What You Need to Know About Clay Pots By Paula Wolfert There are several types of clay pots, each with its own set of attributes. Earthenware, which can be glazed, partially glazed, or unglazed, and is sometimes called redware or terra cotta, is the most common. When using earthenware either on the stove top or in the oven, moderation is always key, as quick changes of temperature may cause the clay to crack. A heat diffuser should always be used as a buffer when cooking with earthenware pots on an electric or ceramic stove. Unglazed earthenware pots, including those made from micaceous clay, should be seasoned before use as directed by the manufacturer. Glazed and partially glazed earthenware pots need simply be soaked once. Glazed pots are generally dishwasher safe, but porous unglazed pots should be washed by hand to prevent absorption of detergent. Related: The Joys of Clay Pot Cooking >> Flameware, the popular name for flameproof ceramic cookware, is newer on the market, but it's extremely practical. This type of stoneware contains mineral elements that keep vessels from expanding and contracting with sudden changes in temperature (as conventional stoneware does), thus allowing them to be used more easily over direct heat on a stove top or even under the broiler. Clay pots also come under different names, depending on the shape and country of origin. A Spanish cazuela is a round earthenware vessel glazed all over except on the very bottom. Cazuelas come in a wide range of sizes, but for most recipes a 10-, 11- or 12-inch pot will be most handy. The cazuela is a real workhorse, as it can stand in for all kinds of Mediterranean skillets and shallow pots and can be used both in the oven and on top of the stove. You will need at least one deep earthenware or Flameware casserole with a cover to use for cooking soups, daubes, stews, beans and other slow-cooked dishes on top of the stove or in the oven. Gentle and even cooking preserves the flavors and binds them brilliantly. There is less of a tendency for food to burn, and cleanup is effortless. There are beautiful casseroles available online from North America, France, Italy, Spain, Egypt, Turkey, Colombia and Chile. Pots made of micaceous clay have a lovely glittery surface and are thus left unglazed. One inexpensive line I particularly like, La Chamba, is imported from Colombia. These pots make superb clay cooking vessels that can stand up to direct heat and retain heat beautifully. They are strong and particularly good for cooking slow-simmered soups, sauces, vegetables, beans and stews. They come in the form of skillets, baking pans and casseroles. The La Chamba shallow baking dish is particularly useful for cooking flat breads, scrambled eggs and gratins. La Chamba pots are porous, so don't leave liquid in them for long periods off the heat. Tagines have become very popular lately, and with good reason. Tagines cook food beautifully, and they are relatively inexpensive. The high conical -- or dome-shaped -- cover, which fits into the shallow base, acts as a kind of closed chimney. Since the heat on a stove top comes from below, the top of the cover remains cooler than the rest of the pot, which causes steam to condense and drip back onto the stew, preventing the food from drying out. his website devoted to all things Turkish sells earthenware guvecs.www.tulumba.com [Home] [About] [Recipes] [Articles] [Cookbooks] [Links] [Subscribe] ©1999—2009 Paula Wolfert Chicken Tagine Smothered in Spicy Eggplant Puree (Tagine Mderbel) SERVINGS: 4 TO 6 Here chicken (or lamb, if you prefer) simmers in a sauce of garlic, ginger, saffron and black pepper until it is so tender it is falling off the bone. Then the chicken is piled in the center of a dish and topped with a thick, intensely flavored "jam" made from fried eggplant that has been crushed with spices and garlic, refried with fresh tomatoes and enriched with some of the sauce from the chicken. The remaining sauce is added to the dish, and the tagine is reheated to blend the flavors. Though absolutely delicious, this dish is not at all subtle. INGREDIENTS 2 pounds eggplant (about 2 large) 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons coarse (kosher) salt Olive oil or corn oil, for shallow frying 3 medium garlic cloves, crushed 3/4 cup chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley 1/4 cup chopped fresh coriander 1 teaspoon sweet paprika 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin Several pinches of cayenne pepper, to taste 2 large tomatoes—peeled, seeded and chopped (about 2 cups) Pinch of sugar 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon cider vinegar 1 chicken (about 4 pounds), cut into 8 pieces, or 3 pounds lamb shoulder, trimmed of excess fat 1 1/4 teaspoons ground ginger Pinch of powdered saffron 1/4 teaspoon finely ground black pepper 1/2 cup grated onion (2 small onions) Sprigs of fresh coriander and/or thin slices of lemon, for garnish Get Ingredients HOW TO MAKE THIS RECIPE 1. Trim off the top and bottom from each eggplant. With a vegetable peeler, remove 3 to 4 thin vertical strips of skin from each vegetable, leaving the eggplants striped, then cut crosswise into 1/2-inch slices. Sprinkle the eggplant with 2 tablespoons of the salt and let drain in a nonaluminum colander for at least 2 hours or preferably overnight. Rinse and drain the eggplant; pat dry with paper towels. 2. Heat 1/4 inch of oil in a large heavy skillet over high heat. Fry the eggplant slices in batches until golden brown on both sides, about 4 minutes. Drain on paper towels; place on a cutting board, and reserve. With a potato masher, crush the eggplant with 1 of the garlic cloves, 2 tablespoons each of parsley and coriander, the paprika, cumin and cayenne. 3. Return 3 tablespoons of the reserved oil to the skillet and reheat. Add the tomatoes, 1 teaspoon of the salt and the sugar, if necessary. Cook over moderately high heat, stirring frequently, until most of the moisture evaporates, about 5 minutes. 4. Add the mashed eggplant to the tomatoes in the skillet and cook over very low heat, stirring frequently, until most of the moisture evaporates and the mixture is very thick, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice and vinegar. 5. Trim the excess fat from the chicken or lamb. Wash the chicken; pat dry. In a mortar, pound the remaining garlic with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Blend in the ginger, saffron and black pepper. Gradually stir in 2 tablespoons of the reserved oil and 1/2 cup of hot water, as if making mayonnaise. 6. In a large flameproof casserole or deep skillet, toss the chicken with the garlic-spice mixture to coat each piece. Cover and cook over low heat for 5 minutes. Add the onion, the remaining parsley and coriander and enough water to just cover, about 2 1/2 cups. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to moderate, cover and simmer for 1 hour, or until the chicken begins to fall off the bone. Remove the chicken to a serving dish and cover to keep moist. Skim off most of the fat, then continue cooking the pan juices uncovered over moderate heat until reduced to 1 1/2 cups, about 15 minutes. 7. Mix half the pan juices with the eggplant puree and adjust the seasoning, adding additional salt, black pepper and lemon juice to taste. Place the chicken in a small heatproof serving bowl. Pile the eggplant on top, forming a pyramid. Surround with remaining sauce. Cover loosely with foil and reheat 10 minutes in a 400° oven just before serving. Garnish the puree with thin slices of lemon and sprigs of coriander if desired. MAKE AHEAD The recipe can be prepared to Step 4 up to 3 days in advance. CONTRIBUTED BY PAULA WOLFERT PUBLISHED JANUARY 2014 Colombian La Chamba casseroles and other unglazed pots impart an earthy, sweet flavor to stews. Some benefit from regular seasoning with oil. Pan-Roasted Cauliflower with Pine Nuts and Raisins The late Armenian cookbook author Arto der Haroutunian, who taught Paula Wolfert this dish, caramelized cauliflower on the stove before baking it with eastern Mediterranean flavorings: chopped tomatoes, plumped raisins and Marash red pepper flakes. You can use any cazuela or flameware pot, but Wolfert likes the unglazed black La Chamba roasting pan from Colombia, which she says imparts sweetness to the dish. INGREDIENTS 2 tablespoons raisins (not golden) 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 head cauliflower, cut into florets (4 cups) 1 teaspoon sugar 2 cups tomatoes—drained, peeled, seeded and chopped Pinch of crushed red pepper, preferably Marash (see Note) Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons pine nuts 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice INSTRUCTIONS 1. Preheat the oven to 350°. In a small bowl, cover the raisins with water; let stand until softened, about 10 minutes. Drain. 2. Meanwhile, in a 10- to 12-inch cazuela or ovenproof skillet, heat the oil. Add the cauliflower and sugar and cook over moderately low heat, stirring, until the cauliflower starts to soften, about 10 minutes. Raise the heat to moderate and cook until the cauliflower is lightly browned, about 5 minutes longer. Stir in the tomatoes and crushed red pepper, season with salt and black pepper and cook until the tomatoes have begun to soften, about 5 minutes. 3. Add the raisins to the cauliflower, along with 1/4 cup hot water, the pine nuts and chopped garlic.