that they are a bit under-rigged for light-wind for Ingeborg summer conditions. Another day, another boat by Arne Kverneland Enter Ingeborg (June 2014). When seeing Ingeborg for the first time, she stood out clearly from most of her sisters. I have been on board a number of IFs. Now, around 40 years after they I didn’t have to do this - converting yet another boat derivatives, the IF did not end up as “the big fat were new, their state of repair varies greatly. Ingeborg to junk rig. I already have a good boat for my kind of sister”. Indeed, she appears longer and sleeker, if was close to the end of a total refurbishment job when , that is, pottering around within a 10-20 mile anything, and she is slightly faster. Still, by modern I bought her. Her inner lining had been completely radius from my harbour. Frøken Sørensen , a 6.5m standards, I wouldn’t call the IF a really fast boat. Her renewed, absolutely everywhere, with new window dinghy with a cuddy, has served me fine since 2013, theoretical hull speed is just about 6.0kts, and if one frames and mattresses. All the inner woodwork and could still do so. However, Ingeborg , or rather, the pushes her to 7kts, she will dig up an impressive stern appears to have been removed, then re-varnished and Marieholm International Folkboat (IF) has always wave, so you can forget any dreams about surfing at reinstalled, etc, etc. Same with the outside, including been on my to-do list. I simply had to do it. The 10 or 12 knots in her. The Folkboats’ forte is to sail to new sails, running and standing rigging. And, nota reason is not that the IF is such a rare bird. Quite the windward and keep going in conditions when lighter bene - She was and she still is dust-dry in her bilges, contrary, the fact that over 3,400 of them have been fin-keel designs will struggle. The key to this is the my first boat ever to be that. built is a reason in itself. Besides, the IF is the loveliest combination of slim lines, heavy keel and big keel of all the boats in the Folkboat category. area. The long keel may look old-fashioned, but for The problem was that it took a while before I dared to such a small boat, which is to sail along a rocky touch her. Ingeborg actually looked too smart. Any The design. coastline, this is a blessing: An IF lets one reef, and carpentry to her inside, done by me, would ruin her I When Tord Sundén designed the IF, back in 1967, he then reef more, and will still sail to windward, thanks felt. based it very much on his Nordic Folkboat design to her trim under-water lines, her low-windage deck (NF) from the forties. The original NF was clinker- profile, and that big, heavy keel. One can thus So I started on what I thought I knew something built, mostly from pine on oak, and when measured, deliberately reef conservatively to make life bearable about. came in at a LOA of 7.68m, a displacement of on board, and still keep clear of a lee shore, while on a 1,930kg, with 1,000kg ballast in her long keel. It was small fin-keeler one must press on to keep the keel Designing the sail given a very simple yet ingenious Bermudan rig, from stalling. First job was to design a . As with all my which still lets one trim the as with modern As can be seen, the IF has a big rudder on the stern, boats, I try to find a place for the mast which results yachts. The cockpit is nice and deep - and self-filling and the keel has a cut-away profile at the forward in minimal work and alterations to the interior. I also if one pushes her way too hard. The original cabin is end. This ensures both quick manoeuvring and lets prefer to step the mast through the flat foredeck if I small and dark - and sometimes damp. one get away without a bowsprit. In other words, this can. As the deck is strong, little structural work is keel profile combines the best aspects of long keels needed. This thinking inevitably forces the sails to be With the IF, Sundén switched to GRP, and made the and fin keels. quite broad, to shift the CE aft, but on the other hand, cockpit self-bailing. The length grew to 7.87m, the it lets me set a healthy sail area on a moderately short displacement to 2,150kg and the ballast to 1,250kg, The forward rake of the rudder is not accidental. It mast. Such a JR calls for a big and efficient giving a ballast ratio of no less than 58%. The IF is still keeps the rudder from lifting the stern when the rudder - just what Ingeborg has. (See diagram on a trim boat with a rather small and low cabin, but at boat’s sailing on her ear - which these babies love to page opposite). This setup also means that the mast is least it is much brighter inside, and it keeps one warm do. All an IF needs to be complete, is a large junk rig. stepped right through the forward double bunk, but I and dry. Many boatbuilders have tried to copy or That cures the general problem of the Folkboats - have decided I can live with that. The thick wooden improve the Nordic Folkboat, but unlike other NF- masts I have had on former boats certainly took up

Page 34 The JRA Magazine issue 72 October 2016 some space, but they were warm to the touch, so did cruising. Ingeborg’s sailplan is the first I have made I decided to make and finish the sail in two separate no harm. The aluminium mast for Ingeborg takes up which is based on one from my range of master sections. The lower section consisted of all the less space, but feels very cold and hard, so I guess I sailplans; the one with AR= 1.90. I simply followed parallelogram panels (4-7) and then there was the top will make a sort for jacket for it, some day. my own instruction in Chapter 4 of The Cambered section (panels 1-3). I started with the lower Panel Junk Rig (TCPJR), and scaled the master sail section. The resulting sail plan shows a sail of 35.2sqm, which down until the batten length was crimped to 4.90m. gives a sail area to displacement ratio of 21.5 or Apart from using the standard Johanna style sailplan, Job number one was to move away some furniture to 16.4sqm/metric ton. Perfect for coastal summer based on the work of Hasler and McLeod, I used my give room for lofting. I have found that making paper barrel method to achieve around 8% camber in the templates for the panels makes sense, even in the top horizontal panels. The top panels were as usual cut panels, where they can only be used once. As photo much flatter, but still with a bit of camber in them. above shows, the canvas (Odyssey III) was wide This ensures that the loads are on the luff and leech, enough to cover the lower panels. I always cut the which keeps them from fluttering templates to the net size of the panels, and allowance for hems etc. is then drawn onto the cloth before cutting.

When panel 7 had been cut out, I could re-use the pattern for the three others. Actually, I prefer to sew any new batten panel onto the previous one before I cut out the next, although it may be more efficient to do all the cutting in one run. Thanks to the use of my Amateur Method B; a simple tailor’s seam, the heavily rounded panel edges are easy to sew together (photo below).

Template made and rolled out to mark up the lowest panel. The cloth was by chance just wide enough...

Constructing the sail. (I suggest you look up TCPJR, Chapter 5) Just as for the sail of Broremann and Frøken Sørensen , I made Ingeborg’s sail in my living room. It surely was a Joining two panels along the batten, Using an Diagram showing Ingeborg’s original rig and the new squeeze, this time. ordinary tailor’s seam. This, being a part of the sail plan “Amateur Method B” saves pushing lots of cloth under the arm of the sewing machine.

October 2016 The JRA Magazine issue 72 Page 35 Before starting on the top section, I had a go at The procedure for making the top section was much producing batten pockets (photo below). the same as for the lower one, with two exceptions. Since each panel differed from the next, I had to make three different patterns. In addition, I had to add some cloth to the upper corner of each panel (photo below). For this, I found it very useful to have the template ready. That let me add a slightly oversized patch to the cloth, before putting on the template again, marking up the panel, adding for hems etc. and then cutting it out. Note that these little corners were the only cloth that had to be passed inside the Staple-basting two panels together along the edge. arm of the sewing machine. I find this to be the main advantage with my primitive amateur’s method of sail construction. I just have to use a stapler for basting those edges together first (Photo above). And, yes, I fit a simple 20mm hem along the outer edges before joining the The temporary table was handy for odd jobs. Here panels along the battens. the pocket gap cover strips have been prefabricated.

With the lower section assembled, but with no The after pockets were of the original sail canvas, finishing details added yet, I wrapped it up and put it while the foreward pockets at the mast were of thick, aside (photo below) white PVC. The pockets came in two sizes as the two upper battens were of thicker section than the lower ones. There was also another set of canvas strips produced - the pocket gap cover strips (photo below). These protect the raw edges of the panel joining seams where there are no batten pockets.

Panel 2 from top. The three top panels need to have a corner added as the cloth is not wide enough. These (triple) seams can be spotted on the sailing photo.

The assembled, but not finished panel 4-7 (from top) is put aside to let me start on the top section.

Here are the forward batten pockets, cut from PVC.

Page 36 The JRA Magazine issue 72 October 2016 Soon the top section was assembled (photo below). Luckily, there was still a lot left on the webbing roll... The batten pockets also had to come on before the (photo below) batten end loops could be fitted. This is a quite critical job: A minor error can result in a tight spot where the batten will not pass through, so all pockets were checked with a piece of tube of the right size. With the pockets in place and with a batten stub inserted, it was easy to get the big batten loops aligned (photo below).

The top section before adding more details to it. The still quite big roll of 2” webbing, ready to make bolt rope and loops from.

Before racing through the fun and easy job; triple- stitching on the webbing type boltrope, the pocket As the more serious loops were to go on, I again gap cover strips were carefully positioned and sewed erected my temporary table, to cut out and fuse all the on. I try to get that seam right over the panel joining big and small loops (photo below). seam. Then the webbing boltrope is added, and the peak loop (photo below). Details at the luff, using a stub of dummy batten to align the loops with the battens.

The very first loop fitted to the sail, at the peak. Loops in the process of production

October 2016 The JRA Magazine issue 72 Page 37 In addition to the big loops at each batten end, I fitted batten pockets, cover strips and loops had shrunk - to So far, so good. Next time I’ll tell you about the mast, a smaller, black one which later was to be tied to the just the number I needed. The webbing boltropes had about rigging details and how Ingeborg likes her new batten (photo below). I also fitted such small black been cut with some overlap, so they were stitched up dress. as soon as the pocket gap cover strips had come on. Then - with the last loops fitted - JOB DONE! Ingeborg’s full sailplan can be found on this page: Needless to say, that is a real hurray moment. http://www.junkrigassociation.org/ arne ..where six chapters of TCPJR also may be The construction of this 35sqm sail only lasted from found useful. 29.12.14 to 13.1.15. I guess I may have spent anything between 40 and 60 hours on it. You can also find more photos from the making of Ingeborg’s sail in my JRA member’s album. Be my guest!

Detail at the leech, a big and little loop at each batten end. loops along the head (and later the foot) of the sail. With these jobs done on the top section, I could bring out the lower section and finish it in much the same way. Then, finally it was time to staple the two sections together along batten 3 (next photo) and sew the two halves together. Now my store of prefab

The finished sail, all 35.2m 2 of it, weighing in at 12.4kg

Stapling together the upper and lower section along Mission accomplished! (..the easy part of it...) batten 3 from top.

Page 38 The JRA Magazine issue 72 October 2016