greso,22 miles away,by a main boulevardwhich becomes highway 261. On the right,about 10 miles from the city center,a side road WINTERleads 4 mileseast to thearchaeologi- cal zone of Dzibilchaltfin. At the en- trance to the zone a small museum contains artifacts which offer the visitora clearpicture of everydaylife BIRDINGduring the pre-Columbianera. Less of the ruins have been deared and restored than in the better-known preserves.The principalfeatures are THE YUCATfitN IS INMAYAN the cenote, a limestone sinkhole that a peninsula that was a main source of water for the curves northward the ancient community,and the into the sea, as Templeof theSeven Dolls, at thefar though twisting endof a quarter-milesection of cob- away from MEXICOblestone Mayan road. Birders should to assert its inde- explorepaths that leadthrough the pendence.This fact scrubto theleft of thetemple. Con- of geographyis not Theruins are gmat, tinue down thesepaths until you surprising,for the the accommodations comeupon an abandonedsisal field Yucatfin carves out a at theend of thepark. From across a separateworld that first-rateand the low stonewall the loudrepetitious is bonded to a che-che-che-che-cheof a Mangrove unique history. Vireo maygreet you. Keepalert for As you journey birdingis spectacular the vocalizer, similar to a White- throughthe region, eyedVireo, but unlikelyto be con- ancient cities seem byJohn Alcock fusedwith it. Justpast the temple a to riseup, with tow- grassytrack leadsoff to the left. ering pyramidsand templesthat nent,while parrots, hummingbirds, Down it you may find a pepper- demonstratea mastery of engineer- toucans,and trogonsfly overhead.shrike or a Turquoise-browedMot- ingand mathematics. Here the intri- ,jacamars and Jabirus live mot. Don'tworry if youmiss them; cate hand-carved monuments are here,and sidetrips from the ruins you'llhave additional chances at Ux- morethan clues to an anthropologi-will takeyou to thousandsof flamin- mal and Chich•n Itzfi. cal story--theyare exquisiteworks gosbreeding near the coast. Backon highway261 heading of art inspiredby a religiousvision The Yucatfinis boundedby the north about a mile or two before of the cosmos. This is the land of Gulf of Mexico, the , and Progreso,the road to Yukalpet6n the Maya, an ancientcivilization by thefoothills of thecentral moun- takesoff to the left, throughman- that flourished between 200 and tainsof ,, and groves.Along it will be all the pos- 700 A.D. . The habitat zones include sible egrets and herons, some In the winter months, the Yu- sandybeaches, often backed by nar- shorebirds,probably a GreenKing- catfinis also a birder'sparadise. Dur- row stripsof palm trees,behind fisher, and overhead innumerable ing a two-weektrip around the which are lagoonsand mangrove MangroveSwallows. Go out to the peninsulaand into the neighboringswamps. Inland, there is arid scrub coasteast of Progresoand look in regionof Chiapas,birders should be woodlandgrowing on a baseof fos- the scrubbyvegetation just inland ableto spot200-300 speciesat the silized coral reef in the north, and from the beach for Yucatan Wrens archaeologicalruins and on con- dry scrubgradually moving toward and Mexican Sheartails. nectingroads. Because many humid, more luxuriantgrowth in During the winteryou can find inhabit areas in and around the the lowland in the south. about20,000 flamingos60 miles ruins,you can walk alongancient westof M•dda on the edgeof the pathsand explore some of thegreat- ENVIRONSOF MERIDA ParqueNatural del Flamenco.You estarchaeological finds on theconti- M6ridais connected to itsport, Pro- cansee some of thesegraceful crea-

1082 ßAmerican Birds, Winter 1990 turesfrom the bridge into Celestfin, whereboatmen will bevying eagerly to take visitors out for a closer look at flocksfeeding on theshores of the Celestfinestuary. Be awarethat at timesthe boatsapproach too near the birds and disturb them in at- temptsto makethem fly forphotog- raphers.The Nature Conservancy works with the Mexican Govern- mentat thisrefuge and at RioLagar- tos,where the flamingos breed. The Rufous-necked Wood-Rail is a local specialtyhere. Be sure to lookfor it.

CHICH•'NIT7Ji An inspiring Post-ClassicMayan ceremonialcity, Chichrn Itzfi lies on the road from M•rida to Cancun. Chich•n[tzfi is an elegantbirding place,and one of the best-knownof all theMayan ruins. In earlymorning you'll discover alongthe roadthat leadsfrom the backgate of thearchaeological zone to the hotelsa true birding"hot- spot".The observerisalmost sure to seesuch striking Mexican species as YucatanJay, White-fronted Parrot, CollaredAracari, Squirrel Cuckoo, The GroatPyramid on the groundsof the Mayanceromonial city of Chich•nItz• MaskedTityra, MelodiousBlack- is oneof the mostfamous ruins in the NewWorld. Not onlyis the city itself spectacular,but birdwatching in and aroundthe groundsis fantastic,especially ,and Yellow-throated Euphonia for the early birder.Photograph/Mexican Ministry of Tourism. in additionto variousmigrants from eastern North America. sacrificialofferings, which included UXMAL The grounds of Hacienda bothprisoners of warand semi-vol- Situated 60 miles south of M•rida, Chichrn, one of the hotels,offers its unteer teenagers).This northern Uxmalis another great Mayan mon- guestseven more highly concen- sectorof the park shouldprove umentthat attracts large numbers of tratedbirding. Although only a cou- productive.The openarea near the visitors.Although in generalthe ple of acresin extent,its flowering observatoriousually has a Gray- habitat and the birds are the same as treesand shrubs and its privacyen- crowned Yellowthroat. Around its those of Chich•n Itzfi, around its sure better looks at the birds than perimeter,numerous paths into the older section known as the "North- can be obtained on the road outside. scrubhave the advantageof being ern Zone", Uxmal has a section once Often Fork-tailed Emeralds, Buff- out of thescope of the averagevisi- clearedthat is coveredin grassy belliedand Cinnamonhumming- tor.Reconnoitering may add White- weeds,and a sprinklingof small birds can be found here. belliedWren, Spot-breasted Wren, thorn trees. The old road into the The touristbuses begin to dis- and FerruginousPygmy-Owl to ruins is now blocked at its far end gorgepassengers at Chich•n Itzfi at yourlist. andthus unused. It meetsthe high- about10 A.M. and mostleave by While at Chich•n Itzfi see the luz waya quartermile before the pres- 3:30 P.M. In the hours before the y sonido(light and sound)show entturn off to thepark. To theright bulk of the tourists arrive and after basedon Mayan mythology.It is alongthis lane, a fencemarks the they leave,explore the areaaway presentedunder the starsin the boundaryof the weedyarea; to the from the ballcourt and the cenote Plaza de Armas in front of the Great left is a dense scrub thicket. The set- sagrado(the sacredwell into whose Pyramidand heightensone's sense ting seemsdesigned for watching depthsthe Mayan priests threw their of continuitywith the past. birds,especially grosbeaks, buntings,

Volume 44, Number 5 ß 10• GETTINGAROUND THEY.IJ.C.ATAN In starkcontrast to the dizzy- ing mountainousheights of the rest of Mexico, the Yucatfin sprawlsout with resoluteflatness. This makes for easiertravel, both behind the wheel and on foot. Be- causemost of the regionis near sealevel, you don'thave to worry aboutfatigue from high altitudes. However,while severalmajor archaelogicalsites, such as Chichdn Itzfi and Uxmal, are well cleared and easily accessible, walkingcan be difficultthrough some of the less excavated rains nearthe jungle.Many of these ruggedsites offer top birding,so archaeologicalsites. it'sworth it to toughit out if you MayanHighways (Cobd): Sys- MERIDAAND ENVIRONS can. Prepare yourself with tem of sacbes,ancient wide roads, DImLCnALWN mosquitorepellent and sturdy for center of commerce. shoes. LOCAlION:10 miles north of M•rida Pyramidof the Descending on Rte 261. Then 4 miles east Driving is the bestway for God (CobcO:Tallest pyramid in down a marked side road. birdersto getaround. Most major northern Yucatfin at 138 feet. DATESOF STRUCIURES: 800 BC. Americancar rental agencies have Contains stone stelae carved to officesin Mdrida,including Avis, depictMayan stories. MAJORARCHAEOLOGICAL srrEs: Hertz, and National. Economy Templeof SevenDolls: Seven rentalscost about $250 per week, PALENQUE clay dolls were found during with somecompanies tacking on excavationof the temple.They LOCATION:95 miles s•outheast of Villa- mileagefees. Be sureto makear- wereprobably used in ceremonies rangementswell in advance,as hermosa. 325 miles from Mdrida. to ward off illness. cars,particularly those with air DATESOFSTRUC11JRES: 500 to 700 A.D. CenoteCommunity well conditioning,often sell out. Althoughtour busesgalore MAJORARCHAEOLOGICAL SI1T• CHICH leave M•rida for Uxmal for Templeof Inscription:Stairs LOCATION:Rte. 180 East, 75 miles Chich•n Itz& and from Cancfin to lead more than 70 feet down to from M•rida. Chich•nItzfi and Tulfim, they can royal tomb of Mayan leader be ruled out fo[ the birder. Buses, buried during seventhcentury DATESOFSTRUCTURES: Northern Zone: includinglocal transport, are apt A.D. beneathpyramid. Post 900 A.D. to be crowded, slow, uncomfort- Palace:Complex set of build- Southern Zone: 600 to 900 A.D. able,and difficult for peoplewho ingsand courtyards.Masterful MAJORARCHAEOLOGICAl. SlES: friezes. do not speakSpanish. Only from Templeof Kukulfin:Pyramid Villahermosato Palenquewould UXMAL with365 stepsfor days of theyear mostvisitors find them marginally and 18 terraces for the months in acceptable. LOCAtiON:Rte. 261, 60 miles south the Mayancalendar. Atop istem- of MOrida. ple to snakegoddess that creates AKUMAL,COBAAND TULOM DATESOF STRUCTURES: 600 to 900 A.D. opticalillusion two days a year. MAJORARCHAELOGICAL SITES: Groupof ThousandColumns: LOCATION:All 60-70 miles south- Courtyards,platforms and ter- Palaceof the Governor: 20,000 southwest of Canerin. raceswith carvingof warriors. Rte 307 south. hand-carvedstones in geometric Sacred Cenote: Enormous friezes. DATESOF S1RUCTURES: From 600 A.D. limestone well, sometimes used Pyramid of the Magician: for human sacrifices. MAJORARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES: Steepclimb to 3-roomsanctuary El Caracol:Spiral stairway to El Castillo(Tul•m): Temple to for stunningview. observatoryof ancientstar gazers. SnakeGoddess Kukulkan. Steep Nunnery Quadrangle:Four Nunnery: Named by Span- climb for view of Carribean. buildingswith large-scale mosaics. lards.You'll enter through mouth of stone monster.

1084- American Birds,Winter 1990 andsparrows. There should also be Black-headedand Grayishsaltators, PaintedBuntings, Olive and Green- backedsparrows, Blue-black and Yellow-facedgrassquits, and White- collaredSeedeaters. Also, here be on the lookout for Lesser Roadrunners.

Great Kiskadee, Social and Boat- % billed flycatchersare presentat Uxmal, as are Brown-crested and Dusky-cappedflycatchers. You're •e •lusive •-th•at• ß ger-Hemn (•soma mexi- almostguaranteed to seethe Tur- canurn] should • watched Dr quoisc-browcdMotmot, and you alo• veg•t• wate•ays a• may find the Blue-crowned.Look lag• edges.PhotograpW P. AMe•IREO. for Black-throated Bobwhites, and CaveSwallows and especiallyGray- throated Chats here. The bobwhites A.other bird that might be fou.d areusually found in an opencopse arou.d Chich•. Itzi is the cleared of underbrush inside the disjointed-lookingSquirrel Cuckoo (Piaya cayana]. Photograph/ front boundaryof the park. The G. Dremeaux/VIREO. swallows roost in the dark vaulted roomsof the buildingsaround the "NunsQuadrangle". They can be heardsqueaking inside and are usu- allyseen at duskhawking insects.

AKUMAL,TULOM, AND COBA Many vacationersat Cancdnmake a day-longexcursion 70 milessouth to the walled ruins of Tulfim, an im- 1 The jewel-liketa.agers are portantMayan center up to thetime YouImow you're iu the tropics amongthe highlightsof any bird- whe. there are touca.s arouud, ing experie.ce, a.d Red-legged of the conquest.It hasnow sur- a.d at Chich•u Itzi the Collared Ho.eycreepers(Cj,anerpes passedChich6n Itzft as the most Aracari [Pteroglossustorquatus] cyaneus]ca. be see. i. proper visitedsite. Although interesting ar- may be fou.d. Photograph/ forest habitat arou.d the Yucati.. chitecturally,the preservehas little J. Duuuing/VIREO. Photograph/J.Duuuiug/VIREO. for the birder. On theother hand, highway 307 from Cancfin has some attractive lo- cales.On theleft side of thehighway, a littlepast Puerto Morelos, is an ar- boretumthat provides a winter home formany North American migrants. They canbe seenalong a comfort- ableloop trail. Farther on, 65 miles fromCancfin, is Akumal, a smallpri- vatedevelopment with houses strung alonga narrowstrip betweenthe beachand mangroves. Akumal has a hotelas do twonearby similar devel- opments,Aventural and Chemuyil. Permission can be obtained from the Akumal hotel or from the real-estate Coastallyarouud the Yucatiu youmay e.cou.ter spectacular officeat thegate house, to walkthe flocksof Greater(America.) Flamingos (Phoenicopterus ruber]. roadthat runs alongside the swamp Photograph/M.R Kahl/VIREO.

Volume 44, Number 5 ß Anothergem of the tropical treetopsis the Golden-hooded (Masked) Tanager(Tangara larvata), widespreadin the low- land forests from southern Mexico to the Pacific coast of and Ecuador. Photo- graplVJ.Dunning/ViREO.

Thewalled, coastal ruins at Tulfimprovide a convenientswimming stopon yourbirding route. Photograph/Mexican Ministry of Tourism.

andends at a smalllagoon, which of- becausevery little of the park has ten hasa Bare-throatedTiger-Heron beencleared. The greatpyramid is at its coraledge. There snorkelerscleaned of treesonly on two sides. findmulticolored tropical fish in the Lookingout fromits top, reputedly crystal-clearwater. Noisy Plain Cha- the highestpoint in QuintanaRoo, chalacasgreet you on a beforebreak- one seestree-surrounded pyramids fasthike, while flocks of parrotsand in everydirection. a toucanor two fly overthe swamp. Twolakes adjoining the park have You havea goodchance of hearing Least Grebes and Olivaccous Cor- and seeinga BlackCatbird in the morants.Spotted Rails have recently bushes beside the road. You also can beenfound here but you'llneed lots enter the Lagoonfrom the main of patienceand goodluck to find highwayon a lanethrough govern- them.To the right of the entrance ment land. gateis a lesserpyramid and beyond Directlyacross from the road into thata ruinedtemple on theedge of a

Akumal,a rockytrack runs into the highbank that drops off precipitously The Crimson-collaredTanager scrub.Walk up it to findRed-billed to oneof the lakes.From the top of [Ramphocelussanquinolentusl Pigeons,White-winged and White- the rubble one can look into and over is widespreadin denselowland thetrees on the bank and have a good scrub from southeastern Mexico tippeddoves, Rose-throated Tan- to the Caribbean coast of ager,White-bellied Emerald and chanceof "pishing"up a mixedflock . Photograph/ Cinnamon hummingbirds, and of smallbirds in thecanopy. J. Dunning/ViREO. Blue Buntings.Violaceous Trogons areprobable. Continue on thistrail PALENQUE untilyou reach a partlycleared area. For birders,Palcnquc is a fabulous Hereyou will encountera cluster of place.In winter one can expectto three or four one-room houses with seewell in excessof 150species in a thatchedroofs supported on circular coupleof days.A third of these wallsof closelyset, uncaulked poles. could also be found in the arid Thisdesign is pre-Columbian in ori- northern regionof the Yucatftn. gin.Inside the families speak a May- Someof thesewill bemigrants from an language.The Spanishtaught in eastern North America. But 40% or The strikingScarlet-rumped Tan- schoolis used only with the "outside morewill be restrictedin rangeto ager [Ramphoceluspasserfrill world". the humid lowlands of eastern Mex- can be found in semiopen, cultivated areas or at the for- The ruins at Cobfi, 25 miles in- ico and . est edge.Photograph/ land from Tulfim, are inviting To reachPalcnque from M6rida J. Dunning/ViREO.

1086' American Birds, Winter 1990 oneoption is to fly to Villahermosa and drive the 90 miles to the ruins. AFEWTIPS The alternative is to drive the entire 325 miles distance. The road to Palenqueruns throughwetlands Favorableexchange rates hdp It is true that you shouldbe with excitingbirding possibilities. thedollar go a longway on the carefulabout tap water.Don't You can leaveChichdn Itz3, Uxmal, YucatAn,though not quire,so far drinkit. Applysimilar caution to in Cancdn'sglittering resort re• ice-cubesand roadside food pre- or Mdrida after lunch and make an gion,where modem developme.nt pared with vegetables and utensils overnightstop in Campeche(120 demandsits price. Howeveri most that mayhave been washed with miles from M•rida). BeyondEs- birderswill choose to startout in impurewater. If you cannotbuy c3rcegathe watery ditches that bor- Mdrida,the largest ofthe South• botdedwater, purify rap water der the road for miles and miles emrides, and capital of the yourselfby boiling or with iodine, cat•n state.Here, only the most yod•,purchased atthe farmacia. supportan amazinglyrich comple- expensivemeals would total $50 Thereare no mandatoryim- ment of bird life. There will be a for twopeople. More ofte n you munizationsrequired for travel- Snail Kite on nearly every fence willspend doser to $25,while ingin Mexico.However, some post,many night-herons, Amazon ral dinners run from $10 to $15 physiciansrecommend vaccina- and Ringed kingfishers,Crested fora couple. tionsagainst typhoid, hepatitis, Caracaras,Fork-tailed Flycatchers, Luxuryhotels in Mdridarange and diphteria.For moreinfor- from $55 to $85 per nightfor mation, call the.Centerfor Dis- jacanas,Limpkins, Least and Pied- doublerooms. In smallerlocales, easeControl in Atlanta,Georgia billedgrebes, and as the piece de re- comfortable and moderate first- at 404-639-2572. sistancea Jabiru, Black-collared classdouble rooms can be had for Hawk or Pinnated Bittern. Also this $30to $50,and spartan budget Don'texpect tacos and chili in- is oftenthe bestplace to seeAplo- lodgingsfor less than $2'0. the YucatAn. Even the food di- mado Falcons. Since the road Thereare direct flights from Miami to M&ida on AeroMexico vergesfrom the Mexicanstan- stretchesflat and straightfor miles (800-237-6639) and Mexicana dards.Be sureto try the local and haslittle traffic,you neednot Airlines (800-237-6639) which favorites:;ochinita pibil, pork arepriced'at approximately $170 robedin bananaleaves, panuchos, hesitateto pull over,stop, and ad- open-facexttortilla with pickled mireyour favorites close-up and for roundtrip. These aklines also of- fe• connecting.flights to M•rida chickenand onions; and/• 5odzuL asmuch time as you choose. tortillaswith eggs. 'Coffee usually andVillahermo sa from Mexico comeswith the meal or aqer it, so An alternate,100 mileslonger, Cityand•C•c•. FromCancfin runsvia Campeche, Ciudad del Car- to,:M&ida,.a roundtrip ticketis if youwant a shotof caheinebe- men, and Villahermosa with an about$95; from Mexico Ci•ty to fbreyou start on yourmorning huevos, you'll have to ask. In overnightstop in Carmen.Take the M•rida, about $215 and from M•rida to Villahermosa,$110. restaurants,tipping is customary ferry from Carmen in the morn- at 10'to15 percent. ing. BetweenCarmen and Villaher- 'Liquoris likely to beexpensive mosathere will certainlybe Ospreys, To enterMexico, you'll need a because.much of it is imported, Great and Common black-hawks, touristcard. To obtainone, you'll andwine making is. generally not have toshowproof of citizenship a Mexicanfort& However, the lo- Roadsideand Black-collaredhawks, at theborder or (beforeyour trip) cal beer-is to-'be' pdzed. Carta SnailKites, and Bat and Laughing at a Mexican Consu'ateoffice or CLam,Montejo and LeonNegro, falcons.This is a line-up sureto Mexico Tourism offices in the are excellent. pleaseevery raptor fancier. United States.For information, I or Yucatln offsine in a casual The archaeologicalzone of Pal- contact the Mexican Consulate at atmosphere,try Los Almendros, one ofits 40 officesin the United in M&ida at Calle59 No. 434, or enqueis situatedabout one-third of States;or call the Mexican Em- fora moreupscale experience, Le theway up a woodedhillside, about bass)5the ConsularSection, in Gourmet, Which is a converted five miles outside of town. The Washington,D]Cl at 202-293- mansionwith a pianobar:. Ponce clearedarea with its templescovers 1710. Perez 109 27-1970. about 20 acres. Rememberthat Palenque isproba- roadsides. Be aware that Northern makethe job considerablyeasier. blythe best birding site in Mexicoin BentNilsand Dusky Antbirds can be The roadgoes to the ruinsand winter. It's a placebirders should foundhere and you'll be wiseto fa- has forest on one side for awhile planto spenda gooddeal of rime. miliarizeyoursdfwith their calls and and then forest on both sides. Bird Whateveryou do, DON'T neglect shortnotes for even thoughthis isthe alongboth sides. While birdingthe the vocalizationscoming from the bestplace to findthem, knowledge of cleared areas around the main build- birdsdeep in the bushesalong the their habitats and behaviors will ingsof theruins and along the edge

Volume 44, Number 5 ß 108•' high.When in bloom,it is covered with massesof largeorange blos- soms. Next to the museum is a groupwhich attracts dozens of hum- The HaciendaUxmal (99-24- mingbirds.A half-dozenspecies may TheHoliday Inn (in the U.S.: 7142) hasearned a loyalfollow- bepresent at onetime, including the 800-465-4329) in M•rida is a ingwith its colonial atmosphere, deluxecolonial-style hotel with gardens,pool, and testatwants. If exquisiteViolet Sabrewing,the an international clientele and all you'rewithout a reservation,ar- commonly-occurringRufous-tailed the conveniencesyou could de- riveby 1 p.m.Doubles cost about Mango, and the Green-breasted sire,Fine dining, a pool,and ten- $55.The'New Wdla Arqueol•qica Mango.Specialties here are White- hiscourts create a sleeksetting for (in U.S.: 800-258-2633) is a bellied Emerald and, of course, about$85 9 night.El"Castellano Club Med creation, complete everyonehopes to seea Purple- (99-23-0100)isa large,first class with a pool,tennis courts, and a hotelwith a hacienda-stylelobby, Frenchrestaurant. Rates range crownedFairy. restaurant,bar and pool Rates are from$60 and up. The Midgn Inn In front of the hotel nearest the about•55 a night.A simpler,but Umna/(992-23-9500) offers50 rainsis anothergroup of "tulipanes" charminga•tetnative isthe Hotel modern rooms with amenities; completewith hummingbirds. In the C01gn(99-23-4355), about $25, $50per night. morningor lateafternoon the trees Afteryou see the flamingos atCe- lestun,you'll find the Hotel Guier- andbushes along the road should be searchedfor -flycatchers,Mon- fez, a modestsea-front hotel that The first classChan I•h hotd tezuma and Chestnut-headed also servesfine, inexpensive (934.5-031810014)is nesdedin seafood,ab0.ut $10 per night the tropics,complete with a oropendolas,Barred and Greatant- stream-fedpool and fan-cooled shrikes, Buff-throated Saltator, and TheHacienda Chlchln (99-24- cottages;about $45 for a doubl:•. Olive-backed and Yellow-throated 8722), formedya haciendadur- Natutun V/va, (934.5-0100) is'an euphonias.Crimson-collared and ing the lastcentur35 ksa modest moremodest alternative offering Scarlet-rumpedtanagers can be and reasonablehotel with a res- comfortable rooms a restaurant, bar,and crafts shop, gardens, and foundalong here also. tatwant,bar, pool, and excellent One of the bestplaces to bird is gardensfor birdwatching,all at a disc0G$25 per night. theedge of theruins. Ceiling fins the trail behindthe Templeof the whirl above, Doubles cost about Inscriptions.Facing the templein $50. The Mayaland(99-24- the openplaza this trail startsnear 8722),somewhat of a luxmT ho- In Cob5you'll find. only one the left rearcorner of the Temple. tel, spreadsout with large, hotelat theruins, the Villa54rque- The trailgoes immediately into the old-fashionedrooms, lush gar- olgqica;which is setin themidst dens,and a pool.Also near the of the jungle.This Club Med rainforestand seemsto go on for- ever. Great birds can be found all ancientcity• its rooms mn about outpost,offers a goodrestaurant, $50. The DeloresAlba (99•21- pool,and tennisfor thosewho alongit includingfour speciesof 3745),a bii furtherfrom the ru- ::want to he near. the unexcavated trogons,woodcreepers, and Night- ins is a less-luxurious but ruins.This spot is about 26 miles ingaleWren. Working this trail for a charmingcountry. house with 18 fromTulfim. In Akumalanother coupleof hoursin theearly morning rooms,each with a privateter- lovely hogell,is Club Akumal race,You'll find a diningroom Caribe(U.S.: 800-351-1622), a shouldalso yield Litde Tinamou, andpool, though only some air deluxeresort with a finerestau- Tody , Black-facedAnt- conditioningfor about $15. :rant; :about $80 per night wren, Golden-oliveWoodpecker, and Lowland Wood-Wren. of the forest,many of the birdsvo- to the plain below.From here you We havementioned only a fewof calizingwill onlybe heard. You will canwatch swifts swooping at eye- themany birds that can be foundin have to go into the rainforestto level.This is also an excellent vantage theYucatfin on a birdingholiday. Do glimpsethem. fromwl•ich to observesmall foragers yourhomework before going. Take a The mainperiods of birdactivity suchas the Red-legged Honeycreeper good field guide. Learn the vocaliza- alongthe edgesof the forestare in andthe gorgeous Masked Tanager. tions.You'll return home having had the early morning and evening. In Januarypart of the gloryof a terrifictime seeing new birds and During the day you'll haveto go Palenquefor birdersis its "hum- havinggained a first-handknowl- into the forest interior. mingbirdtrees •. Spathodeacampan- edgeof the extraordinaryachieve- From a low mound behind the ulata,locally called "tulipan", is a mentsof theancient Mayans. ß favorite ornamental tree in southern parksmuseum you'll have a "win- -Route 1, Box 124 dow"through the treeslooking out Mexico and is usually20-25 feet Marshall, VA 22115

American Birds, Winter 1990