In Asia: Temptations in Asia Page 1 of 6

Wine Reviews Enter Full/Partial Keyword(s)

HOME SUPPORT VIRTUAL TOUR SITE MAP CONTACT US BULLETIN BOARD

http://www.erobertparker.com/inasia/ia47.asp 3/10/2010 In Asia: Tempranillo Temptations in Asia Page 2 of 6

Tempranillo Temptations in Asia

In Asia Home In Asia Article Archive Visit the In Asia Forum Asian Food Lexicon for About Lisa

Quick Links What's New Weekly Wine Buys Cartoon of the Week Vino Vignette of the Month Gift Subscriptions RSS Feeds Wine Advisor Updates I remember first discovering the earthy, vanilla and spice, euphemistically rustic flavours of 2010 TWA Editorial Calendar Tempranillo in the late 1980s and early 90s, when I was residing in South London (not Clapham or even Balham I hasten to add, but the euphemistically rustic Loughborough Ratings On The Go Junction part of Brixton). During my latter years of being a student and those subsequent Parker In Your Palm simpler days of casual employment and bohemian idealism, the wonderfully affordable, pale, leather ‘n tobacco, sweet-American-oaked style from Spanish regions that I’d recently More Information backpacked through went down a treat. Back then a growing number of labels of that Executive Wine Seminars unmistakable Spanish Tempranillo style were widely available at very reasonable value in the Articles of Merit Find It Online UK, and in fact for a while was the nation’s best selling . A few price hikes and Alan Richman years of general quality issues later, Rioja’s place in the veins of Brits has been diffused by Wine Education more competitive grog from a whole army of New World Johnny-come-latelies. Nonetheless, Glossary of Wine Terms the UK remains Rioja’s largest export customer, slurping up 36% of the region’s total output The Chart in 2008. The Wine Advocate TWA Rating System Unlike the UK, the Spanish Tempranillo bug has never really caught on here in Asia. Japan is Asia’s largest market for Spanish , though these account for only about 6% of Our Reviewers imports. In Singapore vino Espanol is less than 3% of the market, while in Hong Kong the Robert Parker wines equate to roughly 6% of the market by volume though are largely sold on price, Antonio Galloni Neal Martin accounting for only about 2% of that market by value. Jay Miller David Schildknecht I think a major marketing set-back for Tempranillo in Asia is that unlike , Mark Squires the grape lacks superstar brands such as Chateau Lafite, Mouton Rothschild, Screaming Kevin Zraly Eagle or Harlan Estate to provide aspirational carrots in affluent areas of patchy wine Past Reviewers education. True, there are a handful of B-list celebrities such as Vega Sicilia, Dominio de Pingus, Artadi, Roda and Pesquera, but sadly these great names are often barely recognized Links here. The Wine Advocate Fund Educational Perhaps part and parcel of this educational factor, another of the main reasons that Retailer Tempranillo and Spanish wines in general do poorly in Asian markets is their chameleon Accessory/Storage Other nature that, beyond the simple brand name “Rioja”, makes them difficult to sum up for consumers. A good Tempranillo based wine from Rioja can smell and taste vastly different from a , Navarra, La Mancha or even other areas of Rioja. Don’t get me wrong, this is a commendable attribute. Comparisons are frequently made to , a grape that is similarly compelled to speak of its provenance. But that the grape can appear so varied in personality is a complicated pill to swallow, which isn’t helped by Tempranillo having a whole posse of different aliases: Cencibel, Tinto de Toro, Ull de Llebre and Tinto Fino, just to name a few. That said, Tempranillo is not so easy to pronounce for native speakers of some Asian languages – perhaps it would be better off using another of those many calling-cards here? I’ve always thought that Cencibel has a nicer ring to it.

Yet even for a wine expert, just trying to get your head round modern Rioja is a minefield. Apart from the reflections of different , the induced profiles these days can vary wildly, particularly considering many of the newer styles that are being forged more like top wines of Bordeaux. Dozens of mixed signals seem to exist – who knows what pulling that cork will unleash? An inky, tannic, French barrique, cedared-up powerhouse that needs

http://www.erobertparker.com/inasia/ia47.asp 3/10/2010 In Asia: Tempranillo Temptations in Asia Page 3 of 6

years to be approachable, or a glass of soft, simple, Beaujolais-like strawberries and figs or that traditional tried and tested vanilla-laced, oxidative, leather ‘n tobacco tipple?

If we focus purely on top end of quality, few would argue that Rioja’s younger brother, Ribera del Duero, has been the one to set the benchmark, consistently demonstrating the true characteristics and potential of the Tempranillo grape (er, locally known as Tinto Fino). Mavericks like Domingo Garramiola (1878 – 1933), one of the founding winemakers at Vega Sicilia, and later Alejandro Fernandez of Pesquera demonstrated that by applying lower yields, berry selection and judicious handling, the grape’s flavours can be coaxed forward rather than dried out. In short, they took Tempranillo beyond instilled vanilla, leather ‘n tobacco. Nowadays I’m finding that the best young Tempranillos typically reveal plum, black cherry and blackberry flavours complimented by pepper and spices plus a uniquely earthy / savoury character that is not so dissimilar to great Pinot Noir. The finest examples can age for twenty years or more.

In February 2009, I went nosing around Tokyo to check out the availability of good Spanish Tempranillos from a variety of regions and price points, tasting more than forty personally selected examples. Though, as I’ve already touched upon, styles and quality levels were all over the place, there were an impressive number of truly interesting wines to recommend, with my tasting notes for the cream of the crop below.

Then in March 2009, I caught up with Xavier Ausas, the winemaker at Vega Sicilia and Christopher Cannan of Europvin, agents for the winery, at a lunch hosted by their Singapore distributors, Vinum. The Vega Sicilia group now incorporates three separate focusing on Tempranillo, including Alion in the Ribera and Pintia in Toro. Christopher explained that currently 4-5% of Vega Sicilia’s production is going to Asia with Japan as the region’s largest market, followed by Singapore. For the record, Spain consumes 65% of their production.

It worth taking a moment to explain the important difference between the two top Vega Sicilia Unico wines that have confusingly similar names and labels: Unico Reserva and Unico Reserva Especial. Unico Reserva is the flagship wine while Reserva Especial is an unusual blend of three top , with a new blend released every year. Traditionally Unico Reserva has spent at least ten years aging in barrel / bottle, with a long period in cask experiencing a complex series of rackings from old oak to new then old again, from large barrels to small. However, Xavier Ausas is now shortening Unico’s time in barrel and increasing the time in bottle prior to release, though it still goes through the myriad of rackings. The result appears to give a purer, more varietally expressive wine. Unico Reserva is not produced every year, seven vintages in every decade upon average. Valbuena is a third cuvee from Vega Sicilia. It’s made from younger vines and in years when Unico is not produced the grapes normally destined for Unico will go into Valbuena. All the Vega Sicilia wines are made from approximately 75-80% Tinto Fino and 15-20% Bordeaux varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon, and .

Tempranillo, Tinto Fino, Cencibel, whatever you want to call it, I’m hoping sales will soon be looking up for Spain’s most important grape here in Asia. At the pinnacles of quality, the wonderfully idiosyncratic attributes of this incredible grape and its ability to express are being nurtured and successfully manifested by diligent winemakers around Spain more than ever before. At the everyday level, many lesser known wines are now offering a lot of pure dark fruit and savoury spice at great value. What’s more, Tempranillo can marry very well with a broad range of Asian dishes – lighter or mature styles are a great match with O-toro sashimi or Shabu Shabu, while denser, more tannic wines are delicious with Wagyu beef, full flavoured Cantonese red meat dishes or beef Rendang. Me gusto mucho!

Tasting Notes from Tokyo Tempranillo Tasting

Raiz de Guzman 2004 Nuestras Cepas, S.L., Ribera del Duero 94 points Imported in Japan by Pesuca Co., Ltd. Deep garnet colour. The nose is very purely fruited, youthful, providing a good intensity of blackberry, black plum, spice, game and espresso aromas. The palate is both concentrated and well structured with medium to firm, finely grained tannins and medium to high acidity. Very long finish. Drink now to 2020. Tasted February 2009.

Liberalia Cero Tinto 2006 Bodega Liberalia, Toro 92 points Imported in Japan by AGRI Co., Ltd. Deep garnet-purple. Beautifully expressive nose displaying aromas of blueberry, warm plum, mocha, cumin, cedar and a touch of violets. The full bodied palate gives concentrated plum and spice flavours with a distinctively earthy / savoury edge. Medium+ level of velvety tannins and medium+ acidity to balance. Very long finish. Drink now to 2020. Tasted February 2009.

http://www.erobertparker.com/inasia/ia47.asp 3/10/2010 In Asia: Tempranillo Temptations in Asia Page 4 of 6

Ondarre Reserva 2002 Bodegas Ondare, Rioja 92 points Imported in Japan by ZAS Co., Ltd. Deep garnet colour. Earthy, gamey nose with some warm plum and dark cherry fruit plus a touch of leather and girolles. The palate gives lots of layers of fruit and savoury flavours – very peppery. Well structured with medium to high acidity and a medium+ level of finely grained tannins. Long finish. A good example of an old school wine that works beautifully. Drink now to 2016. Tasted February 2009.

Tinto Pesquera Crianza 2006 Alejandro Fernandez, Ribera del Duero 91 points Imported in Japan by Millesimes Inc. Deep garnet-purple colour. The nose is a little closed revealing a waft of warm raspberry, red cherry, white pepper and forest floor. The palate shows a very well balanced, elegantly structured style with a medium+ level of fine tannins and medium+ acidity. Great concentration of earthy, mineral flavours and red berry fruit. Long finish. Drink now to 2020. Tasted February 2009.

La Planta 2007 Bodegas Arzuaga Navarro, Ribera del Duero 91 points Imported in Japan by ZAS Co., Ltd. Medium to deep garnet-purple colour. Complex nose with a core of black cherry fruit complimented by smoky bacon, game, loam and truffles plus a whiff of cigar box. Medium to firm, finely grained tannins and medium to high acidity giving backbone to the generous fruit. Long finish with a bit of oak still standing out. Drink now to 2018. Tasted February 2009.

Condado de Haza Tinto 2006 Alejandro Fernandez, Ribera del Duero 91 points Imported in Japan by Millesimes Inc. Deep garnet purple colour. The nose is a little mute to begin, giving way to restrained aromas of vanilla, violets, dark cherry and black pepper. Though there’s plenty of weight on the palate, an elegant style emerges, finely structured with medium to high acidity and a medium+ level of grainy tannins. Long savoury finish. Drink now to 2019. Tasted February 2009.

Paramo de Guzman Barrica 2006 Nuestras Cepas, S.L., Ribera del Duero 90 points Imported in Japan by Pesuca Co., Ltd. Medium to deep garnet colour. A slightly reduced nose with a waft of burnt rubber soon gives way to notes of ripe cherry, game, cassia bud and leather. The medium to full bodied palate is very fruity balanced with a medium+ level of fine tannins and medium-high acidity. Long, spicy finish. Drink now to 2015. Tasted February 2009.

Lopez Cristobal Crianza 2004 Bodegas Lopez Cristobal, Ribera del Duero 90 points Imported in Japan by Mottox Inc. Deep garnet colour. Intense vanilla, exotic spice, fresh plum and hung game notes on the nose. The palate provides excellent concentration of dark berry flavours supported by a medium level of velvety tannins and medium+ acidity. Oak still dominates a little and needs another 6-12 months or so to marry. Long finish. Drink now to 2014. Tasted February 2009.

Cosme Palacia y Hermanos 2004 Rioja Bodegas Palacio, Rioja 90 points Imported in Japan by Cordon Vert Co., Ltd. Medium garnet colour. A faintly old school, sweaty saddles whiff backed up by pure aromas of warm raspberries and black pepper. Good concentration and structure on the palate with medium to high acidity and a medium+ level of chewy tannins. Lots of earthy fruit fleshing out the elegant style. Long finish. Drink now to 2012. Tasted February 2009.

Glorioso Gran Reserva 2000 Bodegas Palacio, Rioja 89 points Imported in Japan by Cordon Vert Co., Ltd. Medium garnet-brick colour. An oxidative style with notes of red berry compote, leather, white pepper and cigars. Medium level of silky tannins, medium+ acidity and a long earthy finish. Drink now to 2011. Tasted February 2009.

http://www.erobertparker.com/inasia/ia47.asp 3/10/2010 In Asia: Tempranillo Temptations in Asia Page 5 of 6

Valderiz Tomas Esteban 2003 Bodegas y Vinedos Valderiz, Ribera del Deuro 89 points Imported in Japan by Wine Press International Co., Ltd. Deep garnet colour. Warm cherry, marmite, iron ore and a touch of game on the nose plus a slight whiff of VA. The palate is dense, full bodied, with a medium level of velvety tannins and medium to high acidity. Long finish. Drink now to 2019. Tasted February 2009.

Ercavio Limited Selection 2004 Mas Que Vinos, Vino de la Tierra de Castillo 89 points Imported in Japan by Odex Japan Co., Ltd. Medium to deep garnet colour. Warm plum, blackberry and Chinese five spice aromas. The palate fills the mouth with pure ripe fruit balanced a medium+ level of silky tannins and medium to high level of acidity. Long spicy finish. Drink now to 2013. Tasted February 2009.

Protos Crianza 2005 Bodegas Protos, Ribera del Duero 89 points Imported in Japan by ZAS Co., Ltd. Very deep purple-black colour. A little reduced rubber to start with pleasant notes of blackberry, cinnamon, cloves and cedar. Firm, fine tannins and medium+ acidity. A little oaky. Long finish. Drink now to 2017. Tasted February 2009.

Valdehermoso Crianza 2004 Bodegas y Vinedos Valderiz, Ribera del Duero 89 points Imported in Japan by Wine Press International Co., Ltd. Deep garnet colour. Enticing aromas of blackberry, cinnamon, cloves, smoky bacon, black olives and cedar. Medium to firm, chewy tannins in the mouth with medium to high acidity and plenty of berry fruit and earthy flavour concentration. Long finish. Drink now to 2015. Tasted February 2009.

Torremayor Tempranillo Crianza 2005 Vina Santa Marina, Ribera del Guardiana 89 points Imported in Japan by Ilda Co., Ltd. Medium to deep garnet colour. Very ripe, cherry compote, leather and cumin aromas on the nose with a hint of tobacco leaf. The palate gives plenty of warm, ripe fruit with a medium level of velvety tannins and medium+ acidity. Long finish. Drink now to 2011. Tasted February 2009.

Azul y Garanza 2007 Bodegas Azul y Garanza, Navarra 88 points Imported in Japan by Mottox Inc. Medium garnet-purple colour. Very fruity, lifted cherry nose with a touch of fresh blackberry and white pepper. Medium level of silky tannins, medium acidity. Good balance, medium to long, spicy finish. Drink now to 2012. Tasted February 2009.

Marques de la Concordia Rioja 2006 88 points Imported in Japan by Inaba & Co., Ltd. Medium garnet colour. Warm raspberry and cherry aromas with a touch cinnamon, cloves and sweaty saddles. The palate provides a good mouthful of juicy fruit is balanced by medium to high acidity and a medium+ level of chewy tannins. Medium to long finish. Drink now to 2011. Tasted February 2009.

Pradorey Crianza 2004 Real Sitio de Ventosilla, Ribera del Duero 87 points Imported in Japan by Sensho Co., Ltd. Deep garnet colour. Dark cherry, freshly cracked black pepper, cloves and a touch of cedar on the nose. The full bodied palate has a medium+ level of finely grained tannins and medium+ acidity. The oak is a little obvious but this is otherwise a well balanced wine. Long finish. Drink now to 2014. Tasted February 2009.

Vizana Crianza 2004 Bodegas Viticultores de Barros, Ribera del Guadiana 87 points Imported in Japan by Wine Press International Co., Ltd. Medium to deep garnet colour. The nose is distinctly old-school but nonetheless interesting with oxidative notes of warm strawberries, leather, tobacco and a sprinkle of cinnamon. The palate is equally earthy / leathery with a medium+ level of silky tannins and medium+ acidity. Medium to long finish. Drink now to 2011. Tasted February 2009.

http://www.erobertparker.com/inasia/ia47.asp 3/10/2010 In Asia: Tempranillo Temptations in Asia Page 6 of 6

Paramo de Guzman Crianza 2004 Nuestras Cepas, S.L., Ribera del Duero 87 points Imported in Japan by Pesuca Co., Ltd. Deep garnet colour. Reduced, rubber and tar aromas slightly shadow the pure dark cherry, warm raspberry, loam and moss notes. Medium+ level of fine tannins, medium+ acidity. Medium to long finish. Drink now to 2015. Tasted February 2009.

Ramirez de la Piscina Crianza 2001 Bodegas Ramirez, Rioja 87 points Imported in Japan by Veritas Medium ruby-garnet colour going brick. Meaty, savoury nose, marmite, natto, dark cherry compote. Medium+ tannins, fine grained and a little astringent, medium to high acidity. Medium to long, spicy finish. Drink now. Tasted February 2009.

Ipsis Crianza 2005 Vins Padro, Tarragona, Cataluna 87 points Imported in Japan by Mottox Inc. Deep garnet-purple colour. Intense nose of warm raspberries and strawberries with a hint of earthiness. Some notes of forest floor and tobacco leaf. Good concentration, savoury / earthy flavours. Medium level of slightly grippy tannins, medium acidity and a medium to long finish. Drink now to 2012. Tasted February 2009.

Tasting Notes from Vega Sicilia Luncheon

2006 Pintia, Toro DO 91 points 100% Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo), aged 1 year in new oak (70% French, 30% American) Deep garnet colour. Spicy, ripe cherry, blackberry dark chocolate and pencil shavings. Very fruity. The palate is rich, concentrated, with a medium to high level of velvety tannins and medium acidity. Long finish with lingering flavours of cedar and vanilla. Drink now to 2019. Tasted March 2009.

2005 Alion, Ribera del Duero DO 93 points 100% Tempranillo Very deep garnet-black colour. Wonderfully intense dark cherry, plums, cinnamon tobacco and mocha aromas on the nose. The palate is concentrated and very well structured with fine, firm tannins and medium acidity. Still very young but approachable. Very long finish. Drink now to 2020. Tasted March 2009.

2004 Vega Sicilia Valbuena 5 Anos, Ribera del Duero 92 points 75% Tinto Fino, 25% Merlot & Malbec, released after 5 years aging, 3 in cask and 2 in bottle Very deep garnet-black colour. Complex, earthy, meaty nose with notes of warmed raspberries, fresh plums, milk chocolate and a hint of sweaty saddles. Medium to high acidity and medium to firm, slightly astringent tannins. Very long, layered finish. Drink now to 2020+. Tasted March 2009.

1999 Vega Sicilia Unico Reserva 97 points Released after 10 years aging in cask and bottle. Medium to deep garnet-brick colour. The nose is distinctly earthy with notes of loam, forest floor, leather and tobacco leaf complimenting intense fruit aromas of crushed cherries, raspberry compote and plums. The concentrated, full bodied palate reveals elegant crafting with a good intensity of dark berry fruit and savoury, meaty flavours supported by medium+ acidity and a medium level of silky tannins. Very long finish. Drink now to 2030+. Tasted March 2009.

eRobertParker.comSM is a service of eRobertParker, LLC Email: [email protected] Copyright © 2001-2010 - eRobertParker, LLC All rights reserved Portions Copyright © 2001-2010 - The Wine Advocate, Inc.

Except as otherwise expressly permitted under the Subscription Agreement or copyright law, no copying, redistribution, retransmission, publication or commercial exploitation of this material is permitted without the prior written consent of The Wine Advocate, Inc.

http://www.erobertparker.com/inasia/ia47.asp 3/10/2010