Bonus Feature: Included in effect making the fabric three dimensional. (see Figures l and 2). Don't use this tech­ Sometimes the needleworker marks the nique for your Master's swatches. this article is information fabric with dots to indicate where th e gatheri ng stitches will go. Smocking on fo r designing a pillow using knitted fabrics is easier because the rows different , a different and columns of knit stitches make the ideal locations for the gathering stitches more pillow size or a variation of obvious. the pattern. Use smocking in your to cinch in a , waistline, or sleeves. Or use it to ABOUT SMOCKING add a decorative effect. Thought to have originated around the 13th or 14th century, smocking was used in SMOCKING TECHNIQUES peasant garments to gather the yokes and Knitted smocking most often creates a sleeves of loose fi tting garments -smocks. honeycomb effect and is done in a variety Colorful decorated the gathers of ways. The smocking effect can be applied and often indicated the town o r occupation after a piece is knitted or during the knit­ of the wearer. The Smocking Arts Guild of ting process. America defines smocking this way: "Deco­ rative stitchi ng across the tops of . In the embroidery technique, a separate This stitching is used to decorate the surface, strand threaded onto a tapestry needle is to add texture and dimension, and/or as a used to draw columns of fabric together. means to control fullness of the fabric." This technique makes it easy to use a con­ The gathers are formed into diamond shapes trast color for the connecting stitches and (referred to as honeycombs) or tubes, in work over odd numbered row intervals continued on page 36 ......

www.TKGA.com 35 SOLVING COMMON PROBLEMS with and cabling. To mitigate the STITCH ANATOMY Difficulties with smocking are generally problem, tug on the when you bring it minor, but addressing the following will help fo rward before the purl. show off your handcrafting skills. Knitting literature offers many variations of continued from page 35 Inconsistent Wrap Sizes and Placement smocking techniques. The following pillow In embroidered smocking, control your patterns use versions of the embroidery wrap size by carefully observing where you technique and the smocking stitch. The wrapping, or clustering, technique typi­ are bringing up the needle next to and under cally involves slipping a group of stitches to a the rib columns. Avoid splitting surrounding EMBROIDERED SMOCKING cable needle or spare double-pointed needle, stitches on the front side of the work. Guide PILLOW LESSON wrapping them with the working yarn, then strands, as described later in this ar.ticle, will This pillow pattern uses a smaller needle size than that recommended by the yarn slipping them back to the right hand needle help with consistent placement as well. manufacturer. In a pillow, denser fabric will to be worked in the established pattern. give the pillow more body and durability. Sometimes however the stitches are worked In working the smocking stitch, practice The pillow starts with a provisional cast on and then wrapped (see Figure 3). will usually help with getting the wrap sizes so that the bottom seam can be joined with consistent. In your swatch, pay close a 3-Needle Bind Off. The top will also be Using the smocking stitch allows the knitter attention to how tightly together you are joined with a 3-Needle Bind Off. to skip both the tapestry needle and the squeezing the gathered stitches. If you are cable needle. It is worked by skipping over a using a cable needle when wrapping, keep Pattern Information few stitches and drawing up a loop with the the right hand needle close to the wrapping You will find the pattern directions in the left hand needle. This loop wraps around so extra length doesn't sneak in. fo llowing in blue. Each is introduced by the front to gather the stitches then is knit an explanation of the directions along with together with the first of the skipped stitches Inconsistent Wrap Style techn ique tips. Also incl uded are pattern (see Figures 4 and 5). Decide before you begin wrapping whether specifications and a suggested materials list. you want the wraps crossed or parallel. You Yarn Choice can always go back later and manipulate Embroidered Smocking Pillow A fine gauge yarn is often recommended them into place with a needle tip, but try to by Mary Forte fo r garments using smocking because the always wrap the same way to save yourself gathering can cause the fabric to become time. A good time to adjust the wrap is right Yarn Symbol: Medium (4) quite thick. The more stitches included in after the final knit stitch of a cluster. Level of Experience: Intermediate the gathers, the "deeper" the fabric will be. As with most fancy stitch patterns, smock­ Over-Large Stitch at the K-to-P Transition Finished Measurements: ing will be easier to see on a smooth, light­ Distorted or over-large stitches where knits Width: 14" colored yarn. change to purls is a common problem Length: 14"

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36 Cast On• May- July 2010 ' '1 4 gathers (8 ribs) across, more for finer gauge yarn.

The smocking may draw in as m uch as one-third of ilie width, and the tightness of the wrap or smocking stitch will also affect tl1e ga uge. Even if you are knitting with the recommended yarn and needle size, your ga uge may differ considerably from the ga uge of the designer.

Block the swatch enough to neaten up the stitches and spread the honeycombing as needed for the desired effect. Make sure opposite sides are parallel and the same length, and ilie corners are right angles. If your gauge swatch doesn't match the gauge specifi ed, knit another swatch using smaller or larger needles. This pi llow pattern was developed from a swatch of 35 sti tches.

Embroidered Smocking Directions Embroidered smocking is worked over more than one row at a time. It may go up and down between two rows or move in a diagonal Embroidered Smocking Pillow direction across the fa bric. For drawin gs of the embroidering process see Figures 6 and 7. Materials: needle from front to back, pinto back of Nashua CREATfVE FOCUS WORSTED loop. (3.Soz/ IO Og, 220yds/200m, 75% Wool, 25% M 1-Lp- make one left side purl: pick up Alpaca): 3 skeins #CFW.0282 Taupe Heather running thread before next st by inserting (MC) needle from back to fro nt, p into front of Noro GARDEN (l.76oz/50g, 108yds/ loop. l OO m, 45% Sil k, 45% Kid Mohair, I 0% Lamb's Wool): l skein #2l1 Turquoise, Provisional CO: With wy, a chain = = \ I \ Fuchsia, Gold (CC/embroidery yarn) as follows: first make a slipknot in your wy. = = Waste yarn (wy) for provisional CO Put the end of the crochet hook through tl1e ~~~~--~·~--~·~--~-~ Size 6 ( 4mm) needles or size needed to slipknot, tighten lightly, grab the yarn wi th Smocking Points Worked over Two Rows obtain correct gauge the hook, and draw a loop of yarn through Figure6 Spare Size 6 (4mm) needle fo r 3-Needle BO - one chain fo rmed. *Put the crochet hook Size G-6 (4mm) or larger crochet hook for through the chain loop just formed and provisional CO draw another loop through. Repeat from * Tapestry needle until you have at least one chain loop more Contrasting waste thread or thin yarn for than the required number of cast on stitches. = guide strands Cut yarn and pull tail through fi nal loop. \ 14" pillow form = With project yarn and needles, and starting \ = Gauge: at the knot end, pick up and knit a stitch In smocked p3, kl rib slightly stretched (see through each bump on the back of the chain \ = photos of pillow) 27 sts & 27 rows= 4"/10 until you have the required number of CO sts. cm. To save time, take time to check gauge. Smocking Points Worked Diagonally Preparation Figure 7 Special Abbreviations: Make a generous swatch when you are M 1-Rp- make one right side purl: pick up checki ng your gauge. Larger than 4" by 4" running thread before next st by inserting is probably a good idea. Allow for at least continued on page 38

www.TKGA.com 37 To add the strand as you go, work front next to the right-hand rib, insert the STITCH ANATOMY the stitches that will be in the back­ needle from left to right under the left-hand ground, then weave the guide strand rib then under the right-hand rib (see Figure through the stitch(es) that will be in IO) pull tight, then bring the yarn to the the foreground. For example, in this back to the left of the left-hand rib. continued from page 37 pillow you would purl 3 sts, then leaving a minimum 4" tail at the Your next smocking point is at the intersec­ back, *bring the guide strand to the tion of the next guideline up and the second front, knit the next stitch, bring the and third ribs from the right. Smock these guide strand to the back, purl the two ribs together as you did the first two. Some va riations of embroidered smocking next 3 stitches; repeat from ~ across. bring the smocking thread up inside the leg For this pillow, the next smocking point goes back down to the first guide strand and of a rib, others allow it to travel across the Step 2 -Add Embroidery: Your first smock­ gathers the third and fourth ribs. Continue back. This pillow allows it to travel across ing point is the intersection of the guide moving up and down along these two guide the back because the contrasting yarn would strand row and the first pair of ribs at the strands until you reach the left edge. show through the leg. It does, however, bottom right. catch the thread traveling across the back to Work the following levels in the same way, anchor it a little more securely. Splitting a TECHNICAL TIP then pull out all guide threads. stitch when you are catching it will help keep A 47" length of embroidery yarn will it hidden (see Figure 8). be enough to go across two rows at Em broidered Sm ocking Pillow Fron t a time (as in the following technique). and Back (Make 2) Step 1 - Make the Base Fabric: Work a rib­ Longer yarn will be harder to work Using provisional CO and MC, CO 75 sis. bing pattern; for this pillow it will be a p3. with and the extra pulling could Row I (WS): K2, 'pl, k3, pl, kl; rep from• kl rib. damage the fiber. to last st rem, k I . Row 2 (RS): P2, • k l, p3, kt, ml-Rp, pl, TECHNICAL TIP DESIGNER NOTE 111 l-Lp; rep from * to last 7 sts, kl, p3, kl. Make it easier to place the em­ A quick way to thread a needle with p2 - 97 SIS. broidery stitches by adding a guide yarn is to fold the yarn in half and Row 3: K2, •p I, k3; rep from *to last 3 sts, strand of lighter gauge, smooth push the folded end through. The pl, k2 . waste thread or yarn. You can use ends won't split and try to escape Row 4: P2, *k I, p3; rep from • to last 3 sts, a tapestry needle and mark the from the eye (see Figure 9). kl, p2. locations by counting, or you can add the guide strand as you knit With embroidery yarn threaded into a tap­ Rep Rows 3 & 4 until you have 97 rows in ­ the foundation fabric. estry needle, bring the yarn through to the cluding the row picked up out of the pro-

38 Cast011 · May - July 2010 Spare Size 6 (4mm) needle for 3-Needle BO Size G-6 (4mm) or larger crochet hook for provisional CO Tapestry needle 14" pillow fo rm

Gauge: Over Smocked k2, p2 Rib stretched, 26 sts & 30 rows= 4"/JO cm. (see photos of pillow) To save time, take time to check gauge.

Special Abb reviations: LHN - left hand needle rem- remain RHN - right hand needle

Pillow Front and Back (Make 2) Using provisional cast on, CO 72 sts. Row 1: (RS) P3, k2, *p2, k4; to last 7 sts, p2, kl, p3. Row 2: K3, "p2, k2, p2, move yarn to back, working into CO row directly below st just purled, with LHN pick up head of p-st (bottom to top) and kl, then k into head of p-st on row below next st (don't drop the p-st above) see Figure 1 l; rep from* to last Smocking Stitch Pillow 9 sts, p2, k2, p2, k3 - 92 sts. Row 3: (RS) P3, * k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p 1. visional CO. Add the first guide strand on Step 2- Work a Smocking Row: On the right the 7th row and the following guide strands side of the fabric, the right-hand needle every 6th row. Work 6 rows after the last passes over the two ribs to be ga thered and guide strand row, making sure you have used pulls up a loop from the back. Then the an odd number of guide strands. Then work resulting long loop (now a wrap) is knitted the last row as follows: (WS) K2, *p I, k3, pl, together with the firs t sti tch on the left-hand sl I k-wise, k2tog, psso; rep from " to last 7 needle. The rest of the wrapped stitches are sts, pl, k3, p l , k2 - 75 sts. knitted preserving the original k2, p2 rib.

Work embroidered smocking with CC. Smocking Stitch Pillow by Mary Forte Place all sts on wy or spare circ needle and work second side. Leave sts from second Yarn Symbol: Medium (4) Points piece on needle. Level of Experience: Easy Figure 11 SMOCKING STITCH PILLOW LESSON Finished Measurements: This pillow also uses a smaller needle than Width: 14" called for by the yarn manufacturer and a Length: 14" Row 4 and all following even numbered provisional cast on. rows: K3, " p2, k2; rep from " to last st, k I. Materials: Row 5: Rep Row 3. In contrast to the embroidered pillow, this Brown Sheep LAMB'S PRIDE WORSTED pi llow is smocked as the fab ric is formed. ( 4oz/l 13g, l 90yds/ l 73m, 85% Wool, 15% Mohair): 3 skeins #140 Aran Step 1 - Establish a Base Pattern: For this Size 6 (4mm) needles or size needed to smocking variation, you begin by working obtain correct gauge k2, p2 rib for several rows. Waste yarn (wy) for provisional CO continued on page 40

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www.TKGA.com 39 Finishing the Pillows Reverse Stockinette, and so on. Traditional STITCH ANATOMY Since the pillow will stretch out the fabric, smocking has the same amount of space the pieces don't really need , but between the rows and between the tubes/ if you want to smooth out or manipulate ribs, but vary the look by experimenting stitches you may choose to block lightly. with placement. continued from page 39 Join the top and bottom edges using a 3- Smocking Gauge Swatch Needle Bind Off. See Pattern Basics Section (See gauge worksheet in box) in the back of this issue. Be sure to make a generous sized swatch so Row 7: Pl, *' p2, m ove yarn to back, skip you can calculate the number of stitches over next 6 sts and, inserting RHN needle Finishing (Both Pillows) needed as accurately as possible. As with from the front, draw up a loop bet the 6th Block lightly if desired. checking gauge for a pattern, work a swatch and 7th sts, place it on LHN, k tog with next that measures at least 4" x 4" square after st, kl, p2, k2*; rep from** to last 3 sts, p3 DESIGNER NOTE gathering and blocking. Block it so that (see Figures 12 and 13). The smocking stitch pillow may the edges are squared off and parallel, and Rows 9: Rep Row 3. benefit from blocking if the pillow measure the height and width to within Row 11: P3, k2, work as Row 7 from ** to * form is not strong enough to spread an eighth of an inch. Do not include the to last 7 sts, p2, k.2, p3. the honeycomb pattern. selvedge stitches, CO or BO edges in the Rep Rows 5-12 until 11 pat reps have been measurements. Use the following gauge worked. Work Rows 5- 10 once more, then With wrong sides facing ea other, join top worksheet to determine the number of work a dee row as fo llows: P3, k2, *p2, kl, edge by working 3-Needle Bind Off. stitches per inch. ssk, k2tog, kl; rep from • to last 7 sts, p2, k2, p3 - 72 sts rem. SJ live sts from provisional COs of front Conclusion onto one needle and sts of back to another Smocking is a beautiful and uncomplicated Place all sts on wy or spare circ needle, and needle. With wrong sides facing ea other, technique. Use it to add color, shape, dimen­ work second side. Leave sts from second work 3-Needle Bind Off. sion and interest to your knitting. Most of piece on needle. all , have fun with it. TECHNICAL TIP On provisional COs, align the ribs References before you begin the 3-Needle Bind Hiatt, June Hemmons, The Principles of Off. You may wish to add an extra Knitting, Simon and Schuster, New York, stitch at the start of one piece to 1988. make them align better. Add an extra The Highveld Smackers Guild, stitch at the end if needed. www.smocking.org.za The Smocking Arts Guild of America, DESIGNER NOTE www.smocking.org The side seams of the model pillows Thom, Margaret, Smocking in Embroidery, are joined using mattress stitch. Drake Publishers, 1972 . Mattress stitch is worked from the Thomas, Mary Hedger, Mary Thomas's Knit­ right side and allows the pillow to be ting Book, Dover Publications, New York, stuffed before final seaming. The 1972. Reference Section in this magazine Stanley, Montse, Reader's Digest Knitter's provides sources for this technique. Handbook, Reader's Digest: Pleasantville, NY, 1993. Join one side seam. Weave in as many ends Vogue Knitting, The Ultimate Knitting Book, as possible. Fit pillow form into pillow, and Pantheon Books: New York, 1989. seam final side.

Weave in final end.

DESIGNING YOUR OWN PILLOW Smocking is often done on ribbing, k.2, p2 or k l, p3 as in the pillows above. You can try it over multiple ribs, on plain Stockinette,

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40 Cast0n · May- July2010 GAUGE WORKSHEET

I. Convert fractions of inches to decimals: (l/8=.125, l/4=.25, 3/8=.375, 1/2=.5, 5/8=.625, 3/4=.75, 7/8=.875)

2. To determine the stitches per inch of width, divide the number of stitches across the swatch by the width in inches of the swatch. Round to the first two digits after the decimal. Example: 31 sts + 4.125 =7.5 sts/ in

3. To determine the number of stitches needed for the width of the piece, multiply the sts/in by the desired width, and round up. Example: 7 sts/in x 14 in= 105 sts

4. Decide what stitch pattern you want (ex: k2, p2), and adjust the number of stitches to take the following into account:

a. pattern multiple - aim for complete pattern multiples, and remember to take into account that every row is offset from the one before. In effect, smocking over k2, p2 rib is actually a multiple of 8. You will also want to have an even number of ribs since they come together in pairs.

Divide the number of stitches needed for the width by the pattern multiple. Example: 105 sts + 8 st multiple= 13.125. This result indicates you can fit 13 full pattern multiples and you will have some stitches left over.

Round down the result from Step 4b to a whole number - that's the actual number of stitches required for the multiples. In our example, that's 104.

b. balancing stitches - add stitches at the end or beginning to give your smocking symmetrical placement. For example, a k2, p2 rib will start with a knit but end with a purl. To center the knit ribs instead, add 2 purls to the start. Example: 104 + 2 = 106

c. selvedge stitches - add a stitch to each side so that you have a place to sew the seams without crowding the multiples. Example: I 06 + 2 = 108

Optional: To match the width of the cast on edge with the width of the smocked rows, reduce the number of stitches between alternate pairs of ribs - the pairs that will be not be smocked on the first pass. You will then work increases between those ribs after the first row to get back to the number of stitches needed for the smocked width. (Remember to again in the row before the bind off row.)

5. To determine the number of rows per inch, divide the number of rows in the swatch by the height measurement. Round to the first two digits after the decimal. Example: 35 sts + 4 = 8.75 rows/in

6. To determine the number of rows needed to complete the piece, multiply the rows/in by the desired height, and round up. Example: 8. 75 sts/in x 14 = 122.5 sts =123 sts

www.TKGA.com 41