A KITCHEN WITHOUT BOUNDARIES | SEPTEMBER 14-16, 2008 | NEW YORK CITY

foods such as esquites, multiple styles of tacos, (The Cookhouse, New Zealand) had a conversation and deep-fried foods that can be re-imagined for about working together. fine cuisine. Hands on workshops started during lunch. In the savory room, Paul Liebrandt (Corton, New York) led his workshop attendees through “The most exciting thing the entire process of cooking lamb sous vide, from the sealing of the bags to bringing up the about being a modern chef temperature to achieve a rosy meat. In the pastry is broadening horizons and room, Dave Arnold and Nils Noren (The French Culinary Institute) tag teamed, leading a workshop working with others.” focused on coldness. Using a dehydrator, vacuum, – Heston Blumenthal and Randell’s FX Series refrigerator drawer chilling system, they treated participants to various recipes that used refrigeration to achieve a range of After a stellar lunch made by Foods of Quebec, interesting textures. Charlie Trotter (Charlie Trotter’s, ) elaborated what he considers to be his responsibility as a In the wine room, Master Sommelier Madeline chef. Trotter then prepared two dishes, first in the Triffon (the first woman to earn the MS title) led way they appeared 18 years ago, and then in their attendees through her approach to: “tasting in a current incarnation. Next was “Barton and Rick’s primal way.” The group blind-tasted 3 whites and 5 Sustainability Hour”—not an official title, though no reds and described the wine’s character in terms doubt the oceans would benefit if they took their of acidity, dryness, body, fruit, and old world/new show on the road. Barton Seaver (Washington world. In the mixology workshop, Toby Maloney DC) spoke first about a chefs responsibility to (Violet Hour and Alchemy Consulting) led the group the oceans, imploring the audience to take the through the complex art and flavors of bitters—and depletion of species seriously. Rick Moonen (RM attendees left with a vial of their own bitters mix. Seafood, Las Vegas) echoed this sentiment in his demo, and riffed on a salad frisee using one of his The 2008 New York Rising Stars gathered in current favorite sustainable fish—sablefish. the seminar room to discuss their culinary path— school, mentors, travel, mistakes, challenges—in To end the day, Michael Ruhlman, Anthony the How to Make It panel. Each shared their Bourdain, and Marco Pierre White took the stage Chef Heston Blumenthal perspective on cooking in the challenging New York for a hour-long conversation about “the role of a market, what “making it” meant to them, and how chef.” Ruhlman prodded Bourdain and White on Day 1 they see themselves as future culinary leaders. In their thoughts about Michelin stars, chefs staying in September 14, 2008 the business room, chefs and a producer came the kitchen, multi-course tasting menus, and advice together: Dan Barber (Blue Hill, New York), Lyndon for young cooks. When asked to give advice for Nearly 2,000 members of the culinary industry, Matthews (Puketira Deer Farm, New Zealand), Tory young cooks, White said: “Cooking is a philosophy, hailing from 21 countries around the world, gathered Miller (L’Etoile, Wisconsin), and Graham Brown it’s not a recipe—unless it’s pastry, then in New York City’s historic Park Avenue Armory for the 3rd annual International Chefs Congress—without a doubt the country’s most dynamic and exciting culinary event of the year. The Chefs Congress brought together chefs, pastry chefs, mixologists, sommeliers, industry business leaders, journalists, producers, and leading equipment manufacturers for three days of stage presentations, workshops, panel discussions, seminars, and tastings, all surrounding a lavish product fair that more than one attendee dubbed, “a culinary wonderland.”

The event began with CEO Antoinette Bruno’s welcome address, in which she spoke about major industry trends and the theme of the Congress – “The Responsibility of a Chef.” Next, Heston Blumenthal’s (Fat Duck, UK) keynote address traced his journey to create a Christmas meal incorporating gold, frankincense, myrrh, and reindeer. It took him to Siberia and Oman, and led him to collaborate with a perfumist; Blumenthal spoke of this travel and collaboration as “the most exciting thing about being a modern chef.”

Enrique Olvera (Pujol, Mexico City) followed with his tribute to Mexican native ingredients and street- Marco Pierre White and Anthony Bourdain discuss “The Role of a Chef” it’s chemistry. Keep your head down and learn your using simple, fresh ingredients to enhance the trade. As Fernand Point said, ‘perfection is a lot of Day 2 focus of the dish. To illustrate her point she walked little things done well.’” Bourdain said: “show up on September 15, 2008 her group through a dessert made with fresh-cut time.” Monday morning started with a slew of hands- melons from the farmer’s market, micro-herbs and That night, the presenting chefs, the 2008 New York on workshops and tastings. On the savory side, flowers, melon sorbet, and a crisp caramel ring Brian Polcyn praised fat and salt, the foundations filled with crème fraiche, that was finished with a “Cooks have something to of charcuterie, as he led his group through three chamomile vapor. classic charcuterie recipes. In Mexican Street Food: tell us that is more than from Common to Exquisite, celebrated Mexico City It was a big morning in the mixology room, with Eben Freeman (Tailor, New York) talking about chef Enrique Olvera emphasized the simplicity of about food. It’s about life.” Mexican cooking and presented two recipes that smart bar management, and Audrey Saunders – Michael Ruhlman add a modern spin to the traditional dishes of tacos (Pegu Club, New York) waxing poetic about gin. al pastor and esquites. Freeman showed his group how to maintain the cocktail frenzy and combat the rising cost of raw Rising Stars, and the Congress sponsors gathered In the pastry room, Rick Billings (L’Atelier de Joel materials with steadfast creativity, smart bar for a private dinner at Porterhouse in the Time Robuchon, New York) re-approached a dessert he management, and a keen eye for the bottom line. Warner Center, where they enjoyed a multi-course had previously made at Clio (using additives) to Saunders began her workshop with an introduction: meal prepared by chefs Michael Lomonaco, Rick see how natural products could recreate similar “I am Audrey Saunders, and I like gin.” She set Moonen, Bradford Thompson, Marc Forgione, textures. Uyen Nguyen (Guy Savoy, Las Vegas) spoke up a blind tasting for 20 industry professionals, Larry Forgione, and Sherry Yard. out against over-complicating and over-elaborating including Eben Freeman, Johnny Iuzzini, and Wylie the natural beauty of desserts, and encouraged Dufresne, explaining which type of cockail each was best suited for according to proof, heat, mouthfeel, and lingering botanicals.

In the wine room, Anthony Giglio said: “Life is good in Italy, and so is the wine,” as he led his group through a tasting of Italian organic and biodynamic wines. After the groups tasted and discussed six wines, he closed with some advice: “Drink wine, drink often, and drink everything you can get your lips on.”

In the business seminar, Shawn McClain (Green Zebra, New York) discussed how to successfully operate multiple restaurants of difference concepts emphasizing management structure, investor strategies, marketing and PR, leases, and locations. Kep Sweeney (Acceleron Group, Las Vegas) debunked the notion that successful restaurants rely solely on operations by explaining the three phases to restaurant ventures and how to engineer out the majority of risk. Laurel Cudden (B.R. Guest) and Richard Young (Food Service Technology Center) advocated the necessity for restaurants to continue to push sustainability, not just on the menu, but through the operations from equipment efficiency to water conservation.

Monday’s main stage presentations began with Chef Jordi Butron (Espai Sucre, Spain), who spoke of the difference between restaurant pastry and pastry shops. Butron discussed some pastry fundamentals while one of his cooks plated a dessert of smoked brioche, truffle agar, butter ice cream, and hazelnut shortbread that demonstrated his approach of combining traditional flavors with modern techniques. Next came the charismatic Masaharu Morimoto (Morimoto, New York City), who flexed his legendary knife skills by breaking down an entire monkfish hung from a hook. He identified every part of the fish—and even better, incorporated everything, from gills to liver, into various dishes.

During lunch (which featured American Lamb Burgers by Chef Franklin Becker (New York), Iacopo Falai (Falai, New York) walked a group through an easy bread recipe which they turned into five types of simple bread—beet, spinach, whole wheat, rosemary, and sesame. Dave Wondrich discussed the history of punch in the mixology workshop room, Chef Masaharu Morimoto breaking down a whole monkfish explaining how punch was, for Day 3 Tuesday September 16, 2008 In the savory room, two of New Zealand’s finest came together to prepare a dish using one of the country’s best-known products, Cervena venison. Deer farmer Lyndon Matthews (recipient of the 2008 New Zealand Deer Industry award) and Executive Chef Graham Brown (The Cookhouse, New Zealand) demonstrated how a green kitchen can also make for a tastier meal. Next, Anthony Bombaci (Nana, Dallas) discussed his philosophy of plating in “The Art of Presentation.” “Creativity on the plate should never hinder flavor,” he said as he passed out caramelized bananas, banana crisps, and foie gras truffles, and led attendees through plating on elegant Bauscher serviceware.

In the pastry room, Jacques Torres (Jacques Torres Chocolates, New York) jumped right into the fundamentals of his chocolate techniques—ganache and tempering—and stressed the importance of Pastry Chef Uyen Nguyen’s fresh-cut melon dish efficiency, precision, and technique. Next, Pastry Chef Sherry Yard (Wolfgang Puck Group) put everyone to work making soufflés. Yard demonstrated the many years in England, the working man’s drink, pig—a classic roast (by Lopez) and one prepared en Austrian dessert Kaiserschmarren, which has and how the trend of serving punch bowls in bars sous vide (by Roca). The presentation ended with become a classic at Spago in Beverly Hills, and is today reflects a return to the communal spirit of the Lopez’s suckling pig (roasted to a golden brown, served to thousands of attendees at the annual Larry Forgione bar. (An American Place, St. Louis) and filling the arena with the intoxicating smell of Academy Awards, Grammy Awards and Emmy was joined on the Culinary Trailblazers panel by pork fat) cracked and portioned with the edge of Awards. chef Jonathan Waxman (Barbuto, New York) and a plate. Appetite thoroughly whetted, attendees Mitchell Davis moderator (VP, The James Beard left the main stage and headed to the products Chefs, bartenders, and cocktail enthusiasts came Foundation) for a discussion that ranged from fair for the Congress Cocktail, where they enjoyed to hear Simon Difford (Diffordsguide, England) finding the best chicken to the ethics of genetically cocktails prepared by the presenting mixologists, elaborate on his approach to making cocktails, Ben Pollinger altered ingredients. “Much of what’s taken for and small bites prepared by chefs which he summed up by saying: “it’s about quality, Bart Vandale granted today was a difficult process 20 years ago,” (Oceana, New York), (Belga Café, accuracy, and dilution.” In the Tasting Room, Graham Brown said Forgione, a man considered to be one of the Washington DC), (The Cookhouse, Steve Olson (aka Wine Geek, NYC) took his group Pichet Ong fathers of American cuisine. New Zealand), (P*Ong, New York), on a tour of Spanish wine country, starting at the Gregg Wangard Jeff McInnis , (DiLido Beach Club, southwestern costal region of Jerez and moving Wylie Dufresne Robert Coll Pete (wd-50, New York City) revealed an Miami), (American Lamb Board), clockwise. Each of the 10 wines sampled (each Daversa Ryan Poli inkling of his creative process as he prepared his (Hill Country, New York), and featuring an indigenous grape) had its own uniquely riff on the classical dish eggs Benedict. Dufresne (Perennial, Chicago). rich and complex aroma and taste. reiterated the importance of taking a step back, and of the meandering journey of creativity, saying: “we’re not going from A to B but from A to Z.” In the tasting room, Jim Javenkoski and Chef Francois Pellerin led guests through a tasting of Canada’s Unibroue beer, a Belgian-inspired brewery that has been producing re-fermented ales since 1990. The beers were paired with assorted cheeses, meats, and chocolates.

Back on the main stage, we moved on to Africa and Sweden with Marcus Samuelsson (Aquavit, New York). He spoke first of Swedish flavors and techniques while preparing a sea urchin flan with dill-crusted watermelon, then moved on to Africa with a modern African dish—cassava stuffed shrimp with pickled papaya salad and green curry sauce. Next Ana Sortun (Oleana, Boston) showed her passion for eastern Mediterranean cuisine in her demonstration of a classic dish—kibbeh. She prepared three kinds—carrot kibbeh with raisins, fried almonds, and za’atar, tomato kibbeh with pickled corn, sumac, and sweet and hot peppers, and beef kibbeh with porcini, spinach and dried mint.

Monday’s finale was the dual demonstration of Candido Lopez (Meson de Candido, Spain) and Joan Roca (Cellar de Can Roca, Spain). Together they introduced two techniques for the suckling Chefs Candido Lopez and Joan Roca demonstrate the traditional Spanish method of sectioning a pig In the tasting room, Chef Michael Tuohy (Grange, the stage next to talk about his work with PS 41, Sacramento) and olive oil expert Jeffrey Shaw an elementary school in Greenwich Village. Anthony (Trade Commission of Spain) taught attendees has begun regularly visiting the 1st grade classrooms how to evaluate olive oil, and how to incorporate to teach the students about flavors and foods—the an olive oil tasting into a restaurant’s menu. The students in turn visit his kitchen at Gramercy Tavern olive oils used were from Spain—Spain being one and take trips to the Union Square Greenmarket, of the most prolific and varied producers of olive and then complete in-school activities relating to oil—and ranged in flavor profile, body, and weight. In food and cooking. the business seminar room, four chef-restaurateurs spoke of their experiences in going from fine dining to casual. Paul Kahan (Blackbird, Chicago), Ken Oringer (Clio, Boston), Traci Des Jardins (Jardiniere, “Being a responsible chef San Francisco), and Anita Lo (Anissa, New York) is putting forth new ideas each opened one or more casual restaurant after opening the fine dining restaurant that brought in a respectful, purposeful, them acclaim, and during the panel touched on creative way.” – the process, the challenges, and more. In the small Chefs and Larry Forgione business room, Jeff Kadish and Steve Scher (Main Street Restaurant Partners, New York) provided a The last act of the day (and the Congress unique strategy on a restaurant management’s programming) was Grant Achatz (Alinea, Chicago)— The Chef Blogging seminar brought together budgeting method—using future projections, rather and he did his grand finale duty well, scintillating Michael Laiskonis (, New York), Traci than past performances, to budget your operational the audience with his defense of modern, creative des Jardins (Jardiniere, San Francisco), and Aki costs. cuisine. Achatz listed “the most important Kamozawa and Alex Talbot (Ideas in Food) with restaurants in the world”—Heston, Ferran, Wylie, moderator Andrea Strong (The Strong Buzz, New Back on the main stage, the 2008 ICC Innovator Thomas Keller, Jean-Georges, Joan Roca, etc— York). The group talked about the how’s and why’s Awards were awarded to three chefs and four saying, “Without creativity, ingenuity, our industry of blogging—from the different tools available to products. The chef honorees were Larry Forgione would be static. Cooking would be homogenous… readers’ expectations. Chef Norman Van Aken (Contribution to American Cuisine Award), Daniel food would be monotonous….cooks and diners (Norman’s, Orlando) and Mark Stech-Novak Boulud (Mentoring Award), and Charlie Trotter would be mindless.” He went on to talk about the (Restaurant Consultation and Design, Oakland), (Community Award), and the products recognized service pieces used at Alinea (designed by Martin a former chef turned restaurant kitchen designer, were the CVap Cook & Hold Oven (Winston Kastner of Crucial Detail Design), using them as sat side by side to deliver a business seminar on Industries), the Microplane Zester/Grater a jumping-off point for a discussion of the ways in restaurant design—specifically kitchen energy (Microplane), Sechuan Buttons (Koppert Cress which a chef can control and enhance the dining efficiency. Jamie Tiampo (See Food Media, New USA), and the Tafelstern Showpiece Collection by experience. That, said Achatz, is what he considers York) and Antoinette Bruno (StarChefs.com) led Bauscher. The awards were voted on by Congress to be his responsibility as a chef: “…putting forth a food photography seminar that taught attendees attendees, save for the American Cuisine Award, new ideas in a respectful, purposeful, creative about equipment, settings, lighting, and angles. which was voted on by the StarChefs.com Chefs way.” Advisory Board. To start the day on the main stage, Daniel Boulud His talk was the culmination of a three day event (Daniel, New York) gathered three of his executive After the awards, Rene Redzepi (Noma, Denmark) that, at its best, changed the way its participants chefs and a plethora of pork products (including took the stage, bringing an array of onions with thought about food. That night it was time to party— a whole, glistening pig) for a presentation on him. “At Noma we are very seasonal,” he explained, at the New York Rising Stars tasting and awards mentoring and on pork from head to tail. Each “onions are in season now, so I brought 16 types.” gala under the big blue whale at the Museum of executive chef—Olivier Muller of DB Bistro, Jean- His 6 dishes featured onions in some form, always Natural History. François Bruel of Daniel, and Damien Sansonetti highlighted by other local ingredients, like foraged of Bar Boulud—prepared a different part of the pig, herbs, ash from local hay, and seagull eggs. sharing their recipe and technique while Boulud Michael Anthony (Gramercy Tavern, New York) took chimed in with stories, anecdotes, and advice. Carlo Cracco (Ristorante Cracco, Milan) showed the technique for his seafood sheets, essentially edible paper made of raw seafood flavored with olive oil and salt, and dehydrated—a perfect example of Cracco’s approach to modern Italian cuisine: innovation rooted in tradition.

During lunch, hosted by Jose Andrés (Jaleo, Washington DC) and sponsored by Foods of Spain, Nils Noren and Dave Arnold (French Culinary Institute, New York) came together again to lead a group through their newest techniques: flash- carbonization, flavor modification, and distillation. Michael Laiskonis (Le Bernardin, New York) discussed the three tiers of petit fours served at Le Bernadin, with specific focus on the 3rd tier: tiny a la minute bites that go beyond chocolate bons bons and nougats. In the “Modern Cocktail Techniques: Exploring Density, Textures and Sensations” workshop, Junior Merino (The Liquid Chef, New York) walked the class through a four-layer cocktail consisting of a ginger julep, tequila and roses, pastis espuma, and hibiscus-rose salt air bubbles. Chef Grant Achatz defending modern, creativce cuisine