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THE BEVERAGE NETwork’s 2011 MIXOLOGIS10TS TO WATCH TEXT BY ALIA AKKAM PORTRAITS BY ANDREW KIST ypically, chefs can be found of the Cocktail revealed this year, bar- 7 a.m., focused and ready to juice lem- where they feel most at home: tenders are fast becoming revered for ons. Whittling down this group to only in the kitchen. Yet with their dynamic personalities as much as 10 is quite a task, but we are confident T the advent of the Food Net- for the innovative libations they are the folks you’ll meet on the following work, it seems they’ve managed to find dreaming up. pages—photographed at The Roosevelt as much time to stand in front of the For the past seven years, The Bever- Hotel’s elegant Sazerac Bar—are going camera as behind the stove. As a flood age Network Publications have acknowl- to take the industry by storm. of cookbooks and coveted restaurant edged the exciting future of bartending While they chat about their pas- reservations reveal, we are still in the by naming 10 Mixologists to Watch. sion for the craft, putting in hours with throes of the celebrity chef era. And, in Once again, for this year’s roster we their respective United States Bartend- recent years, it seems this golden touch turned to the extremely talented pool ers’ Guild chapters and finding synergy has rubbed off on bartenders, too. of Tales of the Cocktail apprentices— with chefs in the kitchen, this crew un- Behind the bar will always be a those dedicated guys and gals who after derstands a bar’s greatest asset: the true barkeep’s favorite perch, but as Tales a night of partying manage to be up at meaning of hospitality. ■ The Sazerac Bar, inside the iconic Roosevelt Hotel in New Orleans This page photographs courtesy of The Roosevelt Hotel and Sazerac Bar David Delaney Jr. “No matter how many Negronis 1 WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS I have had in my life, it still intrigues me that such a simple, three-ingredient drink can taste While figuring out what to do with his degree anything but simple. It proves that in Computer Information Systems, a decade there is a true art in the harmonious ago David Delaney, Jr. became a barback. blending of ingredients.” But soon, it became clear making cocktails was in the cards—not technology. “I’ve al- ways needed an outlet for creativity, and the Customers need to know that they have bar became my blank canvas,” he reveals. been noticed and that their bartender will Delaney, Jr. has worked for Worcester, be over to help them as soon as possible,” MA-based Niche Hospitality Group for six he explains. “Making drinks comes second years, helping open a number of different at my bar; making sure the customer has restaurant concepts. Now the BarSmarts an overall experience like no other truly alum and USBG Boston member is busy needs to be first. I try my absolute hardest at the group’s wine, cheese and chocolate to not say ‘no’ at my bar. We serve a lot bar, The Citizen, and full-fledged cocktail of rare and unique spirits, most of which lair, Still & Stir. Here, Delaney makes his people have not heard of, so when I’m ap- own rhubarb bitters; ages mezcal/Green proached and asked for a specific brand that Chartreuse/sweet vermouth cocktails in I don’t carry, it is imperative that I say ‘I’m new Kentucky bluegrass barrels; and de- sorry I don’t carry brand A, but if you like constructs falernum smoke. that, then you have to try brand B.’ Get Despite his innovative streak, Delaney the customer excited to try something new; Jr. is a stickler for hospitality. “Never under- gain their trust and they’ll be doing shots estimate the value of a smile or a quick nod. of Rittenhouse before you know it.” tenders’ Guild Pittsburgh chapter, Maggie Meskey something she and fellow bartenders 2 have longed for: “That is a big indica- PITTSBURGH, PENNSYLVANIA tor of the city’s evolution, and we are all overjoyed to be welcomed to the Maggie Meskey loves Skinos, the Greek Guild. In the past year, Pittsburgh has liqueur made from resin found on native had some great new chef-owned res- Mastic trees. “Skinos doesn’t taste like any- taurants open, and they are all show- thing else—it’s slightly sweet, earthy, piney ing a focus on creative cocktails.” and woody. The first time I smelled it I was Because of Salt of the Earth’s instantly reminded of waking up on a warm, diminutively-sized bar (“we only dewy morning after camping on a soft forest carry one vodka—Boyd & Blair— floor,” she reflects. For Meskey, who works which is an award-winning and behind the small cocktail bar (“virtually no locally produced potato vodka”) storage space whatsoever”) at Salt of the sometimes customers are chagrined Earth in Pittsburgh, PA, Skinos is just one to learn their favorite bottle is not offbeat ingredient she likes tinkering with in in stock. “A lot of people are used her cocktails. Vinegar is another, translating to ordering the same thing when “Gone are the days of 45 different to shrub concoctions in flavors of red berry they go out, and if we don’t have exactly vodkas sitting dusty on the backbar. and lavender-peach. “My approach to creat- what they want it can be a challenge to Instead, bartenders and chefs are ing cocktails is strongly influenced by what get them to try something new,” Meskey looking for ways to inspire and do is going on in the kitchen. We have access shares. “However, I’m passionate about something new.” to some of the best produce and ingredients, what I do, and am always confident that and there is a lot of dialogue between me I can make them something they’ll like. I and Kevin Sousa, the chef and owner.” want people to think about what they are the spirits and how much thought we put Currently, Meskey is most excited about drinking, and why they are drinking. It’s into creating these original cocktails.” the recent launch of the United States Bar- fun to tell them the stories behind some of MIXOLOGISTS 10 TO WATCH Michael Saccone 3 ALEXANDRIA, VIRGINIA Michael Saccone is lucky; he gets to work for Todd Thrasher, one of the country’s most prominent bartenders who com- pletely revolutionized the Alexandria, VA, drinking scene with his cocktail pro- grams at Eat Good Food Group establish- ments such as Restaurant Eve, PX and the Majestic. Saccone started his career at the casual Majestic, and is now in the midst of a decidedly different experience, work- ing under Thrasher’s guidance at the new Virtue Feed & Grain, where beer-infused “I fell into bartending like most cocktails strike a chord with guests. people: I started working at the Macchu Pisco’s D.C. competition for the “Working for Todd has been a great ex- Majestic after finishing college as “Centennial Macchu Pisco Sour” with perience; he has high expectations and will a break before going to law school the “Punjabi Sour,” his Indian-inspired push you on a daily basis to be better,” Sac- and fell in love.” concoction made with carrot juice and cone reflects. “It is nice being able to bounce housemade garam masala-coconut syrup. ideas off of him, and he is always open to let- “I find that with pisco, people either love ting you try something new and different— Saccone’s inventive predilections it or have no idea what it is, so I love us- but he will also be the first one to tell you have paid off. Earlier this year, he ing a Pisco Sour as a way to introduce how bad it is if it doesn’t turn out well.” snagged Best Presentation Award in them,” he points out. keep. I just gravitated to the heritage and plains. One of The Last Scofflaw events Fable Thomas Jeon lore of the craft. Standing behind that stick this spring even attracted Dale DeGroff. 4 DECATUR, GEORGIA cuts the romantic against my working class Now, Jeon has formed Gentlemen of roots to where it just fits.” Spirit with fellow bartender Eric Simp- Atlanta-based Jeon may be best kins. “Events and consulting are central After film school, Fable Jeon started tend- known for The Last Scofflaw, what he focuses moving forward. There are some ing bar as a means to support himself while deems “a transient experiment” in cock- early discussions about contributing to “struggling to make headway as a profes- tail parties. In the past he had dreamed a column for a local publication, which sional photographer. My binding obsessions up various concepts for a number of pri- could be a really enjoyable enterprise. with precision and detail, hard-earned and vate drinking socials, but “having thrown I’m keeping the crowd in Atlanta’s Old hard-won sentiment and storied narratives some considerable off-the-grid cocktail Fourth Ward from going thirsty on Fri- made me focus sharply on the unsung bar- functions in Atlanta, these Scofflaw par- day and Saturday nights, with slow-paced ties were a different cocktails and conversations during the way of wearing an week,” Jeon says. “I’m revisiting the fun- old hat. We de- damentals of what makes a sip from your livered ambitious, tried and true bar so much better than any elevated cocktails other swig from anywhere else. Crafting within the scope of the perfect cocktail, while perhaps struc- very specific envi- tured in technique, is contained by more ronments,” he ex- than just the glass.” “Know that the side of the stick you’re on isn’t a platform for grandstanding; make the drink you were specifically asked for without the hard sell.

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