The Most Exciting Thing About Being a Modern Chef Is
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A KITCHEN WITHOUT BOUNDARIES | SEPTEMBER 14-16, 2008 | NEW YORK CITY foods such as esquites, multiple styles of tacos, (The Cookhouse, New Zealand) had a conversation and deep-fried foods that can be re-imagined for about working together. fine cuisine. Hands on workshops started during lunch. In the savory room, Paul Liebrandt (Corton, New York) led his workshop attendees through “The most exciting thing the entire process of cooking lamb sous vide, from the sealing of the bags to bringing up the about being a modern chef temperature to achieve a rosy meat. In the pastry is broadening horizons and room, Dave Arnold and Nils Noren (The French Culinary Institute) tag teamed, leading a workshop working with others.” focused on coldness. Using a dehydrator, vacuum, – Heston Blumenthal and Randell’s FX Series refrigerator drawer chilling system, they treated participants to various recipes that used refrigeration to achieve a range of After a stellar lunch made by Foods of Quebec, interesting textures. Charlie Trotter (Charlie Trotter’s, Chicago) elaborated what he considers to be his responsibility as a In the wine room, Master Sommelier Madeline chef. Trotter then prepared two dishes, first in the Triffon (the first woman to earn the MS title) led way they appeared 18 years ago, and then in their attendees through her approach to: “tasting in a current incarnation. Next was “Barton and Rick’s primal way.” The group blind-tasted 3 whites and 5 Sustainability Hour”—not an official title, though no reds and described the wine’s character in terms doubt the oceans would benefit if they took their of acidity, dryness, body, fruit, and old world/new show on the road. Barton Seaver (Washington world. In the mixology workshop, Toby Maloney DC) spoke first about a chefs responsibility to (Violet Hour and Alchemy Consulting) led the group the oceans, imploring the audience to take the through the complex art and flavors of bitters—and depletion of species seriously. Rick Moonen (RM attendees left with a vial of their own bitters mix. Seafood, Las Vegas) echoed this sentiment in his demo, and riffed on a salad frisee using one of his The 2008 New York Rising Stars gathered in current favorite sustainable fish—sablefish. the seminar room to discuss their culinary path— school, mentors, travel, mistakes, challenges—in To end the day, Michael Ruhlman, Anthony the How to Make It panel. Each shared their Bourdain, and Marco Pierre White took the stage Chef Heston Blumenthal perspective on cooking in the challenging New York for a hour-long conversation about “the role of a market, what “making it” meant to them, and how chef.” Ruhlman prodded Bourdain and White on Day 1 they see themselves as future culinary leaders. In their thoughts about Michelin stars, chefs staying in SEPTEMBER 14, 2008 the business room, chefs and a producer came the kitchen, multi-course tasting menus, and advice together: Dan Barber (Blue Hill, New York), Lyndon for young cooks. When asked to give advice for Nearly 2,000 members of the culinary industry, Matthews (Puketira Deer Farm, New Zealand), Tory young cooks, White said: “Cooking is a philosophy, hailing from 21 countries around the world, gathered Miller (L’Etoile, Wisconsin), and Graham Brown it’s not a recipe—unless it’s pastry, then in New York City’s historic Park Avenue Armory for the 3rd annual International Chefs Congress—without a doubt the country’s most dynamic and exciting culinary event of the year. The Chefs Congress brought together chefs, pastry chefs, mixologists, sommeliers, industry business leaders, journalists, producers, and leading equipment manufacturers for three days of stage presentations, workshops, panel discussions, seminars, and tastings, all surrounding a lavish product fair that more than one attendee dubbed, “a culinary wonderland.” The event began with CEO Antoinette Bruno’s welcome address, in which she spoke about major industry trends and the theme of the Congress – “The Responsibility of a Chef.” Next, Heston Blumenthal’s (Fat Duck, UK) keynote address traced his journey to create a Christmas meal incorporating gold, frankincense, myrrh, and reindeer. It took him to Siberia and Oman, and led him to collaborate with a perfumist; Blumenthal spoke of this travel and collaboration as “the most exciting thing about being a modern chef.” Enrique Olvera (Pujol, Mexico City) followed with his tribute to Mexican native ingredients and street- Marco Pierre White and Anthony Bourdain discuss “The Role of a Chef” it’s chemistry. Keep your head down and learn your using simple, fresh ingredients to enhance the trade. As Fernand Point said, ‘perfection is a lot of Day 2 focus of the dish. To illustrate her point she walked little things done well.’” Bourdain said: “show up on SEPTEMBER 15, 2008 her group through a dessert made with fresh-cut time.” Monday morning started with a slew of hands- melons from the farmer’s market, micro-herbs and That night, the presenting chefs, the 2008 New York on workshops and tastings. On the savory side, flowers, melon sorbet, and a crisp caramel ring Brian Polcyn praised fat and salt, the foundations filled with crème fraiche, that was finished with a “Cooks have something to of charcuterie, as he led his group through three chamomile vapor. classic charcuterie recipes. In Mexican Street Food: tell us that is more than from Common to Exquisite, celebrated Mexico City It was a big morning in the mixology room, with chef Enrique Olvera emphasized the simplicity of Eben Freeman (Tailor, New York) talking about about food. It’s about life.” Mexican cooking and presented two recipes that smart bar management, and Audrey Saunders – Michael Ruhlman add a modern spin to the traditional dishes of tacos (Pegu Club, New York) waxing poetic about gin. al pastor and esquites. Freeman showed his group how to maintain the cocktail frenzy and combat the rising cost of raw Rising Stars, and the Congress sponsors gathered In the pastry room, Rick Billings (L’Atelier de Joel materials with steadfast creativity, smart bar for a private dinner at Porterhouse in the Time Robuchon, New York) re-approached a dessert he management, and a keen eye for the bottom line. Warner Center, where they enjoyed a multi-course had previously made at Clio (using additives) to Saunders began her workshop with an introduction: meal prepared by chefs Michael Lomonaco, Rick see how natural products could recreate similar “I am Audrey Saunders, and I like gin.” She set Moonen, Bradford Thompson, Marc Forgione, textures. Uyen Nguyen (Guy Savoy, Las Vegas) spoke up a blind tasting for 20 industry professionals, Larry Forgione, and Sherry Yard. out against over-complicating and over-elaborating including Eben Freeman, Johnny Iuzzini, and Wylie the natural beauty of desserts, and encouraged Dufresne, explaining which type of cockail each was best suited for according to proof, heat, mouthfeel, and lingering botanicals. In the wine room, Anthony Giglio said: “Life is good in Italy, and so is the wine,” as he led his group through a tasting of Italian organic and biodynamic wines. After the groups tasted and discussed six wines, he closed with some advice: “Drink wine, drink often, and drink everything you can get your lips on.” In the business seminar, Shawn McClain (Green Zebra, New York) discussed how to successfully operate multiple restaurants of difference concepts emphasizing management structure, investor strategies, marketing and PR, leases, and locations. Kep Sweeney (Acceleron Group, Las Vegas) debunked the notion that successful restaurants rely solely on operations by explaining the three phases to restaurant ventures and how to engineer out the majority of risk. Laurel Cudden (B.R. Guest) and Richard Young (Food Service Technology Center) advocated the necessity for restaurants to continue to push sustainability, not just on the menu, but through the operations from equipment efficiency to water conservation. Monday’s main stage presentations began with Chef Jordi Butron (Espai Sucre, Spain), who spoke of the difference between restaurant pastry and pastry shops. Butron discussed some pastry fundamentals while one of his cooks plated a dessert of smoked brioche, truffle agar, butter ice cream, and hazelnut shortbread that demonstrated his approach of combining traditional flavors with modern techniques. Next came the charismatic Masaharu Morimoto (Morimoto, New York City), who flexed his legendary knife skills by breaking down an entire monkfish hung from a hook. He identified every part of the fish—and even better, incorporated everything, from gills to liver, into various dishes. During lunch (which featured American Lamb Burgers by Chef Franklin Becker (New York), Iacopo Falai (Falai, New York) walked a group through an easy bread recipe which they turned into five types of simple bread—beet, spinach, whole wheat, rosemary, and sesame. Dave Wondrich discussed the history of punch in the mixology workshop room, Chef Masaharu Morimoto breaking down a whole monkfish explaining how punch was, for Day 3 TUEsday SEPTEMBER 16, 2008 In the savory room, two of New Zealand’s finest came together to prepare a dish using one of the country’s best-known products, Cervena venison. Deer farmer Lyndon Matthews (recipient of the 2008 New Zealand Deer Industry award) and Executive Chef Graham Brown (The Cookhouse, New Zealand) demonstrated how a green kitchen can also make for a tastier meal. Next, Anthony Bombaci (Nana, Dallas) discussed his philosophy of plating in “The Art of Presentation.” “Creativity on the plate should never hinder flavor,” he said as he passed out caramelized bananas, banana crisps, and foie gras truffles, and led attendees through plating on elegant Bauscher serviceware. In the pastry room, Jacques Torres (Jacques Torres Chocolates, New York) jumped right into the fundamentals of his chocolate techniques—ganache and tempering—and stressed the importance of Pastry Chef Uyen Nguyen’s fresh-cut melon dish efficiency, precision, and technique.