Bonus Feature: Included in effect making the fabric three dimensional. (see Figures l and 2). Don't use this tech­ Sometimes the needleworker marks the nique for your Master's swatches. this article is information fabric with dots to indicate where th e gatheri ng stitches will go. Smocking on fo r designing a pillow using knitted fabrics is easier because the rows different yarns, a different and columns of knit stitches make the ideal locations for the gathering stitches more pillow size or a variation of obvious. the pattern. Use smocking in your knitting to cinch in a neckline, waistline, or sleeves. Or use it to ABOUT SMOCKING add a decorative effect. Thought to have originated around the 13th or 14th century, smocking was used in SMOCKING TECHNIQUES peasant garments to gather the yokes and Knitted smocking most often creates a sleeves of loose fi tting garments -smocks. honeycomb effect and is done in a variety Colorful embroidery decorated the gathers of ways. The smocking effect can be applied and often indicated the town o r occupation after a piece is knitted or during the knit­ of the wearer. The Smocking Arts Guild of ting process. America defines smocking this way: "Deco­ rative stitchi ng across the tops of pleats. In the embroidery technique, a separate This stitching is used to decorate the surface, strand threaded onto a tapestry needle is to add texture and dimension, and/or as a used to draw columns of fabric together. means to control fullness of the fabric." This technique makes it easy to use a con­ The gathers are formed into diamond shapes trast color for the connecting stitches and (referred to as honeycombs) or tubes, in work over odd numbered row intervals continued on page 36 .......................... ........................................ ............................................................................. www.TKGA.com 35 SOLVING COMMON PROBLEMS with ribbing and cabling. To mitigate the STITCH ANATOMY Difficulties with smocking are generally problem, tug on the yarn when you bring it minor, but addressing the following will help fo rward before the purl. show off your handcrafting skills. Knitting literature offers many variations of continued from page 35 Inconsistent Wrap Sizes and Placement smocking techniques. The following pillow In embroidered smocking, control your patterns use versions of the embroidery wrap size by carefully observing where you technique and the smocking stitch. The wrapping, or clustering, technique typi­ are bringing up the needle next to and under cally involves slipping a group of stitches to a the rib columns. Avoid splitting surrounding EMBROIDERED SMOCKING cable needle or spare double-pointed needle, stitches on the front side of the work. Guide PILLOW LESSON wrapping them with the working yarn, then strands, as described later in this ar.ticle, will This pillow pattern uses a smaller needle size than that recommended by the yarn slipping them back to the right hand needle help with consistent placement as well. manufacturer. In a pillow, denser fabric will to be worked in the established pattern. give the pillow more body and durability. Sometimes however the stitches are worked In working the smocking stitch, practice The pillow starts with a provisional cast on and then wrapped (see Figure 3). will usually help with getting the wrap sizes so that the bottom seam can be joined with consistent. In your gauge swatch, pay close a 3-Needle Bind Off. The top will also be Using the smocking stitch allows the knitter attention to how tightly together you are joined with a 3-Needle Bind Off. to skip both the tapestry needle and the squeezing the gathered stitches. If you are cable needle. It is worked by skipping over a using a cable needle when wrapping, keep Pattern Information few stitches and drawing up a loop with the the right hand needle close to the wrapping You will find the pattern directions in the left hand needle. This loop wraps around so extra length doesn't sneak in. fo llowing in blue. Each is introduced by the front to gather the stitches then is knit an explanation of the directions along with together with the first of the skipped stitches Inconsistent Wrap Style techn ique tips. Also incl uded are pattern (see Figures 4 and 5). Decide before you begin wrapping whether specifications and a suggested materials list. you want the wraps crossed or parallel. You Yarn Choice can always go back later and manipulate Embroidered Smocking Pillow A fine gauge yarn is often recommended them into place with a needle tip, but try to by Mary Forte fo r garments using smocking because the always wrap the same way to save yourself gathering can cause the fabric to become time. A good time to adjust the wrap is right Yarn Symbol: Medium (4) quite thick. The more stitches included in after the final knit stitch of a cluster. Level of Experience: Intermediate the gathers, the "deeper" the fabric will be. As with most fancy stitch patterns, smock­ Over-Large Stitch at the K-to-P Transition Finished Measurements: ing will be easier to see on a smooth, light­ Distorted or over-large stitches where knits Width: 14" colored yarn. change to purls is a common problem Length: 14" .....••.•• .•• ..• •.•• ••••.••••• •••••••••••.... ...........•.........•.......................•.....•.............................•..•.••.•• •••.. 36 Cast On• May- July 2010 ' '1 4 gathers (8 ribs) across, more for finer gauge yarn. The smocking may draw in as m uch as one-third of ilie width, and the tightness of the wrap or smocking stitch will also affect tl1e ga uge. Even if you are knitting with the recommended yarn and needle size, your ga uge may differ considerably from the ga uge of the designer. Block the swatch enough to neaten up the stitches and spread the honeycombing as needed for the desired effect. Make sure opposite sides are parallel and the same length, and ilie corners are right angles. If your gauge swatch doesn't match the gauge specifi ed, knit another swatch using smaller or larger needles. This pi llow pattern was developed from a swatch of 35 sti tches. Embroidered Smocking Directions Embroidered smocking is worked over more than one row at a time. It may go up and down between two rows or move in a diagonal Embroidered Smocking Pillow direction across the fa bric. For drawin gs of the embroidering process see Figures 6 and 7. Materials: needle from front to back, pinto back of Nashua CREATfVE FOCUS WORSTED loop. (3.Soz/ IO Og, 220yds/200m, 75% Wool, 25% M 1-Lp- make one left side purl: pick up Alpaca): 3 skeins #CFW.0282 Taupe Heather running thread before next st by inserting (MC) needle from back to fro nt, p into front of Noro SILK GARDEN (l.76oz/50g, 108yds/ loop. l OO m, 45% Sil k, 45% Kid Mohair, I 0% Lamb's Wool): l skein #2l1 Turquoise, Provisional CO: With wy, crochet a chain = = \ I \ Fuchsia, Gold (CC/embroidery yarn) as follows: first make a slipknot in your wy. = = Waste yarn (wy) for provisional CO Put the end of the crochet hook through tl1e ~~~~--~·~--~·~--~-~ Size 6 ( 4mm) needles or size needed to slipknot, tighten lightly, grab the yarn wi th Smocking Points Worked over Two Rows obtain correct gauge the hook, and draw a loop of yarn through Figure6 Spare Size 6 (4mm) needle fo r 3-Needle BO - one chain fo rmed. *Put the crochet hook Size G-6 (4mm) or larger crochet hook for through the chain loop just formed and provisional CO draw another loop through. Repeat from * Tapestry needle until you have at least one chain loop more Contrasting waste thread or thin yarn for than the required number of cast on stitches. = guide strands Cut yarn and pull tail through fi nal loop. \ 14" pillow form = With project yarn and needles, and starting \ = Gauge: at the slip knot end, pick up and knit a stitch In smocked p3, kl rib slightly stretched (see through each bump on the back of the chain \ = photos of pillow) 27 sts & 27 rows= 4"/10 until you have the required number of CO sts. cm. To save time, take time to check gauge. Smocking Points Worked Diagonally Preparation Figure 7 Special Abbreviations: Make a generous swatch when you are M 1-Rp- make one right side purl: pick up checki ng your gauge. Larger than 4" by 4" running thread before next st by inserting is probably a good idea. Allow for at least continued on page 38 www.TKGA.com 37 To add the strand as you go, work front next to the right-hand rib, insert the STITCH ANATOMY the stitches that will be in the back­ needle from left to right under the left-hand ground, then weave the guide strand rib then under the right-hand rib (see Figure through the stitch(es) that will be in IO) pull tight, then bring the yarn to the the foreground. For example, in this back to the left of the left-hand rib. continued from page 37 pillow you would purl 3 sts, then leaving a minimum 4" tail at the Your next smocking point is at the intersec­ back, *bring the guide strand to the tion of the next guideline up and the second front, knit the next stitch, bring the and third ribs from the right. Smock these guide strand to the back, purl the two ribs together as you did the first two. Some va riations of embroidered smocking next 3 stitches; repeat from ~ across. bring the smocking thread up inside the leg For this pillow, the next smocking point goes back down to the first guide strand and of a rib, others allow it to travel across the Step 2 -Add Embroidery: Your first smock­ gathers the third and fourth ribs.