SEP’ 2012
Japan’s premier English language magazine Since 1970
EAT TOKYO! LET WEEKENDER TAKE YOU ON A CULINARY TOUR OF THE CITY
AGENDA CYC L I N G INTERVIEWS We select the biggest We meet the women Fashion designer shows, events and parties shaking up the Neil Barratt and in September velodrome in Japan Electrolux Japan GM
ALSO IN THIS ISSUE: The Latest APAC news from the Asia Daily Wire, People Parties & Places with Bill Hersey and much more... Tokyo_Weekender Dergisi.pdf 1 22.08.2012 14:51
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SEPTEMBER 2012 CONTENTS 21
EAT TOKYO Penniless or loaded, we have got some
serious recommendations for you.
14 30 19
GIRLS KEIRIN CAKES IN TOKYO NEIL BARRETT Women are taking to the velodrome and Got a sweet tooth? Us too - check out a From London to Milan to Tokyo, the challenging a very masculine world. selection of our sugar high favourites. British designer talks to Weekender.
11 Asia Daily Wire 24 & 28 Top Chinese Dining 36 People, Parties, Places A roundup of all the top APAC news of the Peking Duck with over 100 years of tradition What’s going on on the Tokyo social past month. and more fine Chinese food in Ginza. scene? With Bill Hersey.
12 Electrolux 32 Eels 42 Agenda How can the Swedish company get ahead Oak flamed Nagoya style unagi in Tokyo It’s almost safe to leave the sanctity of in the Japanese market? slips down very nicely indeed. your air-con so get out there and enjoy! 22 The Gyoza Hunter 34 Screen 44 Back in the Day Philip Kendall will stop at nothing in Worth the wait? A few good reasons to A snapshot of Weekender from 1982. pursuit of the perfect Gyoza. head to the cinema this month. SEPTEMBER 2012
Publisher Bulbous Cell Media Group Chairman Ray Pedersen Executive Producer Asi Rinestine
Editor Matthew Holmes Art Director Liam Ramshaw
Business Development Director Kotaro Toda Senior Sales Executive Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa Account Executive Ohad Elbaz
Media Consultants Mary Rudow Matthew Hernon Web Consultant Greg Culos
Society Bill Hersey
Editorial Associates Annamarie Sasagawa, Vivian Morelli, Ayako Fujiwara, Christopher O’Keeffe, Mace Bertumen, Jun Mooney
IT Manager Nick Adams Development Manager Stephane Boudoux Finance & Admin Vika Maslyuk Web Development Amit Raj Baral DBA Iryna Sundutova
FREE EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 Published by Bulbous Cell Media Group www.bulbouscell.com
Published monthly at the Regency Shinsaka Building, 5th floor SPACE 8-5-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 (03) 6846-5615 / (03) 6846-5616 (fax) [email protected]
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Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher
SEP’ 2012
Japan’s premier English language magazine Since 1970
EAT TOKYO! Follow Tokyo Weekender on Twitter: LET WEEKENDER TAKE YOU ON A CULINARY TOUR OF THE CITY @weekenderjapan
AGENDA CYCLING INTERVIEWS We select the biggest We meet the women Fashion designer shows, events and parties shaking up the Neil Barratt and in September velodrome in Japan Electrolux Japan GM Like us on Facebook:
ALSO IN THIS ISSUE: The Latest APAC news from the Asia Daily Wire, People Parties & Places with Bill Hersey and much more... www.facebook.com/tokyo.weekender
ASIA DAILY WIRE | NEWS | 11
> COMPILATION Islands of Confusion:
Japanese government offers $2bn for islands Japan has reportedly entered negotiations for a $2bn purchase of the Senkaku islands, administered by Japan since 1895, from the Kurihara family, who own four of the five islands and lease them to the government.
Hong Kong activists given heroes’ welcome Seven Hong Kong activists who sia Daily Wire is your go-to place for all the latest news from across the attempted to plant a Chinese flag Asia Pacific region. Covering business, culture, entertainment, sports on the Senkaku islands, known as Diaoyu in China, returned home. and breaking news, Asia Daily Wire is updated round the clock in real Their boat, “Defend the Diaoyu” time and picks and chooses the best headlines from sources across II, had been detained by the Asia—doingA all the hard work for you. Here is a roundup of some of the ADW Japanese Coast Guard. Editor’s picks from the past month... S.Korea turns down Japan’s ICJ joint suit proposal South Korea has turned down Man mistakes Japanese Japan’s proposal to resolve the son for monkey journalist two countries’ territorial dispute through legal measures, reports and shoots him killed in Syria the Asahi Shimbun. Japan will A Nepalese man Veteran war take the case to the international has shot and killed correspondent tribunal unilaterally. his 12 year old son, Mika Yamamoto Japan TV suspends S. Korean drama mistaking him for one of the monkeys he was of The Japan Press was killed in the field trying to drive away from his crops. Monkeys in Aleppo. She was fatally wounded by A TV station announced it would pull a South Korean drama a are a menace to the man’s maize and his son crossfire on August 20 while travelling with week before its airing. South was helping him by climbing a nearby tree the rebel Free Syrian Army. The 45-year old Korean actor Song Il Guk had when Gupta Bahadur opened fire. Nepali specialized in conflict zone coverage and joined a relay swim to the islands farmers rarely shoot monkeys to kill as the covered the war in Afghanistan and the US known as Dokdo in South Korea and Takeshima in Japan. creatures are thought to be sacred. invasion of Iraq in 2003. China protesters smash Japanese made police cars India mobile Indian PM aims Protesters smashed up a Honda- users: “only 5 for Mars made police car in Shenzen messages a day” Prime Minister and businesses with Japanese In an attempt to Singh announced connections were attacked across “deter the spread his plan to China as activists from Japan landed on a disputed island to of rumours and commission a stake their claim. hate messages of the kind that led to high-tech space mission to Mars, saying, “This panic among people from the Northeast,” spaceship to Mars will be a huge step for us Chinese media attacks US-Japan Senkaku drill according to the Times of India, the in the area of science and technology.” With Chinese media attacked a military government has ordered citizens, for the blackouts and corruption controversies in drill between the US and Japan next 12 days, not to send more than five their midst, Indians criticized the government which saw 2,000 US Marines and 40 Japanese troops taking SMSs a day. Rumours of unrest caused and urged it to instead focus instead on basic part in exercises on the islands 30,000 people to flee Bangalore in panic. infrastructure and sanitation. of Guam and Tinian, including a simulation of an island assault. Navigation Philippines pull through together for South Korea to remove part of monument Northern Sea recover from South Korea has said it will remove part of a monument it Development is floods constructed on Takeshima, an fast on the heels Twelve days of island also claimed by Japan. The of global warming non-stop monsoon monument was built without as the receding Arctic ice paves the way rains submerged the Philippine capital, permission but a Republic of for international trade. The Northern Sea forcing millions to flee their homes and Korea engraving will remain. Route, which traverses the Arctic Circle, killing at least 11 people. Through Twitter, reduces the distance between Europe and authorities were able to get information on East Asia by 40%. According to Norway- rescue operations and missing persons but based Tschudi Shipping Co., vessels use the the lack of disaster management has For all the big news of 2012 1,000 tons less fuel and the journey costs seriously cramped the situation in most updated live, visit: $650,000 less than the Suez Canal route. areas. www.asiadailywire.com 12 | BUSINESS | ELECTROLUX
INTERVIEW: “We’ve had vacuums that have been quiet before (the Ultra Silencer), and ones that have had a lot of power (the Ultra-one), but no-one up until now has managed to combine those two features in to something so compact. We are not talking very small, it weighs just under 4 ½ kilograms so it is an acceptable size that ELECTROLUX the Japanese consumer wants. How can the Swedes compete with Japanese makers on their home turf? The unique thing about this vacuum was that By Matthew Hernon apart from the Swedish designers, nobody outside Japan was allowed to have any input A global leader in household appliances, So why have Electrolux struggled to make in to it. This is the first time we have done Electrolux is most famous for inventing an impact in Japan? Of course fierce something like this. At the moment it is just the first domestic use vacuum cleaner. competition hasn’t helped. Domestic brands being sold here, but it will soon go on sale in Celebrating its 100th anniversary such as Toshiba, Panasonic and Hitachi Korea, Taiwan and Europe.” this year, the company is well known dominate the market, while in terms of throughout the world for its innovative vacuum cleaner sales, they are also well Thom is determined to make Electrolux a and durable products, yet for Japanese behind rivals Dyson, who sell major player in Japan, a country he consumers it is a largely unfamiliar around a quarter of million believes has enormous potential. brand. That is something that CEO vacuums in Japan annually. A year “There are good opportunities Gordon Thom would like to change. Electrolux sell only a for foreign companies here. Weekender recently met with the affable few thousand. Thom, ago less then You must get the right Scotsman to discuss his strategies on who used to work for one percent of the product and then find a way breaking this difficult market. Dyson, is relishing the Japanese population of explaining why it is better challenge of catching than others. I love Japanese “I joined the company around a year and them up and believes had heard of us. consumers. They are very a half ago and quickly realized that we strategic changes could It is now up near interested in learning about had to change the way we went about eventually help them the product and they will take things,” says Thom. “Our annual sales are achieve that. to 10% time to understand it, then they around 40 Million (units) in 150 countries, will be prepared to buy it. yet Japan accounted for just 0.4% of that “There is stiff competition in every revenue. It is incredibly low in a Nation industry, so we can’t use that as an excuse. That doesn’t mean that we should act like a where consumer spending is so high. It The biggest problem when I arrived here Japanese company. There is no point in foreign was obvious that should have been doing was that we weren’t in the mass appliance affiliated companies trying to do that. It just much better here.” retail stores,” he tells Weekender. “Shops doesn’t work. One of my biggest challenges like Yodobashi Camera, Bic Camera and when I came here was trying to change that Yamada Denki sell 80% of the domestic mindset. I think there are real advantages to appliances in Japan and we weren’t there! being foreign. There is no consensus building, It didn’t take a genius to work out what this gives us more agility. If someone has a we needed to do, so we changed good idea then we go and create it, simple. I strategy and got in to those retailers.” can also be more blunt in meetings than my Japanese colleagues. This works well with The effects were immediate. Brand some buyers, not so well with others.” recognition started to grow and sales doubled. They finally started Thom is very positive about the direction the to make inroads in to the Japanese company is moving in here in Japan. They market and Gordon Thom can really started to get the ball rolling with the take a lot of the credit for that. ergorapido stick vacuum, which sold well and He looks back at his first twelve he is hopeful that the ergothree vacuum will be months at Electrolux with a even more successful. The main aim though, is lot of pride, viewing the sales to make Electrolux a well known brand. results the company achieved during that period as one of “A year ago less then one percent of the the two biggest achievements Japanese population had heard of us. It is now in his business career, the up near to 10% but we really need it at around other being the launch of the 95%. That is not going to happen overnight and ergothree vacuum. Designed it is not going to happen cheaply. It will require with the Japanese consumer patient effort and investment, but eventually I in mind, it went on sale in would like Electrolux to be as natural a choice February and has so far for the Japanese consumer as Panasonic, proved very popular. Hitachi or Toshiba.”
SEPTEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com
GIRLS KEIRIN | FEATURE | 15
GIRL’S KEIRIN Shaking up the Velodrome
by Matthew Holmes
o non-cycling fans, the world of Keirin could be quite a mystery, especially as their first exposure is often the baffling sight of Olympic riders filing after a mystery man on a motorised bike, lapping the velodrome and silently increasing speed seeminglyT oblivious to the fact they are not winning.
After that, when the pace rider slips off the track, some of the greatest skills in professional cycling are on display; riders conserve energy by seeking out the slipstream of the rider in front - leaving at times millimetres between their wheels at well over 50 km/h, going round a slope angled at 43 degrees - before impeccably timing their charge for the line, smashing their legs onto the pedals and arching their back for a final few millimetres of advantage at the finish.
Here in Japan, the velodrome seems to be home to a phenomenon that goes beyond sport. And it’s going through some changes.
Just what is Keirin racing? Keirin, the word literally means ‘racing wheels’, was started in Japan in 1948 by the NJS, the Nihon Jitensha Shinkokai (which roughly translates as the Japan Bicycle Promotion Association), in part to help repair broken communities and move the industry forward after the second world war. Ticket sales and gambling takings have made it into big business, with around 800 billion yen taken each year, and though far from its heyday in the 1980s, this unique part of Japanese culture is something of an institution which goes deeper than it’s relatively young age would suggest.
Traditionally, all the bicycles are the same, frames are made of steel and each part is stamped with approval for meeting NJS regulations. This is a level playing field; riders must train relentlessly to improve their rankings and there is great mutual respect. Backstage at the races on a scorching August evening, with my phone confiscated as per the rules for all, I saw riders meticulously cleaning, checking and polishing every millimetre “Riders conserve energy by seeking of their own frames, chains and stays, taking the bikes apart and out the slipstream of the rider in putting them back together, readying them for battle. I saw intense warm ups on the treadmills; I smelled rubber on the floor and front - leaving at times millimetres liniment on the muscles; I heard shouts of passion through the concentrated silence and I saw a final superstitious handful of salt between their wheels” thrown over one rider’s frame. This is the domain of the dedicated.
www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2012 16 | FEATURE | GIRLS KEIRIN
Not all rosy. Gambling is a peculiar thing in Japan to many foreigners. We see pachinko parlours every day but we are told gambling is “illegal” - Main stand Centre stand there are ways to skirt the law, clearly, and th 4 corner for cultural or historical reasons an exception
Finish line 3rd corner seems to have been made. But three legitimate kōei kyōgi (public sports) exist at which 1st corner Back stretch line gambling is definitely allowed: horse racing, Catch Girls Keirin in September Rear stand Centre stand 2nd corner powerboat racing, speedway and Keirin.
September 5th - 9th Matsudo Velodrome, Chiba “Our enterprise has a long, long history,” explains Tatsuakira Yamamoto of the Japan September 15th - 17th Keirin Association, “but recently our revenue Hiroshima Velodrome, Hiroshima has been going down.” The fan base is Keirin - The rules explained growing older: a typical trip to the velodrome, September 21th - 23th Each race consists of seven riders who race over 1600 metres particularly on a weekday, involves, “perhaps Hiratsuka Velodrome, Kanagawa around a track, five laps if the track is 333.3 m or four laps if it is 500 m in circumference. Until the final lap and a half, riders more than 80% ojiisan (the older generation September 28th - 30th follow a pace out rider who gradually increases speed before of guys)” Keiokaku Velodrome, Chofu, Tokyo ‘releasing’ the riders at 50 km/h. “People will have to see Keirin as more of a ‘sport’ rather than a game to be gambled upon”
“Men’s Keirin is rather focused on gambling and we have to change the the somewhat dirty image of that,” Yamamoto says, “So we need new fans, we have to find a new thing to appeal to the public, and that’s why we started Girls Keirin. Since July 1st, our first race, many younger guys have been coming down, enjoying a beer after work and watching the races - mostly under floodlights.”
Seeing the recent trend for and popularity of women’s sport in Japan - our conversation briefly strayed towards the affectionately named Nadeshiko, Japan’s women’s football team - I put it to Yamamoto that it seems that to move towards greater appeal, even by bringing women into the equation, people will have to see it as more of a ‘sport’ than a game to be gambled upon. “Yeah, I think that’s right. So we changed the regulations and the rules a bit. Men’s Keirin especially is made for guessing, for prediction. The rules are made so that it is really difficult to know who will come first.” Riders form allegiances and “rough play” forms a big part of the final lap. “We have adopted the international standards and rules for the women, which don’t allow so much of that. We hope that, and the newer equipment, can ultimately help us send someone to (the) Rio (Olympics) in 2016.” They are not ready yet but the professional riders, a diverse band of women ranging in age from 19 to 50 (the oldest rider, Miyoko Takamatsu used to be a teacher) are getting better.
SEPTEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com GIRLS KEIRIN | FEATURE | 17
1 What of the men? Toda says they get on quite well and that behind the scenes there are occasional glances towards her bike. The girls ride aerodynamic, carbon framed bicycles with tri-spoke ‘aero’ wheels at the front and they look much like world-class Olympic machines - with a splash more colour. Toda is proud of hers, “It’s so fast, so exciting to ride, even the guys sometimes say it ‘looks cool’.”
That might be an understatement. The bicycles would be equally at home under some of the “pisto people”, as Yamamoto calls 2 them, who ride through Harajuku with fixed 3 gear bikes tuned for the track but ridden for high fashion, often without brakes. “Of course we, our bikes, have a connection with the messenger community, too (and NJS stamped bikes are worth three or four times their original value when sold in the US or Europe), but those guys, sometimes,” he laughs, “those
4 guys are ‘too naughty’.”
Are the male riders jealous? Yamamoto explains that the top riders will always be superstars, idols of sorts. And the men definitely rule, but the success of Girl’s Keirin has been a surprise to some of them, “There are 33 professional women and around 3,000 men. Those top guys are not concerned but 1 Miyoko Toda warms up 2 Toda (in blue) on the some of the lower ranked guys, I think they Keiokaku Velodrome start line 3 Round the back straight 4 Pre-race preparations and adjustments think [the women] are their menace.”
“We have riders who are gaining a lot of fans - former triathlete, Kanako Kase, who tops THE WOMEN CHANGING KEIRIN the prize money rankings so far with 1.8 m yen, has a kind of ‘bad girl’ image.” Yamamoto Behind the scenes on race day with young rider Miyoko Toda wants to create a kind of story, going through to the Grand Prix at the end of the year ow do you go about starting a simply a ‘gimmick’ for Keirin, which she (tentatively scheduled for December 28). sport from a fresh? First, you sees as “such a particularly Japanese “Actually, Kase and Yukari Nakamura, who is Hneed athletes. Four years ago, thing, like a part of our culture.” She has perhaps not as physical but tactically so good, the organisation looked at professional colourful, alternately painted nails and will not race together until then, I hope. I cyclists in Japan and realised there laughs when our photographer suggests want people to keep guessing who will win.” were too few of them. “We had to pick she might not want to be photographed up athletes from other fields, such as post race, “what’s wrong with my hair?!” It seems almost impossible for the people ice skating or ice hockey,” Yamamoto I meet to explain or sum up the spirit explains, “Even track and field. And we On being one of the ‘faces’ of the sport of Keirin and what drew them to it. It is approached the national associations of - we are talking just half an hour after getting attention, though. National cycling many sports, asking them to invite their she qualified for a final at the Keiokaku associations have shown an interest in taking athletes to apply.” Velodrome, near Chofu in western Tokyo both the ‘Girl’s’ and mens events to places - “If kids, and women, if they see me and such as Australia, Yamamoto says. He is keen Why would they switch to Keirin? Former I give off a sporty image, I want that to to stress at the end the interview his message professional badminton player, Miyoko attract them. The entertainment is good to the public: “At the moment, we don’t have Toda, 23, tells me that when she heard (at the velodrome) and we look kind of a lot of English information for spectators at she was immediately enthusiastic. “I was fashionable. But I also want to appear sort the velodrome but, the race itself, if you see playing in the top league but I kind of of ‘kawaii’ (cute) - maybe people will enjoy the race, you will know.” And Toda agrees, felt that I had reached my ceiling. I had that aspect!” “You have seen it. You know. People should wanted to be a top pro-athlete since I was see it once, and if they do they will definitely a kid and I knew this might be my last Toda is serious, too. “Every race we get feel good.” chance to really meet that challenge.” better. I kind of quit badminton with unfinished business in the middle of my For more information and detailed venue access Toda is smart, and talks honestly and career, so this time I really want to push guide, see bg.keirin.jp/en/abcs/grades/index.html passionately about her place in the ‘new’ myself to the point I can work no more. So which also has a betting how-to section (English) sport. She doesn’t think the girls are that I can be proud.” or visit www.girlskeirin.com (Japanese)
www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2012
Fashion Interview: Celebrities know that when they step out in something made by Neil Barrett, the feedback is likely to be positive; the ‘effortlessly cool’ look has proved to be a real hit with the critics. He has also won praise for the way Neil Barrett he runs the business. Akiko Kaneko, CEO of Known for his minimalist designs with a cool twist, Neil Barrett is one A.KA Tokyo, describes him as “an intelligent, of the most exciting designers to come out of the UK for years. Spotted open-minded individual who, unlike many designers, is prepared to listen to the opinions by Maurizio Gucci while studying at the Royal College of Art in London, of others.” Barrett earned quite a reputation in the fashion industry after moving to Italy in the early nineties and has seen it grow ever since. Ultimately though, all the major decisions are made by Barrett and more often than not he gets it right. His choice of Dame Zaha Hadid by Matthew Hernon to design the flagship store in Tokyo was ollowing five successful years with A fourth generation tailor, his ability to certainly one of his most inspired. Winner of Gucci he launched Prada’s first combine traditional aspects of British the 2004 Pritker prize and one of the world’s designer menswear collection tailoring with Italian artistic flair that had most decorated architects, she has created in 1995 before branching out on made him stand out as a designer. one of the most beautifully arranged shops in Fhis own in 1999. He has gone on to make Tokyo. Located in the trendy Minami-Aoyama clothes for some of the world’s biggest stars, He describes his style as “chic, utilitarian district, it perfectly reflects Barrett’s minimal, including Brad Pitt, Orlando Bloom, Chris and with great attention to detailing, fabric understated approach to fashion. Martin and Justin Timberlake. His crowning development and fit, ideal for fashion- achievement, he says, came in 2006 conscience clients who want to look when the Italian team won the and feel great without a logo.” “Clothes become part of a World Cup in shirts he designed. It would seem that a high number of A-list celebrities fit photographic story of the “I was so proud and that category. elated that night,” he tells actor’s taste, for which he Weekender. “It was so The likes of Jake Gyllenhaal, impressive actually being Ewan McGregor and Colin or she will be judged for in the Berlin stadium for Firth are often seen at the World Cup Final. I was showbiz parties in Neil Barrett the rest of their lives” surrounded by a majority of attire, while Brad Pitt was Germans of course (being the the first celeb to wear one of his Clearly delighted by what Hadid has host country) and I was sitting with the ‘hand aged’ leather jackets, now seen produced, he has called upon her again to President of Puma International, Jochen Zeitz as the signature piece. Barrett launched his design his mono-brand stores in Shanghai (Barrett collaborated with Puma to produce womenswear collection in 2006 and soon and Beijing, due to open at the end of the the kit). had stars such as Madonna and Angelina year. The company is also working on a Jolie queuing up to be seen in. number of other projects, including the There were tens of thousands of Italian womenswear summer collection and the supporters wearing t-shirts with my name Whilst his designs for all individuals are building of a new Milan headquarters, written on the outside - not bad for a Brit who “based on the same criteria,” he does which he describes as “a 6000m2 ex national has chosen to base his company out of Italy,” acknowledge that there is added pressure electricity school from the 1930s, quite a Barrett jokes, “It is a place I have always when making clothes for someone in the special place for the world of Neil Barrett to believed in as a source of extreme talent in public eye. “The difference with an actor for be housed.” It will undoubtedly look artisans and food and this put football back example is that their clothes become part amazing, as anything associated with Neil high on the list.” of a photographic story of the actor’s taste, Barrett naturally does. for which he or she will be judged for the Living in Milan, he clearly has a lot of rest of their lives. We mortals are not judged Address: 3-17-6 Minami Aoyama, affection for his adopted country but at the in retrospect by these harsh or positive Tel: 03-5474-0051 same time has never forgotten his roots. opinions.” Web: www.neilbarrett.com/en/
www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2012
INTRODUCTION | EAT TOKYO | 21 EAT TOKYO! e know Tokyo is a culinary treasure trove waiting to be explored in many ways every day. The scale of Wthe city makes it impossible to ignore the occasional recommendation, so here we are with a few picks and a few stories that will, we think, guide you a little way on your journey of discovery.
You might be dedicated to your food to the point that you seek out the best spot down the darkest, hardest to find side street or you may prefer all the hard work to be done for you in more elegant surroundings. If you take your food seriously, though, you are in the right place.
We take a stroll around Ginza, the former site of Tokyo’s silver mint, known throughout the world for its wide high streets abundant with the flagship stores of luxury brands, its flamboyant architecture and its top class fashion boutiques. And of course, the finest of fine dining. Those shoppers need somewhere to eat.
We found Peking Duck specialists who have been in existence since 1864 and are run directly from the Chinese capital and were not disappointed by their authenticity or their class. The open duck ovens and the traditional decor really were something special. Zenshutoku fit right in with Ginza’s refined atmosphere but, to the relief of friends who wanted to bring their kids, was a fantastic choice on a relaxing Sunday afternoon with the family.
Eels were on the menu next. Nagoya style unagi, grilled to caramel coloured perfection over a specially designed oak wood charcoal burner at Hitsumabushi was just the course we were looking for on a hot, late summer’s day but would have been great in any weather. If you haven’t tried eel, this is the place to start. If you have tried it, this place may just give wherever you have been a run for its money.
There were more formal options in the area too. Whether you are looking for a perfect venue for a business lunch or somewhere to dine the evening away in style, Chinese food might not be high up your list. It should be. The banquet style course we enjoyed at Higankaku was dish after dish of perfection on a plate. Suit jackets were necessary but dressing up really felt worthwhile for this standard of cuisine.
If you fancy something a bit different, take a stroll with our writer, who wandered around a very different part of Tokyo - to the west of Shinjuku - on the search for the perfect gyoza. To find out whether he found them and just how his mission changed him, turn to page 22.
How could we forget dessert? We turn to cakes to close our section and these cafes, sweets, puddings and specialist bakeries are sure to leave you on a satisfyingly sugary high.
www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2012 Gyoza Hunter Man Seeks Dumplings
by Philip Kendall
ain trickled over the clear plastic surface of my battered, Each time, I had been denied. And with each denial those little fried misshapen convenience store umbrella, forming miniature / steamed / boiled dumplings had shot up a rank in my estimations. pools for a split second before running off in the direction of They were fast becoming the stuff of legend. the one broken metal arm and pattering down onto my left shoulder. Today, nothing was going to deter me. I would wait as long as it took. R During my many attempts to get a plate of Cho Hakkai’s gyoza, I Somewhere near me in the maze of narrow, neon and paper lamp lit learned the hard way a number of useful facts: backstreets, a Japanese businessman warbled a classic oldie in a karaoke bar. Trains rumbled into the station a row of buildings behind me and I 1. It is closed on Mondays. This was the rookie mistake that led to the heard the muffled announcements of arrivals. My stomach murmured and pathetic sight of a salivating man excitedly arriving at his desired I peered, for the nth time, inside Cho Hakkai (豚八戒) to see if anyone was dining destination only to be met by nothing but a dark, shuttered showing signs of leaving or a seat would open up. I was here, again, for shopfront. 2. The place fills up. Fast. My second attempt started better one thing: the now almost-mythical, mouth-watering golden dumplings of than my first but, arriving a mere three minutes after the place had pure sunshine that had, just a week earlier, simply been a rumour. opened and finding every seat in the house already occupied, I fell at the final hurdle. 3. They take reservations, but only for their opening I had followed internet chatter to Asagaya - eight minutes from Shinjuku time of 6 p.m. so you either book in advance, get lucky, or wait for on the JR Chuo line - no fewer than three times in pursuit of these gyoza. your seat.
SEPTEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com GYOZA | EAT TOKYO | 23
described as a little on the cramped side but its welcoming, relaxed atmosphere effortlessly converts that to ‘cosy’ in no time at all. The menus are printed on thick, soft washi-style paper that makes you feel like you’re reading ancient parchment and are about to be cooked for by an enlightened Buddhist monk. This feeling was soon offset by, along with the proprietor’s stylish flat cap and jazz-club style beard, the sight of a single can of Campbell’s tomato soup sitting boldly on a shelf at the back of the counter. Whether this is a cheeky nod to Warhol or a secret gyoza ingredient I have no idea, but the quirk and charm of Cho Hakkai’s Ichi-En : Nearest station, Kichijoji. Musashino-shi, atmosphere became clear. Kichijoji Honmachi 2-17-2 A golden circle of hane-tsuki gyoza (a pan of After my failed visits, I found myself gyoza with a wafer-thin layer of crisped dough impatiently punching ‘gyoza’ into Google maps across the top, connecting them all together seeking an alternative to satisfy my craving until you dive in with your chopsticks) soon and learned yet another important lesson: The arrived in front of me and the restaurant biggest crime a foodie can make is to be a snob. owner pointed me in the direction of the usual soy sauce and chilli-oil pots. After deciding to I’d always done my best to track down places go au naturel, I polished the entire plate off in that depend almost entirely on their gyoza to Minmin: Nearest station, Kichijoji. Musashino-shi, less than five minutes. make a living; to my mind, if the gyoza only Kichijoji Honmachi 1-1-9 appeared on the side menu, they weren’t up to Did the gyoza live up to my lofty expectations? By the end of my meal I was a changed man. I scratch. This turned out to be another rookie Absolutely. Are they easy to describe with mere got back on my phone and started searching. mistake, as I was to discovered when my words? Not at all. Kichijōji, I soon discovered, has plenty of gyoza smartphone led me to Kichijōji’s Harmonica to go around. Yokochō, a narrow labyrinth of food, coffee and Usually, when I eat gyoza I find myself beer stands brimming with rough edges and weighing up the amount of garlic or Chinese One of the best places I found was Ichi En ( diamond finds. chives in the mix, or examining the proportions ), a ramen shop on Nakamichi-dori. It 一圓 of meat and cabbage a chef uses. With these offers up both jumbo gyoza, and smaller but I was looking for for Min Min, a place well gyoza, however, it was a different story. With more expensive bite-sized gyoza going by known locally for its gyoza but, it turns out, each careful bite I mulled the same question the somewhat grandiose moniker, ‘Platinum predominantly a ramen restaurant. Search over and over in my mind: ‘what is that spice in Gyoza.’ I don’t know whether they’re using pork as I might, I somehow kept winding up on the there?’ I just couldn’t put my finger on it. With from specially bred, hourly-massaged or pep- same corner outside a yakitori stand whose every discreet sniff or peer over the counter talked pigs but Ichi En’s dumplings are worth owner shot me curious glance after concerned to see the chef effortlessly rolling a fresh every single yen, and the 20-minute wait on a stare. I turned back, cursing my terrible sense batch, I got no closer to the answer. In the end, bench outside. of direction and starting to feel the kind of I resolved to take my newly learned gyoza- irritation that only an empty stomach can bring hunting lessons to heart. I stopped trying to be On the day of my third visit to Cho Hakkai, when, adjusting my shoulder bag, my faithful a critic and started tucking in. Japan’s unpredictable rainy season was well old umbrella suddenly burst open. The spindly upon us and the rain poured from the sky. metal arms shot out in all directions like spines Before I left the restaurant, I managed to get I stood, hungry yet determined, under my on some kind of crazed shuriken-equipped through two servings of hanetsuki gyoza, a decrepit umbrella, waiting. This was it. I was puffer-fish, the tip of one narrowly missed a plate of steamed gyoza, a portion of spicy going over the top. An hour later, my seat young woman’s face and droplets of lukewarm Sichuan gyoza and a Chinese chicken breast opened up. I was in. rainwater noisily peppered everything within with a rich, sticky sauce. And beer. I felt that I a three foot radius. I apologised profusely, deserved a beer. With just seven stools at the edge of a simple, struggling to divide my attention between wooden-topped counter, Cho Hakkai could be controlling my umbrella and forming coherent sentences in Japanese. She forced a tiny smile of exoneration and turned to walk away. But then I noticed the bag she was carrying.
In my politest Japanese, I ventured, “I don’t suppose…” I pointed at her bag, “those are from Min-Min?” Her face lit up. Gyoza had brought us together.
Min-Min only seats around 12 people and has a simple, no-frills layout: a couple of tables, a long, plain counter with stools and a narrow kitchen separated from the dining area by a row of long glass panels. The place was close to full and, although I saw several people happily tucking into bowls of steaming hot ramen, nearly everyone had a small plate of gyoza. The fried gyoza I tried weren’t too heavy on the garlic and were big enough to require a couple of substantial bites. The fillings are soft and juicy while the skins, which pick up the soy sauce / vinegar / chilli oil combo nicely, are Cho Hakkai: Nearest station, Asagaya. Suginami-ku, Harmonica: From the North Exit of Kichijoji station, head Asagaya Minami 3-37-5 left across the street and look for the yellow sign. thick and satisfyingly chewy.
www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2012 Higankaku Ginza
Not your average Chinese restaurant
Written by James K. Toda
magine, as most people will when they think of Chinese, that circular rotating tray in the middle of the table, Ithe ‘Lazy Susan’, with a huge selection of oily food.” says Hiro Fujimoto, the owner of Higankaku as we chat before I head over to Ginza. “Now forget it. Our restaurant is totally different.”
That huge rotating disc of dishes was so beloved of diners in the 70s and 80s when Chinese food started to take off in the west and, sometimes, it works. Chinese food is for sharing, Chinese food is for mixing and dividing and tasting and getting the tablecloth dirty with. Or so I thought.
Here at Higankaku, you will not see the Lazy Susan. The tables are square and the waiters and waitresses will serve your dishes one by one, focusing on the strengths of each and its place in your course. It feels almost French in style but seems to work, and work well. The interior is balanced somewhere between classical French and high class Chinese restaurant to and the formal service seems to suit. Jackets all round is the dress-code it feels worth it.
SEPTEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com “With dishes such as the Matsuzaka beef I tried served with flair and finesse, the place feels like it opened up a whole new world of cuisine to me”
1 3
enough. “Usual Peking Duck is too big a portion for just an appetizer, but we don’t want people to miss out on such an important part of our cuisine, so we serve the very best part for you, once,” adds Fujimoto.
Fujimoto also runs a company that produces foodstuffs, ingredients and 2 seasonings and supplies top class restaurants and luxury hotels, and she seems passionate about showcasing all of the best parts here in Higankaku while passing on value to its diners.
With dishes such as the Matsuzaka beef I tried served with flair and finesse, the Top Right Picture: Assorted appetizers 1 Crab paste and place feels like it opened up a whole new tofu stew 2 Fresh shrimp with fruit sauce 3 Matsuzaka beef world of cuisine to me. Daisen Chicken and a shiitake soup rounded off the meal by The order of proceedings does not juice is already on the back of your tongue bringing some satisfyingly homely Chinese mean lack of choice. A carefully treated should you bite it. Well, I did as I was told flavours to the table before Seafood noodles preserved egg and strictly selected dried and I would do it again – if only to savour filled in any gaps. mullet roe were highlights of an impressive each flavour and enjoy once more the dish with no fewer than nine appetizers layers that make them up. That most unfamiliar of feelings after a which started us off and let me know what Chinese feast – a healthy satisfaction which I was in for. This was not Chinese food Then, Peking duck. Usually, crispy duck meant a guilt-free dessert could follow – from the high street. skin, spring onion and pancake are served was as welcome as it was unexpected. The seperately but here, Higankaku serves whole meal felt fresh, and lacked any of the Nine delicately different colours, shapes, one piece of duck, already wrapped with a heavy oiliness one might have expected. textures and tastes on one dish felt like an delicately balanced level of piquant sauce We ate to be satisfied, not stuffed, which is update which I didn’t know was necessary that made me lick my lips somehow just exactly what Higankaku was aiming for. to the cuisine, but they worked. It was quite a variety. Higankaku
Address: 9F Jewel Box Ginza 8-9-15 Ginza Next up was Xiaolong bao, a type of Tel: 03-3572-7111 \ Fax: 03-3572-7112 steamed dumpling with ultra thin skin Web: www.higankaku.com which you need to eat so carefully that the restaurant even provides a small Open: Lunch - 11:30- 15:00 (Last order at 14:00) explanatory slip of paper. Again, order Dinner - 17:00-22:00 (Last order at 21:00) is key: put it in a white ceramic spoon, Higankaku operates a dress code: Please wear a jacket. No children under carefully break the delicate thin skin, taste Hiro Fujimoto 15, except in private dining rooms on weekends. Reservation required. the soup inside, and only then, when the
www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2012 ummer in Japan is hot, humid and borderline unbearable for foreigners and Japanese alike. A Sgood way to alleviate summer fatigue and build your stamina, according to many locals, is with a traditional dish Hitsumabushi of Japanese fresh water eel, known as unagi.
Traditionally enjoyed on doyo no ushi no hi, said to be the hottest day of the year in the old Japanese calendar, (in Bincho 2012 it was on July 27) unagi is rich in minerals, vitamins and protein, making it sought after as much for its health benefits as its delicate texture and flavour. For perhaps thousands of years the tradition, linked to the teachings of Nagoya Style Oak Flamed Eels experts in Chinese medicine, has been followed but today, we are interested in flavour.
“The important things are how you choose the unagi, the way you grill it, and your artisan spirit,” says Hiroshi Suzuki HITSUMABUSHI | EAT TOKYO | 27 OTHER STORES
Nagoya: Head Store | Tel: 0587-96-0141 “The important LACHIC Store | Tel: 052-259-6703 Esca Store | Tel: 052-451-5557 things are how you
Tokyo Stores: Ginza Store| Tel: 03-5159-0231 choose the unagi, Ikebukuro PARCO Store | Tel: 03-5956-5756 Sky Tree Solamaci Store | Tel: 03-5619-5757 the way you grill it,
Fukuoka Store: and your artisan Nakasu Kawabata |Tel: 092-409-6522 spirit”
to a particular species,” Suzuki says, “At Hitsumabushi Bincho we procure unagi from all over Japan, enabling us to serve the best seasonal possible dish we can.”
“We adjust the flames and cooking temperature for each individual unagi,” Suzuki explains, “and as the name of our establishment implies, at Hitsumabushi Bincho we only use the finest qualitybincho charcoal (made from oak), which allows us to grill the unagi to tender, succulent perfection and gives it extra flavour.”
Eel is often steamed but here, true to the Nagoya style, it is the smoke and flames that do the work, “Combined with our secret home-made sauce,” Suzuki proudly tells us, “our kabayaki unagi dish is an experience like no other, browned to just the right shade.”
Suzuki’s blend of artisan spirit and efficient modern business practices led to the creation of his unique “bincho” what I had learned in a more rational system. Weekender got a taste of Suzuki’s and efficient way, to keep up with current Hitsumabushi, a Nagoya favourite which trends and globalization.” is prepared by heaping a generous portion of thinly sliced kabayaki unagi on top of Suzuki, now 53, streamlined his teaching a small tub full of rice, called o-hitsu. We process by providing his disciples with were told to mix the unagi into the rice manuals explaining when a particular (an action called mabushi in Japanese), 32, president of Hitsumabushi Binchotan. species of unagi was in season, when it allowing for a multitude of different tastes “In order to offer the best possible grilled tastes best and how it needs to be grilled. and textures to develop. The chef was right unagi, you need a lot of experience He is passionate about eel, which about the colour, too, which is an inviting and I’ve been studying techniques he sees as far more than just an almost caramelized deep shade. The eel has and cooking it for many years.” average meal or something a gorgeous, rich aroma and the flesh melts to simply cool you down, in your mouth. This food is so satisfying and An advocate for experienced and hopes to further spread has been made with such passion that we unagi chefs, Suzuki shared his craft and philosophy would come back whatever the weather. his thoughts on traditional by opening a Bincho Brand Japanese apprenticeships. restaurant in New York City “In the past, you would have to add to the latest Sky Tree to absorb information just by addition in the near future. watching your master chef work,” Suzuki said, “I went through ten years of There are many varieties of eel worldwide Address: 2-2-14 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo harsh training, starting when I was 22 and seasonal availability varies depending Tel: 03 5159 0231 but I don’t think it was all necessary or on the species and its place of origin. Web: www.hitsumabushi.co.jp beneficial to my cooking. I wanted to share “That’s why we don’t limit ourselves Open: Daily, 11am-3pm, 5pm-11pm Zenshutoku With two branches here in Tokyo, run directly from Beijing, the Zenshutoku chain (pronounced Quanjude in Mandarin) serves over two million roast ducks, in 400 different styles, to over five million customers every year.
he place has impressive scale and a history to restaurant, we already knew we were in for something match – its flagship Beijing store can have up to memorable and immediately knew what to expect of the 400 staff working to serve 900 customers at any speciality – the open duck oven was located right before our one time and was established back in 1864, during eyes, just a window away from the lobby. theT Qing Dynasty. Sticking with traditional methods when roasting duck for their most well-known dishes, they use A dilemma many of us face when thinking about eating out open ovens and hardwood fuel such as Chinese date, peach is that we don’t want to compromise on the menu but do or pear tree wood to add a subtle, fruity flavor and a golden have the kids with us, as was the case when we visited. It crisp to the skin without too much smoke. was an early Sunday evening and suited our group of young family and friends perfectly. While Zenshutoku might We headed to Ginza to experience for ourselves some of normally be more suited to a business lunch or impressive the high quality food we hear has such a following and is dinner, Zenshutoku had a welcoming atmosphere and the always ranked so highly in the Japanese press. Entering the place seemed versatile.
SEPTEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com Zenshutoku | EAT TOKYO | 29 “At Zenshutoku you 2 can truly sit back, relax, and just enjoy treating yourself”
he private dining room selected for us was spacious and stylish, classic without 1 feeling stuffy and we felt 3 4 totallyT relaxed. Staff were attentive without being overbearing and treated the children – who seemed to particularly like our prawn starter – with care. It is a great feeling to know that things are taken care of but that we would still be having a top class dining experience.
Those prawns were served with a lightly spiced chinese sausage, steamed egg and slices of fresh vegetables, 3 introducing our palates to some of 1 Roasted and ready to carve 2 Plenty of side options Peking duck roll 4 Fresh crabs of the day the flavours we could look forward
seemed to melt into the mouth and it was a mouth watering combination that really warmed us up.
Perfectly succulent duck rolls (we opted for a domestic bird) and then a steamed bun with plenty of juicy meat were carefully made for us and handed out next, though not before our waitress checked whether the children wanted negi (they did, and loved it). Sweet and sour pork with diced pineapple was sharp and succulent, somehow a perfect match for the Chinese rice wine we took very little persuasion to try. Served over ice, it was easy to drink and perfect for the occasion but there is an impressive list of beers and western style wines, too. Lunch service would be a great Private dining room introduction, the restaurant offers a range of courses to suit all budgets but for the to. More seafood came next, fried Staff introduced the dishes to those of us true taste of Beijing, the evening menu is prawns seemed indulgent but even not so familiar with the style and when well worth looking into. though wrapped in mayonnaise and explaining how and why the natural batter and coated with crispy shreds of sweetness of plum sauce matches duck Finishing with dessert and tea, we kept potato, somehow didn’t seem greasy, so well they had an easy task. Before coming back to the point that everything something that was a common theme that, though, we were served crackling- felt so fresh and seemed to lack any throughout our dinner. Even the fried like shards of skin in a less familiar enhancers or additives. The textures and rice served towards the end of the meal way. Reminding us again how duck fat flavours were balanced and for such an was light, not too salty and felt very can be offset by sweetness, our waitress indulgent, banquet style dining experience fresh. Cubes of meat and vegetables sprinkled grains of sugar directly onto the we never felt the food was too heavy. At ran right through the grains of rice skin, an interesting new combination for Zenshutoku you can truly sit back, relax, and the flavours were satisfyingly well us; it wasn’t a gimmick, somehow the fat and just enjoy treating yourself. balanced. Ginza Branch Shinjuku Branch For the main event, a touch of theatre; Address: Chuo-ku, Ginza 5-8-17 Address: Shinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-32-10 the chef appeared in our room to carve Tel: 03 5568 8668 Tel: 03 3358 8885 our duck, of course the real speciality of Weekdays: 11:30 – 15:00 & 17:00 – 23:00 Weekdays: 11:30 – 15:00 & 17:00 – 23:00 Open Weekends: 11:30 – 22:00 Open Weekends: 11:30 – 22:00 Zenshutoku, and there was a surprise. www.zenshutoku.com
www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2012 30 | GOURMET SPECIAL | CAKES A Sweet Tooth in Tokyo by Vivian Morelli
“Life is uncertain. Eat dessert first.”- Ernestine Ulmer
Always one to follow quotes from famous authors literally, I tend to spend a lot of my time perusing Tokyo’s bakeries and sweet shops to find hidden treasure in the form of sugary treats. Japan may not traditionally be known for its fluffy, baked concoctions but has adopted and seemingly mastered the confectionary art. Whether you love crumbly scones and muffins or are a chocolate and custard aficionado, dessert should never be skipped - especially not in Tokyo. Here are some of my favourite sweet spots in Tokyo.
Daily Desserts: Deli Cupcake heaven: Tokyo Baking & Co. Sweets Factory Tucked down a side street This Jiyugaoka treasure chest in the midst of the maze boasts one of my favourite yet Shimokitazawa, Deli Baking sadly often not-as-good-as-they- & Co. offers a vast selection look indulgences, the cupcake. of cakes and baked items, Following exposure in some each seemingly more American TV drama (Sex and the mouthwatering than the last: City, perhaps?), the cupcake craze ricotta cheesecake, blueberry and apricot muffins, apple rhubarb has reached a peak in the Western world. Still a bit difficult to find in Tokyo, pie, fig cheesecake, caramel banana cake and Oreo muffins, are I can easily see why this tiny bite of heaven, when done well, is so popular: just a few favourites. The raspberry and white chocolate muffin is it’s simple, small, and the frosting creates the perfect balance between fragrant and moist, while the chocolate scone is absolute perfection, crumbly texture and sugary fix. Tokyo Sweets Factory presents a selection with a light and fluffy interior and crisp exterior. With a crisp of cupcakes from ‘London style’ Notting Hill Cake Shop. Try the pistachio white wooden decor, this is a perfect place to relax and enjoy a few cupcake for a slightly bitter and nutty taste or take a huge bite of the vanilla minutes of calm. (Cakes from ¥450, scones from ¥230) cupcake, complete with a dollop of perfectly rich, buttery frosting.
1F, 2-29-2 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku; tel. +81 (0) 3 5453 1313. Open daily 158-0083 Tokyo-to, Setagaya-ku, Okusawa 5-28-1 B1F
10 a.m. - 9 p.m. Station: Shimokitazawa. http://www.nottinghillcakes.com/ & Sophia Fukunishi Said Karlsson Photography:
SEPTEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com DESSERT | EAT TOKYO | 31
Fresh homemade: Rose Bakery Hailing from Paris, this stylish French bakery > SUGAR RUSH The best of the rest:
serves an impressive array of exquisite Kyle’s Good Finds (Nakano) : As American as apple pie, homemade cakes, in true Western style. I’m the chef whips up comfort goodies such as pumpkin pie, highly disinterested in fluffy, airy creations, brownies, carrot cake, banana bread and custom-made as I like my cakes to be rich, dense and more character birthday cakes. And, of course, apple pie. www.kylesgoodfinds.com savoury than sweet. Rose Bakery definitely
caters to my picky taste buds and the vast Sweets Paradise (various locations): How many sweets display of cakes is enough to make my head can you eat in 90 minutes? For a reckless sugar spree, run spin: think walnut and amaretto, coconut lime, banana pecan, matcha and raspberry. around to try the dozens of cakes, ice cream flavours, a Don’t leave without trying their famous cylinder-shaped carrot cake, or their chocolate fountain surrounded by colourful, psychedelic decor to match your sugar high. “Zucchini and Carrot” variation - and thank me later. (Cakes from ¥550) www.sweets-paradise.com
Atre Kichijoji 1F 1-1-24 Kichijoji Minami machi, Musashino-ku. Bella’s Cupcakes (Daikanyama): Check daily Twitter www.rosebakery.jp (other locations in Tokyo) updates to find the location of the Bella’s Cupcakes truck, as it could be in your neighbourhood. Or find their
scrumptious, handcrafted cupcakes and cookies every weekend at the Hillside Pantry in Daikanyama. Live baking: Toshi Yoroizuka www.bellas-tokyo.com Head to swanky Midtown to get your sweet tooth fix in a rather unusual way. With bar Mixture (Shimokitazawa): Start the day with their famous espresso bread made with beans from neighbour, Bear seats facing an open kitchen, you can watch Pond Espresso, or snack on gooey chocolate croissants and chefs conjuring up elaborate creations, all cinnamon French toast with a crumbly, jam-filled rock cake from scratch and before your eyes. Cake for the road. www.cafe-mixture.com guru and famed pastry chef Toshi Yoroizuka spent several years training in Europe before returning home to open up shop in Roppongi. The desserts are seasonal and, even though the menu is limited to a handful of items, the quality and attention to detail in the preparation could send you to a chocolate ganache or fruit coulis heaven. (Desserts from ¥1200)
Tokyo Midtown East 1F B-0104. 9-7-2 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo http://grand-patissier.info/ToshiYoroizuka/ Photography: Said Karlsson & Sophia Fukunishi Said Karlsson Photography:
www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2012
MOVIES Coming to a cinema near you in AUGUST
SEP 7 The Dictator he Dictator is the latest offering from comedian Sacha Baron-Cohen, creator Tof the Borat and Bruno characters. Cohen’s latest incarnation is that of Admiral General Shabazz Aladeen, tyrannical ruler of the fictional North African Republic of Waddiya. The Dictator uses a more traditional comedy format to Baron-Cohen’s previous mockumentary style, but his character is no less outlandish than previous incarnations, and perhaps even more controversial. The Saddam Hussein/Colnel Gaddafi-like Aladeen is a sexist, racist, genocidal monster with dreams of creating his own nuclear weapons, who travels to New York to better express himself to the United Nations. While in America, he falls prey to an assassination attempt from his uncle Tamir, played by Ben Kingsley, which sees him being replaced by a double and the real Aladeen meeting up with Anna Faris’ feminist, organic food shop owner. Formulaic it may be, but the laughs are pretty much guaranteed - if you can brush off some of the offensiveness. Some of the subtleties in the satire of previous characters are gone and the jokes are bold and, at times, immature, but with Baron-Cohen you know what you are getting and here he delivers.
SEP 21 The Bourne Legacy SEP 28 ts been five years since The Bourne Ultimatum seemingly ended the Bourne Ifranchise with a confident finale to the popular trilogy. Now the series has returned, without Matt Damon’s Jason Bourne character but with Jeremy Renner, seen in last months The Avengers, stepping in as new player, Aaron Cross. Inhabiting the same universe as the previous films, some original Rock of Ages characters return and Edward Norton and The HUNGER GAMES Rachel Weisz join the action, directed by musical based on a Broadway hit nternationally, The Hunger Games, Tony Gilroy, co-writer of the earlier films. of the same name, the film’s all star starring relative newcomer, Jennifer Aaron Cross is a member of a Black Ops team cast includes Catherine Zeta-Jones, Lawrence, seen above with Stanley Tucci, A who is targeted for elimination after Jason I Alec Baldwin, Paul Giamatti and Russell has been the surprise hit of a blockbusting Bourne exposes the Treadstone Project. After Brand, but the main talking point is a film year, breaking opening day and weekend realizing he is under threat, Cross sets out stealing performance from Tom Cruise, as records on its release. Based on the popular to uncover the truth about himself and the arrogant rock star, Stacee Jaxx. Set during novel by Suzanne Collins, the fantasy-thriller people he works for. the 80s hair-metal peak, the film follows the will hope to capture the Twilight market and story of Sherrie, played by country singer SEP 28 share in that films success. Heroine, Katniss Julianne Hough, a small town girl who moves Everdeen (Lawrence) portrays one of twelve to L.A. in order to realize her dreams. She youngsters selected to take part in a televised befriends Drew (Diego Bonita), a bartender at competition in which the competitors must The Bourbon Room club, which is currently fight to the death. Set in a dystopian future trying to stage a performance by notoriously in which the US is a totalitarian state, the difficult Jaxx. Fans of the music of the era, film draws comparisons to Japan’s own and younger devotees to Glee’s karaoke controversial classic, Battle Royale. The style covers should find something to enjoy Hunger Games isn’t quite so violent and is amongst the camp, slightly over-the-top fun. sure to be a hit with the teenage crowd.
SEPTEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com SHOWING THIS MONTH | SCREEN | 35 SEP 1
> SCREENINGS Selected Cinemas
The Dictator: TOHO Cinemas (Roppongi, Nishi Arai, Kawasaki, Yokohama) The Bourne Legacy: TOHO Cinemas (Roppongi, Odaiba, Yurakucho/Hibiya, Nishi Arai, Shibuya, Kinshicho) Rock of Ages: TOHO Cinemas (Roppongi, Nishi Arai, Odaiba, Kinshicho) The Hunger Games: TOHO Cinemas (Minami Osawa, Roppongi, Fuchu, Kinshicho, Yurakucho/Hibiya, Shibuya, Odaiba) Marley: Human Trust Cinema (Shibuya) MARLEY Iron Sky: TOHO Cinemas (Minami Osawa, Roppongi, Fuchu, cottish director Kevin Macdonald returns to the documentary Kinshicho, Nishi Arai, Odaiba) format in which he made his name with 2003’s Touching the SVoid, the tale of two climbers who faced peril in Peruvian Andes. This, a biographical account of the life of music legend and Jamaican cultural hero, Bob Marley, has the ambitious objective of being the > DVD/BLU-RAY This Month’s Releases definitive look at the life of one of music’s greatest stars. Looking behind the scenes at both the man and the legend that surrounds him, SEP 7 The Ides of March MacDonald’s film, which begins in West Africa and tells us the story of George Clooney stars in and directs this portrayal how his parents ended up having a child in Nine Mile, Jamaica, has been of the grittier side of the US presidential campaign very well-received by most critics. Made with the support of the Marley trail. A timely release, with star turns from Paul Giamatti and Philip Seymour Hoffman. family, the film features revelatory interviews with the people closest to the singer, including his wife, children and band members. MacDonald SEP 5 The Edge of Love uses interviews smartly and unseen performance footage helps to create Romantic drama with Keira Knightley and Sienna a film that reaches beyond die-hard fans to create an absorbing account Miller, who star as two feisty women connected of a man who in his short life - Marley died 30 years ago, at just 36 years by a brilliant poet who loves them both. Based on old - became an icon. an account of Dylan Thomas’ life.
SEP 5 Battleship Unknown enemies – from another planet? - attack a SEP 28 fleet of ships who are most certainly the underdogs. If big explosions, naval game inspired splashes or Liam Neeson are you thing, give this a go.
SEP 5 The Big Year Owen Wilson and Jack Black are bird watchers. Slightly formulaic if off-the-wall comedy about their struggle against a cocky, cutthroat world record holder in a year long quest to be the best.
SEP 5 Brake High tension as a member of the US Secret Service is trapped inside the boot of a car as terrorists plotting against the President torture him in an attempt to extract information.
SEP 5 Animal Kingdom IRON SKY A young man born into an explosive criminal his comic sci-fi action movie (a pretty tough genre to get just right) family struggles to survive and he meets a detective takes us forward to 2018 and the invasion of Earth by Nazis who who tries to save him. This 2010 Sundance winner Tattack from a secret base on the moon, where they have been stars Guy Pierce and James Frecheville. hiding since 1945. Some half decent black comedy is about the only way SEP 19 Drive the Australian/German/Finnish team behind the film could get away Ryan Gosling and Carey Mulligan both won with the B-movie style plot and there are some laughs. Sarah Palin awards for their performances in this, the story of is President of the United States of America and, in her (character’s) a mysterious Hollywood stuntman, mechanic and words, “every President needs a war.” So, take it to the guys who have getaway driver and his troubled neighbour. been watching and plotting from a swastika shaped HQ near the Sea SEP 26 The Vow of Tranquility they do, but the US team has a battle it may not have Romance. When a woman wakes up from a coma expected on its hands. It is fair to say that most of the people who have with severe memory loss, her husband faces a seen this film have done so on DVD - it only had a week in Europe’s struggle to win her heart all over again, but faces cinemas before that was released - but it is worth a taken with a pinch of a fight from her previously estranged family. salt look. Heavy on blue screen action scenes and with some diologue that you might wish were just a tiny bit sharper, take a few mates and perhaps grab a beer or two for this one. This month’s movie previews were written by Christopher O’Keeffe. For more movie news and reviews visit www.tokyoweekender.com
www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2012 36 | FACES & PLACES | PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES
Top, from left: Munetaka Aoki, Yosuke Eguchi, Taketo Tanaka, Keishi Otomo (Director) Bottom, From Left: Yu Aoi, Takeru Satoh, Emi Takei, Koji Kikkawa at the premiere of Warner Bros.’ local production, Ruouni Kenshin PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES Tokyo’s Longest Running Society Page, with Bill Hersey
s I write this, it is a super hot day and feel safe in Last month or so Min-On brought over almost 50 talented young saying it’s hot and humid when you’re reading Chinese performers from the Shaanxi Song and Dance Troupe to this issue of Weekender. As they say, time flies perform their musical, Moon Over the Capitol, with music and dance when you’re busy and August has come and of the Tang dynasty. The Japanese version of the broadway show, gone - hopefully it will start to cool down in a few Rock of Ages (Warner Brothers just released the film version of the weeks.A Most of my friends are back from their summer holidays, musical, starring Tom Cruise), had a Pop Idol star who really got his Ramadan is over for our muslim friends and the kids are back act together well. He looked only about eighteen but later, backstage, in school. Fashion outlets are showing off their cooler and cold I learned he was in his early 40’s. I didn’t ask him who his plastic weather styles and, with the light and bright new National surgeon was. Azabu supermarket recently reopening and fast becoming the community center for many people I know, I can’t believe it’s The latest production of the Broadway hit, Blast, is doing a four already September. month tour of Japan and is currently showing in Tokyo. The brass instruments, drums, choreography and talented multi-national July and August seemed to stay even busier then usual this year. In cast add up to an awesome show. I also checked out the American addition to all the National Day receptions I attended, there were production of West Side Story, which was the opening show of the new some great cultural food festivals at Yoyogi park, fashion events, all Orb Theater, in the new Hikarie building in Shibuya. What a beautiful kinds of pop and classic concerts, art exhibits, sports events, charity venue. West Side Story is 50 years old this year and they did update bazaars, movie premieres and more to keep us entertained. parts of it with a few risque words and gestures but the story, music, We can never quite slow down and that’s what makes Tokyo so songs and dances, for me, remain some of the best ever in a Broadway entertaining, exciting and enjoyable. musical.
I’m pretty much into all kinds of music so I feel really glad we have Our Israeli friends held a super gala concert at Opera City in Shinjuku clubs such as Billboard, Blue Note and Cotton Club, and great showbiz on the occasion marking 60 years of Japan-Israel relations. Over at agencies such as Udo Kyo, Creativeman and Smash who have all the the American July 4th blast, the gorgeous Crystal Kay, who I believe is top as well as up and coming pop and jazz artists coming to Japan for American-Korean and know is a super pop star here, did a dynamic, concerts. There are also agencies specializing in classical music and inspirational job of singing the American national anthem. She, by the big companies such as Sokka Gakkai’s Min-On concert association way just released a new CD which I’m going to pick up later today in bring fantastic cultural shows from all over the world. Tower Records. There was also a group called the Young Americans
SEPTEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 37
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Arab day gala at Mandarin Oriental Kenji Kosaka 7. Dinara Matsumoto, her daughter, Leila and the 1. Shijuro and Sadako Ogata, Dewi Sukarno and Khalil Hassan, the ambassador’s son, Nursel 8. Sid Ali Ketrandji, the Algerian ambassador Bahraini ambassador 2. Jamilah al-Otaibi of Kuwait, Abeer al Muslahi of with Johnathan Fried, the Canadian ambassador and Ambassador and Mrs. Oman, Zahra al Nowais of the UAE and Malawi Siam of Palestine 3. Yousef Ismayilzade 9. Mykola Kulinich, the Ukranian ambassador with his wife, Mohamed Bilal, the Qatari ambassador and Dewi Sukarno 4. Saeed al Olena 10. Westin Hotels’ Philipp Hoenneknoevel and Kim Kaudsen Nowais, the UAE ambassador with Prime Minister Yoshihiko Noda and Norman Tolman’s house party Waleed Siam, the Palestine ambassador and dean of the Arab corps 5. 11. Tolman Gallery’s Daisuke, Norman Tolman, Dylan Halterltin and Duoyi Nikolaos Tsamados, the Greek ambassador with Elyes Kasri, the Tunisian Zhang 12. The gallery’s Eiji Nagau, Akira Kubota, Marjorie Chu (of Tolman ambassador, Jasmine Tsamados and Kyoko Spector. Gallery, Singapore) and Citibank’s Suneel Bakhshi 13. The gallery’s Kiyo, Azerbaijan national day at the Hotel Okura Richard Moe and antique dealer John Adair, with Yuka and Satoshi Yamada 6. Gursel Ismayilzade, the Azerbajiani ambassador with Diet member,
www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2012 38 | SOCIETY | PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES
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EU Celebration for Europe Day Philippines national day gala at the Imperial Hotel 1. Tadashi Inuzaka, Ewa International president and his wife, Evelyne 2. 7. Manuel Lopez, the Philippine Ambassador with Abdulaziiz Turkistani, the Saudi Choreographer and ballet dancer Kosuke Yamamoto, Takako Shimazu and dancer Ambassador and Grand Hyatt GM Christophe Lorvo 8. Kazuko Kay Saizon, Kaoru Miyako Yoshida 3. Three lady ambassadors, the Czech Republic’s Katerina Fialkova, Schweisgut, Etsuko Hattori and Maria Teresa Lopez 9. Takeo Fukuda, former Prime Serbia’s Bojana Adamovic Dragovic and Colombia’s Patricia Cardenas 4. EU Minister, with Ambassador Lopez and President of the Japan-Philippine Parliamentary minister Maeve Collins, Kiyoko Fukuda (the wife of former prime minister) EU Friendship Group, Hajime Ishii 10. Welfare officer Liwayway Ilo and Philippines Vice ambassador Hans Dietmer Schweisgut, his wife Kaoru, outgoing Polish ambassador Consul Ryan C. Pondoe 11. Abdul-Rahman al Otaibi, the Kuwaiti Ambassador with his Jadwiga Rodowicz and her husband, Waldemar 5. Urs Bucher, the Swiss ambassador wife, Jamilah 12. Musicians and singers from the Philippines with John V. Roos, the US ambassador, Hans Dieter and Mori buildings’ Yoshio Karita 6. Peteris Vaivara, the Latvian ambassador, Kazuyuki Hamada, vice minister of foreign affairs and bosnian ambassador, Pero Matic.
SEPTEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 39
who put on one helluva good show. John V. Roos, the US most of the members’ embassies had come in earlier to prepare ambassador and his wife Susan really know how to set up a party. the most popular dishes of the countries they represented and believe me, it was a real gourmet treat. I’ve known Han Dietmar The same goes for Manuel Lopez, the Philippine ambassador since his days as Austrian ambassador here, he and Kaoru are and his wife Maria Teresa, who had a variety of very talented a popular couple who worked hard with other EU members to dancers, musicians and singers perform at the 114th anniversary make it the laid back and enjoyable evening it was. Kudos to all of Philippine independence. concerned.
I want to thank Mira Martnee, the Croatian ambassador for the Arab day at the Mandarin Oriental hotel invitation to a concert by highly acclaimed Croatian cellist, Ana It was a very special evening as well when the Arab ambassadors Rucner. Special guest for the concert was Neven Mimica, Croatia’s who are posted here got together with their many friends for deputy prime minister. Unfortunately I was out of Tokyo that a colourful and exciting Arab Day reception at the Mandarin evening but heard, as i knew it would be, that it was a remarkable Oriental. Things started out with speeches by Yoshihiko Noda musical experience. and Waleed Siam, the Palestine ambassador who is also dean of the Arab Diplomatic Corps. Christian Hanning, the GM of Looking ahead, the beat will continue to go on. An American the Oriental did the smart thing by allowing the participating production of another of my favorite musicals, Chicago, just countries to work with the hotel’s food and beverage staff to set opened here in Tokyo and the South African musical, Drumstruck, up the Bountiful buffet. This meant that in addition to the hotel’s is back too. excellent food, guests had the opportunity to try many other delicious foods from the participating Arab countries. Guests also In closing this part of the column I’d like to mention I’m well really enjoyed the kids marching band which was bused in from aware that many entertainment tickets, like in many cities around Tohoku. Those kids were good and really seemed to be happy in the world, are not cheap. An inexpensive and truly fun alternative what they were doing. The only downer of the night was hearing is the almost weekly Saturday and Sunday food/cultural that Christian Hassing, the hotel GM and his wife, April, will be international events in Yoyogi park. The entertainment and the leaving soon after eight years here. His new posting will be in chance to meet interesting people is free, and the food good and Singapore, where he’s worked before. This time he’ll be reasonably priced. Tokyo really does offer endless things to do. involved in the prestigious hotel chain’s properties in Malaysia and Indonesia as well. Christian and April were popular here and Normal Tolman is well known for his parties at home and the will be missed by all who had the good fortune to get to know visit of Marjorie Chu, of the Tolman Collection Singapore, was them. Take care my friends and all the best. the reason for one recently. As always, the international level of guests was great. Indian Suneel Bakhashi is back in Tokyo after Lopez reception at Imperial Hotel celebrates Philippines 114th 18 years, as Citibank’s head of global investment, and American Independence Day Dylan Halterlein, who was with his Beijing born wife, Duoyi. The Imperial Hotel’s Fuji room really had a festive air for the Others included antique dealer John Adair, Kmazawa University’s Philippines Independence Day celebration. The hosting couple, Rick Moe and, of course, several of the Tolman Collection’s super ambassador Manuel Lopez and his wife Maria Teresa, as well as staff from New York, Hong Kong and Singapore. most of the staff and many of the guests, wore super cool Filipino fashions. The ambiance, as with most things Filipino, was relaxed EU Celebration for Europe Day and thoroughly enjoyable; it was one of those evenings where the It was a really special evening in every way when the members guests really mixed, chatted and got to know each other better. of the delegation of the European Union joined Hans Dietmar The buffet, a mix of western, Japanese, Chinese and, of course, Schweisgut, the EU Ambassador, and his wife Kaoru in hosting a Philippine specialities was excellent. Like at almost any Philippine reception on the occasion of Europe Day. The event was held in happening there was an interesting mix of good entertainment, the spacious and ultra-modern Europa House in Minami Azabu. including traditional songs and several numbers by one of the The boldly designed building, with the flags of the 27 Philippines’ top violinists. The Philippines has long been members flying at the entrance, was really impressive. one of my favorite getaways and I sincerely feel it is Once guests congratulated the hosts they moved into really under rated as a tourist destination. It’s a beautiful the main reception hall or the auditorium. Chefs from country that has so much to offer. SPONSORED CONTENT
Diplomats Pero Matic, Waleed Siam, Nikolaos Bill Hersey and the pop band Cash Dutch Clown Rene Boseman and Abeer Tsamados and Sami Ukelli go Hawaiian Cash at the New Lex at a party for disabled kids
www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2012 40 | WEEKENDER | EXPAT LIFE
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SEPTEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com ADVERTORIAL | TRAVEL | 41 hoshinoya karuizawa
f only Japan could embrace its unique culture a little more Looking for even more zen-style therapy, next up was the and yet continue to modernize” This, the resort’s motto, meditation bath. Exclusively for guests, you can try the Iis the ideal upon which Hoshinoya Karuizawa was built. Hikari-no-heya (bath in the light) or the Yami-no-heya (bath in Hidden away on a richly forested mountain, it is a place of the dark); both soothing experiences which help stimulate the stunning beauty which mixes minimal design with a modern senses. Another option is the Tombo-no-yu, an outdoor bath ethos to create a space where guests can relax and recuperate with a great view of the pond which the resort surrounds. from the stresses of everyday life. Though only 90 minutes from Tokyo, it feels like its a million miles away. If you are looking to do something a little more active during your stay at the resort, there is an opportunity to take part in On arrival, we are met by the calming sound of chimes and bells an ‘eco-tour’. You can see a variety of animals, such as rabbits, of a specially created instrument in the reception area. After a foxes and even flying squirrels. Mountain biking trails may welcome tea service in the main building, we were taken to our suit the even more adventurous amongst visitors. room, a short drive away. There are 77 guest rooms at the resort, spread throughout the area. There is a great selection of choices for where to eat, including traditional Japanese (Kasuke), casual style Japanese From the outside they look like traditional cottages from the (Sonmin Shokudo), as well as a high class French restaurant Meiji era, so it was a surprise to open the door to see such state of (Bleston Court Yukawatan). If you want something a little the art, stylish furniture. All the rooms are very spacious with a lighter, it’s only a short walk down to Harunire Terrace, balcony overlooking a mountain stream. To be so close to nature where there are a selection of small cafes. from the comfort of our room was a fantastic feeling. Other facilities include a library lounge, a meeting room, a tea After a gentle stroll around the grounds, taking in the atmosphere, house and a children’s playroom, which allows parents the it was time for a massage. Hoshinoya offers a range of Japanese opportunity to be pampered while their children are taken shiatsu, oriental relaxation and oil treatments. Shiatsu seemed a care of by Hoshinoya staff. It seems as though they really fitting choice so we laid back, forgot everything and enjoyed 80 have thought of everything at this truly heavenly resort. minutes of pure bliss.
Addresss: Hoshino, Karuizawa-machi, Kitasaku-gun, Nagano, 389-0194 Tel: +81-(0)50-3786-0066 (8:00~21:00) Web: global.hoshinoresort.com/hoshinoya_karuizawa AGENDA 1
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6 AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN AUGUST
SEP 22/3 SEP 22 SEP 8 SEP 21 Tokyo Game Show Australian Society James Ensor Salsa Legends Under the slogan, Tokyo Barbecue The largest collection Celebrating their 50th “Spreading Smiles Join the Aussies for of Ensor’s work, at anniversary this year, Through Games, cosplayers collect their annual Family Summer the Royal Museum of Fine Arts “Latin Grammy-winning guardians together with gamers to see the BBQ in the beautiful gardens in Antwerp, brings 50 of his most of the classic salsa sound” El Gran latest advances and releases, with of the Australian Embassy. All influential sketches and paintings to Combo de Puerto Rico touch down the world’s media watching closely. nationalities and ages welcome! Tokyo for an intriguing new show. for the Tokyo leg of their world tour. Time: 10:00 - 17:00 | Tickets: ¥1,200 Time: 13:00 - 16:00 | Tickets and info Time: 10:00 - 18:00 (closed Mon) Tickets: Time: 18:30 (19:20 start) | Tickets: ¥8,000 More info: tgs.cesa.or.jp/english see site: www.australiasocietytokyo.com ¥1,000 More: www.sompo-japan.co.jp More info: www.vivela.jp Venue: Makuhari Messe, Chiba Venue: Australian Embassy, Mita Venue: Sompo Japan, Shinjuku Venue: Studio Coast
OCT 5-8 SEP 9 SEP 7-9 SEP 19 Cool Kyoto Stephen Malkmus Tokyo Jazz Festival Scissor Sisters Made in Kyoto and the Jicks This is a weekend for Always given quite a products and crafts Ex-Pavement front- serious jazz fans to get reception in Tokyo, will show off the stylish, traditional, man brings his band to Tokyo their teeth into, spread across three these ever-flambouyant glam cute and of course cool side of for a warm-up gig ahead of an venues and involving everyone popsters arrive to show off their Kyoto, the city in which organisers Antipodean tour. We can’t wait to from Ben E. King to Balkan Beat Box newish album and have a little fun say we can find Japan’s heart. see this. to Burt Bacharach. Brilliant. while they’re at it. Time: Various, see site. | Tickets: Free. Time: 18:00 (19:00 start)| Tickets: ¥6,000 Time and Tickets: Various, some free. Time: 18:00 (19:00 start) | Tickets: ¥6,500 More info: www.cool-kyoto.jp More info: www.creativeman.co.jpVenue: Venue: Tokyo International Forum; Cotton More: www.smash-jpn.com Venue: Akasaka Sakas. Shibuya DUO Music Exchange Club More: www.tokyo-jazz.com Venue: Studio Coast
SEPTEMBER 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com AUGUST | AGENDA | 43
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SEP 5 - 9 SEP 29/30 fo Belgian Beer Yoga in the Park h bi Weekend Hour long sessions taught ylis rvices Five days, 77 different in English and Japanese in tercare support fo beers, plenty of food and all within Yoyogi Park, with all proceeds going se ll af a stone’s throw of Roppongi Hills. straight to the Tyler Foundation, eat ercise and stay in shape this summe th a st
We know where we’ll be the second which helps children in Gr Fu seminars and organise weekly rides. (A selection of bikes is always available for test.) Our trained staff provide everything you need to get started. We even run regular Regular free maintenance support (at 1 month, 6 months, and year) Free bicycle maintenance and puncture repair workshops held regularly. ■ ■ Ex weekend of September. Sante! Japan who have cancer. wi Time: 11:00 - 22:00 (Starts 16:00 on Sep 5) Time: 21:00 - late | Donation: ¥1,000 Venue: Roppongi Hills Arena. Info: www.bit.ly/PU3LIG
More: www.belgianbeerweekend.jp/eng. Venue: Yoyogi Park (no reservation needed)
SEP 9 SEP 28 Meguro Sanma Festival Still Alive The streets near Meguro Hamburg based artist Station get their annual Claudia Ahlering follows footfall in just a day as visitors flock up her well-received Japan debut to welcome the sanma season with last year with a solo show of some freely dished out grilled fish. impressive, specially commissioned Get there early. oil paintings and drawings. Time: 9:00 - no fish left...| Fish: Free! Time: 13:00 - 19:00 (closed Mondays) More info: www.owarai.to/meguro (J) Tickets: ¥9,000 | Venue: Hiromart Gallery Venue: Meguro Stn. East exit, 1 min walk More: http://hiromartgallery.com
www.tokyoweekender.com SEPTEMBER 2012 BACK IN THE DAY: September 1982 Check out the scene in Tokyo from 1982! View Weekender’s 42 year archive online. www.tokyoweekender.com/weekender-archives/