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First Steps in Winemaking FIRST STEPS IN WINEMAKING A complete month-by-month guide to winemaking (including the production of cider, perry and mead) and beer brewing at home, with over 130 tried and tested recipes 3rd EDITION 6th IMPRESSION By C. J. J. BERRY (Editor, The Amateur Winemaker) "The Amateur Winemaker," North Croye, The Avenue, Andover, Hants About this book THIS little book really started as a collection of recipes, reliable recipes which had appeared in the monthly magazine, "The Amateur Winemaker." First published in January 1960, it was an instant and phenomenal success, for a quarter of a million copies have been sold, and it is now recognised as the best "rapid course" in winemaking available to the beginner. This new edition has the advantage of modern format, and better illustrations, and the opportunity has been taken to introduce new material and bring the book right up to date. Those who are in need of recipes, and who have probably just fallen under the spell of this fascinating hobby of ours, will also want to know more of its technicalities, so this book includes a wealth of practical tips and certain factual information that any winemaker would find useful. In particular, the hydrometer, ignored in many books on winemaking, has been dealt with simply but adequately, and there is a really practical section on "home-brew" beers and ales . you will find this small book a mine of useful knowledge. The original recipes are there, over 130 of them, with quite a few others, and they are all arranged in the months of their making, so that you can pursue your winemaking all the year round with this veritable Winemakers' Almanac. Further up-to-date recipes appear in the companion volumes, "130 New Winemaking Recipes" and "Home-Brewed Beers and Stouts" "Making Wines Like Those you Buy" and "Making Mead" (each 5/-, post 8d.). I hope you will enjoy this book as much as I have enjoyed writing it . best wishes for successful winemaking! C. J. J. BERRY. Wine vocabulary AEROBIC FERMENTATION: A fermentation conducted in the presence of air. Usually the first part of the fermentation process. ANAEROBIC FERMENTATION: A fermentation from which air is excluded; the second part of the fermentation process. BODY: The fullness of a wine. CAMPDEN TABLETS: Useful in winemaking for various sterilisation or purification purposes. They supply sulphur dioxide in convenient form. CARBON DIOXIDE: The colourless, odourless gas given off by a fermenting liquor. DRY: A wine is said to be dry when all the sugar in it has been used up by the fermentation: it is also said to have "fermented right out" FERMENTING (or "working"): The process brought about by yeast acting upon sugar to produce alcohol and carbon dioxide, FERMENTATION TRAP (or Am LOCK): A little gadget used to protect the fermentation from Infection by the vinegar fly. Also called a "bubbler." FINING: Removing suspended solids from a cloudy wine by filtering or adding wine finings. FLOGGER: A wooden tool for banging corks home. FORTIFICATION: Increasing the strength of wine beyond that possible by natural fermentation by adding spirit. HYDROMETER: An instrument for measuring the weight (or sugar content) of a liquid. HYDROMETER JAR: The jar in which a hydrometer is floated for a reading to be taken. JELLY-BAG: For straining wines thoroughly. LEES: The deposit of yeast and solids formed during fermentation. LIQUOR: The unfermented, sugar-containing liquid which will eventually be wine. MALO-LACTIC FERMENTATION: See p. 36. MUST: The pulp or combination of basic ingredients from which a wine is made. NUTRIENT: Nitrogenous matter added to the liquor to boost the action of the yeast; yeast food. PROOF: Proof spirit contains 57.1% alcohol. 70 deg. proof really means 70% of proof spirit. Thus ordinary proprietary bottles of spirit will contain only 40% alcohol by volume RACKING: Siphoning the wine off the lees to clear and stabilise it. STABLE: A wine is said to be stable when there is no danger of further fermentation. STOPPER: A cork or polythene bottle closure with a projecting cap. VINEGAR: Wine which has "gone wrong." VINEGAR FLY: The winemaker's biggest enemy. If a vinegar . fly gets at your wine it may turn to vinegar. A fascinating craft IF you are toying with the idea of trying your hand at winemaking, delay no longer. Go right ahead! By so doing you will be joining the thousands of happy folk who, in recent years, have discovered this intriguing and rewarding hobby. It is, indeed, a pastime which truly "brings its own rewards," for there can be few pleasures to equal that of being able to offer a friend, and enjoy with him, a glass of one's own wine. In post-war years there has been an astonishing revival of home winemaking in Britain; wine, it is true, has been made here for centuries, but sugar scarcity during World War II and lack of opportunity debarred many from taking up the pastime, and it was left to the few to keep our craft alive. Now, however, it is attracting the interest of thousands, and scientific developments and the spread of wine-making knowledge have made it possible for anyone to produce a palatable wine in their own home. There is absolutely no restriction upon how much wine you make as long as it is entirely for your own consumption, but not a drop of it must be sold, or you will be in trouble with the law. Nor must you distil, a practice which is both dangerous in that alcohols which are not safely potable may be produced, and illegal, carrying very heavy penalties. You may also brew at home as much duty-free beer as you like, but not a drop of it must be sold, since no duty has been paid upon it. What you will need DO not, at the outset, buy a lot of expensive equipment: it is better to start making wine with what you have—you probably have in your kitchen already some of the essentials—and then to acquire the rest by stages as the necessity arises. For a start you will undoubtedly need some kind of boiler, and if you can lay your hands on one that will hold three to five gallons it will prove ideal. Failing that, you can "make do" with a one-gallon or one-and-a-half-gallon saucepan. Avoid containers and utensils of iron, brass and copper, which may be affected by acid and impart hazes and flavours to your wine; use only boilers of aluminium or sound —unchipped—enamel ware. You will also need a large vessel in which to do your soaking, or mashing, and one of three to five gallons is ideal. The most commonly used nowadays is a plastic dustbin, since it is cheap, easy to clean and store, and light to handle, and when it splits or is useless for winemaking it can start doing duty as a dustbin! Alternatively you can use an earthenware crock of some sort. Tall, cylindrical ones are the most convenient, since they are easier to cover and take up less floor space than the "bread-pan" variety. They should be hard salt-glazed, since lead glaze can have poisonous results. True, it is rarely encountered on domestic vessels nowadays but one does occasionally come across it on very old ones, or on those of Middle Eastern origin, so this warning needs to be issued! Salt glaze is hard, but lead glaze is soft, and can be dented with the thumbnail. You probably already have a polythene bucket, and will find this extremely useful for small quantities; polythene vessels are excellent for winemaking. Also obtain several one-gallon glass jars for fermenting—those with "ear" handles are the most popular—and some rubber bungs and corks to fit. These jars can often be obtained cheaply from grocers, cafes, or hairdressers, for they are used for fruit squash and chemicals in bulk. On no account omit to buy or make as many fermentation traps (see separate chapter) as you are likely to need, for they are indeed the winemaker's best friend. You will also find it useful to collect ½ -gallon bottles (Winchesters) and a supply of white wine bottles—NOT squash or sauce bottles, please!—and corks or stoppers to fit. It is a false economy to use old corks, which may infect your wine; always use new corks, and soak them in a sterilising solution before insertion. Alternatively, buy some of the new plastic stoppers which can be used over and over again, after sterilising by boiling water. You will find a funnel, a really large polythene one, most useful, and it is worth obtaining some nylon sieves or material for straining purposes. Do not forget to obtain, too, a supply of Campden tablets (ordinary fruit-preserving tablets) which have many uses in winemaking, and a rubber or polyvinyl tube for siphoning the wine off the yeast deposit. A colander, scales, a wooden spoon, and measuring jugs you will already have in your kitchen. Refinements THESE are the bare essentials, but undoubtedly as you progress in winemaking you will add other pieces of desirable equipment—a thermometer, a hydrometer for calculating the strength of your wine, glass tubing for taking samples, small funnels, casks, stone jars, tie-on labels for jars and stick-on labels for bottles, a corking device, a cork borer, jelly bags for straining, a bottle-cleaning brush, and perhaps a small press or one of the quite inexpensive juice extractors now obtainable which can do so very much to remove the "cookery" from winemaking and make it that more pleasurable.
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