The Secret to Heavenly Polenta

BR Wednesday, February 19, 2020 SunSentinel.com Sun Sentinel | 1

SOUTH FLORIDA FOOD

TERRENCE ANTONIO JAMES/CHICAGO TRIBUNE; SHANNON KINSELLA/FOOD STYLING Baked polenta with pork ragu is similar to a rustic lasagna with a layer of cheese, topped with a meat sauce. See recipe, 5. THE SECRET TO HEAVENLY POLENTA It’s the cornmeal itself, Basic polenta stone-ground for best flavor Prep: 5 minutes Cook: 45 minutes Makes: 6 servings A bowl of polenta is winter comfort food at its simplest By Domenica sliceable corn mush sold at and finest. Keep in mind that if you start with high-quality, Marchetti the supermarket. stone-ground cornmeal, you will end up with better-tasting Chicago Tribune It was a visit to Valle polenta. And be sure to give it the time it needs to cook to d’Aosta during Christmas properly develop that appealing sweet corn flavor. As someone who writes 2018 that changed my 6 cups water, plus more as ½ cup medium-ground about Italian food, I pride mind about this quintes- needed polenta myself in knowing, and sential cold weather com- understanding, Italian fort food. In Italy’s smallest 2 teaspoons fine salt, plus 3 tablespoons butter, ingredients. But when it region, tucked up in the more as needed melted and still hot comes to polenta, I’ve been northwest corner of the 1 cup finely ground polenta remiss. peninsula, polenta is not (cornmeal) I did not grow up eating just a pantry staple; it is a polenta; my Italian mother daily ritual, the way a dish Measure the water and 2 teaspoons salt into a medium did not care for it, even of pasta remains a daily heavy-bottomed, high-sided saucepan or Dutch oven; though hot polenta topped ritual for many people in bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the polenta in a with ragu is a popular southern Italy. In Aosta slow stream, stirring all the while to prevent lumps from winter dish in her native itself, a cozy alpine city forming. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low. region of Abruzzo. My own ringed with mountains, Cook, stirring often to prevent the polenta from sticking to interest in it as a cook was polenta is featured on the bottom of the pot, until the grains are fully cooked, halfhearted. How much every restaurant and oste- about 45 minutes. The polenta should be thick and creamy appeal, after all, could ria menu. Even the town’s but still pourable. If you find it is too thick toward the end there be in a bowl of mini Christmas market had of cooking, stir in a little more water. When the polenta is cooked cornmeal? Mostly, two polenta stands, both of done, taste and season with more salt if needed. Remove the word “polenta” con- which almost always had the pot from the heat; stir in butter. jured unappetizing images customers lined up, no BILL HOGAN/CHICAGO TRIBUNE Nutrition information per serving: 231 calories, 6 g fat, 4 of that vacuum-packed Pour in the polenta in a slow, steady stream, stirring all the g saturated fat, 15 mg cholesterol, 40 g carbohydrates, 0 g yellow sausage of solid, See POLENTA, 5 while. sugar, 4 g protein, 785 mg sodium, 3 g fiber

Molly Maguire’s Irish pub named after Maguire’s Hill 16 By Phillip Valys down in January 2017, Shoppes at Arts Avenue 16. Former owners Jim and cate the mood, the ambi- We wanted to pay homage another new Irish pub strip mall at 550 NW Sev- James Gregory aren’t in- ance and the friendliness, to it. We wanted to make Three years and two sharing its name is coming enth Ave. Here’s what volved with the pub. No which is what makes an sure the friendly atmos- months ago, the final foamy to Fort Lauderdale: Molly Molly Maguire’s will be: former employees are Irish pub great,” says phere was going to be pint of Guinness was Maguire’s Pub and Eatery, old-school, with warm affiliated, either. Not one of Campbell, also co-chair of carried on.” served, the last batch of slated to open this Septem- wood-paneled walls, Guin- Maguire’s Hill 16’s recipes, Fort Lauderdale’s annual Molly Maguire’s, which shepherd’s pie was eaten ber in the rising Sistrunk ness on draft, Celtic my- brass-bar seating booths or St. Patrick’s Day Parade. also shares its name with a and the bagpipes played a Boulevard area. thology glass art and a stained-glass pub lights has “Everyone knew Maguire’s. 19th century secret society mournful dirge in the dim At 3,240 square feet, the classic menu including been recycled. It was the closest you got to still active in Ireland, will dining room of a dying pub comes from co-owners shepherd’s pie. Only the name – a real Ireland pub, a place go under construction in Maguire’s Hill 16. James Campbell and Here’s what Molly Maguire’s – has been sal- for travelers to feel at home, late February, Campbell Although the Fort Lau- Arthur Duffy (yes, both Maguire’s won’t be: a rein- vaged. a piece of the old country derdale institution shut Irish), and will rise in the carnation of Maguire’s Hill “We just wanted to repli- far from the old country. See PUB, 5

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Restrictions apply. BR Wednesday, February 19, 2020 SunSentinel.com Sun Sentinel | 5E POLENTA Polenta al forno Continued from Page 1 with pork rib ragu matter the time of day or Prep: 30 minutes Cook: 2 hours, 45 minutes night. The offerings were various: polenta drizzled Makes: 6 to 8 servings with hot melted butter; Think of this baked polenta (“forno” means oven) as a CALLINGALL polenta “concia,” with lots rustic lasagna, sandwiched with a layer of cheese and of Fontina cheese stirred topped with a rich meat sauce. in; polenta topped with smoky grilled sausages; Ragu: 1 batch basic polenta, see recipe polenta with beef stew 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil called carbonnade. In the on Page 1 1 rack (3 pounds) meaty pork spare FOODIES four days my family and I 1 tablespoon ribs, cut into individual ribs spent there, we tasted softened butter them all, wrapping our Fine salt 4 ounces Asiago hands around warm bowls Freshly ground black pepper and feeling the heat of the fresco or Fontina, WHO porridge radiate within us 1 medium carrot, finely chopped shredded as we ate. All versions were 1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 tablespoons good; but really it was the freshly grated 1 cornmeal itself, made from rib celery, finely chopped Parmigiano- 1 clove garlic, lightly crushed Reggiano cheese, LIVEMUSIC local stone-ground field plus more for corn, golden in color and ½ cup dry red wine toasty in flavor, and cooked serving at length to bring out the 1 can (28 ounces) tomatoes, passed grain’s natural sweetness, through a food mill to remove seeds; that won me over. or 1 can (28 ounces) tomato puree Polenta is an ancient 1 bay leaf food in Italy, dating to the Etruscans. Early versions 1. In a large Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot, U.S.STONES were made from millet, rye heat the oil over medium heat. Season the ribs with salt and barley flour. It wasn’t and pepper. Add as many ribs as will fit into the pot until the 17th century, without crowding. Brown the ribs, about 4 minutes. Using March12, 2020 when field corn, a New tongs, turn them and brown the other side, 3 to 4 minutes World ingredient, was longer. Transfer to a plate; repeat with the remaining ribs. introduced to Europe, that polenta became a corn- 2. Add the carrot, onion, celery and garlic to the pot; stir to based dish. It has always coat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook until the been a humble dish, food vegetables are softened, about 7 minutes. Remove the ABSOLUTEQUEEN to fill the stomachs of the garlic. Raise the heat to medium-high and pour in the wine. poor; but like so much of Simmer, 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and bay leaf. Return Italy’s “cucina povera” the ribs to the pot, along with any juices from the plate. March20, 2020 (cooking of the poor), it is Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to maintain a low now appreciated for its simmer. Cover the pot and braise, stirring from time to flavor, its versatility and time, until the meat is tender, about 2 hours. Taste and add the way it lifts up other more salt and pepper, if needed. Uncover and cook until ingredients. There are the sauce has thickened, about 30 minutes more. many regional variations: 3. While the sauce is braising, cook the polenta according ALMOST ABBA in Lombardy and the to the basic polenta recipe. Veneto, a dish called “polenta e osei” pairs polenta 4. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Lightly butter a round or March28, 2020 with small roasted game rectangular ovenproof baking dish large enough to hold the birds. In Liguria, polenta, polenta. Spread half the polenta into the dish and sprinkle hearty winter vegetables the shredded cheese over it. Pour the remaining polenta on and beans are slowly top and spread it evenly over the cheese. Sprinkle the Mizner Park Amphitheater cooked down into a dense, Parmigiano cheese on top. Bake, uncovered, until the nourishing porridge. And polenta is firm and bubbly, 20 to 30 minutes. (If you would Boca Raton,FL in the Apennine Moun- like to brown the top more, briefly place the baking dish tains of Abruzzo, polenta is under the broiler.) poured out onto a large 5. To serve, cut the polenta into wedges or squares and wooden board called a place in shallow rimmed bowls. Spoon some ragu over “spianatoia,” topped with each portion and top with a couple of ribs and a sprinkle of sausages and ragu, and Parmigiano cheese. served as a communal Nutrition information per serving (for 8 servings): 608 dish. calories, 39 g fat, 14 g saturated fat, 112 mg cholesterol, 42 g Top it however you like; carbohydrates, 6 g sugar, 25 g protein, 1,034 mg sodium, 5 just be sure to start with g fiber good-quality cornmeal, preferably stone-ground. Stone-ground cornmeal retains the hull and germ thumb to achieve thick but old-fashioned method of of the grain, which gives it spoonable polenta. For me, stirring the cornmeal on a pleasing texture and corn polenta is most enjoyable the stovetop, so I can watch flavor when cooked. Many immediately after it’s as the mixture bubbles and recipes call for coarsely cooked, while it is still hot transforms, slowly, from a ground cornmeal when and pourable. Left to sit, it coarse slurry into a soft, making polenta, but you solidifies quickly, at which golden porridge. That can use coarse, medium or point it can be sliced and transformation is essential, fine. I like a mix of fine and fried, grilled or baked. as it removes any bitterness medium, which is what I Cooking polenta is often and unlocks the polenta’s had in Aosta. This combi- made out to be a chore for natural sweetness. On a nation produces polenta the modern cook — so cold night in the middle of that has some texture but much time, all that stirring. winter, it hardly seems a is still creamy. Polenta can Shortcuts have been de- chore. also be soft or sturdy, de- vised, from soaking the FEATURED pending on the liquid-to- grains overnight to baking Domenica Marchetti is the grain ratio, and when you the polenta in the oven. I author of seven Italian serve it. A 1-4 ratio (one sometimes use these short- cookbooks, including the part polenta to four parts cuts myself, but when I most recent, “Preserving GOURMET liquid) is a good rule of have the time I prefer the Italy.” FOOD TRUCKS AT EVERY CONCERT

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FORT LAUDERDALE CRA The new Molly Maguire’s Pub and Eatery will open this fall in the Shoppes at Arts Avenue plaza along Sistrunk Boulevard. PUB “Twenty years ago peo- piece of Europe to his pub. ple thought of Irish food as He’s planning to buy a BUYTICKETSHERE: Continued from Page 1 shepherd’s pie, or bacon British double-decker bus, and potatoes, but things which will connect Molly says. The restaurateur have modernized,” Camp- Maguire’s east to Fort Lau- plans to submit final design bell says. “We’re getting derdale’s New River. www.nostalgicmusic.net plans to the city next week artisanal cheeses made in “We’re going to be a and expects four months of farmhouses in Cork and destination bar like the old construction. County Kerry.” Maguire’s,” Campbell says. Last August Campbell’s Campbell, who runs “Irish travelers will come restaurant group, Florida sightseeing yacht and bus here. Tourists will come Irish Hospitality, filed for a tours for Fort Lauderdale here. That’s all you need for $500,000 loan from Fort tourists in his day job, says success. That and a pint of Lauderdale’s Community he wants to bring another Guinness.” Presented by: Redevelopment Agency for build-out costs, with a total budget of roughly $1.43 million. The city approved Judy Ferris, CPA the loan last September. 1200 N Federal Hwy – Suite 200 Boca Raton, FL 33432 Campbell says Molly Maguire’s won’t try to TAX PREPARATION BY CPA MAGAZINE copycat the other Maguire’s Individuals – Partnerships – Corporations menu, but it will add mod- • Business Start Ups • IRS Audit, Collections, ern flourishes, including • Buying or Selling a Home & Notices (State Notices) portobello mushroom • Out-of-state Tax Returns • Independent Insurance Agent – vegan burgers, wild Irish • Back Years Tax Returns Supplements & Other Medicare • Full Service Accounting Insurance Products quail with fingerling po- • Rental Real Estate • Public Notary tatoes and Bailey’s Irish Our Services Include – Cream mousse. Traditional Professional Service Warranty, which guarantees you the largest refunds Irish staples will include a possible with the lowest tax liability or our services are free. full Irish breakfast, blood Free personalized ﬁnancial and tax evaluation. Quality personal attention. We Make House Calls! pudding, and codfish and For a Free Consultation and Free Estimate Call chips. American comfort food will include hamburg- 954.601.4038 • 561.288.0487 ers, steaks and French fries.