CUMBING NOTES 2000 SEASON NORTH CASCADES NATIONAL PARK 1999 Accidents: Nine Climbers Evacuated There were 22 incidents that gen­ erated response from search and res­ cue (SAR) crews in North Cascades National Park during 1999. Ten of North Cascades these involved significant effort and/ NationalPark or expense to find and evacuate nine rescueheloon climbers and one hiker from off-trail theLower approach areas or climbing routes. In Curds Glacier, Mt. Shuksan two incidents, the climbers were un­ with St Josephs aware of their location at the time of Med-Flighthelo rescue, likely attributable to 1999's tre­ in the mendous snowpack. Total unpro- backgrcxaid grammed or emergency cost to the National Park Service was $21,506. Five of the incidents are summarized below: the glacier. Overdue by one day, a next morning. In addition to the shoul­ search ensued and found the pair well June 19, Boston Basin/Sahale Peak der injury, the climber suffered a frac­ below treeline with a signal fire be­ A party of five was ascending Sahale tured orbit, lost teeth, and numerous tween branches of Shuksan Creek. Peak's west side when one climber pulled contusions. Both were uninjured, but lost, and had a loose rock onto himself, the rock strik­ ceased travel due to exhaustion from ing his head and causing him to fall 25 July 19, Mount Shuksan/ efforts to find the Shannon Creek feet. One arm became entangled in Shannon Ridge Road. rope, dislocating a shoulder. The group Two climbers, one with previous bivouaced the night on the peak, and Mount Shuksan climbing experience, July 29, Mount Blum used headlamps and a flare as a distress attempted a three-day trip via the Sul­ A party of two planned to climb signal. Another party in Boston Basin phide Glacier route. Intermittently Mounts Blum and Hagan over a four- detected the signal, and reported a sus­ poor weather and the heavy snowpack pected accident via cell phone. Rangers were contributing factors that disori­ day trip from Baker River. Overdue evacuated the climber by helicopter the ented the pair upon their descent from Contiriuedonback What Makes a "Classic" Climb? When Steck and Roper published their 1979 (2nd edi­ Guidebooks and magazines usually provide excellent tion) book 50 Classic Climbs in North America, they in­ route descriptions and overviews. Novice climbers and cluded two routes, relatively unknown at the time, found those new to the area are especially covetous of this in North Cascades National Park. Recent guidebooks, information. It is unfortunately inevitable, however, such as Nelson and Potterfield's Selected Climbs in the Cas­ that these "classic" climbs are usually the most popular cades (original and recently released 2nd volume) have high­ routes in the Park. Backcountry camping permits are lighted particular North Cascades climbs over the hun­ in high demand for these areas, and the routes and bivy dreds of routes described in the all-encompassing vol­ sites are often heavily impacted by years of high use umes of Fred Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide series. Nu­ that notoriety brings. Some climbers complain that merous articles in climbing periodicals, including the when a route attains "classic" status, its wilderness qual­ American Alpine Journal, have touted various peaks and ity is inevitably compromised. routes in the Park as "essential" or "must do". The North Cascades are home to a seemingly endless num­ So what makes a "classic" or "select" climb, anyway? ber of spectacular climbs and high alpine traverses. As Elements such as technical enjoyment, scenery, expo­ more people visit this area in search of a classic climbing sure, rock quality, geographical significance and level of experience, it is critical that climbers exemplify and prac­ commitment all contribute to a climb's overall aesthetic tice Leave No Trace backcountry ethics in order to preserve feeling - regardless of actual difficulty or grade. a classic wilderness experience for all. CiiiiFib^ Cell Phone as a Momtain? 10 Essential? Plan on an extra day or two! The sum­ As the 1999 Accident Summary mer of '99 saw an unusually high num­ shows, notification of a backcountry ber of climbs, and searches, on emergency by cell phone is no longer Johannesburg. Of those parties that an unusual occurrence. North Cas­ completed a climbing register, indicat­ cades National Park neither advo­ ing an expected return time, a full 50% cates nor discourages packing a of these were overdue by a day or more, phone with your gear. But clearly, triggering a search. In each case, climb­ packing a phone instead of any stan­ ing parties were neither lost nor injured dard gear that allows a climbing party - they were just late. The majority of to handle unexpected circumstances parties completed the ascent in their ex­ or accidents is a foolish plan. A cell pected time, but those descending via phone connection may — or may not Gunsight Notch either encountered — be available within the Park. route-finding problems or simply had to descend far slower than expected. If you do place a call to Park Dis­ patch (360-873-4500, ex 37) regard­ Climbers can drive their cars practi­ ing a potential emergency: cally to the base of the awe-inspiring north face of this peak. And because many of the routes can be done, according to Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide, in c*°State your location and phone nine to sixteen hours to the summit, many parties plan on "a long day", or number early in the call in case of expect to bivouac somewhere on the mountain. Experience is showing, how­ connections failure ever, that even for strong, experienced teams, one bivouac is not always enough! ^Communicate the purpose of Johannesburg is one of the most impressive sights in the North Cascades. your call and if you are requesting Anyone who has hiked or climbed in the Cascade Pass area has surely wit­ assistance nessed spectacular ice avalanches sweeping across its north and east faces at unpredictable intervals. If you've got your sights set on this mountain, wear a ^Be prepared to handle your helmet, move swiftly, and consider building some extra time into your planned emergency as you would have with­ climbing schedule. out the phone AccidentsContinued by a day, family members reported Miscellanea... the two missing, and a search be­ Sulphide Glacier Camps gan early on day six. Aerial and There is increasing concern about pollution from human waste at climbing ground searches were conducted, camps that are primarily snow camping the entire season. In response to this, locating the pair in a gully at 2300' a second composting toilet was added at the common area for camping on the on the west flank of Mount Blum. lower Sulphide Glacier. It is recommended that climbers ask the location of The climbers were disoriented, de­ one of the toilets upon obtaining a camping permit, and make an effort to hydrated and unable to continue camp nearby. travel. Fluids and food were low­ ered to the pair; a ground crew Blue Bag info reached them, and guided or car­ In addition to an increasing number of backcountry composting toilets, the ried them to Baker River by the blue bag program is expanding. Blue bags for packing out waste are available morning of day seven. where permits are obtained. Beginning in 2000, deposit barrels will be avail­ able for collecting the used bags, with the waste transported for incineration in August 3, Nooksack Tower Oregon. Check for deposit barrel locations upon obtaining a camping permit. A party of three was on approach to the Nooksack Tower when one suf­ Impact Monitoring of Climbing Approaches fered a knee injury in rough, but non­ The 1999 season brought increased emphasis on impact monitoring and this technical terrain at the base of the effort will continue in 2000. This involved locating and measuring with GPS Tower, rendering him immobile. A units and tape measures any off-trail impacts such as approach trails and non- cell phone call alerted rangers, who designated campsites. In Boston Basin the team inventoried 6113 meters of evacuated the climber by helicopter route, 616 meters of social trails and 25 campsites. Work will continue this within hours of the injury. year in Torment and Eldorado Basins. The information gathered will be used in managing cross-country areas, setting permit allocations, as well as restora­ September 19, Mount Shuksan tion efforts. Rangers were notified by cell phone that one member of a six-person Trailhead Parking Fees group descending Winnies Slide on Beginning in 2000 North Cascades National Park will be included in the the Fisher Chimneys route had trailhead parking fee program that adjoining US Forest Service areas have been injured in a fall. The climber used in recent years. This involves a fee to park at trailheads ($5 per day or $30 was flown out by helicopter from annual pass), and will be required at entry points such as Boston Basin, Eldorado the Upper Curtis Glacier with a Basin and Cascade Pass. The complete list of trailheads included is available fractured ankle. This climber said at Ranger Stations. This fee program does not, at this time, affect the (free) that it was possibly snow buildup Backcountry Permit required for overnight camping, which has been in effect on his eramporis that contributed for ever 20 years at North Cascades. to the fall, .