BRAIN B RAIN FOOD BRAIN FOOD BRAIN FOOD B R A IN FOOD BRAIN FOOD BRAIN FOOD

WHEN A CULINARY DREAM TEAM announced they were raising money on Kickstarter to self- publish a biographical cookbook called Unforgettable: Bold Flavors from Paula Wolfert’s Renegade Life, food world illuminati rushed to back the project, rallying around Paula as word spread of her dementia. In Part 1 of the following story, cookbook author Peggy Knickerbocker shares tales of the making of Unforgettable and Paula’s influence on the country’s culinary awakening. In Part 2, we distill the emerging science from the next frontier in food—the gut–brain connection—and share a plan for what to eat for better cognition, focus, and mental health. We conclude with a tool kit of resources for anyone who wants to know more about the aging brain. Why now? Paula’s story inspired us to take a deeper look at Alzheimer’s prevention and advocacy through the lens of food. Too much about the country’s sixth-most fatal disease remains a mystery. A healthier diet is not a cure-all, but com- bined with sleep and exercise, it’s a great place to start. As Knickerbocker writes about her friend’s experience, “There’s hope in taking charge.”—HUNTER LEWIS

NOVEMBER 2016 LIGHT 167 BRAIN FOOD PART 1 PPAULAAULA WWOLFERTOLFERT at the enormous kitchen island in her home in the hills above Sonoma, A RENEGADE’S LAST STAND California. A RENEGADE’S LAST STAND A RENEGADE’S LAST STAND A RENEGADE’S LAST STAND A RENEGADE’S LAST STAND A RENEGADE’S LAST STAND A RENEGADE’S LAST STAND A RENEGADE’S LAST STAND A RENEGADE’S LAST STAND A RENEGADE’S LAST STAND A RENEGADE’S LAST STAND A RENEGADE’S LAST STAND A RENEGADE’S LAST STAND A RENEGADE’S LAST STAND

CULINARY LEGEND PAULA WOLFERT FIGHTS A SPIRITED BATTLE AGAINST ALZHEIMER’S USING FOOD, FRIENDS, AND LAUGHTER AS MEDICINE.

STORY BY PEGGY KNICKERBOCKER PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIC WOLFINGER

NOVEMBER 2016 COOKING LIGHT 169 pesto, for instance, or they might argue A DIAGNOSIS made an appointment with a nutri- At age seven, after her that a true Genovese pesto could only tionist, Sharon Meyer, an associate grandparents moved to be made with the tiny leaves of basil of Madison’s, who approved of Paula’s from Liguria. Paula would say to use [Bill Bayer] felt drawn well-researched regimen. Paula read Manhattan, she ran away what we had on hand and not to take to Paula’s strength, which blogs and newsletters in support of to their Midtown apartment pesto making too seriously. belied her vulnerability. her newly found dietary path. [See by riding the subway. Her While she never nitpicked the size “A Tool Kit of Resources,” page 190.] of a basil leaf, Paula went to pains- “She had children to Since no real cure has yet been grandmother lovingly taking lengths to document authentic support, and she’d made discovered, Paula did what she knew played along, “hiding” her recipes from the source. There was a a career out of basically best: She treated food as medicine. in the basement and telling gentle joke among her food writer Paula was never comfortable with friends that Saveur magazine had nothing,” he recalled. physical exertion. In 2000, you would her she’d feed her onion asked for 600 words on the canelé de “She was a powerhouse. have thought she had run a marathon sandwiches. (“They’ll smell Bordeaux, which she described as Aggressive, but not in walking a few blocks from our hotel in me out!” the young Paula “a magical bakery confection, a cake Bologna, Italy, to the opening ceremony with a rich custardy interior enclosed an off-putting way. There of a Slow Food conference. She begged protested.) But that night by a thin caramelized shell.” But was something about for water, her face grew bright red, and Bertha took her back Paula learned so much, having become her eyes. There was a she panted along the way. So when she to Brooklyn. Concerned friendly with a secret brotherhood told me recently she jogged daily for of Bordeaux bakers, that she sent in vulnerability in them, 30 minutes on a treadmill, I didn’t about her reckless behavior, thousands of words. which was at odds with believe her. “Not only that,” she said, her mother sent her to a She sought “Big Taste . . . food that her brassy personality.” “I also take yoga and qigong classes, preeminent psychiatrist, is deeply satisfying and that appeals to and I meditate.” all the senses,” as described in Paula EMILY KAISER THELIN, Unforgettable: Bold Paula also finds comfort in a social a relative, who told her Wolfert’s World of Food. As we became Flavors from Paula Wolfert’s Renegade Life routine. She organized a local Memory parents, “She’s a renegade. close, we were both testing recipes for Café (a spot for people with memory Do not worry about her.” our cookbooks, my first and her fifth. loss to support each other and socialize), I’ll never forget bringing her a taste of NE DAY in 2013, Paula and she meets weekly with six women EMILY KAISER THELIN, Unforgettable: Bold romesco. She put the roasted pepper told me her memory had for “Lunch Bunch.” She traveled to Flavors from Paula Wolfert’s Renegade Life sauce in her mouth, closed her eyes, O been perilously slipping, Washington, D.C., as a spokeswoman and said, “Are you in love with the so she’d gone in for tests. for the Alzheimer’s Association to flavors? I mean madly in love?” If I I called to hear the outcome: It was as discuss the importance of getting HERE WAS PAULA hesitated, even for a second, she’d say, she’d suspected. Catherine Madison, tested, taking medication to slow the Wolfert—queen of couscous, “Dump it.” The recipe stayed inOlive MD, a San Francisco neurologist spe- cognitive decline, and speaking out doyenne of Mediterranean Oil: From Tree to Table. She was oblivi- cializing in dementia and now director for a cure. “You can’t be ashamed; you T and Middle Eastern cooking, ous to the ways like this in which she of the Ray Dolby Brain Health Center, have to come out and fight,” Paula five-time James Beard Award–winning helped my career. She’d never let me detected mild cognitive impairment, insisted. She treated her diagnosis with author—disembarking my long flight call her my mentor because it carried a precursor to Alzheimer’s disease, in the same vigor she put forth when we to Casablanca, Morocco. Paula was my too much weight. Anointed by Paula, Paula’s MRI. traveled thousands of miles to Spain to Julia Child, M. F. K. Fisher, and Elizabeth Back home, we became fast friends. PAULA REVIEWS a recipe from her I was on a fast track to my master’s “I’m not one to feel sorry for myself,” track down the production of Bomba David all wrapped into one, and I was From the first time I picked her up seminal 1983 book The Cooking of degree in gastronomic writing. Paula told me then. “Besides, I’d rice, the ideal grain for making paella. standing beside her, by chance, in 1994, to go to a Spanish restaurant on Southwest France. And then after a few years, yearn- already done my homework and had She was serious about slowing down along with a couple hundred chefs and Russian Hill, where we both lived, ing for a taste of country living, Paula been studying alternative treatments the disease. food writers. I, the newcomer to food she was open and funny. I ate her and Bill bought a contemporary for dementia on the Web,” especially After the diagnosis, I put off visiting writing, was charmed to be listening to words. I loved her upbeat energy, cardoons. Alice Waters invited her to house in a wooded enclave above the work of Dale E. Bredesen, MD, because of my own self-centered fear. I her greet and gossip with her cohorts. her inquisitiveness, her immediacy. dinners at Chez Panisse and parties at Sonoma. She’d had it with San of the Buck Institute for Research on had some skin in the game, too: I’d seen “Hey,” she said, squinting at my Since she didn’t drive, I took her her house. “Why is everybody being so Francisco’s hills, the wind and fog. Aging and UCLA’s Alzheimer’s research my brilliant drama critic father’s debil- name tag. “We both write for the same grocery shopping and to the Ferry nice to me around here?” Paula, the She’d grown weary of all the dinners center. Paula immediately embarked on itating demise as a result of Alzheimer’s magazine.” She immediately made me Plaza Farmers Market weekly. There, former New Yorker, would ask. She sat and lunches, the constant chatter her own improvised dietetic therapy. In in 1985, and that, too, of his rosy- feel like a colleague. As the line inched young chefs timidly approached her to on culinary panels where she shared about food. She was ready to make her research on the effects of nutrition cheeked Irish mother in the mid-’60s. along, we found we were neighbors in extend an invitation to their fledgling generously and injected moments of new friends who didn’t cook and to on brain function, Paula contacted I’d been in an inter mittent state of San Francisco, where she and her restaurants. Farmers familiar with her much-needed humor when topics got immerse herself in the politics of doctors who believed in the significance alarm ever since about my brother’s husband, best-selling crime novelist proclivity for hard-to-find vegetables too earnest. Scholars would debate the the Democratic party. I missed her of nutritional therapies, not unlike and my chances of inheriting the gene. William “Bill” Bayer, had recently and herbs offered her uncommon dire need for the use of mortars and terribly. Even if she was only an hour Hippocrates, who around 400 B.C. said, Before too long, I called to make a moved from Connecticut. green vegetables such as purslane and pestles over food processors for making away, it wasn’t the same. “All disease begins in the gut.” She date. She was her same enthusiastic

170 COOKING LIGHT NOVEMBER 2016 NOVEMBER 2016 COOKING LIGHT 171 self—happy and dying to talk about she’d found this job she’d The team culled iconic recipes from her new regimen. It came as little worked as a janitor at a school, Paula’s award-winning cookbooks (see surprise, as we ate our wild salmon and “A Paula Wolfert Reader,” page 174) sautéed greens at an outdoor table on her young son strapped to and those in line with her current diet. the square of Sonoma, that yes, her her back. Malika and Paula They wanted to tell the incredible stories memory loss was apparent in that she joked, they hugged. Paula behind Paula’s canon of cookbooks, to couldn’t remember names. But who gave her a tomato peeler as show how far ahead she had been. It cared? She remembered mine. Her was heartening that a younger genera- skin glowed and she looked fit and a thank-you gift. By the time tion felt the significance of Paula’s life healthy. As I drove home after an the noodles steamed, they vital enough to preserve it in one final espresso and a tiny square of dark seemed like grandmother book, for all generations. “We wanted chocolate at her house, I felt uplifted. and granddaughter. Moreover, to showcase the timelessness and I was filled with a hope that verged on modernity of her recipes,” Thelin told joy. It was a foggy day gone sunny. a kind of otherworldly, me. “We’ve all been inspired by Paula’s Instead of letting her news get me down, almost holy glow pulsed in the depth of knowledge, her bravery about I felt emboldened: The fact that Paula room. Paula started to cry. her medical situation, her humor and created a program to outfox the odds We all started to cry. kindness. Everyone is somehow of her diagnosis made me feel I could touched by Alzheimer’s and our team do it, too, if I got the same diagnosis “That’s how I wrote all is no different.” one day. There’s hope in taking charge. of my books!” Paula said. The project thrilled Paula. But there “Hugging, kissing, and were days when she wished she didn’t measuring spoons.” have to sift through her memory to ONE LAST BOOK answer questions, especially related to I suspect that Paula’s her illness or other unhappy topics. As When we pulled up to the cookbooks are so exceptional she started to write the book, Thelin woman’s suburban develop- because she bonds with said she found it difficult to return to ment, I was skeptical. But good food the way she bonds old interview transcripts, to see how vivid Paula’s language was when she then the housekeeper, Malika, with her favorite people . . . first started interviews in 2011 and THE MEMORY WALL, a collage of new way to cook and eat. To AULA’S Alzheimer’s greeted us at the door dressed The best dishes are synony- how dementia had shrunk it in the Paula’s favorite pictures from her career, is between stages three is pinned to a wall in her office. judge how much salt a cook in a bright blue silk Berber mous with love itself. ensuing years. “Sometimes interviews should sprinkle onto duck and four, with moderate felt like a three-way conversation: me, P cognitive decline. She now tunic. “I think this is going to EMILY KAISER THELIN, Unforgettable: Bold Paula, and then dementia interrupting wise, too. The book details Paula’s epic, breasts before them, no longer really cooks. Her sense of Flavors from Paula Wolfert’s Renegade Life be good,” Paula said. “You her train of thought,” Thelin said. off-the-beaten-path journeys around Paula asked Ariane to season taste and smell are diminished, so she can tell she cares.” On the photo shoots, Team Renegade the Mediterranean and Middle East some herself and slid a piece makes simple lunches with grass-fed What followed was a master prepared for anything, scaled back as well as her quest for mainstream of paper between Ariane’s beef or omega 3–rich fish along with class in how Paula gets her AST YEAR, the food world whenever necessary, and handled most solutions, at first, to her disease. After braised greens and a salad. For dinner, buzzed about a new biographi- of the cooking themselves. They shot her initial diagnosis, she agreed to fingers and the meat to she blends her own nut, seed, and recipes. In the kitchen, which L cal cookbook project called at Wolfinger’s studio in San Francisco take Donepezil to enhance cognition, measure how much fell. supplement-laced “gritties,” the was scented with Malika’s Unforgettable: Bold Flavors from instead of Paula’s home because she knowing the drug would neither slow “It was sometimes grueling,” opposite of a smoothie (see recipe on freshly ground spices, Paula Paula Wolfert’s Renegade Life. felt too responsible as a host, making the progression of dementia nor cure it. Ariane recalled. “Those page 184). She has scaled back on pulled out her notebook but Turned down by 10 publishing houses, the team coffees, retrieving kitchen entertaining; when she does have many of which told her Paula’s time equipment, and offering dark chocolate dinners obliged me to go deep guests, she prefers to serve simple, re- didn’t write much down; had passed, Emily Kaiser Thelin, a food snacks. At the studio, she could relax. BULLETPROOFS, down, to learn how to analyze freshing snacks, such as sliced water- instead, she peppered Malika writer and Paula’s former editor at Paula’s hands sometimes remembered GRITTIES, AND COOKIES a dish technically. When she melon, instead of multicourse feasts. with questions: Where was Food & Wine, launched a crowdfunding the movement of rolling couscous by asked how it tasted, it wasn’t On a recent visit, she repeated her her saffron from, her cumin, Kickstarter campaign. She banded hand even if she couldn’t fully articu- To confirm that her facsimiles new routine when I reached her house. together with photographer Eric late how to do it, Nguyen said. Paula enough for me to say ‘good.’ She made Bulletproof coffee, a concoc- her almonds? And where was Wolfinger, book designer Toni Tajima, might have burnished her renegade tasted genuine, she roped in I had to learn to decide—not tion of filtered coffee, grass-fed butter, she from, and how had she and cookbook author Andrea Nguyen reputation by living in Tangier, Morocco, chef André Daguin’s daughter enough of this, too much of and specially formulated coconut oil learned so much about cook- (who served as editor) to honor Paula’s in the late ’50s—the dawn of the Beat Ariane as a tester, for some of that, what was missing.” said to increase the brain’s focus and ing? Malika opened up about life and produce the book themselves. Generation—and later, from 1972 to the time while [Ariane] was a attentiveness. As if she was letting me Some 1,112 backers donated more 1976, with her husband, Bill, and EMILY KAISER THELIN, Unforgettable: Bold in on a secret, Paula took me down to her almonds but also her than $91,000 to bring the project, to be children from her first marriage, Leila student at Barnard. In her Flavors from Paula Wolfert’s Renegade Life her basement to see her frozen stash of recent divorce, how before released in the spring of 2017, to life. and Nicholas. But she has always been exactitude, Paula taught her a brain food. We descended, walking

172 COOKING LIGHT NOVEMBER 2016 NOVEMBER 2016 COOKING LIGHT 173 Emily Kaiser ThelinandPaula. FRIENDS are not sanctioned by part her “the only in edibles,writes Thelin of herbattle with Alzheimer’s.part The and grow restless. isanimportant Sleep ofthe night her not wake inthe middle she said, itjust relaxes herand helps dispensary. Itdoesn’t makeher high, alicensed juana cookie purchased from before she took a tiny biteof a mari- ownhis dinner. steak, andherson, Nick, would make evening, himselfa would Bill grill eachday.a basket to ripen that Later that evening. Avocados were piledinto elsewouldwhatever go intoher gritty ments, tinctures, coconut milk, and kale along withan array of supple- mounds of chard and her fridge from pots and tagines,clay sheremoved of100-odd with a wall kitchen bright flax seeds, andwalnuts. cashews and salmon,wild-caught sardines, and chia bagsoforganic blueberries,pound-size revealto freezer dedicated-to-health interlude. Paula ledmeto a large, had a pottery-making Bill made during past a collection of handsome pots that 174 And thenPaula went to bed, butnot Upstairs in herhigh-ceilinged, COOKING LIGHT andlongtimecollaborators NOVEMBER 2016 Unforgettable,

memory is failing,memory recalls butshe still think about the future. Hershort-term lives not to inthe moment and tries just what she did theday before. She card. marijuana her medical these days, herpassport, asidefrom is piece ofpicture Her only identification legal, is not yet approved by the FDA.” neurologist, asthe treatment, though Paula her day over anddoes starts it makes thebookfeelmore alive andcrackle withasenseofurgency. doesn’tglobe andupthefoodchain.Herfadingmemory loomsadly; Paula’s classic recipes andchronicles theraconteur’s career across the Due outinspring2017, thisbiography by EmilyKaiser Thelinshares Unforgettable: BoldFlavors from Paula Wolfert’s Renegade Life our home kitchens. kitchens. home our and couscousinto brought tagines first bookand that inspired her with thecountry 50-year love affair A celebration ofa of Morocco The Food These five bookswillreward you withaworld ofbigflavors and richstoriesofthepeopleplacesbehindthem. A PAULA WOLFERT READER and cassoulet. dishes like confit to ourfluencyin region, contributing then-undiscovered illuminated a This 1983book France of Southwest The Cooking lemons to make the next day. of chicken, green olives, and preserved Food Morocco, from first book, shelf in mykitchen. outher I pulled me. And whenI got home, Iput it on a it while you like to cook,” still shetold chapter, that with her. andtheone after over. But I’d bealong to share thenext implication: was ofher life That part hands. understanding the I got teary sage green tagineand put itinmy she read mymind, down shepulled a dered what would happen to it. Asif 26 yearspot collection for and won- ing to her house. I had ogled her clay before coffee time and then for return- Portugueseto a new restaurant this that she made.taste her gritty We went like the Bulletproof coffee, nor would I much the same as before. didn’t Istill answer. “Oatmeal!” she asked me, notwaiting on the you remember what he said, Peggy?” healthy andasked him hissecret. “Do French, and I toldhimhe looked trim tomeet him.me tolunch Inmybest Bocuse was intown and shebrought Paul chef me ofthe day legendary stories, lotsof stories. reminded She simmered soul. the vessel’s slow- pes here capture the years.reci- The dozens more over and collected clay potatage19 Paula gotherfirst Clay Pot Cooking Mediterranean “I want you“I tohave itandcook with The last visitIpaid Paula was pretty Couscous and Other GoodCouscous andOther and chose a tagine andchose minute dishes. brought onby àla mance anxiety” “kitchen perfor- braises toward off forgiving and Full ofrelaxing, Kitchen Mediterranean The Slow

PHOTOGRAPHY: (BOOK COVER) COURTESY OF EMILY KAISER THELIN BRAIN FOOD PART 2

WHAT TO FEED YOUR BRAIN W HAT TO FEED YOUR BRAIN WHAT TO FEED YOUR BRAIN WHAT TO FEED YOUR BRAIN WHAT TO FEED YOUR BRAIN WHAT TO FEED YOUR BRAIN WHAT TO FEED YOUR BRAIN WHAT TO FEED YOUR BRAIN WHAT TO FEED YOUR BRAIN W HAT TO FEED YOUR BRAIN W H AT TO FEED YOUR BRAIN WHAT TO FEED YOUR BRAIN W H AT TO FEED YOUR BRAIN W H A T TO FEED YOUR BRAIN

MUCH DEPENDS ON WHAT YOU EAT, ESPECIALLY HOW YOU AGE, FEEL, AND FOCUS. SO WHY NOT FEED YOUR BODY AND BRAIN WITH CLEAN, HIGH-OCTANE FUEL? HERE’S HOW.

BY SIDNEY FRY, MS, RD, AND CAROLYN WILLIAMS, PHD, RD PHOTOGRAPHY BY IAIN BAGWELL

176 COOKING LIGHT NOVEMBER 2016 LZHEIMER’S DISEASE is the most common form 2. Blueberries MIND researchers of dementia and the sixth-leading cause of death focused fruit intake solely on berries, in the United States. It’s a progressive, irreversible all of which are packed with antioxi- The relationship between A dants. Blueberries’ levels lead the list, gut bacteria and brain health disorder in which the brain’s nerve cells degener- appearing to help protect sensitive is a new research area with lots ate, causing problems with memory, thinking, and behavior. brain cells from harmful free radicals. of unknowns (see “Healthier Gut= SUGGESTED INTAKE At least 2 cups per week Healthier Brain,” page 188), Symptoms typically develop slowly, worsen over time, and but polyphenols in red wine interfere with daily tasks. Yes, genes are involved, but 3. Nuts Walnuts are a top nut for do appear to nourish good- for-you bifidobacteria fewer than 5% of Alzheimer’s cases are directly caused by brain health, but all nuts offer potential in the gut. genetics. The medical community has yet to identify a brain benefits thanks to the powerful cause, and there is no effective long-term treatment. We combo of omega-3s, vitamin E, and antioxidants. SUGGESTED INTAKE 1 ounce do know this: The brains of Alzheimer’s patients contain at least 5 days a week A 2014 study from abnormal deposits of proteins, called amyloid plaques and the University of Pittsburgh tangles. The plaques build up around the brain’s nerve cells 4. Beans These are natural brain found that people who eat boosters, containing B vitamins and fish of any type on a weekly while tangles form inside the cells, leading to blocked com- basis have larger gray matter phytochemicals as well as a good supply volumes in the brain—the area munication between brain cells and, eventually, cell death. of glucose, the brain’s top fuel source. responsible for memory Determining what causes this buildup of plaques and The brain can’t store glucose, so it relies and speech—than those tangles is key to finding a treatment. Two factors that on a steady supply of it from the body, who don’t. appear to play a role are oxidative damage by free radicals which beans can provide. SUGGESTED INTAKE Include with 4 or more meals a week and inflammation. Both of these are symptoms associated with the natural aging process, but they’re also impacted 5. Dark Leafy Greens Eating them by lifestyle. In addition, a lack of adequate blood flow due may be one of the best ways to main- tain proper brain function and to slow to brain cell death slowly limits healthy cells from getting dementia development. They’re packed the oxygen and glucose they need to function properly, with folate and phytochemicals, both and there’s speculation that insulin resistance may be of which have been linked to a lower contributing to this (see “Type 3 Diabetes,” page 179). risk of mental decline. Folate deficiency Bottom line: Memory and cognition suffer. So what can is associated with depression and pos- sible cognitive impairment. SUGGESTED you do now to start preventing mental decline? Focus on INTAKE At least 6 cups weekly and habits that can boost your brain health. 6. Extra-Virgin Olive Oil This 15 BRAIN-BOOSTING FOODS contains oleocanthal, which boosts the A 2015 study found production of key enzymes that help that people who ate one to break down the plaques associated two servings of leafy greens Researchers at Rush University Medical Center developed a diet that with Alzheimer’s. A study published per day had the mental helped lower the risk of Alzheimer’s by as much as 53% in study partici- in the Journal of Alzheimer’s Disease abilities of someone 11 years pants who followed it rigorously, and by as much as 35% in moderate found that olive oil improved learning younger than those Brain Power followers. The MIND diet (Mediterranean–DASH Intervention for Neuro- and memory by reversing oxidative who ate none. Combo Plate degenerative Delay) is a blend of the Mediterranean and DASH diets damage in the brains of mice. Recipes p. 182 (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension) and includes foods from each SUGGESTED INTAKE Use often that contain nutrients that appear to play key roles in brain health. Here, seven foods from the MIND diet (and the intakes associated with the most 7. Wine Several studies link moderate TYPE 3 DIABETES benefit), plus eight more on page 184 that could help keep you sharp. alcohol intake with improved memory and possibly even lower Alzheimer’s There’s a strong connection between Alzheimer’s and diabetes: Studies have shown that people who have type 2 diabetes may 1. Fish Eating fish like tuna and slows plaque buildup. Low levels of risk—moderation being key. Red wine be twice as likely to develop Alzheimer’s, potentially due to insulin resistance. Some scientists even refer to Alzheimer’s as type salmon once a week has been shown omega-3 fatty acids in the diet have may offer even more brain benefits due 3 diabetes. According to experts at the Harvard T. H. Chan School of Public Health, type 2 diabetes is almost always prevent- to slow decline in those with the been associated with increased risk to resveratrol, a compound in red able through exercise and diet. Whether you have type 2 diabetes or not, the current consensus is that all individuals should try Alzheimer’s gene, thanks to the high of depression and cognitive decline. grapes that may help reduce amyloid to reduce insulin resistance. The best way to do this? Limit added sugars, refined carbs, and processed foods; eat balanced content of omega-3 DHA fatty acid, SUGGESTED INTAKE At least 1 (4- to buildup in the brain. SUGGESTED INTAKE meals that focus on lean protein and vegetables; and be active.

which reduces oxidative stress and 6-ounce) serving per week No more than 1 glass a day FOOD STYLING: TORIE COX; PROP STYLING: AMY STONE

178 COOKING LIGHT NOVEMBER 2016 NOVEMBER 2016 COOKING LIGHT 179 GLOSSARYG L O S S A R Y 4. Combine kale, spinach, and pear Alzheimer’s Disease A type in a large bowl. Add 4 tablespoons of dementia that causes problems with dressing; toss to coat. Divide kale memory, thinking, and behavior due to mixture evenly among 4 plates, and a degeneration of brain cells. Symptoms PAN-SEARED SALMON sprinkle evenly with remaining 2 WITH PEAR AND WALNUT typically develop slowly, worsen over tablespoons cheese and remaining time, and interfere with daily tasks. SPINACH SALAD Active: 30 min. Total: 30 min. 2 tablespoons walnuts. Top each salad Amyloid Plaques These are abnormal with 1 fillet. Drizzle fillets evenly Wild salmon has less saturated fat, fewer deposits of proteins that build up around with remaining dressing. brain cells in people with Alzheimer’s, calories, and 5 to 10 times fewer contaminants and persistent organic pollutants (POPs) SERVES 4 (serving size: 1 fillet and about 2 cups salad) disrupting communication between cells CALORIES FAT than farm-raised (in early studies, POPs have 427; 22.5g (sat 4.4g, mono 10g, poly 6.7g); and leading to cell death. PROTEIN 44g; CARB 15g; FIBER 4g; SUGARS 7g been linked to impaired brain development, Tangles These are abnormal protein (est. added sugars 3g); CHOL 89mg; IRON 3mg; type 2 diabetes, and obesity). There’s no need SODIUM 571mg; CALC 225mg formations inside the brain cells of people to give up all farmed salmon, and eating some with Alzheimer’s that disrupt the commu- is always better than none. Aim to eat at least nication between cells and contribute to cell death. 1 to 2 servings of omega-3-rich fatty fish weekly. 1 Antioxidants These compounds occur ⁄4 cup toasted walnuts, divided 1 naturally in foods and help prevent or stop 2 ⁄2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided damage caused by oxidants. Oxidants are 1 oz. grated fresh Parmigiano- 1 free radicals created by the body during Reggiano cheese (about ⁄4 cup), natural processes. Antioxidants clear these divided CHICKPEA-FARRO SALAD 1 unwanted free radicals from the body. 1 ⁄2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Active: 10 min. Total: 10 min. Oxidative Stress This is damage 1 Tbsp. white balsamic vinegar Diets higher in whole grains have been caused by an imbalance of too many free 2 tsp. honey linked to lower levels of inflammation and radicals and not enough antioxidants in 2 tsp. Dijon mustard cognitive decline; whole grains are a staple in the body; some oxidative stress is part 1 tsp. water the Mediterranean and DASH (Dietary of the natural aging process, but other Approaches to Stop Hypertension) diets. oxidative stress can cause damage that is 1 tsp. minced fresh garlic 1 This salad combines brain-boosting farro, ⁄2 tsp. kosher salt, divided thought to lead to the development of chickpeas, and olive oil with the bright crunch cancer, heart disease, and Alzheimer’s, 4 (6-oz.) wild salmon fillets of fresh celery. Simple, quick, and delicious. as well as other diseases. (about 1 in. thick) 1 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Insulin Resistance A condition in ⁄4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper which the body produces insulin but does 4 cups baby kale 1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar not use it effectively, causing a buildup 4 cups baby spinach 2 Tbsp. minced shallots 1 of glucose in the blood. Untreated insulin 1 cup thinly sliced ripe pear ⁄2 tsp. kosher salt 1 resistance can lead to type 2 diabetes ⁄4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1. and may play a role in Alzheimer’s. Preheat oven to 425°F. 1 cup cooked farro 2. Finely chop or grind 2 tablespoons 1 cup canned organic chickpeas, walnuts. Combine finely chopped rinsed and drained walnuts, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 ⁄2 cup diced celery 2 tablespoons cheese, and next 5 1 GET SOME SLEEP ⁄2 cup coarsely chopped ingredients (through 1 teaspoon water) celery leaves 1 in a small bowl. Add garlic and 4⁄ Lack of quality sleep increases levels teaspoon salt, stirring with a whisk. 1. Combine first 5 ingredients in a of the protein that forms amyloid 3. Sprinkle salmon with remaining large bowl, stirring well with a whisk. plaques, which in turn disrupts sleep 1⁄ Add remaining ingredients; toss to coat. patterns further. Make a point to get 4 teaspoon salt and pepper. Heat a 2 adequate sleep, and readjust your sleep large cast-iron skillet over high. Add SERVES 4 (serving size: about ⁄3 cup) 1 CALORIES FAT remaining 1 ⁄2 teaspoons oil to pan; 171; 8g (sat 1g, mono 5.1g, poly 1.1g); patterns after deprivation or interrup- PROTEIN CARB FIBER SUGARS swirl to coat. Add salmon, skin side 4g; 21g; 4g; 2g tions. “This is valuable time where the (est. added sugars 0g); CHOL 0mg; IRON 1mg; brain rids itself of collected debris. down; cook 3 minutes or until SODIUM 347mg; CALC 34mg I like to say that this is where the janitor skin begins to brown, gently pressing comes in and cleans after a busy day at fillets. Place pan in oven (salmon the office,” says Rebecca Katz, MS, should still be skin side down). author of The Healthy Mind Cookbook. Bake for 4 to 5 minutes or until desired degree of doneness.

182 COOKING LIGHT NOVEMBER 2016 8 MMOREO R E B BRAINR A I N B BOOSTERSO O S T E R S ORANGE-MANGO GRITTY WITH TURMERIC AND WALNUTS 8. GGreenreen TTeaea This antioxidant-rich 1100. DDarkark CChocolatehocolate The satisfying, Active: 10 min. Total: 10 min. beverage appears to be one of the best bittersweet bite is rich in flavonoids, Here’s our take on Paula Wolfert’s daily ways to keep the brain hydrated thanks which help create neurons and have “gritty” (see page 173)—the opposite to the compounds called catechins. been shown to improve cognitive func- of a smoothie thanks to all the nuts, Not only do catechins appear to be tion. It also encourages the release of seeds, and spices. The walnut-flaxseed some of the most effective antioxidants endorphins, which elevate your mood. combination adds 2,000mg omega-3s in preventing free radical damage, but For maximum flavonoid benefit, to this satisfying sip, along with a some research suggests they can help choose a dark chocolate that contains pleasantly nutty balance to the sweet block amyloid plaque formation. 60% cacao or higher. SUGGESTED INTAKE mango and bright citrus. Yogurt lends SUGGESTED INTAKE Drink regularly Enjoy a 1-ounce treat occasionally tangy, good-for-the-gut probiotics, and fresh turmeric adds a bright, peppery 9. CCoffeeoffee Harvard researchers found 1111. FFermentedermented FFoodsoods The exact zing. Some researchers say the curcumin that people who drink 3 to 5 cups of impact that our gut microbes have on in fresh turmeric is more bioavailable coffee (caffeinated or decaf ) a day may the brain is unclear (see “Healthier than dried, as some essential oils and have a lower risk of developing neuro- Gut=Healthier Brain” on page 188), pungency are lost in the drying process. We love it for its brighter, livelier flavor. logical diseases and type 2 diabetes. but adding bacteria diversity with diet If you can’t find fresh root (a close Coffee lovers can thank chlorogenic is one of the best ways to encourage a

relative to gingerroot), substitute acid, a compound in coffee that acts as healthy gut. Do this by eating more 1 an anti-inflammatory and decreases probiotics, prebiotics, and fermented ⁄2 teaspoon dried turmeric. cells’ insulin resistance. Caffeine also foods, such as yogurt, kimchi, kombu- 3⁄ 4 cup plain 2% reduced-fat blocks adenosine, a chemical that cha, miso, and sauerkraut. Fermented Greek yogurt inhibits the activity of nerve cells; foods also contain high concentrations 1 cup ice cubes several studies correlate caffeine intake of vitamin K, which may be a factor 3⁄ 4 cup chopped peeled ripe with higher scores on memory tests. in slowing the development of mango, frozen SUGGESTED INTAKE Less than 4 cups a day 1 Alzheimer’s because of its key role ⁄2 cup fresh orange slices in the synthesis of important lipids. 1⁄ 4 cup chopped toasted SUGGESTED INTAKE Eat several times a week walnuts 1⁄ 4 cup fresh orange juice 112.2. TTurmericurmeric This vibrant yellow 1 Tbsp. ground flaxseed spice from India is gaining popularity 2 tsp. grated fresh in alternative medicine. It contains turmeric a compound called curcumin, Dash of kosher salt which not only gives the root Freshly grated nutmeg its bright orange-yellow hue but (optional) also lends a distinctly earthy, 11.. Place first 9 ingredients peppery flavor to curry powders. in a blender; process 1 minute In a 2012 Ohio State University or until almost smooth. Divide study, curcumin reduced amyloid mixture evenly between 2 glasses. accumulation in the brains of Sprinkle with nutmeg, if desired. middle-aged subjects. Residents of

1 SERVES 2 (serving size: about 1 ⁄4 cups) India have low rates of Alzheimer’s, CALORIES 245; FAT 13.1g (sat 2.3g, mono 1.7g, a statistic that some associate with poly 8g); PROTEIN 11g; CARB 25g; FIBER 4g; the region’s high levels of turmeric SUGARS 19g (est. added sugars 0g); CHOL 6mg; SUGGESTED INTAKE IRON 1mg; SODIUM 91mg; CALC 109mg intake. Incorporate 1 or 2 turmeric dishes (such as curry) a week

184 COOKING LIGHT NOVEMBER 2016 rich in folate and B12 is an easy way to protect your brain: Make sure you’re getting lots of greens, whole grains, and lean protein, including shell- fish (like clams, see page 188). SUGGESTED INTAKE These foods have loads of other TUNA,TUNA, EGG,EGG, ANDAND benefits; should be diet staples AVOCADOAVOCADO TOASTTOAST Active: 15 min. Total: 15 min. 1414. EggsEggs High in protein and 8 oz. canned or jarred sustainable low in calories (6g protein and albacore tuna packed in oil 70 calories per large egg), eggs 1 ⁄2 cup chopped celery are also a good source of vitamin 1 ⁄4 cup chopped fresh basil, divided D and choline, two nutrients key 2 Tbsp. minced red onion for brain health. It’s estimated up to 75% of us don’t get enough vitamin 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice D—a scary fact in light of a recent 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 1 study that found that older adults who ⁄4 tsp. kosher salt 1 1313. FoodsFoods RichRich inin B VitaminsVitamins Low were moderately deficient in vitamin D ⁄4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper levels of folate and B12 are associated had a 53% increased risk of developing 2 hard-cooked large eggs, with increased risk for Alzheimer’s and Alzheimer’s. Choline helps stimulate coarsely chopped dementia. Some studies suggest that neurotransmitters and regulate metab- 4 (1-oz.) slices crusty whole-grain taking supplements of these vitamins olism. SUGGESTED INTAKE Up to 1 a day bread, toasted 3 may actually slow brain deterioration, for healthy adults; up to 3 a week for those with heart ⁄4 cup thinly sliced avocado 1 but more data are needed. Eating foods disease or diabetes ⁄2 cup baby arugula 1.1. Drain tuna, reserving 2 table- spoons oil. Combine tuna, reserved oil, celery, 3 tablespoons basil, and AVOID BRAIN DRAINERS next 5 ingredients (through black pepper) in a medium bowl; toss to Adding brain-boosting foods is only part of why many think the MIND diet had such powerful results. Decreasing brain drainers may have coat. Fold in eggs. Top each bread just as much (or more) impact on Alzheimer’s risk. slice with about 3 tablespoons avocado, 2 tablespoons arugula, and 3 Butter and Stick Margarine Fast Food 4⁄ cup tuna mixture. Garnish toasts (less than 1 Tbsp. a day) (0-1 times a week) with remaining 1 tablespoon basil. Red Meat Baked Goods and Sweets SERVES 4 (serving size: 1 ) (less than 4 meals a week) (less than 5 servings a week) CALORIES 333; FAT 19.3g (sat 3.3g, mono 10.7g, Cheese Fried Foods poly 3.8g); PROTEIN 23g; CARB 17g; FIBER 4g; (less than 1 serving a week) (0-1 servings a week) SUGARS 3g (est. added sugars 1g); CHOL 111mg; IRON 2mg; SODIUM 586mg; CALC 59mg

186 COOKING LIGHT NOVEMBER 2016 GARLICKY STEAMED CLAMS Active: 20 min. Total: 25 min. 2 Tbsp. olive oil 6 garlic cloves, sliced 1 ⁄4 cup finely chopped shallots 15.15. CoconutCoconut OilOil This plant oil is rich (see page 190), a coffee blend with 3 ⁄4 cup dry white wine in medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs), a coconut oil derivative and butter 1 ⁄4 cup clam juice a type of fat that may boost ketone said to increase alertness and focus. levels. One theory holds that ketones SUGGESTED INTAKE Coconut oil is 1 Tbsp. chopped fresh thyme 1 may be a substitute energy source predominantly saturated fat, and sat fat has been ⁄4 tsp. crushed red pepper 1 for glucose when brain cells become linked to an increased dementia risk. There’s 2 ⁄2 lb. small clams in shells (such as insulin resistant due to Alzheimer’s. also no evidence that MCTs in coconut oil have an Manila or littleneck), scrubbed No research has proven the brain- impact on brain health. However, several clinical 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 boosting benefits of coconut oil, trials looking at potential effects on dementia ⁄3 cup chopped fresh parsley though anecdotal testimonials abound and Alzheimer’s are currently being conducted, 4 (1-oz.) slices crusty whole-grain about the efficacy of Bulletproof so stay tuned. bread and 4 lemon wedges 1.1. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over medium. Add garlic and shallots; cook 8 minutes or until HEALTHIER GUT = HEALTHIER BRAIN shallots are soft. Increase heat to medium-high. Add wine, clam juice, Once considered an outlandish theory in alternative medicine, research now thyme, and red pepper; bring to a shows that gut bacteria communicate with the brain to influence metabolism, insulin boil. Boil 3 minutes. Add clams; response, mood, and behavior. Scientists call this the gut microbiome–brain axis, cover and cook 4 to 5 minutes or and the gut-brain relationship may be a huge factor in health. While more research is needed, we do know that the typical American diet until shells open. Discard any (refined foods, added sugars) disrupts the microbe balance in the gut and promotes unopened shells. Stir in butter inflammation in the body. It’s this inflammatory imbalance that may be at the root of and parsley; serve with bread and type 2 diabetes, depression, obesity, heart disease, and dementia. Populations with lemon wedges. more diverse guts (like those found in people with a diet low in processed foods and SERVES 4 (serving size: about 9 clams, 1 high in fruits, vegetables, and fish) appear to have a lower prevalence of these con- about ⁄4 cup liquid, and 1 bread slice) ditions. This suggests that a nutritional approach may prevent, slow, or halt the pro- CALORIES 289; FAT 14.5g (sat 4.9g, mono 6.7g, poly PROTEIN CARB FIBER SUGARS gression of the disease. Much more research is needed (and underway) to hopefully 1.7g); 13g; 19g; 3g; 3g (est. added sugars 1g); CHOL 39mg; IRON 2mg; provide a better understanding of the gut-brain relationship and how it impacts health. SODIUM 557mg; CALC 89mg

188 COOKING LIGHT NOVEMBER 2016 GET OUT AND GET MOVING

PHYSICAL “Exercise actually pro- are important to brain health and WWHATH A T TTHEH E BBRAINR A I N motes the growth of new brain cells, longevity. New programs such as EEXPERTSX P E R T S EEATA T and this is most aggressively seen in BrainHQ have been designed the brain’s memory center,” says David recently to challenge and train the Perlmutter, MD, neurologist and brain (more online resources below). David Perlmutter, MD author of Grain Brain. “While stretch- What’s more, Barnard advocates Neurologist and author of Grain Brain ing and weight training are great ideas, combining physical and cognitive the science that shows exercise is good exercise for increased benefits. BREAKFAST I often skip it. for the brain has focused on aerobics. “New research shows participating LUNCH My first meal is typically around As little as 20 minutes a day turns out in physical exercise four hours after noon, favoring lots of colorful, above-ground to be associated with an almost 50% you learn new material may help you vegetables and a protein source like free range in Alzheimer’s risk.” recall the information at a higher eggs or wild fish, with everything covered How much physical exercise is rate,” Barnard says. in lots of organic, extra-virgin olive oil. ideal for keeping your brain healthy? SOCIAL Make interacting with DINNER Usually similar. I consume “Aim for 40 minutes, three times each others a priority as well. Paula Wolfert fermented foods daily. I really like kimchi, week,” recommends Neal Barnard, plans weekly social activities such as a traditional Korean fermented cabbage that’s loaded with probiotic bacteria. I also MD, founder and president of the lunches on Tuesday and video chats eat a good source of prebiotic fiber each day Physicians Committee for Responsible with a group of fellow dementia Medicine. “Aerobic exercise has been to nurture gut bacteria. This may be jicama, advocates on Thursday. She visits the dandelion greens, asparagus, onions, associated with an increase in the size Sonoma farmers market twice a week. garlic, or artichokes. of the hippocampus, the part of the “Having a sense of community and brain that is central to memory.” purpose may be the most important MENTAL Don’t forget mental exercise, component in health and longevity,” Rebecca Katz, MS too. Experts believe activities such as says Rebecca Katz, MS, author of Author of The Healthy Mind Cookbook meditation and learning a new skill The Healthy Mind Cookbook. BREAKFAST I don’t get hungry until about 10 a.m., so I start with hot water and lemon, move on to black coffee, then I might have some sheep’s yogurt with blueberries and chopped nuts. A TOOL KIT OF RESOURCES LUNCH By 10, I’m eating a cup of soup. If you think you or someone you know has symptoms of dementia, If I have a frittata in the fridge from the week- consult a neurologist to tailor a plan of action. The links below, including end, I’ll nibble on that. recommendations from Paula Wolfert, will help you stay abreast DINNER Depending on the season, of the latest developments on dementia and cognitive function. it might be a steak salad, a curry, or soup—all accompanied by lots of vegetables. I also keep Alzheimer’s News Today heartfelt advice for caring for loved ones myself hydrated with herbal tea, green tea, Keep current on the latest studies and with memory loss. and infused waters. news developments on brain health. fourhourworkweek.com For alzheimersnewstoday.com creative approaches to productivity and Neal Barnard, MD alz.org (and alzheimersblog.org) mental alertness, Paula follows the blogs Founder and president of the Physicians Find resources and support groups for local and podcasts of Timothy Ferriss. Committee for Responsible Medicine branches of the Alzheimer’s Association, time.com/tag/longevity the leading nonprofit advocacy group. BREAKFAST Blueberry buckwheat News stories about the challenges we face pancakes or steel-cut oats with fresh fruit, alzforum.org A news site that later in life as we live longer. nuts, and seeds publishes and archives the latest scientific bulletproofexec.com Paula Wolfert’s papers on the disease. LUNCH A Tuscan vegetable wrap or a daily routine inspired Cooking Light staffers leafy green salad with vegetables and beans brainhq.com A relatively new brain to try Bulletproof coffee, a fuel for the training site with personalized courses and Silicon Valley set. We blended 8 ounces DINNER Stuffed bell peppers with squash, challenges backed by research studies. of hot filtered coffee with 1 tablespoon black beans, and rice; or sweet potato burritos Kerrygold grass-fed butter and 1 teaspoon The Caregiver Action Network DESSERT Banana ice cream or a black XCT oil (derived from coconut oil, see page Tips and forums for all types of caregiving bean brownie, made with dates and jam 188) per serving. It made us feel much situations. caregiveraction.org more alert than regular black coffee and dementiajourney.org Practical and staved off hunger, too.

190 COOKING LIGHT NOVEMBER 2016