Our Dietitian Gets Cheesy

FREE | OCTOBER NOVEMBER DECEMBER 2013 | VOL 76 | NO 4 CO-OP NEWS

OUR DIETITIAN GETS CHEESY.

READ THE LATEST BOOK REVIEW BY MARY SAUCIER CHOATE

If they could only see us now! potatoes, and maple syrup, and also arranged for discounts on gasoline, fuel oil, and coal. By ordering In 1936, when our founders first planted the seeds what they needed by the case, our founders launched of our noble cooperative enterprise, there were no an idea we still honor today. And as a result, one of the multiple retail locations, no online channels, no ways we celebrate Co-op Month in October is to honor social media outlets or e-news, no Co-op-supported our founders’ courage and vision with our annual Case community events. There was only one simple Lot Sale. We invite you to be a part of it! concept, which started it all:

Products by the case. 2013 case lot sale Lebanon Co-op Food Store It was winter, and a worldwide economic depression Thursday, October 10, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. made staple items particularly hard to acquire. A Friday, October 11, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. few industrious Dartmouth College faculty and their Saturday, October 12, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. spouses banded together to form a cooperative and order products they needed by the case. The early Check out www.coopfoodstore.coop for full details as cooperative buying club put in bulk orders for citrus, the sale gets closer. See you at the Case Lot sale!

COMING SOON

The holidays at the Co-op mean demos and samplings galore! Stay tuned to our website at coopfoodstore.coop/calendar for dates, times, and other information about our Taste of Tradition Holiday Parties and Pamper Me Parties, as well as Board Meetings, special events, classes, and more! See you at the samplings!

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 2 table of contents The Co-op News is a publication of the Hanover Consumer Cooperative Society. Copyright 2013. All rights reserved. Permission to reproduce any part of this publication may be granted at the discretion of the editor. Send inquiries to: WHAT’S P. O. Box 633 Hanover, NH 03755. Web Addresses http://www.coopfoodstore.coop http://www.facebook.com/coopfoodstores http://www.twitter.com/coopfoodstores Board of Directors President: Kay Litten; Vice-President: Margaret Drye; Treasurer: Zeb Mushlin; Secretary: Wynne Washburn INSIDE Balkcom; Martha Graber; Tricia Groff; Tyler A. Kurasek; John Rosenquest; Susan Sanzone Fauver Board Administrator Genie Braasch Management Team GM REPORT: CAPITAL INVESTMENTS PAGE 4 Terry Appleby, General Manager; Tony Alongi, Director of Finance; Bruce Follett, Merchandising Director; Steve Miller, BOARD REPORT: PLEASE VOTE! PAGE 6 Food Store Manager, Hanover; Rosemary Fifield, Education Director; Robert Kazakiewich, Food Store Manager, Lebanon; Loretta Land, Human Resource Director; Tony COOPERATION AMONG COOPERATIVES PAGE 8 White, Operations Director; Allan Reetz, Communications Director AT THE CO-OP: BRING BACK THE SACK, NEW Statement of Cooperative Identity A cooperative is an autonomous association of persons MEMBER BENEFITS, RUN FOR THE BOARD, united voluntarily to meet their common economic, social, and cultural needs and aspirations through a jointly-owned CULINARY LEARNING CENTER UPDATE PAGE 10 and democratically-controlled enterprise. Values SUSTAINABILITY REPORT: PAPER OR PLASTIC? PAGE 14 Cooperatives are based on the values of self-help, self- responsibility, democracy, equality, equity, and solidarity. In the tradition of their founders, cooperative members NEWS AND NOTES: CO-OP MONTH PAGE 17 believe in the ethical values of honesty, openness, social responsibility, and caring for others. BOOK REVIEW: KNEADLESSLY SIMPLE PAGE 18 Principles

CLAY POT COOKERY PAGE 21 1. Voluntary and Open Membership 2. Democratic Member Control BOOK REVIEW: CHEESEMONGER PAGE 24 3. Member Economic Participation 4. Autonomy and Independence 5. Education, Training, and Information COMMUNITY PARTNERS PAGE 26 6. Cooperation Among Cooperatives 7. Concern for Community OCTOBER IS CO-OP MONTH! PAGE 28 Editorial Staff Rosemary Fifield (editor), Mary Choate, Ken Davis, Amanda Charland Graphic design: Ken Davis Photography: Erika Gavin, Allan Reetz Confidentiality The Co-op protects the confidentiality of information collected for membership purposes. Questions and concerns about the application of this policy should be directed to the Co-op’s general manager. Store Hours Hanover: 8 a.m.–8 p.m. daily Lebanon: 7 a.m.–9 p.m. daily White River Junction: 7 a.m.–8 p.m. daily Co-op Market: Mon-Fri: 6 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday and ABOUT OUR PAPER Sunday 8 a.m. to 8 p.m., ice cream window open to 9 p.m. Service Center Hours Unattended pump hours: daily, 6 a.m. to 10 p.m., credit and The Co-op News is printed by a local business on a recycled debit only; attended pump hours: Monday-Friday, 7 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday and Sunday, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. paper that has no synthetic content. It is new paper that has Mechanics on duty: Monday-Friday, 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., been certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) as Saturdays 8 a.m. to noon for select repair work coming from “responsible forestry practices.” A chain of custody Phone & Email Hanover and Lebanon Food Stores: 603-643-2667 is maintained which can identify a lot number all the way back Park Street Service Center: 603-643-6650 to the tree from which the pulp was obtained. Co-op Market: 603-643-2725 White River Junction Food Store: 802-295-3400 e: [email protected]

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 3 general manager’s report

THE CO-OP’S ONGOING CAPITAL INVESTMENTS

Since the last expansion and remodel of the Hanover store was completed in 1994, very little substantive work has taken place on the store. Year after year there some project or other has pushed spending on the store to the back of the line. We cannot put off work on the store any longer.

by Terry Appleby Each year the Co-op invests REMODELING THE substantial sums in capital investments to keep the operation running efficiently. This year HANOVER STORE a lot of the focus has been on The remodel of the Hanover store will the Lebanon store with changes be a major project that will require a to the café area and in the fall large capital investment. Some of that the construction of the teaching investment involves things we need to do kitchen in the upper seating area. The new kitchen will to ensure the structural integrity of the allow us to again offer cooking and nutrition classes and building and the efficient operation of will rearrange the café seating to orient it more toward the business. Major refrigeration systems the outdoors. Once that project is finished, we will start need replacing, for example, and the the process for a larger remodel of the Hanover store. floor needs work. Our Hanover store on Park Street was originally built in 1963 and has had significant alterations and expansions over the years. Some of the original structural elements of the building are still pretty much as originally built completed in 1994, very little substantive work has taken and are in need of upgrading. In addition, the interior of place on the store. Year after year some project or other the store needs a major facelift, and virtually the entire has pushed spending on the Hanover store to the back of refrigeration is due for replacement. the line. We cannot put off work on the store any longer. Over the past several months we have had an assessment Since the last expansion and remodel of the store was of the store done by our architects and various engineers.

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 4 Co-op principle 3: member economic participation

Members contribute equitably to, and democratically control, the capital of their cooperative. At least part of that capital is usually the common property of the cooperative. Members usually receive limited compensation, if any, on capital subscribed as a condition of membership. Members allocate surpluses for any of the following purposes: developing their cooperative, possibly by setting up reserves, part of which at least would be indivisible; benefiting members in proportion to their transactions with the cooperative; and supporting other activities approved by the membership. —The International Cooperative Alliance

While the building is sound, it is aging and has issues costs, develop the operational program, and that need attention. Likewise, many components communicate with you about all the anticipated of systems like heating and ventilation need changes. We hope that by the fall of 2014 we’ll have replacement. a proposal to bring to the membership for a vote.

The remodel of the Hanover store will be a major Our hope is that a comprehensive remodel of the store project that will require a large capital investment. will correct some of the quirks of the present store— Some of that investment involves things we need to opening the bottleneck in the produce department and do to ensure the structural integrity of the building providing a more functional entryway into the store, and the efficient operation of the business. Major to name two. It will be an interesting and expensive refrigeration systems need replacing, for example, undertaking, but will result in a much better shopping and the floor needs work. experience for you, our members, and a much improved work environment for our staff. We plan to begin this necessary work in the coming year as a first phase. At the same time, we will be We look forward to beginning a dialogue on this developing a plan for a much more comprehensive project and hearing your thoughts on how to develop remodel of the store that could happen in 2015. In the Hanover store to provide service to the Upper the meantime, we will be working with architects Valley for many years into the future! to define the scope of the work, determine projected

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 5 board report

YOUR CHOICE AND YOUR VOICE: PLEASE VOTE!

CAST YOUR VOTE AT MYCOOPVOTE.COM!

by Kay Litten, President in our stores is safe, even though their own choices may not always be the healthiest! How many times have you been in the process of Our bylaws are outdated and do not reflect the needs creating something wonderful of today’s Co-op nor today’s members/shoppers. Our to eat or even merely making Hanover store is in desperate need of renovation, a simple meal when you’ve and this will take capital—one of the reasons we are had to stop to say to yourself, asking you to approve the creation of a second class “Oops! I have to run to the of Co-op stock. Co-op!”? It can be that you’ve run out of your Our Board used to number twelve, we reduced our grandson’s favorite cornflakes, or smoked Hungarian size to nine, but we now realize that in order to paprika for a special paprikash, or pomegranate maintain a healthy quorum at our meetings and to molasses for a unique marinade, or crème fraiche anticipate some resignations, for whatever reasons, for a tarte Tatin, or ketchup for meatloaf —no matter we are better able to serve the Co-op at twelve what it is, you know that you’ll find it at the Co-op. members. And wherever one votes, no matter for what or for whom, the policy is “one person = one Since its founding in 1936 to provide Hanover and vote.” In keeping with this logic, we believe that each Norwich residents a plentiful supply of fresh citrus Co-op member number should equal only one vote. at reasonable cost to be picked up in someone’s Any number of family members can shop under one garage, the Co-op has evolved into a chain of three number, but only the member named on that number’s supermarkets, one convenience store, a service/gas card is eligible to vote. We believe this is fair and station, and a commissary where its prepared foods logical. are made. This growth is not the result of someone’s dream of creating a food empire; it is the result of And speaking of voting—please vote for the proposed members and shoppers wanting more items for one- bylaws changes during the voting period of Saturday, stop shopping. October 19 through Sunday, October 27. Your ability to vote on the above topics is what makes the The choices in the stores are there because these are Hanover Consumer Cooperative Society different the items people want or need. We have not grown to from the other grocery stores in the area. You can vote become an Upper Valley food network, but to serve on-line, in the stores, or by mail. our customers, to protect local sources of food, to make it easier for the food-challenged to get healthy Thank you, one and all, for reading this, for being choices, and to protect the food we sell so that our loyal members/shoppers, and for voting. members and shoppers will know that what they buy

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 6 co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 7 COOPERATION AMONG COOPERATIVES

by David J. Thompson Bringing together the $1.5 billion purchasing power of the 134 NCGA co-ops (operating 170 stores in 36 A revolution began in the states) has had tremendous economic impact on the 1960s that changed the United members. The benefits include: States. The keystones were the rise of the anti-war movement • national purchasing contracts that and the growth of the Civil substantially reduce cost of goods; Rights movement. From the outrage were born channels • local advertising programs that take for change. The 1960s gave advantage of national vendor offers; rise to communes, Earth Day, • and organic agriculture. In addition, after the founding employment of over forty NCGA staff of Depression-era co-ops like the Hanover Co-op, a members serving the retail members; and “new wave” of American food co-ops emerged. • targeted operational support both regionally and nationally. That revolution continues. Today, we are witnessing the fastest growth of new By the 1990s, these independent food co-ops began food cooperatives since the 1970s. Stuart Reid of Food to work together in regional groups. It soon became Co-op Initiative, a non-profit national organization, apparent that they would be even more effective if they comments, “At this time, 200 to 300 new co-ops are united nationally. By 1999, the National Cooperative in some phase of organization, and 128 of them are Grocers Association (NCGA) was created to act as a formally organized.” Thanks to the Rochdale Co-op’s “virtual” grocery chain. Sixth Principal, “Cooperation among Cooperatives,”

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 8 over seventy-five years of solidarity, reciprocity, and survive and thrive in today’s market. With five unity serves and supports these promising new co-ops. retail locations and a commissary, Hanover’s sales in 2012 were $73 million. Hanover has By uniting their efforts, the once individual food co- 32,000 members. Hanover’s purchases provide ops have created many structural supports for their substantial income to over fifty local farms and own growth and that of the new cooperatives. With 240 local producers. growth occurring in so many ways in existing co-ops (expansion, relocation, additional stores) and in new co- • Founded in 1973, the Park Slope Food Co-op ops, the value of unity has many rewards. in Brooklyn, New York City, New York, is the largest volume members-only co-op in the U.S. © David J. Thompson, June 2013. David J. Thompson The 16,200 member households all work shifts is writing a book entitled Cooperatives and the Civil to lower their grocery bills by 20 to 40 percent. Rights Movement due for publication in 2014. He is The single location of 6,000 square feet, with President of the Twin Pines Cooperative Foundation. only 65 employees, did almost $45 million in 2012 annual sales.

DID YOU KNOW ... ? • The five largest volume single-store co-ops in the U.S. all do about $30 million dollars a year: • The largest food co-op in the U.S. is PCC in Ashland (Oregon), City Market (Burlington, Seattle, Washington. PCC began as a buying Vermont), Sacramento Natural Foods Co-op club in 1953. Today, its nine stores serve (California), Seward (Minneapolis, Minnesota), 45,000 members, and its sales in 2012 were and the Wedge (Minneapolis, Minnesota). $180 million. Through its PCC Farmland Trust, The Wedge also operates a produce wholesale PCC and its members have saved nine working company and a farm. organic farms in the Seattle region. • When Sacramento Natural Food Co-op (SNFC) • The second largest food co-op by sales is the opens its new 40,000 square foot store in 2015, Hanover Co-op. Founded in 1936, Hanover it will be the largest single co-op store. is one of the few Depression-era co-ops to

be a part of the cooperative movement!

Not a Co-op member yet? Well, we can fix that! Joining is fast and easy. Go to coopfoodstore.coop/members, download and complete a membership application, and bring to our Service Desks. We’ll do the rest.

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 9 at the co-op

BRING BACK THE SACK!

Four times a year—in January, April, July, and October—the Co-op gives away four $250 Co-op shopping sprees to shoppers whose names have been entered into our Bring Back the Sack drawing. The program was designed to help our Co-op’s sustainability efforts by encouraging shoppers to reuse their shopping bags.

The Co-op completed its third quarter of the 2013 Back the Sack” cards. Each card has twenty spots Bring Back the Sack (BBTS) program on September representing twenty bags. The cashier will punch your 30. Four winners of gift cards worth $250 each were card once for each of your bags used while bagging drawn from BBTS cards submitted by shoppers your groceries. When you have reused twenty bags, during the third quarter of the year. The names and your card will be full, and you can put it into our raffle home towns of the winners are posted on the Co-op’s bin. The more times you provide your own bags, the website, coopfoodstore.coop. more cards you can fill and add to the pot, thereby increasing your odds of winning! Want To Enter? It’s easy! To enter, a shopper must have a fully Is there a Catch? punched Bring Back the Sack card, representing Nope! Cards have no time limit. If you don’t complete twenty bags they provided for packing their groceries a card in time for the January drawing, drop it off for on shopping trips to the Co-op. Simple as that. one of the subsequent ones. After each drawing, the pot will be emptied and the previous three months’ Ask for Your Card cards destroyed. Your odds of winning will be The next time you bring your own bags while determined by the number of cards you enter and the shopping, ask the cashier for one of our “Bring number of cards entered overall during each quarter.

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 10 at the co-op

SPOTLIGHT ON MEMBER BENEFITS

There are many benefits to being a Co-op member. Read on to learn more about FEDCO, Community Garden, and Angel Heart benefits, and browse our full list at coopfoodstore.coop/members.

FEDCO SEED ORDER Services A grower once quipped that growing food in northern Services include, but are not limited to: New England is more art than science. Any masterpiece must start with quality seeds. • Hospital discharge assistance and follow up • Companionship Fedco Seed Company is a cooperative business in • Homemaking services Waterville, Maine, that sells a wide range of vegetable, • Transportation herb, and flower seeds at very competitive prices. Co- op members who participate in our annual group order • Respite care receive a 20 percent discount. • Hospice care • Patient sitting Fedco catalogs and ordering information for members • Patient walking and exercise will be available early December. Stay tuned to • Assistance with occupational and physical therapy coopfoodstore.coop and look for signs in our stores. • Patient outings and social engagements

• Medication reminders NEW MEMBER • Errands BENEFIT! • Arranging appointments and providing reminders • Alzheimer’s and dementia care ANGEL HEART • Long-term care CAREGIVERS • Personal hygiene care Our newest member benefit, Angel Heart Co-op Member Discount Caregivers, is a state- Co-op members receive up to 10 percent off on all licensed home healthcare homecare services such as those listed above, and up provider serving New to 15 percent off on all goods such as canes, walkers, Hampshire and Vermont. shower chairs, and more. Members also receive a free

consultation, assessment, and plan of care—a $300 value. The organization offers personalized care in the comfort of a client’s home, assisted living facility, or nursing Learn More home. Staff work closely with clients, primary care Pick up a brochure at any of our store Service Desks to physicians, and other medical personnel in order to learn more or call the folks at Angel Heart Caregivers at provide the best possible one-on-one care for you or your (603) 504-5511 or (603) 863-7095. loved one. please see BENEFITS on page 8

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 11 at the co-op

BENEFITS continued from page 7 ENTER THE DRAWING FOR A 2014 who prefer a smaller space. Full-sized plots rent for $30; COMMUNITY GARDEN PLOT half-sized for $15. Sign Up Now for 2014 Is fall too early to think about the garden? Not at the Early sign-up allows gardeners to begin work on their Co-op—where our beautiful Community Gardens have plots as soon as they wish in the spring. Gardeners a strong fan base. in good standing from the previous year are given priority because of the work they have already put into Members, Rent a Garden Plot! improving their plots. The Co-op will hold a drawing One of the many benefits of Co-op membership is the to allocate remaining plots. Members who were on the opportunity to rent a garden plot for the summer, and waiting list in the past will need to apply again for 2014 during the fall we offer signups for the following year’s plots. gardening season. The Co-op’s Community Garden is located on Route 5 in Norwich, Vermont, next to the To enter the drawing for a 2014 plot, please send two Farmers Market. Garden management is accomplished checks for either $30 (full plot) or $15 (half plot) made by a committee of gardeners. out to “Co-op Food Stores,” along with your contact information, to: Garden Guidelines All gardeners must tend their plots with organic Michele Jordan gardening methods, limiting themselves to natural or Member Services Coordinator organic fertilizers and pest-control methods. Hanover Co-op In the spirit of cooperation, gardeners are considerate in P.O. Box 633 their use of water, a limited resource. Hanover, NH 03755 All gardeners must participate in maintaining the so they are received on or before December 1, 2013. common areas of the garden. Many gardeners prefer a The second check will be held and returned to you after no-till approach to gardening. Those who wish to have your plot has been cleared of all debris at the end of the tilled gardens are responsible for their own rototilling. gardening season. Winners will be notified by phone or e-mail during early December. If there are more requests Two Sizes than plots available, a waiting list will be established. In addition to full plots measuring approximately 20 Checks will be returned to those who do not get a plot. feet by 20 feet, we offer half-plots. This extends the If you have further questions, please call (603) 640- opportunity for new gardeners and allows for gardeners 6323 or email [email protected].

If you are interested in running for the Co-op Board of Directors, please contact Genie Braasch, Board Administrator, by emailing RUN FOR [email protected]. You will be contacted with information about Board service and how to submit your name for consideration by the Nominating Committee. Candidates THE BOARD should be prepared to attend monthly meetings, be willing to Our election is coming in April, learn and work within the Policy Governance model, and have a 2014, and now is the time to think preference for long-term, strategic, and conceptual thinking. about being a candidate. COOPFOODSTORE.COOP/BOARD

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 12 at the co-op

CULINARY LEARNING CENTER UPDATE

Customers frequenting the Lebanon store may have noticed the construction in our Café seating area. In addition to new seating for the Café, we are creating a new teaching facility. Our culinary learning center program will include an exciting combination of hands-on culinary classes, demonstrations and tastings of items in our store, and informative nutritional seminars by our registered dietitian, Mary Choate.

In the case of the hands-on classes, students in groups of twelve will learn everything from knife basics to classic cooking techniques over the course of one to two hours. Our Co-op chefs, along with other invited dynamic instructors, will share many insights into “tricks that the pros use.” The kitchen is designed with residential equipment and application in mind so that participants can take what they learn on-site and use it in their own kitchen space. Live video will be viewable to customers via a monitor above the prepared foods island.

Depending on the content of the class, students will have the opportunity to cook with a partner on an “induction” burner at their table. These units were chosen because they mirror the amount of BTUs provided on a typical range at home, but they are safer in that there is no open flame. The pans are heated through an electromagnetic process, and there is less heat loss in the transfer than a conventional electric burner.

LED lights on dimmers have been chosen with energy efficiency and bulb durability in mind. Ceramic dishes and glasses will be utilized as opposed to disposables, our goal being to create a “green” space and coming as close as possible to a zero waste footprint. Some of the demonstrations and lectures will be free to any shopper, and hands-on learning other classes will be offered at a range of prices, available to Our culinary learning center will include hands- Co-op members at a discount. on culinary classes, demonstrations and tastings of items in our store, and informative nutritional We are very enthusiastic about the new project, and look seminars by our registered dietitian. forward to opening by December of this year!

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 13 sustainability report BATTLE OF THE BAG: PAPER OR PLASTIC?

FACED WITH THE OPTION OF PAPER VS. PLASTIC, HOW DO CONSUMERS MAKE THE BEST ENVIRONMENTAL CHOICE?

by Amanda Charland Sustainability Coordinator

The standoff at the end of the checkout line, between paper and plastic, has endured for decades. To make our green choices even more complicated, there’s a new sheriff in town: the reusable bag. Faced with all of these options, how do you make the right choice? While we all know that plastic is not an environmentally friendly choice, are paper or reusable bags really better?

The difficulty with the plastic versus paper debate is that it is overwhelmingly complex. There are so many things to consider, from manufacturing, to reuse, to disposal. Even small actions, like how many times you reuse a bag, can make a big difference in its overall environmental footprint. Impact is also somewhat subjective; part of it really depends on which environmental issues you care most about. For instance, while plastic bags can have a lower carbon footprint than paper bags, they can be much more destructive to wildlife. did you know? The process to make a paper bag is actually Traditionally, we have framed the plastic versus paper quite arduous and has a fairly large conversation toward the end of a bag’s useful life. Within this environmental impact. Each year Americans use context, paper bags have had a better record of recyclability about ten billion paper bags, causing millions and degradation in the environment. This may be why the of trees to be cut down. Every year the world paper bag earned its more eco-friendly reputation. But this loses a portion of forest larger than Vermont status isn’t necessarily justified. and New Hampshire combined.

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 14 Co-op end 7: because of the hanover consumer cooperative society, There will be a thriving business organization that protects and restores the environment.

Manufacturing Paper Bags Plastic bags are made from petroleum products, The process to make a paper bag is actually quite specifically oil. Though oil is infamous for being an arduous and has a fairly large environmental impact. environmental villain, it’s not the only part of the Paper bags start out as trees. Each year Americans use process to consider. Plastic bags begin as a resin pellet, about ten billion paper bags, causing millions of trees produced by a refinery. The pellet is heated, stretched, to be cut down. Once a plot of land has been identified and cut to make bags. The most energy intensive part and trees have been marked, the deforestation begins. of this process is actually the electricity needed to heat Depending on the logging process, this can have major the plastic. Depending on where the manufacturing environmental impacts. Deforestation contributes to plant is located, this electricity is likely coming from things like habitat destruction, poor water quality, and burning coal. While plastic manufacturing requires less climate change. Every year the world loses a portion energy and almost half the water of paper bags, it also of forest larger than Vermont and New Hampshire introduces harmful chemicals into our atmosphere and combined. Considering that thirty percent of the world’s water systems. land area is forest, and it takes decades for forests to reestablish, any loss of forests is enough to raise So, Which is Better? concern. While plastic can often have a lower carbon footprint in the manufacturing stage because it’s lightweight and less After the trees have been harvested, they are dried, resource-intensive to create, the playing field becomes chipped, and made into pulp. Each pound of pulp much more level (and complicated) when the bags leave requires about three pounds of wood chips. Throughout the grocery store and enter your home. This part is where this process a large amount of fossil fuels and chemicals a lot is left to you and how you decide to reuse and are used, in addition to an extraordinary amount of dispose of your bags. water. While some bags are made from recycled paper, the majority of bags have some amount of virgin paper. The first way to change the impact of your bag is to In addition, recycled paper also requires resources to reuse it. The more you reuse a bag, the smaller its sort, transport, and remake into pulp. footprint becomes.

The environmental impact for transporting paper Once you are done with your bag, the next choice is sizeable. Paper bags are much bulkier and weigh you make is also important: recycling, composting, or significantly more than plastic bags, making paper trashing the bag. One of the best options for disposal— bags much more inefficient to transport. In fact, the which sets the paper bag far ahead of plastic—is Environmental Literacy Council states that it takes composting. Plastic bags are not compostable. In fact, approximately seven trucks to ship an equivalent number the plastic bag is notorious for escaping landfills and of paper bags for every one truck of plastic bags. floating into the wilderness where it can last for centuries without breaking down. Manufacturing Plastic Bags You may have been surprised by the environmental The best option for plastic after the end of its useful life impacts of paper bags, but you probably won’t be as is recycling. However, plastic also loses out to paper for surprised by that of plastic bags. That’s partly because recyclability. Most plastic is actually “down-cycled.” it has been relatively easy to highlight the negative Because it is made from strands, and those strands characteristics of the plastic bag through media. When continue to get smaller and smaller as they are broken you see a dirty plastic bag on the ground in a breath- and remade, plastic often has to be recycled into lesser taking forest scene, it’s easy to draw the conclusion that this bag doesn’t belong in the environment. please see PAPER OR PLASTIC on page 16

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 15 PAPER OR PLASTIC Continued from page 15 quality products. Also, once you recycle your plastic without negative effect. A lifecycle study published bag, a lot can happen to it. It could be remade into by the Environment Agency of the UK found that something, it could go to the landfill, or, in some you need to reuse cotton bags 173 times before the cases, it could be sent overseas and incinerated. All carbon footprint is better than a plastic bag that was of these options change the overall environmental reused once. consequences of your bag. This number isn’t surprising if you consider what it The very last option is throwing your bag away. No takes to make a cotton canvas bag. A big part of the matter what type of bag you have, when it goes into problem comes from the production of cotton. a landfill the conditions are ideal for preservation, and the bag will sit there for decades, centuries, or According to the World Wildlife Fund, cotton crops even millennia without decomposing. make up 2.4 percent of the world’s agricultural land but account for 24 percent of all insecticides Compostable Bags purchased. Cotton can also be a water guzzler. While paper and plastic make up the vast majority Producing enough cotton to make a t-shirt can take of bags at the checkout line, compostable bags are over 5,000 gallons of water. These statistics refer starting to creep into the mix. to conventional and genetically engineered cotton; choosing organic cotton can significantly improve This article won’t focus much time on bioplastics the insecticide numbers. (for a more in-depth article on compostable bags visit http://www.coopfoodstore.coop/news/ While 173 uses may seem like a lot, you’ll easily it-aint-easy-being-green-washed). However, it’s exceed that number in a year if, in addition to important to note that most bioplastic bags are shopping, you use your reusable bags for activities made from conventional corn. This corn is often like carrying your lunch to work or bringing your genetically modified and requires huge amounts of clothes to the beach. petrochemical fertilizers and pesticides. Combined with the fact that most of these bags aren’t truly The Impact is in the Bag compostable, nor can they be recycled, compostable While the winner of the battle of the bags is still bags can be one of the worst choices. the reusable bag, it’s important to remember that all bags raise concerns. In this article we haven’t even Reusable Bags scratched the surface regarding their effects on local Another option is the colorfully branded reusable water supplies, worker conditions, wildlife, and so bags made of cotton, recycled plastic, or a on. With so many variables at play, it’s difficult to combination of materials. The popularity of reusable draw a definitive conclusion. bags seems to have reached all corners of the shopping industry, from grocery stores to large box In reality, if you’re looking to lessen the stores. environmental impact of your shopping trip, you need to look beyond the distraction of the bag Reusable bags come at us from all directions: they debate. The bag comprises less than five percent of are sold at the checkout line, they are given to us as your total grocery visit footprint. What you put into gifts, and they are handed out for free as marketing that bag has a considerably greater impact on the items. Many of us are becoming collectors of environment. reusable bags. Though your shopping bag is a highly controllable While reusable bags can be your greenest option, piece of the puzzle, it is really just a small piece. it’s important to recognize that these bags are not

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 16 news & notes

CELEBRATE OCTOBER CO-OP STYLE

The Cooperative and Fair Trade movements have much in common: shared values and ethics, principled goals, and a commitment to social and economic justice. Fitting, then, that the world- changing collaboration of Cooperation and Fair Trade are both celebrated at the same time in October. This time of year is a good time to remember exactly what they are all about.

WHAT IS A COOPERATIVE? A co-op is an organization owned by, and operated for, the benefit of those who use its services. A cooperative’s noble intent, which separates it from more corporate enterprises, may be best summarized by the words of legendary co-op activist Tom Webb: “Co-ops exist to meet human need. Corporations exist to meet human greed.”

Members of a cooperative support the organization with their patronage, participate in decision-making, and Above, the new “SPP” symbol, adopted by our share in the profits generated by the co-op’s activities. friends at Equal Exchange—pioneers of the Fair Cooperatives are based on the values of self-help, Trade movement. SPP only certifies small farmers, self-responsibility, democracy, equality, equity, and which advocates believe keeps the Fair Trade solidarity. In the tradition of their founders, cooperative movement true to its original small farmer focus. members believe in the ethical values of honesty, openness, social responsibility, and caring for others.

WHAT IS FAIR TRADE? between and providing a living wage for the farmer. Fair Trade started decades ago with individual When you pay an obscenely low price for bananas, do companies called Alternative Trade Organizations you think a Third World farmer and his family earned (ATOs), who made a commitment to work directly a living wage to grow them for you? The answer, with indigenous peoples and to market their products of course, is no. But the Fair Trade movement has directly to consumers. Today, the grassroots movement been working for years to change the injustice of that is a worldwide phenomenon, and co-ops are dedicated dynamic. supporters of Fair Trade organizations and farmers. In developing countries, many food producers labor for long hours on small plots of land far removed from the LEARN MORE markets in which they can sell their wares—especially How can you honor Co-op and Fair Trade Month? if those markets are in the West. The Fair Trade Learn more about the two movements and the movement shortens the path from farm to table, thus principles for which they stand! Look in our stores and reducing the number of high-priced middlemen in- on our website (coopfoodstore.coop) this October.

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 17 book review GOOD BOOKS FOR COOKS KNEADLESSLY SIMPLE: FABULOUS, FUSS-FREE, NO-KNEAD BREADS

by Nancy Baggett, photography by Alexandra Grablewski John Wiley and Sons, $19.99

by Martha Esersky Lorden

The standards for quality bread in the Upper Valley are high. All the finest ingredients for making your own bread are available at the Co-op, as is baking expert Nancy Baggett’s cookbook on ways to make high-quality artisan-style breads at home.

As the days grow cooler and we transition to autumn, it’s time to crank up the oven. Soups and stews appear more frequently on our menus, and we shop for hearty accompaniments to round out these steaming bowls of comfort. A hunk of crusty bread is ideal for mopping up the very last and best bits of a dish, and now home bakers can easily create these satisfying artisan-style breads in their own kitchens with Nancy Baggett’s Kneadlessly Simple bread book.

What makes the yeasted bread recipes in Kneadlessly Simple such a cinch is Baggett’s “micro-kneading” method. This set-it-and-forget-it approach mixes in just minutes, uses a single bowl and spoon, and self-kneads into a perfect sponge while busy folks are away from home. She unchains bakers from the Nothing is more irresistible than the aroma of complicated process required to coax the development fresh-baked bread, and Nancy Baggett shows of gluten, that essential protein whose molecular you how to bring a simple, satisfying, and quality strands, aligned through the kneading process, create loaf of bread out of your own oven. an airy crumb and crusty surface.

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 18 “If you can stir, measure, and read, you can make these breads!” promises Baggett. No special equipment is required, there is no RECIPES sticky countertop cleanup, and those workout sessions of ten-minute kneading every couple From Kneadlessly Simple: Fabulous, Fuss-free, of hours are eliminated with her one-pot No-Knead Breads, by Nancy Baggett method. The flavor of this hearty, home-style multigrain bread is Baggett lets time and rapid-rise yeast do the reminiscent of nice “bran-y” bran muffins. It’s great for work. After an optional three-hour refrigerator toasting, making sandwiches, or eating as is. The following rest to develop the dough’s flavor, there are recipe makes one large loaf with about 14 slices. two rises (a long twelve to eighteen hours rise followed by a short one to two hours Multigrain Molasses Bread second rise) which ensure proper lift in the dough, bringing lightness and chewiness 1½ cups whole-wheat flour, plus more as needed to the bread. The prepared loaves are then 1-1/3 cups unbleached bread flour (see Note) baked at high temperatures in cast iron Dutch 1 cup bran flakes cereal, crushed into fine bits (see Tip) ovens, traditional loaf pans, or muffin tins, or 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon old-fashioned rolled oats, divided on baking sheets, pans, or baking stones. No ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon yellow or white cornmeal, divided fancy food processors, bread machines, or 1½ teaspoons table salt dough hooks required. 1½ teaspoons instant, quick-rising or bread-machine yeast The recipes in Kneadlessly Simple offer a 1½ cups ice water, (see Tip), plus more as needed variety of healthful, multi-grain, and gluten- 1/3 cup mild molasses, (not blackstrap) free options, like crunchy pumpkin, sunflower, 3 tablespoons corn oil, canola oil, or other flavorless and flax seed boule, or a rice flour bread. vegetable oil American favorites like sourdough, raisin, oatmeal, anadama, and crusty white peasant 1. Mix dough: Thoroughly stir 1½ cups whole-wheat flour, bread are featured. World classics include bread flour, bran cereal, 1/3 cup oats, ¼ cup cornmeal, salt, baguettes, ciabatta, and rustic Cyprus-style and yeast in a 4-quart (or larger) bowl. Thoroughly whisk herb and olive bread. Streusels, coffee cakes, ice water, molasses, and oil in a medium bowl. Vigorously panettone, and Mardi Gras king cake are stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, scraping several rich and sweet recipes for which down the sides and mixing just until the dough is thoroughly Baggett provides a section devoted to glazes blended. The dough should be moist and a bit sticky, but and drizzles. There’s also plenty of advice fairly stiff. If the mixture is too dry, stir in just enough regarding the best flours, fats, sweeteners, and additional ice water to facilitate mixing, but don’t over- add-ins, along with information on how to moisten. If the dough is too wet, stir in just enough whole- test for doneness, what to look for in dough wheat flour to stiffen slightly. Lightly coat the top with oil. consistency, and how to store baked breads. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. From savory to sweet yeasted doughs, these breads are simple, but not simplistic. 2. First rise: Let the dough rise at room temperature (about 70°F) for 12 to 18 hours; if convenient, stir once partway Expert baker Baggett’s cookbook conquers the through the rise. For convenience (and improved flavor), you inconveniences and anxieties of making bread may refrigerate the dough for 3 to 12 hours before starting the at home. Her streamlined recipes incorporate first rise. the most modern techniques and make a feast of yeast-based breads inviting to the modern 3. Second rise: Generously coat a 9-by-5-inch (or similar home baker, making the romance of baking large) loaf pan with oil. Vigorously stir the dough to deflate bread at home accessible. Nothing is more it. If it is soft, stir in just enough whole-wheat flour to yield a irresistible than the aroma of fresh-baked firm but moist dough (it should be fairly hard to stir). bread, and Nancy Baggett shows you how to bring a simple, satisfying, and quality loaf of bread out of your own oven. please see NO-KNEAD BREAD on page 20

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 19 The recipes in Kneadlessly Simple offer a variety of healthful, multi-grain, and gluten-free options, like crunchy pumpkin, sunflower, and flax seed boule, or a rice flour bread. American favorites like sourdough, raisin, oatmeal, anadama, and crusty white peasant bread are featured. World classics include baguettes, ciabatta, and rustic Cyprus-style herb and olive bread.

NO-KNEAD BREAD Continued from page 19

Transfer the dough to the pan. Lightly coat the top with 6. Reduce oven temperature to 375°. Bake the loaf oil. Smooth and press the dough evenly into the pan on the lower rack until the top is lightly browned, 60 using a well-oiled rubber spatula or your fingertips. to 70 minutes. Continue baking, covering with foil Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon each oats if necessary to prevent overbrowning, until a skewer and cornmeal and pat down. Using well-oiled kitchen inserted in the center comes out with just a few shears or a serrated knife, cut three or four ½-inch- crumbs on the tip (or until an instant-read thermometer deep, evenly spaced slashes diagonally in the top of the registers 204-206°), 10 to 15 minutes longer. loaf. Cover the pan with plastic wrap. 7. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 to 15 minutes. 4. Let rise at warm room temperature until the dough Turn the loaf out on the rack and let cool to at least nears the plastic, 1½ to 2½ hours. (For an accelerated warm before serving. The loaf is good warm but slices rise, see Tip.) best when cool.

5. Fifteen minutes before baking: Position a rack in please see NO-KNEAD BREAD on page 21 lower third of oven; preheat to 400°F.

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 20 CLAY POT COOKERY by Martha Esersky Lorden of glowing coals. Later, when ancient Mesopotamians, Egyptians, and Romans developed tiered beehive earth As busy home cooks, we often search for shortcuts ovens, the versatile clay cooking vessel lent itself to a to aid in the preparation of meals and to enhance our growing variety of one-pot dishes. pleasure of eating. New-fangled gadgets promising every sort of culinary convenience abound, and when I As one of the oldest cooking traditions, clay pot see them on display in their candy colors and stainless cookery is far from antiquated. Commonly found in steel decor, I find them hard to resist. But well before the modern cuisines of Africa, Europe, Asia, and the the advent of high-tech cooking equipment, (say, Americas, cooking on unglazed clay surfaces and in around 8,000 years ago) one of the most versatile and earthenware pots still remains popular. For example, basic human technologies was successfully feeding the most Ethiopian cooking is done in the clay pot tradition, world—the clay pot. and Moroccan cuisine relies on the shallow-bowled tagine with its conical-shaped lid. China uses shaguo Hand-made earthenware vessels fired at high (sand pots) for one-pot noodle dishes, while in Japan, temperatures facilitated all sorts of possibilities for both the stoneware donabe is the go-to ceramic stewpot. storage and cooking, particularly boiling, stewing, and India’s heavy-bottomed clay kal chatti is used for braising. Once terra cotta (cooked earth) pots were heavily spiced fish dishes, and tandoor clay pots and introduced, cooking technology went beyond roasting ovens roast meats and vegetables. Turkish lamb and food on a stick over a direct flame. With the lidded bean casseroles cook in clay guvecs, and the Spanish clay container, the heat required for cooking could be lidless cazuela pan is employed for both stovetop transferred indirectly to the earthenware pot as it sat on a hot stone surface or was nestled in a pile please see CLAY POT COOKERY on page 22

NO-KNEAD BREAD Continued from page 19 cup of ice cubes to cold water and stir for about 30 Tips & Notes seconds before measuring out the water.

Note: Milled from high-protein wheat, bread flour Turn your microwave into a warm, moist develops strong gluten, resulting in well-risen loaves. environment to help accelerate the second rise of the It helps give breads with a high percentage of whole bread dough. Begin by microwaving ½ cup water in grains better structure and a lighter texture. Find it a 1-cup glass measure just to boiling. Set the water in near other flours on the Co-op’s shelves or in our one corner of the microwave, place the pan of dough bulk bins. on the other side of the turned-off microwave and close the door. The dough will double in size in 45 Tips: The easiest way to crush bran flakes is to put minutes to 1½ hours. them in a small sealable plastic bag, close it tightly, then press down with a rolling pin or the palm of Make ahead: Wrap finished bread airtight and keep at your hand. room temperature for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 2 months. To prepare “ice water” for this recipe, add a heaping

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 21 CLAY POT COOKERY Continued from page 21

and oven-based dishes. In the States since the 1970‘s, While most clay pots are not dishwasher safe, they can the ever-popular German dome-topped Römertopf be boiled clean in the oven should a build-up of pore- clay cooker offers some of the most versatile culinary clogging debris develop over time, but generally clean- possibilities for modern home cooks. up is a soapless light scrub and swish. It’s also easy to convert your favorite low and slow braising or roasting Why do many cooks believe that food just tastes recipes to the clay pot method simply by raising the better when prepared in a clay pot? According to temp 50º and reducing the liquid. Following these basic Paula Wolfert’s cookbook Mediterranean Clay Pot rules for the care and feeding of clay vessels assures that Cooking (2009), the noticeable difference is due to the the next generation in your family will enjoy the dishes organic, “natural taste” acquired when food is roasted and memories preserved in an heirloom of clay. in earthenware. “Pottery has a kind of memory,” she asserts, and repeated use of a well-seasoned clay pot You can take a trip to the culinary past with the clay yields amazing results. pot method. Yes, even Grandma’s old-fashioned bean pot is part of the great clay pot tradition, but you’ll be The numerous advantages of the clay pot technique surprised by just how current the technique is. As world are impressive. In such a porous breathing vessel, the cuisines enter the repertoire of modern cooks, the clay potential for moist, tender, and succulent food increases. pot is making a comeback, along with decorative garlic Inside this miniature brick oven environment, food and onion roasters, chicken bricks, and clay bread cooks efficiently and evenly. Less liquid is required, and pans. Not only does clay pot cooking provide a special because no oil is added, the fat content is reduced; there aesthetic pleasure, but it also offers a versatile, healthy, is no burning. By forming its own juices, a clay pot dish and smart approach to home cooking today. does not require additional steps for preparing gravy or sauces. Flavors and nutrients are kept from escaping Autumn is the time when we transition our style of as steam is recirculated. Because earthenware oven- cooking from the smoke-rich flavors of the grill to roasted dishes are cooked at higher temperatures, they the hearth-centered brick oven of the kitchen. Mother take significantly less time: A three pound chicken that Earth provides a wonderful material in the gift of clay, usually roasts at 350º for an hour cooks in a clay pot at inspiring thousands of years of culinary delights. Sharing 450º in 30 minutes. a steaming entrée at your table in a terra cotta vessel is a warm reminder of her bounty. “The distribution of heat is superior,” says Wolfert, and you can even use it in the microwave. By going directly from oven to table with the piping hot dish, cooks can serve right from the very vessel they cooked in. With CLAY POT RECIPES little tending necessary and an easy clean up, the clay pot approach is, surprisingly, a modern convenience. Rich Vegetable Ragout From The Complete Guide to Claypot Cooking by Like any of our favorite pots and pans, earthenware Bridget Jones (1993) requires some TLC. With a few tips and techniques, Serves 4-6 cooks can enjoy their clay cookers fully. Before using a clay pot, a good 15 to 30 minute soak in water is Enjoy vegetarian comfort food at its best. Seasonal required. Remember to always place your clay pot into vegetables are the star. Look for local leeks, cauliflower, a cold oven—never pre-heat. Likewise, when removing potatoes, parsnips, and cider on the Co-op shelves when from the oven, do not place the pot directly on a cold preparing this earthy clay pot stew. counter (a trivet or a towel works well here), in cold water, or into the refrigerator. The principal behind this Lump of butter slow temperature transition is that rapid changes in 4 leeks, sliced temperature can cause the vessel to crack. 2 celery stalks, sliced

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 22 2 large potatoes, cut in large dice 2 tablespoons sugar 2 carrots, halved and sliced Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 parsnips, halved and sliced 1/2 cup raisins ½ cauliflower, broken into florets 2 tablespoons honey 1 can (14-ounce) check peas, drained 2 tablespoons tomato paste Use a 3-quart glazed or unglazed earthenware or 1 cup dry cider flameware saucepan or casserole with a tight fitting lid 1 tablespoon sugar and a 10- to 12-inch tagine (heat diffuser as needed) or Salt and pepper Spanish cazuela. 1 bay leaf 1 cup grated cheese Separate the chicken legs at the joint into thighs and 4 tablespoons fresh bread crumbs drumsticks. Trim off any excess fat. Let come to room 2 tablespoons sesame seeds temperature. Meanwhile, soak the saffron in ½ cup warm water for 15 minutes. Melt the butter in a large saucepan. Add the leeks and celery, and cook for 5 minutes, until the leeks Place the onions, 1 tablespoon of the butter, the saffron are softened and reduced in volume. Turn the leek and soaking water, cinnamon, ginger, sugar, and 1 mixture into the soaked clay pot. Add all the remaining teaspoon each salt and pepper in the 3-quart pan. Cover vegetables and the chick peas. Mix the ingredients and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, together well. Stir the tomato paste, cider, and sugar for 45 minutes. (If the onions begin to brown too together, then add a generous sprinkling of seasoning, quickly, reduce the heat to low.) and pour the mixture over the vegetables. Tuck the bay leaf into the ingredients. Remove the cover. Add the raisins, raise the heat to medium, and continue cooking, uncovered, until the Cover the pot and place in the cold oven. Set the onions are soft and glazed and the sauce is thickened oven at 425º. Cook for 1 hour. Stir well and taste for and reduced to 2 cups, about 45 minutes longer. seasoning. Mix together the cheese, bread crumbs, and sesame seeds. Sprinkle this topping over the ragout and Put 1 tablespoon of the butter in the tagine. Add the cook, uncovered, for a further 15 minutes, or until the chicken and set over medium-low heat. Cook slowly topping is golden and the vegetables are tender. until the butter sizzles and the chicken skin begins to release some fat. Raise the heat to medium and continue to brown the chicken, moving it around in the Moroccan Chicken Tagine with Sweet Onions and tagine to keep it from sticking, but always keeping it Raisins on the skin side, for 30 minutes. From time to time, tilt From Paula Wolfert’s Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking the tagine and spoon off excess fat. Note that you will (2009) have to adjust the heat to keep the chicken browning Serves: 4 to 6 slowly and consistently. Use a wooden or silicone spatula to scrape up bits and pieces that attach to the In this stove-top recipe, Wolfert browns the chicken bottom of the tagine. legs and aromatics in the clay pot before allowing the dish to braise. She serves the entrée in the reduced Preheat the oven to 450°F. Reduce the heat under the buttery onion pan sauces and recommends organic tagine to medium-low, turn the chicken pieces over, chicken, like the Co-op’s Smart Chicken brand, for full and cook for 15 minutes longer. Turn over again and flavor. brush the skin side of the chicken with the honey.

3 pounds large whole chicken legs, preferably organic Transfer the tagine to the oven and bake, uncovered, 2 pounds large onions, quartered lengthwise and thinly until the chicken is glazed, about 10 minutes. sliced 3 tablespoons unsalted butter Spread the onion sauce over the chicken, dot with the Pinch of saffron threads remaining butter, and bake until the onions turn golden 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon brown, about 5 minutes. 1 teaspoon ground ginger

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 23 book review CHEESEMONGER: A LIFE ON THE WEDGE

by Gordon Edgar, Chelsea Green Publishing, $17.95

by Mary Saucier Choate M.S., R.D., L.D. Co-op Food and Nutrition Educator

Gordon Edgar is a wonderful writer with an interesting personal journey into the world of cheese. His life experiences make this unlikely literary genre—the “cheese memoir”—a fascinating one.

Edgar’s punk rock/social justice/anti-establishment beginnings led him to San Francisco’s worker-owned Rainbow Food Co-operative, where he was hired to work in the cheese shop. He went on to earn his cheesemonger credentials the hard way—buying, cutting, wrapping, tasting, and selling cheese at the co- op and becoming an expert along the way.

He didn’t start out as a lover of fancy cheeses; he was your average eater of Velveeta and American processed cheese slices. The occasional smoked Gouda was an exotic walk on the wild side for young Edgar. He nailed the interview in the Rainbow Co-op’s cheese department by repeating what he had read on the label of a new cheese he had bought the previous day. Responding to a question about his personal favorite cheese, he said “anything raw and rennetless.” Gordon Edgar didn’t start out as a lover of fancy cheeses; he was your average eater of Velveeta and A fun story with a happy ending: Rainbow hired a American processed cheese slices. He nailed the worker who eventually “got” cheese and turned the interview in the Rainbow Co-op’s cheese department department into a “must visit” for cheese lovers in San by repeating what he had read on the label of a new Francisco. Edgar became a devoted cheese enthusiast cheese he had bought the previous day.

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 24 “With fifteen chapters and a cheese buying guide appendix, I expect to be sampling new cheeses for many months.” —mary saucier choate, Co-op Dietitian

and, for lucky shoppers at Rainbow, one who tried to morsel of Taleggio and wow! Both brought out the best match the cheese to the person, starting with milder in each other, the strong cheese brightening the mild choices for beginners, but ready to offer something ripe squash and the squash mellowing the cheese. and as he says, “stinky,” for the experienced palette. The next month and chapter brought three-year aged My personal cheese epiphany was two-fold. A few vintage Gouda and maple smoked Gouda. Another years ago, as I bit into a cold mozzarella cheese stick, unexpected taste and texture sensation! The aged gouda I noted that it tasted exactly like what I imagine a was a deep gold, very solid even at room temperature, candlestick must taste like. I was violating my personal and had a grainy texture and a nutty caramel and salty and professional rule of eating: I don’t eat anything that taste. It would be great to take hiking with some sturdy doesn’t taste good. bread, or if served as a quick snack with a sliced apple, it would be a gourmet treat. As for the maple smoked My second eye-opener came when I tasted a pesto I Gouda, while I usually like smoked cheeses, the had made with basil from my garden and shaker cheese smokiness of this one was too strong for me. from the green can. The only note I could taste was the cellulose added to the grated cheese to keep it from In some chapters, Edgar discusses brands that are clumping—another item scratched off my shopping list. local to San Francisco or that are from small, limited distribution producers in Europe, but he always I would experiment with choices from our Co-op’s describes them well enough so that our own Co-op specialty cheese case now and then, but becoming cheesemongers can help to find a similar cheese. For cheese-literate felt really overwhelming. example, in Chapter Three, he discusses goat’s and sheep’s milk brands of cheese that we don’t carry. Ken Edgar’s book provided a perfect roadmap for me to at the Hanover Co-op Cheese Shop recommended follow. At the end of each chapter, he goes into the an aged goat cheese and a goat feta that were superb cheeses in more depth and gives suggestions including alternatives. I had never had any kind of goat cheese preparation methods, location of farm, and cheese except for the fresh, soft, spreadable logs, which I styles. These little bits are perfect bite-sized nibbles to really enjoy. It was quite a revelation to try the other help a cheese neophyte like myself learn to appreciate forms. The aged cheese was buttery with a little bit of cheeses in an organized and memorable way. salty crunch and a very mild goat cheese tang. The goat feta was awe-inspiring. “Where have you been all my The first two cheeses he mentions at the end of Chapter life?” I thought as I ate it. One—Taleggio and Swiss Gruyère—were my first purchases. I served them to myself and my husband With fifteen chapters and a cheese buying appendix at room temperature with a crusty loaf, red wine, as my guide, I expect to be sampling new cheeses for heirloom tomatoes, and cucumber slices from my many months. Lucky for Co-op customers, we have neighbor’s garden. What a fun taste explosion. The knowledgeable cheese staff who are passionate about Gruyère: buttery, a bit dry and crumbly, and mellow— cheese and ready to assist you on your own cheese just gorgeous. The Taleggio, while not the raw version journey. noted in the chapter, was piquant, peppery, and still somehow mellower than the brie I was expecting it I asked Terri and Ken in the Hanover Co-op Cheese would taste like. But the real revelation on the Taleggio Shop and Travis and John in the Lebanon Co-op Cheese came a few nights later when we had it with steamed Shop for some of their recommendations. To read their baby patty pan squash. A slice of warm patty pan with a answers, see our blog, www.coopfoodstore.com/blog.

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 25 people helping people

PARTNERS

OCTOBER CO-OP COMMUNITY October Community Partner of the Month. The HCCF PARTNER: THE HANOVER COOPERATIVE is supported by your donations at the registers each October, and additional funds are donated throughout COMMUNITY FUND the year by staff, members, and area businesses who participate in our fundraising events. In 2001, the Co-op Board of Directors launched a program that has benefitted people and organizations How you can help: throughout the Upper Valley ever since. That nonprofit charitable foundation—separate from the Co-op • Make a cash contribution at the registers itself—makes annual donations to local nonprofits when you shop at the Co-op Food Stores, that contribute to the quality of life of Upper Valley Community Market, or Service Center during residents. October.

Today, the Hanover Cooperative Community Fund • Learn more about HCCF and how you can get (HCCF) has an endowment of more than $300,000 involved at coopfoodstore.coop/community. earmarked for helping Upper Valley nonprofits. And because October is National Co-op Month, one of the Want to Apply? ways we celebrate is to make the HCCF our annual Qualifying organizations are welcome to apply for the

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 26 HCCF. Funds can only be disbursed to groups which DECEMBER CO-OP COMMUNITY are tax-exempt 501(c)(3) organizations or which meet PARTNER: GOOD NEIGHBOR HEALTH eligible social welfare objectives. To uphold the fund’s tax status, funds cannot be provided to groups engaged CLINIC AND RED LOGAN DENTAL CLINIC in political, lobbying, or ineligible activities. Learn more at coopfoodstore.coop/community. As anyone following the news no doubt knows, one of the primary issues surrounding healthcare is simply NOVEMBER CO-OP COMMUNITY how to afford it. Care is expensive, insurance is too, and the working poor in particular often have nowhere PARTNER: TWIN PINES HOUSING TRUST to turn.

Affordable housing is hard to come by in the best of But in downtown White River Junction, Vermont, an circumstances, and what’s affordable today may not organization is there to help. be tomorrow. In our area, the stress is compounded by winter heating bills, leaving struggling families to Founded in 1992, The Good Neighbor Health Clinic struggle even more just to find an affordable place to is a free healthcare facility whose mission is to offer live. accessible primary medical care to the uninsured or Fortunately there is a place to turn. underinsured in the Upper Valley who are in need, but without the means to pay. Twin Pines Housing Trust is a not-for-profit housing developer located in the Upper Valley of Vermont and In August 1996, the Red Logan Dental Clinic opened, New Hampshire, dedicated to creating perpetually as well, in response to the increasing need for dental affordable housing. According to Twin Pines, housing care. is considered affordable when the cost of rent or mortgage, insurance, and taxes is less than 30 percent Both clinics are located in White River Junction, with a of a family’s gross income. That means a renter or satellite medical clinic in Canaan, New Hampshire. homeowner must earn a salary of nearly three times the minimum wage in order to live in the most basic of Together, the organizations provide a wide range of Upper Valley housing. much-needed primary care services, management of chronic disease, and preventative health care. Twin Pines works to increase the number of safe, attractive, and efficient homes and apartments available The clinics are staffed by volunteer physicians, dentists, to income-qualified residents. With central offices nurses, allied health personnel, medical students, and located in White River Junction, Vermont, Twin Pines administrative staff. helps meet area needs by building and renovating affordable multi-family apartments, single-family Since the clinics were formed more than 20 years ago, homes, and mobile home parks. they have also assisted clients with housing issues, job placement, and clothing and transportation needs. In How you can help: addition, they serve as a referral agency to neighboring food pantries. • Make a contribution when you shop at the Co- op during November. How you can help: • Volunteer your skills on small maintenance, • Make a contribution when you shop at the gardening, or light office projects by calling Co-op during December. the Twin Pines office at (802) 291-7000 or visiting the website at http://www.tphtrust.org/. • Call to learn about the wide variety of volunteer opportunities. Good Neighbor • Donate items that improve the living Health Clinic: (802) 295-1868; Red Logan environment of Twin Pines’ residents, such Dental Health Clinic: (802) 295-7573. as art supplies, children’s books, new plastic playground equipment, or outdoor storage sheds. Contact the office number above.

co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 27 co-op news | oct nov dec 2013 | page 28