Report from Danish Group 10
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Sri Lanka Birdtrip – report from Danish group 10. - 27. February 2017 Map of Southern Sri Lanka with numbers indicating areas visited. 1. Kitulgala 2. Horton´s Plain and Nuwara Elyia 3. Surrey Bird sanctuary 4. Udawalawe National Park 5. Tissamarama area 6. Bundala National Park 7. Yala National Park 8. Sinharaja Forest Reserve 9. Mirissa Front-cover photo: Yellow-fronted Barbet, Sinharaja / Hans Back-cover photos: Peafowl, Bundala / Bodil Questions and comments about this report or travelling in Sri Lanka to Hans Christophersen – [email protected] 2 together was very good with good hotels (serving Foreword good food). When being in Sri Lanka, we could miss This year our birdinggroup (established long ago) some more information about the plan for the day, was heading for Sri Lanka. This was a new the birds and so on. This caused some frustration to destination for most of the group. Many of us have a start, but as we found out that we had to keep on been to India, but Sri Lanka is a place of its own asking about the plan and the birds, things worked with the combination of a very diverse landscape out better and better. Chandima also had many with mountains as well as the ocean, its own good contacts in the different areas. He also had a (mainly Buddhist) culture and a population that in deal with some boys in the Tissa area – he paid spite of tsunami and civil war is so positive and them if they have found special birds (for us owls friendly that you feel at home once you set foot on and nightjars) when he arrived. This is a good way this splendid island. Apart from this the island has of protecting species. Transport with our bus was some splendid birds, among others its own 34 very good, in some areas – national parks and endemic species – a number that will possibly rise others – transport was with jeeps. Here and in as more species are being split. other situations we brought walkie-talkies to be in contact in case of change of plans or a good bird, a Planning leopard or whatever. Not to forget Chandima Hans visited Sri Lanka and some of the birding areas chartered a whaling-boat just for us! one year prior to this trip. It seemed obvious, that on a two weeks trip you have to choose a few Our itinerary birding areas and not the whole island – not to be in a constant rush. Choosing the southern part of the island gives you the chance to visit mountain areas, rainforest, lowland, coasts, some of the main national parks and the possibility of a whaling trip in the end. And in this area you also have a very good chance of seeing all of the countrys endemic bird species. It is quite easy to travel independently alone or as a couple in Sri Lanka, but being twelwe people you have to work together with a local guide and transport. Hans and Chandima at Horton´s Plain / Christian Ferry-crossing, Kitulgala / Vagn Kitulgala Lying about three hours from Colombo Kitulgala is an area of rainforest and villages around the river Kelani and the spot where the film “River Kwai” was filmed in 1957. The area has quite a high density of birds and many endemics can be seen here. Among others the Serendip Scops Owl, which is probably easier to find here than in Sinharaja. Together with Sinharaja this area is the main birding-rainforest- As guide we found Chandima Jayaweera - site in the country. We stayed at the Plantation [email protected] / www.birdingsrilanka.com Hotel well situated at the river and within walking Chandima provided the group with a very good bus, distance of a suspention bridge crossing the river. skilled driver and one more helper to make things Apart from this river-crossings were often by a small work out. During the planning communication was “ferry” carrying a maximum of six people. The area smooth and quick and the itinerary we worked out is a popular area for wide-water-rafting as well. 3 Warbler and Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush are not difficult to find here – best before the entrance. Surrey Bird Sanctuary We passed this small patch of forest on the way from Nuwara Eliya towards the lowlands. A fine spot for a couple of hours for some rainforest birds. Udawalawe National Park This national park does not boast a long list of endemics but is anyway indeed worth a visit. It is a big open park bordering a big dammed lake and with many other wet areas, pools etc. The density The foundation for the “River-Kwai-bridge” / Hans of birds is very high with many storks/herons, birds of prey and many other species that is easier to see Nuwara Eliya and Horton´s Plain here than in other areas. The park has also many animals and is the place with most Elephants in the This is the highlands. Nuwara Eliya is a typical southern half of the country. Outside the park itself highland English town with many old colonial are fine areas for birding. We stayed at the Athinga buildings. Climate is cool and often wet. We stayed Hotel in a nearby village opposite to an Elephant at Leisure Village hotel a little outside the town orphanage. centre. The main birding spot in the town is the Victoria Park, which often contains som interesting birds, locals as well as migratory. We visited this site twice. Elephants and people in Udawalewe / Anton Tissa The whole area around the town Tissamaharama Horton´s Plain / Hans (daily spoken Tissa) consists of wetlands – so called Horton´s Plain one hour south of the town is a must tanks. Many of these have lots of birds, herons, see. Not just because of its special birds, but also waterhens etc. But in between there are wooded because of the whole impressive scenery. We are areas with for instance Owls and Woodpeckers. 2200 meter above sea-level. This highland plain is Tissa is also placed strategically between Bundala mainly undulating grassland with scattered wooded and Yala. While being in Tissa a good cultural option areas dropping a steep 900 meters down at World´s is to visit the temple area of Kataragama. Together End. The birdlife (and animallife) here is different to with Kandy these are the most important of such in many other places and the endemics Sri Lanka Bush the country. While visiting Tissa, Bundala and Yala we stayed at the majestic “Peacock Reach Hotel”. 4 yourself, if “you” find it! However this is a very beautifull park and the birdlife is rich as the landscape is very diverse with waterholes, lakes as well as coast. We had one whole day in the park – ideal! Sinharaja Forest Reserve This is the prime rainforest area in Sri Lanka and the biggest patch of forest left in the country. Any birding trip to Sri Lanka must include this forest, as many of the endemics are found here easier than elsewhere – the alternative being Kitulagala for several species. Birding around the entrance is good Bundala National Park / Hans for Sri Lanka Blue Magpie but to walk in the forest you are accompanied by local rangers. Several of Bundala National Park these are very clever on the birds in the area and were a great help! We spend three days birding the This is a great birding area bordering the coast forest and the surroundings staying at “Rock View southwest of Tissa. Few visiters especially Motel” some 20 minutes from the entrance. compared to Yala probably because there are fewer animals and no Leopards. But lots of birds. Of special interest are the salt-pans that host a lot of terns and waders, many of which migrating from Sibiria and elsewhere. We spent half a day here, but one full day would be better if all groups of waders should be scanned properly. Early morning in Sinharaja / Hans Mirissa The whalewatch town of Sri Lanka. After having mainly met other foreigners occasionally you suddenly are among other tourists staying on the Yala National Park / Hans coast. This place also has some splendid beaches. Many tour-companys go on whale-trips. Some you Yala National Park should avoid. They have boats that look like This is the most famous of the national Parks in Sri overfilled refugee-vessels. We had no problems as Lanka – and the most crowded. This is partly we were provided by our very own boat and crew. because the beauty of the landscape (which was Mirissawatersports can be recommended. By the flooded during the tsunami) but to a higher extent way the whaletrip is a great thing with Blue Whale, because it is not difficult to spot animals, the area Dolphins, Sea-turtle and Marlins. Birdlife there is - being perhaps the place in the whole world where it but not to a great extend, mainly terns – among is most easy to see Leopard – not that it is others Sooty and Bridled. We stayed right on the guaranteed. And you will not have the cat for beach in Paradise Club Hotel – isn´t that a name! 5 Weather Our group in Sri Lanka Weather as a whole was nice. Apart from Nuwara Eliya area where we had some rain and Susanne Boutrup temperatures ranging from 12 to 22 degrees most Christian Andersen Jensen days were dry and pleasantly warm, sometimes Bodil Lauridsen very warm. Nights 20-24 and daytimes mostly 28-32 John Nielsen Schmidt degrees. Anders Høybye Rasmussen Vagn Freundlich Anders Isaksen Anton Thøger Larsen Esben Sloth Andersen Kenneth Bach Christensen Hans Christophersen Søren Kristoffersen Litterature Nice weather in Kitulgala / Susanne The main birding guide for Sri Lanka is Birds of Sri Lanka (2012) from Helm Field Guides.