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Winter Birding in Mayan Mexico

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Winter Birding in Mayan Mexico greso,22 miles away,by a main boulevardwhich becomes highway 261. On the right,about 10 miles from the city center,a side road WINTERleads 4 mileseast to thearchaeologi- cal zone of Dzibilchaltfin. At the en- trance to the zone a small museum contains artifacts which offer the visitora clearpicture of everydaylife BIRDINGduring the pre-Columbianera. Less of the ruins have been deared and restored than in the better-known preserves.The principalfeatures are THE YUCATfitN IS INMAYAN the cenote, a limestone sinkhole that a peninsula that was a main source of water for the curves northward the ancient community,and the into the sea, as Templeof theSeven Dolls, at thefar though twisting endof a quarter-milesection of cob- away from Mexico MEXICOblestone Mayan road. Birders should to assert its inde- explorepaths that leadthrough the pendence.This fact scrubto theleft of thetemple. Con- of geographyis not Theruins are gmat, tinue down thesepaths until you surprising,for the the accommodations comeupon an abandonedsisal field Yucatfin carves out a at theend of thepark. From across a separateworld that first-rateand the low stonewall the loudrepetitious is bonded to a che-che-che-che-cheof a Mangrove unique history. Vireo maygreet you. Keepalert for As you journey birdingis spectacular the vocalizer, similar to a White- throughthe region, eyedVireo, but unlikelyto be con- ancient cities seem byJohn Alcock fusedwith it. Justpast the temple a to riseup, with tow- grassytrack leadsoff to the left. ering pyramidsand templesthat nent,while parrots, hummingbirds, Down it you may find a pepper- demonstratea mastery of engineer- toucans,and trogonsfly overhead.shrike or a Turquoise-browedMot- ingand mathematics. Here the intri- Motmots,jacamars and Jabirus live mot. Don'tworry if you missthem; cate hand-carved monuments are here,and sidetrips from the ruins you'llhave additional chances at Ux- morethan clues to an anthropologi-will takeyou to thousandsof flamin- mal and Chich•n Itzfi. cal story--theyare exquisiteworks gosbreeding near the coast. Backon highway261 heading of art inspiredby a religiousvision The Yucatfinis boundedby the north about a mile or two before of the cosmos. This is the land of Gulf of Mexico, the Caribbean, and Progreso,the road to Yukalpet6n the Maya, an ancientcivilization by thefoothills of thecentral moun- takesoff to the left, throughman- that flourished between 200 and tainsof Chiapas,Guatemala, and groves.Along it will be all the pos- 700 A.D. Belize. The habitat zones include sible egrets and herons, some In the winter months, the Yu- sandybeaches, often backed by nar- shorebirds,probably a GreenKing- catfinis also a birder'sparadise. Dur- row stripsof palm trees,behind fisher, and overhead innumerable ing a two-weektrip around the which are lagoonsand mangrove MangroveSwallows. Go out to the peninsulaand into the neighboringswamps. Inland, there is arid scrub coasteast of Progresoand look in regionof Chiapas,birders should be woodlandgrowing on a baseof fos- the scrubbyvegetation just inland ableto spot200-300 speciesat the silized coral reef in the north, and from the beach for Yucatan Wrens archaeologicalruins and on con- dry scrubgradually moving toward and Mexican Sheartails. nectingroads. Because many birds humid, more luxuriantgrowth in During the winteryou can find inhabit areas in and around the the lowland in the south. about20,000 flamingos60 miles ruins,you can walk alongancient westof M•dda on the edgeof the pathsand explore some of thegreat- ENVIRONSOF MERIDA ParqueNatural del Flamenco.You estarchaeological finds on theconti- M6ridais connected to itsport, Pro- cansee some of thesegraceful crea- 1082 ßAmerican Birds, Winter 1990 turesfrom the bridge into Celestfin, whereboatmen will bevying eagerly to take visitors out for a closer look at flocksfeeding on theshores of the Celestfinestuary. Be awarethat at timesthe boatsapproach too near the birds and disturb them in at- temptsto makethem fly forphotog- raphers.The Nature Conservancy works with the Mexican Govern- mentat thisrefuge and at RioLagar- tos,where the flamingos breed. The Rufous-necked Wood-Rail is a local specialtyhere. Be sure to lookfor it. CHICH•'NIT7Ji An inspiring Post-ClassicMayan ceremonialcity, Chichrn Itzfi lies on the road from M•rida to Cancun. Chich•n[tzfi is an elegantbirding place,and one of the best-knownof all theMayan ruins. In earlymorning you'll discover alongthe roadthat leadsfrom the backgate of thearchaeological zone to the hotelsa true birding"hot- spot".The observerisalmost sure to seesuch striking Mexican species as YucatanJay, White-fronted Parrot, CollaredAracari, Squirrel Cuckoo, The GroatPyramid on the groundsof the Mayanceromonial city of Chich•nItz• MaskedTityra, MelodiousBlack- is one of the mostfamous ruins in the NewWorld. Not onlyis the city itself spectacular,but bird watchingin and aroundthe groundsis fantastic,especially bird,and Yellow-throated Euphonia for the early birder.Photograph/Mexican Ministry of Tourism. in additionto variousmigrants from eastern North America. sacrificialofferings, which included UXMAL The grounds of Hacienda bothprisoners of warand semi-vol- Situated 60 miles south of M•rida, Chichrn, one of the hotels,offers its unteer teenagers).This northern Uxmalis another great Mayan mon- guestseven more highly concen- sectorof the park shouldprove umentthat attracts large numbers of tratedbirding. Although only a cou- productive.The openarea near the visitors.Although in generalthe ple of acresin extent,its flowering observatoriousually has a Gray- habitat and the birds are the same as treesand shrubs and its privacyen- crowned Yellowthroat. Around its those of Chich•n Itzfi, around its sure better looks at the birds than perimeter,numerous paths into the older section known as the "North- can be obtained on the road outside. scrubhave the advantageof being ern Zone", Uxmal has a section once Often Fork-tailed Emeralds, Buff- out of thescope of the averagevisi- clearedthat is coveredin grassy belliedand Cinnamonhumming- tor.Reconnoitering may add White- weeds,and a sprinklingof small birds can be found here. belliedWren, Spot-breasted Wren, thorn trees. The old road into the The touristbuses begin to dis- and FerruginousPygmy-Owl to ruins is now blocked at its far end gorgepassengers at Chich•n Itzfi at yourlist. andthus unused. It meetsthe high- about10 A.M. and mostleave by While at Chich•n Itzfi see the luz waya quartermile before the pres- 3:30 P.M. In the hours before the y sonido(light and sound)show entturn off to thepark. To theright bulk of the tourists arrive and after basedon Mayan mythology.It is alongthis lane, a fencemarks the they leave,explore the areaaway presentedunder the starsin the boundaryof the weedyarea; to the from the ballcourt and the cenote Plaza de Armas in front of the Great left is a dense scrub thicket. The set- sagrado(the sacredwell into whose Pyramidand heightensone's sense ting seemsdesigned for watching depthsthe Mayan priests threw their of continuitywith the past. birds,especially grosbeaks, buntings, Volume 44, Number 5 ß 10• GETTINGAROUND THEY.IJ.C.ATAN In starkcontrast to the dizzy- ing mountainousheights of the rest of Mexico, the Yucatfin sprawlsout with resoluteflatness. This makes for easiertravel, both behind the wheel and on foot. Be- causemost of the regionis near sealevel, you don'thave to worry aboutfatigue from high altitudes. However,while severalmajor archaelogicalsites, such as Chichdn Itzfi and Uxmal, are well cleared and easily accessible, walkingcan be difficultthrough some of the less excavated rains nearthe jungle.Many of these ruggedsites offer top birding,so archaeologicalsites. it'sworth it to toughit out if you MayanHighways (Cobd): Sys- MERIDAAND ENVIRONS can. Prepare yourself with tem of sacbes,ancient wide roads, DImLCnALWN mosquitorepellent and sturdy for center of commerce. shoes. LOCAlION:10 miles north of M•rida Pyramidof the Descending on Rte 261. Then 4 miles east Driving is the bestway for God (CobcO:Tallest pyramid in down a marked side road. birdersto getaround. Most major northern Yucatfin at 138 feet. DATESOF STRUCIURES: 800 BC. Americancar rental agencies have Contains stone stelae carved to officesin Mdrida,including Avis, depictMayan stories. MAJORARCHAEOLOGICAL srrEs: Hertz, and National. Economy Templeof SevenDolls: Seven rentalscost about $250 per week, PALENQUE clay dolls were found during with somecompanies tacking on excavationof the temple.They LOCATION:95 miles s•outheast of Villa- mileagefees. Be sureto makear- wereprobably used in ceremonies rangementswell in advance,as hermosa. 325 miles from Mdrida. to ward off illness. cars,particularly those with air DATESOFSTRUC11JRES: 500 to 700 A.D. CenoteCommunity well conditioning,often sell out. Althoughtour busesgalore MAJORARCHAEOLOGICAL SI1T• CHICH leave M•rida for Uxmal for Templeof Inscription:Stairs LOCATION:Rte. 180 East, 75 miles Chich•n Itz& and from Cancfin to lead more than 70 feet down to from M•rida. Chich•nItzfi and Tulfim, they can royal tomb of Mayan leader be ruled out fo[ the birder. Buses, buried during seventhcentury DATESOFSTRUCTURES: Northern Zone: includinglocal transport, are apt A.D. beneathpyramid. Post 900 A.D. to be crowded, slow, uncomfort- Palace:Complex set of build- Southern Zone: 600 to 900 A.D. able,and difficult for peoplewho ingsand courtyards.Masterful MAJORARCHAEOLOGICAl. SlES: friezes. do not speakSpanish. Only from Templeof Kukulfin:Pyramid Villahermosato Palenquewould UXMAL with365 stepsfor days of
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