Civiltàdellatavola Accademia Italiana Della Cucina

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Civiltàdellatavola Accademia Italiana Della Cucina CdT_254_COVER_Acca 07/11/1314:11Pagina1 CIVILTÀ DELLA TAVOLA N. 254 G NOVEMBRE 2013 C ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA ACCADEMIA CUCINA ITALIANA IVILTÀ ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA ACCADEMIA CUCINA ITALIANA ISTITUZIONE CULTURALE DELLA ISTITUZIONE REPUBBLICA CULTURALE ITALIANA www.accademia1953.it FONDATA NEL FONDATA 1953 DA ORIO VERGANI DELLA T AVOLA N. 254, NOVEMBRE 2013/ MENSILE, POSTE ITALIANE SPA, SPED. ABB. POST. - D.L. 353/2003 (CONV. IN L. 27/02/2004 N° 46) ART. 1 COMMA 1 - DCB ROMA ISSN 1974-2681 SOMMARIO CARI ACCADEMICI... 37 l’alimentazione in età infantile 3 Viva la “cucina-cucinata” (Alberto Marsciani) (Giovanni Ballarini) 39 Panzerotti dal cielo FOCUS (Andrea Cesari de Maria) L’ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA 5 escono le nuove guide, è stata fondata nel 1953 da orio Vergani 41 li pupi di zuccaro ma il sogno è svanito e da luigi Bertett, dino Buzzati traVerso, (Giuseppe Cangemi) Cesare Chiodi, giannino Citterio, ernesto donà (Paolo Petroni) dalle rose, MiChele guido franCi, gianni MazzoCChi Bastoni, arnoldo Mondadori, attilio naVa, 42 hedypàtheia o gastronomia arturo orVieto, seVerino Pagani, aldo Passante, CULTURA & RICERCA gian luigi Ponti, giò Ponti, dino Villani, (Gianni Staccotti) edoardo VisConti di Modrone, 6 guardare la cucina Con MassiMo alBerini e VinCenzo Buonassisi. 44 la crescente bolognese con due occhi per una (Tito Trombacco) nuova prospettiva 29 uno strano idillio I NOSTRI CONVEGNI (Giovanni Ballarini) ottocentesco 7 il sommelier (Claudio Novelli) 19 Cucina come scienza e la cucina contemporanea e come Cultura (Andrea Grignaffini) 31 i funghi tra passato e futuro (Stefano Maggi) 20 Broéti e boreti 8 acque per gourmet (Alessandro Culot) (Gian Paolo Pinton) 33 leccornie di un italiano a londra 22 Mezzo secolo a Borgotaro 10 le carni povere dimenticate (Silvia Mazzola) (Pier Giovanni Bracchi) (Aldo Focacci) 35 l’importanza della carota 24 il successo 12 salute e delizia nella nutrizione del Verdicchio d’oro con gli agrumi (Publio Viola) (Mauro Magagnini) (Fabio Barucco) 14 dies Veneris SICUREZZA & QUALITÀ (Roberto Dottarelli) 45 una specie rara 16 etna Patrimonio (Gabriele Gasparro) dell’umanità (Francesco Cancelliere) LE RUBRICHE 17 frittate e omelette 11 Calendario accademico (Amedeo Santarelli) 13 le ricette d’autore 26 la dieta mediterranea 38 accademici in primo piano non finisce di stupire 46 in libreria (Aldo E. Tàmmaro) 47 dalle delegazioni In copertina: particolare di “Natura morta con frutta, noci e formaggio” 55 Vita dell’accademia 27 il mosto cotto in cucina Floris Claesz van Dijck(1613) 67 Carnet degli accademici (Ruggero Larco) Museo Frans Hals, Haarlem, Olanda 70 international summary In copertina appare un Codice QR o QR Code, cioè uno di quei codici a barre con la forma quadrata che possono essere letti tramite le fotocamere dei cellulari e degli smartphone Android e iPhone. Quando trovate un QR Code potrete usare un’applicazione del vostro iPhone o smartphone con la fotocamera per deco- dificarlo e vedere cosa nasconde. Per leggere i codici QR è necessaria anche un’applicazione per la scansione, da installare sullo smartphone Android o su iPhone, che permette, puntando la fotocamera sul codice, di estrarre e decodificare le informazioni. Su Android potrete utilizzare, per esempio, la app BarCo- de Scanner, mentre su iPhone e iPad potrete scegliere I-Nigma oppure QR Reader. Basta far leggere a tablet o smartphone il codice QR in copertina, e imme- diatamente il dispositivo si collega al sito dell’Accademia. Dai prossimi numeri della rivista poi, con i QR Code che verranno pubblicati, potrete accedere a nuovi e interessanti contenuti interattivi del sito dell’Accademia. PAGINA 1 I DELEGATI IN ITALIA KNORDL VALLE D’AOSTA luigi alessandro (aosta) G Jean-Claude Mochet (Monterosa) PIEMONTE tino Cornaglia (alba langhe) G luigi Carlo Michele Bussolino (alessandria) G Piero Bava (asti) G Carlo greppi (Biella) G franco gerardi (Ciriè) G ermanno Mauro (Cuneo-saluzzo) G giampiero garelli (ivrea) G Mario tuccillo (novara) G alberto negro (Pinerolo) G Mauro felice frascisco (torino) G Paoletta Picco (to rino lingotto) G Pier Carlo lincio (Verbano-Cusio-ossola) G Marco Ciocca (Vercelli) LIGURIA roberto Pirino (albenga e del Ponente ligure) G Marinella Curre Caporuscio (la spezia) G Paola Massa Piergiovanni (genova) G guglielmo Valobra (genova est) G giuseppe ghiglione (riviera dei fiori) G aldo saroldi (savona) G giorgio Cirilli (tigullio) LOMBARDIA Mario Beschi (alto Mantovano e garda Bresciano) G franco ro ssi (alto Milanese) G lucio Piombi (Bergamo) G giuseppe Masserdotti (Brescia) G sergio fiori (Crema) G Marco Petecchi (Cremona) G enzo Pomentale (lariana) G Claudio Bolla (lecco) G federico Maisano (lodi) G omero araldi (Mantova) G dino Betti van der noot (Milano) G nicola rivani farolfi (Milano Brera) G andrea Cesari de Maria (Milano duomo) G giovanni Battista spezia (Milano navigli) G doda fontana gulfi (Monza e Brianza) G danilo fraticelli (Pavia) G giovanni Bovis (sabbioneta-terre destra oglio) G giancarlo gugiatti (sondrio) G Mario nobili (Vallecamonica) G Claudio Borroni (Varese) G giovanni Canelli (Vigevano e della lomellina) G umberto guarnaschelli (Voghera-oltrepò Pavese) TRENTINO - ALTO ADIGE giancarlo Massari (Bolzano) G Piergiorgio Baruchello (Bressanone) G ferdinand tessadri (Merano) G francesco Pompeati (trento) VENETO renzo rizzi (alto Vicentino) G franco Maria zambotto (Belluno-feltre-Cadore) G luigino grasselli (Cortina d’ampezzo) G Pietro fracanzani (eugania-Basso Padovano) G umberto Parodi (legnago-Basso Veronese e Polesine ovest) G Cesare Bisantis (Padova) G andrea riello (riviera Veronese del garda) G giorgio golfetti (rovigo-adria-Chioggia) G teresa Perissinotto (treviso) G nazzareno acquistucci (treviso-alta Marc a) G rosa Maria lo torto rossomando (Venezia) G ettore Bonalberti (Venezia Mestre) G fabrizio farinati (Verona) G giovanni Manfredini (Vicenza) FRIULI - VENEZIA GIULIA alessandro Culot (gorizia) G euro Ponte (Muggia-Capodistria) G stefano zanolin (Pordenone) G giuliano relja (trieste) G renzo Mattioni (udine) EMILIA ROMAGNA guido Mascioli (Bologna) G anna Maria Bonaga (Bologna dei Bentivoglio) G Maurizio Campiverdi (Bologna-san luca) G giovanni spartà (Borgo Val di taro) G Pier Paolo Veroni (Carpi-Correggio) G franco Morsiani (Castel s.Pietro-firenzuola) G salvatore alberghini (Cento-Città del guercino) G Bruno Pollini (Cervia-Milano Marittima) G norberto fantini (Cesena) G riccardo Vicentini (faenza) G luca Padovani (ferrara) G edgardo zagnoli (forlì) G antonio gaddoni (imola) G Pier angelo raffini (lugo di romagna) G roberto olivi Mocenigo (Modena) G gioacchino giovanni iapichino (Parma) G giulio dall’olio (Parma-Bassa Parmense) G giorgio oppici (Parma terre alte) G giovanni Marchesi (Piacenza) G orio Pelliconi (ravenna) G fabrizio sevardi (reggio emilia) G Massimo Mancini (riccione-Cattolica) G roberto Valducci (rimini) G roberto tanzi (salsomaggiore terme) Nel prossimo numero i Delegati del Centro e del Sud-Isole. PAGINA 2 CARI ACCADEMICI... Viva la “cucina-cucinata” La cucina-cucinata secondo la tradizione è la migliore risposta alla crisi della cucina del tempo presente. DI GIOVANNI BALLARINI Presidente dell’Accademia la “cucina-cucinata”. avete inteso bene: nazione di “specialità della casa” o il in cucina bisogna cucinare! patrocinio di un famoso chef (quasi la rivoluzione è di tornare a cucinare sempre assente, perché continuamente e non limitarsi ad assemblaggi e a pur impegnato in televisione, convegni, eleganti presentazioni di cibi o parti riunioni ecc.). alimentari precostruite e preconfezio- senza altri dettagli, si deve aggiun- nate dall’industria, dall’artigianato o gere che una situazione analoga a anche (udite, udite!) nel ristorante quella del caffè della “cuccuma” e non stesso o in altri locali aperti al pub- espresso, è facilitata dalle moderne blico e variamente denominati. attrezzature e tecniche di cucina (ab- Come segno di questa rivoluzione, battitori, congelatori-surgelatori, sot- grandi chef francesi come gérald Pas- tovuoto e tecnologie combinate) che sédat, alain ducasse, thierry Marx e permettono di preparare in anticipo alain dutournier, a Parigi, hanno pro- parti o componenti di piatti, o i piatti posto che la denominazione di Risto- stessi. rante di Qualità sia riservata soltanto da non sottovalutare ch e - elemento ai locali dove ogni piatto è preparato e di non poco conto - la preparazione cucinato al momento, espressamente preventiva degli alimenti permette di ari accademici, molti segnali per il cliente. utilizzare meglio il lavoro di cucina e indicano che la cucina bor- due rapide considerazioni. risparmiare manodopera, una delle C ghese moderna è in forte la prima è che, già alla fine del 1800, voci più significative della ristora- crisi, se non è morta, come sempre più giuseppe Verdi afferma che il pro- zione. a quest’ultimo proposito, il sin- frequentemente si proclama. una crisi gresso sta anche in un intelligente ri- dacato francese synhorcat stima che, che deriva dalla disgregazione della torno al passato. se tutti i ristoranti preparassero cibi famiglia borghese e della ristorazione la seconda è che, alla fine del 1700, il espressi, vi sarebbero 27.000 nuovi pubblica, con i sempre più rari risto- caffè si preparava al mattino nella posti di lavoro. non è però indicato ranti, sostituiti da altri indefiniti e in- “cuccuma” e serviva per tutta la gior- quale sarebbe il co sto finale del pasto definibili luoghi del mangiare e l’inva- nata e oltre. in italia, però, si iniziò a in questi ristoranti. sione, che appare inarrestabile,
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