residents alike.

KIMONO PHOTO STUDIO (wa) 804, 2-24-13, Meguro Nishiguchi Mansion I, Kamiosaki, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo Open: 10:00-18:00 closed on Sunday and national holidays | T: 070-6455-9831 | E: [email protected] | W: www.kimono-wa.com/en

Hammered Damascus Steel—Set of 2 or 3 Damascus steel knives have a unique appearance that is immediately recogniz- Carbon Steel— able. Available in a set of two or three, Set of 2 these knives come with a hard case for easy storage or transportation. This pair of expertly crafted (set of 2: ¥17,400, set of 3: ¥27,800) carbon steel blades provides you with the perfect kitchen combination: an all-purpose knife for meat and fish, and a small vegetable knife. (¥23,300) Carbon Steel wa-santoku With edges sharp and delicate enough to shave wafer-thin slices from a piece of meat or fish, Kamata Hakensha’s carbon steel knives are a perfect example of Japa- nese style and craftsmanship. (¥8,800)

Damascus Steel with Flower Pattern The stainless, cobalt-alloy Damascus steel blade is easy to maintain and keep sharp, while the floral motif etched onto the side and the wooden, Japanese-style handle transform this practical meat and fish knife into a work of art. (¥26,800–35,800)

SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com KEIKO MATSUKAWA | FASHION | 43 Classic Neapolitan Keiko Matsukawa is bringing Italian fashion and craftsmanship to Tokyo—one elegant, custom-made suit at a time

he was born and raised case, the curves of the human body.” in , a port city Once the measurements are complete, that has long been one of the details are sent to Naples, where the Japan’s most international suits are made to exacting standards and cities; seeing large ocean sent to Japan within six to eight weeks. Sliners like the Queen Elizabeth were The garments are not inexpensive— Keiko Matsukawa’s first inspiration prices start at are ¥160,000 for the for charting a life that would send custom-made ensembles—but there are her overseas. Her first trip took her many benefits to having a garment made to England, but it was after she met to order. One is that well tailored suits some Italian exchange students that keep their shape at the end of the day and she realized that the Mediterranean hold up far better to wear over the long country beckoned. run. Another plus is that these garments While living in , she got to can play a small role in reducing the know another Japanese woman who waste generated by the ready-to-wear happened to be married to a Neapolitan fashion industry, as Matsukawa explains. tailor, and this was how she first heard “The single thing that inspired me most of Napoli Uomo Classico—the bold, about the tailor-made business was the masculine tailoring style that is one of idea of zero waste, ecologically ...[Major the hallmarks of fashion in Naples. brands] are predicting when they buy After several years abroad, from the wholesaler, but that can also Matsukawa returned to Japan, where mean that a lot of unsold goods need to be she recognized that “the way that the thrown away. With tailor-made goods, it’s Japanese fashion industry worked was completely different. The client chooses definitely not customer conscious at the fabric, and the fabric maker only cuts all. Mass production is all about being the amount needed to make the garment.” cost conscious, and fashion becomes Most importantly, even for body types disposable.” She recalled her friend that might be very difficult to dress right back in Naples, and she knew that she off the rack—along with businessmen had found a way to bring her passion and politicians, many of Avan Classico’s for artisanal production together with customers are former athletes—a custom- her love of fashion, and Avan Classico made suit is made with just one person in was born. mind: the customer. Matsukawa’s clients come directly And don’t let the thousand swatches of to her Aoyama studio for their fitting. fabric intimidate you: Keiko Matsukawa To achieve a truly individual fit, she is an expert at helping her clients find uses standard measurements along the color, pattern, and material that with sample garments for sizing. The suits them. “I’m always trying to find contours that result are all part of the somebody’s ‘beauty point,’ and build their classic look of the Italian suit, and look around their particular strengths. I as Matsukawa points out, they are want to help my customers look like even reminiscent of another famous import better versions of themselves.” from the boot-shaped nation: “Like Italian cars, Italian suits are memorable To find your perfect fit, visit: for their attention to curves—in this www.avanclassico.com/en

www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 A BUSINESS DEGREE FOR A CHANGING JAPAN McGill MBA Japan is graduating business leaders who can fit into the new global economy—and help to change it

apan’s position in the international them?’ That capacity is extremely impor- economy is changing rapidly. Until tant. And I think that our alumni are quite Courage is key, recently, the country has looked to successful in this.” the United States and Europe for its Another area where the business climate without that, you international business interests. But is changing in Japan is a gradual recognition can’t do anything. Jin recent years, global business trends have that the country needs to appreciate—and inspired the Land of the Rising Sun to face better employ—the many women who are west—towards the rest of Asia. looking to take roles with greater leadership And this is what peo- This is a dynamic that Philip O’Neill, responsibilities than they have had before. Director of McGill MBA Japan Program, has McGill MBA Japan program exemplifies ple develop through noticed, for incoming and outgoing stu- this new development. Over the years since dents alike—many of the program’s newest the program was launched in 1998, class our program. entrants hail from Asian countries, and after balance has been roughly 65 percent male to to create value for a company … it’s about they have completed their programs, McGill 35 percent female—an impressive ratio even trying to get the students to not think in si- alums often go to work in China and coun- when compared with overseas business los, but to have a more integrated approach tries in Southeast Asia. programs—while last year’s entering Class to management.” As he points out, the issues that come up of 2016 is nearly 50 percent women. We asked O’Neill what seemed to be in this new business world have very little Of course, as important as it is to rec- the common thing that McGill MBA Japan to do with accounting or the more technical ognize economic changes and the slowly grads—who have gone on to such diverse aspects of management: “How you run a shifting demographics of Japan’s workforce, paths as craft beer brewing and improving factory is pretty much the same wherever it an MBA program still needs to offer a quality the lives of factory workers overseas—have is in the world, but how you get the people to education that is grounded in the fundamen- developed over the course of their two years work in that factory is different, depending tals. McGill MBA Japan offers a curriculum in the program, and his answer was clear: on the country. If you have factory workers that combines the flexibility of Saturday and “Confidence and courage. Students learn the in China and Japan, their expectations are Sunday classes—courses meet two weekends vocabulary to be able to talk about business completely different, and their expectations during the month—with a unique multidis- and finance, so they can handle themselves will be different from those in , or Thai- ciplinary approach that allows students to in a business environment. But courage is land, or .” put business concepts into practice across key, of course: without that, you can’t do Students in McGill’s MBA program take subject boundaries and, for those students anything. And this is what people develop courses in cross-cultural management and who are working, to test those ideas out in a through our program.” global leadership, but O’Neill cautions that “working laboratory.” As O’Neill points out, there are no “one size fits all” solutions being McGill’s business curriculum, which is deliv- For more information about McGill MBA offered in the classroom. “We don’t give ered entirely in English, is built around the Japan, visit mcgillmbajapan.com cookie-cutter answers—‘you’re in Vietnam, Integrated Management concept. Rather so do this.’ It’s more along the lines of, ‘you’re than a single professor teaching a in Vietnam, so how can you understand your class about finance, several Vietnamese employees’ point of view: how professors from different do you build mutual respect and work with fields share their knowl- edge in one class, an environment that encourages students to see, “for example, how IT, finance, and economics interact

SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com Tell-print-poster-A2.pdf 1 8/20/15 2:34 PM

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 Photographer Benjamin Lee and kimono-wearing beauties at Junko Koshino's Summer Kimono Party

ike many of us, not crazy about the heat and humidity in Kristen Stewart (“Twilight”) and Guy Pearce (“The King’s Speech”) has July, August, and often well into September. But because been accepted by the Venice Film Festival. Georgia, who really knows most places, and most taxis, in Tokyo have good air condi- Tokyo, told me Roppongi is really losing its night-life image—but has tioning, I can’t really complain that much. great museums, parks, and restaurants. She said the real “in” place for L Many of my friends who live here traveled in August so I thought foreigners in the know now is Golden Gai on Yasukuni Dori behind Mr. I might get bored if I waited until Obon was over for most of the vaca- Donut, where the narrow streets are lined with all kinds of fun, tiny tioners to come back. I love traveling, but with restrictions, crowded bars: check it out. destinations, and higher prices for flights and accommodations, I de- It was nice having Asia return back in town; she’s living in L.A. cided to stick it out in old Edo, and start traveling in mid September. now and is the head of Tohokushinsha’s History Channel. My thanks to I’m happy to say with all the interesting cultural events, and so many Asia for the six-hour special series, “The World Wars.” I like this kind of interesting visitors to Japan this summer—and thanks to lots of good documentary and saw why it was nominated for three Emmy Awards. I people—I kept busy, and pretty much enjoyed it all. worked closely with Asia and her mom Kiko on the daily paper for the If you follow the column you know for me, people are what first 10 Tokyo International Film Festivals, and it was fun talking about it’s all about, and I’d like to open this column with a rundown on a all the celebs we met and sometimes crazy experiences we had. The few I enjoyed being with this summer, Let’s start out with Arnold Iretons, as we all know, are one of the film world’s most knowledgeable, Schwarzenegger who was here for Paramount to promote the latest international, and interesting families. “Terminator” film. Thanks to Bill Ireton I got to know Arnold over the In other movie news, my long-time friend and one-time business years when he was here promoting one of his many films. Arnold still partner Tsukasa Shiga, the president of Ceremony Corp., has produced looks good and seems to be doing O.K. his first big film. The two-hour film is titled “Boku Wa Bousan” (“I Am Other superstars in town included Tom Cruise, who flew in from a Monk”), and it stars popular actor Ito Atsushi. The cinematography is Korea and had two days here to promote the latest “Mission Impossi- beautiful and the film, which has English subtitles, really shows Bud- ble” for Paramount. The premiere was Sunday, August 2, in Shinjuku. dhism as few of us know it. If you’re interested in one of the invitational It was really hot that day, and I just didn’t feel like getting caught up screenings let me know. in what I knew would be a huge crowd of Tom’s fans. My thanks to Soka Gakkai’s Min-On Concert Association for so many Ran into film producer Georgina Pope at National Azabu recent- invitations to so many international cultural shows. The most recent was ly and the Aussie lady looked cool with a new red spiked hairdo. a performance of the dance drama “Crested Isis” by 70 members of the Georgina’s been busy with the casting and shooting of the U.S. TV Shanghai Dance Theater at NHK Hall. The costumes, the sets, and the series “Girls.” I’m also happy to hear her film “Equals,” starring dancers—and their grace and skill—were awesome.

SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 47

1 2 3

4 5 6

7 8 9

10 11 12

Italian National Day—An Elegant Affair Amb. Abdul Al-Otaibi 8. Jamila Al-Otaiba, Uruguay Amb. and Señora Eduardo 1. Koko Volpicelli, Rita Giorgio (Italy), Dewi Sukarno 2. Top Italian Food Caterer, Bouzout 9. Honda Pumps’ Yusuke Ryuzoji, his mother Reiko, wife Emi and Giorgio Matera; Segafredos’ “Man in Japan” (and Asia), Brian Mori; Amb. daughter, Mina. Domenico Giorgio 3. Italian Amb. Giorgio, Dewi Sukarno 4. Actor Hide Kusakari, Prince Konoe, movie director Masato Harada, his wife Mizuho 5. Segafredo’s In & Around popular Brian Mori and friends. 10. Greg and Crystal Goodfliesh at Midtown 11. Tracy Owens, her lawyer daugh- ter Ashleigh, her grand daughter Mari at Hiroo Segafredo 12. Irish Deputy Head Jordanian Reception at The Okura of Mission Diarmuid O’Leary, his wife Emma, their sons Liam and Owen at 6. Egyptian doctor Nadia El Borai, Hisanaga and Takako Shimazu 7. Jordanian Midtown. Amb. Demiye Haddad, Jamilah Al-Otaibi (Kuwait), Shafik Haddad, Kuwaiti

www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 48 | SOCIETY | PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES

1 2 3

4 5

6 7 8

9 10 11

12 13 14

Lopez’s Super Independence Reception Minister of Health, Labor, and Welfare; Amb. Lopez 8. Fmr. PM Nakasone’s son Hiro- 1. Newly arrived Philippines Airlines Japan Mgr. Antonio D. Herrera, his exec. staff fume, who’s a popular politician; Ceremony Pres./CEO Tsukasa Shiga. Catherine Tan 2. Kyoko Spector, Nicaraguan Amb. Saul Castellon, Jamaican Amb. and Mrs. Clement Philip Ricardo Allicock, Jordanian Amb. Haddad 3. TV Travel Documen- Junko’s Summer Kimono Party tary Legend Kaoru ”Rose” Kanetaka & friend, conductor Robert Ryker, his wife Mari 4. 9. Junko Koshino, Anthony Gourmel (Baron Rothschild Orient), his wife Chiharu, their Diet Member Kenji Kosaka, Philippine Amb. Manuel Lopez, Teruo Asada, Chairman of son 10. Junko and renowned French Painter Marcestel 11. Junko’s husband, photogra- Marubeni Corporation 5. Albanian Amb. Bujar Dida, APA Hotel’s owner Toshio Motoya, pher Hiroyuki Suzuki; French journalist, Florent Dabadie 12. Hiroyuki and Junko’s son Afghan Amb. Sayed M. Amin Fatimie, Amb., Fumiko Motoya 6. Anna Castellon (Nicara- Yoriyuki, their friend 13. Dewi’s manager Tony, Junko, make-up artist Tsubasa Arima gua), Maria Teresa Lopez (Philippines), Amb. Saul Castellon 7. Yasuhisa Shiozaki, 14. Living the good life, Junko style.

SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 49

In closing this long opening of this column, I’d like to remind you was wall-to-wall people in the light and bright Fuji room that evening. of the College Women’s Association of Japan’s (CWAJ) annual print Guests included a great variety of interesting VIPs from all walks of show at the Tokyo American Club, from October 30 to November 1. It’s life. The Filipina ladies were all super chic in their elegant national a great way to help young artists fulfill their dreams. dress—the terno, and the Filipino men in their Barong Tagalog shirts. The program opened with a warm and informative welcome ITALIAN NATIONAL DAY WITH THE GIORGIAS speech by Ambassador Lopez. This was followed by congratulatory Mother Nature was kind and it was a beautiful evening in every way speeches by two high-ranking Japanese dignitaries. After this, guests for Italian Ambassador Domenico Giorgio and his wife Rita’s glittering moved to the beautiful buffet of delicious Philippine favorites. The reception. The occasion was Italy’s National Day, and was held at the Imperial’s food and beverage department had done an excellent job spacious, chic residence with its huge, beautiful garden. working with the embassy staff. Guests included top Japanese government officials, diplomats, The people of the Philippines love music and dancing and they are business leaders, and familiar faces from the entertainment, fashion, often called the musicians of the Far East. At the entrance to the re- and art worlds. It was nice seeing and chatting with long-time Italian ception there were several girls—all, of course, in ternos—who played friends like Koko Volpicelli and Japanese film director and Mrs. guitars and sang. They were really good. I can say the same about a Masato Harada, whose latest film, “The Emperor in August,” opened group of Japanese university students who were into doing Filipino a few days later. folk dancing. They put on a very energetic and enjoyable show. The main buffet had been planned and prepared by leading Italian I’ve said this many times over the years: Do yourself and your chefs and caterers, such as Giorgio Matera and Elio. It was truly Italian family a favor and take them to the Philippines while you’re in this food at its best. For dessert there was a variety of gelato flavors, and part of the world. You’ll love the natural beauty, the people, the food, Segafredo Espresso’s man in Japan (and Asia), Brian, had worked with the shopping and the hospitality. I’ve been there 32 times, shot men’s his and the embassy’s staff in setting up a very special and popular fashion pages for a Japanese mag on location all around the country, Segafredo espresso bar. gone to film festivals and many fiestas, and made great Filipino friends As I mentioned, the weather was beautiful and many of the guests from all walks of life. If you don’t believe me, ask world traveler Lilo moved from the residence to the garden where small white tents were Maruyama. It’s one of her favorite getaways. serving food, and comfortable furniture to relax in was everywhere. It was a lovely, laid-back affair that went well into the evening. JUNKO NEVER SLOWS DOWN Whenever I get an invitation from fashion designer Junko Koshino I JORDAN RECEPTION—OKURA HOTEL know that whatever it is, it’s going to be very special. Just over the last I’ve known Jordanian Ambassador Demiye Haddad for a long time. few months, I’ve been to a summer party where most of the guests Our friendship goes back to when he was first posted here as Ambas- were wearing one of her new line of or yukatas, and a perfor- sador so many years ago. Thanks to the late great minister of foreign mance by the fantastic dynamic TAO drummers (she did the costumes) affairs, Zentaro Kosaka, I had the privilege of meeting Jordan’s highly as well as an after party to meet with the cast and VIP guests. Her respected King Abdullah II Ibn Al Hussein while he was still a prince. I biggest recent project in Beijing was, from all reports, a spectacular had a marvelous 10-day visit to Jordan and enjoyed every minute of it. show that not only showed off her latest collection, but really was a Actor Harrison Ford had told me about the ancient city of Petra where panorama of Japanese culture that attracted thousands of Chinese he worked on the film “Indiana Jones,” so I made sure to visit there. fashion, art and cultural fans to a tremendous show. I truly regretted Egyptian actor Omar Sharif had told me about Wadi Rum where he not being able to go there, but as a friend and fan of Junko, I’m sure spent six months on location for “Lawrence of Arabia,” so I got off the she’ll continue doing all kinds of worthwhile events all over the world. beaten path and spent two nights in the desert there. That, my friends, was a real adventure. Here in Tokyo on June 15, Demiye and his lovely ARTISTS’ PARTY AT OAKWOOD MIDTOWN wife hosted a reception at the Okura Hotel’s Ascot Hall to celebrate Thanks to international art guru Norman Tolman, I was invited to the 16th anniversary of Jordanian King Abdullah II’s accession to the Oakwood for an exhibition of paintings by Mayumi Oda, who is known throne and the 69th Independence Day of the Hashemite Kingdom as the “Matisse of Japan.” Mayumi, who was born to a Buddhist family of Jordan. It was a light bright evening with lots of good friends. Our in Japan, has done extensive work with female goddess imagery. I congratulations to all concerned. was really impressed with her paintings, which are very strong and very colorful. In addition to her work as an accomplished artist she’s a PHILIPPINES 117TH INDEPENDENCE CELEBRATION global activist participating in anti-nuclear campaigns world- The Philippines Ambassador and Mrs. Manuel Lopez hosted wide. The busy, talented lady’s other projects include Ginger a beautiful reception in the Imperial Hotel’s Fuji Room. Hill Farm and Retreat Center on the big island of Hawaii. The occasion was in commemoration of the 117th anni- As always at Oakwood, it was an evening of interesting versary of the declaration of Philippine Independence. It people, good food, and a totally relaxed mood.

Student Pendlebury (right) and his friend Rusak, Norman Tolman and artist Mayumi Oda Claudia the Singer and Sebastian the who is visiting from Moscow Cinematographer at Hiroo Segafredo

www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 COMING TO A CINEMA NEAR YOU IN SEPTEMBER

SEP 12 PIXELS ver since ”Super Mario Bros.” was adapted into a disastrous big Escreen flop in 1993, the relationship between movies and games has never been easy. Could “Pixels” be the movie to change all that? Well, seeing as it’s an Adam Sandler vehicle, probably not. Sandler aside, there’s some great talent in the cast and an interesting premise based on an award- winning 2010 short film. Aliens are attacking the earth after picking up feeds of 80s arcade classics and misinterpreting them as an act of war. Now the aliens have mobilized in the form of Pac-Man, the Space Invaders, Donkey Kong, Galaga and other villainous sprites. Formerly arcade-obsessed youths—Sandler, Kevin James, Josh Gad, and Peter Dinklage (“Game of Thrones”) are called up to battle the intergalactic menace. Even Japan’s own Pac-Man creator Toru Iwatani turns up for a cameo. Chris Colombus, who was busy writing “The Goonies” and “Gremlins” at the time these games were around, directs the action as the game characters descend on the world’s major cities. Nostalgic fun and colorful effects may not be enough to save the film if the human characters are as 2D as the pixels of a retro-arcade unit. ST. VINCENT SEP 28 SEP 26 t’s been a while since “Ghostbusters” legend Bill Murray had a full starring Irole to which he could lend his full comedic talents, so “St. Vincent” comes as a timely reminder of his deadpan cool and sardonic wit. Murray plays Vincent, an unpleasant, chain-smoking, heavy-drinking old man with a taste for strippers and gambling. When new neighbor and single SAN ANDREAS mother Melissa McCarthy (“Bridesmaids”) is GONIN SAGA an Andreas” offers old-school disaster forced to leave her young son Oliver in the irector Takashi Ishii returns to his most movie action in the mold of 70s classics care of the bitter old curmudgeon, he turns famous film, 1995’s blood-soaked cult S“The Towering Inferno” and “The out to be an unlikely friend and mentor Dthriller “Gonin,” for a second sequel. Poseidon Adventure” as California is torn to the boy. The pair are joined in their The original saw five men, all victims of Japan’s apart by a devastating earthquake. Never fear, adventures around various strip clubs, bars post-bubble economic collapse, band together air rescue pilot Duane “The Rock” Johnson is and racetracks by Naomi Watts’s pregnant to take on the yakuza thugs making their lives on the scene, navigating the collapsing city stripper Daka, as Vincent reveals himself to hell. The film notably starred an eye-patch wearing Beat Takeshi—a consequence of the with estranged wife Emma (Carla Gugino) in be a better man than he first appears. real-life motorcycle accident that happened tow as they attempt to find and rescue their prior to filming. “Gonin Saga” sees five more daughter. Forget the lightweight plot: this film unfortunates brought together for another is all about the spectacle as buildings crumble SEP 4 tale of sex, violence and revenge. While some and whole cities are destroyed by the high- of the original cast return, starring roles magnitude earthquakes ripping along the San have been passed on to the next generation. Andreas fault. Johnson, currently enjoying Masanobu Ando plays ambitious gang his status as one of Hollywood’s biggest stars member Seiji while Tasuku Emoto appears thanks to successful appearances in the “Fast as a journalist investigating the events of and Furious” films, gets to flex his muscles the previous film. Singer, actress and model and save the likes of Ioan Gruffud, Paul Anna Tsuchiya and “The Wolverine’s” Rila Giamatti and Kylie Minogue. Fukushima also appear.

SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com PREVIEWS | MOVIES | 51 SEP 19 Le” side: •Silvery Harty˜, aluminum foil, 78cm × 46cm × 4cm Right side: •Please play this song on the Radio˜, aluminum foil, 40cm × 50cm × 20cm

ANT-MAN

nt-Man may not be the sort of impressive moniker you’d expect Marvel to be bringing to the big screen, but he has A been a comics mainstay since his inception in 1962 and was even one of the founding members of super-group the Avengers when they premiered the following year. In this first film incarnation it’s up to Scott Lang to don the hero’s helmet. Lang (Paul Rudd) is a well meaning, down-on-his-luck thief who takes the wrong job and winds up behind bars. After a visit from genius inventor Hank Pym (Michael Douglas) Lang gets the opportunity to turn his life around. Putting on Pym’s special suit allows the would-be-hero to shrink down to Mayu Shiomi microscopic size, control ants and get to places no other super-being Aoyama Cemetary Nogisaka Station

Gaien West St. WestGaien CAPRICIOUS WORLD

Gaien East St. Gaien Saturday 12th September- Sunday 27th September can reach. Espionage action ensues as the suited-up Ant-Man must The National Art Center, Tokyo Opening Hours: 12:00 - 19:00 | Closed: Mondays Hokkaien infiltrate Pym’s former company and take on his mentor’s villainous National Graduate Institute for Policy Studies Opening Reception: Friday Septmeber 11th from 18:00 onwards protégé, Darren Cross. “Ant-Man” plays on the character’s stature— To Shibuya Gonpachi Roppongi Dori Roppongi Station Nishi-Azabu Intersection there’s plenty of tongue-in-cheek comedy—while retaining the fast- NANATASU GALLERY Roppongi Hills 〒 paced mix of drama and action expected of Marvel. Mori Art Museum 106-0031 Tokyo, Minato-ku, Nishi-Azabu 2-12-4 Ogura building 3F Hiroo Station Tel: 03-6419-7229 | Web: www.nanatasu.jp

SEP 11

EXPERIENTIAL TOURS IN ENGLISH IN TOKYO AREA

KINGSMAN: THE SECRET SERVICE When you want

ilmmaker Matthew Vaughn has a good track record of to show visitors comic-book adaptations with “Kick-Ass” and “X-Men: First the REAL Japan FClass” under his belt. He returns to doing what he does best with “Kingsman: The Secret Service,” an adaptation of a comic but don’t have series from “Kick-Ass” scribe Mark Millar and “Watchmen” artist Dave Gibbons. A fast-paced action comedy, “Kingsman” sees the time consummate British gent Colin Firth star as Harry Hart, an elite member of a top-secret intelligence agency. Newcomer Taron Half- or full-day small groups Egerton plays “Eggsy,” an aimless street youth Hart recruits into the spy organization to train for a place amongst the agents. When tours offered on regular a twisted villain emerges to threaten global security it’s up to schedule or by arrangement young Eggsy and crew to save the day. Michael Caine, Samuel L. Jackson, and Mark Hamill join the cast in this action-packed send- Zazen, Food, Subcultures, Tea up of Bond and Bourne. Ceremony, Crafts & More

www.tokyoway.jp 03-4520-5429 [email protected]

www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 AGENDA SEPTEMBER 1

2 3

4 6 7 8

5 AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN SEPTEMBER

1 SEP 27 2 SEP 14 3 SEP 12 4 SEP 5 UFC Fight Night Japan Tyler, the Creator Tokyo Fashion’s Monobloco Japan Tour Headliners for the event Known for his and dark and Night Out Thirteen of the finest will be the heavyweight often controversial lyrics, Join the swarm of models, musicians from the brawlers at the top of the card, Roy Tyler’s one of the brightest lights on the fashionistas, fashion editors, paparaz- sizable group are making the trip this Nelson and Josh Barnett, and it prom- rap scene right now—catch him live zi and designers as they flood the time around, mixing rock, pop, hip ises to be a wild evening. in Ebisu. swanky boutiques of Omotesando. hop and soul with the samba sound. Where: Saitama Super Arena, Saitama Where: Liquid Room, Shibuya Where: Omotesando-Harajuku-Aoyama Where: Liquid Room, Shibuya How Much: ¥4,800 (A)–100,000 (VIP) How Much: ¥7,000 How Much: Free How much: ¥3,500–7,500 More info: www.tokyoweekender.com More info: www.creativeman.co.jp More info: www.vogue.co.jp/fno/ More info: www.liquidroom.net

5 SEP 10 6 SEP 13-14 7 SEP 11-13 8 SEP 8-17 TELL Talkie Walkie Vietnam Festival Festa do Brasil World Breakfast Festival Help raise awareness abou Food aficionados, this one’s Plenty of music, dancing and Feast on the most impor- the battle to help prevent for you: numerous food good times to get you into the tant meal of the day with suicide by joining a walk—or creating booths serving all the staples, such carnival spirit, along with Brazilian pancakes, acai bowls, granola, Eggs your own—on World Suicide Preven- as pho, fried spring rolls, banh mi BBQ Churrasco and a variety of rum- Benedict and English muffins from local tion Day. (baguette sandwiches) and banh xeo based cocktails. and international names. Where: Various locations across Japan (savory pancakes). Where: Sunshine City, Ikebukuro Where: Showa Kinen Park, Tachikawa How Much: ¥1,800 donation Where: Yoyogi Park | How much: Free How Much: Free How Much: ¥600 (adv.) ¥800 (door) More info: www.tellwalkandtalk.com More info: www.vietnamfes.net More info: www.sunshine-brasil.com More info: www.chousyokufes.com

SEPTEMBER 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER | AGENDA | 53 SEPTEMBER

9

10

11 PUT A SPRING IN YOUR STEP THIS SUMMER WITH A SPRING RACK OF LAMB

Beginning this month, and for 12 a limited time only*, enjoy a succulent spring rack of lamb from Outback Premium 9 SEP 4-6 10 SEP 19-21 Tokyo Jazz Festival Ultra Japan * Available until September 30th Esperanza Spalding, The Miami-based electron- Jack DeJohnette, Herbie ic music festival is crossing Hancock, and Wayne Shorter are the pond with the likes of Kaskade, We use the finest, juiciest grass-fed just a few of the names to watch for Mark Knight, Fredde Le Grand, lamb, which is briefly aged for four weeks in order to during this long weekend of tunes. Umek, Hardwell, and Axwell. achieve the best possible flavor. The lamb is seasoned Where: Tokyo International Forum Where: Odaiba Ultra Park, Odaiba How Much: Varies How Much: ¥13,000–39,000 with a special mix of spices and grilled, allowing the More info: www.tokyo-jazz.com More info: www.ultrajapan.com unique richness of the dish to come through. It is served alongside mashed potatoes and an assortment 11 SEP 26-27 12 SEP 15-23 of steamed seasonal vegetables. Namaste India Festival Belgian Beer Weekend The seminar sessions of Sample over 60 kinds of this exchange event are different beers, including not to be missed: you can participate in hard-to-find brands and specialties, a yoga workshop or learn how to draw along with some Euro-themed fare. with henna. Where: Roppongi Hills, Minato Where: Yoyogi Park How Much: Starter set: ¥3,100 How Much: Free More info: www.belgianbeerweekend.jp More info: www.indofestival.com

www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2015 BACK IN THE DAY: SEPTEMBER 1974 Check out the scene in Tokyo from 1974! You can read the rest of this issue (No.36 1974) and view Weekender’s 45-year archive online. www.tokyoweekender.com/ weekender-archives/