A GUIDE TO THE 2020 UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY

TABLE OF CONTENTS

WELCOME 4 2019 Edition published 21

President’s Message 5 2019 Carbon Footprint Report 22

GA PRACTICAL INFORMATION 8 UIAA STRATEGY PROCESS 23

GA 2020: A Guide 8 An Update 23

Voting Procedures 8 UIAA IN 2020 24 Programme Overview 10 GLOBAL MOUNTAIN NETWORK UIAA during Covid-19 24 Agenda 12 UIAA Statement 28 ELECTIONS 16 Impact on UIAA Ice World Tour 30 President 16 Safety 32 Executive Board 17

Alpine Summer Skills Handbook 34 Management Committee 18

UIAA Annual Awards 36 MEMBER ASSOCIATIONS 20

Membership updates 20 UIAA Commissions 38

ANNUAL REPORT 21 UIAA Office & Communication 42

Credit Cover Image: Rémy Duding - www.remyduding.ch 3 Note: Some information is subject to change and updates will be provided by the UIAA Office. 2020 UIAA General Assembly PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE

Address from UIAA President Frits Vrijlandt

As I embark on my final weeks as UIAA President, I wanted to share my appreciation for the eight years we have spent together. We, like true mountaineers, have conquered many challenges and have always done so as a team. When I leave the UIAA in October it is the people I will miss the most. I’m very sad not to be able to see you all in person to say farewell, but circumstances dictate that holding the GA online is the most sensible and responsible option. My hope is that during one of the first in-person meetings next year that I will have a chance to see as many of you as possible.

This digital guide to the General Assembly (and related One of the biggest tasks this year will be electing my supporting documents) are designed to help you best successor. I wish this person all the best in a challenging prepare for the various sessions and meetings. The and deeply rewarding role. With the full support of an international and passionate Executive Board, they will online format will herald a different kind of meeting achieve great things. so absorbing as much information as possible before

the GA will help you prepare any questions and make In the meantime and until the GA, here are some informed decisions. reflections on my time with the UIAA.

4 5

©UIAA 2020 UIAA General Assembly

On Covid-19 On Becoming President Challenges

This has been one of the biggest challenges we have faced over the In 2012 at the GA in Amsterdam, the choice for President was between myself The role has been demanding and not always easy. The UIAA is an organisation Future past eight years. I feel very blessed to be healthy. Covid-19 has had and another extremely prepared candidate. When it was confirmed that I had with a lot of different responsibilities, projects and visions. As a mountaineer from a severe impact on the world, on our communities and federations, received the most votes I was very happy but also aware of the scale of the task a ‘flat country’ I am used to travelling to go climbing and absorbing different I hope to be able to continue my relationship with the UIAA in some and on our climbing and activities. We need to to serve our member federations. My first responsibility, the morning after the opinions and viewpoints and above all respecting them. There are areas where capacity. For now it is time for a new leader and for me to take a break. focus on supporting each other. elections, was to organise the roles in the Executive Board and to be briefed we could have done better. However with the relatively limited funding available I Should they seek my advice or support, I am always available. by our Executive Director on ongoing matters. There have been many changes These are challenging times and circumstances. Many of our over the past eight years, both in the EB and the Office, and I think we now have believe we deliver great value. One of my biggest regrets is the departure of the Italian Alpine Club (CAI) from the UIAA after 85 years as a partner and one of our Thank you to all of our member associations, EB, MC, Commission activities have paused until better times. Climbers and mountaineers a team which has worked better than ever. founding federations. I hope they return. Presidents and members, Office staff, partners, sponsors, athletes and all are flexible and creative people and able to handle challenges. Achievements and Memories This is shown in the work and response of our Commissions and delegates for your support over the past eight years. There have been many fine memories and successes. The return of the DAV Strategic Plan federations. and OAV to the UIAA was a significant moment. I also fondly remember the The UIAA should remain the global voice of climbers and mountaineers The main impact is that currently it is not an option to organise General Assembly in Flagstaff, Arizona (2014) organised by our honorary for sustainability, mountain protection, access, safety and general international gatherings. In a recent statement, we advised our member Bill Putnam who passed away a few months later. Other moments climbing and mountaineering activities. The UIAA Safety Label remains which stand out are the UAAA (Union of Asian Alpine Associations) gatherings, members to enjoy climbing and mountaineering locally as travel See you the highest, global standard and one we should continue to promote restrictions due to Covid-19 apply for many countries in the world. recognising Reinhold Messner and Injeong-Lee as Honorary Members, the in the mountains, We stay regularly updated on the global situation and continue to realisation of the Respect the Mountains projects, the UIAA Mountain Protection and evolve. More than ever, in age of information overload, promoting share knowledge and information with our federations through our Award ceremonies, the adding of new translations of our technical climbing safe and responsible climbing is key. I believe we should continue to communication platforms and Covid-19 portal. Despite the slowdown handbook with The Petzl Foundation, the great support for the development of offer leadership in mountain protection on a global stage, support ice on some of our activities I am confident we will pick things up again from the late Han DongSoo, Governor of Cheongsong County and climbing athletes in their Olympic dream, and provide a platform for our with great energy as soon as it is possible. Indeed, a lot of good of Mr Sung KiHak, Chairman of Youngone Corporation, the UIAA Ice Climbing Commissions to deliver their excellent work. The UIAA is as valid and and productive work has not halted. The UIAA has been agile in World Cup events in China, Europe and America together with the showcase Frits Vrijlandt important today as it was when founded nearly 90 years ago. Discussions finding new ways of working and moving forward. I also want to take at the Olympic Games in Sochi and the celebrations – through the Nepal UIAA President this opportunity to thank the volunteers and staff who make up the Mountaineering Association - of the first ascents of the highest Himalaya peaks about the next Strategic Plan of the UIAA will form an integral part of this Covid-19 Crisis Consultation (CCC) Taskforce. They have done some in Nepal. But mostly I treasure the warmth and great moments shared with the year’s GA. Please be prepared to contribute – your input in the future of excellent work in steering the UIAA through these troubled times. climbers and mountaineers of the world. the UIAA is essential to its continued success.

6 7 2020 UIAA General Assembly VOTING GA Practical Information PROCEDURES Voting Protocol

Each UIAA member association must designate a voting Elections: For multiple choice ballots, the number of votes GA 2020: A GUIDE The General Assembly will have a delegate by indicating the name and email address through must correspond to the number of open seats (as indicated), the GA registration form sent by the UIAA Office. if more votes than seats are indicated the ballot will be invalid. chance to VOTE for the approval of Due to the Covid-19 pandemic, the GA 2020, originally scheduled to take place The designated voting delegate will receive a voting code Voting results will be handled by designated UIAA Office staff the online meeting at the start of prior to the GA, which will need to be kept handy. In order on 24 October in Antalya, Turkey, organised by the Turkish Mountaineering members, who will sign a declaration of secrecy prior to the to submit a vote, the designated voting delegate will need to GA e-meeting. Federation, will now be held virtually. This decision was based on the the GA 2020. At this time, two votes enter the voting code, along with his/her first and last name. recommendation of the UIAA Management Committee Meeting on 5 June 2020 and Once voting results are validated by the designated UIAA will be held: On the day of the GA, the designated voting delegate will was communicated to member federations on 9 June 2020. receive the meeting agenda containing all voting links, Office staff members, the voter's information will be erased. based on the voting rights of the respective UIAA member The resulting anonymous data will be kept for 30 days after association (e.g. full versus associate members). the GA, as per Swiss Law. As identified in the accompanying agenda and programme, the online format of the GA A vote to APPROVE that the UIAA General Assembly The voting links will only be open during the time slot of At any point, should technical problems arise, please contact will see the traditional format split into sessions on both Friday 23 and Saturday 24 October. the GA e-meeting and exact start and end times will be will be held online the UIAA Office at [email protected] immediately. communicated during the meeting by the meeting chair. Furthermore, the Commission Presidents and Management Committee meetings will be Further instructions will be given via email.

held the weekend prior. This is to enable the meetings to be spread out, to accommodate Proxy votes will not be accepted. A vote to APPROVE the The UIAA Office will hold training sessions on set days prior to E-Meeting different time zones and to make the online format less intense. proposed Voting Protocol the GA, during which the voting procedure can be tested. All For each agenda item, the designated voting delegate Platform & Security must submit his/her vote only once. Should more than one delegates are encouraged to join one of the training sessions submission be received only the last submission within the to allow a smooth running of the GA e-meeting including Registration The platform chosen for the GA is allotted time frame will count as valid. voting. GA registration must be completed using the online questionnaire form which is Zoom, one of the easiest tools to open in the Members Area on the UIAA website (the same area where supporting set up and use. The UIAA Office has documents are uploaded). E-Meeting Training been keeping on top of protocol and Training for delegates will be provided before the meeting. The training dates and times Federations may select ONE voting member and two additional delegates to attend the are listed on the programme with corresponding links (see page 10). Links to the sessions best practices to ensure a safe and online GA. You will be asked to indicate this when you register. Only the voting member /09 25 are provided in the version of the Agenda available on the Members’ portal. UIAA staff DEADLINE secure meeting. * For added security will receive a ballot that will be sent directly to the delegate shortly before the General for GA registration will be available to run you through the voting and meeting procedures. We recommend only registered members will receive Assembly. For security reasons only delegates who register for the GA will be sent the link that your attending delegates attend one of these sessions. Please contact the UIAA Office links to meetings. to the GA meetings. Additional guests may watch a stream of the GA live on YouTube. if you any specific questions. 8 9 2020 UIAA General Assembly MEMBER FEEDBACK & CONTRIBUTIONS FRIDAY, 23 OCTOBER E-Meeting, 13.00 – 17.00 CET Live on YouTube Agenda Item Questions Presentations, Q&A and Town Hall with For member federation candidates for UIAA President Please send any questions concerning agenda items, supporting documents and e-meeting guests (not voting protocol that you would like to be addressed at the General Assembly by 14 October. These SATURDAY, 24 OCTOBER delegates or active meeting PROGRAMME OVERVIEW questions should be sent to [email protected]. E-Meeting, 13.00 – 17.30 CET participants), the UIAA GA UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY 2020 Registration: 12.00 – 13.00 CET will be streamed live on YouTube. Access details will Questions for Presidential Candidates & Commissions be provided in due course by A moderated Town Hall will be held during the 23 October session where members will have the the UIAA Office. opportunity to hear introductions from candidates running for UIAA President and participate in live question and answers.

Mon, 12 Oct Tue, 13 Oct Wed, 14 Oct Thu, 15 Oct Fri, 16 Oct Sat, 17 Oct Sun, 18 Oct Would your federation like to ask a question to the candidates nominated for the seat of President, Executive Board or Management Committee? You may also may send questions to UIAA Online Training Online Training Executive Board Management Meeting 13.00 – 17:00 09.00 – 13:00 Meeting Committee Meeting Commission Commissions. Please send any questions for consideration here. 13.00 – 16.00 13.00 – 17:00 Presidents/EB/MC 13.00 – 15.00 Best Practices & Climate Change

The UIAA Office has sent out information for members to share details about their best practices

Mon, 19 Oct Tue, 20 Oct Wed, 21 Oct Thu, 22 Oct Fri, 23 Oct Sat, 24 Oct Sun, 25 Oct Sat, 26 Sep and successful projects which could benefit other UIAA members and vice versa. Please use theBest Practices Questionnaire to tell the UIAA about one project your association is particularly proud of. Online Training Online Training Online Training GENERAL GENERAL Executive Board Management 13.00 – 17:00 09.00 – 13:00 13.00 – 17:00 ASSEMBLY ASSEMBLY Meeting Committee and The UIAA will use the information to present some case studies at the 2020 UIAA General Assembly Presentations, Registration 13.00 – 15.00 Commission and assure your work is duly recognised. In the same spirit, all UIAA member associations pledged Q&A and Town Hall 12.00 – 13.00 Presidents with candidates for Meeting 13:00 - 17:00 CET their support of the Climate Change Initiative presented at the 2019 General Assembly by the UIAA President 13.00 – 17:30 (Zurich Time) German Alpine Club (DAV). Please use the Climate Change Initiative Questionnaire to update the 13:00 – 17:00 UIAA about your association’s efforts to combat climate change.

10 11 2020 UIAA General Assembly

AGENDA Item Type Who Documents Friday, 23 October 2020 Commission and WG projects and activities, 2nd sequence: Mountain Protection Commission Carolina Adler UIAA Initiative on Climate Change Item Presentations Members Type Who Documents A 8. Reports Everest and Kilimanjaro Working Group – sustainable Discussion Greg Moseley and responsible mountaineering A 1. Welcome and opening remarks by the UIAA President Information Frits Vrijlandt Members, EB New initiatives and WGs: ideas from members and UIAA guidance for new WGs, initiatives and activities A 2. Introduction to e-meeting procedures Information Carol Kahoun Protocol A 9. Unit Member report: International Federation (ISF) Presentation Silvio Calvi Report A 3. Annual Report 2019 Presentation Peter Bourne Annual Report Commission and CCC Taskforce projects and activities, 3rd sequence: Commission projects and activities, 1st sequence: Amit Chowdhury Peter Farkas Safety Commission Mountaineering Commission Carlos Teixeira Steve Long Ice Climbing Commission A 4. Training Panel Presentations Reports A 10. Presentations Marija Andjekovic Reports JJ Ibáñez Martín Anti-Doping Commission Access Working Group Urs Hefti Pavlos Georgiades Medical Commission Youth Commission CCC Taskforce Covid-19 Crisis Consultation Taskforce – update and member feedback

Finance Continental Results A 11. Continental Reports Presentations Annual Report Result 2019, auditor’s report and discharge to the Executive Board Presentation Representatives A 5. Peter Muir Forecast Result 2020 forecast Q & A Budget Budget 2021 Elections and Nominations Candidates for UIAA President (2’ per candidate) Candidates for Executive Board (2’ per candidate) Nominees and UIAA Strategy Presentations NN A 12. Candidates for Management Committee (2’ per candidate) re-nominees A 6. Update Presentation Lode Beckers Proposal Q & A Candidate file Decisions ahead NN Moderated Town Hall Candidates for UIAA President

A 7. UIAA Court and Code of Ethics report Information Pierre Humblet Annual Report A13. Other Business All

12 13 2020 UIAA General Assembly

Saturday, 24 October 2020

Item Type Who Documents Item Type Who Documents

1. Welcome and opening remarks by the UIAA President UIAA Strategy 7. Votes Lode Beckers Proposal 1.1. Members present and apologies for absence Information Frits Vrijlandt Decisions items 1.2. Declaration of voting members present and majority Elections and Nominations 2. Approval of the agenda Vote Frits Vrijlandt Agenda UIAA President 8. Vote Executive Board members Nominees and 8.1. Vote Frits Vrijlandt re-nominees 3 Approval of the minutes of the 2019 General Assembly in Larnaca, Cyprus Vote Frits Vrijlandt Minutes Management Committee members 8.2. Vote Candidate files 8.3. UIAA President’s report Words of Farewell and Thanks 4. (Commissions, Office, Marketing, Communication Vote Frits Vrijlandt Annual Report reports: Refer to UIAA 2019 Annual Report) 9. New UIAA President Welcome Address UIAA President

5. Finance Future General Assemblies Vote Annual Report 10. GA 2021: 23 October 2021, Trabzon, Turkey Vote 5.1. Result 2019, auditor’s report and discharge to the Executive Board 10.1. Information Peter Muir Forecast (re-confirm host, previously selected for 2020) Vote Nils Glatthard Application 5.2. Result 2020 forecast 10.2. documents Vote Budget GA 2022, candidate: Canada Vote 5.3. Budget 2021 10.3. GA 2023, candidate: Malta

6. UIAA Membership Vote Applications 11. Other Business 6.1. New applicants, change of membership category Information Lode Beckers 6.2. Good governance: conflict of interest, signing of declaration Information List 6.3. Non-payment of membership fees

14 15 2020 UIAA General Assembly

Elections EXECUTIVE BOARD PRESIDENT Amit Chowdhury CANDIDATES (2-3 open seats) Françoise Jaquet CANDIDATES (1 seat) India (**) Re-election

Indian Mountaineering Foundation Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) ©UIAA (IMF) Martín Lascano González Central & South America Representative UIAA – Managment Committee

Re: UIAA Management Committee Re-nomination Amit Chowdhury Martin Lascano Peter Farkas Dear collegues, India Argentina Hungary

Indian Mountaineering Federaciòn Argentina Hungarian Mountaineering and Sport The growth of the practiceFoundation of mountaineering (IMF) and its de Ski y Andinismo (FASA) Climbing Federation (MHSSZ) universality is not a coincidence. The advancement of Name: Wang Yongfeng technology, the media and social networks show us that Date of Birth: 18/10/1963 today there are no limits, mountains and their natural Position: Vice President of CMA environment are increasingly within reach. EB Member of UIAA In this constant change, theHélène UIAA must Denis continue to be the engine to strengthen sports WangUniversity: Yongfeng China University of Geosciences growth, without neglectingFrance the natural environment and respecting the values that ChinaEducation: Master of Geology Peter Muir mountaineering has taught us: Mountaineering ethics, camaraderie, the importance of style Climbing Finished the 7 continents Canada and respect, above successFédération or the summit Française itself. des Clubs ChineseExperience: Mountaineering Summits in 12 years These values are what haveAlpins shaped et deme Montagne as a mountaineer. (FFCAM) My (**) passion and commitment to Association (CMA) – Re-election (**) Alpine Club of Canada Mt. Carstensz Pyramid(5030m), 1999 the mountains is over 30 years old. Starting with climbing on all types of terrain, on national (ACC) Mt. Kilimanjaro(5963m), 1998 expeditions and as a mountaineering professor, to continue for the last 20 years as a sports 16 manager. Within the mountain club that taught me to climb, in the Argentine Federation Mt. Elbrus(5633m), 199717 and the UIAA itself, in the Safety Commission and the Management Committee. Where I Mt. Aconcagua(6962m), 1994 contributed this passion and commitment; and over the years, the experience gained. Mt. Qomolangma(8844.43m), 1993 Central and South America is one of the great pending challenges for UIAA, which I have Mt. McKinley(6195m), 1992 assumed four years ago, achieving effective and permanent communication with UIAA Mt.Vinson Massif(5140m), 1987 member countries and those that are not. My new challenge is that the countries, from this part of the world, that are not members come to UIAA and want to be part of our great mountain family. It would be an honor to be able to continueRespectful the work already President started. Frits , All the dear federation members of UIAA: Sincerely, Firstly, I would like to thank UIAA for giving me this opportunity to attend EB re- election of UIAA.

Since the establishment of Chinese Mountaineering Association in 1958, it has organized dozens of high mountain exploration and rescue training activities with great th influence at home and abroad. This year was the 60 anniversary of the first Chinese climbing Mt.Qomolangma, and it is also a year for China to carry out the re Martín Lascano González measurement of Mt. Everest. The Survey Team of Mt. Mt.Qomolangma 2020 is mainly Bariloche – Argentina composed of members selected by Chinese Mountaineering Association, and I worked as the commander in chief. This is also the first time that human beings have carried out gravity survey on the peak of Mt.Qomolangma.

We have attached great importance to the environmental protection of mountains for a long time. Every spring and autumn, after receiving the foreigners climbing in China, we will clean up the mountaineering garbage, mainly for the comprehensive treatment and classified treatment of the mountaineering garbage of Mt. Qomolangma,

Mt. Cho Oyu and Mt. Shishapangma in Tibet, China. In the future, we will continue to explore the “environmental protection + rescue” Patten , let the local people to fully participate in the development of mountaineering environmental protection and

2020 UIAA General Assembly

MANAGEMENTMartín Lascano González COMMITTEE CANDIDATES (8 open seats) (*) also nominatedCentral for& South EB position America / (**) Representative Re-election UIAA – Managment Committee Steve Long Re: UIAA Management Committee Re-nomination Mountaineering Instructor and International Mountain Guide

Anne Arran Tan yr Onnen,Martin Lascano * Jean Miczka Reza Zarei Dear collegues, UK Brynrefail,Argentina France Iran Phone: 01286 871140 Caernarfon, British Mountaineering Council Federaciòn Argentina Fédération Française des Iran Mountaineering & Sports e-mail: [email protected] growth of the practice(BMC) of (**)mountaineering and its Gwynedd.de Ski y Andinismo (FASA) (**) Clubs Alpins et de Montagne (FFCAM) Climbing Federation (MSFI) (**) universality is not a coincidence. The advancement of LL 55 3PE technology, the media and social networks show us that 17 August, 2020 today there are no limits, mountains and their natural End of term: environment are increasingly within reach.

In this constant change,Kul the UIAA Bahadur must continue Gurung to be the engine to strengthen sports Steve Long Greg Moseley Georges Elziere UIAA Office growth, without neglecting the natural environment and respecting the values that Nepal UK South Africa France Monbijoustrasse 61 Postfachmountaineering has taught us: Mountaineering ethics, camaraderie, the importance of style Bern 23 Switzerland and respect, above successNepal or the Mountaineering summit itself. British Mountaineering Council (BMC) Mountain Club of Fédération Française des CH-3000 Association (NMA) South Africa (MCSA) (**) Clubs Alpins et de Montagne (FFCAM) Switzerland These values are what have shaped me as a mountaineer. My passion and commitment to the mountains is over 30 years old. Starting with climbing on all types of terrain, on national Dear Colleagues: expeditions and as a mountaineering professor, to continue for the last 20 years as a sports manager. Within the mountain club that taught me to climb, in the Argentine Federation I have been President of the MCSA for the last four years and have been on the Management I wish to apply for a place onand the the UIAA UIAA itself,Management in the Safety Committee Commission . and the Management Committee. Where I Committee of the UIAA as the Africa Continental Representative for that same time. I have taken an contributed this passion and commitment; and over the years, the experience gained. active part in the MC meetings and have assisted in the “High Mountain” initiative aimed at dealing Françoise Jaquet * Seiichiro Simon Maru Stein Tronstad Juan Garrigos i Toro I have been the chair (now president) of the Training Panel for 14 years (since 2006) and have taken a strong role in with mountain issues as the emerge. I feel that I have unfinished business that I am very keen to Central and South AmericaSwitzerland is one of the great pending challenges for UIAA, which I have Japan complete. I have built up a good network of friends and like-mindedNorway colleagues both within and Spain developing the aims and objectivesassumed four of this years very ago, active achieving group. effective We haveand permanent found that communication training has withbecome UIAA an increasingly outside the formal UIAA structures. I am still active in the mountains! important factor in the motivationmember fo countriesr joining and the thoseSwiss UIAA that Alpine expressed are not. Club My (SAC) new by (**)newchallenge members. is that the In countries, intend to from continue this leadingJapan this Mountaineering & Sports Norwegian Climbing Federation (NTK) Federación Española se Deportes de group for a few more yearspart, and of also the worl to continued, that are working not members on training come to projects UIAA and when want tointernational be part of our travel great becomes viableClimbing Association (JMSCA) Montaña y Escalada (FEDME) again. mountain family. It would be an honor to be able to continue the work already started. 18 19

Sincerely, I would like to take a more active role in the managementI amof theSeiichiro UIAA Simon goals Maru, and and delivery. as the Vice I believe President that of JMSCA,as an active I have carried out the climber and mountaineer I have a good understanding andfollowing connection two missions with “grassroots” in Japan. To reduce participants the number and of theirclimbing needs. accidents caused by poor planning and to seek out new relationships and sponsorships for future events. I also believe that the UIAA needs to develop more tangible services that climbers and mountaineers will value, and thereby empower both the member organisations and the UIAA itself. The UIAA can collect information from its member organisations and use this data to filter and analyseIn 2018,information there were that 3129 is otherwise climbing accidents virtually within imp Japanossible and to 38% collect. of those incidents It can also increase its visibility to grassroot members andinvolved reassert people its who position lost their as way the due foremost to unrealistic world plans. authority We are aiming on to reduce those mountaineering values, protection of the mountain environmentnumbers and from development upwards of 1,000 of sport cases by by workingfocusing onin accidentclose harmony prevention using SNS and with partner organisations in both the voluntary and professionalMartínother Lascano tools. sectors. GonzálezDue to these efforts, the total number of accidents has been reduced by 6% in Bariloche2019. However, – Argentina the percentage of accidents caused by losing one’s way still accounts for 38% of total accidents. In 2018, we had 342 reports of deaths or missing persons. However, we were able to reduce those numbers by 14% in 2019 by enhancing the rescue system. We would like to share our successful cases with the climbers of the world. On the other Yours Sincerely,hand, we have accidents that are sort of unique to Japan. They are caused by the lack of climb leaders. Also, they tend to happen to small parties that do not belong to any climbing organizations. We are determined to make a greater effort to incorporate the knowledge and safety precautions of European and/or American climbers in order to reduce those accidents unique to Japan.

In August 2019, we hosted the Sports Climbing World Championships. The Combined World Championships in Tokyo 2019 was, so to speak, a rehearsal to the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. It was a great challenge for us to make it a successful lead-up to the Olympics. It was the JMSCA’s first time holding such a large scale event and we had great hopes that it would be a successful precursor to the Olympics. In order to succeed, we focused on educating many staff members, preparing ourselves to receive invited athletes, strengthening hospitality, Steve Long exploring new broadcasting methods, and inviting sponsoring enterprises. However, in order to hold the World Championships, it cost us far more than we expected. JMSCA sustained a Mountaineeringgreat Instructor loss financially and British and its Mountainextent was shockingGuide to us. I believe that any National Federation can’t avoid making financial sacrifices. The Japan Sports Agency guides us towards financial soundness of organizations like us. While I followed their guidelines, I visited many institutions and individual climbing fans and spent a lot of time with them in order to build up connections that would lead to new sponsorships.

Based on these experiences, I sincerely hope to be able to contribute to the UIAA under new normal environment for two years starting in 2021.

2020 UIAA General Assembly Annual Report The DIGITAL Member Associations VERSION of this Annual Report is The online directory of UIAA member associations 2019 EDITION available at: MEMBERSHIP can be found here. Members are encouraged to use PUBLISHED the platform to share details of climbing in their Contents include: The UIAA published its 2019 Annual Report in May 2020. UPDATES respective countries and regions. • President’s Annual Message Application for membership to the UIAA The digital report provides easier access to key resources – such as UIAA news articles, video content and online resources. • A Review of 2019

A printed version of the report will be distributed to UIAA member • UIAA General Assembly 2019 associations over the coming weeks and months. Saudi Climbing & International Commission • UIAA Strategy Process Hiking Federation for Alpine Rescue (ICAR)

has applied for Full Membership has applied for Observer Membership • UIAA Financial Report

https://climbing.sa/ http://www.alpine-rescue.org/ • Details on UIAA member associations

• UIAA Office, Communication & Sponsorship reports

Costarican Federation of • Reports from every UIAA Commission Mountain Sports (FECODEM) National Adventure (Access, Anti-Doping, Ice Climbing, Association of Malaysia has applied to change its Observer MedCom, Mountaineering + Training, Membership (as of 2019) to Full Membership has applied to change its Observer Mountain Protection, Safety, Youth) as Membership (as of 2015) to Full Membership well as the UIAA Working http://www.fecodem.org/ Group and Unit Member, International https://www.facebook.com/ Skyrunning Federation. KEMBARANEGARA/

20 • Reports from the UIAA Continental bodies21 2020 UIAA General Assembly 2019 UIAA Strategy Process

CARBON FOOTPRINT AN UPDATE Next Steps REPORT The first Strategic Plan of the UIAA for the 21st Century covered the period between 2012 • The UIAA Management - 2016. The plan was revised in 2014 in order to clarify some goals and to ensure that the Committee (MC) and Commission At the close of 2019, and as part of its commitment to tackling climate change objectives were in accordance with the so-called SMART criteria (Specific, Measurable, Presidents are reviewing the Assignable, Realistic, Time-bound). proposal and providing feedback. and reducing its own CO2 emissions, the UIAA published its first annual Carbon Footprint Calculation. The next Strategic Plan was drawn up for the years In the months following the meetings in • An additional MC online meeting 2017 - 2020. It defined the goals the UIAA sought Cyprus, the UIAA Executive Board presented will take place on 26 September to achieve by 2020, based on member surveys and to further discuss and recommend This report, covering 2018, outlines the ongoing results of monitoring and reporting of the UIAA’s carbon to the Management Committee and to a SWOT analysis. For the years 2017 – 2020, it has the Commission Presidents an updated the proposal to the GA. At the footprint, which is in response to its signed commitment in early 2019 and participation under the United served as a basis for UIAA Commissions to prepare formulation of the UIAA’s vision, objectives same meeting, the MC will review Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) Sports for Climate Action. As a participant in this their own plans and for the UIAA to work towards and role. Carried by the expertise which went Commission projects and activities initiative, the UIAA is required and expected to adhere to five principles these being: those goals. into the preparation of the ‘UIAA of the 21st and discuss amended Commission Century’ report, the resulting document is a Regulations. • Principle 1: Undertake systematic efforts to promote greater environmental responsibility; To prepare the UIAA strategy for the years after compilation of the input received up to now 2020, a number of documents were drawn • After the 26 September MC • Principle 2: Reduce overall climate impact; from the various bodies of the UIAA. The new up, developing a new strategy for the UIAA, meeting, the Strategy Proposal formulation is condensed in the short-form assessing every aspect of the international will be added to the GA supporting • Principle 3: Educate for climate action; document currently being discussed. federation, its activities and the support documents. • Principle 4: Promote sustainable and responsible consumption; and provided to its members. Ahead of the 2019 The proposed reworded objectives were • Members are invited to UIAA Management Committee meeting and approved at meetings of the Executive Board, contribute before and – of course – • Principle 5: Advocate for climate action through communication. the General Assembly in Cyprus, a Strategic but they will be presented for further discussion during the GA Working Group (SWG) published their findings to Management Committee members, to the The Carbon Footprint report for 2019, which is based on a more sophisticated and extensive methodology and recommendations in a report called ‘The UIAA Commissions, to former SWG members, • Please refer to page 37-38 of the than the 2018 report and takes onboard feedback from UIAA members and the UIAA Mountain UIAA of the 21st Century’. and to the GA-voting federations. 2019 UIAA Annual Report. 22 Protection Commission, will be published before this year’s General Assembly. 23

Grajales Expeditions © 2020 UIAA General Assembly

Stock library Management Committee & Executive Board

The UIAA Management Committee was due to The Portal has proved to be one of the most As the pandemic evolved, the UIAA focused UIAA in 2020 host its in-person meeting in North Macedonia successful initiatives launched by the UIAA in more on common themes and answering in May. This was cancelled and replaced, recent times, bringing significant traffic to the more global questions. Dedicated articles for the first time, by an online meeting. The federation’s website and acting as a precious were produced regarding the opening of UIAA format proved successful with more delegates guide and reference point through these huts in Europe, worldwide travel restrictions attending than otherwise would have made troubled times. and where people could climb. There was the in-person meeting, particularly those from also specific information on climbing during Initially the focus of the Portal was on supplying DURING outside of Europe. There was also a follow Covid-19, regulations to follow particularly in y r ra updates from individual UIAA members. The ib relation to equipment and climbing with other L up Management Committee meeting and an k oc pandemic has impacted different parts of the world St people. © online meeting of all Commission Presidents. COVID-19 at different times. Learnings from initial outbreaks During the virtual MC meetings, it was decided in Asia and then in Europe proved crucial for The platform also offered an insight into the that the 2020 UIAA General Assembly would countries yet to be impacted. impact on UIAA Commissions and the progress The current pandemic has had a profound impact on everybody’s lives. For international be held online. A first for the federation in its of work. For example, both the UIAA Rock organisations like the UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – near 90-year history. In an effort to ensure the The UIAA has published over 70 articles Climbing Festival Award and UIAA Mountain significant changes to the way the federation has communicated and operated have been UIAA remains efficient and meets its targets, Protection Award were postponed until 2021. from members in 45 countries. Over half its implemented in the context of an ever-evolving situation. the UIAA EB has held virtual meetings on an Other Commissions, like the Training Panel, even more regular basis than pre-pandemic. membership has contributed to the platform. used the lockdown period when outdoor The UIAA’s response to Covid-19 was only when conditions allowed towards the Members were able to use the platform activity was not possible to work on new literature and material. proactive and has taken on many different end of June. The UIAA is accustomed to Covid-19 Portal to share learning, general rules and aspects. Below is a breakdown of some of the agile working so there was no great cultural One of the UIAA’s first tasks was to direct all regulations and approaches to key initiatives and changes: change in terms of the working environment. Covid-19 related updates to a dedicated dealing with issues such as website Portal. Like similar bodies, whether in The Office held weekly catch up meetings huts, climbing gyms, access Office with all members of the team to ensure the sports world or NGOs, the UIAA’s exclusive focus was on the impact of Covid-19 on its and implementing social From mid-March, staff at the UIAA Office in regular communication and the delivery of operations, projects and on its membership. distancing. Bern, Switzerland worked remotely, returning key projects. 24 25 2020 UIAA General Assembly

The Portal also acted as a forum to share core professionals), this group has been able to on three continents and athletes from nearly information from wider climbing media – provide leadership on a number of subjects 30 countries, the Mountain Protection Award including mental and physical health articles as the nature of the pandemic evolves. Each and Commission projects which require and general opinion pieces on the economic meeting addresses the situation across a physical meetings and workshops, are key impact of Covid-19 the climbing world. number of different countries with reports and considerations for the coming months. findings shared on the UIAA website. The UIAA has welcomed initiatives such as the CCC Taskforce Initiatives to come out of the meetings include one recently put in place by the Mountain Club of At their 7 April e-meeting, members of the a dedicated UIAA position statement on South Africa (MCSA) to run online seminars and UIAA Executive Board unanimously decided responsible climbing, an online form for UIAA workshops, through the UIAA, to foster a greater to create a Covid-19 Crisis Consultation (CCC) members to address concerns and share sense of community. The UIAA will continue to Taskforce. Its mission was to provide fast news, a donation/fundraising resource as well encourage this kind of concept to help bring the responses to queries and Covid-19-related as articles on core subjects of interest – access climbing world closer together. issues which may arise in the coming months. to huts, general rules for returning to sport Your resource for all The UIAA understands that the current The CCC enabled the UIAA to have a dedicated and the mountains. communication related to structure in place. When approached, the pandemic will have a significant impact on its Climbing and Covid-19: UIAA would be able to provide swift answers Future members whether in retaining and attracting and guidance, mainly by promptly referring their own members, on sport competitions, https://www.theuiaa.org/covid-19/ the question for consultation to a government Mass in-person international meetings are safety and training programmes, sustainability authority, to a crisis management body, to a unlikely to take place in the near future initiatives, sponsorship and donations, huts competent national federation or to a relevant and tourism. The UIAA itself will have to meaning, as a global organisation, the UIAA UIAA Commission. absorb the consequences of the current anticipates conducting its affairs online for the pandemic while continuing to fully represent

By late August, the CCC Taskforce had held Rémy Duding - foreseeable future. and support its members at a global level. four online meetings. With the support of experts from different UIAA areas (EB, The impact on UIAA projects such as the UIAA For everything related to the UIAA and Covid- www.remyduding.ch MC, Commissions and well as medical Ice Climbing World Tour, with competitions 19 please click here.

26 27 2020 UIAA General Assembly

Mountain ranges are often the natural of the topography and the difficulties in created around the world in border regions borders between countries. The recognising, for example, the watersheds and these are having a positive impact on demarcation of borders in such remote and that can be the most logical border. In some difficult geography can be contentious. instances, tectonic forces have led to streams environmental conservation, human activity This has led on occasion to diplomatic and rivers apparently ignoring the laws of and allowing the free transit of people across geomorphology by cutting through great disputes with these border issues often international borders in wild areas of the world. dating back to colonial times. The United mountain ranges. In others, the source of Examples spring to mind in Southern Africa Nations Security Council recently issued a these drainages is complicated by the source call for countries to “redouble their efforts being great masses of ice with no definite, and in Europe. Therefore, it seems logical that natural watershed being evident – as was the UIAA for peace” during this period of combating transnational parks could be created in many case in Patagonia. the coronavirus pandemic that has of the mountain ranges of the world. STATEMENT already claimed more than half a million The UIAA appreciates that often mountain lives. The UIAA is a global body of mountain Conservation of areas are of great geostrategic importance but as climbers and mountain travellers, we organisations dedicated to promoting safe, In these sometimes tense border situations, Transnational Mountain Areas consider all mountain areas to be a great responsible access to mountains and to the there are inevitably social and economic resource for the uplifting of the human spirit. protection and conservation of the world’s impacts on local communities for whom these They are fundamental to the very being and mountain ranges. We believe that the creation areas are their traditional homes and provide existence of local communities, but are also of trans-border protected areas could provide their livelihood. In addition, access restrictions deeply valued by people around the globe. a space for cross border peaceful engagement This statement was initiated by the international result in these areas being “locked up” and The UIAA in large part, exists to promote as well as support for local communities not accessible for critical conservation and network of organisations and climbers who form and the sustainable use of mountain areas for through the economic opportunities provided 15/07 climate change research or for access by support the UIAA High Mountains Working Group recreation in the true sense of that word by mountain tourism. People should not mountaineers and mountain travellers. On 15 July, the UIAA published and has benefitted from the comments and expertise – re-creation. It is sad therefore that some be excluded from such natural areas – there the following statement of members of the UIAA Management Committee, The UIAA – International Climbing and mountain ranges have been, and are, the are examples from all over the world. scenes of dispute. concerning the conservation of Commission Presidents and Commission delegates. Mountaineering Federation – appreciates that Transnational parks in mountain border areas border areas often have a problematic and are an opportunity on a number of fronts, not transnational mountain areas. www.remyduding.ch The UIAA Executive Board wish to confirm its support Reflecting this deeper value to humankind disputed historical context. The demarcation least to embrace and support the elevation of for the initiative and the content of this statement. 28 may be complicated by the complexity a number of transnational parks have been the wider human spirit. 29

Rémy Duding - © UIAA/Kaspar Kellerhals

2020 UIAA General Assembly Continental competitions will be held in Asia, IMPACT ON UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD TOUR Europe and North America with new meets to be held in Canada, the Netherlands, the USA – these RELEASE OF PROVISIONAL 2020-2021 UIAA ICE CLIMBING CALENDAR events are an ideal platform for young climbers Sixteen events in thirteen countries currently form the provisional and competition newcomers. calendar for the 2020-2021 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour The release of the calendar provides athletes with partnered by Outdoor Research. However the developing Covid-19 the opportunity to start tentatively planning their own seasons and offers a timely incentive for their situation may force significant changes training preparations. Like many other athletes, they have had to adapt both their professional Ranging from the pinnacle of the return to Champagny-en-Vanoise in the careers and training schedules during the Covid- Rob Adie 19 pandemic. French Alps. The World Championships competition arm of ice climbing – the UIAA Sports Events will be held in Saas-Fee, Switzerland the Coordinator biennial UIAA Ice Climbing World Dates in the calendar are provisional and the weekend after and for the first time with the evolution of the Covid-19 pandemic will also have Championships – through to Continental inclusion of the World Championships in The Covid-19 situation in many of the UIAA Ice a direct impact on the feasibility of hosting, and Cups, the calendar offers a more extensive the Combined discipline in addition to the Climbing World Cup host countries remains a travelling to, international competitions. The UIAA World Cup programme than last season regular lead and speed events. The World concern, as do international travel restrictions. is putting in place criteria for events to take place and increased opportunities for young Cup season resumes in North America with The UIAA Office and Ice Climbing Commission and is in regular contact with all stakeholders a potential date in Montreal and closes in climbers to establish a pathway in the sport. and following the advice of the World Health are currently working on contingency plans for an Kirov, Russia home of the 2019 UIAA Ice Organisation (WHO) and the International The World Cup component of the season Climbing World Championships. alternative 2021 Ice Climbing World Tour – which Olympic Committee (IOC). The UIAA criteria currently features five events. Starting will be published just after the GA in October. The with two competitions in Asia, repeating The other major event – the annual UIAA can be downloaded here. Please note that this provisional calendar is likely to be subject to massive 2020’s visit to Changchun City (China, to Ice Climbing World Youth Championships document is subject to change. be confirmed) and Cheongsong (South – is scheduled to take place in Tyumen, the changes with it seemingly very difficult to run any For the very latest on the UIAA Ice Climbing Promo: 2020-21 UIAA Ice Climbing Calendar Korea). The first European stop sees a sort of World Tour in 2021. here https://youtu.be/Z-IX8jLotow 30 first Russian settlement in Siberia. World Tour and Covid-19 please click . 31 2020 UIAA General Assembly RECALLS AND WARNINGS

Reports of recalls, equipment failures and warnings – published by SAFETY manufacturers – are charted on the Recalls database. Climber Skills, Advice & Videos Safety Resources For https://www.theuiaa.org/safety-standards/recalls/ The UIAA has put together a number of Climbing Community resources related to climber safety. These include belay skills videos, in partnership with The UIAA provides SAFETY LABEL HOLDERS the German Alpine Club (DAV), guides to a number of safety Climbers can quickly view which climbing gear and equipment manufacturers are UIAA Safety Label accredited. Currently there are 76 purchasing climbing equipment online, wider services for members, companies from 21 countries. UIAA SAFETY PORTAL advice on climbing gear as well as the Skills and by extension https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-safety-label/safety-label-holders/ The landing page for all UIAA Safety series run by the UIAA Training Panel. the wider climbing topics has recently been revised.

community. https://www.theuiaa.org/safety/ Below is a reminder SAFETY STANDARDS This portal provides direct access to The full list of all 24 UIAA Safety Standards can be found on the dedicated of some of the key all of the areas detailed below. page. assets. Contact UIAA SafeCom https://www.theuiaa.org/safety-standards/ Details on the UIAA Safety Commission can be found here:

UIAA SAFETY LABEL CERTIFIED EQUIPMENT MISUSE ACCREDITED LABORATORIES https://www.theuiaa.org/safety-standards/

A brief history of the UIAA Safety Label Climbers can check for gear which has been This resource was launched in the summer of Companies interested in sending equipment for testing to UIAA Safety To apply for the UIAA Safety Label please fill in the and details regarding its relevance to fully certified according to stringent UIAA Safety 2020. Its purpose is to report unauthorised following form. Standards can view the list of UIAA accredited laboratories, currently 19 the climbing world can be found on the Standards. This database is updated in real-time. use and breaches of the UIAA Safety Label. dedicated page. companies from eight countries. For all questions related to Safety please contact the https://www.theuiaa.org/safety-standards/ https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-safety-label/ UIAA Safety Label team. https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-safety-label/ certified-equipment/ misuse/ https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-safety-label/accredited-laboratories/ 32 33 2020 UIAA General Assembly • Czech: translation with the Czech Mountain Translations in progress ALPINE SUMMER SKILLS HANDBOOK Leader Association, in accordance with Jan Almost done: Update on Progress of UIAA Alpine Handbooks Bloudek, from the Czech Mountaineering For further details on the UIAA’s training Association. Published in 2019 • Mongolian: Mongolian National Climbing programmes and The annual update on the progress of the UIAA Summer Skills Alpine Handbook, produced in collaboration Federation • Korean: Korean Alpine Club. Published in materials please click with The Petzl Foundation, will be provided during the GA. Below is a summary of the progress made in here 2017. • Chinese (Taiwan): Chinese Taipei . recent years and a reminder of how members can get involved and best use the resource. Mountaineering Association • Turkish: the first translation after the English The original book ‘Memento’ was produced in French before being section has been completely rewritten by expert meteorologists. The one. Printed in 2017. • Iranian (Farsi): Iran Mountaineering and Purchase: translated into English and then in several other languages following chapter on leader-placed protection has been expanded, following Sport Climbing Federation • English: Translation by the Canadian Alpine Alpine Handbook agreements with UIAA member associations. Print versions are available feedback from UIAA honorary member Reinhold Messner. Advanced bulk Club (ACC) in 2015. In progress: exclusively through UIAA members. orders are invited from member organisations, to minimise delivery costs. • French: First version of the Handbook, • Macedonian: Mountaineering Federation A chapter is also being produced for - currently it is only in Reminder: Purchase Digital Handbook the “Memento” was created by the Petzl of North Macedonia French. It will be translated by the Canadian Alpine Club (ACC). The digital version of the English translation can be purchased online Foundation in 2013. • Indonesian: Indonesia Sport Climbing and here. Prices are subject to exchange rate changes. The book can currently Creation of Winter Skills Handbook Mountaineering Federation be downloaded for less than five euros (a little over five USD).The guide Almost published was developed specifically as a reference document for trip leaders and A Winter Skills Handbook could soon be launched, in collaboration with • Catalan and Spanish: Federació d’Entitats • Romanian: Alexandru Paun, President of the instructors of club and federations within the UIAA – an aide memoire the ACC and the Petzl Foundation. Excursionistes De Catalunya (FEEC) Romanian Alpin Club (CAR) and UIAA Ice for climbers and mountaineers who attend training courses delivered by instructors and guides who have gained qualifications accredited by the Climbing Commission member, has worked • Greek: Pavlos Georgiades, UIAA Youth Languages already published UIAA. on the Romanian edition. The book will be Commission President, proposed translating • Japanese: Japan Mountaineering and Climbing Federation. Printed printed this autumn. the document with the Mountaineering, this year. See article. Climbing and Federation of Alpine Summer Skills Handbook: New Content • Albanian: Translation by Arben Lila and Cyprus (KOMOAAP) To purchase the DIGITAL VERSION of the A new English language edition of the Alpine Skills Handbook is almost • Serbian: Nenad Dikic, former President of the UIAA Anti-Doping Teuta Bicaj / Kosovo Mountaineering and UIAA Alpine Skills Handbook (in English), ready for print publication. This contains significant additions, including Commission, worked with students on a translation into Serbian. Alpinist Federation. Almost finished, should • Arabic: Jordan Tourism Board started work including any future updates to the digital new sections on GPS navigation and summer avalanche. The weather Published in 2019. be printed soon. but this is currently on “hold”. version, click here.

34 35 2020 UIAA General Assembly

PAST MPA WINNERS

Photo: Grajales Expeditions UIAA Mountain Protection Award • 2019 Following consultation between various parties whom have many other priorities and concerns Swiss Alpine Club – Mountain Protection Commission (MPC) Switzerland at present,” explains Dr Carolina Adler, MP delegates, the Award Assessment Team, the UIAA Executive Board, UIAA Office and Commission President. • 2018 Community Action Nepal main sponsor Bally – the UIAA MPC took the “Equally we need to respect limitations on travel to UK decision in May to postpone the evaluation and the mountains for non-essential purposes as many prize designation for the 2020 UIAA Mountain of the projects showcased as part of the MPA require • 2017 Mount Everest Biogas Protection Award to 2021. ongoing physical presence in mountain regions. UIAA ANNUAL AWARDS Project Furthermore, the 2020-2021 Award will provide a The application portal – live since 1 March – remains USA The UIAA General Assembly is normally the occasion platform to help aid the recovery and regeneration open for proponents to submit projects and of many projects significantly impacted by the where the Mountain Protection Award and Rock Climbing initiatives for the 2020-2021 Award. Assessment • 2016 current crisis.” Mountain Wilderness Festival Award are both presented. Owing to Covid-19, the will commence in mid-2021 and the Award winner France 2020 editions of both UIAA platforms have been extended announced at the 2021 UIAA General Assembly, The UIAA will continue to showcase the Mountain currently scheduled for the autumn of that year. The Protection Award throughout 2020 and early 2021. • 2015 into 2021. deadline to submit applications will be confirmed An upcoming communication series will share KTK-BELT Studio at a later date. information on the progress made by past winners Nepal UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award of the Award in fulfilling their goals and ambitions. “After several online meetings and exchanges, Part of the platform’s very core is to support and • 2014 Pamir Horse Adventure The 2020 Award was scheduled to open in March 2020 and welcome the decision to postpone the Award to 2021 follow the progress of nominees and provide Tajikistan applications from festivals in Oceania and South-East Asia. The Award has been has been taken to demonstrate our solidarity to inspiration for tangible actions and initiatives that postponed until 2021. Application opens in the spring. can be taken to see better outcomes for mountain UIAA members, partners and those organising • 2013 regions worldwide, not least given the need to Menz-Guassa Community mountain-based sustainability projects during For further information please contact [email protected] or visit the prioritise new development models in light of this Conservation Area dedicated pages on the UIAA website. this unprecedented global pandemic. All of pandemic. Ethiopia 36 37 2020 UIAA General Assembly

MedCom planned to hold a short meeting in in May 2020, the Commission with its main Mountaineering UIAA COMMISSIONS June 2020 alongside the International Society partner Bally agreed to extend the 2020 MPA to Progress in 2020 for Mountain Medicine (ISMM) Congress in 2021 and accept applications throughout. The Peter Farkas Interlaken, Switzerland. Whilst the congress adapted timeline will be published by the end UIAA Commission Presidents will present progress made in 2020, and in the context of Covid-19, during the A full review of projects is ongoing including the and the adjacent meeting were cancelled, the of August 2020. A remarkable effort has gone accident report project (closed down, data to General Assembly. To aide delegate preparations for the Plenary Session, brief details of Commission work Commission invested time and resources in into drafting and finalising a Memorandum of be analysed); ISO certificate project and a Style from the publication of the 2019 Annual Report to August 2020 are provided below. joining the CCC Taskforce. The remainder of Understanding with UN Environment. As a first and Ethics initiative, which will focus on a review, the year will be used to lay out future work and output, the MPC together with UN Environment and potential face lift, of some existing UIAA closely monitored. The UIAA has published Medical projects of the Commission. Alongside the and IFMGA will hold a workshop to update the Anti-Doping declarations. specific criteria in relation to the hosting of regular updating of MedCom recommendations, standing Environmental Guidelines. Maria Andjelkovic events. An online Commission meeting was held Urs Hefti the Commission aims to publish an advice papers The Mountaineering Commission also has two on 9-10 May. Amongst other subjects, the on water and one on women in the mountains in Based on the signed commitment to adhere to Given the current freezing of competition Commission discussed the negative impact Since his election as President at the spring sub-groups, Access and Training. the coming years. Furthermore, a combination a set of five principles under the UNFCCC Sport sport, any in-competition testing has been that the cancellation of events has had in the MC in 2019, Urs Hefti has focused on the For Climate Action Framework, the Mountain put on hold. Out of competition testing may past and will seek to rectify this issue in the restructuring of the Commission and its of meeting and medical training are planned for Access continue. The Commission is primarily focusing future. activities and has called for UIAA member 2022 in Africa. Protection Commission works on systematically on compliance with the upcoming changes federations to provide greater clarity regarding displaying climate leaderships on the UIAA’s path Juan Jesus Ibanez Martin The Commission also discussed its future and is to WADA (World Anti-Doping Agency) the work they would like MedCom to focus on Mountain Protection to carbon neutrality. A first step has been achieved currently in the process of resetting its strategic regulations. (notably recommendation papers). in calculating the UIAA’s carbon footprint. The The main priority is the Access WG’s integration goals and developing a structure which will Carolina Adler into the Mountaineering Commission. Access will ensure adequate human resourcing across all Commission now aims at providing guidelines Ice Climbing The Commission, with the support of of its projects. Furthermore, this will guarantee The 2020 UIAA Mountain Protection Award, and for events and activities of the UIAA in the form also be an increasingly important and contentious some new members, published a paper in Carlos Teixeira that strategic goals can be developed Respect the Mountains (RTM) of a climate mitigation policy, which encourages issue when lockdown rules are relaxed or adapted 2020 ‘Preacclimatisation for expeditions to The 2020 UIAA and pushed forward by members of the Mountain Protection Award, and Respect the to avoid, reduce, substitute, and compensate for in different countries. The UIAA continues to The 2019-2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour Commission who are motivated and have the extreme altitude’. It tackles the subjects of Mountains (RTM) Movement were launched emissions created by the UIAA as an insitution monitor issues related to Everest (Covid-19 has concluded before lockdown. However, the skill sets required to achieve these objectives Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) prevention impact on next season’s calendar, which was towards the continued future development of and intermittent normobaric hypoxia in the beginning of the year. Both were put on and report on these results as part of the UIAA’s stopped progress) and Kilimanjaro (currently no published in July (see pages 30-31), is being ice climbing. preacclimatisation and can be viewed here. hold due to Covid-19. During its virtual meeting commitment on taking climate action. updates).

38 39 Training Panel commenced a new series answering common questions relating to the technical aspects of climbing and mountaineering equipment Steve Long received from curious climbers and making them available to the wider Piloting skills programmes continue to flourish although the current public. In response to the concern about unauthorised use of the UIAA lockdown means many are on hold. Significant progress has been made safety label trade names and logos, the Commission has setup a misuse regarding the Alpine Summer Skills handbook with new chapters and course database. material being prepared (see page 34-35 for further details). The database for training courses/certificates is undergoing final testing and nearly Youth operational. Pavlos Georgiades Safety Newly-elected YC President Pavlos Georgiades provided a snapshot of Amit Chowdhury the future focus of the Commission during May’s online Management The annual SafeCom meeting was held for the first time ‘’online’’ in Committee meeting – notably collaboration with the Training Panel to June – a full report including the significant amount of research being produce certificates and standards for youth camps and a stronger conducted by Working Groups can be found here. Two new accredited management from the Commission in running UIAA Youth camps laboratories for equipment testing have been accepted, in France, (together with member federations). Further details will be presented CRITT, and in Scotland, Sports lab. A request has also been made during the GA. by the Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA) to establish a testing lab in mainland China. Ongoing projects including: corrosion studies (the UIAA invites members and climbers to submit examples of Climbing Corrosion. Information can be supplied through a dedicated form); Slacklining (impact of UV radiation and weather on textiles) and a WG related to new Standards are continuing their work virtually. Research on probes has continued in collaboration with WG leader from the Italian Alpine Club (CAI). A recent safety advice article was published on canyoning harnesses. The Safety Commission has also

40 2020 UIAA General Assembly UIAA OFFICE & COMMUNICATION Communication As detailed on pages 24-27, significant communication resources have Office & Online Meetings been deployed in the creation and updating of the Covid-19 portal. Other key deliverables have included the publication of the Annual Report and Online meetings have been the reality for Management Committee, Commissions – as well as weekly UIAA Office calls, supported throughout 2020, some incremental improvements have been made to everyone in 2020 including the UIAA Office. accustomed to remote working, the transition on occasions by EB members. the UIAA website. To date this includes the areas dedicated to safety, ice has been relatively seamless. In fact, connection Between March and June, Bern-based staff Attendance at meetings has been much higher between the Office and the various organs of climbing, sustainability, members pages as well as the home page. In worked remotely. Since early July, there is now owing to the fact delegates do not need to the UIAA has been even more regular. the coming months, pages associated with mountaineering, access, rock travel and the timeframe of meetings is more a regular presence in the Office with social climbing and youth will be refreshed. A dedicated UIAA document library The past few months have seen the following efficient in view of people’s commitments. distancing measures in place. will be created to facilitate the search of key files and information. WANT TO RECEIVE THE LATEST NEWS events take place online – EB & Management There are many aspects of the working routine FROM THE UIAA? However, despite the lack of physical contact, Committee meetings, dedicated seminars and which will become the ‘normal’ going forward. The UIAA newsletter is distributed once a month and provides a detailed work and communication has continued to talks by UIAA members, Commission President The UIAA’s environmental footprint and the overview of the UIAA news articles, messages as well as stories from SIGN UP TO evolve in an impressive manner. With the meetings, annual Commission meetings, regularity of contact between delegates has members. To subscribe please click here. make-up of the UIAA – Board members, Covid-19 Crisis Consultation Taskforce sessions certainly improved. THE UIAA UIAA communication continues to shine a spotlight on the work and NEWSLETTER! projects of the UIAA Commissions. A recently-launched series has also

kicked off focusing on the backgrounds of some of the many volunteers SIGN UP who dedicate hundreds of hours to the federation each year.

42 43 2020 UIAA General Assembly

UIAA SPONSORS

PARTNERS BALLY OUTDOOR PETZL FOUNDATION SUNDAY AFTERNOONS The UIAA partners with a theuiaa.org/ RESEARCH theuiaa.org/ the-uiaa-mountain-sustainability/ number of international mountain-protection-award/ theuiaa.org/ice-climbing mountain-qualification-label respect-the-mountains/ Outdoor Research is dedicated to inspiring organisations across its the journey ahead with innovative projects in safety, sport and technical apparel and accessories sustainability. designed for outdoor adventures. Outdoor Research is the Title Sponsor of the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour PARTNERS 2019-2023.

ARISF GAISF ICAR IFMGA Association of IOC Recognised Global Association of International Commission International Federation of International Sport Federations International Sports Federations for Alpine Rescue Mountain Guides Associations

Recognised since 1995 by the International Olympic Committee (IOC)

MRI PEACE AND SPORT SPORT ACCORD UNE 10YFP Mountain Research peace-sport.org sportaccord.sport United Nations United Nations 10-Year YFP Initiative Environment Sustainable Tourism Programme 44 45 UIAA - International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation Monbijoustrasse 61 · Postfach · 3000 Bern 14 [email protected] www.theuiaa.org

Editorial: Peter Bourne, UIAA Communications Manager Design: Jaykay Designs S.C.