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How to use AVISynth

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DarkDream787 Subject: How to use AVISynth Sun Aug 02, 2015 3:29 am

Needed Software

MeGui (The main program you will be using for setting up and preparing your source files for encoding or editing)

AVISynth (The program you use to apply filters to your video which make changes and improve the source video as needed)

Optional Software

None

IMPORTANT NOTE: Click on the word "Spoiler" or just above the line when wanting to open and close larger images that are put into spoiler tags.

Also, this is not my full tutorial and lacks details and things that are in my full tutorial. This is just the information you will need in order to understand how to use AVISynth and make your encodes look better. Basically an edited cutout from my unfinished full tutorial with new information added as well. You pay attention to this and you will understand how to use avisynth and end up with more properly filtered encodes than blindly guessing.

(If you don't care to read how I learned about this program and how to use it, feel free to skip down to the part where I begin to explain how to use it)

Back when I always wanted to encode in 2002 or so, most of the people on forums I asked for help in were asses or didn't bother to try and teach you much. Every time I went for help I ended up with a common answer and it was usually just use AVISynth with VirtualDubMod or GordianKnot with no information on how to use it or what it was. If I asked how to use it, they would just tell you read through all the threads and not even point you to one with information.

I installed AVISynth and could never figure out how to use it. I thought it was a program that you run like any other but I later learned it didn't work like that. I was told it was all scripts and code but no one would tell me how to use it. I had no idea how to use it, and I didn't know anything about search engines like Google back then either or what they even were, until I got into computer tech classes a couple years later. So easier help than a stuck up forum, wasn't really available to me at that point.

I ended up just deciding, screw it and using a basic program for encoding AVI files which was called VirtualDubMod, and while it got the job done with acceptable quality, I never got the quality I had wanted and I never figured out how to use avisynth with it. I eventually got desperate enough, that I decided to try again several years later. A newer program called MeGui had come out and I gave it a try. I had met someone who used to go by the name of GameStar and that's how I learned of MeGui's existance. I never heard from that person again and they never taught me how to use it.

I played around with it and looked up some information about MeGui and what all of the features did. Thanks to MeGui I learned AVISynth is all script based and you write lines of code into a document, then feed it through your encoding program by certain means, such as directly or by frameservering to your program. MeGui will make you a basic script after you get it all set up and begin to use it. I didn't know that when I began playing with it, and when I saw this script that was basic, that only had simple things in it, I realized, "Oh, so that's how it works" and I began to play with it. I tried many many lines and filters just to see how to use them and or what they did. I pretty much learned it the way I did HTML. Someone made me a website when I was 13, and I went through every single line and copied and pasted them one at a time to see what they did until I finally became really good with HTML withinin the year and did the website on my own after that. College made it even easier to understand many years later. Well in this case MeGui made a basic script, and I began to play with it and experiment until I got it down.

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Okay so to make things simple, I figured I would explain how to use AVISynth in detail and give some examples of when you need to use what filters to fix your video up. I didn't have any teachers to teach me, all I had was a forum that when I came across a new issue on the video that I didn't know what it was or how to fix it, I would ask what it was called and ask for suggestions on filters to try out. Then I would try every filter that was for the issue and pick the one I found to do the best job with the least damage or side effects. Well my goal here is try and make this a lot easier for people new to this program and or that have no idea how to use it either. So lets begin!

This is not a one day and your a pro kind of thing to learn, it will take lots of reading and experience to get this down. I will handle the giving you material to read so your not looking endlessly all over the net for the information, and you will handle the trying it out and getting experience with it until you get good at it.

Okay first, I am going to mention the different types of things you will come across when working with DVD's and video sources, tell you their technical term, and the types of filters needed to fix those things you come across.

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The first and most common thing you will come across is called Noise, or Grain. It can make the video look dirty and you will see a lot of moving speckles or artifacts all over the video. You can expect to see this in almost every DVD you work on, it will just be different levels. Some will barely have any and some will have a lot of it. Forumotion Here is an example picture of Swhatr eI a:m talking about. (Notice all the speckles or dot like marks all over the iWmealgceo)me learningfilters Notifications

When you remove the noise or grain it looks more like this.

Here is another example using a different source (Notice the speckles or noise on the darker parts of his jacket) Forumotion Share : Welcome learningfilters Notifications

When you remove/reduce the noise or grain it looks more like this.

Now denoising and removing grain if done too strongly can smooth details out of your video and make the video look washed out like in the above pictures. In the first example, I used the default settings of deen twice so you could see the effect of denoising alot more easier so its not going to look the best it could. I purposely overdid it for that example to help you see what noise/grain looks like. I also brightened it up a small bit and made a few other tweaks. You will notice in the first example, the details in the mountains look smudged or washed out now. Sometimes this is acceptable in my eyes like above when the source was that bad, but its not something you want to do to good clean sources so use weaker denoise settings.

In the second example, I purposely overdid it once again so that it was easier for you to see what grain/noise is. I would not be doing it this strongly in my encodes and the settings I use look much better than these. Once again, its cleaned up and looks better, but because I did it so strongly and without a mask of any kind to protect lines, you can also see the detail loss in the fine details. If you look closely at the fine details on the green wall in the background, you will now notice it looks like smudged watercolor paints instead of a detailed image. This is again, a side effect of denoising too strongly.

While denoising usually makes the picture look better and more cleaned up, its fairly easy to go overboard with it. It can also cause color banding which we will get into later. So be careful to not use a denoiser when it isn't needed or when it causes banding when used. Also be careful not to use one that has too strong of settings unless of course you like the cleaned up look and don't mind the detail loss, but if your encoding for people to download, they will probly not like you destroying or smoothing out the details so strongly, so use weaker settings.

The best denoising filter I have come across is deen. The problem with deen though is its default settings are VERY strong as you saw above and should be reduced in order to preserve video details or do less damage to them unless its so severe like in the first example above before being denoised, that you cant stand it. That's where the parameters in the script comes in and we will get around to those later. (Parameters are specific settings you specify when using a filter. I will describe them later and give a great setting to use for most of your videos)

If you need to denoise your video and this is the one out the 3 I show you that you choose to use I suggest using this denoiser with these settings Deen("c3d",0,3,2). That will denoise your video without doing nearly as much damage to details like the default settings would. It will still do some damage, but its alot less than the above images show and is usually acceptable. If its not strong enough you can raise the settings to 0,5,2 or 0,7,2 etc but the higher you go, the more detail you ruin. 0,3,2 will do a fine job and you wont notice too much detail loss unless your working with HD stuff, then you might notice it a bit more, but there are ways to fix that as will be described. Forumotion I don't ever go above 0,3,2 anSymhaore u: nless its needed. Even then 0,5,2 is the highest I will go if its needed Wbeeclacuosme eI leikaer ntoin pgrfeilstervse deNtaoitlisf.ic Iaf t0io,3n,s2 isn't strong enough for you, look below for the dehalo/dering example and suggested filter. Using that can denoise/smooth the image even more without damaging the video as much as raising the strength of deen would. The masking that it uses can denoise/smooth your picture and do less noticeable damage than using deen alone. Using deen 0,13,13 in hqdering is equivalent to about deen 0,5,5 (Possibly lower) on its own when it comes to detail hurting because of the masking. This is actually a very useful tool for denoising alone and removing halo's, or both.

If it still has more noise than you want after that, try using Deen("c3d",0,5,2) if it's still more than you want, then try adding HQDering(smoother=deen("a3d",1,9,2,2)) along with it afterwards and see if that helps. If it's not enough for your liking still, then raising the strengths of deen's parameters is your last option, but use as a last resort and avoid it if possible is my suggestion. Your better off trying the MCTemporalDenoise filter I mention below, than raising deen higher than 0,7,0.

Most people would rather still see a bit of grain, than have it all cleaned out so clean that a lot of detail was lost in the process. (I made that mistake in my first year or two of encoding and after noticing it one day, I quit making that mistake so be careful) If this is for you personally and no one else, then by all means, clean it however you want.

The best weaker denoiser I have come across, for when Deen is too strong or is destroying more detail than you want is called Convolution3D. Now with the appropriate settings, you wont get artifacts like if you left it at its default settings. When I use it, I use it with these settings. Convolution3D(0, 3, 4, 3, 2, 2.8, 0) This does less damage to details than Deen and still denoises a fair amount at the same time.

The weakest denoiser I know of is called Undot() It will clean the noise a very minimal amount and not ruin your details much, if at all. It supposedly helps compression out and the video appears mostly untouched. Visually, you will probly have to strain your eyes and compare screenshots to notice a difference most of the time, but at times it's quite easy to see the difference and improvement depending on the source and scene of the source. I rarely use this anymore after seeing it change certain pixels I didn't want it to with zoomed in comparisons, but I used to use it quite a bit in my first couple years of encoding when I did not notice that.

The final denoiser I use, is called MCTemporalDenoise. Which is mostly used by me for when Deen or Convolution3D is doing too much damage to details or for heavy grain removal on HD sources if the weaker ones don't do the job well enough. Normally this is very strong and can do some pretty good damage to certain lines in darker areas when you set it too strongly. The good news is you can change its settings to be better than Deen with heavy noise removal, but hurt less fine details than Deen or cConvolution3D in the process. In fact, before even using deen, I would attempt to see if this filter works better and that you don't lose certain lines in darker areas. Sometime this is the much better option if detail retention is what you want.

I use it like this MCTemporalDenoise(sigma=2, sharp=false, radius=1, ecrad=1)

NOTE: The Sigma setting is what determines its overall strength. The higher this is, the stronger it will get. Setting the Sigma at 1 or 2 if possible will preserve details better and that's what I always try first. I personally would not go above Sigma=6. If you need more denoise strength after you get to Sigma=6, I would try adding Convolution3D(0, 3, 4, 3, 2, 2.8, 0) or Deen("c3d",0,3,2) after it. That's up to you which you choose. Using 2 of them is probly overkill though. On a side note, you are probably looking at compression artifacts instead of noise if using 2 of those does not remove what your seeing as noise/grain.

IMPORTANT NOTE: This high quality denoiser can be very slow. When using it in MeGui, expect it's preview to take 8­15 seconds to catch up and show it. If you keep clicking around in the program or telling it to preview again while its catching up, you will crash MeGui for sure. I would wait at least 10 seconds or until you see the updated preview in MeGui before you try checking/seeking to other frames in the preview, before you try another preview, or before you even try to do anything with MeGui for that matter.

This is how it is for me with my top notch computer specs, but I am using 32­bit avisynth because I couldnt get 64­Bit to work for me properly. I'm not sure if this pertains to 64­Bit version since it can Multithread.

I pretty much always use to use Convolution3D(0, 3, 4, 3, 2, 2.8, 0) and Deen("c3d",0,3,2) for everything I need to denoise, unless it causes banding as will be described below or manages to hurt fine details more than I would like. If it causes banding or hurts fine details more than I would like it to, then I don't denoise at all. (Its explained to you in the Banding section below)

If its just hurting details more than I like, but not causing any banding, then I try an alternative denoiser (Which is MCTemporalDenoise) that's better at reducing heavy noise and does even less damage to fine details if you set it correctly. If that doesn't work out, then I do not denoise at all or on rare occasions I will see if Undot() helps.

IMPORTANT HELPFUL TIP: If protecting fine details is your priority and you do not mind the slower encoding times, then use this denoiser. MCTemporalDenoise(sigma=1, sharp=false, radius=1, ecrad=1) # Choose a sigma of 1­3

If you do not mind slightly smudged fine details in high detail areas or want faster encoding times, then use this denoise filter. Convolution3D(0, 3, 4, 3, 2, 2.8, 0)

If you are obsessed with overly clean video, do not want a speck of noise/grain or compression artifacts and do not notice or care about the fine details, then use this denoise filter.

Deen("c3d",0,3,2) # Use a setting of 3­15

Now that you know what noise/grain looks like and what it looks like with it removed or reduced, lets take a look at fine details and textures. Seeing that you have noise/grain to remove is pretty easy to notice or decide, now you need to decide between how much fine detail and textures you are willing to lose or smear out and how much noise/grain you want to remove. You will need to find the medium between the two in which you like the most.

Here are some some example screenshots. This is a very clean source, so were not looking for noise to remove, we are looking at the fine details/textures in it for learning purposes. Look very closely at the gold bricks behind the characters towards the left and even closer at the blue bricks in the back towards the right. Those have fine details/textures on them.

Save these screenshots and flip back and forth through them 2 at a time quickly for comparing is my recommendation so that you can see the differences much easier

No denoise fitler used Forumotion Share : Welcome learningfilters Notifications

You will notice all of the original fine details/textures in tact in this image

MCTemporalDenoise Sigma=2

You will notice almost all of the original fine details/textures still in tact in this image. If it were sigma=1 you probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference between no denoise filter and this without hawk eyes or zooming in, but would notice noise/grain being cleaned up a bit. I left dithering on, so you might notice a bit of grain/noise added in if you zoom in alot, but you can turn it off if you want. I think it looks better and preserves details well with it on, unless the source is already very clean like this one.

Convolution3D Forumotion Share : Welcome learningfilters Notifications

This is where you begin to notice a bit more detail loss and smearing. While it is not alot and you may not notice it without the original source to compare, it is doing a tad bit of damage. If you look close enough, you will notice some of the details on the blue bricks have smeared off or became less visible. The gold ones, just look a little more soft/blurry. This removes a fair amount of noise/grain and doesn't do too much damage if the settings are set well.

Deen with weaker settings of 0,3,2

As I mentioned above, deen is quite a heavy noise remover and will do more noticeable damage to fine details/textures. If you look, you will notice even more fine details and lines on the blue bricks are smeared or harder to see. It becomes quite apparent with this filter when you have the source material to compare with it. This is recommended for strong noise removal only, you might be better off putting MCTemporalDenoise to a sigma of 6 than using this one. It removes things just as well usually and retains more details than deen.

Deen at it's default settings Forumotion Share : Welcome learningfilters Notifications

Now I do not recommend using this at all, because it is so damaging to details and textures. This example is here merely, so if you are having a hard time noticing the differences above, this will make it very easy to see what to look for because of how much damage it does. You will notice the bricks now look like 2D watercolor paint smudges instead of a nice detailed/textured 3D look. You will notice alot of stuff seems to not be there anymore as well. If you do not mind the detail loss and want that clean image, then by all means go ahead and use this if you want.

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Second lets take a look at whats referred to as Banding or Color Banding. This is what happens when you try to denoise a source that doesn't need it or that needs a very minimal amount of it. It makes your picture looks like it has a bunch of lines or bars on it in certain scenes. It's usually darker scenes that this shows up on or is easier to see on, so thats the best place to go looking for it to see if you have any or if you created any.

Here is an example picture of what I am talking about when I refer to Banding. (Its most visible on the guys face to the left)

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When you remove the Banding by Dithering or not denoising too strongly, it looks more like this. (As you can see this looks MUCH better than those lines, even if the cost is putting grain over it)

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If you remove noise, you will get better looking and cleaner looking picture with minor detail loss if any depending on how strong you denoised the video, but this can cause banding in some sources. Not all sources get banding from being denoised, but it can happen if you remove too much noise from a source. So if you using the suggested weaker denoiser above which was Deen("c3d",0,3,2) and it manages to cause banding, you will have to use an even weaker denoiser or not denoise at all. The suggested weaker denoiser to use is this "Convolution3D(0, 3, 4, 3, 2, 2.8, 0)". It does pretty much the same thing as deen but it removes grain in a lesser or different manner and banding is either minimal to where its acceptable or it doesn't happen anymore. Banding that deen created, if it even created any since it doesn't always happen, is hardly noticeable when using Convolution3D and Convolution3D still removes some grain, so it looks cleaner from the denoising and has less or no banding. (Normally at default settings, Convolution3D would add artifacts or blue marks over anime but I modified it so there's no blue added to the picture and artifacts are much lesser to none. As long as you don't raise the 5th number in the parameters above the number 2, it will stay that way.)

The only way to get rid of Banding is to add grain/noise with a method called Dithering, or of course, don't cause banding in the first place from denoising a source that didn't need it, or denoising too strongly. Dithering will add grain/noise to the picture with the method that you specify in the filters settings and blend it over those bars so that they seem to disappear or blend in to where they are hardly noticeable anymore. Just look up a dithering filter called gradfun2db or one of your choice and read about how to use those.

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Next lets take a look at whats referred to as Dot Crawl. Dot Crawl artifacts are checkerboard like artifacts that show up over your video and they move up or down in specific places of the video, its really hard to miss it and can get very annoying. This is usually from making an analog source into a digital one or something like that. This is quite common on older DVD's but I dont believe you will see this on any Blu­Ray at all.

Heres is an example close up picture of what I am talking about. Forumotion Share : Welcome learningfilters Notifications

Fixing this might soften your image a bit and on some occasions hurt fine details, but you can do something about it later. The filter I recommend and use to get rid of Dot Crawl is checkmate(thr=9, max=9, tthr2=0) This filter is quite effective at removing Dot Crawl and as long as you don't go overboard with the settings, you shouldn't see any ghosting or extra artifacts show up. If you do go overboard with the settings or remove the tthr2=0 setting, it's possible to introduce artifacts and ghosting into your video.

If you don't like the softening or it happens to hurt details, try changing the thr and max settings. If it is still doing more than you want, then either don't use it and deal with the dot crawl or you can try an alternative method to removing it.

I read that downsizing the entire video or chroma to 1/2 of its size, and then scaling it right back up to its original size right afterwards is another good way to get rid of this. I personally would only do this as a last resort if the dot crawl was too much to bear and checkmate could not clean it without more softening/detail damage than I want. I personally did not like the results it gave when I tried it because it ended up blurry looking.

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Next we will take a look at whats referred to as Aliasing. Aliasing is when lines or edges start to look like staircases or have zigzags/jagged edges. You will use a filter to antialias those jagged staircase like lines and smooth them out into a nice straight line.

Here is an example picture of some aliased lines or edges. (Notice the lines are jagged or zigzaggy) Forumotion When you remove the aliasingS whiathre a n: antialiasing filter it looks more like this. Welcome learningfilters Notifications

In this example, I enhanced the aliasing so that you could see it better with the help of a sharpener. It's kind of rare to see it this strong or bad on a DVD source, but it is possible to get it that bad. This was to help you identify it easier and see it easier.

This is extremely simple to remove without doing much if any damage to your source video depending on the strength you set it at. This usually softens up your overall picture, but a simple sharpener afterwards can fix it no problem and then you get your fixed lines without any softening or blur. I suggest either Santiag, Maa, or Maa2 antialiasing filters for antialiasing.

Santiag is a real strong antialiaser with only one side effect I dislike. The entire bottom row of pixels gets shifted over one pixel and sometimes I noticed bits and pieces of certain lines slightly out of place on anime. You probly wont notice this without being told to know to look for it. It took me a long time before I noticed it and switched to Maa. I did just recently notice however that if you use it before the resizer in your script, then you do not have that side effect. It doesn't antialias lines as well though when done that way.

Santiag works best with CGI animation when Maa wont get the job done I would say but is also good for anime and cartoon use as well.

Maa is good for anime or cartoons and very simple to use. This isn't as strong as Santiag but it's 99% of the time all you need to antialias your lines just fine. Maa2 is the same as Maa but you can control its supersampling amount causing less blur to your video and less line changing when weaker antialiasing is needed. (I personally prefer and use this one over Maa because of more control and better results)

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Next on the list is called Halo's or Ringing. This is when you notice a bright looking shine or lines show up along the outside or inside of black lines and edges. Its usually white looking and tends to show up more on oversharpened sources. If you sharpen too strongly, then you will get this in your video. Do not purposely oversharpen your video and then think this will fix it, because while it will remove it some, your doing more harm than good that way. Your better off not oversharpening in the first place.

Here is an example picture of Halo's/Ringing (Notice the white lines outside of the black lines like on the mouth for example) Forumotion Share : Welcome learningfilters Notifications

When you remove or reduce them with a dehalo/deringing filter, it looks more like this.

In this example I purposely oversharpened the source by a lot so that you could see the halo's/ringing more visibly. Then I reduced the sharpening and applied a dehalo filter to it in the second image. As you can see, that looks alot better when those are not in the video. Some DVD's or video sources are just oversharpened and you will come across this as a pretty common thing to look out for. It probly wont be as bad as I made it in the above image for you to be able to see it, but I have seen it pretty bad before.

Just look up and try a few dehalo/deringing filters until you get the results you want.

I highly recommend and use HQDering(smoother=deen("a3d",1,9,2,2)) for halo removal. It does a great job at removing Halo's with very little to no damage or side effects. Just change the number 9 according to your needs. The higher it is, the stronger the halo removal, the lower it is, the less damage to fine details it will do. 5, 7, or 9 is usually about right or all that's needed. Use the lowest number you can to get the results you want. 7 or 9 is about the average and does just fine. You usually wont need to go higher than 9. I personally would not go above 15 unless you don't care about fine details being denoised out. (Refer to denoise section up at the top to get filled in on more details about this)

For much heavier halo removal if hqdering cannot remove them well enough even with a higher setting, then I recommend Dehalo_Alpha. This is more blurring to the output and I never like to use it unless halo's really strong in the source, but it gets the job done on really heavy ones and if set up right it wont be nearly as bad as the default settings. I cannot recommend specific settings for you on this filter because each source will need different ones. The only thing I can say is, keep the rx and ry settings as low as possible to get the job done so you don't overdo it. the settings are 1 = Do nothing, 2 = Average blur/removal, 3 = Very strong blur/removal. rx and ry at 1.5 is usually enough. rx removes horizontal (Left/Right of lines) halos and ry removes vertical (Top/Bottom of lines) halos. Its possible you might only need to use one and set the other to 1 to not use it at all. Also the lower the lowsens setting and the higher the highsens setting, the less fine details it will harm, raise them to be stronger halo removal. Use whats needed to get the job done and don't overdo it or expect smudged or destroyed fine details. (This one is much more complicated than hqdering and will take some practice or knowledge to get the best results from it without overdoing it)

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Here is the original source image, along with an example picture of acceptable/good sharpening settings and look (middle) and an example of bad sharpening settings and look. One that's been oversharpened (bottom)

Original source image

Sharpened image

Slightly Oversharpened image Forumotion Share : Welcome learningfilters Notifications

Notice in the sharpened image its sharper but not so sharp that its got bad halo's or looks like it was made on concrete. It's still a bit smooth and looks nice. Yes it has a little visible halo's/ringing, but that's because the source has a very little bit of it. We could of course reduce or remove this completely if needed later, but its not really that bad or barely noticeable.

Now in the oversharpened image if you look at it closely, the image looks like its made of stone, or its not smooth at all. This is easiest to see on the characters eyes. The halo's/ringing are also a lot more apparent in this image when compared to the original and is now more apparent around the outlines on the fingers. If you need an easier example to understand oversharpness, go back up to the Halo/Ringing part and look at that top image that I purposely oversharpened. You will see what I mean by it looks like its on stone instead of a smooth image.

You will want to sharpen the source, but you don't want it a lot sharper than the source, just enough to notice a difference really or you risk going overboard. of course a more blurry source will need sharpened a bit more, but you still don't want to use too high of strength in the sharpener.

Here is a perfect example of when you have gone way too far with your sharpening and oversharpened the image ALOT.

Notice there's VERY visible halos/ringing and as I mentioned above, the image looks like its made of stone, or its not smooth at all. This looks utterly horrible from being oversharpened and should be softer than this.

It looks better when sharpened less or not sharpened at all, like this example. Forumotion Share : Welcome learningfilters Notifications

There are several different sharpeners available for use, just try some of them out until you get the one you like. I highly recommend and I myself use, LimitedSharpenFaster.

The best sharpener I have come across out of all the ones I have tried is LimitedSharpenFaster(ss_x=1.0, ss_y=1.0, strength=8, overshoot=0, undershoot=0, soft=0, edgemode=0) You just adjust the strength according to your needs. You shouldn't ever need to go above 100, even then that's a bit high. I would use as little as possible to get the sharpness you want because its quite easy to oversharpen your video and that can cause Halos/Ringing to appear on your lines and edges. You shouldn't need to go above 18 strength usually. Most DVD's are fine with 6­9 strength.

If you use a high strength number, it will make all your lines aliased and they will look awful, I guarantee it. Using an antialiasing filter afterwards wont always fix it, but it seems to fix it with most of what I ended up trying it on. Expect your picture to be a little softer/blurrier though if you do that. You will have to raise sharpening strength a little more to compensate for putting the antialiaser after the sharpener because antialiasers will soften the video a bit. Don't raise it alot more though, just enough to even it back out as it was. I recommend you keep the strength anywhere from 0­40 I wouldn't go above 40, unless you don't mind your lines becoming jagged and possibly looking oversharpened or you decided to try putting the antialiaser after the sharpener to get rid of the jagged lines from the sharpening.

You can also use it like this, and you will never have to worry about it aliasing lines, no matter what strength you use. LimitedSharpenFaster(ss_x=2.0, ss_y=2.0, strength=120, overshoot=0, undershoot=0, soft=0, edgemode=0)

This way requires different strength levels though because its using supersampling to keep the lines from aliasing, which is softer. So strength levels will usually be between 80­140 if your going to use it like this. I would not go above 140 unless you want to oversharpen your video because you like it like that.

Using it with supersampling WILL cause slight halo's/ringing in the output though no matter what strength you pick. I never noticed it until I started encoding Blu­Rays and I don't use it like this anymore once I noticed that. It's just another option for you to choose from. It's fine with DVD's or 480p sources most of the time, but HD it becomes more obvious.

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The next thing I will be talking about is called Color Bleeding. This is when you see the colors bleeding over top of the solid black lines and they are going out of where they are supposed to be. For example you will see a blue sky's colors bleeding over into someones hair and there will be a slight blue color inside of their hair or vice versa. How far over the colors are will vary from source to source.

Here are a couple example pictures of what I am talking about. Forumotion Share : Welcome learningfilters Notifications

Notice in the first picture above, the colors are bleeding to the left. If you look at the arms of those 2 guys red jackets, you will see that the blue colors on the right are bleeding over into the jackets and on the left side, the red is bleeding over into the background. That is an example of color bleeding.

You will notice in the second picture its easy to see the color bleed. The white on the one guys stomache area is bleeding over into the other guys arm, and if you look closely you can see the green from the trees also bleeding over into the other guys arm.

This is easy to correct with a chroma shifting filter. What you do to fix this is you shift the colors back into place. The filter I recommend and use is ChromaShiftSP(X=0.00, Y=0.00) Here is how it works. X = Left/Right +/­ Y = Up/Down +/­ So to move the colors to the left 2 pixels you would use it like this ChromaShiftSP(X=2.00, Y=0.00) to shift them to the right 2 pixels you would use it like this ChromaShiftSP(X=­2.00, Y=0.00). ChromaShiftSP is capable of moving pixels like 2.30 or something incase you need an inbetween number of movement, most others want a solid number with no decimal.

The best chromashifting filter I know of is ChromaShiftSP. It is so accurate that you can move it partial pixels instead of entire pixels only, like the original ChromaShift plugin.

Here is another example picture and how ChromaShiftSP fixes it. You will notice in this first picture that the colors are bleeding much more than in the first example and their bleeding to the right. Forumotion Share : Welcome learningfilters Notifications

When you use ChromaShiftSP(X=3.00, Y=0.00) to shift it to the left by 3 pixels, then it looks more like this.

As you can see everything looks a lot more in place now.

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The next thing we will talk about is called Soft/Blurry chroma or chroma bleeding. This is when you notice lines look really fuzzy or thick and fuzzy. If you look close enough you will see solid black lines in the middle and then the black color of the lines will be bleeding out from both sides of the lines making it appear fuzzy looking. Kind of like a thick blurry line with a sold thinner one over top of it. If it is only bleeding or blurry on one side of the line then its probly not soft chroma causing it and you should refer to "Line Thinner" or "Color Bleed" section of the tutorial to see if that is it.

Here is an example picture of what I am talking about. (This is alot easier to notice if you save both pictures, then flip back and forth through them quickly) Forumotion Share : Welcome learningfilters Notifications

When you remove or reduce them with a chroma sharpener, it looks more like this.

Notice in the first image if you look closely at the black lines around the red triangle on his helmet, you will see that the black is bleeding both into the red and the blue colors and the colors are also slightly bleeding out of place.

When you apply a chroma sharpening filter to it like in the second image, it will sharpen up the chroma blurring and now it looks like a normal line instead of a blurry bleeding line and the colors are also bleeding less.

Here is an another example picture of what I am talking about. (This is alot easier to notice than the first example, but also easier to see if you save both images and flip back and forth through them quickly) Forumotion Share : Welcome learningfilters Notifications

When you remove or reduce them with a chroma sharpener, it looks more like this.

Notice in the first picture if you look at all the black lines on the orange pants, you will see the black clearly bleeding over the lines into the orange color.

When you apply a chroma sharpening filter to it like in the second image, it will sharpen the chroma blurring and now it looks like more of a normal line instead of a blurry bleeding line and the color is bleeding over less.

To fix soft/blurry chroma you want to sharpen the chroma so that the blurry bleeding parts of the lines, stop bleeding and it turns back into a solid line. The filter I use and recommend for this is called mergechroma The higher the depth, then the stronger the sharpening of the chroma. Try to use only the depth that's needed so you don't overdo it. Generally a setting of 4­8 is plenty. harm than good at that level. If you still see the lines blurry after using this then try a line thinner (which will be explained later) instead, or along with it.

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The next thing we will talk about is Line Thinning. If you notice lines are way too thick or very thick and blurry then that's a good time to try a line thinner. If they are supposed to be thick and are not blurry then you don't need it and I wouldn't use it just to make lines thinner. If they are blurry or thicker than they should be, then this is a good thing to try. You usually will end up using this in 1080p Blu­Rays the most where lines are fine in 720p but 1080p their real thick and blurry.

Here is an example picture of something that's a good idea to try line thinning on.

(I still have to take a screenshot of this. For now use your imagination and imagine a DVD upscale. The lines get very thick and blurry. Thats about the best I can describe it until I get a screenshot) Forumotion The filter I recommend and usSe htoa rteh in: lines is aWarpSharp(depth=3.5, blurlevel=1) The higher the depth, tWheenlc tohme eth lienanrenri nthgefi ltlienress wiNll obeti.f iAca staiofen samount of line thinning is from 2.0 up to 9.0, you don't really want to go too much higher than that or you can do more harm than good. I would never go above 20 and you should always try to keep this as low of depth as possible to get the results you want.

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The next thing we will talk about is Rainbows. Again this is pretty self explanatory as to what it is. You will from time to time when working on a DVD come across a source that has rainbows showing up along lines or over your picture in some or alot of scenes.

Here is an example picture of what I am talking about. (You will notice it on his face and ears the most, along the black lines and on the yellow/gold part of his shoes)

Here is another example with more visible rainbows in it. (You will notice it all over their faces the easiest, they are in other places as well)

When you properly use a derainbow filter it will remove them and look more like this. Forumotion Share : Welcome learningfilters Notifications

Removing rainbows 100% is not always possible but most of the time it is. Some more picky sources that require very strong derainbowing or have rainbows that are burnt in, you cant really remove them all the way without doing damage to the source, only reduce them as much as possible, but its generally easy to remove without damage for most sources. Some sources can be picky and they wont come out all the way, just get reduced some. Remember, rainbow removing filters are generally best used before deinterlacing your video. You might not notice a lot of rainbows on normal playback, but if you look at it frame by frame one at a time, you cant miss it.

The best two rainbow removal filters I know of are LutDeRainbow and Bifrost. LutDeRainbow tends to work great for heavy rainbow removal but has alot more visible artifacts, and Bifrost tends to work great for weak or heavy rainbow removal and has little to no artifacts.

Generally I use Bifrost as my first choice because it removes rainbows and has alot less visible damage or artifacts in my opinion and most of the time none at all, or barely visible to where most would never notice until shown. (There are some exceptions where I find LUTDeRainbow better for certain sources)

LUTDeRainbow is quite strong and I usually only use that when Bifrost is not enough because of the artifacts and color splotches it creates. It creates these artifacts and splotches for sure while bifrost only does if set too strongly. Before choosing to go with LUTDeRainbow, because Bifrost doesn't seem to be getting the rainbows well enough, try increasing Bifrosts scenelumathresh parameter. It's default is supposedly at around 10. You can go up to 20 before it starts doing much more damage than you want. I would not go over 20, but that's up to you. Just be aware going over 20 can cause color splotches that look like this. (This is a setting of 25 on a more picky than average source that's harder to clean rainbows from)

If LUTDeRainbow isn't getting the rainbows, try raising it's cthresh parameter. I would not go above 20 for this one either. If neither LUTDeRainbow or Bifrost will remove them or reduce them, I wouldn't bother trying because you will need to hurt the video to get 100% of it if that is even possible with the filter. You might get rid of the rainbows by setting them so high it's ridiculous but you will introduce color splotches and artifacts all over and just keeping the rainbows will look better in the end.

Here is an example where I turned the setting up extremely high to where it finally got rid of the rainbows on this more picky source. (Remember, there will some occasions where even if you set it at 150 or more, it will not be able to remove the rainbows all the way. This one was harder but it could be done) Forumotion It got rid of the rainbows, but Sath a rceos :t that's not worth it in the end in my opinion. Welcome learningfilters Notifications

Here is another example of the artifacts a rainbow removing filter can cause.

NOTE: Those artifacts and color splotches are not on every frame, just the occasional frame. They tend to show up most when there is movement or something is moving fast. There are sometimes you wont even notice it when the animation is moving and will only see it when paused at just the correct spot. So if you want to raise Bifrost or LUTDeRainbow a little over 20, or go overboard and you don't notice it on playback, then feel free to do it if you want. It is yours afterall, but I would not do it and if I did for some reason, I doubt I would accept any higher than 25 max.

NOTE: Sometimes, depending on the source material, even if you weaken the derainbow filter down to almost nothing, you will still get artifacts like pictured above just for using a derainbow filter. This is when you will have to choose between two choices. Would you rather have rainbows? or would you rather remove/reduce the rainbows and have the artifacts that might not even be noticeable on playback? The choice is yours when it comes to that.

NOTE: If you do not have the correct version of bifrost, there will be some instances where you notice that it causes blinds/interlace lines to appear over certain objects in random frames of your output. If it is causing this to happen, make sure your using a different version of bifrost or use the LUTDeRainbow filter instead. I believe version 1.1 is the one I have and use to avoid it.

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Next we will talk about Dull or Washed Out colors. If your colors look like they are very dull or you need more saturation then here is a good way to fix that.

The filter I recommend and use is smoothtweak(saturation=1.03, dither=­1, interp=0, limiter=true) just raise the saturation level as needed. Usually 1.01 to 1.08 is more than enough, there will be some times Forumotion that a bit more is needed. I woSuhldanr'et g:o above 1.20, any more than that and you are probly overdoing it, butW itesl cuopm teo yleoaur.n Iifn fgofril tseorms e reNaostoifnic yaotiuo nasre working in an RGB color spectrum and smoothtweak wont work (This is usually not the case since all DVD's are YUV color spectrum, but it can be possible) then you will have to use the generic tweak to increase your saturation. Tweak(sat=1.03) again 1.01 to 1.08 is generally enough to improve your colors without overdoing it.

You can also use the regular tweak(sat=1.03) for everything if you want, but it's been known to cause some colors to get thrown off and change them slightly. I've seen it put green tints/colors over blacks once before, and I learned about smoothtweak hoping to fix that and compared the 2. It worked better with colors in my opinion on every test and time I tried it and that is why I recommend smoothtweak for saturation adjustments.

If the colors are too saturated for your taste, then just go below 1.00 in the tweak or smoothtweak settings. 1.00 is do nothing, while above and below it is more or less saturation. This will reduce the saturation level.

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Next on the list is Brightness/Contrast. If your video is too dark or too bright and you want to brighten or darken it, this is how you can adjust it.

The filter I use and recommend is tweak(bright=0.00, cont=1.00) Just raise the brightness and contrast accordingly. Generally I just raise the contrast setting to 1.03 and that's good enough for me when brightening a video, and I generally lower the brightness a max of ­1.00 when trying to get rid of white on the black colors and overall picture when its too bright. I wouldn't raise contrast much more than that or lower the brightness a lot more than that. I don't like to alter it too much and make blacks starts to turn light or get covered in white or darken the picture too much. It is possible to overdo it and brighten too much or darken too much. The settings for this are up to you, just adjust them according to your needs or liking.

NOTE: Using it like this will not do anything tweak(bright=­0.30) When adjusting brightness up or down, you must adjust at least 0.51 up, or ­0.51 down, or it will have no effect at all. Contrast can be raised or lowered anything you want when adjusting.

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Another thing to look out for is Ghosting/Blending. Ghosting/Blending is when you can see the previous or next frame image over top of the current frame or extra frames were added in that is a blend of 2 frames together to make more fps.

Here are a couple example pictures of what I am talking about. Forumotion Share : Welcome learningfilters Notifications

This can be caused by improper deinterlacing. I made sure to explain how to properly deinterlace at the bottom of this tutorial. I would pay attention to that if you want good results.

There are also some avisynth plugins/filters out there that can cause this as well.

It can also be noticed when using a PAL source that put duplicate frames into the video to make it play at 25fps like PAL sources do. PAL tends to sometimes use NTSC sources and make them into PAL ones. PAL plays back at 25fps and NTSC plays back at 23.976fps so they sometimes add in duplicate frames or blend 2 frames together to make an extra frame to fill the gap and then they speed up the audio a tad so it syncs with the faster video, which raises the audio pitch a tad.

It can also be seen in some 29fps sources if extra frames were added in.

So for fixing or reducing this problem, just follow these instructions.

First off, check to make your deinterlacer is not the cause of this. If you are using TIVTC and the hybrid is not set to 0, then you need to change that to 0 because 3 will cause this to happen for sure and 1 can also cause it but not nearly as much.

If it is a PAL source or 29.976fps webrip then you will need a different approach. When working with a PAL source that has ghosting/blending because it added in extra frames, one of the best ways to fix this is to remove or replace the duplicate frames with a plugin/filter called srestore. You specify the playback framerate you want to end up with and how it will calculate which duplicate frames to remove. Its used like this srestore() and has several parameters you can add in the () area. You will need to make sure your using it correctly or it will either have no noticeable effect, or can make your video jerky from removing/duplicating incorrect frames. There are times that it can only do so much though and will not be 100% accurate all the time, but it will do its job.

There will be some cases where you will have to choose which you want more. The jerkiness or the ghosting/blending. There will be some sources you cannot fully remove it from unless you want to manually go in frame by frame with some software I don't know about and do this yourself. But most of the time this one gets the job done and well if you set its parameters correctly.

More information on how to use this can be found here. (I would recommend reading this if you are planning on using this filter)

http://avisynth.nl/index.php/Srestore

NOTE: SRestore() does not change the overall playback framerate of your output video, the framerate will remain the same. It will look for frames with ghosting/blending in them and replace that frame with a duplicate of either the previous or next frame that doesnt have the ghosting/blending in it. This is for ghosting/blending purposes mostly.

It can change the outputs framerate without changing the length by adding (frate=desired framerate here) in the parameters. Using SRestore(frate=23.976) SRestore will output 23.976 fps and the overall running time will not be changed. Forumotion Share : Welcome learningfilters Notifications If your trying to make a 25fps or other fps into a 23.976fps or other fps, where you want the video to be longer or shorter in length at the end, then you will need to use a frame changing plugin/filter to do so. (Refer to the changing framerates section below for more information)

NOTE: If the framerate is already 23.976 you shouldn't be needing to use srestore. srestore is for removing blended frames in a 25fps PAL or any other source that had added frames put in during the conversion from NTSC material. Using srestore on a 23.976fps and telling it to be 23.976fps in srestore is going to do nothing at all to the video and just be a waste. It's completely pointless in that situation.

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Okay, next thing is going to be changing framerates. If for some reason you want to change the framerates or convert PAL into NTSC or vice versa, this is how you will go about doing it.

There are a few ways you can do this. Here are a couple most common ways.

1. Change the framerate without changing the frame count. This will keep the same exact amount of frames, but change the playback speed of it. This will shorten or lengthen your video, so you will have to make your audio match up with it as well, by either slowing it or speeding it up in an audio editor, then correcting the raise or lowering of the pitch from being sped up or slown down, unless the very very small change in voice pitch does not bother you.

The best filter for doing this to your video is assumefps(24000, 1001) # Which is 23.976fps

The parameters to use in order to get the correct fps you want can be found here.

http://avisynth.nl/index.php/FPS

2. Change the framerate by adding in or deleting duplicate frames. This will remove frames that are duplicates or add in duplicates in order to get the framerate you desire in the end and it will not change the overall length of your video, so there is no increase or decrease in length to worry about. It should sync with your audio just fine.

The best filter for doing this is ChangeFPS(24000, 1001) # Which is 23.976fps

The parameters to use in order to get the correct fps you want can be found here.

http://avisynth.nl/index.php/FPS

NOTE: Removing frames or adding duplicate frames to lower or raise the playback framerate with ChangeFPS() can sometimes cause video to become a bit jerky aka jittery. You will notice when the entire background moves or picture is sliding across the screen that instead of a smooth slide, it can be a bit jumpy/jittery. This does not always happen and depends on the source, but if it is happening and you don't like it, try the srestore() filter instead, with the framerate you want put inside its parameters. This will have the same effect but not make things jittery. For example: srestore(frate=23.976) srestore(frate=25) srestore(frate=29.97) and so on.

NOTE: When it comes to AssumeFPS(), and ChangeFPS(), I do believe you can just put in the fps you want like this assumefps(23.976) and that you do not have to put it in the way it has been shown such as assumefps(24000, 1001)

Now if you are wanting to convert PAL into NTSC playback framerate, this combination of deinterlacing, extra blended frame removal, and framerate changing should get you the best results.

QTGMC(preset="slow", matchpreset="slow", matchpreset2="slow", sourcematch=3) srestore(frate=23.976)

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Next thing on the list is cutting/splitting/merging video and audio. There are several ways this can be done and believe it or not it can be done with AVISynth alone, but the method I am going to share goes along best with my tutorial and is much easier.

You can read all about how to do this here.

http://blackstaranime.forum.com.bz/t406­cutting­splitting­merging­video­and­audio

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I will add more examples and information up as I get the time to. If you need more detailed information after all of this, check my full tutorial out when I put it up or follow links at the bottom of each single tutorial page. The information above is just knowledge for you so you know what your dealing with and what kind of plugin/filter is needed to fix it.

I will for sure be adding information about changing frame rates and colorspaces when I get the time.

In the meantime, go to the post just below this and continue your tutorial to learn how to use these scripts once you have written them.

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Like the quality of my anime encodes and want more of my work? You can find all of my work here! Forumotion List of my encodings andS hrealreea :s e plans (Archive) Welcome learningfilters Notifications http://blackstaranime.forum.com.bz/t158­darkdream­high­quality­anime­archive­future­release­plans

DarkDream787 Subject: Re: How to use AVISynth Sat Jan 14, 2017 4:42 am Now were going to move on to how to use AVISynth in MeGui.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure you have properly file indexed your DVD or Blu­Ray that you ripped. If you have not done this, then you need to go back and do it. (( If you already did this earlier and did it properly, and you have your .D2V file and or .DGA file, then don't worry about it, your good to go and can read on ))

Instructions for it can be found here.

DVD

http://blackstaranime.forum.com.bz/t302­how­to­rip­a­dvd­to­your­hard­drive­for­encoding­or­backup­purposes

Blu­Ray

http://blackstaranime.forum.com.bz/t303­how­to­rip­a­blu­ray­to­your­hard­drive­for­encoding­or­backup­purposes

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Now that you have seen many of the different types of things you can expect to come across and have a suggested filter for fixing each one of them, its time to move on to actually making your script.

MeGui can easily make a basic script for you so at the top choose Tools and then Choose "AVS Script Creator" Then in the I/O tab where video input section is, click the browse button on the right. It will be a button with some dots on it. Then browse for and choose the file that the file indexer made for you earlier. If you file indexed a DVD VOB file its usually a .D2V file you will be looking for. If you file indexed a Blu­Ray .M2TS file then you will be looking for a .DGA file. If you file indexed a Blu­Ray .MKV track from the HD Streams Extractor as mentioned above, then you will be looking for a .ffindex file.

Once you open the appropriate file, a preview window showing you your video should open up. Minimize it and get back to the AVS Script Creator window.

The first thing to do in the script creator is to set the deinterlacing method were going to use.

NOTE: Blu­Ray's seem to always be progressive and are not interlaced like DVD's. You should be able to skip to the next part about resizing and cropping, just below this if you are working on a Blu­Ray.

1. Go to the Filters tab in the script creator window and if its anime check in the "Source Is Anime" box. This is for animated sources. If its not anime or not animation and is live footage then just leave it blank. Once that's all done hit the Analyze button to analyze the source video. Then just wait until it is finished analyzing and it will pick a deinterlace method for you automatically. Once that's done look at the Script tab and see what it decided was best for you. Now MeGui isnt always 100% accurate but its very accurate overall and you should trust it. There's only 2 situations you should not trust its choice. When it picks Hybrid=1, Hybrid=3 or when it suggests Yadif deinterlacing. If it says Hybrid=3 then your output video is going to have ghosting/blending in it guaranteed. You should always change Hybrid=1 and Hybrid=3 into Hybrid=0 unless you know for sure it is a hybrid then use hybrid=1 but 99% of the time its not a hybrid and Hybrid=0 should always be your choice. Now if it picked Yadif deinterlacing then your output video is going to have interlace lines in fast moving scenes or certain parts of the video usually. If it picked Yadif interlacing, then delete the entire Yadif line and change it to QTGMC(preset="slow", matchpreset="slow", matchpreset2="slow", sourcematch=3). That will deinterlace it and you wont see what looks like blinds over your video in certain faster moving scenes. You can change the preset to a faster speed by using QTGMC(preset="fast", matchpreset="fast", matchpreset2="fast", sourcematch=3) and the encoding speed will increase, but the faster you set it, the lower the overall quality will be. This will make lines look more aliased and or possibly have more visible blinds, the faster you set it at. I'm very patient so I always use the slow setting. I've tested all the speeds available for this filter then compared closely and yes you can see the difference when you compare side by side and slowly check them frame by frame. Slow gives best quality output. (Actually Slowest does, but its so ridiculously slow to the point its stupid to bother with it, so I wont use it)

NOTE: If you are doing a series and all of the episodes have been Hybrid=0 and a random one says Yadif instead of the one you have been getting, go with the Hybrid choice and change it to the same as one of your other episodes. It must not have been able to check that episode correctly if that's the case.

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Now that your done choosing your deinterlacing method, its time to crop and resize your video.

1. Go to the I/O tab and check in the crop button. Then crop off what is needed to get rid of black bars. Now cropping too much off the sides and not correcting the aspect if needed by cropping some off top and bottom as well will make your output aspect ratio off so follow this rule when cropping and your aspect will never be very noticeably off. Take a maximum of 16 off of the sides, if you have to take more than a total of 16 from the sides then you will need to also take some off of the top and bottom as well. So if you had to crop 12 off the left and 8 off the right, then you will need to take a total of 4 from the top or bottom as long as they both add up to 4. So 2 off the top and 2 off the bottom, or 4 off the top, etc. As long as you don't allow more than 16 from the sides there's no need to crop from the top and bottom unless there's black bars on them too or you want to. This rule wont let you down aspect ratio wise, its your call but if you go more than 16 from the sides and don't take any from the top or bottom to make up for the stretching your video to the sides that you will do after resize, then everything will look off and it will start to become very noticeable. Peoples faces will look fat, circles will start to look like ovals and it doesn't look too good.

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Once you have your cropping done and set up now is the time to resize your video.

1. Check in the resize box and then choose your resolution you want to use. If it wont let you select the resolution you want that's okay, you can just change it in the script next. You have a choice to make your video MOD2 MOD4 MOD8 and MOD16. The MOD number is a multiple so if you multiply any number by 8 and use that as your resolution, you just chose MOD8, if you multiply any number by 16, you just chose MOD16. So if 2, 4, 8 or 16 goes evenly into your resolution choice, the largest one that goes evenly into your resolution is your MOD choice. For example 640x480 is MOD16 because 640 divided by 16 is 40 and 480 divided by 16 is 30. Those both take a multiple of 16 perfectly. Now if you chose 636x480 16 wont go into 636 evenly, the largest number that goes into that evenly is 4 so that's a MOD4 resolution. Using a MOD4 width and a MOD16 height may cause playback issues in some devices such as the subtitle playback issue I mention right after this line. Making your resolution a multiple of 16 or 8 on both height and width will be the most compatible with all playback devices. I would always make your output MOD16 or MOD8 unless you don't want to or it seems the aspect looks a tad off to you. Checking in the suggest resolution MOD16 box will help you out there and it will pick MOD16 only resolutions for you as you make adjustments to width and height. This is not a must and as long as your resolution is an even number you should be fine, but its not always a good idea to go below MOD8 because playback issues can occur in certain devices. For instance if you use a MOD2 for Forumotion your resolution that was fromS ah 1a6r:e9 :w idescreen DVD then turn on softsubs in Media Player Classic, its possiWble lycoum we illle saeren ignrgefeilnte arsll oveNr oytoifuicra vtiodenos when playing it back, while with MOD16 it wont do that and will be fully compatible. I've had that happen to me in the past and I ended up not using subtitles until I learned MOD16 or MOD8 was the correct way to solve that issue. If MOD2 doesn't give you any problem with subtitles or the video you encoded at MOD2 resolution, then feel free to use it if you wish, it should work just fine. Not all sources end up with that issue I mentioned with the subtitles, using MOD8 or MOD16 just means alot less worries about compatibility or possible issues.

[RESOLUTION SUGGESTIONS]

Follow these and you should have no issues with playback at all and higher compatibility with other devices

These resolutions are meant for NTSC sources or for converting PAL to NTSC resolutions. If you are working with PAL and keeping it PAL, the resolutions will have a different height.

NOTE: I try to keep compatibility with all or most devices. You do not always need to worry about keeping things the way I mentioned as long as it plays back on the device you want it to just fine.

4:3 DVD = 640x480 ­ MOD16 16:9 DVD = 848x480 ­ MOD16 (If your using this size, then be sure to crop 2 from the left and 2 from the right of the video if you didn't already crop anything from the sides. If you did already crop a total of 4 or more pixels from the sides, then dont bother. Its originally 853x480 and cropping 2 off of each side keeps the aspect ratio closer. The reasons you don't want to go with 853x480 would include these. 1. 853 is not an even number and you usually want to use even numbers for your resolution. 2. It's not MOD8 or MOD16 and that can cause problems in some devices playback when using subtitles, such as a green screen for example. (You can use 853x480 for your video if you want, it will still work fine, but I wouldn't recommend it if compatibility with other devices is something you want. It's possible some devices might not like an odd number resolution)

4:3 Blu­Ray 720p = 960x720 ­ MOD16 16:9 Blu­Ray 720p = 1280x720 ­ MOD16

4:3 Blu­Ray 1080p = 1440x1080 ­ MOD8 16:9 Blu­Ray 1080p = 1920x1080 ­ MOD8

If you found your resolution listed above, then you can skip the tad bit of information just below and move on to below the next separator line. You don't have to worry about the tad bit of information below if you already have your resolution from the list above.

If you have another widescreen aspect ratio that is really thin or doesn't take up the entire screen height wise and it isn't listed above, then just crop the black bars off and count how many pixels you cropped off, then move on below.

NOTE: If you do not mind all the black space on the video, then just leave it alone and make it 1920x1080, 1280x720, or 848x480 without cropping.

Once you have cropped the black off, take the amount of pixels you cropped off to get rid of the black bars from the top and bottom and subtract it from the height value. So if it was a 1080p source and lets say you had to take off 160 total from the top and bottom to remove the black bars, then you would get 1760x1080. 1760 divided by 16 gives you 110. 16 goes evenly into that new 1760 number so its MOD16. A MOD16 height and MOD8 width is probly not the best idea for compatibility. Yeah it will work fine, but its possible you can get the issue I mentioned above about subtitles. Keep it like this if you want, or resize it to make the height MOD8 as well, the choice is yours. (If it plays back fine on the device you want it to then keeping it isn't a problem at all because it works for you. If you wish to change it then read below)

If you chose to change it, we want to find the nearest MOD8 resolution whether its higher or lower. Just add 8 to the 1760 to get 1768 and divide it by 8. It will go in perfectly, now try 16 and it doesnt go in anymore, that means its now MOD8. Now lets check less. Subtract 8 from 1760 to get 1752 and divide by 8. You notice 8 wont work and you didn't get a number without a decimal, so take 8 more off. 1746 and divide by 8. You notice it wont work again, so take 8 more off to get 1744. You notice now that it finally works and is MOD8.

In this case going higher by 8 pixels or lower by 24 pixels makes it a perfect MOD8. Since the higher one is less change, we will be going with the higher one.

So your chosen resolution is 1768x1080. Now what to do with those extra 8 pixels?

1. You can stretch the image height by 8 pixels just a tad and leave it as it is because you added 8 pixels already and it did this part. (Means don't worry about it your done just by making it 1768 height)

2. You can stretch the image height just a tad by leaving it as it is, and then crop a little off the sides to stretch its width just a tad. (Somewhere close to 4­8 pixels) This will stretch it taller by the 8 pixels you added and then stretch it width wise by cutting a little picture off the sides. 4 pixels isn't too bad of picture loss.

3. You can go back and crop off 8 less total pixels from the top and or bottom and accept tiny black bars on the top and bottom of the image that way you don't alter it's aspect in any way.

In the example above, we cropped off 160 pixels from the top and bottom. more than likely 80 from top and 80 from bottom. So just crop it 8 less. Keep 4 more on top and 4 more on bottom (Which is 8, the amount you had to add to height) so your only cropping a total of 152 off. Yes this will leave tiny black bars above and below the video, but you didn't have to stretch or crop any video this way.

Doing it this way is probly the better choice if you don't mind the black bars. Their going to be pretty much invisible on a TV, the only way you would usually notice is in a media player window that shapes itself to the video as its sized. The window will have a little blank space for the black bars is all. Once the window is made fullscreen, you probly wont even see them because their on the top and bottom and are black like the usual media player background on playback.

[PAL RESOLUTION SUGGESTIONS]

If the video is more soft/blurry than you would like from it being scaled to PAL resolution, just go ahead and resize it to one of the NTSC resolutions above. If it looks fine in it's PAL resolution and you want to keep it, these are the typical resolutions used.

4:3 DVD = 768x576 ­ MOD16 16:9 DVD = 1024x576 ­ MOD16

4:3 Blu­Ray 720p = 960x720 ­ MOD16 16:9 Blu­Ray 720p = 1280x720 ­ MOD16

4:3 Blu­Ray 1080p = 1440x1080 ­ MOD8 16:9 Blu­Ray 1080p = 1920x1080 ­ MOD8 Forumotion Share : Welcome learningfilters Notifications ­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­

Now that we have done all of that, its time to look at and make the basic script MeGui wrote for you more advanced and add in only the filters that are needed.

1. Hit the preview button in the AVS Script Creator and you will see a preview of how your video looks now with your current script. It should resize itself and crop itself as you specified earlier in the preview window.

2. Go to the Script tab and you will see your entire script and can now add to it or change it. Make sure your deinterlace method is correct and its not Hybrid=3 or Hybrid=1, it should be Hybrid=0. If its Yadif, then change it to QTGMC(preset="slow", matchpreset="slow", matchpreset2="slow", sourcematch=3).

3. Examine your video closely and only use the filters that are needed unless you think it looks better to you for some reason. Look above in the examples and suggested filters for fixing them to help you out. When you see something in the video that needs fixed, go to the bottom of the script and put the desired filter at the bottom.

4. Make sure your script is written properly and then hit the preview button to see the results of your current script. Once it looks acceptable to you, then save your script and prepare for the next step.

[IMPORTANT NOTE]

There are some rules you need to be sure to follow or you can ruin your outcome and finished video.

Always use the anti dot crawl filter and the derainbow filter BEFORE the deinterlacer or TIVTC in the script. So if you need to add checkmate(thr=9, max=9, tthr2=0) to your script, make sure its above the TIVTC or deinterlacing part of the script.

As long as you keep it in this order when using filters, for the most part everything should turn out great. There a a few rare instances where using the derainbower after the deinterlacer works better depending on when the rainbows were put in the source, but 99% of the time its better to be used before it.

ANTI DOT CRAWL = Checkmate(thr=9, max=9, tthr2=0) DERAINBOWER = LutDeRainbow() or Bifrost() DEINTERLACER CROP RESIZE HALO REMOVAL = HQDering(smoother=deen("a3d",1,9,2,2)) DENOISER = Deen("c3d",0,3,2) or Convolution3D(0, 3, 4, 3, 2, 2.8, 0) for weaker denoising. ANTIALIASER = Santiag() or Maa() or Maa2(ss=2.80) CHROMA SHARPEN = MergeChroma(awarpsharp2(depth=4)) LINE THINNER = aWarpSharp(depth=3.5, blurlevel=1) CHROMA SHIFTING = ChromaShiftSP(X=0.00, Y=0.00) # [X = Left/Right +/­ Y = Up/Down +/­] BRIGHTNESS, CONTRAST, SATURATION ADJUSTMENTS = Tweak(bright=0.00, cont=1.00, sat=1.00) SHARPENER = LimitedSharpenFaster(ss_x=1.0, ss_y=1.0, strength=5, overshoot=0, undershoot=0, soft=0, edgemode=0)

NOTE: There will be a rare occasion that you need to put the antialiaser after the sharpener at the bottom, but only if you use a sharpener that causes aliasing. (This is described more in detail in the part above about sharpening)

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Here is a huge list of pretty much all of the plugins/filters there are available for avisynth and their neatly organized. (This is not every single one in existence, but it's about all you will ever need and more)

http://avisynth.nl/index.php/External_filters

I highly recommend you use this list to help you find the different available plugins and filters for each type of issue you learned about above, unless of course I already gave you the best one to use in the information, then you don't really need to bother.

Just remember this! "Newer is not always better" sometimes a plugin/filter that's been updated is worse than the version before or has a side effect that you wont want or like. (I tested multiple versions of the plugins I use and chose the best one, I also customized my own ones as well. You can download all of these in the thread where I put all the software you will need)

You can also download all of the AVISynth plugins I have and use here.

http://blackstaranime.forum.com.bz/t321­encoding­software­you­will­need­for­my­tutorials

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Lets take a look at some finished scripts just to make sure you get a better idea of how they should look when your done with them.

You will probly notice MeGui already made the majority of your script for you. All you need to do is check it, and then add to it depending on your needs.

It usually looks similar to this depending on what your working with.

LoadPlugin(The needed plugin location will be in here) DGDecode_mpeg2source(The source file location will be in here) # Or if its a Blu­Ray/Other video file, it will be something else LoadPlugin(If working with a DVD you will usually see the colormatrix plugin loaded here) ColorMatrix(When working with a DVD, the settings will be filled in here automatically) LoadPlugin(If your deinterlacing, then your deinterlacing plugin will be loaded here) tfm(Your anime deinterlacing settings will automatically be put in here) # Remember, change Hybrid=1 or Hybrid=3 into Hybrid=0 and if it says Yadif, then delete the entire line of Yadif and change it into Forumotion QTGMC(preset="slow", matchSprheaserte= :" slow", matchpreset2="slow", sourcematch=3) Welcome learningfilters Notifications Crop(Your cropping choice from the I/O tab will be in here if you cropped anything ­ Top, Right, Bottom, Left) LanczosResize(The size you set in the I/O tab will be in here if you resized at all ­ Width, Height) # Lanczos (Sharp)

That's usually how the premade version looks, very similar to that if you followed my instructions and set this up. Now we just go below the resizer and add to the script.

NOTE: The examples below are examples and not the exact scripts I would be using. These examples are meant give you an idea of how your script will look and or how to use AVISynth a bit more.

Say we have an anime DVD source that is 4:3 aspect, has a decent amount of noise we want to remove, there is some dot crawl and rainbows in the source as well, it could use a bit of sharpening because its a tad blurry, it could use some antialising because the lines look a bit aliased, and we also want to get rid of some black bars on the sides. When finished, your script should look something like this depending on the denoise filter you chose to use and cropping settings you chose to use.

LoadPlugin("C:\Your plugin location here") DGDecode_mpeg2source("C:\D2V file location here") checkmate(thr=9, max=9, tthr2=0) LoadPlugin("C:\Your plugin location here") ColorMatrix(hints=???, interlaced=???, threads=?) # Your settings will be what meGui chose for you LoadPlugin("C:\Your plugin location here") derainbower of your choice() tfm(order=?).tdecimate(mode=?,hybrid=0) # Remember, change Hybrid=1 or Hybrid=3 into Hybrid=0 and if it says Yadif, then delete the entire line of Yadif and change it into QTGMC(preset="slow", matchpreset="slow", matchpreset2="slow", sourcematch=3) Crop(6, 0, ­6, 0) LanczosResize(640, 480) # Lanczos (Sharp) Deen("c3d",0,3,2) santiag() LimitedSharpenFaster(ss_x=2.0, ss_y=2.0, strength=80, overshoot=0, undershoot=0, soft=0, edgemode=0)

Okay now, say we have an anime DVD source that's 16:9 aspect ratio, it has only a little amount of noise we want to remove or it has a decent amount and we don't want to do much damage to the fine details, the lines look better with an antialiaser, the colors are bleeding a little bit to the right and need to be moved left, the chroma needs sharpened, and the image was originally very blurry and we want to sharpen it some. When finished, your script should look something like this depending on the denoise filter you chose to use and cropping settings you chose to use.

LoadPlugin("C:\Your plugin location here") DGDecode_mpeg2source("C:\D2V file location here") LoadPlugin("C:\Your plugin location here") ColorMatrix(hints=???, interlaced=???, threads=?) # Your settings will be what meGui chose for you LoadPlugin("C:\Your plugin location here") tfm(order=?).tdecimate(mode=?,hybrid=0) # Remember, change Hybrid=1 or Hybrid=3 into Hybrid=0 and if it says Yadif, then delete the entire line of Yadif and change it into QTGMC(preset="slow", matchpreset="slow", matchpreset2="slow", sourcematch=3) Crop(2, 0, ­2, 0) LanczosResize(848, 480) # Lanczos (Sharp) Convolution3D(0, 3, 4, 3, 2, 2.8, 0) santiag() MergeChroma(awarpsharp(depth=6)) ChromaShiftSP(X=2.60, Y=0.00) LimitedSharpenFaster(ss_x=2.0, ss_y=2.0, strength=130, overshoot=0, undershoot=0, soft=0, edgemode=0)

Okay, now say we have an anime DVD source that's 4:3 aspect ratio, there are much larger black lines on the sides than usual, there is a very large amount of noise we want to reduce without doing far too much damage to fine details, there are some halos/ringing that we want to remove, there are a few rainbows we want to reduce or remove, the lines look better with an antialiaser, and we want to sharpen the image a small amount. When finished, your script should look something like this depending on the denoise filter you chose to use and cropping settings you chose to use.

LoadPlugin("C:\Your plugin location here") DGDecode_mpeg2source("C:\D2V file location here") LoadPlugin("C:\Your plugin location here") ColorMatrix(hints=???, interlaced=???, threads=?) # Your settings will be what meGui chose for you LoadPlugin("C:\Your plugin location here") derainbower of your choice() tfm(order=?).tdecimate(mode=?,hybrid=0) # Remember, change Hybrid=1 or Hybrid=3 into Hybrid=0 and if it says Yadif, then delete the entire line of Yadif and change it into QTGMC(preset="slow", matchpreset="slow", matchpreset2="slow", sourcematch=3) Crop(12, 4, ­10, ­2) # Notice in this case, I followed that rule of cropping more than 8 off of both sides that I mentioned in the section above about cropping and resizing when you were using the AVS Script Creator. I had to crop 6 more than a total of 16 off of the sides so in order to keep the aspect ratio from looking too stretched, I took a total of 6 from the top and bottom as well to even it back out. LanczosResize(640, 480) # Lanczos (Sharp) Dehalo filter of your choice() Deen("c3d",0,5,2) santiag() LimitedSharpenFaster(ss_x=2.0, ss_y=2.0, strength=50, overshoot=0, undershoot=0, soft=0, edgemode=0)

Okay now, say we have an anime DVD source that's 16:9 aspect ratio, there is a bit of dot crawl we want to get rid of, the lines look better with an antialiaser, the lines are very thick and blurry looking and we want to thin and sharpen them a little bit, and we want to sharpen the image a tad bit. When finished, your script should look something like this depending on the denoise filter you chose to use and cropping settings you chose to use.

LoadPlugin("C:\Your plugin location here") DGDecode_mpeg2source("C:\D2V file location here") checkmate(thr=9, max=9, tthr2=0) Forumotion LoadPlugin("C:\Your plugin locSathioanr eh e:r e") Welcome learningfilters Notifications ColorMatrix(hints=???, interlaced=???, threads=?) # Your settings will be what meGui chose for you LoadPlugin("C:\Your plugin location here") tfm(order=?).tdecimate(mode=?,hybrid=0) # Remember, change Hybrid=1 or Hybrid=3 into Hybrid=0 and if it says Yadif, then delete the entire line of Yadif and change it into QTGMC(preset="slow", matchpreset="slow", matchpreset2="slow", sourcematch=3) Crop(2, 0, ­2, 0) LanczosResize(848, 480) # Lanczos (Sharp) santiag() MergeChroma(awarpsharp(depth=6)) aWarpSharp(depth=4.5, blurlevel=1) LimitedSharpenFaster(ss_x=2.0, ss_y=2.0, strength=50, overshoot=0, undershoot=0, soft=0, edgemode=0)

I think you get the idea how scripts are supposed to be used now and can easily make one once you know what you want to do with it.

Now that your script/scripts are all written out its time to load them into MeGui and encode them all.

The tutorial for this can be found here

http://blackstaranime.forum.com.bz/t311­how­to­use­avisynth­scripts­in­megui#1340

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Like the quality of my anime encodes and want more of my work? You can find all of my work here!

List of my encodings and release plans (Archive) http://blackstaranime.forum.com.bz/t158­darkdream­high­quality­anime­archive­future­release­plans

DarkDream787 Subject: Re: How to use AVISynth Sat Jan 14, 2017 4:45 am

I was adding more information into the tutorial to cover ghosting/blending and changing framerates as promised and the post became too long, so I had to split it into 2 posts. This is actually probly easier this way anyways.

I'm not finished with the ghosting/blending and framerates changing section, but there's enough info to use and learn to mess with it some until I get the image up and add in the framerate changing section of it.

Enjoy!

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Like the quality of my anime encodes and want more of my work? You can find all of my work here!

List of my encodings and release plans (Archive) http://blackstaranime.forum.com.bz/t158­darkdream­high­quality­anime­archive­future­release­plans

DarkDream787 Subject: Re: How to use AVISynth Wed Jan 18, 2017 10:04 pm

I added a couple more visible example images to this and some more information to the ghosting/blending section. I will add a little more information later which will cover framerate changing and colorspaces. The changing framerates will be a continuation of the Ghosting/Blending since they usually go hand in hand at times.

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Like the quality of my anime encodes and want more of my work? You can find all of my work here!

List of my encodings and release plans (Archive) http://blackstaranime.forum.com.bz/t158­darkdream­high­quality­anime­archive­future­release­plans

DarkDream787 Subject: Re: How to use AVISynth Thu Jan 19, 2017 11:01 pm

Added more detail and examples to section about rainbow removal.

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Like the quality of my anime encodes and want more of my work? You can find all of my work here!

List of my encodings and release plans (Archive) http://blackstaranime.forum.com.bz/t158­darkdream­high­quality­anime­archive­future­release­plans

DarkDream787 Subject: Re: How to use AVISynth Fri Jan 20, 2017 6:33 pm

Added more examples and a bit more detail to the color bleeding section.

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List of my encodings and release plans (Archive) http://blackstaranime.forum.com.bz/t158­darkdream­high­quality­anime­archive­future­release­plans

Subject: Re: How to use AVISynth Sat Feb 11, 2017 2:53 pm DarkDream787 Forumotion Added some information on chSahngairneg :f ramerates. Added in another example to the rainbow removal section.Welcome learningfilters Notifications

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List of my encodings and release plans (Archive) http://blackstaranime.forum.com.bz/t158­darkdream­high­quality­anime­archive­future­release­plans

DarkDream787 Subject: Re: How to use AVISynth Fri Apr 14, 2017 7:30 am

Updated the denoising section a little and added a helpful hint because my methods have changed since back when I first wrote that.

I will try to add in information on line darkening and HD, SD colorspaces soon.

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List of my encodings and release plans (Archive) http://blackstaranime.forum.com.bz/t158­darkdream­high­quality­anime­archive­future­release­plans

DarkDream787 Subject: Re: How to use AVISynth Wed May 03, 2017 12:53 am

Added a few screenshots and bit of information to the denoise section of this tutorial.

Upscaling, Dowscaling, and Colorspaces information should be getting added soon.

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Like the quality of my anime encodes and want more of my work? You can find all of my work here!

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