T h e Bushwalker

Volume 30 Issue 4 Upper Geehi and Tarn Bluff, Kosciusko National Park Winter 2005 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club The Bushwalker ‘Where Am I’ Competition

Picture 9 Picture 11

Picture Picture 12

Each Issue has four photos taken picked out of a hat. So get your per issue, Mountain Equipment has somewhere in NSW in places where entries in as fast as possible! donated one $100 voucher and their bushwalkers go. These will NOT be You can also see these pictures on the allied store Trek & Travel has donated obscure places. Confederation web site, along with one $100 voucher per issue. You have to identify the place and descriptions and winners. Any financial member of an affiliated roughly where the photographer Bushwalking Club can enter. We may was standing for any ONE of the Entry requirements check with your Club membership pictures. (You do not have to iden- secretary, so make sure you are finan- Just saying something like ‘Blue Gum tify all four.) cial, so you must include the name of Forest’ would not be enough. How- Send your answers (up to four per your club with your entry. ever, something like ‘ issue) to the: The Editor’s decision is final. After all, from the start of the descent down [email protected] he took the photos. This does mean DuFaurs Buttress’ would qualify. In as quickly as possible. that some areas of NSW may not ap- short, provide enough information Usually, only one prize per person pear in the competition for a while. that someone else could navigate to will be awarded from each issue of My apologies to Clubs in those areas. that spot and take a close approxima- The Bushwalker. You can score in tion to the photo. Of course, if you successive issues. want to give a map name and grid Results from last issue reference, that would be fine too. Photo 5: Top of Slack Stairs, Wentworth Falls. Deadline for entries Identified by Michael Keats, Bush Club. The Editor may start allocating prizes Photo 6: ?? Identified by no-one yet. as and when qualifying entries arrive. The prizes? Photo 7: Mt Solitary from near Wentworth Falls. Identified by Colin Wood, Armidale. The competition remains open if Three companies well-known to us all Photo 8: Gooches Crater from N end. there are no correct entries for a pho- have donated cash vouchers redeem- Identified by Miss Robyn Hobson, Sutherland. to. If several really correct entries for able in their stores. The Paddy Pallin So you can still lodge entries for photos a photo arrive together, one will be group has donated two $50 vouchers 2 and 6.

2 | The Bushwalker Volume 30, Issue 4, Winter 2005 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

T h e Bushwalker From the editor’s desk. . . The Official Publication of the Confederation of Bushwalking Clubs NSW elcome to the third issue of the new colour version of The Volume 30, Issue 4, Winter 2005 Bushwalker, the magazine of the Confederation of Bushwalking ISSN 0313 2684 WClubs NSW. The last two issues have been well received, with several people making suggestions for improvements. The principle one was Editor: Roger Caffin that we should identify places mentioned in articles better - where IS the [email protected] Serpentine ? (Armidale, actually.) This will be done in future. Graphic Design: Barry Hanlon Apology: The article on the Serpentine River was written by Colin Wood, not the author given in the previous issue. My apologies to Colin for this silly Confederation Officers: mistake. President: Margaret Covi In this issue we have yet another development. The last two issues were put [email protected] Administration Officer: together by the Editor using InDesign, but while the results were pleasing, it [email protected] was clear to some that the editor was not an expert with InDesign. In fact, Barry Hanlon was moved to offer his assistance as an experienced graphics Website: www.bushwalking.org.au designer, and the layout of this issue is all his own work. I welcome Barry to the editorial team! Address all correspondence to: Now what we need is someone to help us with the advertising and PO Box 2090, GPO, 2001 marketing, both for this magazine and the nascent ‘Bush Pages’ on the web site. This magazine is expensive to produce and the colour advertisements help The Confederation of Bushwalking cover the costs. The web site also costs the Confederation money, and we have Clubs NSW Inc represents decided to have a commercial area under the heading ‘Bush Pages’ which can approximately 65 Clubs with a total carry relevant paid advertisements. But we need an experienced marketing membership of about 10,000 person to drive both of these areas. Enquiries please to bushwalkers. [email protected]. Formed in 1932, the Confederation We can’t produce this magazine without something to print. Clubs and provides a united voice on behalf of all members are encouraged to submit relevant articles, with a strong preference bushwalkers on conservation, access for those with good pictures. We will also accept articles from outside bodies and other issues. It runs training courses for members, where the articles seem relevant to members. Articles may be edited for length helps to provide a free wilderness and content to help fit into our page limit. Pictures should be sent at maximum search and rescue organisation, and resolution: 300 dpi preferred. Really long articles may not fit - sorry about helps runs bush navigation that. Contributions should be sent to [email protected] competitions. Please note that opinions expressed by authors do not always represent the People interested in joining a official opinions of the Confederation or any of the Clubs. The Editor’s bushwalking club may write to the opinions don’t represent anyone at all. Confederation Administration (below) Roger Caffin for a list of Clubs, but a more up-to- Editor date version can be found on the Con- federation website at www.bushwalking.org.au, broken up into areas.

Index Photo Competition 2 Pagoda Country 4 Venus Tor 5

Subscribe to The Bushwalker Culoul Pass 6 Keep up with all the news and developments happening in the NSW bushwalking scene for Chris Baxter steps down 7 only $10 per year. This is to cover posting and Nitmiluk National Park 8 handling: the magazine itself is free. Send your name and address and cheque or Search & Rescue 11 money order to Confederation of Bushwalking Map Sale 11 Clubs NSW, PO Box 2090, GPO Sydney 2001. Make the cheque or money order payable to Passes and Routes, Book Review 12 the Confederation as well. Day Walks in the Lower Grose, Book Review 13 Also please indicate if you are a member of a bushwalking club, and if not whether you Farewell Ray Tyson 14 would like a copy of the list of our clubs. Gear for Sale 14 You do have to be a member of one of our clubs to enter the ‘Where Am I’ Competition.

Volume 30, Issue 4, Winter 2005 The Bushwalker | 3 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Pagoda Country Michael Keats, The Bush Club

A Trip Report will normally identify the relevant area so the reader can do the walk. However, because this area includes some of the most fragile and ecologically sensitive areas of the Wollemi Wilderness, no Grid Reference readings are given. The route is perforce very precise and travel in the area without someone who has been there before is not recommended. - MK, RNC.

nchantment! A word pregnant crystals in a scene with anticipation - a word that reminiscent of an old Econjures in the mind a com- fashioned Christmas plete seduction of the faculties - a card. The external car word to transport the enchantee to thermometer regis- other worlds. Believe me, our leader tered 3 degrees Cel- took us there today. The weather sius, yet on alighting could not have been more perfect; a to greet the rest of clear blue sky, zero wind, and a tem- the crew it was not perature range that kept the body and unpleasant - just mind focused on the beauty around fresh. us while wanting to keep moving. It 09:00 Our leader was a day when all the superlatives had put away the pa- Holts Heaven that are used to describe great walks perwork, quizzed us were inadequate to describe the emo- on water supplies and we were off exploration track. There was plenty of tional pull that only nature can exert walking on Subsidence Row. The Row evidence that people moving through in Pagoda Country. gets its name from the unstable the area had not valued the intrinsic ut let me start at the beginning. ground caused by coal mining hun- worth of this special place. BAs we drove up to the meeting dreds of metres below. When the final From a high point of 1020m we point at Clarence the trees and road- support columns of coal are removed, dropped down a contour to a rock side herbage were dusted with ice the ceiling of the mine collapses onto outcrop for morning tea (09:50). The the floor under the weight view ahead was of Coopers Ridge, of rock above. The settling which we were to climb. Between us process can take years and and the crest of Coopers Ridge was a is often at different rates. 100m descent into the Bungleboori No problems for us on the Creek and then a 130m climb to the day. fire trail. Pagodas - lots of them, Perhaps 800m along flanked our ridge. Of more immediate the track the first pagodas interest was the route for our descent. came into view. Several There was a lot of sidling back and stunning examples to the forth as we negotiated successive cliff east are part of Pagoda lines down. Whilst we had one eye on Gully. Needless to say the the way forward all the time, the camera was soon out views made it hard to not stop and working and was rarely take it all in. out of my hands all day. e crossed the Bungleboori at On the western side the 10:30. Both the going down and views were equally com- W the climb up provided so many opportu- pelling. From the end of nities to stop and take in the pagoda the Row the route in was views from Coopers Ridge - and yes, all down into a dry creek bed enchanting ones. There was a real sense before an easy ascent up of anticlimax as the climb out ended at Snake Hill. On top the a fire trail. It was short-lived and in ten views were stunning - minutes we headed off down an un- what else! We intersected named ridge for yet more of nature's a disused road running extravaganzas in natural stone work. An east-west that probably early lunch was taken on a very fine Pagoda Land served as a coal mining pagoda indeed.

4 | The Bushwalker Volume 30, Issue 4, Winter 2005 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club pagoda restaurant with a view Athat was superb. To the east were the profiles of Anthill and Stick Venus Tor Ridges; to the south the complex and The following is the edited text of a proposal put to the Geographical intricate pagoda collection that filled Names Board by Brian Fox, who coincidentally was part of the team that the between the Anthill Ridge mapped the Katoomba and Mount Wilson Topo maps 1:25000. and Holts Heaven. Unnamed but He informs me that the proposal was officially accepted on 30 May 2003.-RNC equally deserving classic pagodas framed the eastern horizon. The Description of Feature: lunchtime tariff - free to all who are Location 260500E 6277800N MGA Co-ordinates, Lat 33deg 36.5min Long 150deg prepared to come and pay homage. 25min Isolated Sandstone Tor, 1.2 kilometres NE of Mount Hay and 400 metres SW of At this time we discovered that T was Boorong Crags. This Tor is approximately 40 metres above Mount Hay Range. The Tor today celebrating her birthday. No covers an area 240 metres by 100 metres and is located within the Blue Mountains cake! An offer of a candle from the National Park, near to Leura and Katoomba. [Shown ringed below - RNC] safety kit to celebrate met with the derision it deserved. T expressed her- self delighted with the setting for her celebration. Lunchtime was extended a bit for whatever reason, although the best as- pect was to have the time to spend just looking and trying to instruct one’s senses that this was about as good as it gets. There is no place quite like this and certainly no day quite as perfect. It was a somewhat reluctant group that set off at 12:15 to descend again into the Bungleboori Creek. This de- scent was marked by some slide sec- tions where those with well-upholstered bums did best. We all managed. At the bottom the Bungleboori was at its pho- Reason for choice of name: * Simplifies the name. tographic best - mirror smooth and a This Tor was named by Marie Beuzeville Byles * The word beacon and Tor are analogous, that fine reflected colour play. More photos. (1900-1979) and Marjorie Shaw as Venus Bea- is almost using two similar words to describe The walk/sidle along the south side of con Tor in 1935. These two remarkable women the same feature. the Bungleboori includes some swampy were members of the Sydney Bush Walkers * The word Tor is the correct geological name sword grass areas but also a succession Club. They both had walked extensively in this for this natural feature. of stunning views as you look up to the area. A walking pass in Shaw Gully down to References: the from Mount Hay Range has * Venus Beacon Tor shown on the map profiles of yet more pagodas. been named Byles Pass, both names commem- “Central Blue Mountains Kurrajong Heights to As we ascended yet another un- orating these women. Marie Byles’ other claims Mount Victoria Tract”. named spur, our leader revealed that to fame is that she was the first practicing fe- * “Northward of Western Railway only” com- we would shortly gaze on Holts Heav- male solicitor in and was well known piled by Myles Dunphy 1965. (Copy resides in en, arguably the finest collection of pa- as a conservationist. GNB files). godas in the Wollemi Wilderness. As we This remarkable landmark feature with exten- * Description of this feature by Myles Dunphy progressed up the spur the view that sive views to the east has yet to be officially “Central Blue Mountains Place Names” Section gave the name Holts Heaven began to named and yet 400m South East an insignifi- 3, sheet 28. (Copy resides in GNB files cant hill by comparison has been named Bathurst). display. It was hard not to keep press- Boorong Crags. * References to all Topographical features can ing the take button on the camera. My recommendation to name Venus Tor as op- be found in the book “Upper Blue Mountains Then we were there. Our leader led us posed to Venus Beacon Tor is because: Geographical Encyclopaedia” 2nd edition by onto a viewing platform with all the Brian Fox, Blue Moun- prerequisites for taking perfect pictures. tains Historian, Author and Cartographer. he enchantment of pagoda country Additional notes pro- Treached a new zenith. This group vided by Brian Fox: of walkers were especially privileged to Marie Beuzeville Byles see the afternoon sun light up the pago- (1900-1979) was a so- das with brilliant yellows, oranges and licitor, bushwalker and conservationist. The deep sepia. Those with hyperactive Blue Mountain Echo imaginations started to see all kinds of 14th February 1919 representations in the pagoda forma- records her name on tions. After a stay in pagoda heaven it the Mount Hay Trig was time to thread our way up the suc- Station, meaning that cessive crests of the ridge back to the she had walked to the fire trail and then the cars. 14:15 and Trig prior to February our visit was over. Venus Tor 1919.

Volume 30, Issue 4, Winter 2005 The Bushwalker | 5 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

himself and several with some of his con- temporaries is that Bob did not make up these names. He got them from other Culoul Pass? walkers or locals. So there are a couple of apparently quite old routes in the area. down the Colo from Canoe Creek. He used Many of the other unnamed routes Bob Where is it? it to get out of the river, not realising how lists on his map were explored by him and close he was to Colo Meroo. He subse- his friends, and you can tell which ones quently cleaned it up. It is believed to have these were by their nature. There are many been a horse track put in a very long time which were ‘created’ just for the fun, like his article was inspired by the book ago as part of early prospecting for a low Passes 15 and 16 around Canoe Creek for review of Briam Corlis’ book in this dam site on the Colo. (Wilf Hildur knew example. They are not the sort of thing you Tissue. To explain: Bob Buck showed him, and was responsible for the name.) would normally bother doing. Others were a ‘Culoul Pass’ on his famous map as Pass The T3 track from Mountain attempts on every spur which looked as 4, and Brian also lists this. However, Bob is now staked by the NPWS. I do not know though it would go, and Savage Pass 17 Buck’s notes say ‘Culoul Pass (original) its origin. It may even have been an aborig- opposite Canoe Creek is an obvious exam- Cannot find actual route’ and do not give a inal route. The final descent to the river is ple. Many of these ‘fun’ routes require rock precise location. Brian places the label in a down an unstable gully, and neither it nor climbing with ropes: Bob and his friends gully just south of Crawfords Look- were rock climbers. out, at about the same place as Bob o now we come back to ‘Culoul Buck’s note sits on his map, but says SPass’. Is it likely that the locals of it ‘Not used now as requires con- would have given this name to a siderable amount of climbing for first route which requires 150 metres of 150 m’. I assume this refers to a climbing? I think not. Is the loca- route up the gully. But is this ‘Culoul tion Bob gives necessarily accurate? Pass’? I doubt it: he didn’t know where the route was. I suspect all he knew ome background is in order was that there was a ‘Culoul Pass’ Sbefore going any further. out at the end of the Culoul Range. There are a few well-known I think he marked it a bit too far routes into the Colo, but none out. are what one might call ‘natural But we can add some more routes’. The area is just too hard thoughts here. It seems reasonable for that. I list them here. to me that the route would have The track down from Craw- been able to take horses or cattle fords Lookout relies on the old log- for it to get a name. That means the ging and farming road out along the whole line has to be of a reasonable Culoul Range. (John?) Crawford was grade. It also means that the cattle- a bushwalker many years ago. I do men had to be able cross the Colo not know whether this route was and go onwards - somewhere. This used by aborigines. It is not passable is possible, albeit with some diffi- to cattle. culty. So we need a route which is The Boorai Ridge track starts roughly at the end of Culoul Range as an old logging road off the Culoul but easy. Range road. It drops easily into Boo- I have walked up Boorai Creek rai Creek at one stage before reas- to the point where the current log- cending to the ridge. This road was ging road hits the bottom. It is gen- extended by the electricity commis- tle the whole way. Granted, there is sion out to the end of the ridge when lots of jungle in places, but jungle is they were investigating the possibility transitory and can be cleared - just send a herd of rough cattle down of a dam on the . Some of Colo River, Downstream from Boorai Ridge their gear was still there until quite there! From there it would be easy recently. From the end of the road there is the traverse half way down would be suit- to get to the top of Boorai Ridge, a track across a very narrow saddle and able for horses or cattle. either where the logging road runs down or further up the valley, or even further along a knife-edge ridge, then steeply down On the other hand, there is some evi- down in the vicinity of The Pulpit. In fact, the end face. I do not think it is passable to dence that men did ride across parts of the it is even possible that the logging road cattle, although I might be wrong. Wollemi Wilderness with cattle - cattle follows an old cattle track, but this is pure The current tourist track down Canoe duffing was the name of the game. Of conjecture: we would never know. Creek relies on the logging road from course, they were rather secretive about Is there any other evidence to support Grassy Hill to Alidade Hill. Bob Buck notes their routes: they didn’t want competition this idea? Opposite Boorai Ridge/Creek we this route in passing, but it would seem or interception. It is amazing to see what have ‘Barakee Pass’, another old named that when he was active in that area the they could get cattle up and down, both route. You could not get cattle up the route track may not have been all that good. It is here and in the Kanangra Boyd region. Bob Buck shows for this, but that simply not passable to cattle. ith that background, we must now means that Bob never found the proper The benched track called Bob Turn- Wconsider the names given by Bob route. ers was found by Bob Turner (who else) Buck to several Passes or routes. My under- Comments are welcome. near the end of a very early canoe trip standing from one conversation with Bob Roger Caffin

6 | The Bushwalker Volume 30, Issue 4, Winter 2005 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Editor. In June 2004 he was diagnosed with Chris Baxter non-Hodgkins lymphoma. He has now stopped work and sold his share in Wild to steps down from concentrate all his energy on fighting the life-threatening cancer. The winter issue of “Wild” magazine Wild, no 97, on sale mid-June, contains Chris Baxter’s farewell editorial. fter 24 years of hard work, Chris [Summarised from a message sent by Megan Hol- ABaxter OAM, founding Managing beck, the new Managing Editor of Wild.] Editor of Wild, says goodbye and thank you. Chris Baxter founded Wild Publications in 1981, believing it was the perfect time for Comment a publication devoted to adventure activities My wife and I met Chris in the 60s when in the Australian bush. After almost a quar- we were all mad-keen rock climbers, spend- ter of a century as Managing Editor of Wild, ing many weekends at Mt Rosea and Mt Australia’s wilderness adventure magazine, Arapiles in Victoria. He was the ‘father fig- and 27 years of sister magazine Rock, ure’ for a group of younger climbers in the Australia’s climbing magazine, it is clear Victorian Climbing Club, while we were in that he was right. Much has happened in the Melbourne University Mountaineering the Australian outdoors during this time — Club. Competition between our two groups Mt Everest had its first Australian ascent, was fierce, but Chris was always a stabilis- the Franklin River was saved and gear has ing influence. Since then we have stayed in been transformed from A-frames and Eidex touch in a random manner, and at times I to the lightweight equipment of today. Wild Chris Baxter have written articles and gear reviews for has reported on all this, as well as publish- Wild. ing hundreds of trip accounts, Track Notes, Award and Telecom & Victorian Govern- This news fills us with sadness, but we environmental updates and the latest ruck- ment Small Business Awards, and earned are sure he will run a good fight. I am sure sack-sports news, as part of its mission of Chris the Order of Australia Medal for his that all bushwalkers of NSW will join me in being the voice of Australian outdoors ad- contribution to the environment through wishing him every good fortune in the years venture activities. In the process the maga- publishing. to come. zine won many awards including the However, Wild No. 96, the autumn is- Australian Geographic Spirit of Adventure sue, was Chris’s last magazine as Managing Roger Caffin

WILLIS’S WALKABOUTS Bushwalking Overseas Arctic Patagonia South Arctic – Africa – Patagonia Africa Northern We handle the hassle. You handle the holiday. Australia No one else offers tours like ours. You walk and you carry a pack. You do not do any serious mountaineering. You also experience the local culture and enjoy the local food. You do some of the best walks that can be done in those areas. (There are too many to do them all on one trip. That’s one reason we’ve had repeat customers in all three areas.) Patagonia. Our Spanish speaking guides have led 13 trips since 1990. Russell leads the 15th anniversary trip in late November this year. Southern Africa. Russell’s first exploratory trip in 1999 has been Aurora over camp on the frozen Great Slave Lake followed by six others – he will be in South Africa when this ad appears. Arctic. Although we’ve only run two Arctic trips, Russell has been travelling to this region since 1971. The March 2006 trip will include 7-10 days on a dog sled with a local operator.

Cascada Pumalin, Patagonia ▲▲ No one else Cedarberg, South Africa 12 Carrington St Millner NT 0810 Email [email protected] www.bushwalkingholidays.com.au Fax 08 8985 2355

Phone 08 8985 2134

Volume 30, Issue 4, Winter 2005 The Bushwalker | 7 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Land of Nitmiluk National Park the Jawoyn

ix Watagan Wanderers left Katherine Thermal Pool Springs before track climbed much more steeply to the Sydney in the evening of the 8th walking the 3-kilometre trip back to the top of the escarpment. The heat and hu- SJune, arriving in Darwin just YHA. midity had increased as we walked. before midnight. By 01:30 hours the Sunday Morning we were up early and Away from the waterholes the track had next morning we had booked into our were taken to Katherine Gorge in the YHA become dry and the rocky ground re- accommodation at Darwin’s Central bus where we registered and paid our flected the heat back up at us. YHA with the humidity causing rivulets camping fees, boat crossing costs and a our kilometres on we came to our of perspiration to run down our bodies. $50.00 holding fee to walk the Jatbula Ffirst campsite at Biddlecombe Cas- trail. Originally the trail followed a four cades. We even had a drop toilet. After a Winter for the next ten days was gone wheel drive track down the river to a quick check of the cascades the decision and we were back into summer crossing before coming back along the was made to take our lunch down to the conditions. Next morning we picked up other bank. Because of wild buffalo we cascades and spend the afternoon there. a Rent-a-car and toured the sights of were not allowed to walk this section of We left our packs and headed for the wa- Darwin. These included Cullen the trail. The boat trip has cut off around 3 ter. We met five other people here who Marina and Loch, East Point Reserve kilometres from the start of this walk but were in two groups and we were to be- with its World War 2 gun nothing appears to be lost by shortening come good friends with them by the time emplacements, Fannie Bay Jail and the this section. We had to wait until 09:00 our walk finished. Biddlecombe Cascades World War 2 Oil Storage Tunnels. The hours for a boat to take us across the Kath- consisted of four large waterfalls sepa- evening finished off at the Mindil erine River at the Gorge. While waiting for rated by pools, small cascades and natu- markets and dinner on the beach the boat we watched the large group of ral spas. We spent the afternoon watching the sun set below the ocean. flying fox that had taken up residence in swimming and exploring the area and Next day (Friday) we were off to Litch- trees above the ticket kiosk for the boat both Graeme and myself got down to the field National Park where we spent the and canoe hire. bottom of the lower falls. Later that af- day viewing the magnetic termite mounds fter crossing the river, the trail fol- ternoon we headed back to the campsite and swimming at rock holes and water- Alowed 17 Mile Creek for a short dis- to set up and cook our evening meal. Our falls. That evening it was out to the Dar- tance before turning to follow the base of bus driver from the YHA had told us it win Wharf Precinct for dinner where 'Fish the escarpment. It is also a gentle incline would not rain and there were no prob- and Chips' means feeding the schools of to start the walk. 5.5 kilometres down the lems with mosquitoes or flies. As a result, Large Bat Fish and Barra with chips from trail we came to the Northern Rock Hole. three of us had ditched our tents in Kath- the wharf. These large fish rise to the sur- This reasonable sized waterhole is fed by a erine to lighten our load. So that evening face taking the offerings while illuminated spring waterfall. Although not running we three set up our sleeping bags while by large lights below the jetty. A spectacu- strongly, it still had a small flow coming the other three set up their inner tents. lar sight. over the falls. As we had been walking just As night descended on us that first eve- Saturday we drove out to the new Dar- over the hour it was timely for a rest and a ning so did the mosquitoes and they win railway station where at 10:15 AM we swim. Across the pool a green tree snake stayed with us all that night. caught the Ghan for our 300 kilometres 4 was on the rocks at the base of the water- Next morning we were up at 06:00 hour trip to Katherine. At Katherine we fall. Fish, which had been part of the sta- but did not manage to hit the trail until were picked up and taken to the YHA. The ple diet of the local Jarwoyn people, were 08:00. We packed and filled our water rest of that afternoon we spent at the plentiful in this pool. Leaving here the bottles where we crossed the river. This was a wet feet crossing so it was boots off for most of us. We were now on the escarpment and the track was reasonably level walking. A tree beside the track showed the scars where the Jarwoyn people had removed the bark to make either a shield or a carry tray. An hour down the track we came upon a series of rock pools and as we left these we found our first aboriginal art at a large rock outcrop. We had picked this outcrop as a likely location for an ancient art gallery as we approached it and were pleased to find out we were correct. fter 10 kilometres we came across Aanother waterhole and two of us, who had been lingering behind, decided on a swim to cool down before heading on. At the 13 kilometre mark on the GPS we arrived at our campsite on the river at Crystal Falls to find the others cooling off in the water. This was day two and we had again made camp by lunchtime. At Crystal Falls the river starts to drop over Cooling of at Edith Crossing a series of bars, rapids and small water-

8 | The Bushwalker Volume 30, Issue 4, Winter 2005 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club falls that increase in height until it reaches of the falls. Again we had the afternoon to never saw any buffalo, there were plenty the main falls that thunder into a canyon explore and swam and walked our way up of large scat pads along the track and off the escarpment. This distance is ap- the watercourse past several small water- wallows where the buffalo had stirred up proximately a kilometre long so it is a falls and rapids to a canyon section where the waterholes into mud pools. Naviga- large playground and a great place to ex- some of us decided to climb the narrow tion can be a problem as buffalo tracks plore. There was plenty of spring-fed wa- waterfall. The falls were covered in small continued along after the real walking ter coming down the river system. This frogs which had taken shelter in the cool track had turned off changing direction area, like Biddlecombe Cascades, is a para- walls of the small waterfall. There were and it would be easy to miss the markers dise with plenty of bird life and tree foli- hundreds of them. On top the land lev- and follow the wrong track. age supported by the watercourse. Once elled out with a pool reflecting the large t 18.5 kilometres we came to our again we were privileged to have a drop paperbarks on its edge. Back at camp, Acampsite for the night at Sandy toilet at this campsite. some of us worked our way down the cliff Camp Pool. This beautiful large pictur- ay three of our walk and most to the bottom of the waterfall and the esque pool had shade trees and a sandy Dcrossed the river before putting on large pool that it flowed from it. Pandanus beach on one side and waterlilies around boots. It was not possible to cross and Screw Palms edged this pool, which had the opposite side of the pool. Dropping keep dry boots. We passed the Crystal sandy banks and crystal clear water. The our packs we headed into the water to Falls waterfall taking our last view down others had sat at the top of the waterfall cool off. I swam across the pool to the the canyon before heading along the top and watched us. That evening we sat on water lilies and then climbed into the of the escarpment. Seven kilometres along the rocks at the top of the waterfall and fork of a tree that had fallen in from the the track we came to the Amphitheatre, a watched the dusk settle across the valley bank. I was about to dive back in and horseshoe depression in the side of the below as the stars appeared in the sky swim back when a crocodile surfaced escarpment. A set of stairs leads down overhead. The mosquitoes gave those of us around 15 metres out from me. I called through a crevice into this area. Entering without tents hell again that night. For the out to the others who thought I was jok- this area takes us back into the Aboriginal first time we did not have a toilet and the ing at first. I had only seen the top of its Dreamtime. Around the base of these flies were noticeably bad. head and estimated it to be a fresh water walls are examples of Jawoyn aboriginal ext morning (Day 4) we set out for crocodile around two metres long. I had rock art that go back thousands of years. NEdith River Crossing. After eight kilo- always been told that freshies were not Within the Amphitheatre there is also a metres we reached the Edith River which dangerous but I do admit to thinking rain forest and a permanent stream. It is we then followed for another two kilome- twice before I dived back into the water hard to believe that these pockets of para- tres to the crossing. After lunch and an- and swam back across the pool. We did dise exist in such a hot and dry landscape. other two swims we continued to follow see him again a short time later but then After 13.5 kilometres for that day we the river downstream. We had now en- he disappeared back into the waterlilies. arrived at 17 Mile Falls. We set up our tered the area where the water buffalo For some reason the rest of the afternoon camp on a sandy patch of beach at the top were very common and, although we was spent in the rapids above the pool.

Volume 30, Issue 4, Winter 2005 The Bushwalker | 9 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

This was our last evening on the track and we all spent it around a small open fire with our fellow walkers. ay five and we had a bus pickup ar- Dranged for 15:30 hours and 16 kilo- metres to walk. We set out at 07:20 hours and continued to walk parallel with the river down stream. The signs of buffalo continued but we still didn’t see any. Sec- tions of the track now passed through rocky areas for 10 kilometres until we re- turned to the river at a set of rapids. This was all that was needed for every one to enter the water and cool off. We were now a group of 11 people as we had teamed up with the other walkers on the track. Less than a kilometre downstream we came to Sweetwater Pool, which is another large deep pool similar to the one at Sandy Camp pool. Again every one was in the water. Day walkers are permitted to walk up along the track from Edith Falls to Sweetwater Pool so we could no longer Crystal Falls Gorge expect to have the track to ourselves. Three kilometres on we came to the Black Whip Snake that was rounded up pagne in the lounge of the Ghan while Long Pool in time for lunch and another and bagged by the Park Rangers. That eve- the men celebrated with soft drink and swim. Another two kilometres and we ning we had a farewell dinner with our juice. Back in Darwin we stored our gear came to Upper Edith Falls, which was full fellow walkers in Katherine. at the YHA and went down to the Darwin of people, and where the smell of cigarette riday 17th and we were booked to re- Wharf for dinner. At 01:30 the next smoke polluted the air. From here it was Fturn to Darwin on the Ghan that after- morning we boarded our aircraft to re- another kilometre to Edith Falls, our pick noon. The morning was free and some turn home. up point for our bus. While waiting for the went to Katherine Gorge while the others bus we enjoyed the drinks and food from went to the Low Level Bridge Reserve. Alwyn Simple the kiosk and were visited by a 2 metre That afternoon the women drank Cham- Watagan Wanderers

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10 | The Bushwalker Volume 30, Issue 4, Winter 2005 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club home from a hike through the bush near Heathcote on a Sunday. The re- Search and Rescue quest for assistance was received at 5 By J. H. Watson (Rover Ramblers Club) pm on Monday and at 4 am Tuesday eight members of Federated Clubs met at Railway Square to travel by from THE BUSHWALKER (1945) lorry to Heathcote. We ate and drank; meanwhile police and relatives of the ot once but on several occa- Thereafter chief interest was in the missing pair had arrived. sions in the past eight years speediest means of leaving the valley. After consultation police and rela- Nhas the phone rung about We continued upstream on the tives moved down the regular track teatime for members of the Search Sunday and about 8:30 am, beyond and Goondera Ridge. The lorry con- and Rescue Section of the Federation; Porcupine Creek, we met three bush- tinued along the highway to drop lifting the receiver, a familiar voice is men from Bilpin who had just de- walkers in pairs to descend Gooingal heard, “Hello! Paddy speaking. scended via Tomah Creek; they and Kangaroo Ridge and to cross There’s a party overdue: can you get informed us that the police were tak- Uloola Heights. Two of the parties out tomorrow?” In every such circum- ing the missing youths back to Black- converging at the junction of Goon- stance, the Section has been able to heath, and gave us notice of an easy dera Brook found a note to the effect furnish valuable assistance. way out along the spur between Hun- that the missing walkers had pro- The need for an efficient organisa- gerford and Porcupine Creeks. We ceeded downstream; hastening down- tion for search and rescue work was followed this route and after some stream, they found that the lost first realised in 1936 following the big bother with bushfires, reached the walkers had already been found by Grose River search. A party of four Bell Road at 1 pm and followed it to the police and relatives at Karloo Sydney hikers had set out over the Bilpin for lunch and a wash. Thor- Pool. Eight-Hour Weekend to journey down oughly refreshed we returned by car he activities of the Section com- the Grose from Blackheath to Rich- to Kurrajong for the train home. Tmenced to arouse considerable mond; by the following Friday grave The Search and Rescue section interest among the various clubs, fears were entertained for the safety then came into being and its first call which in some instances arranged of the missing youths, for whom to take the field came in January club exercises, using pigeons as mes- planes and land parties (led by po- 1938 when two hikers were reported sage carriers, and gathered some lice) were conducting a search. Fol- missing after their failure to return valuable data. In August 1938 an ex- lowing a meeting of various members tensive exercise was carried out in the of the walking clubs of the Federa- area between O’Hare’s Creek and tion, convened by Paddy Pallin, an Map Sale Princes Highway with about sixty offer was made of a search party to $2.00 (or less) searchers covering the allotted sec- enter the from Faulcon- tions - and finding the ‘lost party’. A bridge. Fund Raising for BWRS subsequent valuable exercise opera- tive from a base at North Springwood Some eleven walkers then caught any people and organisations have M taken full advantage of the Bush- also attracted much attention. the Mudgee Mail as far as Faulcon- walkers Wilderness Rescue Squad (BWRS) bridge, to move off at 12:30 am and map sale, to stock up on inexpensive ith the outbreak of war, walk- stop for the night at 2:40 am just maps. There are still about 3000 maps Wing activities were restricted left in this fund raising event. These are above the river. Up again at 5:30 am the normal 1:25,000 (plus a few and the Search and Rescue Section on the Saturday to descend to the 1:50,000) topographic maps used for (many of whose members were serv- Grose for breakfast and then move bushwalking. All maps are 1st and 2nd ing at home or abroad) was not upstream to find a cave marked with edition maps which most of us still use. called upon to assist the police in While, there are no 3rd edition maps the names of two of the missing lads. there are about 260 individual map titles, finding lost hikers. With the recent Nearing Linden Creek we heard the from around NSW; all good bushwalking improvement in the war situation and planes roaring up the valley and at- country. Visit the BWRS website to see a the resumption (despite travel restric- list of the map titles available & purchas- tracted their attention; they though ing details at www.bwrs.org.au/map tions) of walking in its various forms, that we were the missing party until sale. it has been considered opportune to we signalled to the contrary. We All maps are $2 each but the discount quicken interest in the activities of reached Wentworth Creek at midday for bulk buys of maps grows as you in- the Search and Rescue Section of the crease the size of your order in this run to find that the police had been out sale. Don’t miss out! Federation. through the same morning. As the BWRS is the Confederation volunteer Further valuable experience was afternoon wore on, lack of sleep on remote area wilderness search and res- gained in a recent exercise and it is cue squad. It is a member of the VRA the previous night began to exact its (NSW Volunteer Rescue Association Inc.) hoped that the support so readily ac- toll and we made camp at 5:30 pm as Proceeds from this fund raising sale will corded the Section by members of the another plane passed over. We lit a be used to purchase necessary equip- Federation will continue - and so en- smoky fire to attract attention and on ment. able it to operate efficiently should the return journey the plane dropped At this price, you could the call arise. Volunteers should reg- four paper bags to signify that the wallpaper a den with them ister with their Club representative, missing party had been located. (and daydream about future trips). or direct with Paddy Pallin.

Volume 30, Issue 4, Winter 2005 The Bushwalker | 11 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Book review I understand Brian has actually when I had the first colour edition of checked every one of the route descrip- this magazine printed. My pictures tions himself - I met him at the foot of were too dark as well. There are also a Colo River Big Pass one day when he was check- few typos here and there, including an Passes and Routes ing out the final one - Pass 20 I think. unfortunate misspelling of Wollangam- Bob Buck gave names to just a few be. One wonders how that one got Brian Corlis, 2005 passes - names he had learnt from oth- past the two proof readers who helped ISBN 0-646-44721-11 ers. Brian has added his names to ev- Brian! But, these things happen. Brian ery other Pass, usually based on acknowledges these problems in an any of us know the old Bob features or events encountered during included Errata. This is Brian’s very Buck sketch map of the Colo his explorations. ‘Wounded Knee Pass’ first go at publishing, and all things MRiver, with the passes does have a certain ring to it, but I do considered he has done a good job. shown rather roughly on it and the wonder about ‘Death Adder Pass', not ne has to ask whether this is a very brief notes at the bottom. Well, to mention ‘Snake Bite Pass’. Ocomplete listing of all Passes into this book is an update on that map, Brian has added a few extra Passes the Colo. The obvious answer is no: but in a different format. to the list. Thus for example Pass 11 is there are many which are not included The book itself is printed in large followed by Pass 11(a) and Pass 11(b). here. (12 pt?) font on rather heavy glossy A4 paper and bound with a plastic lay- flat binding. There are heavy clear plastic covers front and back. I think it was printed with a colour laser printer. Brian starts the book with a short introduction to the Colo River region and the standard access routes - Cu- loul, Canoe Creek, Bob Turner. He does add, very wisely in my opinion, that ‘It is recommended that people with little experience of rough and rugged terrain should not enter this country’. He goes on to describe a number of one and two days walks into the river via the Passes. These de- scriptions are not track notes (there aren’t any tracks for most of them any- how), just very brief outlines of the routes. Many of them include the Walking the Colo phrases ‘experienced walkers only, rope essential’. I know those routes, Staws Gully is listed, and he has added In addition the routes given are not and I endorse his comments. a route which bypasses the ‘impassable the only possible ones: I have used fter this the book lists the Passes 25 m waterfall’ in . (It slightly different routes for some of the Athemselves, but with far more de- isn’t impassable, but never mind.) On Passes. Some are quite different from tail than the notoriously brief notes the other hand, he has not included Bob Buck’s version, especially Canoe found at the foot of the Bob Buck map. the Wollangambe Passes as they don't Creek. The now-standard tourist track That said, these are not ‘track notes’: access the Colo. there is just a footnote to the descrip- you need to be able to read this coun- Finally, Brian has shown the Passes tion of a ‘steep scrambling’ Pass 13 on try for many of the more difficult as dotted lines on enlarged colour cop- Bob Buck's map, while Brian has omit- routes. Bob Buck simply noted in ies of the relevant topo maps - he man- ted that rather useless route and given places ‘rope handy’: this was a clear aged to get permission to reproduce the name Pass 13 to the tourist track. signal to those familiar with the area these from the CMA. There are 8 of But that is part of the fun of the area. that serious rock climbing was most them, covering most of the Passes. However, I will repeat Brian’s warn- likely involved! Brian does give more Included in the book are a number ing: this area is very rough, navigation detailed warnings of such hazards. of dramatic colour pictures of the Colo is very hard, and there are many dan- region. One could gerous cliffs and gullies. Go very care- architectural design + documentation wish for a slightly fully. lighter rendering Roger Caffin for those with the environment in mind of some of these pictures, but such The book is available direct from Brian Corlis for $35 including P&P. matters are rather You can order from Brian via email: tricky for a novice [email protected] publisher, as I or by snail mail at 35 Camellia Ave, www.redeighteendesign.com.au found out myself Glenmore Park, 2745.

12 | The Bushwalker Volume 30, Issue 4, Winter 2005 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Book Review Day Walks in the Lower Grose River and Tributaries (with particular reference to the Engineers Track)

Michael Keats, for The Bush Club ISBN 796-51099445

his guide book is probably the climbing involved, and first to focus on day walks in the much of the hard work is TLower Grose Wilderness, and off-track - through scrub certainly to the first to focus on The En- which at times can be a bit gineers Track. It is an A4 size with a thick, depending on the stiffish cover and black and white print- regrowth form the fires. ing inside. Ten walks are included as Navigation is required in the original track notes from The Bush many places. Experienced Club, They have been supplemented walking parties would have with pictures and maps. The maps are no trouble, but I would hes- scans from the Kurrajong and Spring- itate to recommend many wood topo maps and have the routes of the routes to novices. shown on them. Grid references and (Yes, I have been over all times have also been included from the the ground mentioned with actual trips. my own walking.) These are all day walks of a medium A major reason for the author's inter- eroded or damaged, but much of it can to tough grade. There is a fair bit of est in the area is The Engineers Track. still be walked, and the author has been This was a major involved in the creation of the Engi- engineering work neers Track Heritage Infrastructure done very early in Committee (ETHIC). (See The Bush- the history of Aus- walker vol 30/3 for more details of tralia, in 1858-59, ETHIC.) The committee's aim is to see by the Army Royal the Track restored as part of our heri- Engineers at a time tage, and so that walkers can enjoy it as when they were well. Many of the walks in this guide just starting to get have been along the Track, seeing what their own identity. state it is in and documenting it. When They ran a survey the full length of the Track from Yarra- track up the entire mundi to Darling Causeway has been length of the south restored I believe it will be a world- A self-contained mudbrick bank of the Grose class walk, on a par with the Overland bunkhouse for up to 12 River in the Blue Track. people, surrounded by the Mountains to see if he book is self-published. Frankly, the valley might be Wollemi Wilderness TI think a second version with some suited to a route serious editing, a smaller format (to fit over the moun- in my pack) and hopefully a few more tains. It wasn't, of walks along the length of the Track course, but it was a would be welcome in a few years. But huge undertaking in the meantime there is no other pub- in itself. When the lished way to find out about this area decision was taken and the Track, and the author is to be to run roads and highly commended. railways over the top of the moun- Available from the author at $15/copy +$1.70 P&P, tains, the Track cheque (to Keats Holdings Pty Ltd). money was forgotten. order (to same) or cash. ut the Track is Michael Keats Rylestone 33 Livingstone Avenue Bstill there! Pymble NSW 2073 Granted, in many Tel/Fax (02) 9144 2096 www.wildernessbunkhouse.com.au places it has been email [email protected]

Volume 30, Issue 4, Winter 2005 The Bushwalker | 13 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Farewell Ray Tyson Gear For Private Sale If you have more gear than you need Keith Maxwell, President BWRS. but don’t want to throw it out, try selling it through The Bushwalker. For n Monday 30th May, I attended Squad and his name became synony- club members selling excess gear the a special funeral. It was a full mous with rescue. Around this time cost of the advertisement is zero. ONSW Police Funeral for Mr Ray concerned citizens in some NSW country Descriptions should be short but com- Tyson. This funeral was special because towns sought to establish volunteer res- plete. No guarantees are offered by The of the calibre of the man being remem- cue squads. The State Emergency Ser- Bushwalker for any of the gear: that’s between the buyer and seller. bered. vices (SES) was yet to exist. NSW was Ray Tyson was a part of Sydney his- still in the era of ‘Civil Defence’. Sgt. Tatonka Bushwalker pack $100 ad1 tory who moved on to become part of Tyson was called upon to help train 2-compartment internal frame pack, about the fabric of NSW. Ray was one of the these volunteer rescue squads. Ray saw 70-80 litre, waterproof Cordura body, used founding Police Officers of the NSW Po- that some formal organisation of these a few times, in very good condition. Suit lice Rescue Squad. It is hard to believe volunteer rescue squads really was re- fairly big trips. that as late as World War II there was no quired to standardise training and pro- Trangia cooking pot 602515 $15 ad1 dedicated, skilled rescue squad for the vide a representative voice to the NSW 1.75 litre non-stick cooking pot, in original people of NSW. A rigger from the Syd- Government. packing, never used. RRP about $29.50. ney Harbour Bridge, Harry Ware, was n 1969 he played a major role in as- asked to join the NSW Police as the res- Isisting four country volunteer rescue Fairydown sleeping bag $200 ad1 cue officer for the NSW Police Cliff Res- squads (Albury, Dubbo, Parkes and Suit winter trips down to -20 C, good cue Squad. Wagga Wagga) to establish the NSW condition, high loft, centre 3/4 zip, hood, In 1943, Constable Ray Tyson was Volunteer Rescue Association (VRA). medium length. selected to train with Harry Ware in cliff Ray liaised with the NSW Police Com- Synthetic sleeping bag $50 ad1 rescue. In this far smaller Sydney city missioner to arrange for the first VRA Zip right around, opens into quilt. Suit car and less populous NSW Sgt. Harry Ware Annual Conference to be held in the camping or novice walker for warm and Constables Bill Fahey and Ray Ty- NSW Police Training Academy at conditions. son performed many rescues throughout Zetland. In May 1970 the Search and SCARPA “Lady Trek” Sydney, the Blue Mountains and be- Rescue Section of Federation (now Leather Boots $150 ad2 yond. known as Bushwalkers Wilderness Res- ‘The Gap’ at South Head became cue Squad - BWRS) joined the VRA. The Size 37, tread as new, stitching perfect, known as 'the suicide spot' for Sydney. VRA now represents 74 volunteer rescue only worn on approx. a dozen day walks - leather slightly sandstone scuffed. Body retrieval was real hero stuff. Many squads and is presently the second larg- memorable press photos were taken of est provider of primary rescue in NSW! SCARPA SL Mens Leather Boots $75 ad3 Ray as he descended the cliffs seated on In 1976 Ray retired from the NSW Size 45, heaps of tread, great condition, too the wooden plank of the boson's chair Police and was appointed the honorary small, bargain, no offers. (no safety harness around the body) Director of Training and Patron for the For items under ‘ad1’, ‘ad3' contact within the cumbersome cliff rescue ma- VRA. He shared his vast rescue experi- [email protected] chine. ence with VRA Squads all over NSW via For items under ‘ad2’ contact odern materials have made rescue his ‘TTT’ (Tyson's Terrific Tours). Ray's [email protected] Mequipment comparatively light TTTs continued for seventeen (17) years and compact. Far stronger nylon Ker- during which time he typically would The Bushwalker reserves the mantle rope has replaced the thicker, drive 70,000 or more kilometres per right to edit or refuse any advertise- ments. Commercial advertisements are heavier manilla rope that teams of Po- year as he helped nurture the VRA. not accepted. Send ads with contact licemen would hold. Modern climbing ‘Father’ was the nickname he acquired details to [email protected] ascenders (Jumars etc.) and descenders and answered to. The current VRA Di- (Whaletails, Racks etc.) were yet to be rector of Training, Harvey Black was invented so brute force was used to con- guided and nurtured by Ray to a stan- Subscribe to T trol ascent and descend of the boson's dard he could not have envisioned. It h e chair. More manilla ropes would control was my pleasure in the early days of Bushwalker the heavy three metre high ‘A’ frame of NavShield to introduce Ray Tyson each Keep up with all the news and devel- steel poles as it was made to lean out year to present the major awards. Ray opments happening in the NSW over the cliff so as to get the boson's remained a proud Patron of the VRA up bushwalking scene for only $10 per chair clear of the rock face. to his death. year. This is to cover posting and Police Rescue was not just cliff rescue he NSW Police Commissioner, Ken handling: the magazine itself is free. but included rescue of persons trapped TMoroney and the foundation Presi- Send your name and address and in motor vehicles, trains, industrial and dent of the VRA, Max Walters, both cheque or money order to Confed- domestic situations. On many occasions spoke with feeling at Ray’s funeral. eration of Bushwalking Clubs NSW, bushwalkers from the Search and Res- Traffic was halted outside the church for PO Box 2090, GPO Sydney 2001. cue group of the Federation (now Con- the guard of honour of Police and VRA Make the cheque or money order federation) of Bushwalking Clubs were personnel. Two VIP Police motor cy- payable to the Confederation as well. Please indicate which issue you called upon by Ray Tyson of the NSW clists lead the hearse. It was a privilege want your subscription to start Police Rescue Squad. to represent BWRS in this guard of hon- with. We don't want to duplicate In 1960 Sgt. Ray Tyson became Offi- our. copies you already have. cer in Charge of the NSW Police Rescue Ray TYSON OAM, ESM, KPFSM,

14 | The Bushwalker Volume 30, Issue 4, Winter 2005 Best Brands Best Range Best Advice Photo: MVP / Taryn Miller Taryn / Photo: MVP Cameron Barrie crossing the en route to Blue Lake.

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