Stories in Stone Chittorgarh Text and Photographs: Discover India Program (DIP), Chittorgarh Group Foundation for Liberal and Management Education (FLAME)
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Stories in Stone Chittorgarh Text and photographs: Discover India Program (DIP), Chittorgarh Group Foundation for Liberal and Management Education (FLAME) Here’s where history has left its footprints deep in stone and the air is light with the breath of romance, beauty and chivalry. Within the walls of this gigantic fort, drama after drama has been played out, leaving behind the lingering fragments of legends. 38 Heritage India August 2010 - October 2010 Volume 3 Issue 3 Heritage India August 2010 - October 2010 Volume 3 Issue 3 39 History says that the Chittor fort in southern consolidated his forces and established Mewar, making Vijay Stambha (Victory tower) Rajasthan was built by Bappa Rawal in the 8th century Chittorgarh the kingdom’s first capital. From the 8th to CE and it served as the capital of Mewar until it was the 16th century CE, Bappa Rawal’s descendants ruled invaded by Akbar. Its imperial presence was enhanced over Mewar from Chittorgarh. The fort has witnessed by the fact that it sat atop a 180 m high hill, imposing the illustrious rule of kings like Rana Kumbha and Rana and impregnable. However, its numerous elements Sanga. were not just put in place at the start but instead built over the centuries of its occupation. It was equipped The first defeat befell Chittorgarh in 1303 when with defence and civic buildings that were protected Ala-ud-din Khilji, the Sultan of Delhi, besieged the fort, by endless walls with recurring bastions. Sprawling to capture the beautiful Rani Padmini, wife of Rana over 289 hectares, Chittorgarh was a centre of trade, Ratan Singh. It is said that Rani Padmini’s beauty had commerce and administration of a kingdom situated enticed Ala-ud-din Khilji to invade Chittorgarh. This close to a highway. The fort, encompassing beautiful resulted in a battle between Khilji and Ratan Singh. The temples, imposing royal palaces, commanding towers fort was under siege for seven months. It is believed and hundreds of ruins, is an echo of a past that was that when both sides were exhausted, Ala-ud-din Khilji glorious in its reaches and rich in its architecture and crafted a sly plan. He asked Ratan Singh for a glimpse traditions. In fact, legend associates the place with the of his wife Rani Padmini in return of lifting the siege great epic Mahabharata- this is where Bhima struck the over Chittor. Khilji was taken into Padmini’s palace in ground so hard that water gushed out to form a large the midst of a lake and Padmini’s reflection was shown reservoir. to him in a mirror as she sat down on the steps of the Jal mahal. Khilji then asked Rana Ratan Singh to Recorded data claims that the fort dates back accompany him to the last gate of the fort where he was to 8th century CE when Bappa Rawal received it as a outnumbered and captured by the Sultan’s army. Khilji dowry from Maan Mori. But who was Bappa Rawal? demanded Padmini in return of her husband’s freedom. Well, his origins are disputed, but it is widely held that Padmini sent 700 palanquins of soldiers disguised as during threatening attacks of invasions from Arabs he women along with two of her brothers- Gora and Badal. was brought up as a Brahmin in a hermitage, where A battle ensued between the two and the soldiers of he used to take care of the cattle. Once as he reared Chittor embraced death fighting, while Rani Padmini his cows, sage Harita chanced upon him and predicted and other women jumped into burning pyres. that he would become a Chattrapati. Eventually, he Ogee pointed arches in Bhamashah haveli 40 Heritage India August 2010 - October 2010 Volume 3 Issue 3 Heritage India August 2010 - October 2010 Volume 3 Issue 3 41 Suraj pol Kumbha palace 42 Heritage India August 2010 - October 2010 Volume 3 Issue 3 Heritage India August 2010 - October 2010 Volume 3 Issue 3 43 concept of building a palace in the middle of a water in the fierceness of Surya’s archers driving away the body has its origins here. darkness, the grace of horses marching ahead and the swing in Sun god’s charioteer, Arun’s whip. The wind Rana Ratan Singh’s Palace is located away god Vayu, one of the deities that guard directions, is from other monuments and is one of the few places beautifully represented with the flow of his hair and that have been restored. It is accompanied by a temple flutter of wind in his banner. At present, the shrine that has numerous sculptures of goddesses, which houses an image of goddess Kalika. Hundreds of have been forgotten in time with their names written devotees from the nearby settlements visit this temple in Devanagiri. every day. There are a large number of temples in the fort, The Kumbha-Shyam complex is famous for most of which are Hindu, while a few are Jain. Since its Meera and Krishna temples as they reinforce the the Rajputs considered themselves to be Suryavanshis, longevity of the fort in the legends it harbours. The the Sun god had been one of the most prominent deities Kumbha temple that was originally dedicated to the of medieval times. Kalika Mata temple was originally Varaha avatar of Vishnu has a dome which is studded built in honour of Surya. It was constructed in the 11th with icons of Varaha, Vishnu and other gods. Chittorgarh century and is a stunning work of art with its beautiful not only patronised Hinduism but as trade grew and sculptures. The artists’ imaginations have been trapped Jain merchants gained prominence in power and wealth, Jainism was patronised too. In fact, there are many beautiful and elaborate Jain temples in the fort. The Jain temple close to Kirti Stambha is a splendid example of medieval temple architecture with anekanda type of Bhim lat talab nagara shikhara (northern style of temple tower) and In 1533 CE, during the rule of Bikramjeet came walls studded with beautiful sculptures. the second attack from Bahadur Shah, the Sultan of Since the fort was always under the threat of Gujarat. Once again jauhar was led by Rani Karanavati, siege, it had to be well equipped with a strong water a Bundi princess. Her infant son, Udai Singh, was supply to sustain it for a long time. This supply was smuggled out of Chittor to Bundi and survived to inherit provided by eighty-four water bodies which consisted of the throne. He was saved by his nurse, Panna Dhai, who natural lakes and artificial reservoirs - inspiring people sacrificed her own son to save the crown prince to call it a ‘water fort’. Interestingly, the reservoirs have The final ransacking of Chittor came a few been built at different levels in order to minimise water seepage and they are generally built close to residences, decades later, in 1568 when the Mughal emperor Shiva temple close to VIjay stambha along fortified walls and bastions Akbar captured the fort. Maharana Udai Singh II fled palaces and havelis. The storage capacity of the water to Udaipur where he re-established his capital. Akbar carried away all the distinctive pieces of architecture and sculpture and placed them in his capital. Rana Structure overlooking Jal mahal on its posterior side. It is similar to the one Pratap, the legendary king, made the last effort to through which Khilji was shown a glimpse of Rani Padmini win back Chittor, but he never succeeded and died a to be the oldest authentic palace, can be approached warrior’s death, like many of his ancestors. The sun had through two gates, Badipol and Tripol that face east. set on the glory of Chittorgarh, which has since been The palace is an architectural marvel consisting of lying mostly in ruins. administrative areas such as the diwan-e-khaas and diwan-e-aam and residential apartments for kings and The fort has been built over a long period of queens accompanied by servants’ quarters. What may time. The fortified walls, which stretch all around the go unnoticed in this palace is the excellent drainage top of the hill, encompass a variety of monuments system consisting of narrow channels covered with ranging from palaces, havelis and temples to bazaars, stone slabs and small bathrooms. The Kumbha palace towers and water reservoirs. Protected by a series of has been a residence for most of the kings that ruled seven gates that were well guarded during the ancient over Chittorgarh. times, the fort proved to be unassailable. These gates are locally known as pol. Padmini’s palace, known as Jal Mahal, is a small residence set in the middle of a lake, forming a Perhaps, the most magnificent monuments in perfect place for comfort during the scorching summers the fort are palaces such as those of Rana Kumbha, of Rajasthan. One is instantly reminded of the massive Padmini and Ratan Singh II. Kumbha’s palace, said lake palace of Udaipur, built much later. Probably the Ruined walls of Kumbha palace overlooking the government museum of Chittorgarh 44 Heritage India August 2010 - October 2010 Volume 3 Issue 3 Heritage India August 2010 - October 2010 Volume 3 Issue 3 45 But recently another centre of learning has been unearthed near Nalanda. The place is known as Telhara, a small village in Hilsa subdivision, 29 km west of Nalanda district headquarters. The excavations carried out by Bihar State Department of Archaeology, were at a place called Bulandi mound, which is 350 feet high. Preliminary excavation at the site has led to the discovery of pottery and images belonging to the Gupta period (5th century CE) and to the later Pala period (9th – 10th century CE).