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towatch Text by AliaAkkmPortrisby Andrewkist ae acknowl- have Publications Network age edged the exciting future of bartending of future exciting the edged of the revealed this year,bar this revealed Cocktail the of f ae o te okal apprentices— Cocktail the of Tales of dreaming up. a night of partying manage to be up at up be to manage partying of night a their dynamic personalities as much as for revered becoming fast are tenders those dedicated guys and gals who after who gals and guys dedicated those pool talented extremely the to turned ne gi, o ti ya’ rse we roster year’s this for again, Once o te noaie iain te are they libations innovative the for y aig 0 iooit t Watch. to Mixologists 10 naming by For the past seven years, seven past the For The Sazerac Bar,The insidetheiconicRooseveltHotelinNewOrleans Sazerac The Bever The - - 10 is quite a task, but we are confident are we but task, a quite is 10 am, oue ad ed t jie lem - to ready and focused a.m., 7 ers’ Guild chapters and finding synergy finding and chapters Guild ers’ ons. Whittling down this group to only to group this down Whittling ons. derstands a bar’s greatest asset: the true the asset: greatest bar’s a derstands h fls o’l et n h following the on meet you’ll folks the hi rsetv Uie Sae Bartend- States United respective their to taketheindustrybystorm. with chefs in the kitchen, this crew un- crew this kitchen, the in chefs with sion for the craft, putting in hours with hours in putting craft, the for sion pages—photographed at The Roosevelt The at pages—photographed oe’ eeat aea Brae going Bar—are Sazerac elegant Hotel’s meaning ofhospitality. ■ hl te ca aot hi pas- their about chat they While

This page photographs courtesy of The Roosevelt Hotel and The Sazerac Bar David Delaney Jr. “No matter how many Negronis 1 worcester, massachusetts I have had in my life, it still intrigues me that such a simple, three-ingredient drink can taste While figuring out what to do with his degree anything but simple. It proves that in Computer Information Systems, a decade there is a true art in the harmonious ago David Delaney, Jr. became a barback. blending of ingredients.” But soon, it became clear making was in the cards—not technology. “I’ve al- ways needed an outlet for creativity, and the Customers need to know that they have bar became my blank canvas,” he reveals. been noticed and that their will Delaney, Jr. has worked for Worcester, be over to help them as soon as possible,” MA-based Niche Hospitality Group for six he explains. “Making drinks comes second years, helping open a number of different at my bar; making sure the customer has restaurant concepts. Now the BarSmarts an overall experience like no other truly alum and USBG Boston member is busy needs to be first. I try my absolute hardest at the group’s , cheese and chocolate to not say ‘no’ at my bar. We serve a lot bar, The Citizen, and full-fledged cocktail of rare and unique spirits, most of which lair, Still & Stir. Here, Delaney makes his people have not heard of, so when I’m ap- own rhubarb bitters; ages mezcal/Green proached and asked for a specific brand that Chartreuse/sweet vermouth cocktails in I don’t carry, it is imperative that I say ‘I’m new Kentucky bluegrass barrels; and de- sorry I don’t carry brand A, but if you like constructs falernum smoke. that, then you have to try brand B.’ Get Despite his innovative streak, Delaney the customer excited to try something new; Jr. is a stickler for hospitality. “Never under- gain their trust and they’ll be doing shots estimate the value of a smile or a quick nod. of Rittenhouse before you know it.”

tenders’ Guild Pittsburgh chapter, Maggie Meskey something she and fellow 2 have longed for: “That is a big indica- Pittsburgh, pennsylvania tor of the city’s evolution, and we are all overjoyed to be welcomed to the Maggie Meskey loves Skinos, the Greek Guild. In the past year, Pittsburgh has liqueur made from resin found on native had some great new chef-owned res- Mastic trees. “Skinos doesn’t taste like any- taurants open, and they are all show- thing else—it’s slightly sweet, earthy, piney ing a focus on creative cocktails.” and woody. The first time I smelled it I was Because of Salt of the Earth’s instantly reminded of waking up on a warm, diminutively-sized bar (“we only dewy morning after camping on a soft forest carry one vodka—Boyd & Blair— floor,” she reflects. For Meskey, who works which is an award-winning and behind the small cocktail bar (“virtually no locally produced potato vodka”) storage space whatsoever”) at Salt of the sometimes customers are chagrined Earth in Pittsburgh, PA, Skinos is just one to learn their favorite bottle is not offbeat ingredient she likes tinkering with in in stock. “A lot of people are used her cocktails. Vinegar is another, translating to ordering the same thing when “Gone are the days of 45 different to shrub concoctions in flavors of red berry they go out, and if we don’t have exactly vodkas sitting dusty on the backbar. and lavender-peach. “My approach to creat- what they want it can be a challenge to Instead, bartenders and chefs are ing cocktails is strongly influenced by what get them to try something new,” Meskey looking for ways to inspire and do is going on in the kitchen. We have access shares. “However, I’m passionate about something new.” to some of the best produce and ingredients, what I do, and am always confident that and there is a lot of dialogue between me I can make them something they’ll like. I and Kevin Sousa, the chef and owner.” want people to think about what they are the spirits and how much thought we put Currently, Meskey is most excited about drinking, and why they are drinking. It’s into creating these original cocktails.” the recent launch of the United States Bar- fun to tell them the stories behind some of mixologists

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Michael Saccone 3 Alexandria, virginia

Michael Saccone is lucky; he gets to work for Todd Thrasher, one of the country’s most prominent bartenders who com- pletely revolutionized the Alexandria, VA, drinking scene with his cocktail pro- grams at Eat Good Food Group establish- ments such as Restaurant Eve, PX and the Majestic. Saccone started his career at the casual Majestic, and is now in the midst of a decidedly different experience, work- ing under Thrasher’s guidance at the new Virtue Feed & Grain, where -infused “I fell into bartending like most cocktails strike a chord with guests. people: I started working at the Macchu Pisco’s D.C. competition for the “Working for Todd has been a great ex- Majestic after finishing college as “Centennial Macchu Pisco Sour” with perience; he has high expectations and will a break before going to law school the “Punjabi Sour,” his Indian-inspired push you on a daily basis to be better,” Sac- and fell in love.” concoction made with carrot juice and cone reflects. “It is nice being able to bounce housemade garam masala-coconut . ideas off of him, and he is always open to let- “I find that with pisco, people either love ting you try something new and different— Saccone’s inventive predilections it or have no idea what it is, so I love us- but he will also be the first one to tell you have paid off. Earlier this year, he ing a Pisco Sour as a way to introduce how bad it is if it doesn’t turn out well.” snagged Best Presentation Award in them,” he points out.

keep. I just gravitated to the heritage and plains. One of The Last Scofflaw events Fable Thomas Jeon lore of the craft. Standing behind that stick this spring even attracted Dale DeGroff. 4 decatur, Georgia cuts the romantic against my working class Now, Jeon has formed Gentlemen of roots to where it just fits.” Spirit with fellow bartender Eric Simp- Atlanta-based Jeon may be best kins. “Events and consulting are central After film school, Fable Jeon started tend- known for The Last Scofflaw, what he focuses moving forward. There are some ing bar as a means to support himself while deems “a transient experiment” in cock- early discussions about contributing to “struggling to make headway as a profes- tail parties. In the past he had dreamed a column for a local publication, which sional photographer. My binding obsessions up various concepts for a number of pri- could be a really enjoyable enterprise. with precision and detail, hard-earned and vate drinking socials, but “having thrown I’m keeping the crowd in Atlanta’s Old hard-won sentiment and storied narratives some considerable off-the-grid cocktail Fourth Ward from going thirsty on Fri- made me focus sharply on the unsung bar- functions in Atlanta, these Scofflaw par- day and Saturday nights, with slow-paced ties were a different cocktails and conversations during the way of wearing an week,” Jeon says. “I’m revisiting the fun- old hat. We de- damentals of what makes a sip from your livered ambitious, tried and true bar so much better than any elevated cocktails other swig from anywhere else. Crafting within the scope of the perfect cocktail, while perhaps struc- very specific envi- tured in technique, is contained by more ronments,” he ex- than just the glass.”

“Know that the side of the stick you’re on isn’t a platform for grandstanding; make the drink you were specifically asked for without the hard sell. Be a good barkeep, first and foremost.” mixologists

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Logan Lavachek “When I was in third grade, my Girl 5 Chicago, Illinois Scouts troop had Career Day. When asked what we wanted to be when we grew up I said I wanted to be a bartender, Graduating with a finance degree in the ‘like Sam on Cheers.’ I didn’t get the midst of an economic meltdown propelled greatest reaction.” Logan Lavachek to make a career change. She’s worked in bars ever since she was an 18-year-old food runner, so Lavachek’s As a former bartender enrichment next steps were clear: “Behind the bar is brand educator for Cointreau throughout cramped, but nowhere near as cramped as Chicago, Lavachek has a particularly keen an office cubicle.” perspective on the industry. “While a bar- Lavachek, who most recently did dou- tender should always keep their customer ble duty tending bar at two disparate Chi- in mind, this job required me to really cago hotspots, the restaurant Sepia and the think about my customer’s customer,” she clubby Double A, can now be found at the explains. “What are these bars trying to flashy ROOF, atop The Wit hotel, where accomplish and how can we help them do the classic martini, thanks to her dad’s love that? How can I share as much information of Tanqueray, remains her favorite drink. as possible about the brands they support “I’m a better bartender because I worked to give them the tools they need to make at two completely different places simulta- sure everyone who leaves that bar abso- neously,” she shares. “I found myself using lutely loved their cocktail experience?” ideas I’d come up with at one bar for the All this insight has helped Lavachek other the next week, or finding customers accelerate her own evolution as a bar- til you realize you don’t have to re-invent would follow me to either place to see what tender: “First you do everything the hard the wheel for every customer; that’s when I was doing that night.” way, each drink is its own challenge—un- the fun part comes in.”

more in keeping with the restaurant’s Justin Lane Briggs goals. My second was to develop a bar 6 Brooklyn, New york program that kept pace with the kitch- en. The menu changes so frequently be- cause local agriculture can change from Applewood opened on a sleepy residential week to week; from day to day, in fact. block of Brooklyn’s Park Slope neighbor- We often don’t even know what ingredi- hood back in 2004. At the time, Chef ents will arrive until a few hours before David Shea’s farm-to-table approach to service. When all I have is roots in the cooking was quite progressive. When winter, what do I do with, say, turnips? Justin Lane Briggs was hired, he realized A caramelized turnip-madeira reduction, while a solid bar program was in place, it paired with agave nectar and Tequila, didn’t engage “with the restaurant’s con- makes for an earthy, vegetal agave take cept the way it really could.” on the Old-Fashioned.” Briggs’ first move “upon grabbing And so infusions were introduced, the reigns was to ensure that everything along with homemade and bit- we poured, from wine to beer to spirits, ters (like the notorious smoked salmon was small-batch, local or sustainable— variety) to “float in and out of traditional and original recipes the same way ingre- dients were traded between fish, salad, I grew up on and around organic grill and pastry in Applewood’s mightily farms in Vermont, and as a child creative kitchen.” I was always obsessed with things The parings, then, are inevitably nat- like -making and figuring ural: “The same hands grew the rosemary out the recipe for a real Orange in my cocktail that grew the tarragon on Julius on my own. tonight’s lobster dish.” mixologists

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like Linger, TAG, Chloe and Root Down Mike Henderson serving up the more modern ‘market fresh 7 denver, colorado cocktails.’ All in all, the cocktail move- ment has changed the face of bar pro- Undoubtedly, Denver’s a beer city, but grams across this city for the better and since 2007, when the Colorado chapter of it’s still growing; I’m very proud of where the United States Bartenders’ Guild was we started and where we’ve gone.” first formed, the cocktail scene has made At Root Down, the growth of cu- great strides. “We’ve got a group of about linary cocktails is one of Henderson’s 20-30 professional bartenders all working favorite trends. “When putting a new very hard to put Denver on the cocktail menu together the first person I go talk map,” assures the Guild’s president, Mike to is our chef to see what he’s going to Henderson, who can be found behind be bringing in for the new season, what’s the stick at Root Down. “We have places abundant, and affordable, and what he’s like Steuben’s, The Bitter Bar and Colt & going to have extra of that I can utilize,” Gray all serving up ‘classically oriented Henderson shares. cocktails’ and at the same time places Henderson began his career in Mad- ison, WI, when as doorman at a bar he was called in to help the short-staffed crew inside make drinks, eventually be- “I think the future of our industry coming a regional brand ambassador for doesn’t necessarily lie with ‘mixologists’ St-Germain. His penchant, however, for but rather beverage professionals, who are equally educated on beer, wine, education remains: “Within the trade it’s coffee, tea and water.” probably the single most important aspect to keeping our industry going.”

my time over at Lantern’s has been the tonics and leave drinking Old-Fashioneds Katie Emmerson perfect balance. There we have a space and Negronis. It’s pretty spectacular.” 8 New York, New york to grow as young bartenders and develop our own ideas under the wing of Meaghan Dorman, our mother hen.” When she first started working at Raines Guiding both Emmerson’s bartend- Law Room in New York City, Katie Em- ing jobs is her passion for classic cocktails. merson was “an eager waitress who loved “There’s a reason these drinks have been Manhattans” and customers weren’t around for so long and they’re always a thrilled at the thought of switching out good jumping-off point. Trying a new their favorite cocktail for one more ad- rum? See how it holds up in a Daiquiri venturous. “Two years ago it was nearly and then go from there,” she says. The ap- impossible for me to convince someone peal of the classics is particularly strong to try something new,” she recalls. at a hotel bar like Lantern’s Keep where A lot has changed since then. For start- Emmerson says “it can be a challenge to ers, Emmerson sees customers “starting to get people to try something outside of pay attention to what they are drinking, their comfort zone. However, that’s what almost in a similar way to food.” She also makes it all the more rewarding when now spends her time holding court at the you can. People come in drinking vodka- bars of the esteemed Death & Co. and Lantern’s Keep, the intimate hideaway in the back of New York’s Iroquois Hotel. “One of the bartenders put a jigger “Both have been incredible learning ex- and an old bottle of Applejack filled periences. Death & Co. already has such with water in my hands and told me to a solid reputation so we are always push- start practicing pouring. From there I ing ourselves and each other to grow and fell down the rabbit hole.” make it even better,” she notes. “Splitting mixologists

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Ali Tahsini 9 San Francisco, California

Don’t misunderstand Ali Tahsini. He cer- tinkering with ingredients such as tar- tainly has a lot of fun making cocktails ragon, lavender and saffron in his cre- at the renowned Bourbon & Branch in ations. A predilection for the exotic is San Francisco, but the 13-year industry nothing new for Tahsini, who grew up vet would also like “to see the bartender surrounded by his family’s native Per- be put back behind the bar again.” As sian foods—dates, orange blossom wa- he explains, “With the cocktail renais- ter, pomegranate. Still, Tahsini has a sance we have witnessed over the years, reverence for classics such as the Old- I am seeing people enter the bartending Fashioned: “It’s simple yet dynamic, game with a focus on cocktails at the strong and straight to the point; it’s a expense of focusing on their guests. A cocktail with limitless class.” bar should be a place where one can enter and celebrate, leave their wor- ries behind and ultimately have a great “As a kid, my father owned a bar time, and the bartender is the facilitator named Chelsea in San Francisco, of this experience.” back in the ‘80s. The bar was kind of Along with his affinity for a prop- like my afterschool program: I played er dose of hospitality, Tahsini, as you pinball and Ms. Pac-Man, selected would expect of any Bourbon & Branch songs on the jukebox and learned how barkeep, is devoted to the craft of the to use the soda gun.” cocktail. Right now, for example, he’s

but difficult to master. It began with in- These classics, according to Thibo- Sean Thibodeaux gredients that were only available in New deaux, are the foundation of modern mix- 10 New Orleans, Louisiana Orleans and has pretty much kept its same ology. “As bartenders we’re all walking on form for at least 140 years,” notes the bar- the shoulders of giants. We look at what tender at Loa, inside the International people were stirring and shaking 150 years Sean Thibodeaux, like all good New Or- House Hotel. “When we find something ago and use it as a guideline,” he points leans bartenders, loves the Sazerac, the we like down here we don’t mess with it. out. That said, it doesn’t stop Thibodeaux first craft cocktail he ever made. “As the It’s a tradition and we honor that every from playing with Champagne–vinegar most debated cocktail, everyone has an time we make one. And by the way, I still gastriques, acid phosphates and mineral opinion and mine is that it’s easy to learn toss my glass to rinse it.” salts, or writing recipes built around sea- sonal, local culinary pairings. For example, he makes a gazpacho-inspired version of the Daiquiri using watermelon, jalapeno and cucumber. “When I’m bartending, it really is the smile on a guest’s face or turning some- one’s day around that inspires me to keep on making drinks night in and night out,” he shares. “This is the hospitality industry, and everyone who walks in is my guest, and I am their host.”

“As a hotel bartender you also double as a concierge; you are an ambassador to the city.” are where they now? Since 2005, The Beverage Network has Showcased 10 Mixologists to Watch. Here's a Look at What Some of our Past Honorees are up to.

by Alia Akkam

something simple, but just a bit differ- Duggan McDonnell ent, and never sacrifice on quality.” Mixologist to Watch 2006 Jackson Cannon Mixologist to Watch 2007 Jacques Bezuidenhout Mixologist to Watch 2007

By now a vast majority of consumers have come to the realization that Tequila isn’t just for frat boys. One of the people who have helped spread that gospel is Jacques Bezuidenhout, brand ambassador for Partida Tequila, whose efforts were recognized by snagging the 2011 award for Best American Brand Ambassador at Tales of the Cocktail. “The biggest challenge is the general misunderstanding of the entire category. Duggan McDonnell opened Cantina four If someone had a bad experience once on “The evolving and educated consumer has years ago in San Francisco, and imme- bad Tequila, they are suspect of trying it become the norm,” says Jackson Cannon, diately it was lauded for it’s á la minute again. Getting them to try premium 100% who helms the bar programs at Eastern drinks that boldly embraced Latin spirits, agave Tequila can be a challenge but once Standard and Island Creek Oyster Bar at including the bar’s signature cocktail: you do they see the light,” he explains. the Hotel Commonwealth in Boston and the Pisco Punch. At the time, he says, For Bezuidenhout, who also keeps makes his own lovely rose and amber ver- there was no known recipe for the drink, busy designing cocktail menus “with mouths when he’s not serving guests. “Five which “had been the classic and defining local appeal” as resident mixologist for years ago people might ask if you have a cocktail of San Francisco during the Bar- Kimpton Hotels & Resorts, a spike in Te- ‘martini menu’ to try to find a brand that bary Coast era. It was a huge success and quila interest reflects an expanding pal- they know, with industry types being the today, Pisco Punches are being slung at ate at the bar: “Today’s consumer is more only ones who would trust you on the first bars and restaurants throughout the city open to robust and interesting flavors.” encounter to help guide them to a house and across the country.” specialty. Now, even the average guest po- McDonnell, a fifth-generation bar- tentially will look over the cocktail menu, keep, was so enamored of pisco, that he and if nothing jumps out at them will be launched his own brand, the Peruvian- willing to say to the bartender, ‘I like this made Encanto de Campo, last year along or that flavor and I really need something with Walter Moore and dis- to help me cool off. What do you make tiller Carlos Romero. In its inaugural here that’s like that?” year, it already won the Best Pisco of When the Commonwealth opens its Peru award and the National Pisco Sour newest bar, The Hawthorne, later this fall, Championship in Lima. As McDonnell Cannon will really have his hands full. He’s shares, “My approach to creating the up for the challenge, however, of crafting brand and flavor of Campo de Encanto cocktails specific to each of his bars: “I make was the same as when I opened Canti- drink recipes hoping someone will enjoy na: surround myself with talent, create drinking that drink in a particular place.”