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c A Quarterly Newsletter Published by Vol. 27, No. 1 g the University of California Cooperative Extension Winter 2020 and the UC Master Gardeners of Placer and Nevada Counties In This Issue Is Your Soil the Cause of Is Your Soil the Cause of Your Plant’s Problems? Your Plant’s Problems? 1 by Jan Birdsall, UC Master Gardener of Placer County BotLat: Culinary Terms 2 Are you thinking your plant dam- Shade Garden Conditions 3 age is not just pest related, or have you eliminated disease as the source All-Star: Poker Plant 5 of your issue? Considering biotic dis- Frost Protection 5 orders, caused by living organisms such as infectious diseases and/or ar- How to Prune California thropod pests, might be the first step Native Plants 6 in your investigation, but those are not The December Garden 7 the only sources of plant damage. The other culprits are abiotic disorders, Hotline FAQ: Transplanting which occur when environmental fac- Heritage Roses 8 tors develop, such as weather related, human error or soil issues. This article Elderberry 9 will look at soil issues including soil Dormant Fruit Tree Care 9 compaction, nutrient deficiencies and pH imbalances. Events Calendar 10 Whether due to high traffic or high clay composition, soil compaction pre- vents good root growth, drainage, and aeration, which in turn obstructs the plant roots from getting the needed air, water and nutrients to grow and develop. Aera- tion and avoiding foot traffic on wet or dry garden bed areas will help as well using mulch on the soil surface. However, for serious compaction, your garden beds should likely be amended with compost, worm castings, or aged or composted animal manure. Nutrient deficiencies are common but are normally solvable. In California, nitrogen is naturally low in most of our soils. There could be other nutrient defi- ciencies in the soil as well; therefore, testing your soil is a way to help find out and potentially solve this problem. Although there are over-the-counter soil test kits, we recommend sending your soil sample to a lab for a full soil analysis. In California, soil typically is between pH 5.0 to 8.3. Disproportionate acid- ity or alkalinity inhibits certain nutrients from being absorbed in the soil and can Continued on next page Website: http://ceplacernevada.ucdavis.edu Continued from previous page agri-cola, ae m tiller of the field, farmer, husbandman release other nutrients and minerals in caulis, is m stalk, stem of a plant; cabbage colo, colui, cultum 3 to care for; a) to till, cultivate, toxic amounts. For maximum nutrient farm; b) to tend; adj. cultus 3 cultivated, tilled (cul- absorption, the soil should be slightly ta, orum n/pl tilled land, gardens, plantations), cresco, crevi,(cretum) 3 to grow acidic at pH 6.5 to 6.8, which can be cultus m cultivation, labor, tilling; a) cultivated land; ascertained by testing your soil with a b) care, training, education; c) culture, civilization, florens, tis blooming, flowering, flourishing lab test or do-it-yourself kit. In general, floreo, ui 2 to bloom, blossom. lime products like “Oystershell lime” flos, oris m flower, blossom fodio, fossom 3 to dig, dig up can be used to increase soil pH while folium, i n leaf; foliage herba, ae f grass, blade, herb, herbage, turf soil sulfur and compost are used to hortus, i m garden; pl. park. lower high pH. radix f root; a) radish; b) lower part, foot. viridis, e green; fresh, youthful. Determining the solution to your vita, ae f life Corner plant’s problem takes learning to be- xylem come a garden detective! zephyBotLat Find Out What Those References Weird Plant Names Mean • Proctor, Martha. Garden Soil Needs a Healthy Balance: How by Peggy Beltramo, UC Master Gardener of Placer County soil pH affects availability of Winter weather means less time in the garden and that leaves more time in the plant nutrients. University of kitchen, so let’s look at BotLat words for plants used in recipes, namely herbs. California Marin Master Garden- There are several specific epithets (descriptive second word of a plant name) ers. 2019. http://marinmg.ucanr. commonly used for edible plants. Let’s take them in alphabetical order. edu/Great_Gardening_Infor- First, officinalis which comes from Latin, meaning ‘of the officina,’ which was mation/Gardening_Tips_Tech- the storeroom in a monastary where provisions and medicines were kept. For in- niques_and_Terminology/ stance Melissa officinalis, or lemon balm, is a common herb plant with lemony Gardening_Basics/Garden_ leaves. The genus of this plant, Melissa, comes from the Greek for honeybee. Other Soil_Needs_a_Health_Balance/ herbs with this epithet are Zingiber officinale (ginger), and Calendula officinalis, • Questions and Answers (pot marigold). Note: a specific epithet matches the gender of its genus word, so two about Soils and Fertilizer in different forms—officinalis and officinale. the Garden. University of Next in line is sativum, meaning ‘cultivated.’ An example is Coriandrum sati- California, The California vum, which is actually two herbs: the plant’s strong-scented foliage (cilantro) and Garden Web, Vegetables its aromatic seeds (coriander). The genus, Coriandrum, comes from Greek, kori- and Sustainable. n.d. http:// andron, referring to the unpleasant smell of its unripe fruits. Two other ‘cultivated’ cagardenweb.ucanr.edu/ culinary plants are: Allium sativum (garlic) and Avena sativa (oats). Vegetables/?uid=26&ds=462 Finally, we come to vulgaris, which translates as ‘common.’ The first herb,Foe - niculum vulgare (fennel), is typically grown in vegetable and herb gardens for its anise-flavored foliage and seeds. The genus name comes from the Latin name for this traditional salad and potherb which, in Italian, is called finocchio. Other com- mon herbs include: Thymus vulgaris (thyme) and Beta vulgaris (beets.) So now, when you encounter one of these specific epithets in a BotLat name, you will know that it has edible or herbal properties, somewhere in its past. Let’s go cook something. Reference: • Plant Finder. Missouri Botanical Garden. https://www.missouribotani- calgarden.org/plantfinder/plantfinder- search.aspx • Stearn, William T. Stearn’s Dictionary of Plant Names for Gardeners. Cas- sell Publishers Limited. 1992. The Curious Gardener ~Winter 2020 2 UCCE Placer and Nevada Counties Remember to Update Footer Issue Info! Master and last pages Site Conditions of a Shade Garden Article and photos by Annette Wyrick, UC Master Gardener of Placer County Most gardeners have one trouble spot in the garden and it is almost always in the shade. You may have tried planting different plants, but they just do not thrive. Let’s tackle these tricky garden spots by choosing plants that will! Sun ex- posure and the physical properties of your soil are key factors of planting success. The first step to selecting plants is to evaluate your garden. A plot plan is useful as a base for mapping your plants and it will indicate which direction is north. If you don’t have a plot plan of your property, a hand drawn outline of structures on your property will do. A quick map search online will show you how your property sits in relation to north. So why is knowing which direction is north in your garden important? It will help you understand sun exposure in your planting areas. There are multiple degrees of sun exposure from full sun to full shade. As you take an inventory of your garden, note the sun exposure levels described in Table 1. Before you move to the next step of plant selection, it must be brought to your attention that the amount of sunlight a location receives will change throughout the year. For example, it is the middle of winter and you noted on your garden map a planting area that receives full shade. A structure will cast the most shade in winter when the sun is at a lower angle to the horizon. During summer, the sun is at a much higher angle to the horizon and the shadow will be much shorter. In summer, your full shade bed may have full sun if there aren’t any other trees TABLE 1: Sun Exposure Defined or structures nearby to provide shade. Full Sun 6 + hours of sun a day The most common shady garden areas are north and east sides of struc- Partial Sun 4 to 6 hours of sun a day, shaded during the most intense sun tures and under structures and trees. Partial Shade 4 to 6 hours of morning sun, with shade the rest of the day Some examples of residential struc- Dappled Sun Receives a mix of sun and shade throughout the day tures are house walls, fences, pergolas, Full Shade Receives very little direct sunlight decks, and sheds. The amount of shade beneath a tree depends on the density of its canopy. In general, you will have dappled shade under trees and partial sun to partial shade on the east side of a structure. You may have a shade garden with a combination of these areas. For example, you may have some shrubs planted References: along the east side of your house and a tree that shades them too. These shrubs • Bornstein, Carol, David Fross, will most likely be in a full shade zone. and Bart O’Brien. California Na- Next, it is time to take a closer look at the soil. Some physical properties of tive Plants for the Garden. Los soil include structure, texture, and moisture content. Soil structure is the arrange- Olivos: Cachuma Press, 2015. ment of groups of soil particles. A soil that has good structure contains pores for air, water, and nutrients to move through. Roots can grow through soil with good • Lichter, John, Ellen Zagory and structure easily.

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