PANAMA: EL VALLE’S CANOPY LODGE JANUARY 19–26, 2019 Orange-bellied Trogon LEADER: ERIK BRUHNKE LIST COMPILED BY: ERIK BRUHNKE VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM By Erik Bruhnke Panama hosts an array of amazing birding opportunities through its many ecoregions. VENT’s El Valle’s Canopy Lodge tour is a delight for those want to experience the vast bird life of central Panama throughout nonstop scenery and complemented with amazing dining every day. Over the course of the week we traversed along rainforest-blanketed mountainsides, hot and arid lowlands, and even birded along the Caribbean Coast. Our local guide from the Canopy Family, Danilo Jr., took exceptional care of us every day, as did the very kind staff at the lodge. Our first morning started out with a little pre- breakfast birding at the Radisson Hotel along the Panama Canal. Clay-colored Thrushes and Blue- gray Tanagers chimed into the morning light. We scanned the canal to see a plethora of Laughing Gulls and a few sky-high Magnificent Frigatebirds. Tropical Kingbirds chattered among the tree tops. After breakfast we were ready to venture west to the renowned Canopy Lodge. Our drive meandered through many towns and Crimson-backed Tanager forests. We were in awe as we arrived at THE Canopy Lodge. A quaint woodland trail from the parking area led us to the common area where would dine and gather in the days to come. We were warmly welcomed by staff as we prepped for an afternoon of birding the Canopy Lodge grounds. The renowned feeding station (viewable in-person as well as through the Cornell feeder cam) was packed with Gray-headed Chachalacas, Clay-colored Thrushes, Crimson-backed Tanagers, and a handsome Rufous Motmot. Along the path we saw a Mottled Owl, several Blue Dacnis, a Rothschild’s Porcupine, and so much more! The afternoon of birding was spectacular, and it was all within minutes of our rooms. The next morning, we woke up bright and early to enjoy a spectacular home-cooked breakfast made of local ingredients. We headed to La Mesa where we were treated to scope views of a Spectacled Owl. Nearby was a Panama Flycatcher perched atop the trees as two male Red-legged Honeycreepers relentlessly scolded each other. Later in the morning we racked up 9 species of tropical tanagers, including the dapper Gray-headed Tanager. With a little persistence we saw the gorgeous Orange-billed Sparrow showing itself well. The sizeable Giant Cowbird flew over our heads as a Cocoa Woodcreeper was in view. The afternoon was Spectacled Owl spent along Cariguana Road—a road immersed deep in mountainsides, overlooking a horizon of towering, massive cliffs. The walk along the roadside was easygoing and birdy. A Rosy Thrush-Tanager sang from Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Panama: El Valle’s Canopy Lodge, January 2019 deep within the bushes as a Short-tailed Hawk soared overhead. We headed back to the lodge for an amazing dinner as the sun touched the furthest mountaintops. In the morning to follow we took a walk up the path to the pond at Canopy Lodge in search of a Sunbittern. We walked across a rope bridge over the creek as we headed to the calmer pool of water. The sight and sound of rushing water was complemented with Keel-billed Toucans flying high overhead. With a little scanning around the edges, our morning treasure hunt was successful as we enjoyed scope views of the Sunbittern! It took a group effort and careful eye. With persistence and patience, everyone had wonderful views. What a Sunbittern at Canopy Lodge! bird. Our afternoon had us heading up to higher elevations where new habitats and new birds awaited. Our high-elevation region to be visited was Altos Del Maria. On the drive up we enjoyed the presence of a very vocal Red-faced Spinetail and Plain Antvireo. One of the show-stealing moments of the morning was a singing Bay Wren out in the open for only a short time, but incredibly enjoyable. Its rich chestnut- colored body complemented its white throat and black-and-white mask perfectly. Once again, we were left in awe…this time, by this tiny and amazing wren. The steep, winding roads swerved around walls of vibrant green foliage. Closer to the top of the mountain, we were greeted with cooler temperatures, fog, and a flock of impeccably-looking Silver-throated Tanagers. Their lemon-yellow plumage glowed. Minutes later we heard the chip notes of the Snowcap, a small magenta- colored hummingbird with a patch of white atop its head. After a few minutes of searching, this beauty came into binocular view. Even through light fog, its gorgeous colors were simply incredible. The Snowcap, like many of the birds to come Male Orange-bellied Trogon later in the day and throughout the upcoming day, are high-elevation specialists. A stunning male Orange-bellied Trogon was icing on the cake for the afternoon. He perched out in the open, showing off his deep-emerald backside that complemented his vibrant orange underbelly. Our picnic lunch took place along a quaint pond surrounded by trees. Scarlet-thighed Dacnis and Bay- headed Tanagers energetically bounced through the upper canopy. A Gray-lined Hawk was spotted Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Panama: El Valle’s Canopy Lodge, January 2019 perched atop a fence post. The open skies welcomed raptors. While we enjoyed the delicious meal, a Bat Falcon sheered overhead. As it rose higher and higher, we noticed that it was headed in the direction of a soaring Ornate Hawk-Eagle! The afternoon had us trekking along boardwalks through the rainforest, in admiration of both the birds and trees that endlessly surrounded us. The next day we made another visit up to Altos Del Maria. This higher elevation hotspot is quite vast and Tufted Flycatcher offers many roads that simply cannot be birded all in one day. While en route up the winding road, we stopped to watch a heliconian flower. Not a patch of heliconian flowers, but just one…and for a good reason. This exact flower was a favorite flower of a very uncommon hummingbird, the White-tipped Sicklebill. This species forages through a method called trap-lining, where it revisits favorite flowers and follows a daily route of its favorite feeding spots. After a few minutes of scanning and waiting, it came into view, feeding delicately yet deliberately deep within the fire-orange heliconian flowers. Its disproportionately decurved bill is angled just right to delve deep within the flower for nectar. Throughout our full day to come, we meandered through old-growth forests “drenched” in beautiful mosses and orchids of impeccable diversity. The cute Mistletoe Tyrannulet (originally called Paltry Tyrannulet) was seen several times. We pulled over to check out a flock of Clay-colored Thrushes feeding both on the ground and throughout higher-up branches. Even being a locally common bird, Clay- colored Thrushes (the national bird of Costa Rica) are gorgeous. We picked out one White-throated Thrush among the Clay-coloreds. Watching us silently from the upper canopy was a Northern Emerald– Rufous-browed Peppershrike Toucanet! The afternoon was brimming with exciting birds like Black-and-yellow Tanager, Tropical Pewees, and several eye level Tufted Flycatchers. After an exciting day in the field, we returned to the lodge where we were welcomed with refreshments and amazing views of Crimson-backed Tanagers gorging themselves at the birdfeeding tray while White-tipped Doves dabbled throughout the ground below. Our last full day of birding took us through El Chirú and Juan Hombron, two entirely different stretches (and ecoregions) of Panama that we had not delved into yet. While birding throughout the hot and arid lowlands of El Chirú, we scored several new birds including the near- Tody Motmot endemic Veraguan Mango, the charismatic Barred Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Panama: El Valle’s Canopy Lodge, January 2019 Antshrike, and the dapper Fork-tailed Flycatcher! Good raptor-viewing opportunities were around us as well in this land of full sun, hot temps, and strong thermals. We picked up a wintering Swainson’s Hawk, Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, and even an American Kestrel. It is truly remarkable how different the landscape is in El Chirú compared to the lush, higher elevation habitat that we experienced earlier in the tour! The afternoon was spent in Juan Hombron, a city along the Caribbean Coast. Our coastal picnic was hosted in a gorgeous beach house in view of amazingly close Brown Pelicans and Laughing Gulls. Several Willets were feeding along the beach. The ambience was peaceful and wonderful. Before heading home, we were treated to scope views of a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl! On our last morning we birded a bit around the Canopy Lodge property to savor the birds and gorgeous scenery one more time. Every day was a treat, and the friends and memories we made will last a lifetime. I’m already Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl looking forward to returning in October for our “Panama: Fall at El Valle’s Canopy Lodge” tour! A glimpse of beautiful Canopy Lodge Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Panama: El Valle’s Canopy Lodge, January 2019 CL – Canopy Lodge LM – La Mesa CR – Cariguana Road ADM – Altos Del Maria EC – El Chirú JH – Juan Hombron COMMON NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME Waterfowl Anatidae Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata CL Guans, Chachalacas & Curassows Cracidae Gray -headed Chachalaca Ortalis cinereiceps Seen every day at CL feeders. Black Guan (RE) Chamaepetes unicolor ADM New World Quail Odontophoridae Black -eared Wood -Quail Odontophorus melanotis Heard at ADM Pigeons and Doves Columbidae Rock Pigeon (I) Columba livia CL, ADM Pale -vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis CR, EC Plain-breasted Ground- Dove Columbina minuta JH Ruddy Ground -Dove Columbina talpacoti Various road between birding hotspots, seen nearly daily.